Shirt Cloth 5100 87F April 3 2020.pdf

5100-87F

April 3, 2020

Supersedes

5100-87E

February 2011

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

FOREST SERVICE

SPECIFICATION FOR

CLOTH, SHIRTING, ARAMID

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data that may be used in improving this document should be addressed: via electronic mail <wo_mtdc_webmaster@fs.fed.us> or U.S. mail to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, National Technology and Development Program, 5785 Highway 10 West, MT 59808.

Distribution Statement A: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

FSC 8305

mailto:wo_mtdc_webmaster@fs.fed.us ii

CONTENTS

1. 1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope

1.2. Interpretations and Definitions

1.2.1. Interpretation

1.2.2. Definitions

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. Government documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks

2.1.2. Other Government documents, drawings, and publications

2.2. Non-Government publications

2.3. Order of precedence

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. First article

3.1.1. NFPA 1977

3.2. Standard samples

3.3. Cloth

3.3.1. Aramid fiber blend

3.4. Color

3.4.1. Matching

3.4.2. Dyeing and finishing

3.5. Physical requirements

3.5.1. Weave

3.5.2. Width

3.6. Finishing

3.6.1. Nonfibrous material

3.6.2. Curling

3.7. pH value

3.8. Dimensional stability

3.9. Seam efficiency

3.10. Length and put up

3.11. Workmanship

3.12. Metric products

iii

3.13. Recovered materials

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Responsibility for inspection

4.1.1. Responsibility for compliance

4.1.2. Certification of compliance

4.2. Quality conformance inspection

4.2.1. Certification

4.2.2. End item examination

4.3. End item testing

4.3.1. Curling

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Put-up, packaging, and marking

6. NOTES

6.1. Intended use

6.2. Acquisition requirements

6.3. Standard sample

6.4. First article

6.5. Notice

6.6. Suggested Sources

6.7. Preparing activity

1. 1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope.

This specification covers one type of flame resistant aramid twill weave cloth.

1.2. Interpretations and Definitions.

1.2.1. Interpretation.

To carry out the provisions of this document, the word “shall” is understood to be mandatory.

1.2.2. Definitions.

Nonconformity: A departure of a quality characteristic from its intended level or state that occurs with severity sufficient to cause an associated product or service not to meet a specification requirement (per ANSI/ASQ Z1.4).

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. Government documents.

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks.

The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those in effect on the date of the invitation for bids or request for proposals.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-55195 – Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-4 – Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

FED-STD-376 – Preferred Metric Units for General Use by the Federal Government

Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications and standards are available online at https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or in hard copy from the

Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094. Copies of USDA Forest Service specifications are available from the preparing activity, 6.7

2.1.2. Other Government documents, drawings, and publications.

The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those in effect on the date of the invitation for bids or request for proposals.

https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

16 CFR 303 – Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification

Act

Address requests for copies to the Federal Trade Commission, Public Reference Branch, 6th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20580-0001.

2.2. Non-Government publications.

The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those in effect on the date of the invitation for bids or request for proposals.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

Copies are available from the American Society for Quality, PO Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI

53201-3005, www.astm.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 629 – Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles

ASTM D 737 – Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D 1424 – Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-

Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM D 1683 – Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D 3774 – Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric

ASTM D 3775 – Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D 3776 – Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D 5034 – Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D 6413 – Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical

Test)

Copies are available from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, www.astm.org.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 16 – Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method 61 – Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 81 – pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles http://www.astm.org/ http://www.astm.org/

AATCC Test Method 135 – Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

Copies are available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.

Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215, www.aatcc.org.

NATIONAL FIRE PROTECTION ASSOCIATION (NFPA)

1977 – Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting

Address requests for copies to National Fire Protection Association, 1 Batterymarch Park, PO Box 9101, Quincy, MA 02269-9101, www.nfpa.org.)

Non-Government standards and other publications normally are available from the organizations that prepare and distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.

2.3. Order of precedence.

In the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. First article.

Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), sample cloth shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.4) in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.1. NFPA 1977.

The cloth shall meet the requirements of National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)

Standard 1977, Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting.

3.2. Standard samples.

The dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).

3.3. Cloth

3.3.1. Aramid fiber blend.

The blend shall consist of 93 percent meta-aramid fiber, 5 percent para-aramid fiber, and 2 percent conductive fiber. The aramid fibers shall be 1.5 denier per filament and 1-1/2 to 2 inches in staple length, and shall not char at a temperature less than 675 F. The conductive fiber shall be a bi-component carbon core fiber sheathed with nylon and polyethylene and shall be 3 denier per filament and 1-1/2 to 2 inches in staple length.

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.nfpa.org/

3.4. Color.

Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the color of the cloth shall be safety yellow to match the standard sample (see 3.2) when tested as specified in 4.

3.4.1. Matching.

The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of

7500 ±200 degrees Kelvin with illumination of 100 ±20 foot candles and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 ±200 degrees

Kelvin.

3.4.2. Dyeing and finishing.

The dyed and finished fabric shall show good dye penetration of the fiber and colorfastness to light and to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.3. Pigment padding shall not be acceptable.

3.5. Physical requirements.

The physical requirements of the finished cloth shall be as specified in Table 1, when tested as specified in 4.3.

Table 1. Physical requirements

Characteristics Requirement

Weight per square yard (ounces) 5.3 to 5.7

RPP 7.0 minimum

THL (first article only) 550 minimum

Yarns per inch Warp 61 minimum

Yarns per inch Filling 46 minimum

Breaking strength (pounds) Warp 170 minimum

Breaking strength (pounds) Filling (minimum) 115 minimum

Tearing strength (pounds) Warp 7.0 minimum

Tearing strength (pounds) Filling 7.0 minimum

Air permeability (ft.3/min./ft.2) 95 min., 140 max.

Flame resistance

Flame time 2 seconds max

Glow time 8 seconds max

Char length, average 4.0 max

3.5.1. Weave.

The weave shall be a 2x1 right-hand twill weave.

3.5.2. Width.

The width of the finished cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum usable width, such as between pin holes or clip marks.

3.6. Finishing.

The cloth shall be desized, scoured, and heat set (see 3.6.1, 3.6.2, and 3.8). Cloth should have a soft hand.

3.6.1. Nonfibrous material.

The starch and protein content including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material of the cloth shall not exceed 1.0 percent when tested as specified in 4.3.

3.6.2. Curling.

When tested as specified in 4.3.1, the finished cloth shall lie flat, without distortion, and show no evidence of curling.

3.7. pH value.

The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 4.0 nor more than 8.0 when tested as specified in 4.3.

3.8. Dimensional stability.

The cloth shall not shrink more than 5.0 percent in the direction of the warp nor more than

5.0 percent in the direction of the filling after five launderings when tested as specified in

4.3.

3.9. Seam efficiency.

The finished cloth shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 80 percent when tested as specified in 4.3.

3.10. Length and put up.

Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the finished cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put up in full width rolls in accordance with standard industry practice.

3.11. Workmanship.

The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification.

The occurrence of nonconformities shall not exceed the point level specified.

3.12. Metric products.

Products manufactured to metric dimensions will be considered on an equal basis with those manufactured using inch/pound units, provided they fall within the tolerances specified using conversion tables contained in the latest revision of FED-STD-376, and all other requirements of this specification are met.

3.13. Recovered materials.

The contractor is encouraged to use recovered material in accordance with Federal

Acquisition Regulation 23.4 to the maximum extent practical.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Responsibility for inspection.

Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his/her own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in this specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1. Responsibility for compliance.

All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor's overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the

Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known nonconforming material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to accept nonconforming material.

4.1.2. Certification of compliance.

When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification (see 4.2.1).

4.2. Quality conformance inspection.

Each end item lot shall be sampled and inspected as specified in 4.2.2. Each lot shall be sampled and test as specified in 4.3. Test reports showing compliance with 4.3 shall be submitted as part of quality conformance inspections. When conducting quality conformance inspections of first articles the presence of any nonconformity or failure of any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.2.1. Certification.

As part of first article presentations and lot inspections, certificates of compliance shall be submitted to verify the characteristics of the aramid cloth, including the blend, denier, non-charring properties, and conductive fiber (see 3.3.1).

4.2.2. End item examination.

The examination of the end item shall be in accordance with the provisions of 4.2.2.1 through 4.2.2.3.

4.2.2.1. Yard-by-yard examination.

Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size Sample Size (rolls) (see 4.3.2.1.1)

3,200 or less 8

3,201 to 10,000 13

Over 10,000 20

All nonconformities as defined in section III of FED-STD-4 that are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in

4.2.2.1.1 except as follows:

a. Only coarse yarns that exceed twice the normal yarn diameter shall be scored.

b. wrong twist in the yarn, or off shade yarn.

No linear yard (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be 20 rolls selected from 20 containers. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per

100 square yards of the total yardage examined exceed 50 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceed 75 points. If one roll exceeds 75 points per 100 square yards, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for individual roll quality. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more rolls in the second samples exceeds 75 points per 100 square yards. Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

4.2.2.1.1. Demerit points.

Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

For nonconformities 3 inches or less in any dimension 1 point

For nonconformities exceeding 3 inches, but not exceeding 6 inches in any dimension 2 points

For nonconformities exceeding 6 inches, but not exceeding 9 inches in any dimension 3 points

For nonconformities exceeding 9 inches in any dimension 4 points

The following nonconformities, when present, shall be scored 4 points for each yard in which they occur:

Objectionable odor.

Baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth. Uneven weaving.

Edge ravels when pulled outwards.

Slack or tight selvages.

To determine the presence of unacceptable selvage conditions, the following procedure shall be observed: During the visual examination, the perch shall be stopped a minimum of three times for each roll in the sample, the tension removed, and the finished cloth examined for the selvage conditions. A waviness or ripples within the body of the cloth is an indicator of slack or tight selvage.

4.2.2.2. Length examination

4.2.2.2.1. Individual rolls.

During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length.

Any length found to be less than the minimum specified or more than 2 yards less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a nonconformity with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are nonconforming with respect to length.

4.2.2.2.2. Total yardage in sample.

The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the roll tickets. The rolls examined shall be those selected for the examination of individual rolls.

4.2.2.3. Shade examination.

During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade on the face side. When two or more rolls in the sample are off shade, shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end, it shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.3. End item testing.

The methods of testing as listed in table 2 shall be followed. The physical and chemical values specified in section 3, except where otherwise specified, apply to the results of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test method. The sample unit shall be 5 continuous yards, full width, of the dyed and finished cloth. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 yard. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units fail to meet any of the requirements specified. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be as follows:

Lot size (yards) Sample size

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3

Over 22,000 5

Table 2 End item testing

Characteristic Specification requirement

Reference Test Method

Material identification

Blend 3.3.1 (1)

Denier 3.3.1 (1)

Staple length 3.3.1 Visual (1)

Non-Charring 3.3.1 (1)

Conductive fiber 3.3.1 (1)

Colorfastness to:

Light 3.4.2 AATCC 16.3

Laundering 3.4.2 AATCC 61 3A

Weight 3.5 ASTM D 3776C

Yarns per inch:

Warp 3.5 ASTM D 3775

Filling 3.5 ASTM D 3775

Breaking strength:

Warp 3.5 ASTM D 5034

Filling 3.5 ASTM D 5034

Tearing strength:

Warp 3.5 ASTM D 1424

Filling 3.5 ASTM D 1424

Air permeability 3.5 ASTM D 737

Flame resistance 3.5 ASTM D 6413

Weave 3.5.1 Visual (2)

Nonfibrous material 3.6.1. ASTM D 629

Curling 3.6.2 4.4.1 pH 3.7 AATCC 81

Dimensional stability after five launderings

3.8 AATCC 135-2004

Seam efficiency 3.9 ASTM D1683

(1) Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance from the cloth manufacturer shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements (see 4.2.1).

(2) One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the results reported as "pass" or "fail."

4.3.1. Curling.

Two specimens of cloth shall be cut 1-1/2 inches by 6 inches. One specimen shall be cut with the 6-inch dimension in the warp direction and the second specimen shall be cut with the 6-inch dimension in the filling direction. Both specimens shall be placed on a dry flat surface, at normal room temperature, for a minimum of 5 minutes and shall show no evidence of curling. Any evidence of curling shall constitute a nonconformity.

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Put-up, packaging, and marking.

Put-up, packaging and marking shall be as specified by 3.10, 3.11, and 3.12, and in accordance with standard industry practice.

6. NOTES

6.1. Intended use.

The cloth is intended for use in manufacturing protective shirts worn by men and women engaged in wildland fire suppression work and controlled burn operations.

6.2. Acquisition requirements.

Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. When first article is not required (see 3.1, 4.2, and 6.4).

c. Color of cloth required if other than specified (see 3.4).

d. Width of cloth required (see 3.5.2).

e. Length required if other than specified (see 3.10).

f. Arrangements for inspection and tests (see section 4).

g. Selection of applicable levels of packaging and packing (see 5.1).

6.3. Standard sample.

Standard samples may be obtained from the preparing activity (see 6.7).

6.4. First article.

When a first articles are required, it shall be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209. The first article shall be a preproduction sample consisting of 5 continuous yards of the finished cloth. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first articles.

6.5. Notice.

When Government drawings, specification, or other data are used for any purpose other than in connection with a definitely related Government procurement operation, the United

States Government thereby incurs no responsibility nor any obligation whatsoever.

6.6. Suggested Sources.

The suggested sources for the cloth are:

Milliken & Company

Spartanburg, SC 29304

Phone: 864.503.2020

Tencate - Southern Mills Inc.

Union City, GA 30291

Phone: 770-969-1000

6.7. Preparing activity.

USDA Forest Service, National Technology and Development Program – Missoula, 5785

Highway 10 West, Missoula, MT 59808. Phone: 406-329-3900.