Atch 1_CRFDPD 04-08E IPTU-Jacket-131013.pdf
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- Attached to
- US Air Force Academy LGRC Running Jackets Federal contract opportunity
- Solicitation number
- FA700024Q0110
About this file
This document is a Purchase Description for the Improved Physical Training Uniform (IPTU) jacket used by the U.S. Air Force. It covers the requirements for the jacket, including the design, materials, and physical properties. The jacket is classified into various sizes and lengths, and a first article or pilot lot sample may be required for inspection. The basic material is a 100% polyester Air Force Shade Blue 1651 fabric with water, oil, and soil resistance and moisture management properties. The lining is a white 100% polyester mini-mesh fabric with moisture management, antimicrobial, and antistatic properties. The jacket features a full-front opening, raglan sleeves, two welt pockets, and reflective striping. The document references applicable government and industry standards for testing and evaluation of the fabric and garment.
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Other files for this federal contract opportunity
| File | Type | Posted |
|---|---|---|
| FA700024Q0110 Combined Synopsis Solicitation - FY24 Running Jackets_Amendment 1.pdf | ||
| FA700024Q0110 Combined Synopsis Solicitation - FY24 Running Jackets.pdf | ||
| Atch 2_LOE CRFD-PD 04-08D IPTU Jacket-180126.pdf | ||
| Atch 4_FA700024Q0110 Provisions and Clauses.pdf | ||
| Atch 3_Jacket Running sizes FY 24.xlsx | XLSX spreadsheet | |
| Atch 5_DFARS 252.225-7000 Buy American - Balance of Payments Program Certificate.pdf |
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Text version
INCH-POUND
CRFD/ PD 04-08E
13 October 2013
SUPERSEDES
CRFD/ PD 04-08D
30 September 2010
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
JACKET, IMPROVED, PHYSICAL TRAINING UNIFORM
Prepared by
AFLCMC/WNU
1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017
APPROVED FOR USE BY:
Date:
WILLIAM A. MCGUFFEY, COLONEL, USAF
Chief, Human Systems Division
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
CRFD/PD 04-08E
INCH-POUND
CRFD/ PD 04-08E
13 October 2013
SUPERSEDES
CRFD/ PD 04-08D
30 September 2010
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
JACKET, IMPROVED, PHYSICAL TRAINING UNIFORM
Prepared by
AFLCMC/WNUV
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to
AFLCMC/WNUV, AFUO, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605.
This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
1 SCOPE
1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Improved Physical
Training Uniform (IPTU) jacket.
1.2 Classification. The jacket is of one type in the following sizes and lengths, as specified (see
6.2):
SCHEDULE OF SIZES
X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long
XX-Small XX-Small XX-Small ‒ ‒
X-Small X-Small X-Small X-Small X-Small
Small Small Small Small Small
Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium
Large Large Large Large Large
X-Large X-Large X-Large X-Large X-Large
XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large
XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large
XXXX-Large XXXX-Large XXXX-Large XXXX-Large XXXX-Large
2 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of the document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this document, whether or not they are listed.
2.2 Government documents.
2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
A-A 50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered
A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)
A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles
(Copies of the above documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ or from the
Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 4/D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-
5094.)
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents that are
Department of Defense adopted are those listed in the solicitation or contract.
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
Technical Manual – Test Methods
AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light
AATCC 20 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative
AATCC 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative
AATCC-22 Water Repellency: Spray Test
AATCC-61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
AATCC 88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
AATCC-100 Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials
AATCC-115 Electrostatic Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal Test
AATCC-118 Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test
AATCC-135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering
Technical Manual Evaluation Procedures
AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining
(Copies of AATCC Technical Manuals are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or from the
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)
AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY
(ANSI/ASQ)
ANSI/ASQ-Z 1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or http://www.ansi.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 N. Plankinton Ave., Milwaukee, WI 53203 or from the
American National Standards Institute, 25 West 43rd St., 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036.)
THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)/INTERNATIONAL SAFETY
EQUIPMENT ASSOCIATION (ISEA)
ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear
(Application for copies of ANSI/ISEA 107 is available online at www.ansi.org or should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1189 L St. NW, 11th floor, Washington, DC 20036.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
ASTM D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
ASTM D3775/D3775M Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) of
Woven Fabric (DoD Adopted)
ASTM D3776/D3776M Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight)
(Small Swatch of Fabric)
ASTM D3787 Standard Test Method for Testing Bursting Strength of
Textiles – Constant-Rate-Of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
ASTM E96 Standard Test Method for Water Vapor Transmission of
Materials
ASTM E2149 Standard Test Method for Determining the Antimicrobial
Activity of Immobilized Antimicrobial Agents Under Dynamic
Contact Conditions
ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)
(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr
Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)
2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3 REQUIREMENTS
3.1 First article/pilot lot. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.
3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.
