AB-02-01 Mens and Womens trousers 2008.docx

USPD AB-02-01

25 March 2009

USPD AB-02-01

U.S. ARMY

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S, DISTINCTIVE FOR THE UNITED STATES

ARMY FIELD BAND

1. SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for 55/45% polyester/ wool tropical distinctive trousers intended for wear by male and female personnel of the United States Army Field Band.

2. CLASSIFICATION

Classification. The trousers shall be one of the following types and be of the sizes specified.

2.2 Individual orders. When the trousers are custom tailored to an individual order, this document shall govern, except that the detailed requirements may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

3.1 Description. The trousers are worn by both males and females. The trousers have two side pockets, back darts and hip pockets. The right hip pocket has a tab and button closure. There are 8 belt loops and two hook and eye closures at waist. There is a two piece french fly with fly tab at the front opening and a four way crotch reinforcement at the inseams. The front and back creases on the leg are treated with a permanent silicone adhesive bead. An outlet is provided at the center back seam for alteration purposes. The trousers are unlined. (see figure 1).

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall be one of the following fabrics, as specified.

3.2.1.1 Polyester/wool tropical. The material shall be a 55/45% dacron/wool tropical blend, 16.5-17 ounce, conforming to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-C-21115. The color shall be Raeford # 645-151

3.2.1.2 Polyester/wool tropical. The material shall be a 55/45% dacron/wool tropical blend, 14-14.5 ounce, conforming to AESC 82-2. The color shall be Raeford # 645-151.

3.2.2 Lining, interlining and pocketing.

3.2.2.1 Lining and interlining. The material shall be polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. As an alternate, cotton silesia cloth conforming to type I of MIL-C-326 may be used. The color of the linings and interlinings shall be black.

3.2.2.2 Pocketing. The material for the pocketing shall be a polyester/cotton cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be black.

3.2.3 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be black, bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to type II of A-A-50186. As an alternate, a nonwoven cloth, natural in color, conforming to type V of A-A-50186 may be used.

3.2.4 Waistband interlining. The material for the waistband interlining shall be a fusible conforming to Type I or V, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296.

3.2.5 Buttons. The buttons for the left hip pocket and inside waistband closure shall be type II, class D, style 4, 22-line, glossy finish conforming to V-B-871. All buttons are black.

3.2.6 Snaps. The snaps shall be a commercial type, 3/8 inch nominal. The female portion of the snap shall be silver plated with matching male portion. The engagement of the snaps shall be smooth and easy and the snaps shall line up evenly.

3.2.7.1 Front closure. The slide fastener for closing the front shall be 9 inches long, heavy duty brass chain, automatic lock slider, top stop, short tab pull, 7/16 or 9/16 inch width tape conforming to type I, style 4, size 3 or 4 of A-A-55634. There shall be a brass bottom stop at the base of the slide fastener. The color of the tape shall match the basic material and shall show excellent colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning when tested in accordance with 4.4.1.

3.2.7.2 Pant leg ornamentation. Ornamental braid is worn on each outside seam of the slack leg, from the bottom of the waistband to the bottom of slack leg, as follows:

3.2.7.2.1 Type I Male 1 ½ -inch wide Goldenlite lace braid.

3.2.7.2.2 Type II Female 1-inch wide Goldenlite lace braid.

3.2.8 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49, K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 Eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (0A50, OX 1256, 080415), Patwin, Inc. , (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Silk- Slak), YKK or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate.

3.2.9 Thread. The thread used for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester- covered polyester core, Tex No. 36-45, 2 or 3 ply and for overedge stitching, Tex No. 31-35, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. As an option, cotton thread conforming to Type I, ticket number 50 of A-A-52094 may be used for all stitching. The color of the thread shall match the basic material. The thread shall show fastness to light, perspiration and wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show excellent fastness to light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning.

3.2.10 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, Type I, Tex 270 or Type II, Tex 300 (Ticket No. 8) conforming to A-A-50198. The color shall match the basic material. The gimp shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the gimp shall show excellent fastness to wet/dry cleaning.

