TD NWU Maternity 032323.pdf

TECHNICAL DATA

NWU TYPE II & III

23 March 2023

Blouse, Maternity, Working, U.S. Navy, Desert & Woodland, Type I, Class 2 & 3 shall be made in accordance with NCTRF PD 09-10E, dated 27 July 2012.

Slacks, Maternity, Working, U.S. Navy, Desert & Woodland, Type II, Class 2 & 3 shall be made in accordance with NCTRF PD 09-10E, dated 27 July 2012.

PATTERN DATE: 15 DECEMBER 2022

Standard sample for Cloth, Ripstop, Nylon and Cotton Blend, Desert Camouflage Pattern, Type II, conforming to Type II of NCTRF PD 05-11 is available on roll number 19116 is applicable for shade only.

Standard sample for Cloth, Ripstop, Nylon and Cotton Blend, Woodland Camouflage Pattern conforming to Type III of NCTRF PD 05-11 is available on roll number 18002 is applicable for shade and nIR only.

Inspection shall be as follows:

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Acceptable Quality Limits

Visual

Major - Level II, 2.5

Minor - Level II, 10.0

Dimensional - S-2, 4.00

Palletization - S-1, 6.5

Prep - S-2, 2.5

Interim changes to NCTRF PD 09-10E dated 27 July 2012:

Para 1.2 “Schedule of blouse sizes.” and “Schedule of slacks sizes”:

Delete and substitute:

Schedule of blouse and slacks sizes.

SHORT REGULAR LONG

XX-Small XX-Small XX-Small

X-Small X-Small X-Small

Small Small Small

Medium Medium Medium

Large Large Large

X-Large X-Large X-Large

XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large

XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large

At bottom of page add: “DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release.”.

PAGES 2 through 33

At top of page in Header: Delete “NCTRF PD 09-10D” and substitute “NCTRF PD 09-10E”.

Para 2.2.1 Delete the following entries in their entirety:

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS, V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic):

FEDERAL STANDARDS, FED-STD-4, FED-STD-595/27041, FED-STD-595/20180 and FED-STD-

595/34094”.

Under COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS: Add:

“A-A-59994 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)”.

Under “FEDERAL STANDARDS” line 2, 3 & 4, Delete “FED-STD-595”

Replace with “SAE-AMS-STD-595”

Para 2.2.1 At top of page: Delete “(Copies of these documents are available le online at…PA 19111-

5094.)” and substitute “(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)”.

Para 2.2.2 Lines 10 and 11: Delete “Kansas Street” and substitute “10 General Green Avenue”.

Para 2.3 Lines 6 to 8, Delete and substitute “(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org).”.

Lines 12 and 13: Delete and substitute “(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.aatcc.org).

Under “ASTM INTERNATIONAL” Add:

“ASTM D3990 Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects”.

Delete in its entirety: “OTHER PUBLICATIONS….or online at http://taylorandfrancis.co.uk)”.

ADD new entry:

SAE INTERNATIONAL

AMS-STD-595 - Colors Used in Government Procurement

(Copies of the color chips are available online at https://www.sae.org.)”.

3.3.1.7 Chest pocket flaps.

Line 7, delete “1/8” and substitute “1/4”

3.3.2.4 Pocket flaps.

Line 7, delete “1/8” and substitute “1/4”

PARAGRAPH 3.5.1, Line 3

Add at end of Paragraph, "Seconds shall be basic material which has been rejected only for defects pertaining to printing, infrared reflectance or shade as specified in NCTRF PD 05-11 and PM-SOF-SSES

SPEC 07-11, as applicable. (see 3.7.1).".

PARAGRAPH, 3.5.3, Line 2

After, "class" add "1 or".

Paragraph 3.5.4 Colors. Delete “FED-STD-595”

Para 3.5.5 Delete and substitute:

“3.5.5 Buttons. All buttons shall conform to Type I, Class 1, Style 26 (30 ligne) of A-A-59994 with dull finish, 4-hole (see 6.4.2).”

PARAGRAPH, 3.5.6.3, Line 2

Delete, "Tex size 180-210" and substitute "Tex size 210".

