B08_Attachment_3_Standard_Specifications_for_Fence_Installation.pdf

A Landowner’s Guide to Fences and Wildlife

Acknowledgements

Acknowledgements Many resource and wildlife specialists, ranchers and landowners generously offered their insights and experience for this guide. Much of the content is based on A Landowner’s Guide to Wildlife Friendly Fences, written for Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks in 2008, and used with permission. Since then, the idea of “fencing with wildlife in mind” has taken off like wildfire across the West. The material has been revised and updated, benefitting from the creative ideas and practical experience of landowners and resource managers who have adopted a wildlife friendly approach in their operations.

Wyoming Wildlife – The Foundation provided an initial grant, and many organizations contributed funding and support to make this publication possible: Bridger-Teton National Forest, Firefly Diverters LLC, Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation, National Parks Con-servation Association, Natural Resources Conservation Service, Teton County, Teton Conservation District, Wyoming Game and Fish Department, and Wyoming Wild Sheep Foundation. The Wyoming Land Trust was instrumental in offering financial administration for the project: my thanks to Jordan Vana and Summer Schulz for their kind and steady assistance.

A special thanks to everyone who contributed their insights, research, photographs and manuscript reviews.

Joel Bousman, John Nunn, Steve Pokorny, Don Spellman, Lindsay Wood, and the Wyoming Land Trust shared their experiences for the landowner stories found throughout the document.

My deep thanks to Ed Jenne for his wonderful illustrations and to Nancy Seiler for her beautifully creative talent in layout and design. Any errors in this booklet are mine alone.

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Cover Photo: Jeremy Roberts/Conservation Media; inset photo: Shawn Bryant

Mark Gocke

Author Christine Paige Ravenworks Ecology, Jackson, WY chrispaige@gmail.com

Graphic Design Nancy Seiler Missoula, MT nancy@nancyseiler.com

Illustrations E.R. Jenne Illustration Missoula, MT edjenne@earthlink.net

Citation Paige, C. 2012. A Landowner’s Guide to Fences and Wildlife:

Practical Tips to Make Your Fences Wildlife Friendly.

Wyoming Land Trust, Pinedale, WY. 52 pp.

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Table of Contents

Wildlife and Fences

Problem Fences

Wildlife Friendly Fences Getting Started Fence and Crossing Placement

Friendly Designs An Ideal Fence Visibility Sites with Low or Seasonal Livestock Use Sites with High or Continuous Livestock Use Openings, Crossings and Passes

Remedies for Existing Fences

Residential Fences

Fence Alternatives

If You Must Exclude

Deterring Predators

Getting Help

Sources

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Wildlife and Fences

Why build wildlife friendly fences?

Fences are essential for controlling livestock and trespass, and countless miles of fence crisscross the West like strands of a spider’s web. Fences define and separate ranches and farms, outline property boundaries, enclose pastures and rangelands, and prevent livestock from straying onto highways.

Yet those miles of fence can also create hazards and barriers for wildlife, from big game animals to birds. Fences can block or hinder daily wildlife movements, seasonal migrations, and access to forage and water. Wildlife may avoid areas with too many fences to negotiate – for example, pronghorn choose seasonal ranges with lower fence densities (Sheldon 2005.) When animals collide or tangle in fences they can be injured or killed, and wildlife damage to fences can be costly and frustrating for landowners.

Fence Law in Wyoming A “Fence Out” State:

By law, Wyoming is a “fence out” state, which means that landowners are responsible for protecting their own property from ranging livestock. A stock-owner is not liable for trespass or damage if a property is not adequately protected by a “lawful fence.”

The fence out rule applies to cattle and domestic bison, but Wyoming is a “fence in” state for sheep. This custom has deep roots in Wyoming’s history due to ranching traditions and the large areas of open range in the state.

Generally, a lawful fence is a fence constructed well enough to keep out livestock. Wyoming Statute §11-28-102 stipulates that 3-strand barbed wire, board, pole or rail fence are all acceptable, and the statute provides some examples and specifications.

In addition, however, Wyoming Statute §11-28-102(b) states: “All other fences made and constructed of boards, rails, poles, stones, hedge plants or other material which upon evidence is declared to be as strong and well calculated to protect enclosures, and is as effective for resisting breaching stock as those described in subsection (a) of this section, shall be considered a lawful fence.”

Posting Against Trespass:

Wyoming Statute §6-3-303 provides that notice of trespass is given by

“posting of signs reasonably likely to come to the attention of intruders.”

While many states stipulate the use of orange paint on fence posts or tree trunks to designate no hunting or trespass, there are no specific regulations in Wyoming regarding marking against trespass in this manner.

Other Regulations Check with your county and city offices for any local ordinances or regulations specific to fencing. If your property adjoins a state highway, check with Wyoming Department of Transportation (WYDOT) regarding highway right-of-way fence and options for removing or modifying fence for wildlife.

Many wildlife friendly fence designs are easy and low-cost, or save money by reducing future fence repair.

Yet not all fences create problems for wild animals. By tailoring fence design and placement, you can prevent wildlife injuries and decrease damage to your fence. Many of these methods are low-cost or can save money in the long-run by reducing the need for future fence repair.

This guide will help you construct and modify fences and crossings that are friendlier to wildlife while still meeting fencing needs. It will also help you with sources for technical assistance and possible cost-share opportunities.