3.3 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.
3.4 Design description. The design is a jacket with full front opening slide fastener, raglan-styled long sleeves, collar, two (2) welt pockets with hidden slide fasteners, and elastic at the wrists and jacket bottom (see Figure 3). The jacket shall have a dart at top of sleeve on shoulder. The jacket shall be trimmed with colorized reflective material forming a V-stripe from armhole to armhole across the front and across the width of both sleeves and a V-stripe across the back. All V-striping shall be bordered on top and bottom with piping.
3.5 Materials.
3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the jacket shall be 100% polyester Air Force Shade
Blue 1651. The material shall have a finish treatment for water, oil, and soil resistance and quick-drying moisture/management capability. The material shall conform to the requirements in Table I.
TABLE I. Physical requirements, basic fabric.
Characteristic Requirement
Fiber Content 100% Polyester
Weight (oz/sq yd) 2.2 (±0.3)
Yarns per inch (min)
Warp
Filling
Breaking strength (lbs min)
Tearing strength (lbs min)
1.5
2.0
Water Repellency: Spray Test
Initial
After 10 laundering 1/
Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test
After 10 launderings 1/
A
Moisture Vapor Transfer
Inverted (BW Test Method)
Upright (B Test Method)
8000 min
850 min
Dimensional Stability (after 5 launderings)
Fill
2.5
2.5
Colorfastness to Crocking (min)
Wet
Dry
3.5
4.0
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Acid
Alkaline
Colorfastness to Laundering
Shade Change
Staining (Nylon)
3.5
TABLE I. Physical requirements, basic fabric.
Characteristic Requirement
* Water Repellency: Spray Test
100 launderings
Performed once (see * below)
* Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance
Test
100 launderings
Initial
Performed once (see * below)
A
A
A
A
A
A
B
B
B
* One time initial testing to be performed at the beginning of the production contract only
3.6 Lining. The lining for the jacket shall be white 100% polyester mini-mesh fabric with moisture management and anti-microbial properties and anti-static finishing. The material shall conform to the requirements in Table II.
TABLE II. Physical requirements, lining fabric.
Characteristic Requirement
Fiber Content 100% Polyester
Weight (oz/sq yd) 3.0 (±0.3)
Courses, meshes per inch (min)
Wales, meshes per inch (min)
Bursting strength (lbs min) 95
3.5.1
3.5.2
TABLE II. Physical requirements, lining fabric- Continued.
Characteristic Requirement
Dimensional Stability (max) after 15
Launderings
Knit material only
Courses
Wales
6%
5%
Anti-Static (Ironing Temperature)
Cling time
Class III
<125 seconds
Drying Time (max) 30 minutes
Moisture Wicking (max) 15 cm/30 min
Moisture Vapor Transmission
Upright (min) (B Test Method)
3500g/m2/24 hour, initial
Anti- Microbial (lining only)
Migratory (initial)
Migratory (after 25 launderings)
Non-migratory (initial)
Non- migratory (after 25 launderings)
Log 3 or better/99.0%
Log 3 or better/99.0%
Log 2 or better/99.0% min
Log 2 or better/99.0% min
3.7 Components.
3.7.1 Reflective material. The reflective trim shall be Air Force Shade Gray 1655, produced using a glass-beaded reflective material. The reflective material shall be 2 inches (± 1/8) in finished width. Edges shall be turned under 1/4 inch and attached to piping.
3.7.2 Performance. The performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance to the ANSI/ISEA 107. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements followed by physical testing including abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have an initial level of reflectivity 300–500 cd/lux/m2 at observation angle 12′ (arc minutes) and entrance angle 5° (degrees). The reflective material shall show no signs of delaminating or peeling and shall have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 at observation angle
12′ (arc minutes) and entrance angle 5° (degrees) after 25 wash cycles in accordance with
AATCC 135 (3), (III), (A) iii. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted (see 4.9).
3.7.3 Piping. The piping shall be optic white polyester or nylon woven material. The piping material shall be bias cut, unfilled, and have a finished width of 1/4 inch. The weight for the piping material shall be 3.5 – 5.0 oz per yd2.
3.7.4 Pocket lining. The material for the front welt pocket lining shall be black, 100% polyester or polyester/nylon, lightweight (3.0 – 4.0 ounces) brushed fabric, machine washable and dryable.
3.7.5 Embroidery description. The embroidered Wing symbol and “U.S. AIR FORCE” text shall be placed on the left front (see Figure 1). Placement instructions are for cut pieces. For vertical placement, the bottom of the embroidery shall measure 1/2 the distance between the neck edge and the top notch of the reflective stripe placement at center front. The horizontal placement of the embroidery shall be 1/2 the distance from the center front to the top notch of the reflective stripe placement at the sleeve setting seam, plus one (1) inch toward center front. The letter “E” of the word “FORCE” shall be no closer than 1/4 inch from the piping of the top of the V-stripe. The Air Force symbol shall be embroidered in a polyester thread conforming to DoD Standard Shades for Heraldic Yarn for Embroidery and Ribbons, Cable # HA White 67101 with a stiff embroidery backing. The embroidery backing shall be a nonwoven trimmed to 1/2 inch to 1 inch around the design. The total stitch count of the symbol and lettering shall be 4,631stitches minimum. The Wing symbol is to fit within a 2 inch by 2 1/8 inch square. There shall be a 1/4 inch space between the symbol’s lowest point and the top of the “U.S. AIR FORCE” text (see Figure 2). The “U.S. AIR FORCE” text shall be 1/4 inch high, 3 1/4 inches long, and the font is Berthord Aklindenz Grotesk bold extended (see Figure 2). If Berthord Aklindenz Grotesk is not available, all capital Arial bold font, 24 point shall be used. All thread ends that are visible on the item shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch. Air Force trademark available at http://www.trademark.af.mil/symbol/embroidery/index.asp.
3.7.6 Finished embroidery. The finished embroidery shall meet the requirements of this purchase description for size, stitch count, and finished appearance (see 3.7.5). The total stitch count of the symbol and text shall be 4,631 stitches minimum.
3.7.7 Elastic. All elastic for the jacket shall be white in color and machine washable and dryable.
3.7.7.1 Waist. The knitted elastic for the jacket waist shall have width of 1 1/2 inches. Its warps shall be 22 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 22. The filler shall be 7 ends 1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 22 ends 30 gauge rubber.
The number of finished picks per inch shall be 53. The elongation of the elastic shall be
160% (±10%) with a load range at room temperature from 5 – 7 lbs. The needle width shall be 22 needles.
3.7.7.2 Cuffs. The knitted elastic for the wrist shall have a width of 1 inch. Its warps shall be 15 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 15. The filler shall be 7 ends
1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 15 ends 30 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 52. The elongation of the elastic shall be 160%
(±10%) with a load range at room temperature from 3 – 5.5 lbs. The needle width shall be
15 needles.
3.7.8 Slide fasteners. The teeth, tape, slider, stops, and pull of all slide fasteners shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Blue 1651 basic material. The slide fastener for the jacket front closure shall be a separating, single-pull slide fastener and shall have plastic individual-element teeth, conforming to A-A-55634, type III, size 3, with a 68-pound (min) crosswise breaking strength. The slide fasteners shall have a single locking slider. The front welt pocket slide fasteners shall be closed top and bottom, single pull, and shall have plastic individual-element teeth, conforming to A-A-55634, type III, size 3. The dyed tape shall show a colorfastness rating of 3.5 to laundering when evaluated using the AATCC EP 1, gray scale for color change and the AATCC EP 2, gray scale for staining.
TABLE III. Slide Fastener measurements, jacket (inches).
Measurements, Slide Fasteners XXS XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL
Tolerance
Front slide fastener, x-short 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 N/A N/A ±1/8
Pocket slide fastener, x-short 6 6 6 7 7 7 8 N/A N/A ± 1/8
Front slide fastener, short 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 N/A N/A ±1/8
Pocket slide fastener, short 6 6 6 7 7 7 8 N/A N/A ±1/8
Front slide fastener, regular 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 30 30 ±1/8
Pocket slide fastener, regular 6 6 6 7 7 7 8 8 8 ±1/8
Front slide fastener, long ‒ 26 27 28 29 30 31 31 31 ±1/8
Pocket slide fastener, long ‒ 6 6 7 7 7 8 8 8 ±1/8
Front slide fastener, x-long ‒ 27 28 29 30 31 32 32 32 ±1/8
Pocket slide fastener, x-long ‒ 6 6 7 7 7 8 8 8 ±1/8
3.7.9 Thread. The thread for the needle and bobbin shall be Tex 30 polyester wrap, polyester core conforming to A-A-50199, Type II. The looper thread shall be Tex 24 textured nylon conforming to A-A-59826, Type VI, Class A. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the Air Force Shade Blue 1651 except for the topstitching on the gray reflective, which shall be a good match to the Air Force Shade Gray 1655. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used on commercial threads. All dyed thread shall show a rating of 4 for colorfastness to light, laundry, and dry-cleaning when evaluated using the AATCC EP 1, gray scale for color change and AATCC EP 2, gray scale for staining.
