Submarine sweater_NU_PD_19031 PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS.pdf

INCH-POUND

NU-PD-19031

CAGE CODE 32263

13 August 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SWEATER, WOOL, SUBMARINE, UNISEX

This purchase description is approved for use by the Department of the Navy and the Defense Logistics Agency, Troop Support.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a Superwash wool knitted pullover unisex submarine sweater.

1.2 Classification. The sweater will be available in one type in the following sizes.

1.2.1 Sizes. Sizes may be abbreviated in this purchase description as shown in parentheses below.

Extra Small (XS) (30-32) Small (S) (34-36) Medium (M) (38-40) Large (L) (42-44) Extra Large (XL) (46-48) Extra Extra Large (XXL) (50-52) Extra Extra Extra Large (XXXL) (52-54)

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION A. Approved for public release.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the procuring activity specified in 6.3. Since contact information can change, verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online database at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester- Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55126 - Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1491 - Glossary of Knitting Imperfections

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

United States Standards for Grades of Wool

(Copies are available on-line at https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Wool_Standard%5B1%5D.pdf) https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Wool_Standard%5B1%5D.pdf

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

16 C.F.R Part 300 – Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939

(Copies are available on-line at https://ecfr.io/Title-16/pt16.1.300)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.2 - Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc AATCC TM 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20 - Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC TM20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Dry cleaning AATCC TM150 - Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D276 - Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in

Textiles ASTM D629 - Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles ASTM D737 - Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile

Fabrics ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D3512/D3512M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other

Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester

ASTM D3776/D3776M -Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles – Constant Rate of Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test https://ecfr.io/Title-16/pt16.1.300

ASTM D3992 - Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair Top and Assignment of Grade

ASTM D4845 - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM D8007 - Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count for Weft

Knitted Fabrics

(Copies of these documents are available for purchase on-line at https://www.astm.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of these documents are available on-line at https://asq.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure – Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor).

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design. The unisex sweater shall be a knitted pullover with a convertible collar; a five button, V-neck style front yoke opening; reinforced shoulders and partially reinforced armholes, long sleeves with knitted cuff and a lining attached to the front, back and sleeves. The sweater shall have a piece of loop fastener tape (see 3.5.5.) on the upper left front as worn. The loop fastener tape shall be in horizontal alignment with the 3rd buttonhole.

3.2.1 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for informational purposes only. Figure 3 and 4 shall apply as requirements. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.3 Materials.

https://asq.org./ http://www.crcpress.com/

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the exterior portions of the sweater shall be knitted from yarn specified in 3.3.1.1. The knitted basic material shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I.

TABLE I. Construction requirements of knitted basic material.

Component area Knit Stitch Type

Wales per inch

Courses per inch

Body 1/ Jersey 8-10 10-14 Sleeves 1/ Jersey 8-10 10-14 Cuffs 2 x 2 rib 8-14 14-16 Skirt 2 x 2 rib 8-14 14-16 Collar 1 x 1 rib 12-14 20-22 Yoke 1 x 1 rib 12-14 20-22

1/ Body and sleeve material construction shall be uniform within one (1) course or wale per inch.

3.3.1.1 Stock, wool top. The 100% Superwash wool stock shall be fleece or pulled wool, or any combination thereof, not lower than 56’s U.S. Standard. The use of noils, card fly, card stripping, reused wool, reprocessed wool, fiber obtained from knitting clips, garneted hard ends and similar waste shall be prohibited. The stock shall contain no more than 3.0 percent chloroform soluble material when tested for fiber content as specified in 4.4.3.1, Table XII.

3.3.1.2 Yarn. The yarn for the basic material shall be spun from the wool top (Superwash wool) specified in 3.3.1.1 and shall be a 2-ply yarn produced on the worsted system.

3.3.2 Physical requirements. The finished basic material’s jersey knit only, 3.3.1, shall conform to the requirements cited under Table II.

