PGC 01834_Tech Changes.docx
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- Unisex Gloves
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About this file
This document provides interim changes to the federal specification for unisex leather dress gloves. Key details include:
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The specification governs black leather dress gloves to be procured by the Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support Clothing and Textiles agency. It provides updated requirements for materials, construction, workmanship, inspection, preservation and packaging. Specific changes include requirements for liner thread, leather shell thread, topstitching, barcoding and RFID tagging.
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Glove sizes range from 1 to 13 for unisex sizes and 1C to 7C for cadet sizes. Dimensions and tolerances are provided for finished measurements. The specification details pattern pieces, seam types, stitch types and allows for minor modifications to working patterns.
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Inspection includes in-process checks and end item examination according to defect point values in the specification and Mil-Std-1613. Acceptance is determined by attribute sampling plans. The document provides commercial quality assurance levels for visual and dimensional attributes.
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| File | Type | Posted |
|---|---|---|
| Market Research Survey_Unisex Glove.docx | DOCX document | |
| GL-PD-19025_15 Jul 2019.pdf | ||
| A-A-50386_13 March 1991.pdf |
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GLOVES, MEN'S AND WOMEN'S, BLACK DRESS
Make in accordance with A-A-50386, dated 13 March 1991.
Interim changes to A-A-50386:
Paragraph “Description”, delete and substitute:
“Description. The gloves shall be slip-on style with sewn in bolton thumb and shall have fourchettes, top opening with turned under hem and a cut and sew knitted fabric liner. See Figure
1. Figure 1 is furnished for informational purposes only. Any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern.”
Paragraph “Material”, delete and substitute:
“Materials.
“Leather. The tranks shall be cut from leather conforming to Type A, Class 2, Sub-class B of MIL-DTL-32067, except the leather shall have a thickness of 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 ounces and the requirements for total ash, chromic oxide, and pH are not applicable. The leather shall not discolor the water in the shrinkage temperature test. The color shall be Navy Black 3236 and match the standard sample. The color shall be uniform throughout, and shall completely penetrate the leather from the grain side to the flesh side. Folds or wrinkles more than 1/16 inch wide in the flat shall be prohibited.
“Visual color matching for leather. The color and appearance of the finished leather shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 with a color temperature of 7500 (± 200)K, with illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200)K.”.
Page 2 After paragraph “Fabric liner” insert new paragraphs:
Thread, liner. The liner thread shall be a 2 or 3 ply, Size 0, Type VI of A-A-50864. As an alternate a 2 ply, Tex 25 to 30, Type I or II of A-A-50199 may be used. The color of the liner thread shall be natural.
Thread, leather shell. The leather shell thread shall be a 3 ply, Class A or B, Size A (needle) and B (looper), Type I or II of A-A-50864; or Type III, Size A (needle) and B (looper) of A-A- 50864 . The color shall be black.”.
Paragraph “Label” delete and substitute:
“Label. Each pair of gloves shall have a label sewn into the hem of each glove. The label shall be combination identification and size label conforming to Type VI, class 4 of MIL-DTL-32075 except the label shall have the following inscription and shall show fastness to dry cleaning only.
Gloves, Leather: (50% polyester/50% wool liner) (example) Contract No. (SPM1C1-00-0-000 (example) Stock No. 8440-00-000-000 (example) Size: 5C (example) Name of Contractor: ABC Company (example) After “Label” paragraph insert:
Bar code label. Each paired item shall be individually bar-coded with a label for personal clothing items. The label shall have a finish suitable for thermal transfer and direct printing without feather or spreading and shall be a fixed to the paired gloves' heat sealed polyethylene bag so it remains securely in position.
The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials "UPC" shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density, clearly legible and readable by scanner, durable and nonfading and sufficient to withstand normal exposure to environmental and handling conditions. See Pairing paragraph.
Paragraph “Sizes”, Line 3, delete and substitute: “1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 1C, 2C, 3C, 4C, 5C, 6C and 7C” Under “NOTE:” , line 3, delete “10” and substitute “13”.