3.2.11 Labels. Each pair of trouser shall have a combination size (waist and length measurements), identification, and instruction label. The label shall be a white, non-woven, acrylic coated commercial type label. The label shall be printed or stamped and attached on the inside lower edge of the waistband in the back. The name of the individual (if known) shall be legibly printed, stamped or written thereon, or blank lines in place of name. The label shall show excellent colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning when tested in accordance with 4.4.1. The combination label shall include the following information:

ITEM: TROUSERS, ARMY FIELD BAND

WAIST: LENGTH:

FIBER CONTENT: 55% POLYESTER/45% WOOL

NAME OF CONTRACTOR/MANUFACTURER:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3 Figures. Figures are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between this purchase description and the figures, this purchase description shall govern.

3.4 Standard sample. A one size, standard sample is available and will be furnished by the Government upon request. This will be used for a guide in developing working patterns and construction of the garment. It is the manufacturer’s responsibility to grade the other sizes. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however the design of the item must be maintained.

3.4.1 List of components. The trousers shall be cut from material as specified in Table I,in accordance with the components indicated.

TABLE I. List of Components

3.5 Construction.

3.5.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitching shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams will result. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch. The edge and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged.

3.5.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back tacked not less than 1/4 inch. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.5.3 Bartacking. Bartacking shall measure 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.5.4 Thread ends. All thread ends that are visible on the finished trousers shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.5.5 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, square bar, cut-first type. The finished cut length shall be 5/8 to 3/4 inch, worked over gimp, with the purling on the outside of the trousers. The buttonhole shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and gimp ends pulled through. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be bartacked by hand or machine the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching and the gimp with at least 21 stitches.

3.5.6 Automatic stitching. Automatic stitching machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern and size and types of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping, or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.5.7 Permanent creasing. All trousers shall have permanent silicone creases (see 6.2 and 6.2.1). Each pair of trousers shall have a single continuous 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive bead applied to the backside of the basic material in the center of each of the four pre-pressed leg creases to form permanent creases. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the top of the crotch to within two inches of the open (unfinished) trouser bottom. The permanent creases in the trousers shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, and failure to retain creases, cracking, staining or strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness when tested for resistance to dry heat, steam pressing and dry cleaning as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5.8 Repairs. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted on the trousers.

3.5.9 Trousers. The seam allowance for the trousers shall be 1/2 inch, unless otherwise specified. The legs of the trousers are cut straight down from the knee. There are two 7 inch darts in back of trousers that shall finish 3 + 1/8 inches below the pocket welt opening (see figure 2). The outseam of the trouser is a 3/8 inch safety stitch and the seams are pressed forward. The inseam is stitched at 1/2 inch with a single needle chainstitch and the seams are overedged and pressed open. The front rise/zipper setting is stitched with a 1/2 inch chainstitch pressed open and overedged. The back rise is stitched at 1/2 inch at the crotch to 1–1/2 inch at the center back seam outlet. The seam is clean finished at the waistband and at the rise it is overedged and pressed open. The back rise is chainstitched twice for added support in the seat. All edges of the trousers shall be overedged. Use standard sample as a guide for construction of the trousers.

3.5.9.1 Waistband. The waistband lining shall be 3 + 1/8 inches wide and be made from a 50/50 polyester/cotton twill fabric. The waistband shall be reinforced with a permanently finished, pre-shrunk cotton or polyester/cotton blend buckram stabilizer, 1 + 1/8 inch shorter than the lining. The bottom edge is to be turned and finished. The inside curtain is further reinforced at the top of the waistband with 2 inch velvet smooth “RolControl” or equal. This is stitched together at the top with a flexible clean top Rocap stitch (zig-zag stitching is not acceptable). The entire lower edge of the inside waistband curtain shall be topstitched. There is a minimum 2-1/2 inch centerback outlet that is turned back on each side, against the waistband, and secured with 1/2 inch horizontal bartacks at each corner and one 1/2 inch horizontal bartack on the centerback seam (see figure 2). The centerback seam is sewn with two rows of locked chain stitching, running from the extreme upper edge of the waistband into the crotch seam. Centerback seams starting below the upper edge of waistband are not acceptable. The waistband shall finish 2 + 1/8 inches wide.

3.5.9.2 Front closure. The inside of the right fly will be lined with a layer of durable polyester/cotton material (see 3.2.3). It is to extend beyond the crotch reinforcement pieces. A fly tab is placed with top edge at bottom of waistband between right fly and fly lining. The tab shall finish 2 + 1/8 inches at end and taper to 1-1/4 inches at pointed end. Make a buttonhole, with inside edge of eyelet finishing 5/8 to 3/4 inch from front edge (point). A button shall be sewn on to left front to correspond to fly tab. The left fly is to be interlined with Pellon SF 134W, or equal, to provide permanent shape retention and durability. It is to be bound with a pre-shrunk, bias cut tape for appearance and durability. The slide fastener teeth are to be removed at the top, with the tape extending under the waistband tab. There are three 1/2 inch bartacks at the base of the fly for additional reinforcement; two vertical bartacks on the lower front fly interior and one horizontal bartack at the bottom of the lower front fly exterior. The front closure is to be secured at the top of the waistband with two hook and eye. A 3/4 inch reinforcement piece, Ban-Rol or equal, shall be stitched into the seam, not just placed behind the hook and eye closures, to prevent tearing a the point of closure.

3.5.9.3 Belt loops. There are a total of eight (8) belt loops. Two on each front evenly spaced on the waistband for a total of four. There are two on each back, one placed at end of side adjustments and one centered between centerback and belt loop for a total of four. There shall no belt loop over the centerback seam or over the side adjustments. The belt loops shall finish 5/16 to 3/8 inches wide. They shall be positioned so after they are bartacked at top edge of waistband they are not more than 1/16 inch below top edge of waistband and 1/2 + 1/16 inch from the bottom of the waistband. The finished belt loops shall measure 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches from top of loop to bottom folded edge. There shall be no belt loop over the center back seam.

3.5.9.4 Pockets. All openings are reinforced with Pellon, or equal.

3.5.9.4.1 Hip pockets. The pockets are to be put into the trousers in the hip area (see figure 3). The hip pockets shall finish 5-1/2 wide by 1/4 inch high by 7 inches deep. The buttonhole tab for the right hip pocket shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch wide and 1-1/4 + 1/8 inch long. A vertical buttonhole shall be placed in the center of the tab with the eyelet end 5/8 inch from point of tab. Chain stitched pocket welting is not acceptable. The hip pockets shall be one piece folded, extending into waistband and clean finished. The hip pockets are bartacked on each end on the inside so they are not visible on the outside.

3.5.9.4.2 Side seam pockets. The side pockets are set into the front and back waistband and are not an extension of the side adjustments. The finished pockets, from bottom of opening to bottom of waistband shall finish 7 + 1/8 inches wide. A horizontal 1/2 bartack shall be placed at the bottom of each pocket. All edges shall be serged and a double row of lock stitches provide a durable construction.

3.5.9.5 Crotch reinforcement. There is a “four way” crotch reinforcement consisting of the 50/50 polyester/cotton pocketing material. This pocketing material shall be cut on the bias for strength. There are four (4), 2-ply sections, one on each side of the fly, seat seam and inseams (see figure 4). The crotch area shall be clean finished with no extra fabric extending from the tops of the inseams.

3.5.9.6 Bottom hems. The bottom of the pant leg shall be surged. Trousers can be hemmed to individual specific size or shipped unhemmed upon request. When unhemmed allow for 6” hem.

3.5.10 Pressing. All seams shall be under-pressed during fabrication. All seams shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions.

3.5.11 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.1). Variations from this purchase description may appear in the sample in which case this purchase description shall govern.

