Spec-11-PD 20014D T-Shirt PTG AF-SF Women-JAN2023_FINAL.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD 20014D

27 January 2023

SUPERSEDING

11-PD 20014C

13 December 2021

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

T-SHIRT, WOMEN’S: PHYSICAL TRAINING GEAR

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way

Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Physical Training Gear (PTG) t-shirt to be worn by U.S. Air Force (USAF) and U.S. Space Force (USSF) female personnel.

1.2 Classification. The t-shirts are to be of the following types and classes, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types. The types of women’s t-shirt are as follows:

Type I – Air Force Type II – Space Force

1.2.2 Classes. The classes of the women’s t-shirt are as follows:

Class 1 – 89 percent polyester/11 percent spandex, Air Force Shade Heather Gray 1672 Class 2 – 89 percent polyester/11 percent spandex, Space Force Shade Heather

Charcoal 1679

1.3 Sizes. The t-shirts are furnished in the following sizes (see 6.2):

Sizes Size

XX-Small X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XXXX-Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

11-PD 20007 Cloth, T-shirt Jersey Knit, Polyester, Spandex

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM143 Appearance of Apparel and Textile Products after Laundering AATCC TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manual are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Table for Inspection of Attributes (DoD

Adopted) (Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The jersey knit t-shirt shall be semi-fitted with short raglan sleeves and crew style neckline. The neckband shall be made of self-fabric. The t-shirt shall have chest, sleeve, and back reflective heat transfer designs.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows front view of t-shirts. Figure 2 shows back view of t-shirts. Figure 3 shows chest heat transfers of t-shirts. Figure 4 shows sleeve heat transfers of t-shirts. Figure 5 shows center back heat transfers of t-shirts. Figure 6 shows t-shirts’ label dimensions. Figure 7 shows t-shirts’ label placement. Figure 8 shows how to measure view of t-shirt. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Material.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the t-shirt shall be 89 percent polyester, 11 percent spandex elastomeric plaited jersey knit with moisture management and silver ion anti-microbial finish and conform to 11-PD 20007 Class 1 for Air Force Shade Heather Gray 1672, or Class 2 for Space Force Shade Heather Charcoal 1679.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Thread. The thread shall be polyester core, polyester-covered, Tex 27, 2-ply for single needle operations as well as the needles of the overlock machines and Tex 24, 2-ply shall be used for the loopers overlock and coverstitch machines conforming to A-A-50199 Type II. The color shall be a good match to the Class 1 or Class 2 basic basic materials. The thread shrinkage shall be less than 3 percent when tested using ASTM D204 in Table VI.

3.6.2 Reflective materials. The reflective heat transfer logos and trim(s) shall be produced using segmented heat transfer film made with glass-beaded reflective material. The heat transfer shall be applied using suppliers’ instructions and shall conform to specifications in 3.6.2.1, through 3.6.2.6.

3.6.2.1 Reflectivity. The photometric performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance with ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements prior to test exposure, and photometric measurements after the following test exposures: abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have a minimum initial level of reflectivity of 300 cd/lux/m2 and have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 after 50 wash cycles following AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i as specified in Table VI. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.2.2 Flaking and delamination after launderings. Reflective transfers shall show no signs of flaking, peeling or delaminating after 50 launderings in accordance with AATCC TM135, (1), IV, (A)i as specified in Table VI. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.2.3 Reflective on logo front left chest. The front left chest of the t-shirt shall have a silver reflective logo (see 6.4) conforming to the dimensions on Figure 3. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.2.4 Reflective stripe on sleeve and center back neck (Type I). The sleeve and center back neck of the t-shirt shall have a silver reflective segmented stripe conforming to the dimensions on Figure 4. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.2.5 Reflective text on sleeve (Type II). The sleeve of the t-shirt shall have a silver reflective “USSF” text conforming to the dimensions on Figure 4. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.2.6 Reflective text on back. The t-shirt shall have a silver reflective “AIR FORCE” text (Type I) or “SPACE FORCE” (Type II) (see 6.4), centered on the back, conforming to the dimensions in accordance with Figure 5. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.3 Labels. Each t-shirt shall have size/identification/instruction labels. All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements. The label shall have good (3.5 or better) colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC TM61 after five (5) launderings specified in Table VI.

3.6.3.1 Combination size/identification/instruction label. The heat transfer label for the t-shirt shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type III, Class 14. The label shall conform to the dimensions on Figure 6, and shall contain the following text for washing instructions:

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Type I t-shirt:

U.S. AIR FORCE

WOMEN’S PTG T-SHIRT

MADE IN USA

SIZE

89% POLYESTER/11% SPANDEX

TURN INSIDE OUT PRIOR TO

LAUNDERING

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH

LIKE COLORS

MILD DETERGENT

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTENER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

[This space intentionally left blank]

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Type II t-shirt:

U.S. SPACE FORCE

WOMEN’S PTG T-SHIRT

MADE IN USA

SIZE

89% POLYESTER/11% SPANDEX

TURN INSIDE OUT PRIOR TO

LAUNDERING

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH

LIKE COLORS

MILD DETERGENT

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTENER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

3.6.3.2 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a Type VI, Class 17, label/tag in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075. The label/tag shall be located in the side seam of the item and shall cause no damage to the item.

3.7 Performance Characteristics.

3.7.1 Reflective durability requirements. After application of the graphics on the garments an additional test shall be performed to ensure proper application of the transfers. The garments should be washed with a mild detergent and with the machine set on a normal/cotton sturdy cycle. Three (3) samples of each garment shall be tested in accordance with AATCC TM150 (1), IV, (A)i, as specified in Table VII. A visual inspection shall be performed after 50 washes. There shall be no evidence of flaking, peeling or delaminating. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.7.2 End item dimensional stability after laundering. End item shall not shrink or extend more than 3 percent in length after five (5) launderings in accordance with AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i, as specified in Table VII. One (1) garment from each size shall be tested.

3.8 Patterns. Government patterns that show directional lines, sizes, notches, placement for the proper assembling of the parts of the t-shirt will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows in Table I:

TABLE I. Seam allowances.

Seam Allowance Pattern

3/8 inch For attaching the neckband, sleeves, and side seams

3/4 inch For sleeve hem and sweep hem

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the t-shirt shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts

Basic (see 3.5.1) Front FRONT 1 Back BACK 1

Sleeve SLEEVE 2 Neckband NKBND 1

3.9 Construction. The t-shirt shall be constructed as specified in Table III, although the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed herein. The stitches per inch specified in Table III shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch.

3.9.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming and stitch types shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any of them may be used. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the finished t-shirt. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the t-shirt. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/8 inch. The guides and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/8 inch.

3.9.1.1 Stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.9.1.1.1 Repairs of stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the end of the stitching. When making the repair, the ends of the stitches are not required to be backstitched.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.9.1.2 Types 401, 406, and 506 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

3.9.1.2.1 Repairs of Types 401, 406, and 506 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.9.1.1.1 a. and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.

Repairs to Type 401 stitching may be accomplished by use of Type 301 stitching.

3.9.1.3 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.9.2 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three (3) overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.3 Cutting. The parts of the t-shirt shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.8 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table II.

3.9.4 Appearance of seams. The seams on the finished t-shirt shall finish smooth and flat and shall have an appearance rating of 4.0 or greater after five (5) launderings. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be as specified in Table VII.

3.10 Manufacturing operation requirements. The t-shirt shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table III. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table III, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. Any modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this purchase description. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or loose.

3.10.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the t-shirt shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each t-shirt. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

1. Cut basic material.

a. Cut the t-shirt in accordance with the patterns, which show directional lines, size, and notches for proper assembly of parts.

b. Spread the basic material without tension and allow to rest for 3-4 hours before cutting, to reduce shrinkage. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic material.

c. Cut all parts of t-shirt made from the basic material from the same piece of basic material.

2. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the t-shirt to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the t-shirt.

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

3. Replace defective and damaged parts.

a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

b. Replace any part of the t-shirt that is damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or an exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished t-shirt.

4. Reflective (Type I).

a. Position the logo reflective on the wearer’s front left chest following placement marker on the pattern. Apply the reflective according to the suppliers’ instructions.

b. Position the back neck striping and back text reflective following the placement marker on the pattern. Apply the reflective

c. Position the striping reflective on each sleeve following placement marker on the pattern. Apply the reflective according to the suppliers’ instructions.

5. Reflective (Type II).

a. Position the logo reflective on the wearer’s front left chest following placement marker on the pattern. Apply the reflective

b. Position the “USSF” reflective on each sleeve following placement marker on the pattern. Apply the reflective according to the suppliers’ instructions.

c. Position back text reflective following the placement marker on the pattern. Apply the reflective according to the suppliers’ instructions.

6. Labeling.

Position the size/identification/instruction label on the center back 3/4 inch below neckband seam. The size/identification/instruction label shall be applied according to the suppliers’ instructions and will face the wearer.

7. Raglan sleeves.

a. Overedge stitch the sleeves to the front and back panels. 506 SSa-1 8-10

b. Fold seam towards body and chain stitch 1/8 inch from seam. 401 LSbp-2(B) 10-12

8. Overedge stitch the body.

Overedge stitch the front and back together at side seams including sleeves.

506 SSa-1 8-10

9. Hems.

a. 1/4 inch coverstitch a 3/4 inch sweep hem on the t-shirt. 406 EFa-2 10-12

b. 1/4 inch coverstitch a 3/4 inch hem of the sleeve opening 406 EFa-2 10-12

10. Make and set neckband.

a. Overedge stitch ends of neckband together then turn and fold to create neckband.

506 SSa-1 8-10

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

10. Make and set neckband – Continued.

b. Set neckband to neckline of t-shirt aligning neckband seam with left back sleeve seam. Overedge stitch neckband to neckline.

506 SSa-1 8-10

c. Fold seam towards body and single needle chain stitch 1/8 inch from seam.

401 LSbp-2(B) 10-12

11. Clean t-shirt.

a. Trim all threads and remove loose threads from t-shirt.

Remove all spots and stains. The t-shirt shall be free of residual fibers particles, lint and dust, or other foreign substances.

b. Remove all shade tickets.

3.11 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the t-shirt shall conform to the dimensions specified in Table IV. When measured according to the method in 3.11.1. All measurements shall be in inches.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches).

Size 1/2

Chest (A)

1/2 Sweep

(B)

1/2 Sleeve

Opening (C)

Sleeve Length

(D)

Center Back

Length (E)

XX-Small 16-3/4 18-1/4 5-5/8 10-3/4 24-3/4 X-Small 17-3/4 19-1/4 6 11-1/4 25-1/4 Small 18-3/4 20-1/4 6-3/8 11-3/4 25-3/4 Medium 19-3/4 21-1/4 6-3/4 12-1/4 26-1/4 Large 21-1/4 22-3/4 7-3/8 12-3/4 26-3/4 X-Large 22-3/4 24-1/4 8 13-1/4 27-1/4 XX-Large 24-1/4 25-3/4 8-5/8 13-3/4 27-3/4 XXX-Large 25-3/4 27-1/4 9-1/4 14-1/4 28-1/4 XXXX-Large 27-1/4 28-3/4 9-7/8 14-3/4 28-3/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

RICHARDSON, TYLERR R CTR USAF AFMC AFLCMC/WNU

Fix formatting

Format to have table on same page

TABLE V. Finished reflective placement measurements (inches).

Size

Type I and II Type I Type II Type I and II Type I Type I and II Left Chest Reflective Logo from Neck Seam

(F)

Left Chest Reflective Logo from

Raglan Seam (G)

Left Chest Reflective Logo from

Raglan Seam (H)

Sleeve Reflective

(I)

Center Back Neck

Reflective (J)

Back Reflective

Logo (K)

All 5-1/2 1-1/4 2 1-1/4 5/8 5-3/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

3.11.1 Methods of measurement. The t-shirt shall be laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows (see Figure 8):

(A) 1/2 Chest Measure across from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of armhole.

(B) 1/2 Sweep Measure across from folded edge to folded edge at bottom hem.

(C) 1/2 Sleeve Opening Measure the bottom hem of the sleeve from folded edge to folded edge.

(D) Sleeve Length Measure from neck joining seam at high point shoulder to bottom edge of sleeve hem.

(E) Center Back Length Measure from the center back neck, at collar joining seam, down to edge of t-shirt hem.

(F) Left Chest Reflective Logo from Neck Seam

Measure from where the neck seam and raglan seams meet to the bottom center point of the logo or Type I and the imaginary line of the center point of the logo for Type II.

(G) Left Chest Reflective Logo from Raglan Seam (Type I)

Measure from the wearer’s left at tip of logo straight across to the raglan seam.

(H) Left Chest Reflective Logo from Raglan Seam (Type II)

Measure from the top point of logo straight across to the raglan seam.

(I) Sleeve Reflective Measure from the edge of the sleeve hem to the bottom edge of reflective.

(J) Center Back Neck Reflective (Type I)

Measure from center back neck seam to top of reflective stripe.

(K) Back Reflective Logo Measure from center back neck seam to top of “AIR FORCE” or “SPACE FORCE” reflective text.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished t-shirt shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each t-shirt shall be examined and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. A t-shirt containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in Table VIII indicated by an asterisk. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article inspection shall be performed on the t-shirt when a first article sample is required (see 3.1). The sample size will be as specified and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality Conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined by the contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.3.1 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.3.1.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in

Table VI shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table VI shall be followed. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:

Component Lot size unit Sample unit

Thread Reflective

Label

Spool Sheet Piece

3 each thread 1 each design 3 each label

TABLE VI. Component tests.

Thread Shrinkage 3.6.1 ASTM D204

Label Colorfastness to Laundering 3.6.3 AATCC TM61, 2A 1/, 2/

Reflective Flaking and delamination 3.6.2.2 AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i

Reflectivity 3.6.2.1 ANSI/ISEA 107 AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i

1/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining or AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects.

Whenever nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.3.3 End item testing.

The appearance rating of the seams and stitching, reflective durability, and dimensional stability after laundering of the finished t-shirt shall be tested and examined in accordance with Table VII.

NOTE: Shade parts – There shall be no variation in shade within a part or between parts.

TABLE VII. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Seam Appearance 3.9.4 AATCC TM143 (1), VI, (A)i Reflective durability after 50 washes (flaking and delaminating)

3.7.1 AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i

Dimensional stability after 5 launderings 3.7.2 AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i

4.3.4 End item dimensional examination. The t-shirt shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table IV. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of the t-shirts. The inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method

4.3.5 End item dimensional inspection. In accordance with 3.11, finished t-shirts shall meet the measurements in Table IV when measured as specified in 3.11.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

4.3.6 End item visual examination. Finished t-shirts shall be examined for visual defects in accordance with the defects listed in Table VIII. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item examinations of t-shirts, dimensional examination, and packaging inspection shall be performed in accordance with purchase order or contract. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

TABLE VIII. Defects.

Material Defects and Damages Major Minor A

Minor B

a. Any hole, cut, tear, mend, drop stitch, loose knit, miss knit, slub, streak, or knitted-in waste 1/ *

b. Abrasion damaging the fabric *

c. Any broken yarns *

d. Any vertical runs *

e. Needle chew that might develop into hole 1/ *

f. Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn 1/ *

Shaded Parts

a. Shade varying within a part or between two (2) or more parts on outside of garment *

b. Color not as specified X

Cleanliness

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of t-shirt X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of t-shirt X

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of t-shirt or two (2) or more markings not removed

X

Components

a. Any component part omitted, damaged, full, tight, or twisted

b. Any component part off-grain *

Seams and Stitching

a. Loose or tight tension resulting in loose or tight seams X

b. Any seam puckered, distorted, pleated, irregular or open *

TABLE VIII. Defects – Continued.

Material Defects and Damages Major Minor A

Minor B

Seams and Stitching – Continued

c. Distorted pleated, or irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more 2/

X

d. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more X

e. Unsecured seams or stitching (not backstitched at least 1/2 inch) or caught in a cross seam 2/ X

f. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced 2/ X

g. Thread breaks stitched less than 1/2 inch beyond each end of break 2/

X

h. Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability X

i. Topstitching not finishing as specified X

j. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch X

k. Raw edges, open seams X

l. Distorted parts or poor workmanship X

m. Any part of garment caught in unrelated operation or stitching

X

Reflective Heat Transfers

a. Heat transfers applied incorrectly *

b. Heat transfers placement not as specified *

c. Heat transfers or text peeling *

Labels

a. Heat transfer label missing, incorrect, or illegible X

b. Heat transfer label positioned or attached incorrectly X

c. Heat transfer label applied incorrectly *

d. Heat transfer label placement not as specified *

e. Heat transfer label text peeling *

Dimensions

a. Measurement of item not as specified or not within tolerance

TABLE VIII. Defects – Continued.

Material Defects and Damages Major Minor A

Minor B

Dimensions – Continued.

b. Sleeves more than 1/2 inch different when compared to each other

X

* Defects marked with an asterisk are major defects if they affect serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability.

1/ If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is non-weakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein.

2/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge or top stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.

3/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Run-offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams.

5/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.

4.4 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and

4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.5 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The t-shirts are intended to be worn by Military personnel of the Department of the Air Force and Space Force.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Types, classes, and sizes required (see 1.2 and 1.3).

c. Quantity required.

d. When a first article sample is required (see 3.1).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

f. Issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

g. Conformance inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

6.3 Material sources. All the suggested material sources shall be provided for reference.

6.3.1 Reflective material source. A suggested source for reflective transfer material featuring 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material 8725N and 5721 glass-beaded reflective material is Safe Reflections, Inc. 3220 Granada Ave. N, Saint Paul, MN USA 55128, (651) 748- 7955, www.SafeReflections.com (see 3.6.2). Table IX provides related style numbers for each reflective type and placement.

6.3.2 T-shirt fabric material source. A suggested source for the t-shirt fabric material featuring 89 percent Polyester and 11 percent Spandex, moisture wicking, and silver anti-microbial, Air Force Shade Heather Gray 1672 and Space Force Shade Heather Charcoal 1679 materials is Everest Textile USA LLC, 1331 West Main Street, Forest City, NC 28043, (828) 245-2696, www.everest-textile.com (see 3.5.1). Table IX provides related style number.

Table IX. Sources.

Types Description/ Placement Manufacturer Style Number

Type I Silver Single Stripe Roll/ Right and Left Sleeve, and Center Back Neck

Safe Reflections RC-8725N06-20758-0000-CP4

Type I

Silver Large Air Force Logo/ Center Back Safe Reflections HC-LTS5721-21160-0000-SC-D2

Silver Air Force Logo/ Left Front Chest Safe Reflections HC-LTS5721-21161-0000-SC-D2

Air Force Shade Heather Gray 1672 T-Shirt Fabric

Everest Textile USA LLC Style number: LA50A0034UVQDMBS-881

Type II

Silver Space Force Logo/ Left Front Chest Safe Reflections HC-HLS5721-21331-0000-SC-D2

Silver USSF Sleeve Logo Safe Reflections HC-HLS5721-21170-0000-SC-D2 Space Force Shade Heather Charcoal 1679 T-shirt Fabric

Everest Textile USA LLC Style number: LA50A0034UVQDMBS-881

6.4 Standard sample, artwork, and Government pattern. For access to standard shade samples, artwork, and Government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

PTG

Reflective

Jersey Knit

FIGURE 1. T-shirt, Physical Training Gear, front view.

Type I Type II

FIGURE 2. T-shirt, Physical Training Gear, back view.

FIGURE 3. Logos for front chest heat transfer (see 6.4).

2-1/4 inches in width

2 inches in height

1-1/2 inches in width

2-1/4 inches in height

FIGURE 4. Sleeve heat transfers.

Type I Type

II

3-1/4 inches in height

5/8 inch in width

1-4/5 inches in height

2-3/4 inches in width

Type I (center back neck)

FIGURE 5. Center back heat transfers (see 6.4).

Type I

Type

II

2-1/2inches in height

12 inches in width

2-3/8 inches in height

12 inches in width

3-1/4 inches in height

5/8 inch in width

FIGURE 6. Label heat transfers (see 6.4).

1-7/10 inches

2-2/5 inches

1-7/10 inches

2-2/5 inches

Type I Type

II

FIGURE 7. T-shirt, center back neck label placement.

3/4 inch down from center back neck seam

FIGURE 8. T-shirt, Physical Training Gear, How to Measure.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review activities:

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT