SPEC 261-220317-Bibber.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION CU 261

BIBBER, PARADE, UNISEX

17 March 2022

USAFA CU 261

BIBBER PARADE UNISEX

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification outlines requirements for the bib style parade bibbers worn by cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, CO.

1.2. Classification. The garments shall be one of the following types.

Type 1: Poly/Cotton - These shall be 100% white polyester shell with synthetic web suspenders and 14” zippers on all sizes.

Type 2: Polyester - Used by institutional branding cadet groups i.e. D&B, Honor Guard.

1.2.1. Lengths and Sizes. The garments shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I. SCHEDULE OF SIZES & LENGTHS

Length Category Size Category

Extra Short 26 thru 50 even sizes Short 26 thru 50 even sizes Regular 26 thru 50 even sizes Long 26 thru 50 even sizes Extra Long 26 thru 50 even sizes Extra Extra Long 26 thru 50 even sizes Extra Extra Extra Long 26 thru 50 even sizes

1.2.2. Special - Made to Measure. The finished measurements of these garments will depend upon the result of the cadet’s measurements, which will be furnished by the government.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government Documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton/or Polyester Covered A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester A-A-52108 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-55620C Loops, Slide for Equipage A-A-55634 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods V-T-285 Thread, Polyester

MILITARY

MIL-T-43566 Tape, Textile, Cotton or Polyester, General Purpose, Natural or in Colors MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-DTL-5038K Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing, Nylon

STANDARDS

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches, and Seams

ANSI

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 American National Standard, Sampling Procedures and Tables For Inspection

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

2.3.2 . Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions are available on web, or by mail. If unable to locate these copies either on the web or by mail, please contact the contracting officer, who shall notify the procuring activity sources.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1. Samples. Samples may be furnished by the government only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. The manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished bibber in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification along with Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations and the required specification of this document. Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.3 Materials

3.3.1. Basic material.

Type I: The basic material shall be cloth, twill, white, 8.0 oz. (+ .3),65” finished width, 65% polyester/35% cotton, with a flat wrinkle resistant soil release finish. The material shall show good or better colorfastness, and must not yellow or darken with commercial laundering. Shrinkage should be 3% or less in warp and fill. Galey & Lord products # 9908-81 white 4886 Indestructible and 2292-134 5681W Chetopia are considered equal to this requirement.

Type II: The basic material shall be cloth, Hamburger Woolen CO., Inc., 420 White, 100% polyester twill or gabardine, 10-1/2 oz/linear yd., 60"-62" wide or equal. The Milliken & Co. 7492- 9376 USN certified 100% white polyester twill is considered equal.

3.3.2. Pocketing and Lining. The material for the pocketing, for the bottom fly lining, and for the crotch lining shall conform to class I of MIL-C-43718, except that the color of the material shall be white to match the outer shell. The material for the crotch pieces shall be cloth, twill, polyester and cotton (white), 4.3 ounces per square yard, conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106.

3.3.2.1. Straps – The material for the suspender straps shall be made of nylon yarns with a flat finish, 1 ½” wide and .035” thick and should finish between 14 and 16 inches long. Webbing listed in MIL-PRF- 5038J: Type IV or equal is acceptable.

3.3.3. Hardware & Fasteners.

3.3.3.1. Stamped Metal Slide, Square. The shoulder strap slides shall be -5S as specified in A-A-55620C for 1.5 inch strapping.

3.3.3.2. Slide Fastener (Zipper). Slide fasteners for closing bibber front shall be appropriate length for size, zinc or brass with single short tab pull conforming to Type I, Style 1, cam lock, of specification V-F-

106. Color of slide-fastener tape shall be white.

3.3.4. Interlining/Interfacing. The interlining used for these bibbers shall be as specified or equal.

3.3.4.1. Fly Interlining. The material for the right fly lining, right fly tab lining, left fly interlining, and crotch piece shall be cloth, twill, polyester and cotton (white), 4.3 ounces per square yard, conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106.

3.3.5. Labels. Each bibber shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.3.5.1. Combination Contractor Identification and Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, classes 1, 2, 10, and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall show the following information:

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

The label shall be approximately 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” in size and shall be sewn on the inside of the rear yoke.

The label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.3.5.2. Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable hard-paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial hard-paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Sizes 38 regular and 12 regular shall be expressed as 38R and 12R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all bibber, the label shall be tacked on all corners to the front bib immediately to the right of the zipper top.

3.3.6. Thread. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the garments. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the garments will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent, in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble.

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

3.3.6.1 Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton – or Polyester-Covered. The cotton or polyester-covered polyester core thread for general stitching of the skirt shall be Ticket #50 and #70, 2 or 3 ply. All threads shall conform to A-A-50199. The color shall be white.

3.3.6.2. Cotton Thread. The cotton thread shall be as specified in table below conforming to commercial specification A-A-52094.

3.4. Design. The design of the bibber shall be as shown in Figures 1 and 2 of this specification, with all features in accordance with USAF Academy master patterns. The bibber shall have a high rise coverall style and two inside breast pockets, slide fastener fly and outlets at the seat seam and inseams. The bibber shall have a high rise sides, darts centered in back panel above the seat, high centered rear yoke for centered shoulder strap attachment, and a high long zippered front bib with curved chest risers for front shoulder strap attachment. The 1 ½” wide shoulder straps shall have fully adjustable flat metal loops. Tailoring outlets shall be included at the seat seam and inseams.

3.5. Patterns. The USAF Academy shall furnish a size 32 Regular master pattern. The contractor shall not alter the USAFA master pattern in any way but shall grade it up and down to develop his working patterns for the required sizes. Master pattern and approved changes, if any, shall be returned to the USAF Academy upon completion or termination of contract.

3.5.1. Pattern Parts. The component parts of the garments shall be cut from materials as specified by the pattern.

3.5.2. Seam Allowances. The pattern provides for the following allowances: 1/2-inch allowance for the front crotch, a 1/2-inch seam allowance for the outseams, a 1 inch outlet allowance on the seat seam (2-inch total), a 3/4-inch outlet (1 1/4-inch total seam allowance) on the inseams of the back parts, and 1/2-inch inseam allowance for the front. The serged, turned and topstitched edges of the bib front, rear yoke, and sides are 3/8-inch.

3.5.3. Pattern Changes. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the contract’s last shipment being received by USAFA.

3.6. Construction. The garments shall be constructed in accordance with Table of Operations herein;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished garments.

3.6.1 Stitches & Seams. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM D6193. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished bibber.

Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the bibber. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.6.1.1 Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. Thread breaks and ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks on raised or edge stitching shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Stitches skipped, or broken on Stitch Type 401 Seams shall be repaired by using Stitch Type 301.

3.6.1.2. Top and Edge Stitching. White polyester thread i.e. A-A-50199 shall be used for top stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout during the top and stitching operations.

3.6.1.3. Bartacks. Bartacks shall be of appropriate length for the task and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.1.4. Shade Markings. The component parts of the bibber shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except the following:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(2) No metal fastening devices shall be used on the lining.

(3) Sew-on shade tickets.

(4) Adhesive-type tickets which result in discoloration of the fabric, or leaves adhesive on fabric upon removal of tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside/visible parts of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.6.1.5. Shade Matching. The shade of the finished bibber shall match the shade of the standard sample.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished garments shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification, or comparable construction. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable Acceptable Quality Levels.

3.7.1. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of these garments shall conform to this specification.

3.7.2 Pressing. Unless otherwise specified herein, all pressing shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine. Pressing shall not damage the garments.

3.8. Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The garments shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations, but the garments shall be made as complete open-tailored garments.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

1. Cut Material

a. Base Fabric

b. Lining Material

c. Webbing

2. Serge Edges/Sew Crotch Lining 503 Lfd-1 6-10 A-2 A-2

3. Make Rear Darts

a. Taper from 0 to ½” to 0 301 SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

b. Press toward the center seam

4. Sew Right Fly Tab and Lining 503 Lfd-1 6-10 A-2 A-2

5. Make Right and Left Fly 301 SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

6. Sew Fly to Left Front 301 SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

7. Under Press – Left and Right Fly

8. Sew Zipper Facings 301 SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

9. Finish Crotch Seam and Fly Lining Extensions

301 SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

10 Sew Inseam 301 or

SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

11 Finish Back Center, Seat and Crotch Seam using Tandem Stitch Machine for Two Rows of Stitching to Form 1” Seam Allowance

401 SSa-2 12-14 A-3 A-3

12 Under Press Crotch/Seat/Inseams – Open and Flat

13 Check all Edge Serge Finishes.

14 Finish Right/Left Flies and Front Opening

Topstitching.

15 Bartack Fly Base. Bartack 28 per tack A-3 A-3

16 Assemble Fasteners, Slides and Suspender

Webbing. Triple Stitch Reinforcement.

17 Sew Yoke Reinforcement Piece to Yoke

Inside Out With Rear Web Strap.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

18 Sew Front Web Strap Reinforcement Piece

Inside Out With Front Web Strap.

19 Turn Strap Tops Right Side Out and Press

Base Fabric Flat.

20 Sew Outseams and Under Press Open and

Flat.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

21 Make and Attach ID/Key Pocket(s) to

Inside(s) of Front Chest.

301/Bar-tack SSa-1

12-14 28 per tack

A-3 A-3

22 Top Stitch Entire Top Perimeter. 301 SSa-1 12-14 A-3 A-3

23 Tack Yoke and Front Suspender Tops with a

Reinforced Box X Tacking Pattern.

24 Attach Cloth Contractor/Identification/Care

Label to Inside of Rear Yoke

25 Finish Press Garment.

26 Clean Marks and Loose Threads

27 Attach Paper Size/Barcode Ticket.

28 Examine.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Inspection Responsibility. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the government. The Cadet Uniform Section (10LRS/LGRCU) reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that the finished product conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.2. Responsibility for Dimensional Requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met.

When the dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection may be made at any point or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.3. Responsibility for Supplier Certificates of Compliance. Certificates of component compliance with the Federal Acquisition Regulations must be submitted to the Government. This shall be done in the first article process.

4.2. Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First Article Inspection

2. Quality Conformance/End Item Inspection

4.3. First Article Inspection. The first article shall be inspected as specified in this document for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.4. Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.5. Inspection Quality Conformance/ End Item. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The end item shall be examined for defects. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during this examination shall be classified in accordance with Table V and Table VI. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously, and as a minor defect A when affecting appearance or serviceability, but not seriously. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for major and minor A combined, and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for minor B. The acceptable quality level for major and minor A combined shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units for major defects, 15 defects per 100 units for major and minor A defects combined, and 40 defects per 100 units for totals (major and minor A and B combined).

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS AQL

AQL LEVEL INSPECTION LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II Major, Minor A And 40.0 II Minor B (combined)

**One Class 4.0 S-3

*Table 1 shows the Acceptable Quality Levels and Inspection Levels for defects listed in General and Detailed Defects Table II.

**Used for Special Inspection Levels such as finished measurements

4. 6. Finished Measurements: Any measurement deviating from the nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III will be scored as a size-measurement defect.

TABLE III: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS & TOLERANCES IN INCHES, MEN’S BIBBERS

Size ½ Waist

1/ ½ Seat

2/

Inseam Length 3/

½ Btm

4/ ½ Knee

5/

XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

Tolerance + ½ + ½ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ½ + ½ 26 13 18 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 8 1/2 9 28 14 19 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 8 3/4 9 1/4 30 15 20 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 9 9 1/2 32 16 21 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 9 1/4 9 3/4 34 17 22 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 9 1/2 10 36 18 23 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 9 3/4 10 1/4 38 19 24 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 10 10 1/2 40 20 25 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 10 1/4 10 3/4 42 21 26 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 10 1/2 11 44 22 27 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 10 3/4 11 1/4 46 23 28 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 11 11 1/2 48 24 29 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 11 1/4 11 3/4 50 25 30 31 33 35 37 38 39 40 11 1/2 12

1/ Waist Measurement - Measure the waist, 1 1/2 inches below the top of the outseam, from folded edge to folded edge across the center of the waist, with the slide fastener closed.

2/ Seat Measurement - Measure the seat from the folded edge to folded edge, 9 1/2 inches below the top of the outseam, with the slide fastener closed.

3/ Inseam Measurement - Measure the inseam length, along the inseam, from the crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom of the leg.

4/ Bottom Measurement - Measure the unhemmed bottom of the leg from the folded edge to folded edge across the width.

5/ Knee Measurement - Measure 14 ½ inches below the bottom of the crotch seam from folded edge to folded edge across the width.

4. 7 General Defects. General defects will be classified as follows:

TABLE IV - GENERAL DEFECTS.

DESCRIPTION

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

A. Material defects and workmanship damages (continue).

a. Any weakening defect such as a smash, multiple float, loose slub, or any weakening defect that will develop into a hole.

b. Any hole *

c. Shade bar, unsightly slub, on outside *

d. Needle chews which may develop into a hole *

e. Scissors or knife cut, tear, mend or bun *

f. One or more exposed drill holes

g. Rupture fibers in the line of sewing, (usually caused by broken, blunt or hooked needle) affecting appearance

B. Shaded Parts.

a. Any outside part shaded. *

b. Parts cut from ends badly shaded X

C. Cleanness.

a. One or more spots or stains of an obviously permanent nature. X

b. One or more removable spots or stains clearly noticeable. X

c. One or more bastings not removed. X

d. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of bibbers or two or more shade tickets not removed.

X

D. Components and assembly.

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not herein classified).

b. Any component part or required operation omitted (not herein classified)

E. Cutting.

a. One or more spots or stains of an obviously permanent nature X

b. One or more removable spots or stains clearly noticeable. X

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

c. One or more basting not removed X

d. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of bibbers or two or more shade tickets not removed.

F. Pressing.

a. Burned or scorched *

b. Pressing omitted (entire garment) X

c. Poorly pressed (unless otherwise classified). X

d. Legs not pressed seam on seam at bottom by more than 1/4" *

e. Outseams, inseam, crotch, or seat seams not pressed open X

G. Seams and stitching

a. Open seams

- Up to 1/4" inclusive.

- More than 1/4", but not more than 3/4" inclusive.

- More than 3/4".

Note: One or more broken, or two or more continuous, skipped, or runoff stitches constitute an open seam.

b. Raw edges:

1. On outside:

- Any raw edge more than 1/4".

- Any raw edge 1/8" or more but not more than 1/4" inclusive.

- Any raw edge less than 1/8".

2. Any raw edge more than 1/2"on inside X

Note: Raw edges requiring hemming shall be classified as such raw edges. These raw edges shall be turned under during construction. Raw edges not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

3. Over edge or serge stitching on any component part of bibbers:

- 1" to 3" omitted.

- 3" or more omitted

e. Run-Offs. (See classification of open seam).

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

f. Seam and stitch type.

1. Wrong seam type.

2. Wrong stitch type.

g. Stitch tension.

1. Loose tension resulting in a loose seam.

2. Loose tension on edge or raised stitching resulting in a loosely exposed bobbin thread or top thread.

3. Tight tension. (Stitches break when a normal strain is applied to seam or stitching). Score this as an open seam.

Note: Puckering is evidence of tight tension. When puckering is evident, the inspector shall test seam by exerting pull in the lengthwise direction of seam.

h. Stitches per inch. (Except on labels).

1. One or two stitches less than minimum specified.

2. Three stitches less than minimum specified.

3. Four or more stitches less than minimum specified.

4. One or two stitches in excess of maximum specified.

5. One or two stitches less than minimum specified on labels.

Note: To be scored only if the condition exists on the major portion of seam or stitching.

i. Stitches skipped or broken on edge or raised stitching:

1. 1/8" or more but not more than 1/4".

2. More than 1/4".

J. Bartacks.

One or more missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving the intended purpose.

Detailed Defects:

A. Outside Top of Bibber

a. Fullness or twist on outside. *

b. Top of bibber puckered or pleated. *

c. Not uniform in width by 1/4" or more. X

d. Size ticket on outside of bibber:

1. Missing, incorrect, or illegible.

2. Positioned other than immediately to the right of the zipper top.

3. Tacking of ticket insecure or the tacking at any one of the four corners missing.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

B. ID/Key Pocket.

a. Missing. *

b. Facing not caught in bartacks at ends of opening. X

c. Edges of opening stretched or gapped. X

d. Pocket placed 1/2" or more from location indicated on pattern. X

e. Size 26 - 29: Opening less than 3 3/4" or more than 4 1/2" wide.

f. Size 30 - up: Opening less than 4 1/2" or more than 5" wide. *

g. Pleats formed in tacking of corners, affecting appearance. X

h. Pocket less than 5 1/2" or more than 6" deep. X

i. Contour of edge of opening distorted or uneven. X

C. Back Darts.

a. Ends of darts not properly tapered, causing bulge or fullness. X

b. Cut out. X

c. Lower ends not securely tacked. X

D. Fly Closure.

a. Closed fly twisted, puckered, or bulging. *

b. Left fly facing:

1. Exposed beyond left front.

2. Set 3/16" or more inward from front edge of bibber.

c. Fly (inside) button and buttonhole out of alignment, causing fly to twist or bulge, affecting outside appearance.

d. Seam joining right fly to front exposed when fly is closed. *

e. Stitching on left fly (1-1/2" + 1/8") exceeding the tolerance range by:

1. Not more than 1/8".

2. More than 1/8".

f. Closed fly uneven in length by:

1. 1/4" or more, but not more than 3/8".

2. More than 3/8".

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

g. Bartack at base of fly:

1. Not placed diagonally in line with the left fly stitching, or horizontally, when used.

2. Placed below junction of crotch seam and fly.

3. Placed more than 1/4" above junction of crotch seam and fly.

h. Stitches of right fly tab inside button exposed on outside surface of left front.

i. Slide fastener:

1. Any part of assembly omitted, bent, broken, or otherwise defective, affecting function.

2. Tape set on too loose or too tight, causing bulge, twist, or fullness on closed fly.

3. Top ends of tape not caught in top corner joining seam.

4. Ends of slide fastener chain uneven at bottom by:

- More than 1/4", but not more than 1/2".

- More than 1/2".

7. Set above bottom of fly opening more than 1/2".

8. Fastener staple not securely clinched to bottom end of chain.

9. Stitches too close to metal edge not permitting slides to pass.

E. Crotch Seam.

a. Left fly not overlapping right fly joining seam. X

b. Unsightly fullness or pleats on outside of crotch seam. X

c. Crotch seam stitches more than 1/4" above bartacks at base of fly.

Inside of Bibber

F. Flies.

a. Excessive fullness, twists, or pleats on right fly or lining. X

b. Right fly lining pleated or twisted under bartack at bottom of opening.

c. Raw edges of right fly extension not turned under or the turned edges not stitched or felled to edges of crotch seam outlets.

d. Extension piece extending beyond inseam less than 1". X

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

e. Twill cloth interlining in left fly omitted. X

f. Edge of chain from finished edge of left fly:

1. Less than 1/2", but not less than 1/4", or more than 3/4", but not more than 7/8".

2. Less than 1/4", or more than 7/8".

g. Slide fastener tape stitched to left fly facing with one row of stitching.

G. Labels.

a. Contractor or size label missing, incorrect, or illegible X

b. Size ticket missing, incorrect, or illegible X

c. Any label misplaced or not securely attached X

d. Any label not stitched on four sides (when required) X

H. Seat Seam.

a. Outlet omitted X

b. Total width of both seam outlets, measured at top edge:

1. Less than 2", but not less than 1 3/4"

2. Less than 1 3/4"

c. Joined with one row of stitching. X

d. Seam line width of double stitching more than 1/64" X

e. Tight tension stitches break when normal strain is applied in lengthwise direction of the seam:

1. Both rows of stitching at same place.

2. Both rows of stitching at different places.

3. One row of stitching only.

I. Inseam Outlet.

a. Width of outlet on back parts less than 1", or more than 1-1/4" X

J. Crotch Lining Piece.

a. Constructed of one ply. X

b. Badly pleated, puckered, or twisted:

1. Not affecting smoothness on outside of bibber.

2. Affecting smoothness on outside of bibber.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

c. Not extending above fly notch. X

d. One ply not caught in over edge stitching seaming. X

e. Omitted on one or both sides. X

K. Seam Allowance construction.

a. Pleated or twisted at base of side seam covering *

L. Inseams.

a. Not pressed open

b. Inseam staggered at crotch by:

1. More than 1/8”, but not more than ¼”

2. More than ¼”

c. Outlet on back parts tight, causing fullness or twist on outside of bibbers.

d. Crotch lining piece tight or twisted, causing fullness or twist on outside of bibbers.

M. Suspender System

a. Damaged webbing affecting function *

b. Damaged webbing not affecting function (stains, frays) X

c. Sliders damaged, bent, cracked, rusted, rough or sharp edge *

d. Stitching not properly reinforced *

M. Bottom of Legs. Not pinked or serged X

4.8 Finished Measurement Defects. Any finished measurement deviation from the finished measurements specified in the finished measurement table shall be classified as a defect.

4.9. Examination of Preparation for Delivery Requirements. An examination shall be made to determine if packaging, packing, and marking requirements have been met. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully packed and selected just prior to the closing operation. The lot size shall be the number of containers in the inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-3 of ANSI Z1.4, and the acceptable quality level shall be 4.0 defects per 100 units. Shipping containers full prepared for delivery shall be examined for defects of closure and scored as follows:

PACKAGING AND SHIPPING DEFECTS

EXAMINE DEFECT

Marking Omitted; incorrect, illegible or improper size, location, sequence, or method of application.

Materials Any component missing. Any component damaged, affecting serviceability.

Workmanship Inadequate application of component such as: incomplete closure of case liners or inadequate stapling. Bulging or distortion of containers.

Content Number of intermediate packages is more or less than required.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1. Shipping Protection. The Garments shall be packaged in a manner that shall afford adequate protection against deterioration and damage during shipment to the USAF Academy for immediate use.

5.2 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order the interior and exterior packages shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended Use. The Garment covered by this specification is intended for use as a component of the Dress Uniform worn by cadets of the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2. Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Classification required (see 1.2).

c. Quantity required by size (See 1.4)

d. Availability of sample (see 3.1)

e. Requirements for Bid Sample (see 3.2.1).

f. Requirements for First Article (see 3.2.2).

g. Government furnished basic fabric (see 3.7.1).

h. Any special markings required (see 5.3.)

i. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein (See 5.1, 5.2, and 5.3).

6.3 Color Shade Samples. Sample USAFA color shades may be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

USAF Academy Cadet Uniforms Section (10 LRS/LGRCU) Colorado Springs CO 80840 USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

Reviewing Activity:

Cadet Logistics Chief (10LRS/LGRC) USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

CLOTH, WHITE, SPECIFICATIONS

Attachment 1

Galey & Lord Indestructible (9908-81)

White (4886)

- Fiber Content 65% Polyester/35% Combed Cotton (+ 3%)

- Finished Weight 7.7 oz/sq. yd (+ .3 oz)

- Finished Count 86 X 50

- Finished Width 64" - 65"

- Tensile Warp - 190 lb. (+ 10%)

Filling 125 Lt. (+ 10%)

- Shrinkage 3% maximum on warp

3% maximum on filling

- Shade White - (shade sample available upon request from bidders)

- Colorfastness No less than “good”. Must not yellow or darken with commercial laundering. MUST maintain shade against heavy perspiration.

- Finish Pre-cured soil release finish required.

- Transparency Must show NO transparency when worn as finished garment (after laundering).