AB-03-01A Womens Distinctive Coat 2008.docx

USPD AB-03-01A

April 16, 2025

USPD AB-03-01A

U.S. ARMY

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COATS, WOMAN’S, DISTINCTIVE FOR THE UNITED STATES ARMY FIELD BAND

1. SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a 55/45% dacron/wool distinctive coat intended for wear by female personnel of the United States Army Field Band.

2. CLASSIFICATION

Classification. The coat shall be one type and be of the sizes specified.

2.2 Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this document shall govern, except that the detailed requirements may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

3.1 Description. The coats are form fitted to the body, cut one inch above the natural waistline with a straight bottom hem The coats have a four piece front, four piece back, stiffened standing collar with eyelets for placement of unit insignia, a collar tab on left side of collar, concealed center front slide fastener closure with 3 snaps to secure fly flap, 8 buttons with eyelets and toggles on front of fly flap with a French fly to conceal the eyelets and toggles, shoulder loops and hook and eye closure at neck. The coat has an inside breast pocket (wearer’s right side) and perspiration shields attached to the lining. The sleeves, shoulder loops, along front of fly flap have ornamental braid. The coat is fully lined. The lining shall be attached at the bottom of coat. (see figure 1)

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be one of the following fabrics, as specified.

3.2.1.1 Polyester/wool. The material shall be a elastique 55/45% dacron/wool blend, 16.5-17 ounce, conforming to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-C-21115. The color shall be Army Blue 150.

3.2.1.2 Polyester/wool. The material shall be an elastique 55/45% dacron/wool blend, 14-14.5 ounce, conforming to AESC 82-2. The color shall be Army Blue 150.

3.2.2 Linings. The lining shall be 3.7 ounce or 4.2 ounce rayon, conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-C-368. As an alternate, the lining material may be polyester twill, conforming to class 3 of A-A-52106. The color shall be blue, matching the basic material.

3.2.4 Interlinings/Fusing

3.2.4.1 Collar interlining. The material for the collar interlining shall be black, bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to type II of A-A-50186.

3.2.4.3 Small parts fusible interlining. The shoulder loops shall use a non-woven fusible interlining. The fusible interlining shall conform to type V or VI, class 1, styles A or B, or type VIII, class 1, style A of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed powder applied to one side in accordance with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same fusible material. As an alternate, a woven, lightweight fusible interlining conforming to type I, class 1, style A of MIL-C-44296 may be used. Some trim designs call for added reinforcement. This is to be done with Pellon 8557 engineered dot fusible, which will not delaminate.

Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat fronts and side body fronts shall be a napped woven twill material conforming to type II, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. As an alternate, type III, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296 may be used. The color of the fusible interlining shall be black or charcoal. The material shall have a uniformly distributed dot type nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one side in accordance with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same fronts fusible material.

3.2.4.5 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and front fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry cleaning and minimum 24 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry cleanings and pressings. Additionally the small parts fusible interlining will be accepted if it either begins to debond from the outer shell material, equivalent to the minimum bond strength or higher, and then splits from itself or if the small parts readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces per inch.

3.2.4.6 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show fastness to dry cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296, except when no standard sample is available, the finished fusible materials shall show “fair” fastness to dry cleaning.

3.2.4.7 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.2.4.4, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage. Additionally, the interlining after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.2.4.4 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry cleaning. All dry cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination.

3.2.4.8 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam source fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness.

3.2.5 Ornamentation.

3.2.5.1 Shoulder loop and front and bottom edge ornamentation. The braid for the shoulder loops and front edges shall be type I, class 2 of MIL-B-13466, except that only nylon yarns shall be used. The color shall be goldenlite.

3.2.6 3.2.6 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for closing the front of coat shall finish 14-1/2 + 1/8 inches long, 9/16 inch width tape, auto-locking pull-slide, 2 way black nylon, type III, style 8 (left hand separating), size 5-7 of A-A-55634. The color of the tape shall match the basic material and shall show “good” colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning when tested in accordance with 4.4.1.

3.2.7 Buttons. The buttons shall be metal, type I, style 2, class E of MIL-B-3461, 30-line for fronts and 25-line for shoulder loops. They should all be Sta-Brite, or equal.

3.2.8 Eyelets. The collar and front eyelets shall be worked with the purling on the outside of the coat, and shall finish with a 1/8 inch diameter opening. See standard sample for placement.

