Gray_Dress_Shirts__Over_Blouse_Combined_PD_Aug_2015.docx

US MILITARY ACADEMY PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

NUMBER

1. Scope

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers polyester/wool shirts.

Schedule of Sizes

Type I

Type II

Type IV

Page | 4

2.0 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Issues of documents. The following documents of the issue shall be in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein:

SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

MILITARY

STANDARDS FEDERAL

FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitching

MILITARY

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

2.2 Other publication. The following document forms a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on the date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply:

Standard Color Card of America, 9th Edition

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Textile Color Card Association of the United States, Inc., 300 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016.)

3.0 REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 7.3). Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample in which case this purchase description shall govern.

3.2 Material.

3.2.1 Basic Material. Type I and Type II This basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 3940

3.2.1.1 Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray)

3.2.1.2 Weave: Plain

3.2.1.3 Weight: 4.4 to 4.8 ounces per square yard

3.2.1.4 Fiber Content: 80% Polyester, 20% Wool

3.2.1.5 Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

3.2.1.6 Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.1.7 Construction: minimum 65 Ends per inch and 59 Picks per inch

3.2.2 Basic Material. Type IV The basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 971.

3.2.2.1 Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray)

3.2.2.2 Weave: Plain

3.2.2.3 Weight: 4.6 to 5.0 ounces per square yard

3.2.2.4 Fiber Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool

3.2.2.5 Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

3.2.2.6 Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.2.7 Construction: minimum 60 ends per inch, 50 picks per inch.

3.3. Interlining. The fusible interlining for collar, collar-stand, pocket flaps, loops (straps) and cuff shall conform to type V, Style B, Class 3 of MIL-CL4429. The color shall be charcoal or black. When tested as specified, the fusibles shall meet the initial and laundered bonding strength requirements specified in MIL-C-44296 when fused to the basic material. Note: As an alternate, a stitched-in non-fusible polyester fiber cloth interlining conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. The color shall be black or charcoal.

3.4 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 70, conforming to MIL-T-43548 or spun polyester 70, 2 or 3-ply, conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-T-43624.

3.4.1 Color and colorfastness. The color of the thread shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043. The thread shall show colorfastness to laundering, perspiration, and light, equal to or better that the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light.

3.5 Buttons. Buttons shall conform to the type II; class K, style 25, 19-line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be shade BT, Cable 62001.

3.6 Labels. The contractor shall furnish labels on each shirt.

3.6.1 The Identification Label is to be approximately 2 ½” x 1 ¼” with the following format:

USMA, LSSO DIV.

West Point, NY Name:

Date:

3.6.2.1. An Instruction Label approximately 1 ¼” x 1 ¼” shall be positioned below the identification label; and contain the following information:

TYPE I and TYPE II 80% Polyester/20% Wool Machine was in warm with like colors. Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed. Tumble dry warm, arm iron when needed. May also be Dry Cleaned.

3.6.3. The Size Label shall be approximately ¾” x ¾” and positioned inside the shirt on the center back under the collar.

3.7. Collar Stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene, tere-phthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010. One end shall be rounded and the other end tapered with the point rounded.

3.8. Design.

3.8.1. Type I. The shirt has grown-on front facings, two patch pockets with button-through flaps, open style collar, short sleeves, and shoulder straps. The buttons shall be on the right side of the shirt.

3.8.2 Type II. The shirt has grown-on front facings, two patch pockets with button-through flaps, open style collar, short sleeves, and shoulder straps. Only sleeve creases are allowed. The buttons shall be on the left side of the shirt.

3.8.3 Type III. *** Deleted ***

3.8.4 Type IV. The shirt has grown-on front facings, two patch pockets with button-through flaps, closed style collar with collar stand for wear with a tie or neck-tab, Velcro loop pieces measuring ¾” x ¾” on exterior collar stand, long sleeves, and shoulder straps. Only sleeve creases are allowed. The buttons shall be on the left side of the shirt.

3.9. Patterns. Standard Patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, which shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for safety-stitched seams and ¼ inch for making the collar, pocket flaps, and shoulder straps, and 3/8 inch for all other seams.

3.9.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated.