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Problem Fences

Problem Fences Although deer, elk, moose, mountain sheep, and pronghorn are all capable of jumping fences, in a variety of situations they can become injured or entangled. Wire strands can readily snag animals and tangle legs, especially if wires are loose or spaced too closely together.

Animals can be hindered by deep snow or steep slopes, and young, pregnant or winter-stressed animals may have a particularly difficult time clear-ing fences. Deer, elk and other wildlife often bear scars from wire barbs. A torn ligament, strained leg or infection can weaken an animal’s chance of survival, and if animals can’t pull free at all, they slowly die of trauma and dehydration.

Some fences, especially woven wire fence, can be a complete barrier to fawns and calves even if adults can still jump over. Separated from their mothers and stranded from the herd, the youngsters curl up and die of exposure and dehydration. Woven wire can snare and strangle medium-sized animals and livestock if they push their heads through the wire mesh, and may block animals such as bears and bobcats that are too large to slip through.

If woven wire is topped with one or more strands of barbed wire, the fence

Winter-stressed, pregnant and young animals may especially have trouble clearing fences. An injury or infection from tangling with fences can weaken an animal’s chance of survival. If animals can’t pull free at all, they die of trauma and dehydration.

becomes a complete barrier, especially for fawns, calves, pronghorn and other animals that are incapable or unwilling to jump over such a fence.

Animals trying to leap a woven wire/ barbed wire fence are even more likely to tangle a leg between the top barbed wire and the stiff woven wire. In urban areas, fences topped with barbs or pointed spikes, such as decorative iron fences, can trap or impale leaping deer and other animals.

Large, low-flying birds, too, may collide with fences and break wings, impale themselves on barbs, or tangle in wires. Ducks, geese, cranes, swans, grouse, hawks and owls are especially vulnerable. Waterfowl fly into fences that run near or across waterways, and hawks and owls may careen into fences when swooping in on prey.

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Above: After crossing a highway, a black bear desperately searches for a way through a woven wire fence, finally climbing a power pole to leap over.

Above: This peregrine falcon died when it collided with a fence while diving on killdeer. Many birds are vulnerable to fence collisions.

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What kinds of fence cause problems for wildlife?

Fences that:

• are too high to jump;

• are too low to crawl under;

• have loose or broken wires;

• have wires spaced too closely together;

• can impale or snag a leaping animal;

• are difficult for running animals or birds to see;

• create a complete barrier.

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Antlered animals can become fatally tangled in poly rope fence and loose barbed wire.

Maintaining fence tension and using high-tensile wire for electric fences prevents such losses.

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Above: This badly tangled pronghorn was fortunately freed by the photographer, who was able to clip the wires.

Elk, deer and other ungulates often die if their legs tangle in wire fences. Woven wire topped with barbed wire was found to be the most lethal type of fence, especially for young wild ungulates.

The Bottom Line: Hard Numbers Recently, researchers at Utah State

University completed a study of wildlife mortality along more than 600 miles of fences in the rangelands of northeast-ern Utah and northwestern Colorado (Harrington 2005, Harrington and Conover 2006). By repeatedly driving and walking fencelines over two seasons, they tallied the number of mule deer, pronghorn and elk carcasses they found caught in fences and lying next to fences. They also studied which fence types caused the most problems.

Here are their key findings:

Snared and Entangled

• On average, one ungulate per year was found tangled for every 2.5 miles of fence.

• Most animals (69% of juveniles and 77% of adults) died by getting caught in the top two wires while trying to jump a fence.

• Juveniles are 8 times more likely to die in fences than adults.

• Mortalities peaked during August, when fawns were weaned.

• Woven wire fence topped with a single strand of barbed wire was the most lethal fence type, as it easily snared and tangled legs between the barbed wire and rigid woven wire.

• 70% of all mortalities were on fences higher than 40".

Blocked and Stranded

• Where ungulates were found dead next to, but not in fences, on average one ungulate per year died for every

1.2 miles of fence.

• 90% of these carcasses found near fences were fawns lying in a curled position – probably separated from their mothers when they could not cross.

• Most of these indirect mortalities were found next to woven wire fences.

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TIP:

If trying to rescue a tangled and struggling animal, covering its head with a cloth or coat will help calm the animal.

Wildlife Friendly Fences

The best situation for wildlife is open habitat with no fences at all. Wherever possible, remove obsolete fences that are no longer needed.

Where you need to fence, less fence is better. Established fences can be modified to allow easier passage, and new fence can be designed with wildlife in mind.

To get started, consider your needs and create a plan. You can tailor any of the designs in this guide to your specific needs.

When you design your fence, consider:

• purpose of the fence;

• topography – hills, gullies, streams and wetlands;

• species of wildlife present;

• daily or seasonal wildlife movements in the area;

• presence of water, food and cover for wildlife;

• presence of young animals.

First consider these questions:

1. What is the purpose of the fence?

Do you need to mark a boundary?

Deter trespass? Enclose or exclude livestock? If your fence is for livestock, what kind, in what seasons, and for how long?

Your purpose should determine your fence design and placement.

2. What is the topography?

Are you fencing on hills, in rocky country where posts cannot be driven, or near or across streams or wetlands?

Design your fence to avoid creating traps for wildlife.

3. Which wildlife species are in your area?

Build fence or crossings that both young and adult animals can negotiate.

4. What are the daily or seasonal wildlife movements in the area?

Do animals calve or nest nearby?