3.2.9 Toggles. Toggles for securing buttons to fronts shall conform to MIL-B-3461.Toggles shall be covered with self fabric, securely stitched on the outer side, and tacked at every snap on the inside to provide access to the toggles.

3.2.10 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for neck closure shall be the sewn-on type and shall be of sufficient size for the intended purpose. The finish shall be commercial black. The hook and eye shall be of a good commercial quality.

3.2.11 Snaps. The snaps for the front fly flap shall be sewn on commercial type, 1/2 inch nominal. The engagement of the snaps shall be smooth and easy and the snaps shall line up evenly.

3.2.12 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-P-15064. They shall consist of heavy density, 100% premium grade preshrunk “Harsh” quality combed Indian cotton (Harsh quality is being resilient and bouncy). It shall be a semi-oval shape, approximately 4-/2 x 7-1/2 inches. The entire pad shall be covered with a print cloth and quilt stitched throughout to prevent wadding. Shoulder pads consisting of multiple layers of needle-punched preformed polyester are not acceptable.

3.2.13 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester-covered polyester core, Tex No. 36-45, 2 or 3 ply and for overedge stitching, Tex No. 31-35, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. As an option, cotton thread conforming to Type I, ticket number 50 of A-A-52094 may be used for all stitching. The color of the thread shall be Blue, matching the basic material. The thread shall show fastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning and light.

3.2.14 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination size (chest and length measurements), identification, and instruction label. The label shall be a white, nonwoven, acrylic coated commercial type label. The label shall be printed or stamped and sewn in the center of back lining piece. The name of the individual (if known) shall be legibly printed, stamped or written thereon, or blank lines in place of name. The label shall show “good” colorfastness to wet dry cleaning when tested in accordance with AATCC 132. The combination label shall include the following information:

ITEM: COAT, WOMAN’S, ARMY FIELD BAND

CHEST: LENGTH:

FIBER CONTENT: 55% POLYESTER/45% WOOL

NAME OF CONTRACTOR/MANUFACTURER:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3 Figures. Figures are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between this purchase description and the figures, this purchase description shall govern.

3.4 Standard sample. A one size, standard sample is available and will be furnished by the Government upon request. This will be used for a guide in developing working patterns and construction of the garment. It is the manufacturer’s responsibility to grade the other sizes. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures, however the design of the item must be maintained.

3.4.1 List of components. The coats shall be cut from material as specified in Table I, in accordance with the components indicated.

TABLE I. List of Components

Material Components Quantity .

Cloth, cotton, buckram Collar interlining 1

Wigan Top sleeve 2

3.5 Construction.

3.5.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. The coat is to be completely machine stitched, except in areas where specific tailoring requires other methods. All stitches, seams and stitching shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams will result. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the coat. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gaged.

3.5.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.5.3 Bartacking. Bartacking shall measure 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.5.4 Thread ends. All thread ends that are visible on the finished coat shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.5.5 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, square bar, cut-first type. The finished cut length shall be 7/8 to 1 inch for the front closures and 5/8 to 3/4 inch for the shoulder loops, with the purling on the outside of the coat. The buttonhole shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and gimp ends pulled through. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be bartacked by hand or machine the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching and the gimp with at least 21 stitches.

3.5.6 Automatic stitching. Automatic stitching machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern and size and types of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping, or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.5.7 Repairs. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted on the coats.

3.5.8 Coat. See standard sample for seam allowances. All exposed edges on the coat shall be overedged stitched. Use standard sample as a guide for construction of the coat.

3.5.8.1 Front. The front shall be sewn and pressed smooth without puckering. The interlinings will be blindstitched smooth into position. The fronts are fully fused and are reinforced with preshrunk cotton tape extending around bottom and back edges to prevent stretching. There are eight (8) buttons attached to left front (when worn) with eyelets and toggles evenly spaced down front flap. The buttons shall start 1-1/4 + 1/8 inches from top and end with the bottom button 3 + 1/8 inches from the finished bottom. The slide fastener shall be bartacked top and bottom and sewn to facing surface, not sandwiched between basic fabric and facing. A french fly, constructed from basic material, shall be sewn on backside of flap under slide fastener to cover eyelets and toggles. A welt pocket shall be constructed on the inside right side (when worn), approximately 10 inches from the finished bottom edge. The ornamental braid shall be attached at edge of fly flap (in seam), from bottom of fly up around top portion of fly flap. The ornamental braid and pocket welt shall be applied only through the basic material, not through the four-layer chest piece.