TABLE I. List of pattern parts

A. Type: I & II (Short Sleeve)

Back Pocket Collar 1/

Shoulder strap 3/ Pocket flap 2/ Front (type II) Side front (type II)

Collar interlining 1/ Pocket flap interlining 2/ Shoulder strap interlining 3/

B. Type: IV (Long Sleeve)

Basic Material

Polyester interlining Front (type IV) Side front (type IV) Front (type III) Back Pocket Collar 1/ Collar Stand Sleeve, long Shoulder strap 3/ Pocket flap 2/ Cuff (type III) 4/ Cuff (type IV) 4/ Bottom Sleeve vent (binding)

Collar interlining 1/ Pocket flap interlining 2/ Shoulder strap interlining 3/ Cuff interlining (type III) 4/ Cuff interlining (type IV) 4/

3.10. Construction

3.10.1 Stitches, seam, and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods of seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 402 is used, the looper (under- thread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained (see 6.4), so that there will be no tight or loose tension. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gagged throughout the shirt. On safety stitch seams, the width of the overedge stitching shall be 5/64 to 1/8 inch and the seaming shall be ¼ inch from the overedge stitch. The guides and knives on the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.10.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than ¼ inch. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than ½ inch, except that the ends of label stitching shall overlap not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than ½ inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on the 401- stitch type may be repaired using 301-stitch type.

3.10.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be specified in table II.

3.10.4. Buttonholes. Buttonholes shall be 5/8 inch finished cut length, purl, straight cut type, with the material securely caught in the stitching, and the ends tacked. Purling shall be on the outside of the shirt.

3.10.5. Velcro Loop Pieces. Collar stands for Type IV shirts shall have ¾” square Loop & Fastener Loop pieces set into each side for use in attaching Neck Tabs. Loop pieces to be centered vertically with the inner edge of the loop pieces set 2 3/8” in from edge of collar band.

3.11. Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations requirements specified in table II. The contractor is not required to follow the sequence of operations. Any basting or holding stitching required to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished shirt.

3.11.1 Marking. The component parts of the shirt shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

3.11.2. Pressing. All pressing specified in table II shall be done by a heated pressing iron or machine

No.

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

PER INCH

THREAD

LOOPER

COVER

1.

2.

Type I

Cutting.

a. Spread the material without tension. The parts from the top and bottom plies shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Cut the shirts in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and pocket flaps, and notches for proper assembling of all parts. Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction. The fronts for types I shall be cut with the edge of the grown-on facings on the selvage. If not cut on the selvage allow ¼ inch for turn under (see 14.a), or overedge stitch.

c. Cut parts from same piece of the basic material, except the under-collar and the under parts of the pocket flaps and shoulder straps which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the other parts.

Marking.

Mark, ticket or bundle all component parts of shirt, except those cut from ends, to insure correct size and a uniform shade throughout the shirts.

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

3.

4.

5.

Replacement of defective or damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages as specified in MIL-STD-1492 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Labeling.

a. Position Size Label at center back under the collar. A ¼ inch off center tolerance in either direction is permitted.

b. Position Identification Label centered 4 inches from the bottom on left facing.

c. Position Instruction Label below Identification Label.

Make collar.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of collar in accordance with directions furnished by fusing contractor.

b. Seam and fused top collar to undercollar around top and side edges.

c. Trim collar points; turn and work out points.

d. Edge stitch top and sides of collar 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

e. Press entire collar flat.

301 or

SSa-1

LSbj-1

SSe-2(a) SSe-2(a)

SSe-2(b)

8-12

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCH TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

NEEDLE

BOBBIN/

COVER

6.

7.

Make shoulder straps.

Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The buttonhole shall be clean cut and correctly positioned.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of shoulder strap in accordance with directions furnished by fusing contractor

b. Join the two plies of the shoulder strap around all edges except armhole end.

c. Turn strap; work out points and edge stitch along sides and point, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

d. Make a buttonhole in the center of each strap (1/8 inch off center tolerance) with the end of the buttonhole ¼ to 3/8 inch from point of strap (see 3.10.4).

e. Finished strap width shall be 1 ¾” wide just before the point begins and 2 1/8” wide at the armhole end. (+/- 1/8)

Make patch pockets.

Overedge stitch the raw edges of top of pocket, and turn back top edges of pockets as indicated by marks on patterns.

502 or

EFd-1

44-52 per buttonhole including tack

6-10

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCH TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

BOBBIN/

8.

9.

Make pocket flaps.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of flap in accordance with directions furnished by fusing contractor.

b. Seam top flap to underflap along bottom and sides; turn and edge stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from side and bottom edges.

c. Make one vertical buttonhole in the center of each flap (1/8 inch off-center tolerance) with the lower inside edge 3/8 to ½ inch from bottom edge of flap.

Set pockets and flaps.

a. Stitch pockets on fronts, as indicated by marks on patterns, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge, continuing stitching ¼ to 3/8 inch across top of pockets and ½ to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of 1/16 inch stitching. Do not catch front facing in stitching. The pockets may be creased on an edge-creasing machine.

b. Stitch pocket flap above top of pocket as indicated by marks on pattern, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge. Turn down flap and raise stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from turned edge with the ends of the flap tacked. Pockets and flaps shall be in parallel alignment with each other and front edge of shirt and edges of pocket openings shall be covered by flap. The distance between the pockets and flaps on the finished shirt shall be a minimum of 5/8 inch.

401 and

SSe-2(a) SSe-2(a) SSe-2(b)

LSd-1 and SSv-1

LSb1-1

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STICHES

THREAD

COVER

10.

11.

12.

13.

Join shoulder seams.

a. Position fronts on the back with the edges even, and join the shoulders.

b. Turn seam toward the back and raise the stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from joining seam.

Attach shoulder straps.

Position shoulder strap with the point ¼ + 1/8 inch from the collar joining seam. The front edge of the straps shall be positioned ½ + 1/8 inch forward of the shoulder seam and stitch 1/8 to ¼ inch from raw edge.

NOTE: If strap is excess in length, trim the shoulder strap even with armhole seam before stitching.

Set Sleeves.

Set sleeve to armhole and join with safety stitch catching the raw edges of the shoulder strap in the seaming.

Join side and underarm seams.

Safety stitch side and sleeve seams in a continuous operation. Armhole seam shall meet at underarm seam (1/4 inch tolerance).

515 or 516 or

515 or

515 or 516 or 519

SSa-2

70 (chain stitch) 70 (overedge stitching)

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCH TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

BOBBIN/

14.

Join collar to shirt.

a. If facing is not cut on selvage, turn in raw edge ¼ inch and stitch (see operation 1.b).

- or -

e. With center back notches matching, seam across step and gorge for a distance of 3 ½ inches + ¼ inch from front notch.

f. Notch collar through facings and fronts.

g. Seam undercollar (from one end to the other end, where notched) to neck of shirt.

h. Turn facings, work out steps. Turn under bottom edge of top collat. Insert the unsown portions of the top of facings under the top collar and stitch collar, catching the unsown ends of facings, to neck, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge and size label.

i. Press front edges, gorges, and neck of shirt.

502 or

EFa-1

LScf-2

8-10

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCH TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

BOBBIN/

15.

16.

17.

18.

Hem sleeves.

Turn under bottom edge of sleeve, with raw edge turned in and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. The finished hem shall measure 1 + 1/8 inches wide.

(NOTE: The hemming of sleeve shall be performed after joining underarm seam.)

Hem shirt bottom.

Turn up bottom of shirt ¼ to 3/8 inch with raw edge turned in and stitch. Side seam allowances shall be turned in same direction as at sleeve hems.

Make buttonholes in front.

Make five vertical buttonholes as indicated by marks on pattern, positioned ¾ + 1/8 inch in from front edge (see 3.10.4). The buttonholes shall be located on the left side of the shirt.

Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance. Buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with corresponding buttonholes to affect a smooth closure.

a. Position and sew in the following positions:

Or

EFb-1

10-14

14-16 per button

TABLE II (Type I)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

BOBBIN/

19.

20.

Clean shirts.

Trim all ends of thread and remove loose threads. Remove all spots, stains, and all visible shade markings.

Press and prepare for packaging.

Page | 14

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Type II Cutting.

a. Spread the material without tension. The parts from the top and button plies shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Cut the shirts in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and pocket flaps, and notches for proper assembling of all parts.

Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction.

c. Cut parts from same piece of the basic material, except the undercollar and the under parts of the pocket flaps and shoulder straps which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the other parts.

Marking.

Mark, ticket or bundle all component parts of shirt, except those cut from ends, to insure correct size and a uniform shade throughout the shirt.

TABLE II (Type II)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Replacement of defective or damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages as specified in MIL-STD-1492 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Labeling.

Make collar.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of collar in accordance with directions furnished by fusing contractor.

b. Seam and fused top collar to undercollar around top and side edges.

c. Trim collar points; turn and work out points.

d. Edge stitch top and sides of collar 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. e. Press entire collar flat.

8-14

TABLE II (Type II)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Make shoulder straps.

Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and correctly positioned.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of shoulder straps in accordance with directions furnished by fusing contractor.

b. Join the two plies of the shoulder strap around all edges except armhole end.

c. Turn strap; work out points and edge stitch along sides and point, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

d. Make a buttonhole in the center of each strap (1/8 inch off- center tolerance) with the end of the buttonhole ¼ to 3/8 inch from point of strap (see 3.10.4).

e. Finished strap width shall be 1 ¾” wide just before the point begins and 2 1/8” wide at the armhole end. (+/- 1/8)

Attach fronts to side fronts.

a. Join fronts to side fronts face to face and simultaneously stitch and overedge raw edges in one continuous operation.

- or -

301 or 401

LSq-2(a)

70 (chain stitching) 70 (over- edging)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Attach fronts to side fronts. (continued)

b. Operation “a” may be performed in two (2) separate sequences. c. Turn seam allowance towards fronts, and top stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from the folded edge.

d. Overedge stitch outer raw edge of fronts, which shall form the facings.

Overedge stitch the raw edge of top of pocket, and turn back top edges of pockets as indicated by marks on patterns.

Make pocket flaps.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of the pocket flap in accordance with the directions for fusing furnished by the fusible contractor.

b. Seam the top flaps to the under flaps along bottom and sides; turn and edge stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from side and bottom edges.

c. Make one vertical buttonhole in the center of each flap (1/8 inch off-center tolerance) with the lower inside edge 3/8 to ½ inch from bottom edge of flap.

502 or 503 or 504

502 or 503

301 or 401 and 301

LSq-2(b) EFd-1

8-12

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Set pockets and flaps.

a. Stitch pockets on fronts, as indicated by marks on patterns, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge continuing stitching ¼ to 3/8 inch across top of pockets and ½ to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of 1/16 inch stitching. Do not catch front facing in stitching.

b. Stitch pocket flap above top of pocket as indicated by marks on pattern, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge. Turn down flap and raise stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from turned edge with the ends of the flap tacked. Pockets and flaps shall be in the parallel alignment with each other and front edge of shirt and ends of pocket openings shall be covered by flap. The distance between the pockets and flaps on the finished shirt shall be a minimum of 5/8 inch.

Join shoulder seams.

a. Position fronts on the back with edges even, seam plies together.

b. Turn seam allowance toward the back and raise stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from joining seam.

Attach shoulder straps.

Position shoulder strap with the point ¼ + 1/8 inch from the collar joining seam. Then front edge of the straps shall be positioned ½ + 1/8 inch forward of the shoulder seam and stitch 1/8 to ¼ inch from raw edge.

NOTE: If strap is excess in length, trim the shoulder strap even with armhole seam before stitching.

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

LOOPER

COVER

13.

Set sleeves.

Set sleeve to armhole and join with a safety stitch catching the raw edges of the shoulder strap in the seaming.

Join side and underarm, seams.

Safety stitch side and sleeve seams in a continuous operation. Armhole seam shall meet at underarm seam (¼ inch tolerance).

Join collar to shirt.

516 or 519

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Hem sleeves.

Turn under bottom edge of sleeve, with raw edge turned in, and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. The finished hem shall measure 1 + 1/8 inched wide.

(NOTE: The hemming of sleeve shall be performed after joining underarm seam.)

Hem shirt bottom.

Turn up bottom of shirt ¼ to 3/8 inch with raw edge turned in and stitch. Side seam allowances shall be turned in same direction as at sleeve hems.

Make buttonholes in front.

a. Make five vertical buttonholes as indicated by marks on pattern, positioned ¾ + 1/8 inch in from front edge (see 3.10.4). The buttonholes shall be located on the right side of the shirt.

Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance. Buttons shall be sewn securely and properly aligned with corresponding buttonholes to effect a smooth closure.

Efb-1

10-14

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Sew on buttons. (continued)

a. Position and sew buttons in the following positions:

3. One on each shoulder seam.

Press and prepare for packaging.

Press shirt.

Button shirt and fold for packaging.

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Type IV Cutting.

a. Spread the material without tension. The parts from the top and button plies shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Cut the shirts in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and pocket flaps, and notches for proper assembling of all parts.

Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction.

c. Cut parts from same piece of the basic material, except the undercollar and the under parts of the cuff, pocket flaps, binding for sleeve opening, and shoulder straps which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the other parts.

Marking.

Mark, ticket or bundle all component parts of shirt, except those cut from ends, to insure correct size and a uniform shade throughout the shirt.

Replacement of defective or damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages as specified in MIL-STD-1492 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Labeling.

Make collar.

Make cuffs.

SSe-a(a) SSe-a(a)

SSe-a(b)

42-46 per buttonhole including tack

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Make shoulder straps.

Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall finish smooth and flat and uniform construction and placement. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and correctly positioned.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the shoulder strap in accordance with directions for fusing furnished by fusible contractor.

b. Join the two plies of the shoulder strap around all edges except armhole end.

c. Turn strap; work out points and edge stitch along sides and point, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

d. Make a buttonhole in the center of each strap (1/8 inch off center tolerance) with the end of the buttonhole ¼ to 3/8 inch from point of strap (see 3.6.4).

e. Finished strap width shall be 1 ¾” wide just before the point begins and 2 1/8” wide at the armhole end. (+/- 1/8)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Attach fronts to side fronts.

a. Join fronts to side fronts face to face and simultaneously stitch and overedge raw edges in one continuous operation.

- or -

b. Operation “a” may be performed in two (2) separate sequences. c. Turn seam allowance towards fronts, and top stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from the folded edge.

d. Overedge stitch outer raw edge of fronts, which shall form the facings.

Overedge stitch the raw edge of top of pocket, and turn back top edges of pockets as indicated by marks on patterns.

Make pocket flaps.

a. Fuse interlining to the underside of the top ply of flaps in accordance with the directions for fusing furnished by the fusible contractor.

b. Seam the top flaps to the under flaps along bottom and sides; turn and edge stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from side and bottom edges.

c. Make one vertical buttonhole in the center of each flap (1/8 inch off-center tolerance) with the lower inside edge 3/8 to ½ inch from bottom edge of flap.

502 or 503 or 504

301 or 401 and 301

LSq-2(a)

LSq-2(b) EFd-1

10-12

TABLE II (Type IV)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

Set pockets and flaps.

a. Stitch pockets on fronts, as indicated by marks on patterns, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge continuing stitching ¼ to 3/8 inch across top of pockets and ½ to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of 1/16 inch stitching. Do not catch front facing in stitching.

b. Stitch pocket flap above top of pocket as indicated by marks on pattern, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge. Turn down flap and raise stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from turned edge with the ends of the flap tacked. Pockets and flaps shall be in the parallel alignment with each other and front edge of shirt and ends of pocket openings shall be covered by flap. The distance between the pockets and flaps on the finished shirt shall be a minimum of 5/8 inch.

Join shoulder seams.

a. Position fronts on the back with edges even, seam plies together.

b. Turn seam allowance toward the back and raise stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from joining seam.

TABLE II (Type IV)

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

13.

Make sleeve opening.

1/8 inch wide.

Attach shoulder straps.

Position shoulder strap with the point ¼ + 1/8 inch from the collar joining seam. The front edge of the straps shall be positioned ½ + 1/8 inch forward of the shoulder seam and stitch 1/8 to ¼ inch from raw edge.

NOTE: If strap is excess in length, trim the shoulder strap even with armhole seam before stitching.

Set sleeves.

Set sleeves to armhole and join with a safety stitch catching the raw edges of the shoulder strap in the seaming.

BSc-1

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

PERINCH

THREAD

COVER

Join side and underarm seam.

Safety stitch side sleeve seams in a continuous operation. Armhole seam shall meet at underarm seam (1/4 inch tolerance.)

Join cuff to sleeves.

Join collar to shirt.

Hem shirt bottom.

Turn up bottom of shirt ¼ to 3/8 inch with raw edge turned in and stitch. Side seam allowances shall be turned in same direction as at sleeve hems.

LSb-1

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

THREAD

COVER

21.

22.

23.

Make buttonholes in front.

a. Make one buttonhole on right front of collar stand. Buttonhole is to be vertically centered with horizontal center being set 7/8” in from front edge.

b. Make six vertical buttonholes positioned ¾ + 1/8 inch in from front edge (see 3.10.4). The buttonholes shall be spaced evenly down the right front with the second buttonhole being horizontally in line with the buttonholes on pocket flaps.

Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance. Buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with corresponding buttonholes to affect a smooth closure.

a. Position and sew on buttons in the following positions:

Clean shirt.

Trim all ends of thread and remove loose threads. Remove all spots, stains and all visible shade markings.

Press and prepare for packaging.

a. Press shirt.

b. Button shirt and fold for packaging.

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3.12. Workmanship. The finished shirt shall conform to the quality of product by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable point value or defect limit.

4.0 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the purchase description where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 Quality conformance inspection.

4.2.1 Component and material testing. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this purchase description.

4.2.2 End item examination. Sampling and examination of the end item shall be performed in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1492. The shirts shall be classified as dress (“D”) shirts.

5.0 PACKAGING

5.1. Preservation. Preservation shall be Commercial.

5.1.2 Commercial preservation. The shirts shall be preserved in accordance with MIL-STD-1188.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be commercial.

5.2.3 Commercial packing. Shirts, preserved as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in accordance with MIL-STD-

5.3. Bar Code labels.

5.3.1. Individual Shirt packages shall be labeled with a bar code label corresponding to the National Stock Number and size of the shirt contained therein.

5.3.2. Bar Code label Characteristics, USMA Cadet Shirts as follows:

5.3.2.1. 3 of 9 format

5.3.2.2. Be affixed to each shirt package so that it can be read without opening the package.

5.3.2.3. Remain intact while warehoused.

5.3.2.4. Overall dimensions of the label approximately: 2-½” x 3-½” (+1” / - ¼”).

5.3.2.6. Each Bar Code Label should contain the following:

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5.4. Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract, unit packs and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-1188.

5.4.1. Cartons containing multiple individual shirt packages shall be labeled with the same Bar Code Label on individual the shirt packages contained therein.

5.4.2. Cartons shall contain only one Type of one Size shirt

5.4.3. Cartons shall be marked in a consistent location (carton to carton) with the quantity of shirts contained therein.

5.4.4 Bar Code Labels for cartons shall be applied in an obvious and consistent location on the same side of each carton as the Quantity Label on cartons containing multiple individual shirt packages.

6.0 CARTONS

6.1. Cartons shall be sturdy.

6.2 Cartons shall be strong enough where three cartons filled to commercial capacity of shirts can be stacked on top of each other (three cartons high) where their weight will not collapse or deform the bottom carton in storage and reasonable handling in freight.

7.0 NOTES

7.1. Intended use. The shirt is for wear by cadets of the United States Military Academy as part of the semi- dress uniform.

7.2. Ordering data. Procurement documents should specify the following:

7.2.1. Number and date of this purchase description.

7.2.2. Type, and size required (see 1.2).

7.3. Samples. For access to samples of the shirt and shade samples, address the procuring office issuing the invitation for bid.

7.4. In order to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible, consideration should be given to the following:

The needle should be the smallest possible width at slim point. The smallest throat plate hole possible should be used to prevent flagging. Presser foot should be just enough to insure steady flow of material. Feed dogs should contain 18 to 20 teeth per inch. All attachments should be as smooth as possible to permit free flowing of the fabric through the machine. The lightest possible thread tensions should be used while maintaining a good stitch. The upper and lower thread should be balanced. Frequent checks should be made to insure that blunt needles are eliminated and machine adjustments maintained.

Custodian: Preparing activity: USMA, LSSO USMA, LSSO, CUF

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UNITED STATES MILITARY ACADEMY WEST POINT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

FOR OVERBLOUSES, WOMEN’S

NUMBER 396

DATED: 5 January 2005

1.0 SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for polyester/wool and polyester/cotton over blouses intended for wear by female cadets of the United States Military Academy of the Department of the Army.

1.2 The over blouses shall be of two types in the following classes and sizes:

Type I – Short sleeve Type II – Long sleeve Class 1 Class 2 Class 3

Schedule of sizes Type I

Type II

2.0 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

MILITARY

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and Military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 40, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

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2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Method 88B (two photographs) – Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Executive Director, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D-204 - Methods of Testing Sewing Threads (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3.0 REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the supplier. Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample, in which case this purchase description shall govern.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1. Basic Material, class 1. The basic material for the shirt shall be 65% Polyester and 35% Cotton, woven in a 3-1 Right-Hand twill weighing 8 oz./Square yard.

3.2.1.1 The minimum warp yarns per inch shall be 87

3.2.1.2. The color of the finished cloth shall be white # 01990-50. The corresponding discoloration requirement in MIL-C-29127 (SA) shall apply. - Deleted

3.2.1.3. The “finish” requirement of the white cloth shall conform to the class 2 of MIL-C- 29127(SA). The resin shall be procured. - Deleted

3.2.2.1. Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray)

3.2.2.2. Weave: Plain

3.2.2.3. Weight: 4.4 to 4.8 ounces per square yard

3.2.2.4. Fiber Content: 80% Polyester, 20% Wool

3.2.2.5. Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

3.2.2.6. Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.2.7. Construction: minimum 65 Ends per inch and 59 Picks per inch

3.2.3.1. Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray)

3.2.3.2. Weave: Plain

3.2.3.3. Weight: 4.6 to 5.0 ounces per square yard

3.2.3.4. Fiber Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool

3.2.3.5. Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

3.2.3.6. Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.3.7. Construction: minimum 60 ends per inch, 50 picks per inch.

3.3 Button stay. The button stay material for over blouses shall be the basic material of the over blouse, or as an alternate, a commercial button stay material may be used.

3.4. Interlinings.

3.4.1. For Class I Over blouses, The interlining shall be white in color and either of the following listed in 3.4.2 or 3.4.3. - Deleted

3.4.2. Fusible type Interlining to conform to DHJ Style 375, such as: Chicopee Style 3522 or Sta-Flex Style 5520 or their equivalent. - Deleted

3.4.3. A non-fusible, woven, stitched-in, polyester fiber cloth conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. - Deleted

3.4.4. For Class II and II Over blouses, the fusible interlining for collar, collar-stand, pocket flaps, loops (straps) and cuff shall conform to type V, Style B, Class 3 of MIL- CL4429. When tested as specified, the fusibles shall meet the initial and laundered bonding strength requirements specified in MIL-C-44296 when fused to the basic material. Note: As an alternate, a stitched-in non-fusible polyester fiber cloth interlining conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. The color shall be charcoal or black.

3.5. Labels.

3.5.1. The contractor shall furnish labels on each over blouse.

3.5.2. The Identification Label is to be approximately 2 ½” x 1 ¼” with the following format:

USMA, LSSO DIV.

West Point, NY Name:

Date:

3.5.2.1. The Identification Label shall be positioned on the bottom right Facing for all over blouses.

3.5.3. An Instruction Label approximately 1 ¼” x 1 ¼” shall be positioned below the identification label; and contain the following information:

TYPE I 65% Polyester/35% Cotton.

Machine wash in warm water at permanent press setting. Tumble Dry at medium cycle. Remove promptly when dryer stops. If not tumble dried, remove garment before spin cycle & drip dry. Touch up with warm iron.

Do not use chlorine bleach.

TYPE II 80% Polyester/20% Wool Machine was in warm with like colors. Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed. Tumble dry warm, arm iron when needed. May also be Dry Cleaned.

TYPE III 55% Polyester/45% Wool Dry Clean Only

3.5.4. The Size Label shall be approximately ¾” x ¾” and positioned inside the overblouse on the center back under the collar.

3.6. Thread.

3.6.1. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 70, conforming to MIL-T-43548 or spun polyester 70, 2 or 3- ply, conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-T-43624.

3.6.2. Thread color and colorfastness.

3.6.2.1. The color of the thread for Class I over blouses shall be white, Cable No. 66050 conforming to the standard sample. The color of the thread shall show no more discoloration to light (standard 20 hours), perspiration and combined laundering and bleaching than that of the standard sample. - Deleted

3.6.2.2. The color of the thread for Class II and Class III shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043.

The thread shall show colorfastness to laundering, perspiration, and light, equal to or better that the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light.

3.7. Buttons.

3.7.1. The buttons shall conform to type II, class K, style 25, 19 line of V-B-871.

3.8. Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene, tere-phthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010. One end shall be rounded and the other end tapered with the point rounded.

3.9. Design. The shirt is a semi-fitted hip length over blouse style with front seams and three piece back. The shirt has shoulder loops, convertible collar, and six button front. The collar and shoulder loops have interlinings, and the collar has stays.

3.9.1. Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the purchase description and the figures, the purchase description shall control.

3.9.2. Patterns. A size 12 reference pattern is available for use as a guide for processing the manufacturer’s working patterns and unless otherwise indicated provides an allowance of ⅜ inch for all seams.