MIL-DTL-29432C 23 September 2019.pdf

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-29432C

23 September 2019

SUPERSEDING

MIL-S-29432B

01 June 1994

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

SLACKS, WOMEN'S

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for women's slacks.

1.2 Classification. The slacks are one type in the following classes, sizes, body styles and lengths (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Classes. The slack classes are as follows:

Class 1 - Green 2212 Class 2 - Sky Blue 2319

1.2.2 Sizes. The slack sizes, body styles, and lengths are as follows:

Body Styles

Lengths

Petite (P) Regular (R) Tall (T)

Junior 8,10,12,14,16 8,10,12,14,16,18 6,8,10,12,14,16,18

Misses 8,10,12,14,16 0X,2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 6,8,10,12,14,16,18

Women’s 8,10,12,14,16 6,8,10,12,14,16,18 6,8,10,12,14,16,18

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addresses to (DLA-Troop Support, Standardization Office, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092). Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2023-04-25T14:52Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, documents users are cautioned that they must meet specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents,

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester or Polyester Blend A-A-55634 - Zipper (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon A-A-59994 – Button, sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine, Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-656 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Women's MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size labeling of Women's Uniform Clothing

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following document forms a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited on the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD adopted)

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.crcpress.com)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection, in accordance with 4.4.

3.2 Design. The Marine Corps dress slacks shall have a two-piece waistband with hook and eye closure, side pockets, back outlet at the seat seam, and inseam outlet from crotch tapered to knee.

The slacks shall have a front fly with zipper and buttoned French fly closure and slightly tapered legs with unhemmed overedged bottoms. (See Figure 1)

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the slack shall be a 10.6 ounce polyester/wool gabardine cloth conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. Class 1 slack shall match Green shade 2212 and Class 2 slack shall match Sky Blue shade 2319.

3.3.2 Lining and pocketing. The material for the pockets and pocket stays shall be polyester or polyester blend twill or plain weave cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color of the cloth shall be black.

3.3.3 Thread. The thread used for the stitching, seaming, and buttonholes shall be a cotton thread conforming to A-A-52094. The specific thread type, tex, and ply of A-A-52094 shall be as specified in Table I for the specified manufacturing operations. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material.

TABLE I. Thread types and tex size.

Manufacturing Operation Thread Type Tex size Thread Ply Buttonholes II 40 3 301 or 401 seams and stitching II 50 3 Overedge seams and stitching I 30 2 Button attachment II 105 4

As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket number 70, 2-ply, may be used. Caution: Some automatic machines will not operate properly with this thread.

3.3.3.1 Automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed nylon monocord special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2150 yards. This thread shall be tested for these requirements in accordance with test methods specified in A-A-59826.

3.2.4 Gimp The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall conform to type I or II, Tex size 180 or 210 of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.3.5 Button. The button for the french fly shall be 27 ligne, conforming to type I, class 1, style 4 of A-A-59994. The color of the button shall be a good match to the basic material or for class 1 slack the button may be black.

3.3.6 Zipper. The zipper shall be a nonseparating, non-reversible, zipper with open top stop and closed bottom stop, short tab pull, automatic lock slider, in accordance with Type I, style 3, size 3-4 (Brass) or size 2 for polyester or nylon chain in accordance with A-A-55624. The zipper shall have a brass or polyester or nylon chain. The zipper tape and any plastic components shall be a good match to the basic material. The length of the zipper shall be 7 inches for all sizes.

3.3.7 Labels. The slacks shall have a combination identification and instruction label, a size label, and a barcode label/tag.

3.3.7.1 Combination label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 3 of MIL-DTL-32075. The slacks are intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. The inscription shall be as follows:

SLACKS, WOMEN'S

8410-00-000-0000 (Example of NSN) DLA-100-C-0000 (Example of contract number) 65% Polyester/35% Wool (Example of fiber content) Contractor name Manufacturer name (if different than contractor)

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3.7.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 except that the stock number is not required. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984; except that the following Tables for body measurements (Table II) and height ranges (Table III) shall be used. The label’s inscription format shall conform to the label example below:

Label example:

HIP CIRC 36”

WAIST CIRC 25-1/2”

HEIGHT 63-1/2 to 67” (Size Code 6MR)

TABLE II. Body Measurements, inches.

