11-PD 20011B CLOTH TEXTURIZED WOVEN POLYESTER-29Mar2023_Final.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD 20011B

29 March 2023

SUPERCEDEING

11-PD 20011A

10 December 2021

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TEXTURIZED, WOVEN, POLYESTER

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNUV, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

111-PD 20011A

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester texturized twill cloth.

1.2 Classification. The cloth shall be furnished in the following types and classes as specified (see 6.3).

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - antimicrobial and wicking finish

Type II - durable water resistance (DWR) finish

1.2.2 Classes.

Class 1 – Air Force Shade Blue 1673 with antimicrobial and wicking finish

Class 2 – Air force Shade Blue 1674 with durable water repellency (DWR) finish

Class 3 – Space Force Shade Black 1681 with antimicrobial and wicking finish

Class 4 – Space Force Shade Black 1682 with durable water repellency (DWR) finish

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this document, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

LAWS AND REGULATIONS

15 U.S.C. 70 Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies may be obtained without charge from https://www.ftc.gov/index/htm.)

https://www.ftc.gov/index/htm

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Technical Manual Test Methods

AATCC TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM15

AATCC TM16.2

Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Light: Carbon Arc

AATCC TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc AATCC TM20 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative (DoD Adopted) AATCC TM20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM22 Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering

AATCC TM100 Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessement of AATCC TM133 Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing AATCC TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home Laundering AATCC TM197 Vertical Wicking of Textiles AATCC TM199 Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer Method

Technical Manual Evaluation Procedures

AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC EP 8

AATCC EP 9

AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale Visual Assessment of Color Difference

(Copies of these technical manuals are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ansi.org and https://www.asq.org.)

https://www.asq.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D737 Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-

Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus ASTM D3107 Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from

Stretch Yarns

ASTM D3512/

D3512M

Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester

ASTM D3775 Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabric

ASTM D3776/

ASTM D3776M

Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3990 Standard Terminology Related to Fabric Defects ASTM D4966 Standard Test Method of Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics

(Martindale Abrasion Tester Method) ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6587 Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Using Automatic Tester

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.

(Copies are available online at https://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and

Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Standard sample. The cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).

3.2 Material.

https://www.astm.org/

3.2.1 Yarn. The yarn shall be 75 micro denier multifilament polyester yarn in warp and fill that have been textured by the false twist or friction twist process in accordance with good commercial practice. The size of each filament per single yarn ply shall be equal or less than 75/72 denier. The yarn shall be round semi dull type, and shall be post plied with from 0 to 3.5 turns per inch.

3.3 Color. The color of the finished cloth in Type I, Class 1 shall be Air Force Shade Blue 1673. The color of the finished cloth in Type II, Class 2 shall be Air Force shade Blue 1674. The color of the finished cloth in Type I, Class 3 shall be Space Force Shade Black 1681. The color of the finished cloth in Type II, Class 4 shall be Space Force Shade Black 1682. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample.

3.3.1 Color matching. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered lamps, which approximate artificial daylight, having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (± 200) K with illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2850 (± 200) K.

3.3.2 Colorfastness. The finished dyed cloth shall show fastness to light, perspiration, laundering, hot pressing, and crocking equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample has been established or designated as applicable to colorfastness, the finished cloth shall show “great” fastness or not lower than 4.0 rating to perspiration, hot pressing, “good” fastness or not lower than 3.5 rating to light, laundering, and shall show a 9-Step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating for crocking not lower than “4.0” when tested as specified in Table II. The temperature for colorfastness to hot pressing shall be at 350º F.

3.4 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in Table II.

TABLE I. Physical properties.

Characteristic Requirements

Nominal Minimum Maximum Material Contents

Polyethylene Terephthalate 100 -- -- Weight (oz. per sq. yd.)

Type I, Class 1 and 3 Type II, Class 2 and 4

3.65 3.20

3.40 2.95

3.90 3.45

TABLE I. Physical properties – Continued.

Characteristic Requirements

Nominal Minimum Maximum Width (in.)

61.5

58.5

63.0

Type II, Class 2 and 4 63.5 61.5 65.0 Ends (per in.)

Picks (per in.)

Yarn (micro denier/filaments) Warp 75/72 -- -- Fill 75/72 -- -- Mechanical Stretch (%)

Warp

Fill Type II, Class 2 and 4 Warp

Tensile strength (lbs)

Filling

Tear strength (lbs)

Filling

3.0 4.0

Dimensional Stability (±%) (after 5 launderings)

Warp -- -3.0 3.0 Fill -- -2.0 2.0 Press Shrinkage (%)

3.5 3.0

Wicking (inches at 15 minutes) (Type I, Class 1 and 3)

Initial

5.0

After 5 launderings Warp

5.0

TABLE I. Physical properties – Continued.

Characteristic Requirements Nominal Minimum Maximum

Drying Time (minutes) (Type I, Class 1 and 3) 40 Antimicrobial (%) (Type I, Class 1 and 3)

After 5 launderings After 25 launderings

-- 90

Durable water repellency (Type II, Class 2 and 4) Initial After 5 launderings After 25 launderings

Pilling (60 minutes run)

4.5 4.5

Martindale Abrasion (10,000 cycles) -- 4.0 -- Colorfastness Crocking (wet and dry) -- 4 -- Light (40 h. or 170 kJ) -- 3.5 -- Laundering (5 launderings) Color change Color staining

Perspiration (acid and alkaline) Hot pressing, dry

Air permeability (cu.ft/min/sq.ft) -- 20 50 pH -- 5.5 8.5

3.4.1 Weave. The weave shall be 2-up-2 down right hand twill.

3.4.2 Usable width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the usable width shall be no less than 58.5 inches for Type I and 61.5 inches for Type II cloth.

3.5 Finish. The Type I, Class 1 or 3 cloth shall have a sandwashed, durable antimicrobial and wicking finish and 4-way stretch. The Type II, Class 2 or 4 cloth shall have a sandwashed, durable water repellent finish and 4-way stretch when tested as specified in Table II. The finished cloth shall show the character of finish and hand displayed by the standard sample.

3.6 Dimensional stability to laundering. The finished cloth shall not shrink or elongate more than 3.0 percent in the warp direction and 2.0 percent in the fill direction after five (5) launderings when tested as specified in Table II.

3.7 pH. The pH of the water-extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in Table II.

3.8 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.9 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous length, each roll not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put up full width in a roll in accordance to industry standard and practices.

3.10 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.10.1 Face identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping the face side with the word “FACE” on each end of the roll.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in 4.3.1.1, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a metallic flag or a string measuring 1 to 1-1/2 inches long. The metallic flag shall be adhered to the selvage or the string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A metallic flag may represent a defect of any point value. A red string shall represent a three (3) - or four (4)-point defect and a white string shall represent a one (1) - or two (2)-point defect.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor may use facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the document when such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

4.1.2 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the requirement characteristics of this purchase description and shall conform to the producer’s own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.1.3 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced standards and publications unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description.

4.2 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests of this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3 Methods of inspection.

4.3.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in ASTM D3990, which are clearly noticeable at an inspection distance of three (3) feet, shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.3.1.1. No linear yard (increments of one (1) yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one (1) roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four (4) points. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (rolls) 1/ 3200 or fewer 8

3201 up to and including 10,000 13 10,001 or more 20

1/ No more than one (1) roll shall be taken from any shipping container unless the number of shipping containers in the lot is less than the required number of rolls, in which case all shipping containers shall be present in the sample.

The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined, exceed 10.0. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards, of two

(2) or more individual rolls, exceed 15.0. If one (1) roll exceeds 15.0 points per 100 square yards, a second sample shall be examined only for individual roll quality. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more rolls in the second sample exceed 15.0 points per 100 square yards. Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Total points scored in sample × 3600 = Points per 100 square yards Contracted width of cloth (inches) x total yards inspected)

4.3.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

Defects in any dimension Points Up to 3 inches 1 Exceeding 3 inches, but not exceeding 6 inches 2 Exceeding 6 inches, but not exceeding 9 inches 3 Exceeding 9 inches 4

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur:

Bowed or bias filling exceeding 2 inch deviation from normal alignment Baggy, ridged or wavy cloth Objectionable odor Width less than specified Uneven weaving Tight selvage Tight warp end

4.4 Basic cloth tests. The testing specified in Table II shall be followed.

TABLE II. Test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Material Contents Polyethylene Terephthalate 3.2.1 AATCC TM20/20A

Weight (oz. per sq. yd.) 3.4 ASTM D3776/D3776M Option C 1/

Color matching 3.3.1 Visual 2/ Width (inches) 3.4.2 Visual 1/ Ends (per inch) 3.4 ASTM D3775 1/ Picks (per inch) 3.4 ASTM D3775 1/ Yarn (denier) Warp 3.2.1 ASTM D6587 1/ Fill 3.2.1 ASTM D6587 1/ Mechanical stretch (%) Warp 3.4 ASTM D3107 3/ Fill 3.4 ASTM D3107 3/ Tensile strength (Ibs) 3.4 ASTM D5034 Tear strength (Ibs) 3.4 ASTM D1424

TABLE II. Test methods – Continued.

Characteristic Requirement

Paragraph Test Method

Dimensional Stability (%) (after 5 launderings)

Warp 3.6 AATCC TM135 (3), (IV), (A)iii Fill 3.6 AATCC TM135 (3), (IV), (A)iii Press Shrinkage (%)

3.4 AATCC TM96 7.3.6 (E) 4/

Fill 3.4 Wicking (initial and after 5 launderings) (inches at 15 minutes.) (Type I, Class 1 and 3) Warp

3.4

AATCC TM197, AATCC

TM135 (3), (IV), (A)iii

Drying time (minutes) (Type I, Class 1 and 3) 3.4 AATCC TM199

Antimicrobial (Initial and after 5, 25 launderings) (Type I, Class 1 and 3) 3.4

AATCC TM100

AATCC TM135 (3), (IV), (A)iii

5/ Durable water repellency (DWR) (Type II, Class 2 and 4) Initial After 5 launderings After 25 launderings

AATCC TM22

AATCC TM135 (3), (IV), (A)iii 5/

Pilling (60 minutes run)

ASTM D3512

AATCC TM135 (3), (IV), (A)iii Martindale abrasion (10,000 cycles) ASTM D4966 6/, 7/ Colorfastness Crocking (wet and dry) 3.3.2 AATCC TM8 8/ Light (40 h. or 170 kJ) 3.3.2 AATCC TM16.2 or 16.3 7/, 9/ Laundering (5 launderings) 3.3.2 AATCC TM61, 2A 7/,10/,11/ Perspiration (acid & alkaline) 3.3.2 AATCC TM15 7/,10/ Hot pressing, dry (350 0F) 3.3.2 AATCC TM133 7/ Air permeability (cu.ft/min/sq.ft) 3.4 ASTM D737 pH 3.4 AATCC TM81

1/ The Contractor shall submit a Certificate of Compliance for these characteristics.

2/ The color and appearance of the cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered lamps simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (±200) K illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (±200) K, in accordance with AATCC EP 9, Option A.

3/ Pre-stress the specimen slowly by cycling three (3) times between 0 and 4 (Ibs) force load with each cycle lasting 5 seconds of which the specimen is under the specified tension above for approximately 3 seconds. The measurement shall be taken on the forth cycle under 4 (Ibs) force load.

4/ Press at 325 0F for 15 seconds.

5/ The test specimens shall be subjected twenty-five washing and drying cycles followed by three (3) continuous washing cycles without detergent followed by one (1) drying cycle before the measurement values are calculated at the beginning of the production contract. Testing shall be performed after five washing and drying cycles followed by one

(1) continuous washing cycle without detergent followed by one (1) drying cycle for every shipment of an order during the production contract. The minimum DWR requirement is 80% after five washing and drying cycles.

6/ Add the required weight to give a pressure on each specimen of 1.31 ± 0.03 psi (9 ± 0.2 kPa). Use Option 1. The end point is reached when there is a change in shade or appearance that is sufficient to cause a customer to complain.

7/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

8/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

9/ The testing of one (1) sample is permitted.

10/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

11/ Include using cotton, nylon, polyester, and acrylic for color staining.

4.4.1 Toxicity testing. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.8) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The polyester texturized twill cloth covered by this purchase description is intended for use in the manufacture of Track Suit for the United States Air Force and Space Force Uniform Program.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of the purchase description.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. Quantity required.

d. Minimum length, if other than specified (see 3.9).

e. Minimum width, if other than specified (see 3.4.2).

f. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.8 and 4.4.1).

g. Packaging requirements (see section 5)

6.3 Standard sample and purchase description. Requests for a shade sample should be addressed to: AFLCMC/WNUV TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433- 7605.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Absorbency AF Optional Purchase Program Breaking strength Cloth Dimensional stability Fiber content Pilling Service coat Weave

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review activities:

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT