ATTACH_Specification.pdf

NCTRF PD-08-15C

CAGE CODE 32263

4 May 2016

SUPERCEDING

NCTRF PD-08-15B

14 August 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SLACKS, WOMEN’S (BLUE, ENLISTED)

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for a woman’s 100% wool service dress blue 13 button slack.

1.2 Classification. The slacks will be of one type and in the following sizes, lengths and body styles (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Sizes.: 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26

1.2.2 Lengths.: Extra-Petite (XP), Petite (P), Regular (R), Tall (T), Extra-Tall (XT)

1.2.3 Body styles: Junior (J) and Misses (M) are body style I.

Womens (W) are body style II.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this document, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FSC 8410

NCTRF PD 08-15C

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-823 - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-B-17143 - Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) MIL-C-21852 - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-656 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Women’s (Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil, see 6.4.

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY DRAWINGS

01-NCTRF-15 - Crow tack Stitch Enlargement

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Copies of these documents are available at the procuring activity (see 6.3.).

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Color Staining AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light:

Xenon AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

(Copies are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 204 - Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D 1907 - Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the Skein Method ASTM D 3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM D 6775 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Webbing, Tape and Braided Material

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test-Modified Draize Procedure-Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fifth edition), A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp. 1378-1385 - 1060, 2008.

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com or from Taylor and Francis, 7625 Empire Drive, Florence KY 41042.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Materials and components.

3.2.1 Basic material. The material for the slacks shall be wool, serge, 15 ounces per linear yard, Blue 3346, conforming to Type I, Class 5 of MIL-DTL-823 (see 6.2).

3.2.2 Cloth, twill. The material for the pocketing shall be twill cloth conforming to Class 1 of http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.com/

A-A-52106. The color shall be black.

3.2.3 Interlining. The interlining for the waistband shall be a fusible material; Harodite Industries, Item number 4310CHAR, or equal, see 6.5.

3.2.4 Thread.

3.2.4.1 Thread, covered, cotton. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be cotton covered polyester core thread. The thread shall conform to Type I, of A-A-50199. The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1). Polyester-covered polyester core thread shall not be used.

3.2.4.1.1 Thread color (Blue). The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.4.2 Thread, cotton alternate. As an alternate to the thread specified in 3.2.4.1, a cotton thread may be used conforming to Type I of A-A-52094. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.2.4.3 Thread, automatic button sewing. When an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is used. The thread shall be nylon waxed monochord Special No. 5, having a breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2150 yards and shall be tested for these requirements in accordance with

4.4.2. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. .

3.2.4.4 Thread, crowtack. The thread for the crowtack shall be Type I of A-A-50199. The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.4.4.1 Thread, color (Blue). The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.4.5 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall have soft or glazed finish, Tex size 180-210 conforming to A-A-50198. The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1). The dyed gimp shall show colorfastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration.

The dyed gimp shall show a colorfastness rating of 3-4 when testing as specified in 4.4.2.

3.2.5 Buttons.

3.2.5.1 Waistband button. The plastic, insignia, sewing-hole-type buttons shall be 25-ligne, anchor emblem, Navy Shade Black 400 in accordance with the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, and shall conform to Class 1 of MIL-B-17143.

3.2.5.2 Faux broadfall buttons. The buttons for the faux broadfall shall be plastic, insignia, sewing-hole-type buttons shall be 25-ligne, anchor emblem, Navy Shade Black 400 in accordance with the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, and shall conform to Class 1 of MIL- B-17143, except shall have a flat back.

3.2.6 Binding. The binding for raw edges and inside bottom edge of waistband, curved edge of fly and inside broadfall waistband shall be nylon taffeta cloth conforming to Type IV of MIL-C-21852. The color shall be black.

3.2.7 Tape. The tape for the hanger loops shall be cotton, 1/2 or 5/8 inch wide cotton tape dyed black, conforming to Type I, Class 3 of A-A-52071, except colorfastness to bleaching is not required. (see 6.6)

3.2.8 Slide fastener. The slacks slide fastener shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Size 3-4 cam or semi-automatic locking, short tab pull of A-A-55634 (see 6.4). All metal components of the slide fastener shall be black oxidized brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same contractor.

The color of the slide fastener tape shall be black.

3.2.9 Lace. The lace for the back opening shall be a braid and have plastic tips and shall conform to the following requirements (when tested as specified in 4.4.2). The lace shall show colorfastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration. The lace shall show a colorfastness rating of 3-4 when testing as specified in 4.4.2.