TABLE II. Physical requirements (Superwash wool)

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz. per square yard 10.8 (± 0.5) Thickness, inch 0.06-0.08 Bursting strength (lbs., min) 90 Colorfastness to rating:

Perspiration (acid & alkaline) Color change (min) 4 Staining (min) 4–5 Crocking (min) dry wet

4.0 4.0

Light (170 kJ@420nm or after 40 AFU) 4 Pilling (min) 3.5 Air permeability, cu. ft./min/sq. ft. (min) 145 pH 6–7

3.3.2.1 Color, basic material. The color of the basic material, 3.3.1, for the finished sweater shall be Olive Drab Brown 3762. The basic material shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and be equal to the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 4.4.3.1.2 and 6.3).

3.3.2.1.1 Color, components. The color for all components, including the cotton lining, shall approximate the basic material, Olive Drab Brown 3762 in 3.3.2.1.

3.3.2.2 Alkali solubility. The alkali solubility of the Superwash wool shall not be increased by more than 6.0 percent (absolute) over the untreated wool when tested as specified in Table XII.

3.3.2.3 Mothproofing. The basic material, 3.3.1, shall be mothproofed in accordance with MIL-C-43665. The mothproofing may be performed at the stock (top), yarn, or knitted material stage. When tested in accordance with 4.4.3.1, Table XII.

3.3.2.4 Nonfibrous material. The basic material, 3.3.1, shall contain no more than 3.0 percent chloroform soluble material when tested for fiber content as specified in Table XII of 4.4.3.1.

3.4. Lining.

3.4.1 Lining material. The knitted lining material used for the sweater’s body and sleeve, shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table III and shall approximate the basic material, 3.3.1. The knit lining material shall be stabilized to prevent shrinkage prior to stitching.

TABLE III. Physical requirements (lining material)

Fabric construction Jersey knit Fiber content 100% cotton Weight, oz./sq. yd. 5.8 – 6.2 Bursting strength: (min.) 80 lbs.

Fabric yarn count: (min) Wales per inch Courses per inch

Colorfastness to:

Light (170 kJ@420nm or after 40 AFU) Crocking, wet-dry Perspiration Color change Staining

3-4 3.5 pH 5.5-8.5 Presence of labile sulfur No more than a slight trace Non-fibrous material content, percent (max) 6.0

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Reinforcement pieces.

3.5.1.1 Cloth, reinforcement. The cloth for reinforcing the buttons and buttonholes shall be polyester or a polyester blend conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106. When a polyester blend tape is used the yarn shall contain not more than 68 percent polyester and the remaining percentage shall be cotton. The reinforcement cloth shall be cut into ten (10) individual pieces of 1 x 1-1/2 (± 1/18) inches. As an alternate the cloth may be cut into one 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches wide continuous length piece to account the corresponding sweater size.

3.5.1.2 Tape, reinforcement. The cotton tape for reinforcing the shoulder seams and underarm portion of the armhole seam shall conform to Type II, Class 3, of A-A-52071. The tape shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch in width, except the minimum filling yarns per inch shall be 28.

3.5.2 Label. Each sweater shall have a combination label. The combination size, identification and instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075 and the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939. The combination label shall contain the information below. The content of the label’s inscription may be in any order.

SWEATER, WOOL, SUBMARINE

100% SUPERWASH WOOL

LINING 100% COTTON

Contract No. XXXXXX-XX-X-XXXX

NSN Number Lot number

Manufacturing date Size: Medium (38-40) (Example)

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Machine or hand wash cold, separately Do Not Tumble Dry/ Dry Flat Only

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

DO NOT IRON

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.5.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded in accordance with MIL-DTL- 32075, Type VIII, Class 17. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5.4 Buttons. The buttons for the front yoke shall be 30-ligne in accordance with Type I, Class 1, Style 26 of A-A-59994.

3.5.5 Fastener tape, loop. The 100% nylon with selvage loop fastener tape shall be in accordance with Class 1 of A-A-55126. The width of the loop fastener tape which shall include the selvage and shall be 2 (± 1/16) inches wide. The length of the loop fastener tape shall be 4 (± 1/16) inches long.

3.5.6 Thread. The cotton thread used for seaming and stitching shall be Tex 40 or 50, conforming to Type I of A-A-52094. As an alternate, cotton-covered polyester core thread, Type I, Tex 36-45, or Tex 46-60, conforming to A-A-50199 may be used.