3.7.10 Fusible Interlining: Both welt pockets and top collar shall have fusible interlining, conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 1, Style B. Instructions for the temperature, dwell time, and pressure shall be provided by fusible manufacturer.
3.8 Appearance of seams. Puckered seams shall be examined in comparison with AATCC
88B. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be in accordance with AATCC 88B.
3.9 Labels. A commercial type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the contractor’s name, contract number, size, and National Stock Number (NSN) is sewn in with the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information, as noted below. The label shall have good colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC-61.The label shall show a colorfastness rating of 3.5 when evaluated using the AATCC EP 1, gray scale for color change and the
AATCC EP 2, gray scale for staining. The commercial label shall be stitched 1 inch below collar seam at center back and shall be stitched on all four (4) sides and only stitched through the lining, not the outer shell. An additional 2 inch by 3 inch white, blank rectangular label shall be sewn on all four sides into the right front pocket. The commercial label shall have the following text:
3.11 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate that has a basis weight of
100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be medium to high density.
The barcode for NSN and UPC shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so the tag causes no damage to the item. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.
3.12 DLA Hang tag. The advertising hang tag shall be attached to the jacket so that it is visible when packaged or hung. The attachment of the hang tag shall cause no damage to the jacket. A sample of the hang tag may be obtained from the contracting activity.
3.13 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, notches, and placement of pockets for the proper assembling of the parts of the jacket will be furnished by the procuring activity (see 6.2). The standard patterns (see Table IV) shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns will be identical to the
Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall
MACHINE WASH COLD
MILD DETERGENT
COLD RINSE
TUMBLE DRY LOW
DO NOT USE BLEACH
DO NOT IRON
DO NOT USE FABRIC
SOFTENER OR FABRIC
SOFTENER SHEETS
not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements. The patterns shall provide seam allowances as follows:
1/4 inch –For making pocket flaps, setting pocket flaps, making collar, setting collar, applying slide fastener to outershell, and piping
1/2 inch ‒For all other seams
3.13.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table IV.
TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.
Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Name Cut Parts
Outershell Front Body FRONT 2
Back Body BACK 1
Sleeve SLEEVE 2
Collar COLLAR 2
Pocket Welt WELT 2
Pocketing Top Pocket TPKT 2
Bottom Pocket BPKT 2
Mesh Lining Front Lining FLIN 2
Back Lining BLIN 1
Sleeve Lining SLVLIN 2
Fusible Collar COLLAR 1
Pocket Welt WELT 2
3.14 Stitches and seams. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to the ASTM-D6193. Where two (2) or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly.
Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the jacket. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.
3.14.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.
Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded to the materials sewn.
3.14.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:
a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. When making the repair, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.
b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or runoff stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area; continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/
1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed.
CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.
3.14.2 Type 401, 502, 503, 504 and 505 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished jacket. All repairs shall be in accordance with
3.14.1.1 a and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.
Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch type 301.
3.14.3 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch type 401 may be repaired using stitch type 301.
3.14.4 Bartacks. Bartack length measurements vary depending on location. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.
3.14.5 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns provided the requirements to the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three (3) overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitches.
3.15 Sewing instructions. All stitching shall be between 10 and 12 stitches per inch, with the exception of waist and cuff elastic operations which shall be between 8 to 10 stitches per inch. All topstitching shall finish 1/16 inch from folded edge. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Seams required to be forced out, and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch and more, shall be considered a defect (see Table XI). All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4 inch.
(A) The stitching for the elastic at jacket bottom shall be two (2) rows; one (1) row shall measure 1/4 inch from bottom fold and the second row shall measure one
(1) inch from the first row of stitching.
(B) The stitching for the wrist elastic shall finish 7/8 inch from the bottom edge of sleeve.
(C) The two (2) front pockets shall each have a welt measuring 1 1/4 inches in width with a bartack at the top and bottom of each welt opening (bartacks shall be 3/8 inch unless otherwise specified).
(D) Both welts and top collar shall have fusible interlining, nonwoven thermal-bonded polyester fusible interlining.
(E) The collar and reflective trim shall be topstitched 1/16 inch from folded edge.
(F) The armhole seams shall be pressed towards shoulder dart and topstitched
1/16 inch from seam.
(G) The shoulder dart shall be pressed towards center front and topstitched 1/16 inch from dart seam.
(H) The slide fastener will be applied with exposed teeth to jacket center front. The topstitching shall finish 1/16 inch from folded edge.
(I) The reflective trim (see 3.7.1) shall be positioned in accordance to the location indicated on the pattern. The mitered seams of the 2 inch reflective and 1/4 inch white piping shall match.
(J) The piping shall be tacked down at the top and at the bottom of the “V” at center back.
(K) The collar shall have a finished width of 2 1/2 inches for all sizes at center back.
(L) The lining shall be tacked to the outershell at the underarm seam with white thread. Lining stitches shall be single needle lockstitch.
(M) Repairs, such as mends, darns, patches or splices, are not permitted on jackets. Each bartack shall contain between 18 and 24 stitches. After completion, the finished jackets shall be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter shall be removed.
TABLE V. Bartack placement.
Bartack Location Size of Tack Stitches per
Tack
# of
Bartacks
Total
Top of pocket welt 3/8" 18 - 24 1 2
Bottom of pocket welt
3/8" 18 - 24 1 2
Superimposed on top stitching line of elastic waist on both sides of slide fastener
3/8" 18 - 24 2 4
TABLE VI. Stitches/ Seams.
Seam Placement Seam Type Gauge Stitch Type
Side seams, sleeve seams (shell) SSa-1 1/2 inch gauge 301 or 401
Side seams, sleeve seams (lining) SSa-1 1/2 inch gauge 301 or 401
Collar, collar joining SSa-1 1/4 inch gauge 301 or 401
Attachment of labels LSbj-1 1/8 inch gauge 301
Attachment of center front slide fastener
LSbu-2 1/4 inch gauge 301
Attachment of welts LSbk-2 3/16 inch gauge 301
Top stitching of collar, sleeve seams, welts
OSf-1
1/inch from the edge
Top stitching of center front and pocket slide fasteners
OSf-1
1/16 inch from the edge
Assembly of piping and reflective SSk-1 1/4 inch gauge 301 or 401
Attachment of reflective assembly to body
LSd-1
1/16 inch from the edge
Attachment of elastic to bottom edge and sleeve cuffs
SSa-1
502, 503, 504, or 505
Topstitching of bottom waist elastic
EFq-2
First row, 1/4 inch from fold. Second row 1-1/4 inch from fold
301 or 401
Topstitching of sleeve cuff elastic EFq-1 7/8 inch from fold 301 or 401
3.16 Figures. Figures 1 through 3 are furnished for information purposes only. In the event of any inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.
4 VERIFICATION
4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:
a. First article inspection (see 4.2)
b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)
4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The first article and/or pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample size will be as specified and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-1488.
4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.
4.4 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable purchase document.
4.5 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in section 3 shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table VII shall be followed. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:
Lot size Sample size
800 or less 2
801 to 22,000 inclusive 3
22,001 or more 5
The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:
Component Lot size unit Sample unit
Cloth for waistband interlining 1/ yard 1/2 linear yard
1/ A certificate of compliance is acceptable for this requirement.
TABLE VII. Component tests.
Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method
Basic material
Fiber Content 3.5.1 AATCC20/20A
Weight (oz/sq yd) 3.5.1 ASTM D3776/3776M Option C
Yarns per inch (min)
Warp
ASTM D3775/3557M
Breaking strength (lbs min)
Warp
ASTM D5034
Tearing strength (lbs min)
Warp
ASTM D1424
Water Repellency: Spray Test
After 10 laundering 1/
AATCC 22
AATCC 135, Table I, (3), (III), (A) iii
TABLE VI. Component tests – Continued.
Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method
Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon
Resistance Test
Initial
After 10 launderings 1/
AATCC 118, #5 (n-dodecane)
Moisture Vapor Transfer
Inverted
Upright
3.5.1
ASTM E96
Test BW
Test B
Dimensional Stability (after 5 launderings)
Warp
Fill
Colorfastness to Crocking (min)
Wet
Dry
AATCC 8
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Acid
Alkaline
AATCC 15
Colorfastness to Laundering
Shade Change
Staining (Nylon)
AATCC 61-3A 4/ 5/ 6/
* Water Repellency: Spray Test
100 launderings
Initial
AATCC-22
* Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon
Resistance Test
100 launderings
Initial
AATCC-118
TABLE VI. Component tests – Continued.
Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method
Lining
Fiber Content 3.6 AATCC 20/20A
Weight (oz/sq yd) 3.6 ASTM D3776/3776M Option C
Courses, meshes per inch (min)
Wales, meshes per inch (min) 3.6
Visual 1/
Bursting strength (lbs min) 3.6 ASTM D3787
Dimensional Stability (max)
After 15 Launderings
Knit material only
Courses
Wales
AATCC 135 Table I, (3), (III), (A) iii
Anti-Static (Ironing
Temperature)
Cling time
3.6 AATCC 115
Drying Time (max) 3.6 Internal Natick Method 2/
Moisture Wicking (max) 3.6 Internal Natick Method 2/
Moisture Vapor Transmission
Upright (min)
ASTM E96 Test B
Anti- Microbial (lining only)
Migratory (initial)
Migratory (after 25 launderings)
Non-migratory (initial)
Non- migratory (after 25 launderings)
AATCC 100
AATCC 100
ASTM E2149
ASTM E2149
* One time initial testing to be performed at the beginning of the production contract only.