Yarn Polyester, 150 Denier, continuous filament Braid (Lace) Flat, non-tubular, 33 carriers, 2 or 3 ends per carrier

26 picks per inch (min) Color Black Weight 6.25 ounces per 100 laces (min) Breaking Strength 45 pounds (min) Length 37 inches (+ 1/-0) inclusive of plastic tips Width 10/32 inch (± 1/32) Plastic Tips Both ends, 3/4 inch long, black

3.2.10 Labels.

3.2.10.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each slack shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from its edge and shall not go through the printing. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment

NAME:

WOMEN’S (BLUE, ENLISTED)

FIBER CONTENT: 100% WOOL

CONTRACT NO: SP0100-00-0-0000 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (If other than contractor):

LOT NUMBER 1/

USE AND CARE

CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS:

DRY CLEANING ONLY

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

PRESS GARMENT INSIDE OUT

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.2.10.2 Size label. Each slack shall have a size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL- DTL-32075. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment. The label shall also reflect the body styles and length designation adjacent to the size designation. Abbreviation for the applicable body styles shall be J for Junior, M for Misses, and W for Women’s. Abbreviation for the applicable length shall be XP for Extra Petite, P for Petite, R for Regular, T for Tall and XT for Extra Tall. The inscription shall be as stated below.

Example

3.2.10.3 Removable size ticket. Each slack shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband, two inches to the left of the left side gusset stitching. The ticket shall be 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double-perforated for ease in tacking the size (12MR – Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for sizes, lengths, body types shall be in accordance with 3.2.10.2

3.2.10.4 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The label shall conform Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The barcode element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The tag shall not cause a spot or stain on the garment.

OR

A commercial type combination removable size ticket and barcode label may be used, that folds over the top of the waistband. All information shall be visible on inner side and outer side of the paper tag and at the top fold of the paper tag (top of waistband) (see 3.2.10.3 and 3.2.10.4). The information on inner side and outer side of the combination ticket/label shall include:

SIZE

NSN

BARCODE

UPC

The top fold of the paper tag (top of waistband) shall include the SIZE only.

3.2.11 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.5. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.2).

3.3 Design. The slacks shall have a faux 13 button broadfall front with a center front slide fastener fly opening and a button closure at waistband extension. The slacks shall have a two section front and two section back contoured 2-ply self-fabric waistband, with a hanger loop positioned at each side seam. The slacks shall have a 2-piece bell-bottom leg with a side seam.

The back panel for Misses and Junior body styles shall have two back waist darts (one each

12MR

8410-00-000-0000 panel), and the Womens body style shall have four back waist darts (two each panel). The slacks shall have a laced eyelet placket type gusset at the center back waist and two horizontal hanging front waistband pockets. There shall be crowtacks at the bottom of each faux broadfall opening and at the bottom of the center back gusset. The leg bottoms shall be unhemmed and overedged.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 6 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.5 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the document or governed by the pattern. There are two pattern sets, one set for Juniors and Misses and one set for Womens. The patterns provide a 3/8 inch seam allowance, except as otherwise specified in Table IV.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified.

The template shall be used to verify size, uniformity and/or dimensions of finished garments.

Pattern designates size, length and body style (see 3.2.10.2).

TABLE I. – Pattern parts, body style I: Misses and Juniors – All lengths

NOMENCLATURE OF PATTERN

PARTS

COMPUTER

NOMENCLATURE

NUMBER OF

CUT PARTS

Basic Material (3.2.1)

BACK PD0815-BACK 2

FRONT PD0815-FRONT 2

FRONT ALTERNATE 1/ PD0815-FRONT ALTERNT 2

FLY PD0815-FLY 1

BACK WAISTBAND PD0815-BACK WSTBAND 4

FRONT WAISTBAND PD0815-FRONT WSTBND 4

BROADFALL BACKING PD0815-BROADFALL BKG 2

GUSSET PD0815-GUSSET 1

GUSSET FACING PD0815-GUSSET FACING 2

POCKET FACING PD0815-POCKET FACNG 2

BROADFALL FACING PD0815-BROADFALL FAC 2

Cloth, twill: (3.2.2)

POCKET PD0815-POCKET 2

Interlining (3.2.3)

BACK WAISTBAND INTERLINING PD0815-BCK WSBND INT 2

FRONT WAISTBAND INTERLINING PD0815-FRNT WB INT 2

TABLE I. – Pattern parts, body style I: Misses and Juniors – All lengths, continued

Templates

BROADFALL V TEMPLATE PD0815-BRDFLL V TMP -

BUTTONHOLE TEMPLATE PD0815-BUTTONHL TMP -

GUSSET V TEMPLATE PD0815-GUSSET V TMP -

1/ Alternate pattern provided for ease of manufacturing for some manufacturers

TABLE II. – Pattern parts, body style II: Womens – All lengths

NOMENCLATURE OF

PATTERN PARTS

COMPUTER NOMENCLATURE

1/

NUMBER

OF CUT

Basic Material (3.2.1)