Para 3.6.1.2 Delete and substitute:

TABLE IV – Maternity blouse size and body measurements (inches)

Size Body measurements

Chest XX-Small Up to 33-1/2

X-Small 33-1/2 to 34-1/2

Small 34-1/2 to 36

Medium 36 to 37-1/2

Large 37-1/2 to 39

X-Large 39 to 41

XX-Large 41 to 43

XXX-Large 43 to 45

Height Short Up to 63

Regular 63 to 67

Long Above 67

Para 3.6.2.1 Delete and substitute:

TABLE VI – Maternity slacks size and body measurements (inches)

Size Body measurements

Waist XX-Small Up to 25-1/2

X-Small 25-1/2 to 26-1/2

Small 26-1/2 to 28

Medium 28 to 29-1/2

Large 29-1/2 to 31

X-Large 31 to 33

XX-Large 33 to 35

XXX-Large 35 to 37

Inseam Short Up to 29-1/2

Regular 29-1/2 to 32-1/2

Long Above 32-1/2

Paragraph 3.7.1 Slacks pattern parts.

Delete and replace with the following:

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic Material

(3.5.1)

Right hip pocket

PD0910S-RGT_HIP_PCKT * 1

Table VI. Blouse seaming.

Delete and replace with the following:

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch

Type

Attachment of hook and loop fastener tape and chest pockets

LSd-3 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge 301

Table VII. Slacks Seaming.

Delete and replace with:

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch

Type

Attachment of hip pocket bearer LSd-1 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch from folded edge

301 or

Para 3.9.1 Delete and substitute:

TABLE X – Maternity Blouse Finished Dimensions (inches)

Size ½ Bust

(all lengths)

(A)

½ Sweep

(all lengths)

(B)

Cross back

(all lengths)

(C)

Collar width

(D)

Back length

(E)

Sleeve length

(F)

XX-Small

Short

Regular

Long

20-1/ 2

15-1/4

27-1/4

28-3/4

30-1/4

X-Small

29-1/2

15-5/8

27-1/2

30-1/2

22-1/4

23-1/4

24-1/4

Small

21-3/4

30-1/4

27-3/4

29-1/4

30-3/4

22-1/2

23-1/2

24-1/2

Short 28 22-3/4

Medium Regular

22-1/2 31 16-3/8 3 29-1/2

23-3/4

24-3/4

Large

23-1/4

31-3/4

16-3/4

28-1/4

29-3/4

31-3/4

X-Large

32-3/4

17-1/8

28-1/2

31-1/2

23-1/4

25-1/4

XX-large

25-1/4

33-3/4

17-1/2

28-3/4

30-1/4

31-3/4

23-1/2

25-1/2

XXX-large

26-1/4

34-3/4

17-7/8

30-1/2

23-3/4

24-3/4

25-3/4

Tolerances ±3/4 ±3/4 ±3/4 ±1/8 ±3/4 ±1/2

Para 3.9.2 Delete and substitute:

TABLE XII – Maternity slacks finished dimensions

Size ½ Waist

(A)

½ Hip

(B)

Inseam

(C)

Outseam

(D)

XX-Small

13-1/4

20-3/4

32-1/2

42-5/8

44-5/8

46-5/8

X-Small

13-3/4

21-1/4

32-1/2

42-3/4

44-3/4

46-3/4

Small

14-1/2

32-1/2

42-7/8

44-7/8

46-7/8

Medium

15-1/4

22-3/4

32-1/2

Large

23-1/2

32-1/2

43-1/8

45-1/8

47-1/8

X-Large

32-1/2

43-1/4

45-1/4

47-1/4

XX-large

25-1/2

32-1/2

43-3/8

45-3/8

47-3/8

XXX-large

26-1/0

32-1/2

43-1/2

45-1/2

Long 34 47-1/2

Tolerances +3/4, 0 ±3/4 ±3/4 ±3/4

Para 3.11 Lines 1 to 3: Delete in its entirety.

Table XIV. Blouse visual defects.

Appearance, Minor 214

Delete, " Delete, "flap width extends past finished pocket edge by more than 1/8 inch on either side." and substitute, "flap width extends past finished pocket edge by more than 1/4 inch on either side."

Para 4.3.4 Table XIV, Footnote 2/: Delete “Fabric defects shall be defined in FED-STD-4, Glossary of

Fabric Imperfections.” and substitute “Fabric defects shall be defined in ASTM D3990.”.

Para 4.3.4 Table XV, Footnote 2/: Delete “Fabric defects shall be defined in FED-STD-4 Glossary of

Fabric Imperfections.” and substitute “Fabric defects shall be defined in ASTM D3990.”.

Para 6.2 Line 11, Delete “i. When toxicity testing is required”.

PARAGRAPH, 6.4.3, Line 5

Delete, "Dark Green 627" and substitute "Camouflage Green 683".

PARAGRAPH, 6.5, Line 5

Delete, "Camo Green 483" and substitute "Camouflage Green 383/483".

Paragraph 6.5 Colors. Delete “FED-STD-595”

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR NCTRF PD 01-09 & 02-09:

(1) For Navy Exchange Service Command trousers/slacks inventory an Adhesive Size strip shall be applied per current DLA contracts.

(2a) Shade and size marking. The component parts of the garment shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

(2b) Garment lot designation or garment manufacturing traceability, each coat/blouse and each trousers/slacks shall have a lot designation. The lot number shall be placed on the combination identification/care label of the coat/blouse and trouser/slacks garments. Batch designation shall not be acceptable."

(3) Disposal. The digital printed fabric is trademarked. Disposal procedures for the coat/blouse and trousers/slacks are cited under NCTRF PD 05-11.

(4) Each trousers/slacks shall have a 6 to 8 inches long sizing strip on left leg. The top of sizing strip shall align with top of the left (as worn) cargo pocket flap and shall align with the outseam edge of the left cargo pocket. The sizing strip shall contain the trousers/slacks size. Each trouser/slacks shall have a Joker

Tag in commonly used business size. Joker tags to be 2-way tac installed on the waistband centered between the first and the second belt loop on the right side of the front opening as worn. Joker tags shall contain trousers/slacks size, and UPC symbol in 14 point bold font size. The bend of the Joker tag is approximately 1/4 inch wide and shall contain the trousers/slacks size in 14 point bold font size. See attached Figure for placement.

(5) Each coat/blouse shall have a 6 to 8 inches long sizing strip. The top of adhesive strip shall align with top of the left (as worn) pocket flap and shall align with the center front edge of left pocket. The sizing strip shall contain the coat/blouse size. See attached Figure for placement.

(6) Only one hang tag with UPC/Size & Barcode is required. If RFID is required, a separate barcode tag will not be required. The RFID hang tag shall include UPC/Size and barcode. The hang tag shall be attached as follows:

(a) Coat/Blouse: located at intersecting armhole and side seam

(b) Trouser/Slacks: located at outseam 2” below belt loop

(7) All production samples being sent to DLA Troop Support shall be randomly pulled by the QAR and accompanied by a DD1222. This is for any samples requested by DLA or samples being sent by the

Prime.

(8) First lot inspection is required. The contractor is required to contact the Contracting Officer in writing ten (10) days before the first lot is ready for presentation for inspection at the manufacturing facility for each item ordered and each place of performance on the contract. If DLA Troop Support intends to witness inspection, a representative from DLA will notify the contractor. In absence of notification, inspection should proceed as scheduled.

First lot inspection is required for each item (i.e. every NWU coat/blouse type and every NWU trousers/slacks type) ordered. The lot must be inspected to ensure quality standards are met prior to submission to the Government QAR for inspection. DLA Troop Support requires that the QAR at the manufacturing facility send five (5) samples of each item (for each manufacturing location) to DLA

Troop Support for independent review. DLA Troop Support's review of the five samples will not interfere with the QAR's inspection. If any defect(s) is/are found during inspection, the garment(s) will be corrected/replaced prior to resubmission for approval by the Government.

In addition to the first lot inspection DLA Troop Support requires the submission of pre-production samples for evaluation. Production cannot commence until pre-production samples have been evaluated and approval has been granted by the Contracting Officer. Samples are required as follows:

Blouse, Working, Maternity (Woodland); 2 ea size Medium-Regular

Slacks, Working, Maternity (Woodland); 2 pr size Medium-Regular

(9) Information for Special Measurements:

Special Measurement Labels

The coat/blouse or trousers/slacks shall contain permanent labels as specified in the specification. All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

Combination personal identification and information label shall be made in accordance with the specification.

The size label shall be sized and placed in accordance with the specification. The label shall be written in indelible ink. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the coat/blouse or trouser/slacks. The size label shall contain the name of the recipient, located in box 1a on DD-358 or on the EMALL spreadsheet, followed by the size of the special measurement.

See figure attached.

Note: If you receive both a DD-358 and an EMALL spreadsheet, the name should appear the same.