1/ Three (3) specimens in each direction per sample unit.
2/ Drying Time Test Method (see below test method and procedure).
3/ AATCC Standard Reference Detergent (non-phosphate) without optical brighteners shall be used.
4/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, gray scale for color change.
5/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, gray scale for staining.
Dry Time Test Specimens
1. Fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65% RH (±2%) and 21°C
(±1°C) (70°F (± 2°F)) for a minimum of four (4) hours before testing.
2. Test three (3) specimens from each sample. Each specimen consists of a 2" 2" piece cut wearing gloves. The long dimension should be cut parallel to warp direction. Mark each specimen for identification as a part of the sample set.
Dry Time Test Procedure
3. Weigh the conditioned sample using a laboratory balance, accurate to the 0.1 g.
4. Place 100 mls of distilled or reverse osmosis water into a 250 ml beaker.
5. Submerge one (1) specimen in the beaker for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged under the water to insure complete wetting.
6. Remove from the specimen and sandwich it between two (2) pieces of unused blotter paper and pass it through the wringer. Leave the piece sandwiched in the wet blotters. Repeat this process for the remaining two (2) specimens of the same sample.
7. Weigh the blotted specimens one (1) at a time.
8. Record the weight as wet weight.
9. Hang each sample separately to dry in a location that is in conditions of 65% RH (± 2%) and 21°C (±1°C) (70°F (± 2°F)).
10. Weigh the sample to the nearest 0.1g every five (5) minutes recording each weight, until completely dry.
11. This is repeated until all the specimens return to their original dry weight. At this time the overall drying time is calculated by averaging the dry time of all three (3) specimens, if they do not dry at the same time.
Notes:
The wringer, household laundry type, should be equipped with soft rubber squeeze rolls
5.1‒6.4 cm in diameter and 28.0–30.5 cm in length, with a hardness of 70-80 when measured using the A Scale of a Shore Durometer. The wringer should be so constructed that the pressure on the top of the piece of fabric is maintained by a dead weight or lever system such that the total pressure (resulting from the total of the dead weight or lever system and the weight of the roller) is 27.2 (± 0.5) kg. It should be power-driven at a constant rate so that the piece of fabric passes through the rolls at a rate of 2.5 cm/s. Also suitable is the Atlas Motorized Laboratory Wringer available from SDL Atlas L.L.C., 3934
Airway Drive, Rock Hill, S.C. 29732 or http://www.sdlatlas.com/.
The diameters of the squeeze rolls should be determined with a pair of calipers or directly with a suitable micrometer. Measurements should be made at five (5) different places along the length of each roll, and the average of these measurements will be used as the diameter of the roll.
The load applied by the dead weight or lever system should be measured using a spring scale or balance, and suspending the top roll of the wringer from the scale by means of two
(2) tapes of equal length. The tapes should be placed between the rolls near their ends and should be provided with a means of holding them sufficiently far apart so that there is no contact between the tapes and the top structural member of the wringer and loading system. The spring scale or balance should be suspended from a suitable rigid support and provided with a turnbuckle or other device for adjusting the height of the scale. The usual http://www.sdlatlas.com/ precautions concerning the zero correction of spring scales should be observed. The turnbuckle or other device should then be adjusted to place the weight of the top roll and its weighting system on the spring scale or balance, and the system should be considered to be in equilibrium when the top roll of the wringer had been lifted just sufficiently from the bottom roll to permit vision between the bottoms of the tapes and the top of the bottom roll.
At this point, the dead weight on the loading system should be adjusted until the spring scale or balance indicates a load of 27.7 (± 0.5) kg. The calibration of the spring scale or balance should be certified by the use of known certified dead weights of 24.95, 27.22, and
29.48 (± 0.23) kg total weight. The spring scale should be accurate at each of the three (3) verification loads (± 0.2268 kg).
The linear speed of the rolls should be measured by feeding a thin steel tape through the rolls. The steel tapes should be at least 150cm long and should be accurate to within 3 mm per 150 cm. The time required for exactly 150 cm of this tape to pass through the nip of the rolls should be measured in s to the nearest s with a stopwatch calibrated in intervals of not more than 0.5 seconds. The speed of the rolls should be adjusted until the time required for
150 cm of tape to pass through the nip of the roll is 60(± 2) seconds.
Blotters suitable for this test can be obtained from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research
Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215 or http://www.aatcc.org.
Should it be necessary to run only one (1) specimen, a specimen of similar material with respect to weight should be run as ballast with the specimen undergoing test.
4.6 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns. Whenever non-conformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.
4.7 Finished measurements.
4.7.1 Jacket measurements. The finished measurements for the jacket shall conform to Table
VIII, IX and X.
TABLE VIII. Finished measurements, jacket (inches).
SIZES (A)
1/2
Chest
(B)
Armhole
Opening
1/2
Bicep
(C)
(D)
Sleeve
Bottom
Opening
(E)
1/2
Waist
Relaxed
(F)
Neck
Circumference
(G)
Collar
Length
XX-Small 24 1/2 13 1/8 10 4 16 1/2 17 15 1/2
X-Small 26 13 3/4 10 3/8 4 18 17 3/4 16 1/4
Small 27 1/2 14 3/8 10 7/8 4 19 1/2 18 1/2 17
Medium 29 15 11 1/4 4 1/4 21 19 1/4 17 3/4
Large 30 1/2 15 3/4 11 3/4 4 1/4 22 1/2 20 18 1/2
X-Large 32 16 1/2 12 1/8 4 1/2 24 20 3/4 19 1/4
XX-Large 34 17 3/8 12 5/8 4 1/2 26 21 1/4 19 3/4
TABLE VIII. Finished measurements, jacket (inches).
SIZES (A)
1/2
Chest
(B)
Armhole
Opening
1/2
Bicep
(C)
(D)
Sleeve
Bottom
Opening
(E)
1/2
Waist
Relaxed
(F)
Neck
Circumference
(G)
Collar
Length
XXX-
Large
36 18 1/4 13 4 3/4 28 21 3/4
20 1/4
XXXX-
Large
38 19 1/8 13 1/2 4 3/4 30 22 1/4 20 3/4
Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/4
TABLE IX. Finished measurements, jacket (inches).
TABLE X. Finished measurements, jacket (inches).
SIZES
Back Length (J) Underarm sleeve (K)
X-Short Short Regular Long X- Long
X-Short Short Regular Long X- Long
XX-Small 24 25 26 ‒ ‒ 18 19 1/2 21 ‒ ‒
X-Small 25 26 27 28 29 18 3/4 20 1/4 21 3/4 23 1/4 24 3/4
Small 26 27 28 29 30 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
Medium 27 28 29 30 31 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
Large 28 29 30 31 32 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
X-Large 29 30 31 32 33 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
XX-Large 30 31 32 33 34 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
XXX-Large 30 31 32 33 34 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
XXXX-Large 30 31 32 33 34 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24 25 1/2
Tolerance ± ½ ± ½
4.8 Method of measuring garment (with jacket on a flat surface). Jacket shall be measured as follows:
(A) 1/2 Chest: Measure at base of armhole, flat across the chest.
(B) Armhole opening: Measure front armhole seam from neck seam to base of armhole.
(C) 1/2 Bicep: Measure at base of armhole, flat across the sleeve.
(D) Sleeve opening (Half of cuff opening circumference): With elastic cuff flat and relaxed, measure from folded edge to folded edge across cuff at bottom of sleeve.
SIZES CENTER FRONT COLLAR
HEIGHT (H)
CENTER BACK COLLAR
HEIGHT (I)
SHOULDER DART
LENGTH
ALL
SIZES
2 2 1/2 4 1/2
Tolerance ± 1/8 ± 1/8 ±1/4
(E) 1/2 Waist relaxed: Measure across bottom of jacket, with elastic waist flat and relaxed, from folded edge to folded edge.
(F) Neck Circumference: On the inside of the garment, measure along the collar joining seam, not including zipper.
(G) Collar length: Measure along top edge of collar from right front to left front, not including zipper.
(H) Center front collar height: Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center front.
(I) Center back collar height: Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center back.
(J) Back length: Measure from bottom of collar to jacket bottom, including elastic waist.
(K) Underarm sleeve: Measure from base of armhole to sleeve bottom, including elastic cuff.
4.9 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.
4.10 Visual examination. Each jacket shall be examined for the defects listed below (see Table
XI).
TABLE XI. Defects.
Defect Major Minor
A
Minor B
Material Defects and Workmanship Damages 1/
a. Any hole *
b. Abrasion damaging the fabric *
c. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole.
d. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside of jacket *
e. Needle chew that might develop into hole *
f. Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn *
g. Needle holes in outer fabric X
Shaded Parts
a. Any shaded parts on outside of jacket *
b. Color not as specified X
Cleanliness
a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of jacket X
TABLE XI. Defects - Continued.
A
Minor B
b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of jacket X
c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of jacket or two or more markings not removed X
Components
a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein)
b. Any component part omitted (not classified herein) *
c. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.
d. Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full to the degree that serviceability or appearance is affected.
Bartacks
a. One bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. X
b. Two bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. X
c. Three or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. X
d. Any bartack not specified length X
Seams and Stitching
a. Seam distorted, twisted or pleated *
b. Any seam puckered (except for where the sleeve joins to the jacket front or back at the underarm, which may be slightly puckered but no more than is allowed in SS-4 of Table A of
AATCC Test 88B) 5/
c. Any part of jacket caught in unrelated operation or stitching *
d. Thread(s) used on outside of jacket not same shade or not satisfactory match of jacket shade
X
e. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked X
f. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of jacket X
g. Gauge of stitching (edge, top, or raise stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance X
A
Minor B
h. Gauge of stitching (edge, top, or raise stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified X
i. Open seam more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 2/ X
j. Open seam more than 1/4 inch 2/ X
k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 in inch (on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/ X
l. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/ X
m. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of jacket 3/ X
n. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of jacket 3/ X
o. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of jacket 3/ X
p. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of jacket 3/ X
q. Run offs more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on edge, top, or raise stitching if not resulting in open seam
(outside only) 4/ X
r. Run offs more than 1 inch on edge, top, or raise stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/ X
s. Seam or stitch not specified type X
t. Loose tension resulting in loose seam X
u. Loose tension on edge, top, or raise stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread X
v. Tight tension 5/ X
w. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket one or two less than specified X
x. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket three less than specified X
y. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket four or more less than specified X
z. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket more than specified X
A
Minor B
aa. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more X
bb. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced X
cc. Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability X
dd. Topstitching on collar, sleeve seams, and welts greater than
3/16 inch from folded edge or seam X
ee. Topstitching of center front and pocket slide fasteners greater than 3/16 inch from folded edge X
ff. Attachment of pocket welt greater than 1/4 inch from edge X
gg. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch X
Embroidery
a. Air Force symbol and embroidery text containing loose stitches X
b. Stitch count, text, style, or appearance not in accordance with standard sample X
c. Air Force symbol placement not as specified X
Labels
a. Label missing or size marking omitted, incorrect, or illegible X
b. Information (except size) missing, incorrect, or illegible X
c. Label not stitched on four sides X
d. Stitching on top of label verbiage *
e. Label is stitched to outer shell of jacket X
Welt Pockets
a. Left and right welt pockets not in corresponding diagonal position, affecting appearance *
b. Welt pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch X
Welt Pocket Slide Fastener
a. Slide fastener tape set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging at pocket opening, affecting appearance while open or closed X
b. Slide fastener not specified type, size, or style or any part of assembly omitted, bent, or broken X
A
Minor B
c. Welt pocket stitched too closed to plastic molded chain, not permitting slider to pass. X
d. Zipper has a gap more than 1/4" between zipper and pocket edge X
Bottom Hem
a. Jacket twisted or pleated by stitching forming bottom hem X
b. Width of finished bottom hem less than 1 inch or more than 1
3/8 inch X
c. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed X
d. Waistband curling X
Collar
a. Collar tight at joining to neck seam causing puckers or pleats on fronts, back, or facings X
b. Collar edges irregular X
c. Collar points poorly shaped or not uniform shape or size X
d. Topcollar tight; i.e., causing edge of collar to curl or bulge on undercollar X
e. Topcollar badly twisted, puckered, or full X
f. Interlining tight or twisted causing puckers on undercollar X
g. Finished width of collar at center back less than 2 3/8 inches or more than 2 5/8 inches X
Cuff
a. Cuff full or twisted, affecting appearance X
Sleeves
a. Sleeve sagging, twisted, bulging, or short caused by shortness, tightness, or lining not correctly positioned *
b. Sleeve fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area X
c. Sleeve lining too long, causing lining to sag at bottom X
Side Seams, Fronts, and Front Closure
a. Back overlapping front at side seam X
b. Length of closed fronts uneven at neck or at bottom 1/4 inch or more X
1/ If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is non-weakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein.
2/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge, top, or raise stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.
3/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam.
4/ Run offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams.
5/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.
4.11 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.
5 PACKAGING
5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military
Defect Major Minor
A
Minor B
c. Slide fastener tape set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging on opening, affecting appearance while open or closed X
d. Slide fastener not specified type, size, or style or any part of assembly omitted, bent, or broken X
e. Jacket part stitched too closed to plastic molded chain, not permitting slider to pass. X
f. Top edge of slide fastener more than 1/4 inch from finished edge of neckline X
Dimensions
a. Measurement of item not as specified X
*Defects marked with asterisk are major defects if they affect the serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability
Service or Defense Agency or within the military service’s system commands.
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