BACK PD0815W-BACK 2

FRONT PD0815W- FRONT 2

FRONT ALTERNATE 2/ PD0815W-FRONT ALTERN 2

FLY PD0815W-FLY 1

BACK WAISTBAND PD0815W-BACK WSTBAND 4

FRONT WAISTBAND PD0815W-FRONT WSTBND 4

BROADFALL BACKING PD0815W-BROADFLL BKG 2

GUSSET PD0815W-GUSSET 1

GUSSET FACING PD0815W-GUSSET FACNG 2

POCKET FACING PD0815W-POCKET FACNG 2

BROADFALL FACING PD0815W-BROADFLL FAC 2

Cloth, twill: (3.2.2)

POCKET PD0815W-POCKET 2

Interlining (3.2.3)

BACK WAISTBAND INTERLINING PD0815W-BCK WBND INT 2

FRONT WAISTBAND INTERLINING PD0815W-FRNT WB INT 2

Templates

BROADFALL V TEMPLATE PD0815W-BRDFLL V TMP -

BUTTONHOLE TEMPLATE PD0815W-BUTTONHL TMP -

GUSSET V TEMPLATE PD0815W-GUSSET V TMP -

1/ The “W” prefix designates “Womens”.

2/ Alternate pattern provided for ease of manufacturing for some manufacturers.

3.6.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and the width shall be 1/8 inch (± 1/32). Where stitch type 401 or 101 is used, the chain of the stitch shall be on the inside of the slacks. Unless otherwise specified edge stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. Double needle stitching shall be 1/4 (± 1/16) inch gauge with the outer row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge and continuous lines of stitching. Repairs shall not be allowed for double needle stitching. During the overedge operations, a knife shall be used for trimming off loose thread ends. The gauge of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch.

Buttonholes shall be cut clean and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Crowtacks shall be constructed in accordance with Drawing Number 01-NCTRF-15. Use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable provided the basting thread shall not show on the outside of the finished slacks.

3.6.2.1 Thread and seam types. The following stated in Table II are the thread and seam requirements for use in Table III. (delete seam and substitute stitch)

TABLE III – Thread requirements for stitches

Operation Reference paragraph

Thread Type Stitch type Thread size Ticket No. Ply

Seaming, stitching, tacking

3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle 50

2 or 3

301 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Bobbin

401 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Looper

503, 504, or

31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Looper

Buttonhole 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Bartack 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Alternate for seaming, stitching, and tacking

3.2.4.2 A-A-52094, Type I

301 40 Tex, Needle 40 Tex, Bobbin

401 40 Tex, Needle 30 Tex, Bobbin

503, 504, or

31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Looper

Buttonhole 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Bartack 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Crowtack stitching

3.2.4.2 A-A-52094, Type I

Embroidery 60 Tex, Needle 70 Tex, Needle

60 Tex, Bobbin

35 Tex, Bobbin

B or C

B or 30

3.2.4.4 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle 50

TABLE III – Thread requirements for stitches, continued

Operation Reference paragraph Thread Type Stitch type Thread size Ticket No. Ply

Broadfall button sewing

3.2.5.2 A-A-50199

Type I

36-45 Tex, Needle

36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Waistband button sewing

3.2.5.1 Nylon

waxed monochord Special No.

5 (see 3.2.4.3)

Needle Needle Bobbin (see 3.2.4.3)

3.6.2.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table IV.

3.6.2.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.7 Buttonholes. All buttonholes shall be an eyelet-end, square-bar type, reinforced fully covered worked over gimp, gimp trimmed and not visible and stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. The end of the buttonhole shall be bartacked and shall securely catch the ends of the gimp and cover the width of the buttonhole at the end. The purling shall finish on the outside. The waistband buttonhole shall have a finished inside cut length of 3/4 inch. The remaining 12 buttonholes are non-functional and shall not be cut through. The non-functional buttonholes shall be an eyelet-end square-bar type, reinforced fully covered worked over gimp with bartacked ends and shall be identical in appearance.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The slacks shall be made in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table IV. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified, however the finished slacks shall be identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as specified in Table IV. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment.

3.9 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table IV shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine.

3.10 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the slack shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.11 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table IV are as follows:

Stch - Stitch Brtck - Bartack Smlr - Similar Btnhl - Buttonhole S E - Stitch Enlargement Min - Minimum Btn - Button Cn’d - Continued

This section is intentionally blank

TABLE IV – Construction of slacks

No. Operation STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

PER INCH

1.

2.

3.

4.

Cutting

a. The basic material and interlining shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall show size, shape, and directional lines for cutting, and notches and pattern marks for proper assembly of parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material, except Gusset, Gusset Facings and Pocket Facings, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall be a good match to the main assembly.

c. Cut the twill cloth in accordance with furnished pocket patterns.

d. The binding shall be cut on a 45 (± 5) degree angle in strips of 7/8 to 1 inch wide. The ends of the strips shall be seamed together.

Replacement of defective components During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components with material defects or damages that are classified as defects in 4.4.3 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

Fusing – (Waistband) Position fusible interlining to underside of outer ply of all waistband pieces and fuse in accordance with the directions of the fusible manufacturer.

Shade and size marking.

All parts shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade, size and proper assembly throughout the garment, except those parts cut from ends which shall be a good match to the shade of the trousers.

SSa-1

10-12

TABLE IV – Construction of slacks, cn’d

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

5.

6.

Edge finishing

a. Raw edges of the inside lower edge of waistband, curved edge of fly, inside broadfall, Gusset and Gusset Facing shall be bound. The binding shall finish 3/16 to 1/4 inch wide. Inside lower edge of waistband may be finished as one piece, see operation 10.c.

b. As an alternate Gusset and Gusset Facing may be overedged.

c. Overedge inseams, outseams, front and back rise to step, center front, and leg bottoms.

d. Extreme caution should be taken to minimize fraying of the edges prior to finishing. Patterns do not provide allowance for trimming.

Make broadfall

a. Mark broadfall opening according to pattern marks on inside of Fronts. Position Broadfall Facing to Front, face to face, according to marks on pattern, with tops aligned, and all parts smooth and flat.

b. Stitch 1/8 inch from raw edge of the broadfall opening, according to stitch line marks on pattern, stopping stitching even with the bottom of opening and backstitch.

c. Turn Broadfall Facing to finished position.

d. Place Broadfall Backing to Broadfall Facing, face to face, matching notch to broadfall opening and bind around sides and bottom edges, making sure broadfall assembly lies flat and smooth.

e. Double needle topstitch broadfall opening sides through all plies, 1/16 inch from the folded edge, stopping even with the bottom of opening and backstitch. Ends of stitching shall be covered by crowtack stitching (operation 23.b).

The Broadfall Facing shall not be exposed on face side. The opening shall be evenly spaced.

No more than 1/4 inch gap shall be permitted.

301 or

503 or 504 or

BSc-1

EFd-1

SSv-1

SSv-2

12-14

8-10

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

7.

8.

Broadfall “V” stitching

a. Place broadfall “V” template on front, aligning top of broadfall “V” template with raw edge of waist, while aligning with slit opening on template, in accordance with pattern marks.

Mark outside line to establish outer row of the double needle topstitching.

b. Double needle stitch around marked line uniformly through all plies (front and broadfall assembly). Start stitching from outer edge at top of slacks following line to the front slide fastener opening. The stitching shall form a uniform “V” centered under the slit opening. The distance between the bottom of the slit opening to the outside line of stitching at the point of the “V” shall measure 1-1/4 (±1/8) inches for sizes 4-6 and 1-1/2 (±1/8) inches for sizes 8-26.

c. The double needle stitching shall be straight, evenly gauged 1/4 (±1/16) inch and corners squared with no thread floats. Left and right sides of broadfall “V” stitching shall be identical and align to center front.

Mark and sew broadfall buttonholes

a. Broadfall buttonholes shall be marked and positioned as indicated by Buttonhole template.

The eyelet end of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the finished edges of broadfall slit opening and waistband joining seam, when measured from center of the eyelet.

b. All 12 buttonholes shall be non-functional 3/4 inch long, with the stitching securely caught in the fabric.

c. The ends of all buttonholes shall be bartacked by machine securely catching ends of gimp and covering the width of the bar.

Btnhl

Brtck

SSv-2

45 -50 per btnhl

21 per brtck (min)

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

PER INCH

9. Make, attach front pockets and combination label

a. Overedge the bottom raw edge of pocket facing.

b. Place raw edge of pocket facing to un-notched edge of pocket and stitch 1/4 inch from overedged edge of facing.

c. Edgestitch a combination label on all four sides with label centered on underside of right front pocket. Top edge of label shall be 3-1/2 (± 1/2) inches from bottom finished edge of pocket.

Label shall face the wearer when worn.

d. Stitch pocket opening to top edge of front, face to face, matching notches. Clip notches the depth of the seam allowance, turn to underside and double needle stitch across the pocket opening.

e. Fold pockets in half upwards, matching raw edges of waistline, and stitch and overedge stitch sides, to close pocket bag. This operation may be accomplished by two separate operations or simultaneously.

f. Continue bottom row of stitching from pocket opening across to center front.

g. The finished pocket measurements for the applicable slack sizes shall be as follows:

Sizes 4 to 8 Opening – 4-1/4 (± 1/4) inches Depth – 6 (± 1/4) inches or and 503 or 504 or or 515 or 516 or

LSbj-1

SSe-3

SSa-2

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

Cn’d

10.

11.

Make, attach front pockets and combination label, Cn’d

Sizes 10 to 26 Opening – 5-1/4 (± 1/4) inches Depth – 6 (± 1/4) inches

Attach hanger loops

a. The hanger loops shall be positioned at waistline forward of the side seams on front leg panels. The loops shall be folded in half and stay stitched in place.

OR

b. The hanger loop may be attached during operation 15a. and need not be stay stitched.

c. The finished hanger loop shall have a 1-1/4 (± 1/4) inch free opening.

Construct waistband assemblies

a. Tack or stay stitch Gusset Facing to outer Back Waistband at center back, face to face, matching notches, with a 3/16 inch seam allowance to maintain proper position.

Stitching shall not extend into waist attachment seam allowance at bottom of waistband.

b. Stitch Front Waistband to Back Waistband (right and left) at the side seams, face to face matching notches, making the inner and outer waistband assemblies.

c. Bind lower edge of left inner Waistband.

Bind lower edge of right inner Waistband stopping at center front notch at waistband extension.

d. Stitch right waistband assembly (inner and outer plies) face sides together starting at center front notch across the bottom edge of the waistband extension, up front end of waistband tack

SSe-2(a)

BSc-1

3-6

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

12.

13.

14.

Construct waistband assemblies, Cn’d and across the top with 1/4 (±1/16) inch seam allowance, catching top of gusset facing between the inner and outer waistbands.

e. Stitch left waistband assembly (inner and outer plies) face sides together, stitching with 1/4 (±1/16) inch seam allowance, up front end of waistband and continue across top edge of waistband catching top of gusset facing between the inner and outer waistbands.

f. Turn waistbands right side out, forcing out edges and center front corners on waistband assemblies.

Make darts The darts shall be tapered on the inside without twists or puckers.

a. Fold and stitch darts as indicated by notches and drill holes. Drill holes shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks.

When using drill holes, they should be l/4 to 1/2 inch above bottom point of dart.

b. Press folded darts toward the center back respectively.

Join front rise Prepare fronts for slide fastener by stitching center front rise seam, face to face, 3/8 (± 1/16) inch from edge, from crotch to the step. Press seam open and flat.

Attach fly and slide fastener to front

a. Position slide fastener tape face side up 1/4 inch from binding on curved edge of fly and stitch from fly notch up to the top of fly, 1/4 inch from edge slide fastener tape. This establishes the left fly assembly.

Osf-1

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

15.

Attach fly and slide fastener to front, Cn’d

b. Turn under center front seam allowance 1 (±1/16) inch uniformly, as marked on pattern.

c. Position slide fastener at center front opening having chain even with the folded edges of the opening, forming welt over chain, placing bottom stop even with step on front rise and catching slide fastener into waistband seam.

d. Stitch the folded edges of the opening, starting at the left side top of the slack 5/16 (±1/16) inch from the edge. At 1 inch below the slide fastener opening taper from 5/16 (±1/16) inch to 3/16 (±1/16) inch from the center front seam and stitch continuously to the bottom of the crotch seam. Seam allowance shall be caught in front rise topstitching. Move fly and repeat previous steps in reverse order for the right side.

e. Stitch a bartack 3/8 inch below bottom stop, across the crotch seam to cover the slide fastener attachment stitching.

f. The slide fastener chain shall not be visible on the outside of the finished slacks when closed.

The folds of the opening shall meet at the center front without overlapping and shall finish smooth and flat without distortion.

g. Stitch a 3/8 inch bartack at end of inside fly (to relieve tension) through fly and right front seam allowance, with a bartack parallel to the center front, 1 inch above base of fly.

Join outseams Stitch outseams 3/8 inch from the edge matching notches as indicated on pattern. Press seam open and flat.

LSb-1

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

16.

17.

Attach waistband

a. Stitch lower edge of outer waistband to front and back panels matching notches, 3/8 inch from edge, securely catching pockets, pocket facings, and hanger loops in the seams. Gusset facing shall not be caught in stitching. Turn waistband seam allowance up into waistband.

b. Starting at the top of the center back waistband, stitch gusset facing/waistband assembly to center back seam, face to face, along the length of gusset facing, 1/4 inch from edge.

Finishing waistband and attach size label

a. Edgestitch each waistband top and sides including right front end of extension, left front end and down center back opening from top of waistband to bottom of gusset facing.

b. Edgestitch waistband joining seam (with seam allowance and binding ends turned up into waistband and front opening seam allowances turned inside), catching the inner waistband;

extending edgestitching to end of the right front waistband extension.

c. Stitch top edge of size label to the lower edge of the inner waistband above the left front pocket. The ends of the stitching need not be tacked provided the stitching extends at least 1/2 inch beyond each side of label. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

d. Finished width of waistband shall measure 1-3/8 (± 1/8) inches.

e. Finished length of waistband extension shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/8) inches.

SSe-2(b)

Smlr to SSq-2(b)

LSa-1

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

18.

19.