Does wildlife migrate through to winter or breeding areas?

Allow movement and access through natural corridors and habitats.

haystack fence children’s play area moveable/ seasonal power fence lay-down fence lay-down fence elk migration wildlife access to water and travel corridor

Getting Started

Most fences can be designed or modified to allow easier passage for wildlife.

Wildlife Friendly Fences

Fence and Crossing Placement Placement of fences is just as important as the type of fence used.

Fencing need not restrict wildlife movement everywhere on your property.

Wherever possible, design your fence to provide wildlife free travel to important habitats and corridors, as well as access to water. Wetlands and riparian habitats are especially important for all wildlife.

Watch for daily and seasonal wildlife movement patterns and look for trails.

Use impenetrable, special purpose fence only in specific areas where it is critical, such as calving or lambing pastures, haystacks, gardens, orchards, play areas or kennels.

Design property boundary fence so wildlife can easily cross, or with gaps or lay-down sections for wildlife passage whenever and wherever livestock are not present.

Work with your land’s topography.

Swales, gullies, ridges and stream corridors can funnel wildlife through an area – keep these open to allow wildlife passage and avoid topography traps.

A fence of any height is more difficult to cross when placed across a steep slope or next to a deep ditch .

As ground slope increases, the height

0% slope

42"

30% slope

62"

50% slope

75"

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Tailor your fences to specific needs and allow wildlife access to water, important habitats, and travel corridors.

Good Fence Placement Tips

• Look for wildlife trails and watch for seasonal patterns.

• Provide wildlife access to riparian habitats, water holes and other high quality habitats.

• Provide passage along swales, gullies, ridges and stream corridors.

• Use the appropriate fence design for each activity.

• On slopes and in natural travel corridors, plan for wildlife crossings.

C hr ist in e P aig e an animal must jump to clear the fence increases considerably. For instance, a 42" fence may be passable on level ground, but a slope of only 10% increases the effective fence height to 48.6"; a slope of 30% increases effective height to 62", and on a 50% slope animals encounter an obstacle 75" high. Fences on steep slopes become nearly impossible for animals to jump without injury .

smooth barbed barbed smooth

18" preferred (16" minimum)

40" preferred (42" maximum) increase visibility with a pVc cover, high-visibility wire, flagging, or a top rail. 12" idEAl WildlifE friEndly fEncE

Friendly Designs

The friendliest fences are very visible and allow wild animals to easily jump over or slip under the wires or rails.

An Ideal Fence A fence that is friendly to wildlife should:

• Allow animals to jump over and crawl under easily without injury;

• Be highly visible for both ungulates and birds.

You can combine or tailor many of the ideas presented in this guide for your specific situation.

The top wire or rail should be low enough for adult animals to jump over, preferably 40" or less, and no more than 42" high. The distance between the top two wires should be no less than 12" apart. Deer and elk easily tangle their back legs if the top wires are closer together.

The bottom wire or rail should be high enough for pronghorn and young wild ungulates to crawl under. The bottom wire should be a minimum of 16" from the ground and preferably at least 18." Take advantage of small dips, swales and gullies to provide a slightly larger gap below the fence and allow animals to pass under easily. Many cattle ranchers have found that although a small calf may slip under the higher bottom wire, they can also easily slip back again to mom and not be stranded on the wrong side of the fence.

The Wildlife Friendly Fence: A Livestock/Wildlife Compromise These standards will control cattle in most situations and allow for easier wildlife passage.

Fences should be low enough for adult animals to jump, high enough for wildlife to crawl under, and minimize the chance of tangling. We recommend:

• A top wire or rail preferably no more than 40" and a maximum of 42" above the ground;

• At least 12" between the top two wires;

• A bottom wire or rail at least 16" and preferably 18" above the ground;

• Smooth wire or rail for the top, smooth wire on bottom;

• Preferably, no vertical stays. If used, consider stiff plastic or composite stays, or regularly maintain wire stays that are easily bent;

• Posts at 16.5-foot intervals;

• Gates, drop-downs, or other passages where wildlife concentrate and cross.

Increasing visibility using a top rail, high-visibility poly-wire, flagging or other markers can help ungulates and birds better avoid or navigate fences. Using smooth wire – such as barbless twisted wire – for the top and bottom strands will prevent snagging and injuries.

Use electric tape or braid only for temporary applications. It should be removed or lowered to the ground when livestock are not present.

In some situations, fence stays can help maintain distance between strands, prevent sagging, and reduce the chance of entanglement. However, wire stays are easily bent over, collapsing the fence and creating a three-dimensional hazard, and need to be regularly maintained. An alternative is a stiff plastic or composite stay or fiberglass post that flexes but maintains its shape.

In wildlife migration areas, drop-down fence, lay-down fence or other crossings can be incorporated into fence sections for seasonal wildlife passage. Good husbandry practices go hand in hand with wildlife friendlier fences . Livestock that have good forage and the security and companionship they want are much less likely to test or challenge fences .

Although calves may slip under a higher bottom wire, they can also slip back again to mom, and not be stranded.

Located thirteen miles south of Boulder, Wyoming, on the western flank of the Wind River Range, Eastfork Livestock is owned and managed by Joel Bousman and his family. The family’s deep roots in the area run back to Bousman’s grandfather, who homesteaded on the East Fork River, and forward to his grandchildren, the sixth generation to live here.

The family runs a 500-head cow/calf operation on a diverse mix of private ranch land, leased state land, and BLM and Forest Service grazing allotments. The operation stretches from valley sagebrush shrub-steppe and flood-irrigated native grass hay meadows up to montane and alpine meadows.

Bousman has long been committed to balanced use and science-based steward-ship, basing his resource decisions on careful monitoring of conditions. He initiated a cooperative monitoring program among the several permittees on the Silver Creek grazing allotment, and organizes annual monitoring rides with Forest Service, BLM, Game and Fish and NRCS personnel to identify issues and management objectives.

When Bousman learned of the Wyoming Land Trust’s initiatives to install wildlife friendly fences in pronghorn and mule deer migration corridors of Sublette County, he was intrigued. “I always thought that wildlife friendly meant 3-wire smooth wire fence and that wouldn’t work for cattle,” he explains. “Then I was on a land tour and saw this style of fence and thought, well, that would work for us.”

F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T Going Wildlife Friendly at Eastfork Livestock

With the aid of the Wyoming Land Trust, Bousman replaced twelve miles of fence with a wildlife friendly design, using a standard of 42" top wire, a smooth wire on the bottom at 16" and a 12" spacing between Two mule deer found no trouble in crossing an

Eastfork Livestock wildlife friendly fence.

Tracks reveal where mule deer now easily cross Eastfork Livestock’s new wildlife friendly fence. Twelve inches between the top two wires, a smooth bottom wire placed at least 16" high, and a top wire no more than 42” high make a friendly fence.

Joel Bousman points out where mule deer readily cross his cattle fence that was modified for wildlife.

the top and second wire to reduce the chance of animals tangling their legs as they jump over. Fence posts and wires were replaced wherever needed, and otherwise the fence was modified using existing materials as long as they were in good shape.

Pointing out tracks in the early winter snow, Bousman observes, “You can see where the mule deer easily jump over and go under the fence.” Asked about the dimensions of the fence, Bousman says it works well for his cattle, and with the bottom smooth wire at 16" height, he isn’t worried about his calves.

“The only thing that might get through are the really little ones, and not for long – they want to stick close to mom.”

Photo: Christine Paige

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Friendly Designs

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Visibility Running animals and low-flying birds may not see a wire fence clearly against the landscape. Making a fence highly visible prevents collisions, and can help animals judge the height of a fence for jumping.

One solution is a top rail. A rounded rail is preferable as it sheds snow more easily – heavy snow buildup can sometimes deter elk and deer from crossing. For wire fences, an inexpensive modification is to slip sections of small diameter PVC pipe over the top strand.

Smooth wire fences, especially high-tensile wire, may be essentially invisible to animals. Depending on the type of fence, these can be made more visible by adding PVC pipe, flagging, fence markers or highly-visible polywire or polytape on the top strand. Twisted barbless cable is more visible than a single wire strand, and high-visibility wire is available in many

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High visibility helps wildlife negotiate fences. it is especially important in grasslands and near creeks and wetlands to protect low-flying birds, such as grouse, owls and swans. pVc pipe, flagging, or black and white wire or tape all help wildlife see fences.

C hr ist in e P aig e forms – tape, braid and polymer-coated wire – many of which can be electrified if needed. White wire is the most visible in summer, but black and white wire or tape makes the fence visibly obvious against both summer vegetation and snow.

Markers for Wire Fence For barbed or woven wire fence:

• Cut several 12′ strips of “undersill” or trim strips of white vinyl siding, available at home hardware centers.

• Cut strips to 3" pieces. Use tin snips for small projects, or use a 10" miter saw with a 200-tooth blade to cut up to 16 pieces at a time for larger projects.

• One 12′ siding strip yields 48 pieces.

• For extra visibility, add reflective tape to both sides of the markers, which increases detection in low light. Or use both black and white markers for visibility against snow and vegetation.

• Snap pieces onto fence wires – they are held in place between barbs.

Wyoming Game and fish has found that, for each rod of fence, a minimum of two pieces with reflective tape on the top wire is effective. Or, alternate four pieces of black and white markers on the top wire. Marking a lower or bottom wire will increase visibility for pronghorn and other wildlife.

For smooth wire fence:

• To keep the vinyl siding markers from sliding, crimp a ferrule, twist a small spring, or tighten a UV-resistant zip-tie (tie-wrap) onto the wire on each side of the marker. Although this adds time to installation, it keeps the markers in place. Crimping the marker itself causes the marker to wear and break.

• An alternative is to make flags from reflective tape that can adhere to the wire (note, however, that reflective tape will conduct power on a hot wire.)

• Some commercially-made markers available online or in ranch supply outlets may work better on smooth wire.

• Place a minimum of two flags per rod of fence on the top wire; or up to four on the top wire and three on the middle or bottom wire.

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Fence Flags for Grouse and Other Birds

Fence flags or markers dramatically increase visibility of wire fences for wildlife, especially birds, and help animals avoid and negotiate fences.

Research on sage-grouse in Wyoming, Idaho and Montana has shown that fence markers can reduce fence collisions by 70% to more than 80%.

Research on sage-grouse and other prairie grouse has shown that fence collisions are common and widespread, especially near breeding areas.

Grouse fly fast and low into their mating areas (called “leks”) just before dawn and, in the dim light, are vulnerable to colliding with nearby fences.

However marking fence for visibility can dramatically reduce collisions by 70% to 83% (Christiansen 2009; Stevens et al.

in press b.) (continued)

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M vinyl markers smooth or barbed

18" durablE MArkErS on WirE fEncE durable and lightweight fence markers can be cut from strips of vinyl siding trim. The trim strip has a lip that easily snaps onto fence wires.

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Not every mile of fence needs to be marked for grouse . Marking is most important where there are high densities of birds: within 1.2 miles of a lek and in wintering areas. Also, sage-grouse are most vulnerable to collisions in open, flat or rolling country, and in areas with more fences (>1.5 miles of fence per square mile; Stevens et al. in press a., in press b.)

A relatively inexpensive and durable marking technique uses 3" flags cut from vinyl “undersill” or trim siding strips.

The undersill siding has a lip that can be snapped onto barbed wire fence, with the barbs keeping the markers from sliding.

As an alternative, commercially produced fence markers can be purchased through a number of retail and mail order outlets.

For example, the Firefly Diverter at www .fireflytechproducts .com has UV-visible reflective tape. Fly Safe at www .flysafellc .com works on barbed wire. The See-A-Fence marker at www .knifesedgellc .com/seeafence .html works on smooth wire fence.

While marking the top wire only is effective for grouse, adding markers to lower wires may also help pronghorn and other wildlife that slip under fences.

Visibility (continued)

F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T Experience Nets Advice on Wildlife Friendly Fence

Plenty of elk and pronghorn migrate across John Nunn’s ranch in Albany County, Wyoming. His operation, Needmore Land & Cattle, runs mother cows, calves and yearlings, depending on the market, and covers a checkerboard of BLM and state lands in addition to private ranch land. Once a sheep operation, the ranch had extensive woven wire and traditional 5- and 6-strand barbed wire fences, which slowed game movement through the area.

Nunn partnered with NRCS on a cost-share project and installed more than 4 miles of wildlife friendly fence: a 4-strand fence with three barbed strands and the bottom wire smooth. The top strand is at 42" or less, with 12" spacing between the top and second wires, and the bottom smooth wire is at 16" to 18".

After two to three years’ experience with the fence, Nunn’s experience has been largely positive. “The fence works well, especially on open plains,” he says. Although in 30 years Nunn only had one instance of an antelope tangled in his old fence, he still likes the new 4-strand fence as it allows for freer wildlife movement. “Wildlife can flow through a lot easier now.”

In some situations, livestock will test a fence when motivated by something more attractive on the other side. A watering hole, tank or water gap can be strong motivation, as can heifers and bulls on either side of the fence. Nunn says his yearlings sometimes test the fence if there is something tempting outside it. “They’re just teenagers. They’re curious and just create more problems.”

The 16" to 18" bottom wire allows antelope to pass under easily, and isn’t usually an issue for calves that slip through on the needmore land & cattle operation in Albany county, a 4-wire wildlife friendly fence works well across open plains.

as they will crawl right back to their moms.

However, Nunn suggests it could pose a problem if the fence divides two groups of cattle, both with mothers and calves.

In short, when planning your fence Nunn advises thinking about your specific operation, as well as that of neighbors with adjoining pastures, and using a combination of wildlife friendly and traditional fence if needed.

As for wildlife, he says, “The fence works great.”

Ruben Vasquez, NRCS

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Sites with Low or Seasonal Livestock Use

Not all situations require a 5-strand barbed wire or a woven wire fence. Many situations with low or seasonal livestock use can be fenced with a 3-strand smooth wire fence, various types of post and rail fences, or moveable electric fence.

Seasonal pastures, cross fences, and horse pastures lend themselves to designs that are much more permeable for wildlife.

3-Strand Smooth Wire Fence Use 3 strands of smooth (barbless) wire. To increase visibility, use coated wire or barbless twisted cable – the latter can also be more durable than single strand smooth wire. (Note that high-tensile wire should only be used for electrified applications. High-tensile can also be difficult for animals to see, and horses can sometimes be cut by high-tensile wire.)

Adjacent to bighorn sheep winter range, this smooth wire fence replaced old 4- and 5-strand barbed wire fence. The fence is 3-strand smooth wire with a 39" top wire and 16" bottom wire. bighorn sheep now readily hop over and duck under the fences.

3-STrand SMooTH WirE fEncE

16.5′ all smooth wires

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28-30"

40" preferred (42" maximum) wood or steel posts

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3-Strand Smooth Wire Fence

• Top wire 40" to 42" high.

• Center wire 28" to 30" above the ground; maintain 12" spacing with the top wire.

• Bottom wire 18" above the ground.

• Preferably, no vertical stays.

• Wood or steel posts at 16.5-foot intervals.

• To increase visibility, use coated wire or double twisted smooth wire.

Seasonal Electric Wire Fence A flexible electric fence that allows passage for elk and other ungulates can still be effective for livestock, particularly horses trained to electric fence. It can be laid down seasonally to allow free wildlife passage. This fence is useful for keeping livestock out of sensitive habitats or for short-duration grazing where permanent fencing isn’t desired.

To work properly, this fence needs to flex as elk and other animals pass over it . Install as few rigid post supports as possible, and use the minimum recommended wire tension. Placing the energizer toward the middle of the fence will afford the greatest electrical efficiency.

This 2-strand seasonal power fence can be used where livestock are trained to electric fence.

Wooden posts brace the ends. The fiberglass posts can be laid down when the fence is not in use.

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Seasonal Electric Wire Fence

• Pre-drill 72" x 1" heavy fiberglass posts.

• Drive posts 24" into the ground at a 32-foot spacing (a t-post pounder can be used if ground is soft).

• Use treated wooden posts for bracing at ends and center.

• Place a top wire of conductive high-visibility tape, braided wire or polymer-covered wire no higher than 42" height, electrically charged (medium-tensile 12-gauge plastic-coated wire is satisfactory).

• Place a second grounded strand of high-tensile wire at 30".

• Attach strands to fiberglass posts with wire clips that can be removed when fence is laid down.

• Use insulators for attaching hot top wire to wooden posts; grounded wire can be stapled or clipped directly to wooden posts.

• Use a solar electric energizer (size and placement depends on the run length of fence).

• Hard-wiring is an option when a power source is readily available.

A temporary electric fence can be used to keep livestock out of sensitive areas and is easily negotiated by most wildlife.

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Moveable Electric Wire Fence Moveable electric fence can be used for short-duration grazing, to keep livestock out of sensitive areas such as wetlands, or for other situations where livestock need to be temporarily controlled. This fence works well for livestock that have been previously trained to electric fence.

The design can be tailored to your situation, but a simple fence can be constructed using high visibility tape or “turbo wire” and fiberglass posts or plastic-insulated steel posts. A moveable fence can use either a single hot wire (when there is sufficient moisture for an adequate ground) or two wires, the top one hot, the lower wire grounded.

Moveable posts on the market include designs with hooked or pigtail tops for quickly stringing wire, and a tread-in base.

These can be rapidly set up and moved as needed.

Moveable Electric Wire Fence

• Use 40" to 42" fiberglass or plastic-insulated steel posts, designed with hooks or loops for wire and tread-in spikes at the base.

• Place one to two strands of high-visibility tape or polymer-covered turbo wire. If two wires, the top should be hot, the lower wire grounded. Top wire should be no higher than 42"; lower wire no lower than 18".

• Use a solar electric energizer (size and placement depends on the run length of fence).

Tips on Electric Fences Most electric fence problems are caused by poor grounding. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for grounding the energizer and fence for your fence type and conditions. The number of ground rods needed may vary; a maximum reading of 0.2kv on a volt meter in dry conditions indicates an adequate ground. Wooden and steel fence posts require insulators for attaching hot wires; ground wires can be stapled or clipped on directly.

Fiberglass and plastic line posts do not need insulators, but do require special clips for attaching wires. Check the fence regularly to be sure it is charged.

Seth Wilson

Near Spotted Horse, Wyoming, 40 miles north of Gillette, Lindsay Wood helps ranch owner Don Spellman run a cow/calf operation with about 300 cows. The range is sagebrush shrub-steppe – pronghorn and mule deer country – with about 400 acres cultivated for hay that is also grazed.

Wood and Spellman favor a system of intensive rotational grazing and use tempo-rary electric fence and electric cross fences to make their operation easily manageable.

The meadows are dryland alfalfa and grass.

Wood uses both single strand (one hot wire) and double strand (hot and ground) fences, and learned they don’t need any more than that to control their cows. The double strand fences are the standard used for NRCS EQIP electric fence projects, however Wood finds that a single strand fence is often adequate for their operation.

“The cattle are trained to the fences,” she says. “Once trained to it, and if you keep feed in front of them, they don’t test our fences.

Sometimes calves get out but they go right back in.”

Many of their fences are marked for sage-grouse, but Wood and Spellman encountered problems finding an effective marker to use on smooth wire. Vinyl markers slide down the smooth wire, and if clamped tight the markers break. Reflective tape at-tached to the wire will conduct power, and if pronghorn go through the 2-strand fence, the vinyl markers can catch and tangle the fence wires. (For marking solutions, see page 14.)

F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T Electric Fence Helps Rancher Work Smarter

The oldest perimeter fences on the ranch, once a sheep operation, are 5- and 6-strand barbed wire, which they keep maintained. However Wood says they rebuild about a mile of perimeter fence each year, replacing it with 4-strand barbed wire.

As for the electric fences, wildlife readily cross them and Wood never sees pronghorn blocked by a fence or tangled in wires. “They’re incredibly cost-effective,” Wood says. “They’re easier to install, the posts are easier to drive, and I’m not muscling and pulling on barbed wire.” If she encounters a problem, such as a drop or loss of power, it’s just a matter of getting out the fence tester. “You have to use your brain to figure out where your problems are,” she says.

“You can work smarter, not harder.”

Once cattle are trained to the fence, a single-strand electric fence is highly effective for the intensive rotational grazing system on the Spellman Ranch.

Photos: Lindsay Wood

18"

40" poST And rail fEncE all smooth wires

18"

12"

40" poST And WirE fEncE

Post and Rail Fence A post and rail fence is highly visible to wildlife and can be constructed for situations with or without livestock.

Rail fences can either use a top rail with wires below, or two to three rails total.

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Post and Rail Fence

• Use pressure-treated 6′ to 8′ posts, spaced 10′ to 14′ apart.

• Use pressure-treated poles for top rail, placed no more than 40" above the ground. A half-round rail will attach more snugly and require shorter bolts.

• Place smooth lower wires at 18" and 28" above the ground.

Second wire should be at least 12" below top rail.

• OR place pressure-treated poles for lower rails, the bottom rail placed with at least 18" clearance from the ground.

A 2-rail fence is preferable to a 3-rail fence for wildlife. Unless the fence is quite low, use rounded poles for the top rail, rather than a square or split-rail, to prevent too much snow build-up in winter, which can deter elk and deer. Also, unless the fence is easily jumped and there is ample clearance underneath, boards or planks are not recommended as these can create a visual barrier.

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Sites with High or Continuous Livestock Use

Most livestock pastures do not require a 5- to 6-strand barbed wire fence. In many situations, a 3- or 4-strand barbed wire fence, a combination of smooth and barbed wire, or a high-tensile electric fence will work well for livestock control, particularly if the pasture quality inside the fence is as good or better as outside the fence.

Tips for Livestock Fences Sheep, bison and cows with calves may require a more imperme-able fence for control. If you must use fences with woven wire or more than four wires follow these tips:

• Consider the placement of the fence perimeter carefully, and limit the extent of impermeable fence wherever possible.

• Avoid excluding wildlife from streamsides and water sources, or cutting off migration and travel corridors.

• Keep the fence height to a maximum of 40" to 42" and create periodic crawl-openings for fawns and calves by raising the bottom 18" from the ground, placed where animals typically travel.

• Avoid topping woven wire fences with barbed wire. In any situation, allow 12" between the top wire and the next wire below – whether barbed or woven wire.

• Create seasonal openings using lay-down fence sections or gates to open the fence during months when livestock are not present. create seasonal openings by leaving a gate open, lowering rails or wires, or using sections of lay-down fence during months when livestock are not present.

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Sheep and Cattle 4-Strand Barbed Wire Fence (Adapted from Wyoming Game and Fish Dept., 2004)

Recommended Wire Heights Above the Ground Cattle Sheep Sheep & Cattle

Top wire 40" to 42" barbed 32" barbed 38" barbed

2nd wire 28" barbed 22" barbed 26" barbed

3rd wire 22" barbed 16" barbed 18" barbed

4th wire 16" to 18" smooth 10" min. smooth 10" min. smooth

4-STrand bArbEd WirE WiTH bottoM SMooTH WirE barbed

18" barbed barbed smooth

24"

40" preferred (42" maximum)

30"

4-Strand Barbed Wire for Cattle or Sheep

Woven wire fence, the most commonly-used type of fence on sheep range, is also the most problematic for wildlife. It can block wildlife passage, particularly for fawns, calves, prong-horn and medium-sized animals unable to jump fences. When combined with barbed wire, it has the highest rate of entanglements for wildlife.

An alternative for sheep and cattle range is a 4-strand barbed wire fence that controls livestock but still allows for passage of pronghorn, deer, moose and elk.

For cattle, use a wire spacing of 18–22–28–40/42". The top wire should be at 40" to 42" or less. Allow 12" between the top two wires and 18" between the bottom wire and the ground.

Use a smooth bottom wire.

Sheep require a low fence that would block most wildlife from crawling beneath the fence, however a 4-strand fence for sheep can have a top wire no more than 32" high, which is low enough for most wildlife to jump. Allow at least 10" between the top two wires. (As a lower fence is easier for deer and elk to jump, the 10" spacing between top and second wires will usually be adequate.)

The bottom wire should be smooth wire and at least 10" above the ground.

Combination Smooth and Barbed Wire Fence

In many situations, a combination of smooth wire and barbed wire can effectively contain livestock and allow for easier wildlife passage. Smooth wire can be used for the top and bottom wires and one to two barbed wire strands are used for the center strands. Barbless twisted cable wire or coated wire will increase visibility for wildlife. The top wire should be 40" to 42" high or lower, and the bottom wire at least 18" above the ground to provide wildlife clearance.

Allow at least 12" between the top and second wires.

Combination Smooth and Barbed Wire

• Place top smooth wire at

40" to 42" maximum height – barbless twisted cable wire or coated wire is recommended.

• Allow at least 12" between top and second wires.

• Place bottom smooth wire at least 18" from the ground.

• Use barbed wire for center two wires.

A bottom smooth wire aids passage for pronghorn and other wildlife.

Steve Pokorny and his family were dealing with miles of old fence on their ranch in Fremont County, Wyoming, where they run a cow-calf operation.

“The newest part of the fence was built in the 1950s, and it had been mended up for 60 years.” explains Pokorny. Over the years, wires were patched and added, so the fence was a maintenance headache and a hazard for the abundant wildlife in the area.

“When you have irrigated ground you get a lot of deer and antelope, and they can raise havoc with a customary barb wire fence,” says Pokorny. The ranch is also in the middle of a high density area for sage-grouse in Wyoming. Sage-grouse leks border the valley on surrounding uplands, and in summer grouse use the ranch’s hay meadows.

In 2011, through a cost-share project with NRCS, Pokorny replaced 10 miles of old barbed wire boundary fences with 3-strand high-tensile wire fence (top wire hot, middle wire ground, and bottom wire hot).

The cattle took no time at all to train to the power fence. “All it takes is one time for one of them and then they all seem to know,” Pokorny says. “The antelope, with their hollow hairs, go right under it and the deer jump right over it.”

Pokorny went into the project with some confidence in high-tensile fence, having used it to divide an allotment several years ago, and he doesn’t expect problems. Now deer and pronghorn can move freely through the ranch and adjacent lands without tangling in or breaking down the fences. The new fence reduces maintenance, which not only helps the family’s operations today, but was a consideration for the next generation coming up on the ranch as well.

