NCTRF PD 13-98B Navy Dress Shoe.pdf

AMSC N/A FSC 8430

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

NCTRF PD 13-98B

CAGE Code: 32263

10 July 2023

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 13-98A

30 September 2003

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHOES, DRESS, LEATHER, OXFORD, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

This purchase description is approved for use by the Department of the Navy and the Defense Logistics Agency.

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for men’s and women’s commercial plain-toe, oxford leather dress shoes to be worn by military personnel.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The shoes will be available in one type, sizes and widths as follows:

2.1 Sizes and widths.

Sizes:

Men’s:

3 5-1/2 8 10-1/2 13 3-1/2 6 8-1/2 11 13-1/2 4 6-1/2 9 11-1/2 14 4-1/2 7 9-1/2 12 15 5 7-1/2 10 12-1/2 16

Women’s:

4 7 9 11 13 5-1/2 7-1/2 9-1/2 11-1/2 13-1/2 6 8 10 12 14 6-1/2 8-1/2 10-1/2 12-1/2

Widths:

Men’s: N (C), M (D), W (E), EW (3E)

Women’s: XN (3A), N (2A), M (B), W (D), EW (2E)

Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, and any data that may improve this document should be sent to: Attn: DLA Troop Support, 700 Robbins Avenue. Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096.

INCH-POUND

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. Each pair of shoes shall be a fully lined oxford dress design utilizing a plain toe, hudson back seam and insert. Shoes shall have a rubber outsole/heel and be constructed using a plastic storm-welt. The shoes shall lace and have an invisible (blind) eyelet system consisting of five (5) eyelets for men and four (4) eyelets for women. All shoes shall be available in black color.

3.1.1 Soling Description. Shoes shall utilize a rubber traction outsole/heel design.

3.1.2 Construction Description. The welted construction shall have a commercial goodyear plastic storm welt that goes through the outsole and be stitched completely around the heel of the shoe with a nail-attached heel.

3.1.3 Figures. Figures 1 – 8 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall take precedence.

3.2 Materials. Unless otherwise specified, the shade of all visible components shall be black.

3.2.1 Upper leather. The leather uppers shall be chrome tanned cattlehide dress shoe leather and shall conform to Type I, Treatment C of MIL-PRF-3122, Class 1 (Full grain) or 2 (Corrected grain). Leather for the gusset-tongue, eyelet stays, quarter, and various cut parts shall conform to MIL-PRF-3122, Type II, Class 1 or 2, Treatment C, with a soft temper except for ASTM D2212 slit tear resistance shall not be less than 23 pounds. The break of vamp or quarter leather shall not be greater than No. 5 on SATRA Break Scale Method when tested in accordance with SATRA TM36. Tannery and shoe factory dyes/finishes applied to the leather shall be compatible with each other and shall not change the uniformity of color, appearance, durability or shine of the shoes. The finished shoe leather shall be capable of being polished to a high luster with a commercial paste wax before and after normal use.

3.2.1.1 Thickness of uppers. Thickness of leather uppers shall be 4 to 4-1/2-ounce. Skiving is allowed on small parts.

3.2.2 Outsole and Heel Material. Rubber outsole and heel materials shall be in accordance with paragraphs 3.1.1 and 3.1.2 meet the requirements of Table I. The total height of the combined heel and outsole, measured from the base of the heel to top of the outsole, shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/4) inch in total height measured from base of heel to top of the outsole aligned with the posterior heel.

TABLE I. Outsole component requirements.

Characteristic Requirements Test Method

DIN Abrasion Resistance, mm3 (maximum)

300 ASTM D5963

3.2.2.1 Outsole. The outsole for the shoe shall be non-marking rubber with the manufacturer’s commercial traction design having a total forefoot thickness between 16 (± 8) irons. The heels shall be non-marking rubber with a traction design having a stack height of 3/4 (± 1/4) inches measured from base of the heel to the bottom of the outsole piece aligned with the posterior heel.

3.3 Manufacture name/trademark on outsole/heels. The manufacturer’s name or trademark may appear on the bottom outsole/heels or the cushion insert.

3.4 Lasts. Dress shoe lasts shall be in accordance with manufacturer’s standard patterns, dies and markers. The shoes shall be made on commercial lasts and are subject to review and approval of the government.

3.4.1 Last dimensions. Lasts known to meet the dimensional requirements of this document are Jones & Vining part number 4-0375BG-2 or 404 – M-4907-6 for men’s dress shoes and M-4997- 2 for women’s dress shoes. The numerical size of the shoe shall correspond with the American numerical size of the last used.

3.5 Plastic storm welting. The shoes shall have a goodyear plastic storm welt which in the finished shoe shall continue completely around the perimeter of the heel. The welting shall be uniform in appearance and texture and be free of blemishes, cracks, blisters, voids or overlaps.

3.5.1 Heel nailing. Nails used shall be steel, cut or wire type, suitable for inside heel nailing processes. The nails shall secure the rubber heel to the shoe so that it does not separate or fall off.

3.6 Insole. The shoes shall have a commercial insole material with a minimum thickness of 3- 1/2 irons and meet the requirements of Table II. The insole shall have a commercial grade rib.

The assembled insole and rib shall meet a minimum pull value of 8 pounds when tested in accordance with ASTM D5034.

TABLE II. Insole component requirements.

Characteristic Requirements Test Method

Tensile Strength, kgf/cm2 (minimum) Wet

SATRA TM2

Flexing Index at 5,000 cycles (minimum) 3.7 SATRA TM3 Abrasion Resistance Dry after 25,600 cycles Wet after 6,400 cycles

No worse than moderate

SATRA TM31,

Method A

Dimensional change with moisture content growth, percentage (maximum)

0.7

SATRA TM98

Peel strength, kgf/cm (minimum) 0.5 width SATRA TM101 Mildew Resistance Level 10 ASTM D3273

3.7 Shank. The steel or fiberglass shanks shall be bonded to the insole and shall conform to the shape of the last.

3.8 Filler. Cork or a resilient foam filler shall be used in the goodyear welt voids.

3.9 Box-toe/counter. A thermoplastic box-toe and counter shall provide structural support to the toe and heel areas of the shoe when molded and symmetrically fit to the toe area and counter pocket.

3.10 Lining. The lining material used in the vamp, quarters and tongue areas shall be black or gray colored cloth that shall conform to the requirements and testing specified in Table III. The lining material shall then be adhered to a 0.098 (± 0.005) inch thick open cell polyester foam with a spun lace backer.

TABLE III. Lining requirements

Characteristics Requirements Test Method

Face cloth layer

Martindale abrasion, revolutions/cycles (minimum) Fabric only (Dry)

Pass, no holes at 153,600 revolutions/

9,600 cycles

ASTM D4966 1/

Bursting Strength, pounds, (minimum) Fabric Only

ASTM D3787

1/ As described in the test method; Martindale Tester; Pressure applied: 12 KPa; Visually examine specimens after each 3200 cycles; Abradant changed after each 3200 cycles. Use Option 1 for evaluation; no hole appears.

3.11 Laces. The laces shall be a good match to the ground shade, shall be a round nylon braid and conform to the requirements of A-A55093, Type II, Class 1. The lace tips shall have sufficient rigidity to perform their intended function. The length shall be sufficient to properly lace the shoe as outlined in Table III.

TABLE III. Shoe lace requirements.

Shoe Size Lace Length 3 through 16 30 - 36-inches

3.12 Eyelets. The eyelets shall be commercially acceptable nickel-plated brass or anodized aluminum eyelet positioned on the back side of the eye stay. Size of eyelet shall accommodate the diameter of the laces (see 3.11). There shall be five (5) pair of eyelets evenly spaced on each quarter for men’s and four (4) pairs for women’s. Eyelets shall be secured and uniformly clinched.

3.13 Insert. Each shoe shall have a correctly sized slip-in or removable cushioned insert or footbed designed to provide enhanced foot comfort and shall conform to the requirements listed in TABLE IV.

TABLE IV. Insert requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Foam Insert Density, kg/m3 256-320 ASTM D3574

Compression set @ 25% @77°F, percent, (maximum)

ASTM D3574

Tensile strength, kilopascals (minimum)

ASTM D3574

Durometer hardness, Shore 00 55-65 ASTM D2240 Fabric Lining Martindale Abrasion (minimum)

(Dry)

Pass, no holes at 153,600 revolutions

/9,600 cycles

ASTM D4966 1/

Bursting Strength, lbs. (minimum) 125 ASTM D3787 1/ As described in the test method; Martindale Tester; Pressure applied: 12 KPa; Visually examine specimens after each 3200 cycles; Abradant changed after each 3200 cycles. Use Option 1 for evaluation; no hole appears.