Make eyelets on back opening

a. Circular type, 3/16 inch (inside diameter) eyelets shall be positioned on both sides of the back opening as indicated below. The purling shall be on the inside.

b. Waistband eyelets, top eyelet, 1/2 inch from side at the center of waistband, (see Figures 3 and 4).

c. Gusset eyelets, the first eyelet shall be 3/8 inch down from waistband joining seam. Eyelets shall be 1/2 inch from side edges and 9/16 inch apart. The number of eyelets listed below indicates the number on each side of opening (excluding waistband) for applicable slack sizes:

Sizes Number of eyelets/side 4 thru 6 4 8 thru 10 5 12 thru 26 6

d. Measurement for placement of eyelets shall be taken from center of eyelet, with a ± 1/16 inch tolerance.

e. Clean all eyelets of loose thread and fabric.

Join backs

a. Turn gusset facing/waistband assembly to finished position so when closing seat seam, the gusset facing shall be flipped out away from seat seam. When closing seat seam the step shall be behind gusset facing seam.

b. Join the two back pieces, face to face, with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. Stitch seat seam from crotch to bottom of back opening at the step. Press seams open and flat.

Eyelet

22 per eyelet (min)

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

20.

21.

Topstitch seat seam

a. Topstitch seat seam with 2 rows of stitching, 3/8 inch gauge, centered evenly over crotch seam from bottom back tack of gusset to bottom of front slide fastener.

b. Topstitching shall match and align with the stitch lines on the left and right slide fastener welt opening.

Attach gusset piece (back opening)

a. Fold top of gusset to underside 3/8 (± 1/8) inch and double needle stitch turned edge, 1/4 inch gauge.

b. Top of gusset piece shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch below top of waistband and bottom point 1-1/2 (± 1/4) inches below the end of the back opening. The distance between the ends of the waistband at top of the gusset shall measure 1 (+ 1/4, - 0) inch. Place Gusset “V” template at top of finished gusset and mark outside line to establish outer row of the double needle topstitching.

Place gusset piece across back opening on underside with edge of gusset overlapping edge of facing 1/16 to 1/8 inch and double needle stitch to back edge of facings through back forming a uniform “V” across seat seam according to Gusset “V” template.

c. The point of the design “V” stitch shall be centered on the seat seam.

d. Finished width of gusset piece at top for applicable slack sizes shall measure:

Sizes 4 thru 8 – 4-5/8 (± 1/4) inches Sizes 10 thru 12 – 5 (± 1/4) inches Sizes 14 thru 26 – 5-1/2 (± 1/4) inches

EFa-2

Smlr LSa-2

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

22.

23.

24.

25.

Join inseam

a. Stitch inseam 3/8 inch from the edge matching notches at the knee as indicated on pattern.

Press seam open and flat.

Mark and sew right waistband buttonhole

a. Buttonhole shall be marked and positioned on the right waistband extension. Buttonhole shall be positioned horizontally at the center of waistband, 1/2 (+1/8) inch from the finished front edge. All thread ends shall be trimmed and buttonholes cleaned.

Sew bartacks and crowtacks

a. Stitch 1/2 inch long vertical bartacks at each end of the pocket openings, extending across the double needle stitching to the edge of the waistband joining seam.

b. Make a crowtack at the bottom of each side of broadfall opening and one at the bottom of gusset back opening. The center ray shall point downward and align vertically with the opening.

The opposite rays shall point horizontally.

c. The crowtack shall be executed in accordance with stitch enlargement number 01-NCTRF-15 and shall completely cover the prescribed background design area in a close, dense, and tightly drawn manner to produce a clear, sharp execution of the design with no background cloth visible. No damages or repairs of crowtacks shall be permitted on slack.

Attach buttons.

a. For all buttons the crown on the anchor shall point downward. The stitching shall follow the sewing guide grooves of the buttons. All stitches shall be in the button’s grooves (vertical when worn) except for the cross-over stitch.

Btnhl

Crow-

45-50 per btnhl

28 per

See 01-

NCTRF-15

20-22 per btn

14-16 per

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

26.

Attach buttons, Cn’d

b. Twelve (12) buttons shall be stitched on top of nonfunctioning buttonholes through all layers of faux broadfall and facing, in alignment with the eyelet ends of the buttonholes. The thirteenth button shall be sewn to the right side of the slide fastener opening, through all plies, on the slide fastener stitching, and shall be in horizontal alignment with the top buttons of the faux broadfall.

All thirteen (13) buttons shall be tacked flat with no shank wrapping, through all plies of material without catching the pockets or interfering with slide fastener.

c. One (1) button shall be sewn through all plies of material on left waistband in alignment with the buttonhole on right waistband. The button shall have the thread tightly wrapped not less than four times around to form a 1/8 to 3/16 inch shank. Thread ends on button shall be hidden and securely tied off with not less than 2 stitch.