3.5.6.1 Thread, gimp. The gimp used for the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or Type II, Tex 180 of A-A-50198. The colorfastness requirements shall be for colorfastness to laundering, dry heat, light, crocking, and perspiration shall be 3-4 rating.

3.6 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.4.4. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.7 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.8 Construction.

3.8.1. Pattern. Two sets of patterns shall be used to construct the sweater. A complete set of outershell (exterior portion) patterns shall be developed by the contractor for the sizes cited under 1.2.1 (XS through XXXL) and a complete set of lining patterns as specified in 3.8.1.2 provided to the contractor by the government.

3.8.1.1 Pattern, contractor. Each pattern piece of the contractor’s pattern shall be labeled as cited under Table IV and shall show size, directional lines, material, seam allowance, five (5) evenly spaced buttonhole placement marks, loop fastener tape placement mark and cut quantity.

The loop fastener tape placement mark shall be 2 x 4 inches and shall be placed in accordance with Figure 3 for sizes XS, S, M and Figure 4 for L through XXL.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts for sweater outershell.

Material 1/ Purchase Description Nomenclature

Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts

Jersey/Rib knit

Sweater Front PD19031- SW_FRONT

Sweater Back PD19031- SW_BACK

Sweater Sleeve PD19031- SW_SLEEVE

Rib knit Yoke PD19031- SW_YOKE

Collar PD19031-SW_COLLAR

1/ See 3.3.1, Table I for wool knit and rib knit materials.

3.8.1.2 Pattern, government. A complete set of standard patterns for the sweater’s lining only, which show size, directional lines, placement marks, cut quantity, and notches for assembly, except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government as cited under Table V.

The Government pattern shall not be altered in any way and shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to the contractor’s working pattern where necessary when using automatic equipment or production processes. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this purchase description. The Government patterns provide a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts for sweater lining.

Material Purchase Description

Nomenclature CAD Nomenclature Cut

Parts Cotton Knit Front PD19031- FRONT 1

Back PD19031- BACK 1 Sleeve PD19031- SLEEVE 2

3.8.2 Cutting. During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Table XIV shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

3.8.2.1 Body and skirt. The body (jersey knit section) and skirt (rib knit section) shall be cut from a single piece of knit material and shall be knitted in one continuous piece to the required body width. When the full body width is not possible, two side seams shall be permitted. The skirt (rib knit section) shall finish with a non-raveling bottom edge.

3.8.2.2 Sleeves and cuffs. The sleeves (jersey knit section) and cuffs (rib knit section) shall be cut from a single piece of knit material and shall be knitted in one continuous piece. The cuff (rib knit section) shall finish with a non-raveling bottom edge.

3.8.3 Cuff section. The sleeve seam shall be reversed at the lower half of the cuff (approximately 3 inches) to the outside for the cuff to allow a finished appearance when the cuff is turned back.

3.8.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar type worked over gimp with the purling on the outside and the ends of the buttonhole stitching and gimp securely tacked. The horizontal buttonhole shall have a cut length of 3/4 (±1/16) inch to accommodate the required button.

3.8.5 Seams and stitching. The stitch and seam types shall be in accordance with Table VI and shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Where the looper (lower thread) forms a chain effect, the looper shall be on the inside of the sweater (see 3.8.2.2). Ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back-tacked or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by starting and ending the repair stitch in the good portion of the stitch, not less than 1/2 inch from the ends of the break.

Skipped stitches or thread breaks in 300 or 400 stitch type seams shall be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The operations for the construction of the sweater may be performed in any order.

3.8.5.1 Bar tacking. Unless otherwise specified in Table VI bar tacking shall be 1/2 (± 3/16) inch long, 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide and shall contain 28 stitches minimal. Bar tacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.8.6 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the sweater shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on tickets

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets

d. Any type of fastener that leaves a noticeable hole after removal

3.8.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The sweater shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table VI. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed provided that the finished sweater is identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table VI. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this specification.

TABLE VI. Table of operations.

