Product Description.pdf

ASCE-LWP-CU 9 December 2019

REVISIONS /ADDITIONS TO:

MOCK ELASTIQUE POLYESTER WOOL, 12.5 OZ. CADET GRAY 372

NATICK PURCHASE DESCRIPTION #370A (8 APRIL 1974)

This change supersedes all previous revisions to PD# 370A (8 April 1974)

Section 2. Applicable Documents. - 2.1. The documents listed are based on most current information available or superseded industry equivalent standards of ASTM or AATCC. US Army

Natick RD&E Enter, Kansas Street, Natick MA may be contacted for most current publications.

Section 3.3 Color. - The color of the cloth shall be Cadet Gray 372 and shall match the USMA Standard

Color Sample. The color shall be obtained by stock dyeing or top dyeing. The USMA

Standard Color Sample is available from The Cadet Uniform Factory USMA.

Section 3.3.2. Matching. – The color of the finished cloth shall match the color of the USMA Standard

Color Sample under natural (north shy) daylight or artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500o

Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the USMA Standard Color Sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800o Kelvin.

Section 3.6. Shrinkage in Sponging. – The finished cloth shall be cold water sponged. The finished cloth shall show no greater shrinkage than 2.5 percent in the warp and 1.5 percent in the filling when tested as specified in 4.3. The contractor shall invoice deliveries by Net Linear Yardage. Net Linear Yardage is the number of linear yards of finished cloth after cold sponging and all finishing processes are complete.

Section 3.8. Length and put-up. – Additional information as follows:

The government prefers finished cloth be put up on rolls of between 85 and 100 yards. No roll that contains a piece of finished cloth less than 50 continuous yards in length shall be accepted at full offered price per yard. The contractor shall specify the percentage of discount off the price per yard for pieces of cloth less measuring than 50 continuous yards in length. Failure to do so may be cause for rejection of bid. Pieces less than 25 yards in continuous length and rolls containing more than one continuous piece shall not be accepted. Two or more pieces joined together regardless of length will not be accepted. The contractor shall complete Table 1 as part of their bid submission. Failure to do so may be cause for rejection of the bid.

Table 1.

Net Length of

Piece

Maximum number of rolls which can be accepted or % of Total yardage

Indicate Discounts per yard.

10 – 26 7/8 yards Six (6)

27 -37 7/8 yards The fewer total yards of either twelve (12) rolls or 2% of order

38-49 7/8 yards 10% of order

Table II of PD 370 A – Component Tests. – The test method for Characteristic “Denier” will be STM-D-

1907.

Section 5. Preparation for Delivery. – Revise PD 370A Section 5 in total with:

Section 5.1. Packaging - Each piece of cloth shall be rolled onto a sufficiently sturdy and smooth commercial cardboard tube as to not crush in storage or shipping of the cloth. Exterior end of each roll shall be secured within the package as not to unroll or unfurl. Each roll shall be enclosed in a commercial clear tubular bag of polyethylene film or other suitable clear material to protect the cloth from soiling and degradation in shipping and storage. Bags shall be closed with mechanical ties (twist-ties or cable ties) of suitable weight to secure the closure of the bag through shipping and storage.

Section 5.2. Marking. - Each roll shall have a Piece Ticket affixed to the cloth roll selvage at the end of the roll with a cotton string or a plastic tag hanger. The Piece Ticket shall have a reinforced eyelet and shall be legibly printed, using water insoluble ink, with the Cloth Description “C0150” and the net

(sponged) linear yardage of the finished cloth on the roll.

Section 5.2.1.Identification Tag. - Each clear tubular bag shall be marked with an Identification Tag. The

Identification Tag shall indicate the Contractor Name, Contractor address, Contract Number, Cloth

Contents, the Cloth Description “C0150”, and the Net (sponged) Linear Yardage of cloth contained therein. Contractor may choose to include on the Identification Tag additional information such as a

“piece number”, bar codes, or other identification nomenclature for their purposes. Identification Tags shall have minimum dimensions of 2.5 inches x 4 inches and shall be completely legible as affixed to the bag. The Identification Tag shall be affixed to the bag approximately 1 inch in from the selvage edge of the roll closest to the bag opening.

Section 5.3. Delivery Address. – The contractor shall address all shipments of finished cloth to:

USMA Logistics Warehouse

917 Washington Road

West Point, NY 10996.

Table III of PD 370 A. Test Methods. – Only Test Method changes are noted below. All other

Characteristic tests remain the same.

Characteristic Test Method

Fiber percentage AATC #20A

Color Fastness:

Delete “West dry cl3eaning” Delete “5622”

Crocking AATCC #8

Perspiration AATCC #15

Light AATCC #16 Option A

Weight ASTM # 3776 Option C

Yarns per Inch:

Warp ASTM 3775

Filling ASTM 3775

Breaking Strength:

Warp ASTM 5034

Filling ASTM 5034

Pilling ASTM 3511 3/

Ph AATCC #81

Shrinkage

Warp AATCC # 99 Paragraph #7

Filling AATCC #99 Paragraph #7

Selvage Thickness ASTM #1777

Footnote 3/: Delete method 5320 and replace with ASTM 3511.

Section 6.1. - Intended Use – Finished Mock Elastique cloth will be used to manufacture USMA Cadet

Mock Elastique Trousers and Skirts worn by the United States Corps of Cadets attending the United

States Military Academy. Trousers and skirts made from this cloth are worn during more temperate seasons in lieu of trousers made from 19 oz., 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray Elastique cloth. The 19 oz., 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray cloth is the sole shell-cloth used for Cadet Dress Uniform coats. The

Mock Elastique cloth is intended to mimic or “mock” the appearance of the 19 oz Cadet Gray 100% worsted wool Elastique cloth so that garments will match both these cloths. The USMA Standard Color

Sample therefore is 19 oz 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray Elastique cloth.

Section 6.3 – Successful contractor will be furnished by the contracting officer or designated representative a swatch of the USMA Standard Color Sample no less than 4” in warp and 6” weft directions upon Contract Award.

Section 7. Pre-Production Sample. - The contractor shall provide a five (5) yard finished, sponged preproduction sample to:

USMA, Cadet Uniform Factory

687 Hardee Place

West Point, NY

10996.

The requirement for a Pre-Production Sample may be waived at the Government’s discretion based on contactor’s history of successfully suppling cloth meeting this description.

The pre-production sample if required will be tested for physical characteristics in this purchase description.