3.5.8.2 Back. The back has princess seams and a center back seam, which shall be sewn and pressed smooth without puckering. The back hem shall finish smooth and even.

3.5.8.3 Collar. The collar shall be a stiffened standing collar. The inner core foundation of the collar shall be .014 mylar. There is a laminated layer of non-woven pellon P15 on the inboard side of the entire foundation. A black, heavy duty hook and eye is to be placed at the front neck closure. The hook and eye shall be sewn through the mylar, pellon and two layers of collar lining material. It shall be placed at the optimum angle to insure proper tension and comfort. The collar lining shall consist of two layers of Burlington Mills “Cramerton” fabric, or equal, which is 65/35% polyester/combed cotton, pre-shrunk and non-wicking. The collar is supported on the inside by the laminated non-woven pellon, which also serves as a protective layer. The outside collar piece shall be made from basic material. The top edge of the mylar base is bound with “Cramerton” fabric and has a finished welted seam on each side. The whipcord fabric is doubled over the top of the mylar base, along with the two layers of the collar lining and stitched along the top edge. This 5-layer construction results in a “beaded” edge and serves as a protection all along the top edge of the liner. This is accomplished with a single row of locked stitching through the mylar base. A single layer of fusing tape or bridle tape is not sufficient protection in this area and is not acceptable. The bottom edge of the standing collar is to be sewn through and through to attach the double layers of “Cramerton” lining to the outer layer of whipcord. This row of stitching is immediately below the bottom edge of the mylar foundation. Construction of the collar in this manner provides the most dimensionally stable garment, without the additional rows of needle holes. Fabric welts are to be applied to the outer fabric of collar before assembly. This prevents sewing the trim through the mylar core with additional rows of needle holes. The reinforced eyelets, 1/8 inch in diameter, for the post of the distinctive unit insignia, shall be centered on the collar with the center of eyelet set back 2 + 1/8 inches from each front edge of stand-up collar. The eyelet shall go through all plies of collar. A collar tab, made from basic material, shall be attached on underside of left front of collar. The collar shall not be topstitched. The collar width for all sizes of coats shall be 1-1/2 + 1/16 inches. (see figure 2)

3.5.8.4 Shoulder loops. The shoulder loops are made from basic material. Each shoulder loop shall be die cut in two pieces to insure uniformity. The shoulder loops shall be interlined with fusible. They are sewn together, turned and topstitched around outside edge. They shall finish approximately 2 inches wide. The cord-edge braid shall be caught in the joining seam of the shoulder loop pieces. Each loop has a 3/4 inch buttonhole, centered on loop, with front of buttonhole approximately 3/4 from point. The shoulder loop, with ornamental braid already attached, shall be attached in the sleeve setting seam, with the point falling on the shoulder seam and 3/8 inch away from collar seam. A button shall be sewn on the shoulder seam to line up with the buttonhole. The button shall be reinforced with a backing button. Both loops shall be stitched down around shoulder loop to coat.

3.5.8.5 Sleeves. The sleeve shall be “felled” into the top of the armhole. The bottom of the sleeve shall be machine lock-stitched into the armhole to give the greatest strength in this high stress area. Sleeves are to be cut using a 60/40 pattern per fine tailoring. They will be pitched forward 3-4 degrees in the armhole to allow for the arm-lift associated with playing a musical instrument. This is a critical design feature. The armhole shall be reinforced with preshrunk cotton tape to prevent stretching. An area of approximately 3-4 inches at upper back armhole area shall not be taped. This will allow proper “stretch” across the shoulders during arm movement. The hem shall have a 2 inch turn under and the lining shall be secured and constructed using a chain stitch to allow easy altering of the sleeve length.

3.5.8.6 Lining. The coats are fully lined. There is a pleat down the centerback to allow for fullness. The lining is completely sewn around the armhole, not just tacked. The bottom edge of the lining shall be hemmed and stitched with the raw edge enclosed within the hem. Seam lines on back parts of lining shall be superimposed upon respective seam lines of outer shell and tacked by machine or hand to the bottom hem of the outer shell at the four different locations.

3.5.8.7 Pockets. A 4-3/4 inch wide by 7 inch deep inside pocket shall be constructed on the inside right side, approximately 10 inches from the finished bottom. The welt and pocket facing shall be the basic fabric and the facing shall extend 1-1/2 inches down into the pocket with the remainder of the pocket made from pocketing material. (see figure 3)

3.5.8.9 Perspiration shield. The perspiration shield is approximately 4 inches square. It is made of an absorbent wool flannel fabric, consisting of 85% wool and 15% nylon material. It shall be double sponged to prevent shrinkage. The shield is edged all around with a pre-shrunk bias polyester/cotton tape. It shall be stitched to the lining and then attached into the bottom of the armhole seam. Tacking is not acceptable. (see figure 4)

3.6 Pressing. All seams shall be under-pressed during fabrication. All seams shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions.

3.7 Workmanship. The finished coats shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.1). Variations from this purchase description may appear in the sample in which case this purchase description shall govern.

4.2 Product conformance. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this purchase description and that the product conforms to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.3 Visual examination. Each coat shall be examined for the defects listed below: Any component part omitted, not as specified, not positioned as specified, not color specified or does not function properly; any part of coat caught in unrelated row of stitching; Fabric: any hole, cut, tear, drill hole, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub, any part shaded or any spot or stain (outside), shade variation within a part or between parts; Lining: not securely caught in fabric, not as specified or positioned so as to cause a bulge; Bartacks: missing, insecure, misplaced or not as specified; Pockets (general): any pocket out of alignment, length of pocket opening not as specified, facing exposed on outside, welt not specified width; Any part of coat not constructed as specified; Shoulder loops: finished measurements not as specified, not constructed as specified, buttonhole not positioned as specified, does not lay flat; Fusing: Bubbling or delamination on fused components, any bleed through or color fading on fused parts; Front opening: uneven at top or bottom, slide fastener does not close properly; Seams: any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular, thread ends not trimmed or removed, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge – resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowances not as specified, raw edges; Buttonholes: missing, not as specified, not securely caught at waistband, misplaced or positioned so as to cause a bulge; Buttons: misplaced, missing or broken, defective, insecurely sewn, not as specified, misplaced or positioned so as to cause a misaligned front; Snap fasteners: broken, bent, cracked, improperly clinched or failing to effect a secure closure or to open freely; Hook and eye: not positioned as specified causing bulge, twist, distortion or pucker at neck, damaged affecting function or not securely attached; Slide fastener: does not mesh properly, slider binds, catches, sticks, or disengages from coils, not type, style or size specified, any required component missing or not properly assembled; Sewn eyelets: not positioned as specified; Snaps: not as specified, not positioned as specified, does not close properly, misaligned when closed; Eyelets and toggles: not as specified, not positioned as specified, misaligned when closed; Braid: not size or color specified, not attached as specified, not correct design a specified; Labels: omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified or stitched through printing; items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order.

4.4 End item performance testing.

4.4.1 Colorfastness. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning for the labels and slide fastener shall be in accordance with AATCC 132.

4.5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing and marking. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order or in accordance with good commercial practice.

6. NOTES

6.1 Samples. For access to samples of the end item, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids.

6.2 Fitting procedures. The following procedures shall be used to determine proper back length, sleeve length, and collar size:

a. Back length - Bottom of coat shall extend 1 - 2 inches below bottom of buttocks.

b. Sleeve length - Sleeve shall extend from 1-1/2 – 2 inches below bottom of wristbone when standing at attention

c. Collar - Collar shall exceed actual neck measurement by 1 – 1-1/4 inches when throat is inflated.

6.3 Sources of Government documents. Copies of military and federal documents are available from:

Department of the Navy Defense Printing Service Detachment Office 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 4D Philadelphia, PA 19111-5093

6.4 Sources of Non-Government documents.

AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

Prepared By:

Supply NCOIC The US Army Field Band

ATTN: SAPA-AFB

Fort George G. Meade, MD 20755

FIGURE 1 – COAT, WOMAN’S (DISTINCTIVE U.S. ARMY FIELD BAND)

FIGURE 2 – COLLAR FOR COAT, WOMAN’S (DISTINCTIVE U.S.

ARMY FIELD BAND)

FIGURE 3 – PERSPIRATION SHIELD FOR COAT, WOMAN’S

(DISTINCTIVE U.S. ARMY FIELD BAND)

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