F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T High-tensile Fence a Practical Solution on the Pokorny Ranch

Maclean Hellyer and Joseph Hellyer, grand-sons of Steve Pokorny, show off the new high-tensile fence on their family ranch. Thinking of the next generation coming up on the ranch, durability and ease of maintenance was a primary concern when Steve Pokorny replaced 10 miles of old boundary fence.

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3-Wire High-tensile Electric Fence

Researchers in Wyoming found that a flexible 3-wire high-tensile fence (with a hot – ground – hot configuration) is not only effective for containing cattle and bison, but allows elk, mule deer and pronghorn to traverse the fence. They found that wild ungulates usually were not deterred by electric fences even with charges ranging from 0.5 and 4.5 joules, perhaps because of the insulating proper-ties of their hair. Although wild ungulates were occasionally shocked when they nosed or bit a wire, or touched hot and grounded wires together, most animals readily negotiated the fences.

Further, the researchers determined that 3-wire fences effectively contained bulls separated from cows coming into estrus, and calves from cows in the fall.

Also, they found that a 3-wire fence was just as effective for containing bison as a 4-wire fence. A 2-wire fence can be used for areas without weaning calves but, curiously, pronghorn showed a high aversion to 2-wire fences, perhaps because of the novel height and their general reluctance to jump fences rather than crawl under (Karhu and Anderson 2003, 2006).

High-tensile fences require proper construction techniques, including adequate braces, proper tensioning, care not to kink or break wire, and proper attachments and insulators for line posts and braces. The flexibility of the fence is key to allowing wildlife to pass over and through the fence. Fiberglass posts are used for all line posts, and wooden posts are used only for braces, direction changes and gates.

High-tensile fences need minimal maintenance, provide great strength, can be easily electrified and will outlast most other fences. For technical details, see the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) specifications for per-manent power fence (NRCS 2006a).

10"

8"

22"

+ hot

- ground

+ hot

42" top wire

1" diameter fiberglass poles

3-WirE HiGH-TEnSilE ElEcTric fEncE

A 3-wire high-tensile electric fence is effective even for separating bulls from cows in estrus, and for containing bison. using high tensile wire at the proper tension is key to prevent wildlife damage.

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Note that smooth high-tensile wire can be difficult for animals to see. Adding markers or survey flagging to the top wire can help. One commercial example that works on smooth wire is the See-A-Fence flags, available at www .knifesedgellc .

com/seeafence .html .

Keeping the fence powered prevents wildlife from leaning into it.

If power is off, consider laying the fence flat to the ground if it will not create an entanglement hazard.

This flexible 3-wire high-tensile fence contains cattle, bison and horses, but allows big game to easily pass.

3-Wire High-tensile Electric Fence

Maintaining fence flexibility is key to allowing wildlife to traverse the fence .

• Use fiberglass line posts no greater than 1" in diameter.

• Brace fence with wood posts at least

5" in diameter; brace all corners, gates, and direction changes greater than 15 degrees. Appropriate insulators are needed with wooden posts.

• Space line posts 45' to 60' apart and do not use stays. Fence stays make it harder for wildlife to pass between the wires, and may cause the fence to flip.

• Smooth, 12.5 gauge, Class III galvanized wire with a tensile strength of 170,000 PSI and breaking strength of 1308 lbs. is adequate.

• Increase visibility by using flagging, fence markers or high tensile wire coated for visibility.

• Top wire is hot; second wire is grounded, bottom wire is hot.

• Space wires at 22–30–40/42" from the ground. The top wire should be no higher than 42" with 10" between the top two wires. The 10" spacing is necessary for cattle to contact both hot and ground wires, but poses little hazard for wildlife due to the fence's flexibility. A bottom wire at 22" allows both young and adult wild animals to pass under easily.

• Connect wires to posts with metal clips or fasteners designed for electric fences; use porcelain insulators on wooden braces.

• Tighten wires to 150 lbs. tension. If too tight, the wires are more likely to break. Although high-tensile wire has a high breaking point, it is also more brittle, and easily broken if tightly bent or kinked.

• Place solar energizer according to manufacturer recommendations.

• Ground fence properly according to the energizer instructions, and add extra rods as needed. Locate ground rods at fence ends and intermittently in between.

• Ground rods are relatively cheap and extra rods will ensure the fence will be effective.

• When livestock aren't present, either drop the wires flat to the ground or keep the fence electrified to prevent wildlife damage. (Keeping the fence powered can also prevent the battery from freezing and prolong battery life.)

• Securely attach electric fence warning signs intermittently along the fence and at crossing points.

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F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T

Wyoming Land Trust and Sublette County Ranchers Come to the Aid of Wildlife

Where the Green River and its tributaries flow across the high sagebrush rangelands of Sublette County, a river of big game also streams through – elk, mule deer, pronghorn and moose migrate to winter range where the wind scours snow away from winter forage, and then return again to the high country as snows recede in spring.

The Green River Basin is also ranch country, with 250 working ranches, more than 100 of which have been owned and operated by the same families for over a century. In 2000, a group of local ranchers, small business owners and teachers formed the Green River Valley Land Trust, now called the Wyoming Land Trust (WLT).

The Trust uses voluntary conservation easements to help landowners conserve what they hold dear: viable agriculture, wildlife habitat, open space and sweeping…