Specifications.pdf
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- Sources Sought - Black Mohair Braid at West Point, NY Federal contract opportunity
- Solicitation number
- W911SD25QA082
About this file
This document is a Commercial Item Description (CID) for textile flat braid used as ornamentation on military uniforms and caps, dated 17 March 1993. The specification covers four primary braid types with various classes and widths, constructed from different materials including mohair, nylon, cotton, and combinations thereof. Each braid type is defined by specific technical requirements such as width, weight, breaking strength, braiding type, and color, with detailed specifications for yarn composition, construction methods, and physical characteristics.
The document provides comprehensive guidelines for manufacturing, including color matching, colorfastness standards, finishing processes, packaging requirements, and quality assurance procedures. The braid is used across multiple military branches (Navy, Army, Air Force, Marine Corps) for different uniform elements like sleeve braid, boat cloaks, trouser braid, and cap braid, with specific width and style requirements for each application. The specification encourages the use of recycled materials and includes extensive testing protocols to ensure consistent quality and performance of the textile braid.
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I
A-A-55187 17 March 1993
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION
BRAID, TEXTILE (FLAT)
The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to Military Specification
MIL-B-593.
Abstract. This flat braid is used as ornamentation on military uniforms and caps.
Classification. The braid shall be of the following types, classes, and widths as specified below:
Type I - Class 1 -
Class 3 -
Type II - Class 1 -
Type 111 - Class 1 -
Class 2 -
Type IV - Class 1 -
Mohair outer coverina 3/3 plain Widths:
2/2 plain Widths :
Nylon and 2/2 plain Widths:
stitch (He~cules) 3/4, 1, 1-3/4, 2, and 2-1/2 inches stitch 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/2, and 1-3/4 inches mohair outer covering stitch 1/4, 1/2, 1-1/2, and 2 inches
Cotton Skipweave
Width: 1-3/4 inches 2/2 plain stitch Widths: 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/2, and 2-1/4 inches
Cotton and nylon outer covering 2/2 plain stitch Width: 1-1/2 inches
Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.
AMSC N/A FSC 8315
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;
distribution is unlimited.
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TR0036, TR0037
TR0039
TR0026 But made w/Polyester?
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SALIENT
A-A-55
CHARACTERISTICS
General description.
uniforms and caps as
Navy:
Sleeve braid Boat cloaks
Army :
I Sleeve braid Trouser braid Slack braid USMA uniform
I Cap braid, skipweave
Air Force:
Cap braid (Type I, Class Sleeve braid
(Type I, Class
Marine Corps:
Boat cloaks
The braid is used as ornamentation on military follows:
3)
3)
1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, and 2 inch 1 inch and 2-1/2 inch
3/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch {/2 inch and 1-1/2 inch 1 inch 1 inch and 2 inch
1-3/4 inch
1-3/4 inch
1/2 inch and 3/4 inch
1/2 inch
Material. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this document.
Cotton yarn. The yarn for all types shall be combed, mercerized cotton yarn in the following nominal sizes:
Type I Class 1 - 40/2 Class 3 - 40/2 or 20/2
Type II Class 1 - 40/2
Type III Class 1 - 40/2 Class 2 - 30/2
Type IV Class 1 - 20/2
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A-A-55187
Mohair yarn. The mohair yarn shall not be lower in grade than 28’s and shall be carded, combed, and spun on the worsted system;
and shall be twisted into a nominal 2/28’s count yarn.
Nvlon yarn. The yarn shall be a continuous-filament, nominal 210 denier, 34 filament, nylon yarn.
Construction and physical requirements. The Type I braid shall be constructed with a cotton warp, and with a mohair outer covering. The Type II braid shall be constructed with a cotton warp, and with a nylon-mohair outer covering. The Type III braid shall be constructed with cotton yarn. The Type IV braid shall be constructed from a combination of cotton and nylon yarns. The braid shall conform to the following Table:
TABLE I - BRAID REQUIREMENTS
!YPE
~1
I I I I I I I I I I
II
II
II
:11
:11 :11 :11 :11 :11
IV
LASS
Width (inches) (min.)
3/4 1-3/4
1-3/4 ~1
1/2 3/4
1-1/2 2-1/4 1-1/2
Iz./per L44 yds ~min.)
.ines
?icks per inch (min.)
Breaking strength Braiding lbs.(rein) Type
110 3/3 Hercules 170 3/3 Hercules 220 3/3 Hercules 300 3/3 Hercules 360 3/3 Hercules 50 2/2 plain 65 2/2 plain 95 2/2 plain 130 2/2 plain 170 212 plain 40 2/2 plain 80 2/2 plain
210 2/2 plain 265 2/2 plain raid 2/skip2 (skipweave)
60 2/2 plain 115 2/2 plain 150 2/2 plain 160 2/2 plain 200 2/2 plain
2/2 plain
~/ A Certificate of Compliance shall be submitted & will be acceptable for the stated requirements of: singeing finish mercerization (microscopic examination
~/ This is a required width with + 1/:
6 inch tolerance.
and
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Color. The color of the finished braid contract: exceDt that the color of Tvoe shall be as specified in the III, Class 2 and Type IV, Class 1 shall be Black/Blue 3362. Tii~use of sulfur dyes and dyes containing elementary sulfur or compounds capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyed braid shall show no more labile sulfur than that shown by the standard sample when tested. When no standard is available, the finished braid shall show no more than a trace of labile sulfur.
Colorfastness . The dyed braid shall show fastness to perspiration, wet dry cleaning, and light equal Co or better than the standard sample or equal to or better than a rating of “good,” when tested in accordance with AATCC test methods in Table II. The dyed braid shall show fastness to crocking equal to or better than the standard sample or shall have an AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating of not less than 2.5.
Matchinq. The color of the dyed braid shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artifical daylight and that have a correlated color temperature of 7500 + 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 + 200 K.
Standard sample. When a standard sample is available, the braid shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
Finishinq. The yarn to be used ~raiding.
Shrinkaqe. The shrink not more with AATCC 99.
shrinkage test, (Minimum widths finished braid shall be singed. As an alternate, to form the outer covering may be singed prior to the
Type I, Class 3 and Type III, Class 2 braids shall than 2.0 percent in length when tested in accordance The width of the braid, after being subjected to the shall measure not less than the minimum width.
are given in the Table: BRAID REQUIREMENTS. )
Put-up and lenath. The 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch width braid shall be put-up on chipboard spools containing 144 + 10 yards each. The 3/4 inch to 2-1/2 inch width braids shall be put-up on single-width chipboard reels containing 72 + 5 yards each. There shall not be more than four lengths per spool for 144 yard spools, and not more than three lengths per reel for 72 yard reels. No one length shall be less than 5 yards. The end of the braid shall be fastened to prevent unwinding .
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Workmanship.
and all loose objectionable
A-A-55187
After completion, the braid shall be thoroughly cleaned, thread, lint, foreign matter removed; be free from odor and shall conform to the quality of product es~ablished by the commercial market. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels (AQLs).
Defects. The braid shall be examined for the following defects:
not clean throughout; objectionable odor; identification marking missing, illegible, or incorrect; improperly or insecurely wound on spools, tangled and does not unwind properly; and not singed. The braid should not have any of the following: missing or broken yarn;
hole, cut, or tear; abrasion mark, coarse or fine yarn, any slubs or knots; spot or stain, braiding that is loose or tight, and wavy outer edges (warp direction); width not as specified.
Label/markinq. Each spool or reel shall have a label attached in such a manner as to remain in place. All entries shall be legibly printed, stamped, or typed with water insoluble ink with the followina Information: -
National Stock Number Nomenclature Specification Number Color, width, fiber content, c Contract Number and Date Contractor’s Name
QUALITY ASSURANCE
ass, and total yardage
Certification. The contractor shall certify, and maintain sub-stantiating evidence, that the product offered meets the salient characteristics and requirements of this Commercial Item Description;
and that the product conforms to the producer’s own, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor QA systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract.
End item examination. The braid shall be examined at normal inspection distance (3 feet) for defects. The lot size shall be expressed in yards. The sample unit shall be 1 yard of braid.
TABLE II - END ITEM TESTING
Characteristic Test Method
Yarn ply Visual Labile sulfur FED STD 191-2020 II Colorfastness to:
Perspiration AATCC 15-1985 Wet drycleaning AATCC 132-1985 Crocking MITCC 8-1988 .Light AATCC 16A-1988
Weight (conditioned) 21 Lines Visual ~/ Number of carriers Visual ~/ Ends per carrier Visual ~1 Total warp ends Visual JI Picks per inch Visual Al Breaking strength ASTM D-5034-90 ~/ Braiding type Visual ~/ Shrinkage, length AATCC 99-1988 ~/ Shrinkage, width AATCC 99-1988 ~/
Contractor’s certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this characteristic.
See “Visual Examination. ” One determination per sample unit and the results reported as “actual count”.
Three determinations per sample unit and the resilta reported as the average of three determinations to the nearest whole number.
Breaking strength shall be determined on the full width of the braid and the jaw dimensions shall be greater than the width of the braid.
One determination per sample unit “pass” or “fail”.
Except that the width of the test and the results reported as specimen shall be the full width of finished braid.
Visual examination. The braid shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes”, ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, published by the American Society for Quality Control.
The inspection level for visual examination shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The inspection level shall be II and the Acceptable Quality Level (AQLj, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 4.0. The sample unit shall be 6 yards of the braid. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample unit(s) fail to meet any requirement specified except that for weight.
For weight, the lot shall be unacceptable if the average of all sample units fails to meet the specified requirement. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:
Lot size [Yards ~
800 or less 801 up to and including
22,001 and over
Sample size (number of sample units~
22,000 3
Requlatorv requirements. The offerorlcontractor is encouraged to use recovered material in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable.
Certification of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.
PACKAGING
Packaqinq, packinq, markinq, and palletization.
Packaging, packing, marking and palletization shall be in accordance with ASTM-D 3951, Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging, as specified for shipments to the Department of Defenser including Section 7.
Packaqinq. Each spool or reel of braid shall be wrapped with trans-parent plastic film or bleached sulphite paper. The wrap shall be secured with gummed or pressure-sensitive tape.
Packinq. Spools or reels of braid of one type, class, width, and color only, packaged as specified, shall be compactly packed in a snug-fitting fiberboard shipping container conforming to style RSC-L, type CF (variety SW) or SF, class domestic, grade 275. Liner for the shipping containers shall be DW.
~: Each shipping container shall contain only one National Stock Number (NSN).
Markinq. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or purchase order, unit packages and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.
Palletization. When specified, shipping containers shall ualletized in accordance with load Tvpe Ia of MIL-STD-147.
be Pallet
~attern shall be in accordance with ~~e appendix of MIL-STD-147.
The containers shall be bonded onto wing type commercial 4-way entry pallets.
All palletized loads shall contain only one NSN, to the maximum extent possible. When there is less than a pallet load per NSN, pallets may have containers not of the same NSN, but the pallet shall be clearly marked “mixed” and each applicable NSN shall be listed together with its total quantity.
Unitized loads, placing boxes on pallets, shall be used whenever total quantity for shipment to one destination exceeds 250 pounds (excluding the pallet) or 20 cubic feet. Pallets shall have a length of ~0 inches and a width of 48 inches. Pallet loads, including the pallet, shall not exceed 54 inches in height, 43 inches in length and 52 inches in width.
Prohibited packinq materials . The use of asbestos, excelsior, newspaper or shredded paper (all types including waxed paper, comDuter paDer and similar hyaroscouic or non-neutral material) are-prohibi~ed.
Source of Government documents. Copies of Mil documents are available from:
Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094 tary and Federal
Rules and Regulations Under The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act is available from:
Federal Trade Commission Washington, DC 20580
1 Sources of Non-aovernment documents.
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables For Inspection By Attributes is available from:
(Applications for copies should be addressed to:)
American National Standards Institute 1430 Broadwayr New York, NY 10018-3308
ASTM-D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Applications for copies should be addressed to:)
American Society For Testing and Materials 1916 Race Street, Philadelphiar PA 19103.1187
Chromatic Transference Scale and the AATCC 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home, and Commercial: Accelerated, is available from:
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
P.O. BOX 12215
Triangle Parkr NC 27709-2215
Custodians :
Navy - NU Air Force - 11
Review Activities:
Army - GL Air Force - 82, 99
User Activities:
Navy - MC Air Force - 45
Civil Agency Coordinating Activity:
GSA - FSS
Preparing Activity:
DLA - CT
Project No.
8315 - 0361
STANDARDIZA~lON DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL,,.:, INSTRUCTIONS
1. The preparing activity must complete blocks 1, 2, 3. and 8 In block 1, both the document number and revision Ierter should be given.
2. The submitter of thi$ form must complete blocks 4, S, 6. and 7.
3. The preparing activity must provide a reply wmhiri 30 days from receipt of the form.
NOTE: TWS form may not be used to toqumt copies of documents, nor to request waivers, or clarification of requirement on current contracts. Comments submitted on this form do not constiwte or imply authorization to .
waive any ponion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements.
,l;REc:o~M:E~%;KcH~NG-Eg;:‘“ ‘Oc”MINT‘UMBER 2. DOCUMENT OATE (YYMMDOJ
A-A-55187 93-03-17
DOCUMENT TITLE
BRAID, TEXTILE (FLAT)
NATURE DF CHANGI Odemiiy paragraph numbw ●nd include proposed rewrite, if Pom’ble, Arrach ●xva $hretx ●J neeaed.J
,. REASON FCIh P.ECOMMENW,TION
I
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