Paragraph “Sizes and measurements”. Delete and substitute:
“Sizes and measurements. The finished gloves shall conform to the finished dimensions specified in Tables I and II. All measurements and tolerances are expressed inches. All measurements shall be taken without distorting the finished gloves.
TABLE I. Finished measurements for unisex sizes
| (A) |
| (B) |
| (C) |
| Size |
| Overall Length |
| Thumb Length |
| Width |
| 1 |
| 9-5/8 |
| 2-3/16 |
| 3-1/2 |
| 2 |
| 9-3/4 |
| 2-1/4 |
| 3-5/8 |
| 3 |
| 9-7/8 |
| 2-5/16 |
| 3-3/4 |
| 4 |
| 10 |
| 2-7/16 |
| 3-15/16 |
| 5 |
| 10-1/8 |
| 2-1/2 |
| 4-1/8 |
| 6 |
| 10-3/8 |
| 2-9/16 |
| 4-1/4 |
| 7 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 2-5/8 |
| 4-3/8 |
| 8 |
| 10-7/8 |
| 2-11/16 |
| 4-1/2 |
| 9 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 2-3/4 |
| 4-11/16 |
| 10 |
| 11-3/8 |
| 2-7/8 |
| 4-7/8 |
| 11 |
| 11-5/8 |
| 2-15/16 |
| 5 |
| 12 |
| 11-7/8 |
| 3 |
| 5-1/8 |
| 13 |
| 12-1/8 |
| 3-1/16 |
| 5-5/16 |
| Tolerance |
| + 1/4 |
| + 1/8 |
| + 3/16 |
TABLE II. Finished measurements for cadet sizes
| (A) |
| (B) |
| (C) |
| Size |
| Overall Length |
| Thumb Length |
| Width |
| 1C |
| 9-3/8 |
| 1-15/16 |
| 3-1/2 |
| 2C |
| 9-1/2 |
| 2 |
| 3-5/8 |
| 3C |
| 9-5/8 |
| 2-1/16 |
| 3-3/4 |
| 4C |
| 9-3/4 |
| 2-3/16 |
| 3-15/16 |
| 5C |
| 9-7/8 |
| 2-1/4 |
| 4-1/8 |
| 6C |
| 10-1/8 |
| 2-5/16 |
| 4-1/4 |
| 7C |
| 10-3/8 |
| 2-3/8 |
| 4-3/8 |
| Tolerance |
| + 1/4 |
| + 1/8 |
| + 3/16 |
After paragraph “Sizes and measurements, insert:
“Finished measurement verification. The finished measurements specified in Tables I and II shall be taken as specified below. See Figure 1.
(A). Overall length. Measurement shall be taken from the tip of the middle finger to the top edge of the glove opening.
(B). Thumb length. Measurement shall be taken from the quirk (curved side of the fourchette) to the tip of the thumb.
(C). Width. Measurement shall be taken on palm side, ¼ inch below crotch of the middle and third finger.”
Paragraph “Pairing”, delete and substitute:
“Pairing. One left and one right glove in the same size shall be paired, matched, placed palm to palm and inserted into any commerical clear polyethelene heat sealed bag.”.
Paragraph “Patterns” delete and substitute:
“Patterns. The government will furnish a complete set of patterns to the contractor. The government pattern shall be used to create the contractor’s working pattern. The length of the leather glove pattern pieces shall run parallel with the length of the hide of the leather. For the knitted liner pattern pieces, the pattern pieces shall be cut in the wale direction. Minor modifications are permitted to the contractor’s working pattern where necessary when using automatic equipment or to accommodate the manufacturer’s production process. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability or dimensional requirements cited in this document. The gloves shall be constructed from the pattern pieces listed in Table III.
TABLE III. Pattern parts list.
| Material |
| Piece |
Nomenclature
| CID nomenclature |
| Cut # |
| Leather: |
| BACK_PALM |
| Shell, back and palm |
| 2 |
| THUMB |
| Thumb |
| 2 |
| FOURCHETTE |
| Fourchette |
| 6 |
| Knit liner: |
| LINING |
| Liner, Back and Palm |
| 2 |
| THMN-LIN |
| Thumb Liner |
| 2 |
After “Pattern” paragraph, insert new paragraphs:
“Construction. Stitches, seams and stitch types shall be in accordance with ASTM D6193. The use of a trimmer attachment on the sewing machine for trimming leather or for trimming the lining shall be prohibited. Seam allowances for leather to leather seaming shall be 1/16 to 3/32 inch except to top opening. For lining, seaming operations shall be 3/32 to 3/16 inch. Stitches per inch for leather shall be 10 to 12 with 301-stitch type. Stitches per inch for liner shall be 14 to 16 with 401-stitch type. Leather fourchettes shall be sewn to the gloves’ back side using an LSa-1 seam type and 301-stitch type; while the fourchettes shall be sewn to the gloves’ palm side (front) using SSa-1 seam type and 301-stitch type. The Stitch type 401 shall be used to stitch the liner fingertips to the shell fingertips over or into existing stitches at the fingertips with not less than 4 to 6 stitches per finger. The chain portion of the 401 stitch type shall be on the inside of the glove, Seam type SSv-1. The top edge of the leather shell at glove opening (top opening) shall be turned in, over the liner 3/8 to ½ inch, with the label inserted between the shell overlap and the liner at center back of each glove. It shall be topstitch with 301-stitch type 5/16 to 7/16 inch from folded edge, SSbc-1 seam type. The label shall finish face side with printing clearly visible. Each glove shall be pressed and formed to provide proper shape and appearance prior to pairing.”
Thread breaks. Ends of all seams and stitch produced with a 301-stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching shall be securely tacked or backstitched not less than 3/8 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than ½ inch.”.
Paragraph “Workmanship”, delete and substitute:
“Workmanship. All finished pairs of gloves conform to the quality in this document. They shall be thoroughly cleaned, uniform in shade and size within each pair, uniform in quality and free from loose thread, thread ends, foreign matter and irregular defects that can adversely affect usage or durability. All marking devices or tickets used to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the gloves’ manufacturing process shall be removed. Corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on shade tickets or metal fastening devices on leather shell or adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or the adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets shall be prohibited. Any pair of gloves displaying any defect (in-process and/or end item) that can be scored in accordance with MIL-STD-1613 and this document shall be removed from the lot.”.
After paragraph “Responsibility for inspection”, insert:
“In-process inspection. Visual and dimensional inspections of the gloves (leather shell and knitted cloth liner) shall be made prior to assembly to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished gloves, are in accordance with requirements specified in this document. Materials and components, which can be classified, as a defect in accordance with MIL-STD-1613, Table IV, sections V and VI of table shall be scored for the leather shell and Table I of MIL-STD-1613 for the knitted cloth liner shall be removed from production.”
Paragraph “Defects” delete in its entirety and substitute:
“End item inspection. The finished gloves shall be visually and dimensionally examined in accordance with MIL-STD-1613, ANSI /ASQC Z1.4 and the additional defects below. The sample unit shall be one finished pair of gloves. The lot shall be unacceptable if the point values exceed the applicable maximum cited in MIL-STD-1613.
| Defect |
| Point |
| Finished gloves |
| Poor finished appearance |
| 3 |
| Barb through gloves’ leather |
| 3 |
Gloves not thoroughly cleaned, foreign matter not removed.
| Bar code label |
| Bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or |
illegible; not visible on folded packaged item
Bar code label/tag attached to gloves instead of bag
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR COMMERCIAL AQL'S: AQL'S FOR COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS (CID'S): VISUAL - GENERAL INSPECTION LEVEL II, AQL - 1.0 DIMENSIONAL - SPECIAL INSPECTION LEVEL S2, AQL - 2.5 ACCEPTABILITY OF LOTS WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE USE OF "SAMPLING PROCEDURES AND TABLES FOR INSPECTION BY ATTRIBUTES", ANSI/ASQC Z1.4
LEATHER SHADE EVALUATION SHALL BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH NAVY BLACK 3236, NEW ROLL NUMBER 22014 REPLACING 04246.