4.2 Product conformance. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this purchase description and that the product conforms to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.3 Visual examination. Each trouser shall be examined for the defects listed below: Any component part omitted, not as specified, not positioned as specified, not color specified or does not function properly; any part of trousers caught in unrelated row of stitching; Fabric: any hole, cut, tear, drill hole, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub, any part shaded or any spot or stain (outside), shade variation within a part or between parts; Bartacks: missing, insecure, misplaced or not as specified; Back darts: not properly tapered causing bulge, twist, or fullness, not uniform; Pockets (general): any pocket out of alignment, length of pocket opening not as specified, facing exposed on outside; Pocket (hip): welt not as specified width; Buttonhole tab: length and width not as specified, not positioned as specified; Fusing: Bubbling or delamination on fused components, any bleed through or color fading on fused parts; Waistband: any fullness, pleats, gathers or twists on waistband or top of trousers, finished width not as specified or uneven in width, not securely attached to trousers; Front opening: uneven at top, slide fastener does not close properly; Seams: any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular, thread ends not trimmed or removed, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge – resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowances not as specified, raw edges; Buttonholes: missing, not as specified, not securely caught at waistband, misplaced or positioned so as to cause a bulge; Buttons: misplaced, missing or broken, defective, insecurely sewn, not as specified, misplaced or positioned so as to cause a misaligned waistband; Snap fasteners: broken, bent, cracked, improperly clinched or failing to effect a secure closure or to open freely; Hook and eye: not positioned as specified causing bulge, twist, distortion or pucker on outside, damaged affecting function or not securely attached; Side adjustments: improperly manufactured, not performing as specified, not positioned as specified, slide fastener defective affecting function; Belt loops: omitted, not attached as specified, finished length and width not as specified, poorly shaped or misplaced; Slide fastener: does not mesh properly, slider binds, catches, sticks, or disengages from coils, not type, style or size specified, any required component missing or not properly assembled; Labels: omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified or stitched through printing; width of hems on trousers not as specified; items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order.

4.4 End item performance testing.

4.4.1 Colorfastness. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning for the labels and slide fastener shall be in accordance with AATCC 132.

4.4.2 Permanent crease testing. Three samples of trousers shall be randomly selected from each end item lot, regardless of lot size and tested as specified below. Any evidence of nonconformance with the requirements shall be considered a test failure. Any test failure shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

Requirement Paragraph Test Method Permanent crease resistance to:

Dry Heat (3 exposures) 3.5.6 AATCC 117 1/

Steam pressing 3.5.6 2/

Dry cleaning 3.5.6 AATCC 132

1/ A maximum of 400 degrees F.

2/ Steam press only in the folded state.

4.5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing and marking. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order or in accordance with good commercial practice.

6. NOTES

6.1 Samples. For access to samples of the end item, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids.

Permanent creasing. A guide for the permanent creasing procedure is as follows:

After pressing the trouser crease apply the silicone resin in a fine bead to the inside of all four creases of the trousers. The bead should be applied from crotch height to within 2 inches of the open bottom trouser. The bead of resin, after application, should be 1/16 (nominal) inch in width and should follow the crease line exactly. Where resin misses the crease for any reason, it should be re-applied into the crease. No special drying or baking procedures are needed when using the silicone crease. The resin will quickly air-cure and no repressing after application is needed. Material and machines required for the process can be obtained from:

6.2.1 Storage of silicone resin. Storage and stability (shelf life) of silicone resin used in permanent creasing.

a. A six-month storage life can be expected if stored in the original unopened cartridges. All cartridges are “use by” dated.

b. All unopened cartridges can be returned to the manufacturer for exchange before the expiration of the “use by” date.

c. Do not use resin that has an expired “use by” date.

d. Do not use commercial construction silicone.

6.3 Sources of Government documents. Copies of military and federal documents are available from:

Department of the Navy Defense Printing Service Detachment Office 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 4D Philadelphia, PA 19111-5093

6.4 Sources of Non-Government documents.

AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

Prepared By:

Supply NCOIC The US Army Field Band

ATTN: SAPA-AFB

Fort George G. Meade, MD 20755

FIGURE 1. TROUSERS, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

(DISTINCTIVE U.S. ARMY FIELD BAND)

FIGURE 2 - CENTERBACK OUTLET FOR TROUSERS,

MEN’S AND WOMEN’S (DISTINCTIVE U.S.

ARMY FIELD BAND)

FIGURE 3 - HIP POCKET WITH DART FOR TROUSERS,

MEN’S AND WOMEN’S (DISTINCTIVE U.S. ARMY

FIELD BAND)

FIGURE 4 - CROTCH REINFORCEMENT FOR TROUSERS,

MEN’S AND WOMEN’S (DISTINCTIVE U.S. ARMY

FIELD BAND)

FIGURE 5 - HEM FOR TROUSERS, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

FIGURE 6 - HEM FOR TROUSERS, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

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