SIZE

WAIST

HIP

JUNIOR MISSES WOMEN

0X 22-1/2 33 2 23-1/2 34 4 24-1/2 35 6 25-1/2 34 36 38 8 26-1/2 35 37 39

10 28 36-1/2 38-1/2 40-1/2 12 29-1/2 38 40 42 14 31 39-1/2 41-1/2 43-1/2 16 33 41-1/2 43-1/2 45-1/2 18 35 43-1/2 45-1/2 47-1/2

TABLE II. Height ranges.

Body height Length designation Less than 63-1/2 inches Petite 63-1/2 to 67 inches Regular More than 67 inches Tall

3.3.7.4. Label/tag Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075, except in addition to the National Stock Number (NSN) the label/tag shall also have a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) element. The UPC is assigned by the Government for all NSNs and the initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the barcode. This label/tag shall be located so that both the NSN and UPC barcodes are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location and inscription shall cause no damage to the item.

3.3.8 Fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the waistband and right fly shall conform to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The fusible shall be fused to the basic material as recommended by the supplier of the fusible. The color of the fusible interlining shall be black.

3.2.9 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband closure shall be in accordance with one of the part numbers listed below, or equal. The hook and eye’s finish shall be nickel plated. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the supplier shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval.

1. Industrial Maching and Design Services Inc. part no. IMDSDS-008 (#8 nickel plated hook) and part no. IMDSDS-085 (#85 nickel plated eye).

2. Metal form part no. 1666 (#49/ESO complete set).

3. YKK Snap Fasteners America part no. 829-000-310 (#8 hook), part no.830-000-310 (#85eye), and part no. PF5-000-340 (#8 hook plate).

4. Snapco Manufacturing Corporation part no. PF6-000-340 (#85 eye hook plate).

5. Or equal to any of the above.

3.4 Figures. Figure 1 is provided for informational purposes only. When inconsistencies are discovered in figure 1, the written specification shall govern.

3.5 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.6 Patterns Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns provide a 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, unless otherwise indicated In Table V. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except for minor modifications to accommodate automatic equipment. These minor modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements governed by the Government standard pattern.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks pattern parts shall be cut from the materials and in the quantities specified in Table IV.

TABLE IV Pattern parts.

Material Pattern part Piece name abbreviation Cut quantity Basic Material Front FRONT 2

Back BACK 2 Waistband WAISTBAND 2 Left Fly LEFT_FLY_OUT 1 Left Fly Lining LEFT_FLY_INN 1 Right Fly RIGHT_FLY 1 Front Pocket Bearer BACK_POCKET_FACING 2 Front Pocket Facing FRONT_POCKET_FSCING 2

TABLE IV Pattern parts - Continued.

Material Pattern part Piece name abbreviation Cut quantity Interlining Right Fly Interlining RIGHT_FLY_FUSIBLE 1

Waistband Interlining WAISTBAND_FUSIBLE 2 Lining Pocket Stay POCKET_STAY 2

Pocket POCKET 2 Marker Fly Marker FLY_MARKER -

3.7 Stitches, seams, and stitches. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table III shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two or more seam or stitching types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the slack. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be forced out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the Overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. The minimum and maximum number of stitches for specified stitch types shall be as specified in Table V.

Table V Stitches.

STITCH TYPE STITCHES

301 12-14 per inch 503 or 504 8-10 per inch Bartacks 21-28 per bartack Button attachment 14-16 per button

3.7.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ¼ inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than ½ inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

3.7.2 Type 401, 406, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished slack. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.3 except substitute ¾ inch for all places ½ inch appears. Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by using stitch type 301.

3.7.3 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ½ inch behind the end of stitching. When making a repair, the ends of the stitches are not required to be backstitched.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ½ inch behind the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of ½ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner.

3.7.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to ¼ inch maximum length. Pulling or breaking the thread ends is prohibited.

3.7.5 Buttonholes. The buttonhole for the French fly shall be an eyelet-end taper-bar type with a finished cut opening of 5/8/ inch.

3.8 Pressing. Pressing specified in Table III shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.9 Shade marking. The component parts shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the slacks. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after removal of tickets.

3.9 Construction. The slacks shall be constructed in accordance with manufacturing operations specified in Table VI. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table VI, however all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the slacks. The slack shall be equal to the slack produced following the order of operations specified in Table VI.

The following abbreviations are used in Table VI.

BOB/LPR - Bobbin/Looper

Brtck - Bartack

Btnhl - Buttonhole

Cont’d – Continued

NDL- Needle

No. - Number

STCH – Stitch

TABLE VI. Manufacturing operations.

No.

OPERATION

STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the slacks in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall show size, placement of component parts, directional lines for cutting, marks for finished length of darts and notches for proper assembly of parts

b. All component parts of the basic material shall be cut from one piece of material except fly facings, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the main assembly.

c. Place fronts and backs so that the directional line is in the warp direction. The directional line may vary from the warp direction by not more than 1 inch on fronts and backs. Measurement shall be taken from the top and bottom of the directional line on the pattern to the selvage edge of the fabric. The difference between the two measurements shall not exceed the tolerance specified.

d. Cut the pocket stays and pockets from the twill cloth in accordance with the patterns.

2. Shade marking.

a. Mark or ticket all component parts of slacks except parts cut from ends, to insure a correct size and uniform shade throughout the slacks (or uniform).

b. The use of corrosive metal fastening devices or sew-on tickets for shade marking is prohibited.

TABLE VI. Manufacturing operations - Continued.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

2.

Cont’d

c. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is acceptable provided the numbers do not show on the outside of the slacks and whenever possible, numbers shall be covered by the seam allowance.

3. Replacement of defective components.

During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-656 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

4. Make darts (basic material).

Finished appearance: The darts shall be tapered on the inside without twists or puckers. Thread ends at lower end of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2 inch in length. End of dart need not be back-tacked except when automatic dart machine is used.

a. Fold and stitch back darts as indicated by notches and marks on the patterns. Press toward center back. Stitch across top of dart 1/8 inch from raw edge.

301 OSf-1 A A

b. Fold and stitch front darts as indicated by notches and marks on the patterns. Press toward center back. Stitch across top of dart 1/8 inch from raw edge.

5. Overedge stitching.

a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of outseams and inseams of front and back parts.

503 or

EFd-1 70/2 70/2

TABLE VI. Manufacturing operations - Continued.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

5.

Cont’d

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of center front seam, and seat seam.

EFd-1 70/2 70/2

c. Fold fly piece in half lengthwise and overedge stitch side and bottom raw edges together. Add button mark for internal button for French fly.

EFd-1 70/2 70/2

d. Position the interlining on the left fly - facing and overedge stitch the back edge of interlining and facing together.

6. Join side pocket stays.

Join side pocket stays, with the bottom edge turned up 3/8 inch, shall be attached to the outseam with a 1/8 inch seam at the raw edge. It may also be attached in the overedge operation.

301 SSa-1 A A

7. Make side pockets.

a. Place facing and bearer on pocketing and stitch along the inner side, with raw edge turned in, and across the lower end. A selvage edge need not be turned in.

301 LSd-1 and LSbj-1

A A

NOTE: When using automatic equipment, the facing and bearer may be straight stitched along the inner side with the raw edge turned in from the top to the bottom.

8. Attach side pockets.

Finished appearance: The edges of the pocket opening shall not be distorted. Pocket openings shall be aligned, uniform in length, and shall measure not less than 5-3/4 inches nor more than 6-1/2 inches between bartacks. Avoid notching the pocket or underside beyond the width of the seam allowance.

TABLE V. Manufacturing operations - Continued.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

8.

Cont’d

a. Seam side pocket to front, as indicated by marks on pattern. Notch for pocket opening, turn to finished position with the seam to the back of the front edge and stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from edge.

301 SSe-2 A A

b. Fold pocket right-side-out and seam raw edges from step to folded edge of pocketing.