DELETE CHANGE TO PAGE 3, PARA. 3.2.3 ABOVE IN ITS ENTIRETY.
FED-STD-595C, COLORS USED IN GOVERNMENT PROCUREMENT, AND ALL ASSOCIATED SLASH SHEETS HAVE BEEN CANCELLED (FEBRUARY 14, 2017) AND SUPERSEDED BY SAE AMS-STD-595.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR SAE AMS-STD-595:
COPIES OF SAE AMS-STD-595 CAN BE OBTAINED FROM:
WEBSITE: STORE.SAE.ORG/EA/
TELEPHONE: 877-606-7323 (INSIDE USA AND CANADA)
+1 724-776-4970 (OUTSIDE USA)
MAIL: SAE CUSTOMER SERVICE
400 COMMONWEALTH DRIVE
WARRENDALE, PA 15096-0001
INSPECTION OF SUPPLIES SHALL BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH FAR PART 52.246-2 STANDARD INSPECTION. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR MIL-STD-105E:
MIL-STD-105E, dated 10 May 1989, is hereby canceled. Users are cautioned to evaluate these documents for their particular application before citing it as a replacement document. (Copies of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 are available online at www.asq.org or ASQ Distribution Center, 5131 S. Third Street, Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53207-6028.)
PRES/PACK C/C TO A-A-50386.
EACH PAIR OF GLOVES SHALL BE PACKAGED AS SPECIFIED HEREIN.
(See change to Page 3, Preservation in interim changes)
GLOVES SHALL BE PACKED 30 PAIRS TO A SHIPPING CONTAINER
SHIPPING CONTAINER SHALL BE STYLE RSC-L, SW, TYPE CF OR SF, GRADE 275 WITH DW LINER
ASTM-D-5118. STANDARD PRACTICE FOR FABRICATION OF FIBERBOARD SHIPPING BOXES ANDASTM-D-1974, STANDARD PRACTICE FOR METHOD OF CLOSING, SEALING AND REINFORCING FIBERBOARD SHIPPING CONTAINERS APPLY.
ALL MARKINGS TO INCLUDE BAR CODED NSN, UPC AND RFID LABELS, SHALL BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH MIL-STD-129, LATEST EDITION.
PALLETIZATION IS REQUIRED IN ACCORDANCE WITH MIL-STD-147
RFID HANGTAG:
An RFID inlay shall be added to the barcode paper hang tag attached to each item. Where the use of self-adhesive bar-code labels are authorized, the RFID inlay may be added to the self-adhesive label in lieu of a paper hang tag. All other contract barcode and hang tag requirements still apply.
The RFID inlay should be passive Gen2 with a frequency range between 860 and 960 MHz. The RFID antenna should be Avery/Dennis AD222 or comparable with ISO/IEC 18000-C EPCglobal C1G2 Protocol and an EPC memory allocation containing a 96 bit EPC Number. The data linking the EPC number to the NSN and quantity unit pack must be exportable to VIM/ASAP. The bar code of the EPC Number must be printed at the bottom of the tag along with the human readable version below the bar code.
In addition to defects applicable to the paper tag and barcoding element, the RFID tag shall be examined for the defects listed below:
RFID Inlay omitted RFID Inlay not secure RFID Inlay not laying flat when packaged RFID Inlay not readable with RFID scanner RFID Inlay or configuration not as specified
The manual "Item-Level Passive RFID Technology Manufacturer's Information Guide" provides guidance on RFID implementation and is available from the contracting officer.
Pallet, Case & Item level RFID is required for the Clothing & Textiles Directorate (C&T) for Bag items only.
File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .