ASU Technical Questions and Answers-13Mar09-FEDBIZOPPS.pdf

ASU INDUSTRY PRE-PROPOSAL CONFERENCE

Technical Questions and Answers

1. Question: Reference to SPM1C1-08-R-0139 - Coat Man's AB450- Chest Pieces - We have been informed by a prospective supplier that one of the components (hymo) may not comply with the Berry Amendment but that a waiver has been issued allowing its use. We also understand that a component of the shoulder portion of the chest piece does not meet Berry Amendment requirements. We would appreciate clarification of the status of those parts of the chest piece that may not meet the Berry Amendment requirements, and if some of these items are not available domestically, what procedures we can pursue (i.e., waivers, etc) in order to comply. Answer: The current required hair cloth component of the chest piece for the men's coat along with the shoulder reinforcement piece is not domestically available. Presently the Army has been testing potential alternates that are domestically available and has successfully identified a suitable alternate. The Army has approved domestically available alternate for the hair cloth. The solicitations will be amended accordingly.

2. Question: In past experience manufacturing Army dress clothing, a woven embroidered 'DSCP Exclusive" label was sewn into the lining of the coat. We notice that this label is not included in the current spec GL 07-08A. Is this an oversight and will this be included, or has it been intentionally omitted. Answer: The DSCP Exclusive label is a requirement for the coats, the requirements for this label are not contained in the specification, the requirements would be located in the interim changes to the specification. The requirements for the label were inadvertently omitted and will be added to the solicitation.

3. Question: What fabric will be admissible to use for product demonstration models since this is GFM for all three solicitations? Answer: Any alternate fabrics or components will be acceptable as long as the contractor provides a letter specifying their use of alternate materials for the PDM only.

4. Question: YKK has mentioned that the hook and eye components will no longer be made in the USA. Is DSCP aware of any concerns regarding the hook and eyes? If so, will there be a waiver issued for these components?

Answer: DSCP has been made aware of this issue. Waivers will be handled on an as needed basis. DSCP is working on this issue –

5. Question:What are the packaging requirements for this product? Specifically to include bagging, hanging, boxing, and etc. Answer: Packaging information can be found after the tech data and before the specification in the solicitation.

For example Men’s Trousers, SMP1C1-08-R-0141, Packaging information begins on page 20 of solicitation -

6. Question: What type of testing will be required by the contractor on the finished garments? Answer: All required testing is specified in the document in Section 4.

7. Question: Will this product require an RFID tagging? If so, to what levels? Answer: Refer to contract clause 252.211-7006 for example Men’s Trousers, SMP1C1-08-R-0141, RFID clause can be found on page 54 .

8. Question: Will GSI be at place of performance or at destination? Answer: The Government’s Source of Inspection is place of performance.

9. Question: What type of packaging will be required i.e. flat pack . poly bag and in carton ( how many per carton) or poly bag and in hanger pack( how many per ) Answer: Packaging information can be found after the tech data and before the specification in the solicitation. For example Men’s Trousers, SMP1C1-08-R-0141, Packaging information begins on page 20 of solicitation.

10. Question: Do we need to submit samples of all these trims (prior to purchasing) to the government?

Answer: No samples required, just comply with requirements and have documentation to support. Trims and components are not required to be sent to the government for approval. There are requirements that the components and trims must meet which are all spelled out in the various specifications cited in the contract/base specification/tiered documents, and the contractor must have documentation that is available for review that states that they are in compliance with the stated requirements, either test reports or a certification from the supplier of the trim or component. A QAR reviews these reports when they inspect the goods ready for shipment or during an in process inspections, and a listing of the suppliers to be used is provided to the contracting officer (see clause 52.209-9005 Identification of Sources for All Components for Clothing/Textile Items (Apr 2008) –DLAD). Offerors are cautioned that all components must be of domestic origin in compliance with clause 252.225-7012, Preference for Certain Domestic Commodities (December 08), as contained in Section I of this solicitation.

11. Question: If we submit a COC from each supplier to the government as well as samples, then there should be no need to submit components to a testing lab for quality testing correct? Answer: Do not need to send us samples, up to contractor if they want to test, DSCP does not regulate

12. Question: Why do these documents talk about specific packaging requirements when shipping fabric and components? - do our suppliers need to ship us these items as specified ? like for example for A-A-52106 Answer: No.

13. Question: Do we need to purchase ASTM seams and stitching book is this a requirement or is this recommended? Answer: Contractor is required to comply with ASTM.

14. Question: Do we need to submit anything to ASQ for testing? Answer: No, however the government references their testing procedures.

15. Question: Is it possible to get a finished sample of the same or a similar product that we are bidding on?

Answer: No. Guide samples are no longer provided by the Government. Shade standards are available and can be ordered through your DSCP Contracting Officer.

16. Question: Is it possible to get samples of government components such as labels? Answer: No. Component samples are not available. However, the enhanced packaging section of the contract shows drawings of the DSCP Exclusive labels.

17. Question: Is there any type of one on one assistance to help us through this process in getting started with government contracts? Answer: DSCP Small Business Office, Small Business Administration, (PTAC) Procurement Technical Assistance Center, and (SBDC) Small Business Development Center can help if contractor is considered to be a small business.

18. Question: Could you please clarify something on the Solicitations that just recently came out? Spec # GL/PD 07- 05B under 1.2 Classifcation, it lists three different styles as follows:

Style 1 – Polyester/Wool Serge, Army Blue 451 Style 2 – Polyester/Wool Tropical, Army Blue 451 Style 3 – Wool, Elastique, Army Blue 151 Answer: See Tech data, For example Men’s Trousers, SMP1C1-08-R-0141, page 12 (poly/wool serge…) It doesn’t officially say “style 1” but it uses the description of “style 1”. Fabric will be GFM.

19. Question: Subject: SOL.#s SPM1C1-08-R-0141, R-0021 & R-0022 - On the above referenced solicitation, the Pattern Date is the same as the Solicitation Date. Are we getting new patterns? Is this an error? Answer: New patterns were put out for ASU trousers on Jan 16, 2009. Any contractor who requested trousers under the pre-solicitation received the old patterns dated June 30, 2008. The TDR room is aware of the situation and will be issuing new patterns week of Jan 26, 2009. Pattern change only affects nomenclature of part pieces and number of cut pieces for fly and does not affect the shape of any pattern pieces. New trouser patterns will be furnished to DSCP from the Army by 4 Mar 09

20. Question: The mil spec (MIL-B-13466E (GL) refers to the 1.5" goldenlite woven lace to be made from either nylon or polyester. Is this a question of either/or or is there a preference? Is it possible to know whether one material or the other holds up better during the drycleaning process and if there are any deficiencies can they be elaborated upon? Answer: No preference, alternates are all viewed as equal -

21. Question: Problems and questions concerning solicitations SPM1C1-08-R-0021 (referred to as 0021), SPM1C1- 08-R-0022 (referred to as 0022), and SPM1C1-08-R-0141 (referred to as 0141). All of these solicitations are for the Army Service Uniform Trousers with and without braid. Answer: On the page listing the “Square Inch Table Allowance” it says “see paragraph 3(a) of 52.245 9P20” however the clause is not incorporated in any of the solicitations.

Clause 52.245 9P20 is the Sized Item clause.

22. Question: In reviewing Solicitation SPM1C1-08-R-0139 for Coat, Men’s, AB450, several issues require clarification. Page numbers reference those in the solicitation: Page 12 – there is no para 3.4.8.6 – Please clarify Answer: This is a typo, should have read “after paragraph 3.4.8.5 add new paragraph 3.4.8.6….”

23. Question: In reviewing Solicitation SPM1C1-08-R-0139 for Coat, Men’s, AB450, several issues require clarification. Page numbers reference those in the solicitation: Page 12 refers to page 14 (of which document?

Solicitation or spec?) stating that in Table II, Operation 2, Line 5 – Delete “…pocket flap linings, lower pocket facings, and…” We cannot locate this area. Please clarify. Answer: This tech change needs to be taken out, it applied to revision A of the specification, when spec was revised to B it was automatically incorporated.

24. Question: In reviewing Solicitation SPM1C1-08-R-0139 for Coat, Men’s, AB450, several issues require clarification. Page numbers reference those in the solicitation: Page 23 – Packaging – Specification is unclear.

Please clarify.

a. Is a hanger pack required? If so, no mention of this, also no mention of hanger or poly bag. Please clarify.

Answer: Hanger pack is required, poly bag is required

b. If this is to be flat-packed, what is desired (folded? rolled? no poly bag?) What is recommended dimension of the carton to be used. Please note that size 30R or 33XS coat is much smaller than size 52XL. Without having an active contract, there is no way to estimate the bulk required throughout the size range, and thus cannot estimate the size of carton required. Please clarify. Answer: No flat-pack

c. Please note that these coats are completely tailored and professionally pressed using unique specialized pressing equipment. Coats will be distorted in flat packing. Answer: No flat-pack

25. Question: In reviewing Solicitation SPM1C1-08-R-0139 for Coat, Men’s, AB450, several issues require clarification. Page numbers reference those in the solicitation: Pages 23-24 - Previously requested clarification (20 Jan.2009) of packaging quantities per carton. Solicitation specifies 12 per carton. However, size distributions shown on pages 109-111 are in multiples of 15. Please clarify. Answer: Solicitation tech data has correct info, 12 per carton.

Delivery schedule will be amended.

26. Question: "There is a female trouser lace, 1" width GoldenLite. On which garment are these worn? Is there going to be a solicitation for that garment?" Answer: Female slacks with lace are not out on a current solicitation.

27. Question: Will the government provided the markers and graded patterns ??? or does the contractor grade / make /print markers? Answer: DSCP provides the graded patterns and the contractor is responsible for marker and other items.

28. Question: MIL-DTL-32075 - STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL - Can you tell me what I need to do with this document? Answer: This form is to be used only if they want to suggest an improvement to the Label document. If they don't have any suggestions then this form is not used. This form is issued with every detailed specification. No action is necessary

29. Question: The following is a list of questions and/or concerns regarding Women’s Army GL/PD 07-07B, and solicitation SPM1C1-08-R-0020. The thread and undercollar both state that the shade shall be black but the lining material and hanger braid indicate shall be a good match to the basic material. Is black considered a good match to the basic material?

Answer: The lining material and the hanger braid shade requirements will be changed to allow the use of the shade black.

30. Question: The following is a list of questions and/or concerns regarding Women’s Army GL/PD 07-07B, and solicitation SPM1C1-08-R-0020. Paragraph 3.4.7.2.1 page 8 - We are respectfully requesting permission to use TIII, hanger braid, as listed in the men’s specification in lieu of the Type IX listed. Answer: Request to use alternate Type of hanger braid was reviewed and a change will be made to the women’s coat PD

31. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - Paragraph 3.4.8 - There is no indication in either the men’s or women’s coat specification or any solicitation that the alternate product for the labels that was previously approved for Military Dress coats. Item # is 4822 TWT and 4822 HWT made of 100% polyester. Answer: The alternate for the label material will be added to the tech data.

32. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - Page 12, paragraph 3, lines 2 and 3, Polyester/Wool serge, MIL-C-823, TEMPORARY shade standard. I could not find MIL-C-823 when I looked on ASSIST. Answer: MIL-C-823 is listed as MIL-DTL-823 in ASSIST, The tech data will be updated to reflect the correct document identifier.

33. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - Page 12, paragraph 4, cloth shall be in accordance with A-A-52106. Which cloth is this referring to? Answer: This is referring to the Lining material, the tech data will be corrected.

34. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - Page 12, paragraph 7, Page 11, after para.3.4.8.6. there is no such paragraph. Is there something else missing from tech data that needs to be entered? Answer: There is a typo in the change and the new paragraph that was added should be paragraph 3.4.8.6 ILO of 3.4.8.7 as stated. A change to the tech data will be added to correct this typo.

35. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - Tech data pages 13-26 - Most of the following information seems to be incomplete and skips around. The only accurately listed component spec is listed on page 5 of tech data is MIL-B- 3461G – Buttons. If the component specification is not listed with an up to date spec number and date with the correct changes, chances are that vital information may be missed or misread and put in the wrong component specifications. An example of this would be MIL-P-15064 and MIL-C-15065. These 2 items seem to run together without the additional information previously mentioned. Answer: The tech data on these pages is being reviewed.

36. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - There is no packaging data. Answer: Packaging data will be added to the tech data, hanger pack is required.

37. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0020 - Note at bottom of page 132. The offeror is NOT permitted to utilize alternate manufacturing operations or change the construction/design of the PDM. Does this mean that the PDM will be rejected and the offeror disqualified if alternate manufacturing operations are used that are not listed in the specification? Answer: The PDM will not be rejected automatically, however the use of alternate manufacturing operations will have a negative impact on the rating of the PDM and depending on the severity of the non compliance with the manufacturing operations could result in the PDM be found to be unacceptable.

38. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0019 - Page 12 of 152 (Tech Data) - Paragraph 3, Standard Sample, lines 2 and 3.

Polyester/Wool serge, MIL-C-823 TEMPORARY shade standard. I could not find MIL-C-823 on ASSIST.

Answer: MIL-C-823 was superseded by MIL-DTL-823, the tech data will be updated, MIL-DTL-823K is available in ASSIST and the MIL-C-823L is also available in ASSIST.

39. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0019 - Page 12 of 152 (Tech Data) - Paragraph 4, cloth shall be in accordance with A-A-52106. What cloth are you referring to? Answer: This is for the lining material, the tech data will be updated.

40. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0019 - Page 12 of 152 (Tech Data) - Paragraph 7, Page 11. After paragraph 3.4.8.6 insert the following paragraph. There is no paragraph 3.4.8.6. Is there something missing from the specifications and tech data that we should be aware of? Answer: There is a typo, the new paragraph should be 3.4.8.6, in lieu of 3.4.8.7, the tech data will be corrected.

41. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0019 - Pages 13-24 (Tech Data) - Most of the information on these pages appears to be incomplete and skips around. The only accurately listed component specification is listed on page 16 (MIL-B-3461G).

If the specification is not listed with the current date, and specification changes chances are that important information may be misread or missed or applied to the wrong specification. An example of this is MIL-P-15064 and MIL-C- 15065. Changes for these 2 specifications run together and changes that were made to these specifications previously are not included. Answer: The tech data on these pages is being reviewed.

42. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0019 - No additional changes are made for MIL-STD-1490. In previous solicitations there have been changes made to the Men’s Quality Standard. I did not see an updated version of this standard in ASSIST and there is no specification version date listed in the tech data. Therefore, the data mentioned in the bid appears to be incorrect and may cause serious problems for the contractor. Answer: There are changes to the MIL- STD-1490 that should be included, changes will be made to the tech data to include the missing changes.

43. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0019 - Page 146 (Note at bottom of page). - If a contractor utilizes an alternate manufacturing operation that is not permitted in the specification will the PDM be rejected? Answer: The PDM will not be rejected automatically, however the use of alternate manufacturing operations will have a negative impact on the rating of the PDM and depending on the severity of the non compliance with the manufacturing operations could result in the PDM be found to be unacceptable.

44. Question: Questions on Specification GL/PD 07‐08B dated 30JUNE2008 ‐ The thread and undercollar both state that the shade shall be black but the lining and the hanger braid indicate that they shall be a good match to the basic material.

Is black considered a good match? The lining material and the hanger braid shade requirements will be changed to allow the use of the shade black. Answer: This question is under review.

45. Question: Questions on Specification GL/PD 07-08B dated 30JUNE2008 - Page 10 Paragraph 3.4.8.1. Line 5 - The combination size and identification label shall include the following information: The following two paragraphs include the size label and the instruction label. Nothing is mentioned about the identification label. Furthermore, an instruction label is a class 15, which is not mentioned in this paragraph. There is no mention in the specification of how the labels should be printed to identify classic or athletic fit. Answer: The labeling requirements have been reviewed and changes to the tech data will be made. The Army will include new label requirements in the revision to the men’s coat

46. Question: Questions on Specification GL/PD 07-08B dated 30JUNE2008 - Page 18, Table II, Operation 2, line 2 - The lower pocket facings may be cut in the direction of the warp or filling…. However according to page 12, Table I these facing are cut from the basic material, not the lining. Answer: The technical requirements for the lower pocket facings have been reviewed. The Army will clarify this requirement and include it in the new revision to the PD

47. Question: Questions on Specification GL/PD 07-08B dated 30JUNE2008 - Page 73, paragraph 5.1 Packaging - The packaging requirements shall be specified in the contract or order….There are no packaging requirements listed in the solicitation other than pallets. Answer: The correct Packaging requirements will be added to the tech data.

48. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0021 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 2 with Braid - Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding Pattern. - Type I Classic Fit – spec stated size 34R outseam should be 47 ¼” but pattern outseam only 47” which already included the waist seam allowance, after minus the waist seam allowance ready outseam will only has 46 5/8” , if follow pattern actual ready outseam short 5/8”, no fabric shrinkage allowance included Answer: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

49. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0021 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 2 with Braid - Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding Pattern. - Type II - Athletic Fit – spec stated size 34R outseam should be 47 ½” but pattern outseam also 47 ½” which already included the waist seam allowance, after minus the waist seam allowance ready outseam will only has 47 1/8”, if follow pattern actual ready outseam short 3/8”, no fabric shrinkage allowance included Answer: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

50. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0021 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 2 with Braid - Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding Pattern. - Fly according to solicitation page 12 change spec page 5

a) Paragraph 3.3 by deleted the fly tab and substitute “a French fly”

b) Paragraph 3.9.4.5. at the end of the paragraph add “The right fly shall have a 5/8” buttonhole

c) spec page 13 paragraph 3.9.4.9. Button shall be sewn on left waistband lining to correspond with fly buttonhole, as Paragraph 3.3. has deleted the fly tab so there is no space for buttoning the button onto the left waistband lining

Answer: . The Army has updated the patterns and will furnish new patterns and PD changes to DSCP

51. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0141 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - SPM1C1-08-R- 0022 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding Pattern - Type I Classic Fit – spec stated size 34R outseam should be 47 ¼” but pattern outseam only 47” which already included the waist seam allowance, after minus the waist seam allowance ready outseam will only has 46 5/8” , if follow pattern actual ready outseam short 5/8”, no fabric shrinkage allowance included Answer: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

52. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0141 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - SPM1C1- 08-R-0022 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding Pattern - Type II - Athletic Fit – spec stated size 34R outseam should be 47 ½” but pattern outseam also 47 ½” which already included the waist seam allowance, after minus the waist seam allowance ready outseam will only has 47 1/8”, if follow pattern actual ready outseam short 3/8”, no fabric shrinkage allowance included - Answer: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

53. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0141 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - SPM1C1-08-R-0022 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding Pattern - Fly according to solicitation page 12 change spec page 5

a) Paragraph 3.3 by deleted the fly tab and substitute “a French fly”

b) Paragraph 3.9.4.5. at the end of the paragraph add “The right fly shall have a 5/8” buttonhole

c) spec page 13 paragraph 3.9.4.9. Button shall be sewn on left waistband lining to correspond with fly button hole, as Paragraph 3.3. has deleted the fly tab so there is no space for buttoning the button onto the left waistband lining

Answer: The Army has updated the patterns and will furnish new patterns and PD changes to DSCP

54. Question: Military No.SPM1C1-08-R-0033 – Skirt, Woman’s dress Class 1 - Reference to the above Solicitation tech pack GL/PD 07-03B, have queries regarding bartacking as Page 32 stated different placement - Pt. 3.9.1.7. – A horizontal bartack shall be placed at each edge of waistband pocket opening - Pt. 3.9.4.2. – last sentence stated the front of pocket opening shall be topstitched 3/16 to ¼” from edge and shall have a vertical bartack at both ends of opening. Answer: The correction direction of the bartack is horizontal – it will be changed in the new PD.

55. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0141 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - SPM1C1-08-R-0022 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding. Type I Classic Fit – spec stated size 34R outseam should be 47 ¼” but pattern outseam only 47” which already included the waist seam allowance, after minus the waist seam allowance ready outseam will only has 46 5/8” , if follow pattern actual ready outseam short 5/8”, no fabric shrinkage allowance included Answer: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

56. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0141 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - SPM1C1-08-R-0022 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding. Type II - Athletic Fit – spec stated size 34R outseam should be 47 ½” but pattern outseam also 47 ½” which already included the waist seam allowance, after minus the waist seam allowance ready outseam will only has 47 1/8”, if follow pattern actual ready outseam short 3/8”, no fabric shrinkage allowance included. Answer: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

57. Question: SPM1C1-08-R-0141 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - SPM1C1-08-R-0022 Trousers, Men’s Dress P/W Army Blue Shade 451 Class 1 without Braid - Reference to the above Solicitation both use tech pack GL/PD 07-05B, have queries regarding. Fly according to solicitation page 12 change spec page 5

a. Paragraph 3.3 by deleted the fly tab and substitute “a French fly”

b. Paragraph 3.9.4.5. at the end of the paragraph add “The right fly shall have a 5/8” buttonhole

c. spec page 13 paragraph 3.9.4.9. Button shall be sewn on left waistband lining to correspond with fly buttonhole, as Paragraph 3.3. has deleted the fly tab so there is no space for buttoning the button onto the left waistband lining

Answer: The Army has updated the patterns and will furnish new patterns and PD changes to DSCP

Question from and after the ASU Conference:

Conference Technical Questions

ASU Skirt

58. What class of skirt is this buy for?

Answer: Refer to Page 12 of 77, line one, states that skirt shall be in accordance with Class 1 of GL/PD 07-03B.

59. What is Gimp?

Answer: Gimp is a type of thread used to reinforce the buttonholes.

60. Do I need to purchase a copy of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4?

Answer: Yes, this document is a requirement of this item. You need to have access to this document as it used for sampling procedures for the evaluation of end items.