Notch pocket and facing to top of step and turn pocket.

301 A A

c. Tack ends of the openings to the bearer with a ¼ to 3/8 inch tack. The right and left pocket openings shall not be out of alignment by more than ½ inch.

301 --- A A

9. Join outseams.

Finished appearance. Outseams shall be carefully joined with notches matching and without twists, puckers or pleats. The seams shall start and finish evenly and lie smooth and flat.

a. Join the outseam with a 1/2 inch seam, matching the notches as indicated by marks on the patterns, joining the back pocket bearer to the front at the side seam and catching the side pocket stay with its bottom end turned up (if not previously caught in overedge operation).

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

30/3 30/3

30/3 30/3

b. Spread open the outseams from top edge of slacks to bottom and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine with the pocket stay folded and pressed flat over the open seam.

10. Finish side pockets.

a. Turn under the back edge of side pocket and position in line with and the folded edge of the stay piece and stitch pocket to stay piece 1/4 inch

301 and

SSc-1 SSe-2

A A

A A

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

10.

Cont’d to 3/8 inch from edge along the side seam allowance. Continue stitching along the side seamed edge of pocket to folded edge of pocket and securely backstitch end of stitching.

11. Make waistband.

Finished appearance. The two piece waistband shall be constructed with left and right parts.

Each part shall consist of 1-ply of basic material and 1-ply of interlining The left waistband shall have a pointed front end and the right waistband shall have a square end. The center back of the waistbands shall have square ends.

a. Overedge stitch the inside raw edge of left and right waistbands, and interlinings.

EFd-1 70/2 70/2

b. Fold the right waist-band in half lengthwise face to face with ends even. Finish each square end with a 1/4-inch seam, turning up 1/4 inch of raw edge and seaming across the width of the waistband through all plies to close the ends.

301 SSe-2 (a)

A A

c. Trim the excess material at each end to 1/8 inch from the seams. Turn the right and left waistbands, forcing out the corners completely.

Edgestitch 1/16 inch from the seamed edges at the squared ends.

301 SSe-2 (b)

A A

d. Continue to edge-stitch along the length of the waistband 1/16 inch from the upper folded edge.

e. The edgestitching may be performed continuously with the top stitching on the outside of the waistband in operation 18 a

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

12. Join inseams.

a. Match notches at front and back of inseam and join with a 1/2-inch seam from notch to bottom.

301 or

SSa-1 A A

b. Press inseam open and flat.

13. Make left fly.

Finished appearance. The left fly shall finish smooth and flat without twists, puckering or distortion. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

a. Position the zipper on the left fly facing and left fly interlining with bottom end of chain 1/4 inch above the fly notch and top edges even. The front edge of chain shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from front edge of finished fly. Stitch zipper tape to the fly through the interlining with a double row of stitches 3/16 to 1/4 inch gage.

301 LSbj-2 A A

14. Make right fly.

Finished appearance. The right fly shall finish without bulkiness, twists, puckers or pleats.

a. Position the zipper on the fly with the zipper tape 1/2 inch from the overedged seam and the top edges even. Stitch the zipper to the fly 1/2 inch from the back edge of fly.

301 LSbj-2 A A

15. Join left and right fly to front.

Finished appearance. The seam joining the fly assemblies to the front shall be without pleats, puckers, twists or other distortions.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

15.

Cont’d

a. Position the right fly assembly on the outside of right front, face to face, with notches matching. Join right fly assembly to front with a 1/2-inch seam.

b. Turn joining seam on to fly assembly and stitch 1/16 inch from seamed edge starting at top raw edge of fly and stitching to the notch.

301 LSb-1 A A

c. Turn right fly to the inside with joining seam 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of folded edge. Press front edge without damage to the fastener, forcing out the seams to the edge.

d. Stitch right fly to right front, starting at the top and continuing with a curve to the bottom notch. The stitching shall be 1-1/4 ± 1/8 inches from the front edge of the fly.

e. Position right fly assembly on right front face to face with overedged edges and top raw edges even. Join with a 1/2-inch seam.

f. Press right and left fly flat with heated pressing iron, with the seam toward the side seam.

g. Edge stitch 1/16 inch from the front seamed edge, through the slide fastener tape and the placket.

301 LSq-2 (b)

A A

16. Join waistband to slacks.

Finished appearance. The waistband shall be joined without twists, puckers, pleats or distortions. The back square ends of the waistband shall be even with the seat seams.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

16.

Cont’d

a. Position the left waistband on the left front, face to face with the notch and finished left fly opening matching. Join together with a 3/8-inch seam.

b. Position the right and left waistband on the outside of slacks, face to face with square ends and folded edges of flies even. Join together with a 3/8-inch seam.

17. Attach hook and eye.

Finished appearance. In the finished trousers, when hook and eye is engaged, the closure shall not bulge, pucker or twist.

a. Position the hook at the center (1/4 inch off center tolerance) of the right waistband with the rolled edge of hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach hook to right waistband through a suitable reinforcement.

b. Position the eye at the center of the left waistband aligned with slide fastener scoops and to correspond with hook and on right waistband.

Attach eye to left waistband through a suitable reinforcement.

18. Topstitch waistband.

Finished appearance. The waistband shall be sewn on smoothly and evenly and shall have a flat appearance throughout, without gathers, puckers, pleats or other distortions either in the waistband, front part or back part, and shall be even in width along the entire lengths The waistband shall be 1-3/8 ± 1/8 inches wide.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

18.

Cont’d

a. Topstitch the waistband to the slacks 1/16 inch from the lower folded edge, catching the overedge stitched portion of waistband in the stitching, and with the stitching extending the entire length of the waistband.

301 BSr-2 (a)

A A

19. Join crotch and seat seam.

Finished appearance. The crotch and seat seams shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet strain encountered in sitting and stooping. The waist shall be measured before joining crotch and seat seam to assure correct waist size. In the finished slacks, the inseams shall meet and the right and left waistband joining seams shall be aligned; the base of the left fly shall cover the right fly on the outside.

a. Measure waist to proper size before joining crotch, seat and waist seam.

b. Join crotch and seat seams from the base of the fly to the notch with a 1/2-inch seam, tapering from the notch through waistband to accomplish the measured size and leaving a tail of stitching 3/4 to 1 inch long.

401 SSa-1 A A

c. Spread open crotch and seat seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine tucking in the stitching tail under the pressed open seat seam.

d. The inseam at the crotch shall not be staggered by more than 1/4 inch.

e. Fold over pressed crotch seams and waistband using the tuck under method. Finish waistband by topstitching at top to secure waistband.

301 LSq-1 A A

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

20. Bartack fly and pockets.

Finished appearance. The bartacks shall be properly positioned and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and shall be stitched through all plies of material at the point of bartacking.

a. Bartack the bottom end of the fly horizontally through all plies at the juncture of the crotch seam and fly.

Bartack 0 0

b. Bartack the inside front edge of right fly to back of left fly with a horizontal bartack. Bartack shall be 1 ± 1/4 inch from bottom folded point of right fly.

Bartack 0 0

c. Bartack the ends of pockets openings with a horizontal bartack. Bartack shall extend 1/16 to 1/8 inch beyond outseam.

Bartack 0 0

21. Finish slack bottoms.

a. Overedge stitch or pink the slack bottoms.

22. Make buttonhole.

Finished appearance. The buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned.

The stitching shall be securely caught in the basic material. The buttonhole shall be well worked over gimp to fit a 27-line button.

a. Make an eyelet-end taper-bar type buttonhole with a ¾ inch cut opening, through left French fly, with the front edge of cut opening 5/8 inch from finished edge and ¼ inch below waistband joining seam.

Btnhl 0 0

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

THREAD

NDL BOB/

23. Clean slack.

a. Remove any basting threads. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed and all loose threads removed from slacks.

b. Any spots, stains and shade tickets or markings shall be removed without injury to the material.

24. Sew on button.

Finished appearance: The finished slack when closed shall lie smooth and flat without twisting, bulging, or other distortions.

a. Sew a 27 ligne button on the inside of right waistband to correspond with buttonhole in French fly. The button shall be sewn through inside ply of waistband only.

101 or Hand

20/4

c. Securely sew a 27- line button at the mark.

The thread ends of hand sewn buttons shall be securely tacked. The button shall be sewn through all plies of waistband.

20/4 20/4 20/4 10/4

25. Press slacks.

a. The tops shall be pressed smooth.

b. The legs shall be pressed smooth and creased in the center with the seams matching at the bottom and in the crotch.

3.10 Finished measurement. Finished measurements of slacks shall be as specified in Table IV and finished inseam lengths as specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII Finished measurements.

Size

Waist1/

Hips2/ Length Outseam 3/ Junior Misses Women Petite Regular Tall

0X 22-1/2 - 34-1/2 - - 44-3/8 - 2 23-1/2 - 35-1/2 - - 44-1/2 - 4 24-1/2 - 36-1/2 - - 44-5/8 - 6 25-1/2 35 37-1/2 39-1/2 - 44-3/4 47-3/4 8 26-1/2 36-1/2 38-1/2 40-1/2 41-7/8 44-7/8 47-7/8

10 28 38 40 42 42 45 48 12 29-1/2 39-1/2 41-1/2 43-1/2 42-1/8 45-1/8 48-1/8 14 31 41 43 45 42-1/4 45-1/4 48-1/4 16 33 43 45 47 42-3/8 45-3/8 48-3/8 18 35 45 47 49 - 45-1/2 48-1/2

Tolerance ± 3/8 + 3/8 ± 3/8 ± 3/8 ± 3/8 ± 3/8 ± 3/8

Footnotes:

1/ Waist. - Twice the measurement taken across center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Hip. - Twice the measurement taken across slack from folded edge to folded edge, measured at 6 inches down center of front from bottom of waistband for Junior, at 7 inches for Misses, and at 8 inches for Women.

3/ Outseam. – Measurement taken from bottom edge of waistband along side seam to unhemmed bottom of leg.

TABLE V. Finished measurement-Inseam length. (inches).

Length (All Sizes) Inseam 1/ Petite 33

Regular 35 Tall 37

Tolerance + 3/8

Footnote:

1/ Inseam - Measurement taken along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed leg bottom.

3.11 Toxicity. The finished slack shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.4. The use of chemicals recognized by the EPA as human carcinogens are prohibited.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished slacks shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable point value or defect limit specified in the contract or purchase order.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.3).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.2. Inspection methods. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.

4.3 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it shall be examined for the applicable end item visual and dimensional defects in accordance with the sampling and inspection provisions in MIL-STD-656.

4.4 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.

4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.4.2 In-process inspection. Inspections shall be performed during the manufacturing of the end item to ascertain that the operations are performed as specified herein. The Government reserves the right to determine the acceptability of construction methods not performed in accordance with specified requirements for operations or subassemblies.

4.4.3 End item examination Samplings and examination of the end item shall be performed for dress (D) slacks in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-656.

4.4.3.1 Finished measurement examination. The provisions for the finished measurement examination of the finished slacks shall be as specified in MIL-STD-656 and as outlined in 3.7.

4.4.4 Toxicity test. When required, an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the material is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If toxicity requirement (see 3.14) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The slacks are intended for wear by female personnel of the Marine Corps.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Classes, body style, sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).

c. NSNs and UPC requirements (3.4.2)

d. When first article inspection is required (see 3.2).

e. Packaging and packing requirements (5.1)

f. When toxicity testing is required (3.14)

6.3 Shade samples. To obtain information regarding the availability of shade samples, address inquiry to the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids.

6.4 First article. When a first article is required, it should be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209 and the requirements of this specification. The samples presented for inspection may be first articles, preproduction samples, first production of samples taken from the first lot depending on the contractor's history and will be as directed by the Contracting Officer. The Contracting Officer should include specific instructions in all acquisition instruments regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Female Pants Dress Uniform

6.6 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extensiveness of the changes.

Front Back

FIGURE 1. Slack

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC DLA-CT DLA-CT (Project number: 8410-2019-005)

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document.

Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.