Cleaning, pressing, lacing, finishing and stitch removable size ticket.

a. Remove all shade tickets.

b. Remove all spots, stains and lint formation.

c. Trim thread ends and remove all loose ends of thread both inside and outside.

d. Insert laces into one bottom eyelet of back opening and secure with single knot.

e. Button waistband button and close slide fastener and press top of slacks.

Btn

SEAM/

STCH TYPE

STCH

27.

Cleaning, pressing, lacing, finishing and stitch removable size ticket, Cn’d

f. Turn slacks inside out. Press to form a crease on inner and outer legs neatly. The crease on the inner leg shall be along the back side of the overedge stitching and shall be on the back part of the leg.

g. Remove gloss and impressions.

h. Attach removable size ticket to outside of waistband, centered on the left back part of the leg.

i. Attach combination ticket/label above the left front pocket on waistband.

(1). Care shall be taken when trimming thread ends that damage to the fabric does not occur.

(2). When buck pressing, apply vacuum only after unlocking. When automatic press is used, apply bottom steam and dry only.

(3). If impressions and gloss occur, the buck may be lowered in that area without locking, and the garments may be steamed and dried.

Folding.

Each pair of slacks, turned inside out, shall be folded as follows:

a. Fold slacks in half lengthwise with the seat seam/inseam intersection tucked inside forming straight lines on the inseams and outseams.

b. Fold slacks in thirds across the length so the folded dimension as approximately 11-1/2 inches by 15 inches. For the longer slacks lengths it may be necessary to fold up the bottom of the slack legs 4 to 8 inches before folding slacks into thirds.

2-4 per

6-8 per tack

2-4 per tack 6-8 per

3.12 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished slacks shall be as shown in Table V when measured as in 4.4.4. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE V – Finished measurements

Waist

(A) Hip

(B) Leg Opening

(C) Size Juniors Misses Womens

4 26-1/2 35-3/4 37-1/2 39-1/2 20-1/4 6 27-1/2 36-3/4 38-1/2 40-1/2 20-1/2 8 28-1/2 37-3/4 39-1/2 41-1/2 20-3/4 10 30 39-1/4 41 43 21 12 31-1/2 40-3/4 42-1/2 44-1/2 21-1/4 14 33 42-1/4 44 46 21-1/2 16 35 44-1/4 46 48 21-3/4 18 37 46-1/4 48 50 22 20 39 48-1/4 50 52 22-1/4 22 41 50-1/4 52 54 22-1/2 24 43 52-1/4 54 56 22-3/4 26 45 54-1/4 56 58 23

Tol. + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2

Inseam (D)

Size Extra Petite Petite Regular Tall Extra

Tall 4 through 26 30 32 34 37 39

Tol. + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2

3.13 Workmanship. The finished slacks shall conform to the quality of the product established by this document. As a final step in the contractor’s quality control plan before formation of a lot, each pair of finished slacks shall be examined after pressing and folding for packaging. Selected defects are those defects listed in MIL-STD-656 and section 4.4.3. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value of defect limit.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article inspections shall consists of the examinations and tests specified in 4.4.2 through 4.4.4 shall be inspected for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, appearance, and dimensional requirements specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless other specified, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample shall be one finished slack. The lot size shall be expressed in units of slacks.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations specified in 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-656. The sample shall be one finished pair of slacks. The lot size shall be expressed in units of slacks. Slacks shall be evaluated as dress (D) under MIL-STD-656.

4.3.1.1 Conformance inspection samples for lace. Sampling for conformance for width and length of the laces shall be performed as stated below. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the sample unit shall one lace. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more laces fail to meet any length or width requirements specified. See paragraph 3.2.9.

Lot size (laces) Sample size (of sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

4.4. Inspection methods.

4.4.1 In-process examination.

Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified in Section 3. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished slacks shall be classified as a defect in accordance with this document.

4.4.2 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.3, components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests of Table VI.

TABLE VI. Component and material verification

Material Characteristic Requirement Verification 1/ Basic material All 3.2.1 MIL-DTL-823 Pocketing/Linings All 3.2.2 A-A-52106 Thread, polyester All 3.2.4.1 A-A-50199 Thread, cotton (alt) Material identification 3.2.4.2 A-A-52094 Thread, nylon Material identification 3.2.4.3 AATCC 20A

Shade 4/ 3.2.4.2 Visual Break strength 3.2.4.3 ASTM D204 Length per pound 3.2.4.3 ASTM 1907 Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.4.3 AATCC 16.3 Opt 3 2/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.4.3 AATCC 132 3/ Perspiration 3.2.4.3 AATCC 15 3/ Thread, crowtack All 3.2.4.4 A-A-52094 Thread, gimp All 3.2.4.5 A-A-50198

Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.4.7.1 AATCC 16.3 Opt 3 2/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.4.7.1 AATCC 132 3/ Perspiration 3.2.4.7.1 AATCC 15 3/ Buttons All 3.2.5 MIL-B-17143 Binding All 3.2.6 MIL-C-21852 Tape All 3.2.7 A-A-52071 Slide Fastener All 3.2.8 A-A-55634 Lace Material identification 3.2.9

Shade 4/ 3.2.9 Visual Yarn:

Continuous filament 3.2.9 Visual 4/ Fiber Size 3.2.9 AATCC 20A Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.9 AATCC 16.3 Opt 3 5/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.9 AATCC 132 3/ Perspiration 3.2.9 AATCC 15 3/ Braid: 3.2.9 Warp and Fill Count 3.2.9 ASTM D 3775 Weight 3.2.9 ASTM D 3776 Opt D Break Strength 3.2.9 ASTM D 6775 Length 3.2.9 6/ Width 3.2.9 7/ Plastic Tips 3.2.9 Visual 8/ Labels Material identification 3.2.10 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ When end item document is cited, all requirements and test methods listed in applicable end item document shall be performed

2/ The specimen shall be exposed to Option 3 for 170 Kilojoules. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedures 1 and 2. Only the stain on the cotton fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

4/ One specific (lace, spool, etc.) shall be evaluated for conformance. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

5/ The specimen shall be exposed to Option 3 for 170 Kilojoules. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.

6/ Length test. The finished laces shall not be stretched or placed under tension, prior to the length test. The finished lace shall be suspended vertically under a load of 3 ounces. Then measure the lace from end to end, including tips. Results shall be reported as pass or fail.

7/ Width test. The finished lace width shall be determined at three points at least 9 inches apart on each specimen in the sample unit. The measurements shall be taken by steel ruler graduated in thirty-seconds of an inch or by a caliper-type gauge. Measurements shall be taken with the specimen suspended vertically under a load of 3 ounces. The results of all determinations on the sample unit shall be averaged and reported to the nearest 1/32 inch. Results shall be reported as pass or fail.

8/ A pair of plastic tips shall be dimensional and visually inspected for conformance. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The slacks shall be examined for defects in shade, design, material, components, construction and workmanship and the defects classified in accordance with the provisions for (D) slacks in MIL-STD-656 and in accordance with the list of defects specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII. – Defects

Defects Point Value

1. BUTTONS

a. Shank wrapping omitted or not trimmed to less than 1/4 inch (waistband button only).

b. Not aligned or misplaced with faux buttonholes:

1. Less than three buttons

2. More than three but less than six buttons

3. Six or more buttons

c. Bottom of anchor not pointing downward.

d. Button stitching (other than cross-over stitch) not in grooves.

TABLE VII. – Defects, continued

2. BUTTONHOLE

a. Buttonholes: Ragged edges (yarns or thread ends on inside of buttonhole not trimmed to less than 1/4 inch or basic fabric not caught by buttonhole stitching).

b. Faux buttonholes out of alignment with each other by more than 1/8 inch

c. Faux buttonholes not identical to each other

d. Faux buttonholes cut through

3. EYELETS

a. Not specified type or size, stitching incomplete, purling on wrong side, one or more broken or two or more skipped stitches.

b. Eyelet misplaced.

c. Fabric not completely cut from center of eyelet of two or more eyelets.

d. Thread not cut to within 1/4 inch on two or more eyelets.

e. Eyelet omitted

4. CROWTACKS

a. Missing, insecure, not positioned as specified, or not serving intended purpose.

b. One or more skipped or broken stitches.

1. in one crowtack

2. in two or more crowtacks

c. Crooked, i.e., opposite rays of crowtack deviate from vertical or horizontal axis, as applicable or causing distortion; any crowtack not smooth and flat or puckered.

d. Crowtacks set more than 1/16 inch away from bottom of gusset opening or broadfall point.

e. Incomplete cover, i.e., background cloth visible.

f. Bobbin threads visible, affecting appearance.

g. Any crowtack not in accordance with Drawing Number 01-NCTRF-15.

h. Any slack with damaged or repaired crowtacks.

5. BARTACK

a. Bartack extends over onto waistband joining seam.

b. Missing, insecure, not positioned as specified, or not serving intended purpose.

c. One or more skipped or broken stitches.

1. in one bartack

2. in two or more bartack

TABLE VII. – Defects, continued

6. GUSSET BACK OPENING

a. Gusset exposed above top edge of waistband.

b. Finished width of gusset at waistband not as specified.

c. Measurement of waistband opening over gusset, (from corner to corner) not as specified.

d. Gusset not overlapping gusset facing

e. Gusset overlapping gusset facing by more than 1/8 inch.

f. Point of design stitching not centered on seat seam.

7. BROADFALL

a. Top edge of broadfall 1/4 inch or more above or below the waistband joining seam.

b. Side opening of broadfall not uniformly spaced from top to bottom varying by more than 1/4 inch.

c.…