61. Do I have to test items?

Answer: All items presented to the Government for acceptance are required to meet the requirements set forth in the solicitation. Information (test report, examination reports, Certifications from component suppliers) will need to be made available for the QAR to review during their inspection.

62. What type of seams do I need to use, none are specified in the document?

Answer: Presently the document specifies that there shall be no raw edges, that the seams shall be pressed open and that all exposed edges and the bottom of the skirt and lining shall be overedged. Seaming of the skirt needs to comply with these requirements. Seam and stitch types will be added to the PDs

63. The document doesn’t specify the required stitches per inch, what should I use?

Answer: The stitches per inch shall be the stitches per inch that are acceptable in the commercial market. SPI will be included in the new PD revisions

64. The combination label is specified to be “stitched into the inside of waistband”, this is a large label; how is this to be accomplished?

Answer: The Army will clarify the position for label for the skirt in the new PD

65. What is the finished appearance of the watch pocket? Is it even with the waistband seam? Or does it fall below the seam line if yes, by how much?

Answer: The pattern governs the finished placement of the waistband pocket. It is even with the waistband seam – the PD will be changed to clarify this.

66. Normally we just form a pleat at the lining darts and do not stitch the length of the dart on the lining, since there is no indication on the spec for this, pls confirm if this is correct way or if the lining darts are to be stitched down as well.

Answer: The pattern governs, the lining pieces have a dart depicted on the pattern, therefore it is required that the finished lining parts have darts. The darts are stitched - the PD will be updated to cite this

67. On the skirt self we would like to confirm our understanding that the back kick pleat (vent) does get a topstitch as shown on the sketch and that it is on the right side as shown on sketch.

Answer: Correct, the kick pleat is required to finish right over left, and the stitching at top of kick pleat is on the right side of skirt as depicted in the figure.

68. Page 39 of solicitation (pg 18 of spec) gives a suggested source for the Snugtex band, but we have not been able to reach anyone at this #..it is a cell #...we have left messages but no answer and we cannot find any company by that name on line...pls advise if we have the right info as we would like a sampling of this band. Is there a specific size width that must be ordered?

Answer: The rubberized waistband, sugtex source (available from Southern Waistband Inc) is only a suggested source, this is not a required source, there are other sources for the commercial type rubberized waistband. The requirements for the rubberized waistband lining are specified on page 6, paragraph 3.4.5 of the document. Line 5 specifies the finished width, with selvage, to be 7/8 +/- 1/16 inch. The contractor is required to locate a source for all components, including the rubberized waistband. The Army will update the PD to cite a potential source of the Snugtex

69. Packing question, it states that 14 skirts are to be packed per box (type CF style RSC Grade 275 Variety SW class domestic with a double wall liner) Is there a specific size for this box?

Answer: The info does not specify the size of box. The size of the box is not specified, a commercially suitable size box should be used that properly fits the required quantity of 14 skirts.

70. Spec states the lining is to be free hanging attached at the band, but there is no mention of how the lining is to be finished at the zipper opening.

Answer: The method of finishing the skirt at the zipper area is not specified, the contractor can decide what is the best way to accomplish this process. However the pattern shall not be altered, and therefore governs some of the construction. The chosen process should also be one that is commercially acceptable. The document also specifies that there shall be no raw edges.

71. Will the barcode label only have the NSN and the UPC? Or will it also have any of the following items: - style #

- description - color - price - size - Answer: The Barcode Label/tag is required to only have the NSN and the UPC.

72. What does the DSCP label look like?

Answer: There was information (Enhanced packaging) omitted from the solicitation that describes the DSCP label, this information will be added in an upcoming amendment.

73. Page 11 paragraph 3.9.1.7 states that the bartacks shall be horizontal and Page 11 paragraph 3.9.4.2 states that the bartacks shall be vertical, which one is correct? The document will be corrected to state that the bartacks at the corners of the waistband pocket shall be horizontal.

Answer: The correction direction of the bartack is horizontal – it will be changed in the new PD.

74. The use of drill holes specifies that they are prohibited on visible parts of the skirt, am I correct in assuming that I can use a drill hole if is not visible on the outside of the skirt?

Answer: All drill holes are not prohibited, only those that are visible. As long as the drill holes are not visible then they can be used.

75. SPM1C1-080R-0033, page 32 of 77, 3.9.4.3 and 3.9.4.4 describes the back opening for the shell fabric and the lining. The Shell fabric pleat is open. If we are to make the lining in an inverted pleat, is the pleat closed? If the lining pleat is closed, it will show through the shell fabric open pleat. Is this correct?

Answer: The lining pleat (specified in para 3.9.4.4)is an inverted pleat, this pleat is a closed type of pleat, if it were to be left open it would not serve its intended purpose. The pleat in the skirt (specified in para. 3.9.4.3) is required to be open.

76. Are there specific dimensions that you need for the barcode tag? Or just big enough to fit NSN and UPC is ok?

Answer: The dimensions of the Bar code label/tag is governed only by the information that it is required to contains, NSN and UPC information.

Technical Questions and Answers from ASU Conference (30 Jan 2009)

Applicable end items: Man’s Trouser (with and without Braid):

77. Q: PDM size in the solicitation states 34, what length shall the size 34 classic and athletic trousers be made in?

A: All trousers for PDMs shall be regular length as indicated by the pattern. Solicitation will be amended.

78. Q: Is it correct as stated in 3.9.4.9 of GL/PD 07-05B that buttons shall be shank wrapped? A: Yes, the button at the fly front and back pocket are required to be shank wrapped.

79. Q: Is the thread required to make trousers available domestically? A: Yes, as far as DSCP is aware required thread is available in the United States.

80. Q: Are the trouser PDMs required to have the silicone at the permanent creases? A: No, trousers must be pressed at the creases, but are not required to have the silicone adhesive for PDM purposes. In the event that the contract is issued to a contractor that has submitted a PDM without the silicone, contractor must show an ability to correctly apply the silicone creases during pre-production samples.

81. Q: Are trousers required to have a French Fly or a Fly Tab? A: Answer is still pending. Patterns and specifications are under review by the Army. A decision will be made to use either the French Fly or Fly tab, there will not be alternates. Solicitation, patterns and PD will be amended.

82. Q: Outseam measurements from specification do not match up with patterns, which one is correct? A: The PD will be changed to cite that the measurement is taken from the top of waistband

Question after the ASU Conference:

83. Pleases see the below contractor questions and my comments regarding GL/PD 07-05B (ASU Trousers) and advise.

Page 5, design paragraph reads --1-1/2 inch outlet provided at seat seam and 3/4 inch outlet provided at inseam.

Page 9, patterns paragraph reads --1-1/8 inch added to seat seam (total 1-1/2); 3/4 inch added to inseam (total 1-1/8).

Pattern shows seam mark at 3/4 at inseam.

Question: Should the outlet at the crotch be 1 1/8 inches or 3/4 inches?

--I am guessing that you want a 1-1/8 inch outlet at inseam? I think the design paragraph on page 5 should read 1-1/8 inch outlet provided at inseam to match up with the pattern paragraph on page 9. Should the notch on the pattern be at 1-1/8 inch, or does it just show the addition of 3/4 inch on top of the 3/8 inch seam allowance that the contractor needs to account for? Answer: The outlet at the crotch should be ¾ inch – the new PD will be changed to cite the correct measurement.

84. Pleases see the below contractor questions and my comments regarding GL/PD 07-05B (ASU Trousers) and advise. Page 13, 3.9.4.7 Hip pocket button hole tab and 3.9.4.8 Belt loops - Question; What is the finished width of the loop that forms the tab andfor the belt loop? --Old Army trousers stripping for buttonhole tab and belt loops measured 5/16-3/8 inches wide. Maybe this measurement should be added to the spec?

Answer: The finished width of the belt loops and button tab will be included in the new PD.

85. Please advise if this item will be provided by the DSCP at the time of contract ? or are we developing it?:

Interim specification changes to GL-PD-07-03B

3.6.3 - Exclusive Woven Label. Each skirt shall contain the authorized woven DSCP label.

Label shall be stitched on the liner, approximately 2 inches down from the waistband and 1/4 inch from the edge of the liner. Alternatively, the label may be looped and caught in the inside waistband seam.

Answer: We will not provide you the actual label, however, we will provide the information about the label. The information will show all the dimensions of the label, size, how it shall look, colors involved and the make up of the label.

This will be amended into the solicitation.

86. I am working on my sample Army Dress trouser and skirt. I have a question about the inside waistband.

Men’s trouser ( GL/PD 07-05B)SPM1C1-08-R-0141 - 3.4.4 waistband interlining - 3.4.5 waistband stabilizer

3.4.6 rubberized waistband lining - The above make up a curtain for inside of waistband but you list the materials separately. Can I use a premade curtain that contains all of the above ? Answer: Yes -

87. Women’s skirt ( GLPD-07-03)SPM1C1-08-R-0033 - 3.4.3 waistband stabilizer - 3.4.4 waistband interlining

3.4.5 rubberized waistband lining - The above make up a curtain for inside of waistband but you list the materials separately. - Can I use a premade curtain that contains all of the above?

Answer: Yes

88. I have some additional questions concerning GL/PD 07-05B. Solicitations: SMP1C1-08-R-0021, SMP1C1-08-R- 0022, and SMP1C1-08-R-0141 - page 9, 3.8 Patterns 5th line down reads; and ¾ inch has been added to the inseam of back part (total 1 1/8 inches at top) to allow for tapering the inseam outlet of back part. Question; the pattern back piece has a seam mark ¾ inch down from the crotch point to the notch at the knee. This will not yield 1 1/8 inches at the top. Will the wording or the pattern be changed?

Answer: The specification and pattern has been changed.

89. I have some additional questions concerning GL/PD 07-05B. Solicitations: - SMP1C1-08-R-0021, SMP1C1-08-R- 0022, and SMP1C1-08-R-0141 - Page 13, 3.9.4.7 Hip pocket button hole tab - Question; What is the finished width of the loop that forms the tab?

Answer: The finished width of the belt loops and button tab will be included in the new PD

90. I have some additional questions concerning GL/PD 07-05B. Solicitations: SMP1C1-08-R-0021, SMP1C1-08-R- 0022, and SMP1C1-08-R-0141 - Page 13 3.9.4.8 Belt loops - Question; What is the finished width of the belt loop?

Answer: The finished width of the belt loops and button tab will be included in the new PD

91. GL/PD 07-05B does not have stitches per inch. Question; Do we use the standard 10 to 14 SPI as a guide?

Answer: Stitches per inch shall conform with what is commercially acceptable. 10 to 14 Stitches per inch is acceptable as a guide.

92. GL/PD 07-05B - Page 33 of 85, pattern parts table - Twill cloth Right Fly Lining, Pattern abbreviation FLYIN, cut 1- The pattern has a different abbreviation "FLYLIN" and has cut 2. Question; Which of these is correct?

Answer: Fly pattern parts are still under review by the Army. A decision will be made whether or not the fly shall be a tab front or French fly. New patterns or amendments to solicitation will follow.

93. GL/PD 07-05B - Page 33 of 85, pattern parts table - Twill cloth - waist band point, Pattern abbreviation INWBPT, cut 1 - We could not identify where this part is sewn into the trousers. - Question; Can you let me know the location where this is assembled to the trousers?

Answer: This pattern piece will be eliminated from patterns – new patterns will be furnished to DSCP.

94. GL/PD 07-05B - Page 6 of 7, Technical Questions and Answers document, Questions number 50, 53 and 57 -refers to the waistband button and button hole placement. - Question; Do you have a resolution to this question?

We have tried assembling this area and the button hole and the button do not match the spec. as it is written.

Answer: New patterns and updated PD will be furnished.

95. As we discussed this afternoon, we have received (2) sets of patterns for the Coat, Men's Dress, P/W Army Blue, Shade 450 Purchase Description GL/PD 07-08B. The nomenclature on the separate patterns was PD 07-08A and PD 07-08C. We were looking for the nomenclature to read "PD 07-08B, Athletic" ... Please, verify if the A is reference to Athletic and the C is reference to Classic - Answer: Yes – A is athletic and C is classic

96. Coat, Men's Dress, P/W Army Blue, Shade 450 -Solicitation, Page 12 of 152 (SPM1C1-08-R-0139); page 14, Table II, operation 2, line 5: Delete "pocket flap linings, lower facings and" - There is no Table II on page 14, please advise.

Answer: This tech change needs to be taken out, it applied to revision A of the specification, when spec was revised to B it was automatically incorporated.

97. Subject: SPM1C1-08-R-0033 - Inner waist band construction - A-A-52108 Stabilizer Placement: the specifications do not specify if the stabilizer is to sewn on inner waist band that is, between the basic fabric and the rubberized material or is it sewn inside the waistband, that is next to the fuse.

Answer: It is sewn between basic fabric and the lining curtain even with the top of waistband

98. Subject: SPM1C1-08-R-0033 - Inner waist band construction - Does the rubberized material get sewn on single needle to the inner waistband? And does the edged need to be hugged by a thin lining like the picture attached.

Answer: Yes – the rubberized material shall be sewn between inner waistband material

99. Please advise how you want the rubberized material sewn on, is it single needle?

Answer: The answer to this question is: Yes, this is a commercially acceptable method.