Operation Number

Seam Placement Stitch Type Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch (SPI)

1 Make sweater

a. Stay stitch reinforcement cloth for buttons and buttonholes to left and right yoke 3/8 inch from fold. See

3.5.1.1 for reinforcement dimensions.

301 LSbj-1 8-12

b. Stitch collar to yoke. 504 or 505 SSh-2(a) 10-14

c. Stitch collar/yoke assembly to front. 504 or 505 SSh-2(a) 10-14

d. Stitch collar/yoke/front assembly and back alongside shoulder edges and neck line (The left and right side of collar/yoke seam shall match).

504 or 505 SSf-3(a) 10-14

e. Cover stitch back of neck line from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.

402 or 406 SSh-2(b) 10-14

f. Stitch reinforcement tape at shoulder seams. 301 or 401 SSf-3(b) 10-14

g. Stitch side seams of front assembly and back. 504 or 505 SSa-1 10-14

h. Stitch vertical bar tack at bottom edge of side seam on inseam

Bar tack - 28 stitches

TABLE VI. Table of operations - continued

Seam Placement Stitch Type Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch (SPI)

1 con’d i. Stitch sleeves at inseam to within approximately 3 inches of the cuff end.

504 or 505 SSa-1 10-14

j. Reverse seaming direction on lower half of the cuff approximately 3 inches to the outside. Stitch remainder of cuff.

504 or 505 SSa-1 10-14

k. Stitch vertical bar tack at bottom edge of sleeve cuff on inseam.

Bar tack - 28 stitches

l. Set sleeves to armhole.

The left and right sleeves shall be even in length.

504 or 505 SSa-1 or SSab-1 10-14

m. Stitch reinforcement tape at armhole approximately 4 inches on each side of the side seam.

504 or 505 SSa-1 or SSab-1 10-14

n. Stitch loop fastener tape to left front of sweater (only) in horizontal alignment with the 3rd buttonhole and in accordance with the marks on the contractor’s pattern and Figures 3 and 4.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

2 Make Lining

a. Stitch shoulder seams to front and back. 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Stitch side seams to front and back. 301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Stitch sleeve side seams. 301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Set sleeves to front and back assembly. The left and right armhole length shall be equal in length.

301 SSa-1 10-14

TABLE VI. Table of operations - continued

Seam Placement Stitch Type Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch (SPI)

2 con’d e. Stitch combination label to center back approximately 1 inch from neckline.

301 SSb-1 10-14

f. Turn under 1/2 inch at bottom of front and back assembly and sleeve.

301 SSa-1 10-14

g. Stitch lining to front and back assembly at bottom of sweater. Do not include ribbed skirt area.

301 SSa-1 10-14

h. Stitch lining to sleeve bottom of sweater. Do not include ribbed cuff area.

301 SSa-1 10-14

3 Finish sweater

a. Stitch five evenly spaced horizontal buttonholes on left side of sweater yoke.

Whip stitching 1/

40-50 per buttonhole including tack

b. Mark and sew five evenly spaced corresponding buttons to sweater yoke. The buttons shall correspond to the buttonholes.

101 or 301 -- 14-16 per button 2/

1/ Buttonhole stitching shall be in accordance with ASTM D6193 2/ Button attachment pattern shall be “Parallel” in accordance with ASTM D6193

3.9 Finished sweater.

3.9.1 Finished sweater dimensions. The finished sweaters shall conform to the measurements in Table VII when measured as specified in 4.4.1. All measurements and tolerance are in inches.

TABLE VII. Finished sweater measurements (inches)

Size X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX- Large

XXX-

Large

Tol.

A. Half Chest 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 ±1 B. Center Back Length 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 ±1 C. Neck Width 6-1/4 7 7-1/2 8 8 8-1/2 8-1/2 ±1/2 D. Front Opening Length 9 9-1/4 9-1/4 9-1/2 9-1/2 9-1/2 9-1/2 -1/2,+1 E. Sleeve Length 21 22 22-1/2 23 23-1/2 24 24-1/2 -1/2,+1 F. Sleeve width 5-1/2 6 6 6-1/2 7 7 7 -0, +1/2

G. Armhole Depth 8 8-1/2 9 9-1/2 9-1/2 10 10 ±1/2 H. Shoulder Overall 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 ±1 I. Shoulder Width 5 5-1/2 6 6-1/2 7 7-1/2 8 ±1/2 J. Skirt Length 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 ±1/2 K. Cuff width 2-1/4 3 3 3-1/2 3-1/2 3-1/2 3-1/2 ±1/4 L. Cuff Length 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 ±1/2

3.9.2 Finished sweater, dimensional stability. The finished sweater shall meet the dimensional change length and width requirements cited under Table VIII. See Table VII for dimensional requirements, Figure 1 for (A) length and Figure 2 for all other lengths and widths.

TABLE VIII. Finished sweater, dimensional stability

Dimensional change, per cent (max) (5 cycles) Bench Mark Locations:

Lengths:

(B) Center back ± 3

(E) Sleeve length ± 5

(K) Skirt length ± 2 Widths:

(A) Half chest ± 3

(H) Shoulder overall ± 6

(L) Cuff width ± 6

3.10 Workmanship. The finished sweater shall be uniform in quality, the defects specified in

4.4.4.1 and Table XIV and defects that can be identified in accordance with ASTM D3992 and

ASTM D4845.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.1.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in (applicable test method document or applicable paragraph(s) in the specification).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article inspection shall consist of examination and tests specified in Table IX and the samples shall be inspected for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, appearance, and dimensional requirements specified in this document. The first article inspection shall be unacceptable if the requirements in Table IX are not met.

TABLE IX. First article inspection verification

Paragraphs

Inspection Requirement Method Pattern 3.8.1 and 3.8.1.1 4.2.1.2 Materials and components examinations

3.3 through 3.6 4.4.1 through

4.4.3.2.1 and Tables XI, XII, XIII

Visual examination 3.2, 3.8.2 through 3.8.6, 3.10 4.4.4.1 and Table

XIV

Dimensional examination 3.9.1, 3.10 4.4.4.2 End item testing 3.6, 3.9.2, 3.10 4.4.4.4

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified, first article samples shall be provided.

The sample size will be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample shall be one finished sweater. The lot size shall be expressed in units of sweaters.

4.2.1.2 Contractor pattern inspection. The contractor shall submit to the Government a single size “Medium” pattern for the outer shell (exterior) of the sweater with all of the pattern pieces specified and labeled as cited under Table IV along with a finished sweater in size “Medium”.

The Government will examine and approve the Medium pattern and sample prior to the submittal of the first article. The Medium pattern will be examined for conformance to the requirements cited under 3.8.1. and 3.8.1.1. The Medium sample will be evaluated against the requirements in this purchase description. Prior to production, the contractor will submit a complete set of the sweater pattern to the Government for approval. The Government will examine the complete pattern set for conformance to the requirements cited under 3.8.1 and 3.8.1.1. Contractor shall not go into production until the complete set of patterns are approved for production by the Government. See 6.2.

4.3. Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations specified in Table X.

TABLE X. Conformance inspection verification

Paragraphs Inspection Requirement Method Visual examination (in-process and end item)

3.2, 3.8.2 through 3.8.6, 3.10 Table XIV

Dimensional examination (in-process and end item)

3.9.1, 3.10 4.4.1, 4.4.4.2

End item testing 3.9.2 4.4.4.3

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The sample unit shall be one (1) finished sweater. The lot size shall be expressed in units of sweaters.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified in Section 3. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished sweater shall be classified as a defect in accordance with this document.

4.4.2 Component testing. In accordance with 4.3, component shall be examined and tested in accordance with all the requirements in Table XI.

TABLE XI. Component testing 1/

Characteristic Requirement Verification Thread, Gimp 3.5.6.1 A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp Colorfastness to:

Laundering (after 5 cycles) Light, 170 kj@420nm or after 40 AFU Crocking, wet, dry Perspiration, acid, alkaline

3.5.6.1

AATCC TM 61

AATCC TM 16.2 or TM 16.3

AATCC TM 132

AATCC TM 15

Thread, cotton-covered, polyester core 3.5.6 A-A-50199 Thread, cotton 3.5.6 A-A-52094 Tape, Reinforcement 3.5.1.2 A-A-52071 Cloth, Reinforcement 3.5.1.1 A-A-52106 Fastener tape, loop 3.5.5 A-A-55126 Button 3.5.4 A-A-59994 Label (Combination and Bar Code) 3.5.2 and 3.5.3 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ Verification testing shall be for all applicable characteristics in the end item document.

4.4.3. Material testing. All cloth materials specified in this document shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776/D1776M prior to material testing. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

4.4.3.1. Material testing, basic material. In accordance with 4.3, the basic material shall be examined and tested in accordance with all the requirements specified in 4.4.3.1.1 and Table

XII.

TABLE XII. Basic material

BASIC MATERIAL, COMPONENT STAGE

Characteristics Requirement

Paragraph Verification

Fiber content, wool top (chloroform soluble material)

3.3.1.1 AATCC 20A

Fiber identification, fiber type 3.3.1.1, Table I ASTM D276 or AATCC TM20 Fiber, wool grade 3.3.1.1, Table I See 4.4.3.1.1 Yarn, ply 3.3.1.2 Visual 1/

BASIC MATERIAL, KNITTED CLOTH

Fabric construction Table I Visual 1/ Fabric count, wales and courses Table I ASTM D8007 Weight Table II ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C Thickness Table II ASTM D1777 Bursting strength: (min.) Table II ASTM D3787 Colorfastness to:

Laundering (after 5 cycles) Perspiration, acid and alkaline Light, 170 kj@420nm or after 40 AFU Crocking, Dry-Wet

Table II

AATCC TM61, TEST 2A 2/

AATCC TM15 3/

AATCC TM16.2 or 16.3 4/

AATCC TM8 5/

Resistance to pilling Table II ASTM D3512 pH Table II AATCC TM81 Air Permeability Table II ASTM D737 Nonfibrous content 3.3.1.1, 3.3.2.4 AATCC TM20A or ASTM D629 Alkali solubility 3.3.2.2 AATCC TM20A Mothproofing 3.3.2.3 MIL-C-43665 6/

1/ One 6 x 6 inches test specimen shall be used to verify the yarn ply and one 6 x 6 inch test specimen shall be used to verify the knitted fabric construction, (jersey, rib knit) requirement.

The results for each test shall be reported as pass or fail.

2/ The specimen shall be laundered and dried three (3) complete cycles. The specimen shall be evaluated for color change using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2 for staining.

3/ Rated for color change using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2 for staining.

4/ Rated for color change using the AATCC EP1.

5/ Rated using the AATCC EP8 6/ Verification testing shall be for all characteristics in the document.

4.4.3.1.1 Wool grade. The Superwash wool shall be examined for grade in undyed top form by comparison with the applicable US Standard in ASTM D3992 or United States Standards for Grades of Wool. In the event of a dispute, the wool grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). The sample unit shall be one (1) pound of untreated wool top. The number of sample units shall be reported separately. The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the required grade (see 3.3.1.1).

4.4.3.1.2 Visual shade matching. The basic material. 3.3.1, shall be evaluated for color and appearance using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with source simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with color temperature of 7500 (± 200) K and illumination of 100 (±

20) foot candles with incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200) K.

4.4.3.2 Material testing, lining. In accordance with 4.3, component shall be examined and tested in accordance with all the requirements in Table XIII.

TABLE XIII. Lining material verification

Characteristic Requirements paragraph Verification

Fabric construction Table IIII Visual 1/ Fiber content Table III ASTM D276 or AATCC TM20A Weight, oz./sq. yd. Table III ASTM D3776/D3776M, Opt C Bursting strength: (min.) Table III ASTM D3787 Fabric yarn count: (min) Wales per inch Courses per inch

Table III

ASTM D8007

Colorfastness to:

Light, 170kj@420nm or after 40 AFU Crocking, wet, dry Perspiration, acid & alkaline

Table III

AATCC TM16.2 or TM16.3

AATCC TM8

AATCC TM15

pH Table III AATCC TM81 Presence of labile sulfur Table III See 4.4.3.2.1 Non-fibrous material content (max)

Table III, 3.3.2.4

ASTM D629 or AATCC 20A

1/ One 6 x 6 inches test specimen shall be used to verify the knitted fabric construction, (jersey knit) requirement. The results for each test shall be reported as pass or fail.

4.4.3.2.1 Presence of labile sulfur test. In the determination of presence of labile sulfur in textile materials with lead acetate, two (2) 1.50 (± 0.01) gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two (2) samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams of stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 milliliters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a

5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over top of the test tube. The lead acetate solution contains 5.0 grams of lead acetate CP reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100 milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear, add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows:

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration or staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

4.4.4 End item examination.

4.4.4.1 End item visual examination. Each sweater selected for visual examination shall be visual examined for the defects cited under Table XIV and MIL-STD-1491. All defects shall be scored in accordance with Table XIV and this paragraph. Barre yarn on wool knit is Critical Defect 1. Knit defects as defined in MIL-STD-1491 shall be scored when applicable as Major Defect 137.

TABLE XIV. End item visual defects

Examination Defect Classification Major Minor

Material, knit cloth (jersey or rib)

Hole, cut, tear, burn, run, thin and/or thick place 101

Color not as specified for components, dye streak 102 Any drop stitch or run 103 Heavy yarn or slub (i.e. more than twice the size of the normal diameter) 1/ 201 Any knot on outside of wool knit 104 Any knot on lining knit 202 Any float on wool knit 105 Any float on lining knit 203 Bar or crack marks 2/ 106 Any pulled or snagged yarn on wool knit 107 Any pulled or snagged yarn on lining knit 204 Burrs or permanent foreign matter on wool knit 108 Burrs or permanent foreign matter on lining knit 205 Any permanent distortion (cockled fabric) on wool knit 109 Any permanent distortion (cockled fabric on lining knit 206 Broken yarn 110 Barre yarn on lining knit 207

TABLE XIV. End item visual defects - continued

Cleanliness Spot or stain on outside (largest dimension in any direction)

1. Up to 1/4-inch inclusive

2. More than 1/4-inch

Thread ends not trimmed or loose thread not removed 209 One or more shade or size markings not removed 210 Removable foreign matter on outside 211

Components and assembly

Any component part or required operation omitted or not as specified (unless otherwise classified herein) 112

Any component part twisted, distorted, pleated, tight, too full or damaged (unless otherwise classified herein) 113

Fastener tape, loop

Fastener tape spliced or frayed, any missing or broken yarns, length and width not as specified, loops flattened, loop pile uneven, no selvages, tape not lay flat and smooth on sweater 212

Fastener tape out of horizontal alignment with 3rd buttonhole 114

Color or Shade Color of lining cloth not as specified 213 Color of Shade of non-lining components (fabric, thread, tape, fastener tape, label)

Color of components not a specified 115

Variation in shade between two or more parts 116

Variation in shade within a part 214 Seams and stitches

Any part of sweater caught in unrelated stitching operation 117

Seam irregular, twisted or puckered (score only when condition exists on more than 1/2 length of seam 215

Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching back-tacked or overstitched less than 1/2-inch 216

Thread breaks not secured or repair stitching starts less than 1/2-inch in back of break 217

Seam pleated 218 Line of stitching irregular, unevenly gauged or not uniform (score only when condition exists on more than 1/2 the length of the seam) 219

Open seams or runoffs 3/

1. Up to 1/4-inch inclusive

2. More than 1/4-inch

Not specified seam or stitch type 119 Any required line of stitching omitted 120 Any line of stitching not beginning or ending where specified (unless otherwise classified herein) 221 Loose tension resulting in a loose seam 121 Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching) 122 Stitches per inch (score only when condition exists on more than 1/2 the length of the seam

1. One stitch less than the minimum specified

2. Two or more stitches less than the minimum specified 123

Buttons Size, type, number not as specified, cracked, chipped, broken 124 parallel pattern not used to sew buttons to sweater 1/ 223

Buttonholes Size, type, number not as specified, missing gimp, purling on inside of buttonhole 2/ 125

Label Missing, incorrect, misplaced, or illegible 126 Barcode label Barcode not readable by scanner; human- readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible, barcode not as specified, code density not as specified 127

Barcode not visible on folded, packaged item. 224 Bar code attachment causes damage to the item. 128

Finished garment

Left and right armhole unequal in length

- Up to 3/8 inch inclusive

- More than 3/8 inch

Left and right sides of collar-yoke seam out of horizontal alignment

- Up to 1/4 inch inclusive

- More than 1/4 inch

Horizontal buttonholes unequally spaced, buttons not aligned with buttonholes 131

Left and right collar-yoke overlap unequal in width

- Up to 3/8 inch inclusive

- More than 3/8 inch

Left and right side of collar at center front unequal in height

- Up to 1/4 inch inclusive

- More than 1/4 inch

Inseam on cuff not reversed on the lower portion of cuff joining seam 134

Twisted lining, bottom of lining sewn into skirt and/or cuff areas of sweater. 135

Loop fastener tape sewn though sweater and lining 136 1/ Button attachment pattern shall be “Parallel” in accordance with ASTM D6193.

2/ Buttonhole stitching shall be in accordance with ASTM D6193.

3/ One or more broken stitches or two or more consecutive skipped or run off stitches constitutes an open seam.

4.4.4.2 Dimensional examination. Each finished sweater selected for dimensional examination shall be laid flat and smooth prior to the examination. Any sweater measurement deviating from nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table VII and as follows shall be scored as a Major Defect 138. Refer to Figures 1 and 2 for guidance in the location of measurements A through M.

A. Half chest. Measurement shall be taken across front, approximately 1-inch below armhole seams, from folded edge to folded edge or side seam to side seam (whichever is applicable).

B. Center back length. Measurement shall be taken down from center back at collar/back neckline seam to bottom edge of sweater.

C. Back of neck width. Measurement shall be taken across neck opening from shoulder seam to shoulder seam of collar.

D. Front opening length. Measurement shall be taken along folded edge of left front yoke seam at bottom to collar seam at top.

E. Sleeve length. Measurement shall be taken along underarm seam, from armhole seam to bottom edge of cuff.

F. Sleeve width. Measurement shall be taken across width of sleeve from folded edge to sleeve seam 10 inches from bottom of armhole along sleeve seam.

G. Armhole depth. Measurement shall be taken from intersection of armhole and shoulder seam to underarm seam.

H. Shoulder length (overall). Measurement shall be taken on straight line, from shoulder point to shoulder point on sweater back.

I. Shoulder Width. Measurement shall be taken across shoulder from collar on a straight line along shoulder seam.

J. Skirt Length. Measurement shall be taken from top of skirt to bottom edge.

K. Cuff Width. Measurement shall be taken on a straight line across center, from folded edge to folded edge.

L. Cuff Length. Measurement shall be taken from top of cuff to bottom edge of cuff.

4.4.4.3 End item sweater testing. In accordance with 4.3, finished sweaters selected for dimensional change testing shall be tested in accordance AATCC Test Method 150 (2) (II) (D), (see 3.9.2 and Table VIII).

4.4.4.4 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the (end item) is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.6) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel shall contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Superwash wool lined pullover sweater covered by this purchase description is intended for wear by male and female submarine personnel of the U. S. Navy.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description

b. Sizes required (see 1.2)

c. National Stock Numbers

d. Specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3)

e. Where to send contractor generated patterns with sample for first article inspection (see

4.3)

f. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

g. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2.1)

h. When required, name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program.

i. Inspection conditions.

j. Conformance inspection and acceptable quality levels (see 4.3)

k. When toxicity testing is required (see 4.4.4.4)

l. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s website for their Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form, http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx. Complete the request form and then submit. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military

6.4 Definitions. Definitions of terms used in this document for knit imperfections can be found under MIL-STD-1491 and definitions for terms used in this document for wool can be found under ASTM D4845.

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

FIGURE 1. Sweater, front view

FIGURE 2. Sweater, back view

FIGURE 3. Loop fastener tape location for sizes XS, S and M.

FIGURE 4. Loop fastener tape location for sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

DLA-CT Navy-NU Navy-NU

CARE INSTRUCTIONS