A-A55199A.pdf

INCH-POUND

A-A-55199A

November 4, 2019

SUPERSEDING

A-A-55199

May 20, 1993

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

NECKTIE

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item

Description for all Federal agencies.

1. SCOPE. This Commercial Item Description covers the requirements for polyester/wool and polyester neckties intended for wear by male military personnel of the Department of

Defense.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The neckties shall be one type in the following classes:

Class 3 - Khaki M-1 (Marine Corps)

Class 4 - Deleted

Class 5 - Black 439 (Army and Navy)

Class 6 - Blue 1622 (Air Force)

3. SALIENT CHARACTORISTICS.

3.1 Description. The necktie shall be a two-fold, four-in-hand design, with pointed ends, machine sewn center seam, interlinings, a retainer loop and ends faced with basic material (see

Figure 1). Neckties may be cut in 2 pieces, with pieces matching each other. The piecing shall be not less than 17 inches nor more than 28 inches from the small end of the tie.

The retainer loop shall be fused at the ends prior to assembly, and shall finish on the underside of necktie, centered horizontally with a ± 1/8 inch tolerance and 8 ± 1/4 inches from bottom point of the necktie with no twists or puckers.

Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: DLA Troop Support, Clothing and

Textiles Directorate, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8440

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2024-01-29T18:24Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

The identification label shall be positioned to the wide end of interlining, 1/4 to 3/8 inch from bottom edge, and stitched on all four sides. As an alternate method for label and loop shall consist of a combination retainer loop and identification label set according to normal commercial practices with the color and information as required by the contract, the DLA color and logo, and contractor's name printed on the face side with the backside containing all other label information requirements. The label/loop shall be set to the back of the bottom-wide end of the necktie such that the narrow end of the tie shall pass through the loop/label

WITHOUT DISTORTION. The wide end of the interlining shall extend from 3-1/2 to 4 inches from finished point of wide end of necktie. The interlinings shall be free for a distance of 2 to

2-1/2 inches at the wide end of necktie. The finished necktie shall be pressed, with the center seam centered, and without any seam impression or gloss.

3.2 Material. The basic material for the class 6 neckties shall be polyester conforming to class

5 of A-A-52106 except that the fabric shall be made from dyed black warp and dyed navy filling to match Air Force shade 1622. Note-the black (filling effect) side of A-A-52106 class

5 fabric shall be used as the face side of the class 6 necktie. The basic material for the class 3, and class 5 neckties shall be polyester and wool tropical blend cloth conforming to the following requirements:

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Class 3

Weave

Yarn ply Plain 2ply visual 2/

Weight (oz./linear yd., 56 inches basis min.)

8.1 to 8.9 ASTM D 3776

Yarns per inch (min.) 55 warp, 47 filling ASTM D 3775

Breaking strength (lbs.)(min.) 100 warp, 80 filling ASTM D 5034

Shrinkage (%)(max.) 2.5 warp, 2.5 filling AATCC 99

Fiber content 75% ± 5% polyester, 25% ± 5% wool

1/

Classes 5

Weave plain visual 2/

Weight (oz./linear yd., 56 inches basis min.)

7.5 ASTM D 3776

Yarns per inch (min.) 55 warp, 48 filling ASTM D 3775

Breaking strength (lbs.)(min.) 70 warp, 65 filling ASTM D 5034

Shrinkage (%) (max.) 4.0 warp, 3.0 filling AATCC 99

Fiber content 55% ± 5% polyester, 40% wool 1/

Alternate

Weave plain visual 2/

Weight (oz./linear yd., 60 inches basis min.)

8.5 ASTM D 3776

Yarns per inch (min.) 56 warp, 46 filling ASTM D 3775

Breaking strength (lbs.)(min.) 120 warp, 110 filling ASTM D 5034

Shrinkage (%) (max.) 2 warp, 2 filling AATCC 99

Fiber content 68% polyester, 25% acrylic, 7% mohair

1/

1/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements.

2/ One determination shall be made of each sample unit and the results reported as “Pass” or

“Fail”.

3.2.2 Color. The color of the neckties shall be Khaki M-1 for Class 3, Black 439 for Class 5 and Blue 1622 for class 6 neckties. The color of the basic material shall match the standard sample when viewed under a filtered tungsten lamp that approximates artificial daylight, has a correlated color temperature of 7500 ± 200 Kelvin, with illumination of 100 ± 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800 ± 200

Kelvin. The finished cloth shall meet the following characteristics:

TABLE II. Colorfastness Requirements

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Colorfastness to:

Light

Laundering

Perspiration

Crocking

Wet dry cleaning

Class 4

Class 4

AATCC 16

AATCC 61

AATCC 15

AATCC 8

AATCC 132

3.3 Interlining. The interlining for the neckties shall be a crease resistant, natural color, polyester/acrylic/wool cloth, or as an alternate polyester/rayon cloth may be used and shall conform to the following requirements:

TABLE III. Interlining Physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement Test

Method

Weave plain 2/

Weight 9.0 to 10.5 ounces (min.) per square yard ASTM D

Yarns per inch (min.) Warp 29-32, filling 19 picks min. ASTM D

Fiber content

10% (min.) wool, 50% ± 5% polyester, with remaining percentage acrylic

1/

Fiber content

(alternate)

70% polyester, 30% Rayon, +/- 10% either polyester or rayon.

1/

1/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements. 2/ One determination shall be made on each sample unit and the results reported as “Pass” or “Fail”.

3.4 Thread. The thread for all classes of neckties shall be cotton, Ticket No. A, Tex 50, 3 ply conforming to type III of A-A-52094. As an alternate, cotton-covered polyester thread, Ticket

No. 50, Tex 36-45, 2 ply, conforming to type I of A-A-50199 shall be used. If automatic tie folding and sewing machine is used, the thread used shall be 100% polyester with continuous multifilament, twisted soft multiple cord, normal elongation, and a non-wicking finish, Tex 70, 3 ply, with a breaking strength of 8.0 lbs., when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM D-

1578 (5 determinations shall be made per sample). As an alternate, a 46 tex nylon thread, type

I, soft finish, conforming to A-A-59826 with a Z twist and having a minimum breaking strength of 6 pounds may be used.

The polyester thread shall show a minimum of Class color fastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in Test Method AATCC 132. The color o the thread for the neckties shall be

Khaki P-1 (C. A. 66019) for class 3, Blue M (C. A. 66027) for class 4 and class 6, and Black

AA (C. A. 66043) for class 5.

3.5 Tape. The tape for the retainer loop shall be a 3/4 (± 1/32) inch wide plain weave of bright, high tenacity, light and heat resistant polyamide nylon yarn. The weight shall be 0.20 oz./linear

yd. when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM D-3776, Option C, and the thickness shall be .015 - .025 inch when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM D-1777.

3.6 Label/marking. Each necktie shall have a combination identification and size label for neckwear. The marking medium may be either direct printing, stamping, or stenciling, except size shall not apply. The label shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning in accordance with

AATCC Test Method 132. Barcoding of each unit shall be as specified by the procuring activity.

3.7 Bar code label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar coded with a type viii, class 17, label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075. The label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item."

3.8 Patterns. The government shall furnish a pattern. The pattern generally provides for a 1/4 inch seam allowance for points and a 3/8 inch seam allowance for the center seam. The government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation; however, if the working patterns are modified, the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by government patterns. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the government furnished pattern provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements.

3.9 Measurements. The finished neckties shall conform to the measurements cited in Figure 1.

3.10 Workmanship. The finished neckties shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS.

The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation

(FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. 5.2 Examination. Necktie lots shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling

Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes”, ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, published by the

American Society for Quality Control.

5.2.3 Visual Examination. The necktie shall be examined for the defects listed below.

Defects. The necktie shall be examined for the following defects: any hole, cut, tear, needle chew or weakening defect in the material; color not as “specified; any spot or stain (outside);

thread ends not removed; tape having any holes, tears, cuts, or frayed edges; interlining and interlining strip missing, pleated, puckered, or not laying flat; retainer loop missing, twisted or puckered; pointed ends poorly shaped, or twisted, affecting appearance ; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner, human readable interpretation (HEI) omitted or illegible. not visible on folded packaged item, causes damage on the item.

5.2.4 Dimensional Examination. The finished necktie shall conform to the dimensions specified.

5.2.5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING.

Preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see

7.3).

7. NOTES.

7.1 Sources of documents.

7.1.1 Copies of government documents are available online at https://assist.dla.mil/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19115094.

7.1.2 Sources of Nongovernment Documents.

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables For Inspection By

Attributes

Copies are available online from https://www.asq.org. or from The American National

Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308.)

AATCC Test Methods

Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or from AATCC

National Headquarters, P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.

ASTM Test Methods

Copies of documents are available online at https://www.astm.org or from the ASTM

INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.

Custodians: Civil Agency Coordinating Activity:

Army- GL GSA - FSS

Navy- NU

Air Force - 11 Preparing Activity

DLA - CT

Review Activity:

Army - MD Project No. 8440-2020-003.

Navy - MC

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/ http://assist.daps.dla.mil/ https://assist.dla.mil/

FIGURE 1

NECKTIE

DIMENSIONS IN INCHES

CLASS SIZE A B C D E

MIN. MAX.

3, 5 (ARMY ONLY)

6 (AIR FORCE ONLY)

56 57-1/2 3-1/8

1-1/2 1-1/8 8

5 (NAVY & MARINE

CORPS ONLY)

REG

EXTRA-LONG

55 57

59 61

3-1/8

3-1/8

1-1/2

1-1/2

1-1/8

1-1/8

TOLERANCE +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 ± 1/8 ± 1/4