3.14 Thread. The various commercial sewing threads in the fitting operation and during the goodyear welt outsole stitching. The upper fitting bobbin thread may match the color of the shoe lining. The physical properties of each thread (size, ply, twist, breaking strength, elongation) shall be selected to provide reliable shoe performance for the life of the shoe.

3.15 Labeling.

3.15.1 Marking, permanent identification. Each shoe shall be permanently marked with the correct American sizes and widths, the contract number (Example: 04-D-1234), National Stock Number (NSN), lot number/manufacturing date and the company or brand name on the inside of the shoe on the interior of the tongue or quarter lining. The marking may be in the form of a label and shall be done in accordance with acceptable commercial practices, and it shall not reduce footwear functionality. The shoe shall contain a manufacturing tracking lot number and age code. Unit packs shall include Management Control Number (MCN) or NSN and Universal Product Code (UPC) bar codes as specified in the contract or purchase order. Each symbol shall be human and scanner readable. All marking information shall be legible.

3.16 End item requirements. Finished shoes shall be tested for the characteristics listed in TABLE V. The sample size shall be five (5) shoes per lot. The lot shall not be acceptable if one or more samples fail any test.

3.16.1 Bond strength. The bond achieved between the shoe outsole, midsole and upper shall be resistant to any delamination. Testing shall be performed on the end item as specified see Table V.

3.16.2 Slip resistance. Shoes shall be tested for slip resistance in the heel and forepart and shall have a coefficient of friction (COF) not less than value specified in Table V.

TABLE V. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Bond strength, pounds (Minimum) Outsole to cushion midsole 100 3.16.3.1 Entire sole to upper construction 130 3.16.3.2 Slip Resistance, COF, (Minimum) Dry Wet

ASTM F3445

0.40 0.40

ASTM F2913

3.16.3 Methods of test.

3.16.3.1 Bond strength test of outsole to midsole.

3.16.3.1.1 Specimen. The specimen shall be a finished shoe which has aged at least 2 days. The outsole shall be separated from the cushion midsole for approximately 2-1/2 inches each from the toe end of the specimen.

3.16.3.1.2 Apparatus and procedure. A power-driven tensile tester or an approved testing device of equal performance, shall be used. The rate of travel of the power-actuated grip shall be 2 inches per minute. The machine shall be operated with a device for maintaining maximum load indication. The separate toe ends of the specimen shall be clamped in the jaws of the machine.

The specimen shall extend outward at right angles to the direction of the application load. The machine shall be started, and the surface being tested shall be pulled apart to a distance of not more than 4-1/2 inches from the toe. Upon attaining that degree of separation, the load indicated on the machine shall be read and recorded. If the required load is achieved (at any time during the pull test) the test is deemed as passing.

3.16.3.2 Bond strength test of entire soling system to oxford upper.

3.16.3.2.1 Specimen. The test specimen shall be legibly marked on each side at two points (2 inches and 4 inches from the tip of the toe). The entire soling system shall then be separated from the upper to the 2-inch mark. The separation may be aided by any suitable device or machine capable of withstanding the amount of force necessary to accomplish separation. The toe cap of the shoe shall be removed to facilitate mounting of the specimen in the tester. In event that the point of separation at the 2-inch mark is not between the upper and the soling system, that portion of the soling system remaining adhered to the upper shall be separated manually (with the aid of a knife or other instrument), to show separation between leather and soling system. Care should be taken to be sure that the leather is not cut.

3.16.3.2.2 Apparatus and procedure. The apparatus for measuring outsole/upper separation shall be as described in test method ASTM D2208. The separated toe portion of the shoe shall be gripped by one clamp in a manner such that the minimum effective jaw surface area applied shall be 1 inch by 1 inch. The jaw surface shall be centered approximately 1/2 inch to 1 inch from the tip of the toe. The other jaw surface shall hold the overlay portion of the separated upper, and it shall not be less than 1 inch by 2 inches, with the long dimensions perpendicular to the pull of the machine. The machine shall be set in operation and the separation continued at a speed of 10 inches per minute until the outsole is separated from the upper to a point past the mark 4 inches from the tip. The maximum value attained during separation shall be taken as the bond strength.

3.17 Equal item. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

3.18 Workmanship. The shoes shall conform to the quality of product established by this product description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits. Stitching and seams shall be in accordance with the requirements in ASTM D6193.

Shoes shall be laced and neatly packed for shipment.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered, recycled, bio based, and environmentally preferable materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403, 23.404(b) of the Federal Acquisition Regulation FAR, or the sustainable acquisition of EO 13693; as applicable.

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. Each pair of shoes provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market.

The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract or purchase order. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract or purchase order. The government reserves the right to perform verification testing on any test results submitted by the footwear manufacture.

5.1.1 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the visual examination of

5.3 and end item testing in 3.16. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract or purchase order (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 with acceptance quality limits (AQL’s) as specified in the contract.

5.2 Market acceptance. The shoes must have been sold to the commercial market or the Government.

5.3 Visual examination. Each pair of shoes shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VI, VII and VIII in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.2). The lot size shall be expressed in units of pair of shoes. The sample unit is one (1) pair of shoes. Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet. Any shoes having these workmanship/quality defects shall be returned to the contractor for replacement.

5.3.1 In-process inspections. Unless otherwise specified, visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components that can be classified as defects shall be removed from production.

5.3.1.1 Pre-fitting examination of leather, cut parts. The cut parts shall be examined for the defects listed in TABLE VI before fitting. The lot size shall be expressed in units of cut parts.

The sample unit shall be one cut part. Appearance defects shall be scored only when the condition is plainly visible at a distance of 3 feet.

SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE VI. Leather cut part defects.

Examine Defect Classification Major Minor

Upper leather Color not as specified, not even, shaded, color penetration is not throughout the thickness of the hide

Not corrected or full grain 102 Leather deeply snuffed; i.e. fiber structure damaged 103 Grub or tick damage, deep scratches, brands or bony leather

Fat wrinkles or pronounced veins 105 Stretchy vamp 106 Thickness exceeding the maximum specified (see 3.2.1.1)

Rough fiber on flesh side 201 Off-stretch cut 202 Slaughter cut or flesh cut 108 Grain surface embossed or printed 109

Quarter side panels Not as specified 110 Gusset-tongue and collar leather

Flanky, loose flesh, boney, boardy, or deformed 203

5.3.1.2 In-process examination of uppers after all fitting. The upper assemblies shall be examined for the defects listed in TABLE VII. The lot size shall be expressed in units of upper assemblies prepared for lasting. The sample unit shall be one completely fabricated upper assembly prepared for lasting.

TABLE VII. Examination of uppers after all fitting

Major Minor Construction and workmanship (general)

Any component missing or not specified type 111 Any component misplaced or not affixed as specified

Any cut, tear, hole, repair, or factory damage 113 Hudson back seam malformed 204

Leather Thickness more than 1/2 ounce less than minimum specified (see 3.2.1)

Thickness less than specified minimum but not exceeding 1/2 ounces less (see 3.2.1.1)

Thickness more than maximum specified (see 3.2.1.1)

Off-stretch cut 207

TABLE VII. Examination of uppers after all fitting – Continued.

Major Minor Upper lining Torn, loose or wrinkled 115

Not properly mated with upper 116 Not pulled smooth and tight 117 Poorly constructed or discolored 118

5.4.1 End item visual inspection. The finished shoes shall be examined for the defects listed in TABLE VIII. Defects of shoe pairing shall be classified as a single defect. The inspector shall check to see that cushion inserts are inserted in the shoes. For the pairing examination, and when determining possible differences in outsole thickness, the pair shall be examined together.

Appearance defects shall be scored only when the condition is plainly visible at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VIII. Classification of end item defects.

Major Minor

Pairing

Not properly mated; i.e., not right and left of same size.

Variation in color, luster or appearance. 120 Visible difference of more than 1/4 inch in height between left and right paired shoes.

Visible difference in outsole thickness between left and right paired shoes

- more than 3/32 inch

- more than 1/16 inch, but not more than 3/32 inch

Cleanliness, color and finish

Any non-removable spot, stain, or foreign matter. 209 Color not as specified. 123 Color not uniform. 210 Finish streaky, chipped, or flaky on upper or shows runs on uppers.

Any raw edges not stained to match upper leather. 212 Design Not as specified. 124 General construction and workmanship

Any cut, tear, hole, repair or damage. 125 Any component or assembly omitted, misplaced;

operation omitted, not properly performed.

Properly laced 213

TABLE VIII. Classification of end item defects – Continued

Major Minor

End item defects – Continued Seams and stitching Open seam not repaired. 127

Tight tension resulting in puckering or cutting of the leather.

Loose tension resulting in a loosely secured seam. 129 Stitching omitted where needed. 130 Gauge of stitching irregular for more than 2 inches. 131 Gauge of stitching irregular for less than 2 inches. 132 Thread ends not trimmed throughout the shoe. 214

Thread Color not as specified. 215 Edge-making Edge trimmed (Style 1) into sole stitching; edge not trimmed square or trimming irregular

Counter Rolled, curled, not filling counter pocket area or not properly positioned.

Box toe Crooked, long or short 135 Eyelets Number of eyelets not as specified in each row. 136

Not same number of eyelets in each row. 137 Eyelet not properly spaced within the row or misalignment between the rows to an extent interfering with proper lacing.

Color not as specified 139 Finish not durable. 140 Any eyelet omitted, not securely clinched or broken.

Laces Omitted or type not a specified (color, shape, weave etc.).

Length not as specified. 143 Soft tips. 144

Insole Any protruding point of tack, staple or nail on insole forward of heel breast or in heel seat area

Shank Missing, misplaced and/or affecting comfort and appearance.

Outsole Edge scouring is irregular, affecting appearance. 147 Any observable malformation in thickness or tread. 216

Welting Overlapped or open space exceeding 1/16-inch between ends of welting, skipped or broken stitch on welting

TABLE VIII. Classification of end item defects – Continued

Major Minor

End item defects – Continued Midsole Visible hole or void on surface of foam. 217

Separation between midsole and outsole. 149 Imbedded foreign matter. 218 Separation between upper and midsole. 150 Visible surface blister. 219

Heel-attaching Heel not finished square or smooth; checked heel, i.e., separation between heel and outsole; wrong size or type heel. If applicable: any heel or nail missing; any heel nail head protruding from heel.

Removable cushion insert

Any cut, tear, curled or rolled material. 220 Improperly sized for shoe. 221

Marking identification

Omitted, incomplete, incorrect, misplaced, and illegible.

Barcode/ label

Barcode omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified.

Barcode not visible on packaged item. 223 Barcode attachment causes damage to the item. 153 Barcode not readable by scanner. 154 Human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible.

Certification label omitted, incorrect, illegible (if applicable per the contract)

5.4 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.2).

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.2).

7. NOTES.

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

7.1 Intended use. The shoes are intended for wear by male and female personnel of the U.S.

Navy, U.S. Air Force, U.S. Coast Guard and U.S. Marine Corps.

7.2 Ordering data. The contract order shall specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description, including any amendments.

b. Size and width, quantity (see 2.1).

c. When first article is required and number of samples.

d. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the

Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program.

e. National Stock Number.

f. Product conformance provisions.

g. Acceptance criteria.

h. Packaging required (see 6.1).

7.3 Sources of non-Government documents.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Sampling Procedures are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(ASTM Standards are available for purchase online at https://www.astm.org.)

SATRA TECHNOLOGY CENTER

SATRA Test Methods

(SATRA Test methods are available for purchase online at https://www.satra.com.)

7.4 Sources of Supply.

7.4.1 Outsoles. Outsoles conforming to the requirements of this document may be obtained from: Vibram USA Inc., 18 School Street, North Brookfield, MA 01535, https://us.vibram.com.

7.4.2 Lasts. Lasts conforming to the requirements of this document may be obtained from:

JONES & VINING MA - Model Room, 124 Turnpike Street, Unit 4, West Bridgewater, MA 02379, https://jonesandvining.com.

7.5 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth etc. go to Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support website for their Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form.

https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx.

Complete the request form and then submit. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military service.

https://asq.org/ http://www.satra.com/

7.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Footwear Oxford

Figure 1, Men’s –Side View

Figure 2, Men’s –Top View

Figure 3, Men’s –Heel, Angled View

Figure 4, Men’s – Outsole Welt Construction View

Figure 5, Women’s – Side View (4 eyelets)

Figure 6, Women’s –Top View (4 eyelets)

Figure 7, Women’s –Heel, Angled View

Figure 8, Women’s – Outsole Welt Construction View

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Navy-NU Navy-NU

DLA-CT