Special Measurement Figure:

(10) For garments manufactured by a subcontractor, the Identification and Care label “Contractor Name” section shall read: "Manufactured by (subcontractor name) for (prime contractor name)".

(11) References:

a. Clothing & Textiles Website:

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles.aspx.

b. Portal Address can be used to request specifications, patterns and drawings.

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

c. The ASSIST website can be used to access military specifications and commercial item descriptions. http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

d. The DLA Product Test Center Website can be used to access the shade criticality list along with available instrumental standards and tolerances.

htpp://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ProductTestCenter/ShadeEvaluation.aspx

e. Berry Compliance:

http://farsite.hill.af.mil/archive/dfars/dpn20110725/Dfars252_220.htm#P983_63643

f. ANSI/ASQC Z 1.4 – copies can be obtained from American Society for Quality

Control, 611 East Wisconsin Ave, Milwaukee WI 53202

g. FAR 52.246-2 – Federal Acquisition Regulations, Part 52 Solicitation Provisions &

Contract Clauses. FAR clauses can be accessed at https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/101126

h. ISO/ISE 17025 – International Organization for Standardization/International

Electrotechnical Commission (ISO/IEC), General requirements for the competence of testing and calibration laboratories may be found at https://www.iso.org.

INTERIM CHANGES TO REFERENCE DOCUMENTS

Interim Changes to NCTRF PD 05-11, CLOTHS, RIPSTOP, NYLON AND COTTON BLEND, CAMOUFLAGE:

Paragraph 2.2, Line 5, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”.

Paragraph 2.3, Line 17, after “PA” insert “19106”

Paragraph 2.3, Under “AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS”, Insert “AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles”.

Paragraph 3.3, Line 2, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.4.1, Line 2, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.4.2.1, Line 3, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.4.2.2, Line 3, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.4.3, Line 2, at end of sentence, insert: “except the testing for the visual shade examination shall be in accordance with 4.2.2.1”

Paragraph 3.4.4, Line 2, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.5, Line 3, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.6, Line 2, delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 3.7, Table I, Line 21, Characteristic column delete “(min)” and substitute “(max)”

Paragraph 3.8, Line 3, Delete “SSEC” and substitute “SSES”

Paragraph 4.2.2, Add new Paragraph:

“4.2.2.1 Visual shade examination. Each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade match and finish. The finished cloth shall be viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant having a correlated color temperature of 7500o (± 200o) Kelvin, with illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles and under incandescent A lamplight at 2856o (± 200o) Kelvin to determine if it is a good match to the standard sample. A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade match and finish. The sample unit shall be a 18 inch x full width swatch of cloth. A sample unit shall be drawn from each roll in the lot. The results shall be reported as pass or fail.

Paragraph 4.2.2, Table II, Line 7, row 6, under “Test Method” column, after “AATCC 135” insert

“(3)VAiii”.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR PD 05-11, CLOTHS, RIPSTOP, NYLON AND COTTON

BLEND, CAMOUFLAGE:

1. Random sampling is required for shade and NIR evaluations as per 4.2.1 of NCTRF PD 05-11 unless otherwise specified in the procurement document

2. Contractors shall submit two swatches a minimum of 18 inch x full width; one swatch for shade and one swatch for NIR testing; set “A” and set “B” as described in the “procedures are for shade evaluation of the NWU Type II & III”

3. Shade and NIR testing shall be done concurrently to prevent delays in shipping

4. NIR testing shall be done on ALL swatches regardless if shade evaluation fails

5. The shade/NIR requirements are applicable to current and future procurements

Interim changes to DLA Troop Support C&T AQAR:

DLA Troop Support C&T AQAR dated October 2018 is hereby replaced with DLA Troop Support C&T

AQAR Revision 1 dated August 2021.

Interim changes to A-A-50199:

PARAGRAPH 3.11 Delete and Substitute

3.11 Toxicity. The finished thread shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.1. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

PARAGRAPH 7.5 Delete and Substitute

7.5 Ordering data.

a. CID document number, title and revision date.

b. Type, size and ply of thread required. (see Table I)

c. Colorfastness properties required (3.1)

d. Color required. (see 3.2)

e. Put-up required. (3.7)

f. WHEN TOXICITY TESTING IS REQUIRED (SEE 3.11)

g. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS (SEE 5.1)

h. PACKAGING REQUIREMENTS (SEE 6.1)

PARAGRAPH 7.4 Delete and Substitute

7.4 STANDARD SAMPLES AND PATTERN DRAWINGS, ADDRESS THE CONTRACTING

ACTIVITY ISSUING FOR BIDS OR REQUEST FOR PROPOSAL.

PARAGRAPH 7.3 Delete and Substitute

7.3 REPEAT INSULT PATCH TEST - MODIFIED DRAIZE PROCEDURE - PRINCIPLES AND

METHODS OF TOXICOLOGY, (FOURTH EDITION) A WALLACE HAYES (EDITOR), PP 1057-

1060,200 1.

(COPIES ARE AVAILABLE ONLINE AT HTTP://WWW.TAYLORANDFRANCIS.CO.UKL OR

FROM TAYLOR AND FRANCIS, 325 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA PA 19106.)

TABLE II. Delete and Substitute

TABLE II.

Physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement Test method

Tex (Ticket) Size See Table I ASTM D 3823

Ply See Table I Visual

Length/lb See Table I ASTM D 19071/

Breaking Strength See Table I ASTM D 2042/

Elongation See Table I ASTM D 2042/

Direction of Final Twist See 3.0 ASTM D 204

Colorfastness:

Laundering (after 3 cycles) 3-4 min. AATCC 61 Test 3A 3/,4/

Dry heat @ 376° ± 6° F 3-4 min. AATCC 1173/

Light (after 40 hrs or 170 kJ) 3-4 min. AATCC 16 Option 1or 3 3/

Wet dry-cleaning (when specified) 3-4 min. AATCC 1325/3/

Perspiration (when specified) 3-4 min. AATCC 153/5/

Weathering (after 80 hrs) (when specified) 3-4 min. AATCC 1693/

Fiber Content Fiber Identification ASTM D 276 or AATCC 20

Non- Wicking Finish (when specified) See 3.7 See 3.7.1

1/ In case of dispute, the length per pound of thread may be determined on the thread after removal of finish.

2/ Five determinations shall be made on the sample unit.

3/ AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change (see 3.7, 3.7.1)

4/ The color transfer cloth evaluation shall not apply. No appreciable change in shade or loss of color of the tested specimen shall be visible when compared to the untested thread.

5/ AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

PARAGRAPH 4.1 Delete and Substitute

4.1 Toxicity test. When required (see 7.5), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the heat is not a sensitizer or irritant, a repeat insult patch test shall be performed in accordance with the modified draize procedure. (see 7.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.11) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 7.5)

Interim changes to MIL-C-44296:

PAGE 1, PARAGRAPH 1.1, SCOPE., LINE 1: AFTER "AND" INSERT "STITCH-REINFORCED

NONWOVEN".

PAGE 1, PARAGRAPH 1.2. CLASSIFICATION. BELOW "TYPE IX" ADD "TYPE X - CIRCULAR

KNIT SUBSTRATE"

PAGE 1, PARAGRAPH 1.2, LINE 12: BETWEEN "TYPE X-CIRCULAR KNIT SUBSTRATE" AND

"CLASS 1" INSERT "TYPE X1- "STITCH-REINFORCED NONWOVEN".

PAGE 2, PARAGRAPH 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS ADD FOLLOWING NEW PARAGRAPH:

"2.1.3 OTHER PUBLICATIONS. THE FOLLOWING DOCUMENTS FORM A PART OF THIS

DOCUMENT TO THE EXTENT SPECIFIED HEREIN. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, THE

ISSUES OF THE DOCUMENTS WHICH ARE DOD ADOPTED SHALL BE THOSE LISTED IN THE

ISSUE OF THE DODISS SPECIFIED IN THE SOLICITATION. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED,

THE ISSUES OF THE DOCUMENTS NOT LISTED IN THE DODISS SHALL BE THE ISSUES OF

THE NONGOVERNMENT DOCUMENTS WHICH ARE CURRENT ON THE DATE OF THE

SOLICITATION.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC 20 -

FIBER ANALYSIS QUALITATIVE (APPLICATIONS FOR COPIES SHOULD BE ADDRESSED TO

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC), P.O. BOX

12215, TRIANGLE PARK, NC 27709-2215)"

PAGE 3, ADD THE FOLLOWING NEW PARAGRAPH: "3.1.2.10 TYPE X. TYPE X SHALL BE A

CIRCULAR KNIT. WHEN SPECIFIED (SEE 6.2), THE FACE SIDE SHALL BE NAPPED."

PAGE 3: AFTER PARAGRAPH 3.1.2.10, ADD THE FOLLOWING: "3.1.2.11 TYPE X1. TYPE X1

SHALL BE STITCH- REINFORCED NONWOVEN WHEREBY A SERIES OF CHAINSTITCHING

IS SEWN IN THE MACHINE DIRECTION OF THE SUBSTRATE IN ORDER TO REINFORCE THE

NONWOVEN CONSTRUCTION."

PAGE 7, PARAGRAPH 3.4. PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS. ADD THE FOLLOWING NEW TABLE

(TABLE VIIA) AFTER TABLE VII:

"TABLE VII. A PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR TYPE X

STYLE CLASS WEIGHT (INCLUDING BURSTING FIBER CONTENT

ADHESIVE) STRENGTH

OZ/SQ/YD. LBS. (MIN)

MINIMUM MAXIMUM

A 1,2,3 or 4 1.4 1.8 60 1/

1/ 100% NYLON OR POLYESTER."

PAGE 7, PARAGRAPH 3.4 PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS.: AFTER TABLE"VIII" ADD NEW

TABLE IX:

"TABLE IX, PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR TYPE XI

BREAKING STRENGTH

WGT, OZ/YD2 LBS, (MIN) STITCHING

STYLE CLASS MIN MAX MACH X-MACH CONTENT

REINFORCEMENT

A 1,2,3 1.0 1.8 10.0 1.0 1/ 2/

1/ 50 TO 100 PERCENT POLYESTER WITH REMAINING PERCENTAGE NYLON OR RAYON.

2/ STITCH REINFORCEMENT CONDUCTED WITH SINGLE MULTIFILAMENT THREAD USING

CHAINSTITCH STITCH TYPE WITH CHAINSTITCH LOOPS ON FUSIBLE SIDE TO PROTECT

FROM UNRAVELING."

PAGE 7, PARAGRAPH 3.4.1. BONDING STRENGTH.

- LINE 2, DELETE "(EXCEPT CLASS 5)" AND SUBSTITUTE "(EXCEPT TYPE IX WHEN USED

AS FUSIBLE SEAM TAPE AND CLASS 5)".

- LINES 7 AND 8, DELETE "OR SHEETING MATERIAL".

PAGE 9, PARA. 4.2.2.1, LINE 22, DELETE "30" AND SUBSTITUTE "20". LINE 24, DELETE "45"

AND SUBSTITUTE "30".

PAGE 11, TABLE VIII. END ITEM TESTS UNDER TEST METHOD COLUMN, LINES 2 AND 3

DELETE "1600" AND SUBSTITUTE "AATCC 20".

PAGE 12, PARAGRAPH 4.3.1.1. BONDING STRENGTH PROCEDURE (INITIAL AND AFTER

LAUNDERING/DRY CLEANING). DELETE THE FIRST AND SECOND SENTENCES IN THEIR

ENTIRETY AND SUBSTITUTE: "CUT A 12 INCH WARP BY 11 INCH FILLING SAMPLE FROM

BOTH THE OUTERSHELL AND FUSIBLE MATERIALS SPECIFIED FOR CONTRACT USE (SEE

6.5)."

PAGE 15: AT THE END OF PARAGRAPH 6.1.1, ADD THE FOLLOWING:

" E. STITCH REINFORCED NONWOVEN TYPE X1 OFFERS HIGH DEGREE

STRENGTH/STABILIZATION FOR TAPE AND STAY APPLICATION FOR LARGE OR SMALL

PART FUSIBLES AND IS INTENDED TO PROVIDE VERTICAL STABILITY AND ABRASION

RESISTANCE."

PAGE 16, PARAGRAPH 6.5. BONDING STRENGTH DISPUTE PROCEDURE. INSERT THE

FOLLOWING BETWEEN THE FIRST AND SECOND SENTENCES: "IN SOME CASES,

OUTERSHELL SAMPLES REPRESENTATIVE OF SEPARATE PRODUCTION LOTS MAY BE

USED TO DETERMINE IF DIFFERENT FINISHES MAY AFFECT BONDING STRENGTH."

Interim changes to A-A-55126:

After 2.4: Add:

“2.5 Treatments. The hook and loop fastener tapes will be available in the following treatments.

Treatment A - Without special treatment

Treatment B – Polymeric or elastomeric

Treatment C – Pressure sensitive adhesive (see 3.9.2)

Treatment D – Silver impregnated (see 3.9.3)”.

3.5, Line 2, after “(see 7.4 and 7.7)”: Delete the rest of the paragraph “and it shall be...or White.”.

3.9: Delete and substitute:

“3.9 Finish. Unless otherwise specified all fastener tapes shall conform to Treatment A (without special treatment).”.

3.9.1, Line 4, After “undercoating” insert “Treatment B”.

3.9.2, Line 2: After “application,” insert “Treatment C,”.

After 3.9.2: Add:

“3.9.3 Silver impregnated. When Treatment D, silver impregnation, is specified per the contract, or end-item application, the fastener tapes shall be treated with silver. As a minimal test the hook and loop fastener tape shall have an electrical resistance of equal to or less than 2 Ohms per square inch. Measure the fastener tape resistance with an Ohm meter every 2 yards in the machine direction on both the front and back of each tape strip. Report the electrical resistance for each roll reporting the maximum recorded value in order to ensure that the entire roll is equal to or less than the electrical resistance of 2 Ohms per square inch.”.

7.7.b: Delete and substitute: “Type, class, style, width and treatment required (see 2).”.

GOVERNMENT LABORATORY TESTING OF CLOTH AND END ITEMS

Refer to TS CT AQAR for the following guidance:

A. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

1. Production Testing

a. Identification of Testing Sites

b. Certification of Testing Sites

1. Approval

2. Disapproval

2. Toxicity Requirement

B. INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS

1. Lot Formation

a. Fabric Lot

b. Component Lot

c. Manufactured End Item Lot

1. Treated End Item Lot

2. Combined Manufactured Lots in Treated Lot

3. Multiple Treated Lots from a Manufactured Lot

d. Lot Numbering

1. Serialization

2. Traceability

e. Lot Integrity

f. Presentation of Lots

1. Quality Assurance

2. Side-by-Side Sampling

3. ANSI ACQ Z 1.4 (Switching Rules)

C. QUALITY TESTING REQUIREMENTS

1. Certified Test Reports

a. Completion of DD Form 1222

1. Multiple Contractors

b. Test Report Data

c. Certificate of Compliance (CoC) Submission

2. Government Acceptance Testing

a. Shade Evaluation (see “SHADE TESTING PROCEDURES” below)

b. Production Lot Testing

c. Verification Testing

3. Government Contractor Testing

a. Notification

b. Contractor Furnished Material (CFM)

c. Defective Government Furnished Material

d. Correlation Testing

4. Non-Conforming Material

a. Waiver Process

1. Resubmitted Lots

2. Tightened Inspection

b. Corrective Action Plan CAP Process

NOTE: AQAR Section 3.2 Government Acceptance Testing states that “Unless otherwise stated in the contract, testing performed at the DLA PTC for acceptance purposes will be completed in forty-five (45) calendar days”

SHADE AND SPECTRAL REFLECTANCE TESTING PROCEDURE

The following procedures are for shade & spectral reflectance testing of the NWU Type II & III, NCTRF PD 05-11 cloth to determine acceptability of submitted samples to establish reliability for process performance.

I. SHADE TESTING

a. 100% SWATCHING: From each piece in the lot, the contractor shall cut these swatches into four sets as follows: set "A"; minimum 18 inch x full width, set "B"; minimum 18 inches x full width, set "C"; 6 inches x full width, set “D”; 6 inches x full width. The contractor shall identify each swatch with the piece from which it was cut. Two sets of swatches, set "A" and “B”, and a tally list of piece numbers for each roll of the lot shall be forwarded to DLA Product Testing Center – Analytical for shade and spectral reflectance (nIR) testing. Set "C" swatches shall be retained at the plant for use by the

Quality Assurance Representative (QAR).

b. The swatches, set “A” and “B”, shall be identified and submitted to DLA Product Testing

Center - Analytical for shade evaluation and nIR testing respectively. Please note set

“B” is only required where nIR testing is required. Resubmitted lots shall again be subjected to the sampling and shade/nIR testing prescribed herein. This requirement does not negate the contractor's responsibility to perform shade evaluation prior to submittal of a lot to the Government.

c. When Section 3 of the fabric specification contains a specific requirement for uniformity of shade and when the standard sample is referenced for uniformity of shade, the swatches submitted in accordance with (a) above shall also be evaluated for uniformity of shade.

II. SPECTRAL REFLECTANCE (nIR) TESTING

a. Sampling: Notwithstanding any current provisions of the fabric specification, the following nIR evaluation shall apply to this solicitation. Every lot shall be tested for nIR acceptance. A minimum 18 inch x full width swatch shall be cut by the contractor from every roll selected by the Government Representative, in accordance with the following table:

Presentation Total Yardage Number of Samples Required

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

b. The swatches for nIR testing shall be identified as set “B” prescribed under “I. Shade

Testing” and submitted to DLA Product Testing Center - Analytical for testing. If the swatches fail nIR testing the entire lot will be rejected. A lot that has failed for nIR testing shall be unacceptable regardless of the shade testing results.

c. The contractor shall transmit the swatches along with the DD1222 to:

DLA Product Testing Center – Analytical

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092

d. The DD1222 shall indicate "FOR GOVERNMENT SHADE APPROVAL" or “Spectral

Reflectance (nIR) Testing” and contain the following information:

Box (1) To (Testing facility and address)

Box (2) From (QAR name, address and contact information).

Box (3) Prime contractor’s name, address and contact information. Contract number.

Box (4) Manufacturing plant’s name, address and contact information.

Box (5) End item and/or project. PGC for lead item (PGC’s listed below):

NWU, Blouse, Maternity, Dsrt, TYII PGC 03738

NWU, Slacks, Maternity, Dsrt, TYII PGC 03740

NWU, Blouse, Maternity, Wdld, TYIII PGC 03739

NWU, Slacks, Maternity, Wdld, TYIII PGC 03741

Box (6) Sample number.

Box (7) Lot number.

Box (8) Reason for submittal ("FOR GOVERNMENT SHADE APPROVAL" or “FOR

NIR TESTING”).

Box (9) Date submitted.

Box (10) Material to be tested.

Box (10a.) Quantity submitted.

Box (11) Quantity represented.

Box (12) Specification & amendment and/or drawing no & revision for sample & date.

Box (13) Purchased from or source.

Box (14) Shipment method

Box (15) Date sampled & submitted by (QAR name and signature if lot is sampled).

Box (16) Remarks and/or special instructions and/or waivers (list any additional information pertaining to the lot being tested)

Box (17) Send report of test to (include technical and contracting poc’s. For all NWU items: Bduteamlabs@dla.mil, Joseph.Parker@dla.mil)

e. Each piece acceptable for shade/nIR from which a shade/nIR swatch has been removed shall be cut by the contractor from selvage to selvage so that there will be no evidence of the shade swatch cut-out. The portion removed shall not be included in the yardage indicated on the piece ticket.

f. If the contractor reworks and resubmits pieces originally rejected for shade or finish, it shall not combine the rejected pieces with normal production or with lots rejected for other causes. Such pieces shall be combined to form one resubmitted lot. Each piece shall retain its original piece number, suffixed with an "X". The lot number shall also be suffixed with an "X".

If the contractor splits a cloth lot into sub-lots due to shade variation within the lot; i.e.

Lot 1A, 1B, 1C, etc.; the contractor shall submit the lot as a whole for nIR testing according to the sampling table prescribed herein with at least one roll from each sub-lot sent in for testing. If a lot is split into a greater number of sub-lots than what is prescribed in the sampling table the

QAR shall ensure that at least one roll from each sub-lot be sent in for nIR testing regardless if the sampling table indicates less rolls to be submitted for nIR testing. The contractor shall submit the samples, along with DD1222 and a roll listing. The roll listing shall indicate which sub-lot each roll is confined to. The contractor shall note on the DD1222 for nIR testing in block no. 16 each sub-lot no., total yardage, and quantity of rolls in each sub-lot; i.e.:

DD1222

16. REMARKS AND/OR SPECIAL INSTRUCTION AND/OR WAIVERS

Lot 1A, 1500yds, 3 rolls

Lot 1B, 500yds, 1 roll

Lot 1C, 250yds, 1 roll

The total amount of yards from each sub-lot shall total the yardage for the lot as a whole.

If one roll fails nIR testing, the entire lot shall fail.

g. Before Contractor is permitted to cut cloth, a passing DD1222 for nIR and shade, or failed and accepted under a waiver via a DD3440 form for shade evaluation is required.

END ITEM TESTING PROCEDURES

The following definitions and/or instructions derived from DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR

Quality Systems Requirements are applicable for production and presentation of Navy Coats/Blouses and Trousers/Slacks and components thereof.

a. For physical (non-shade) testing, in accordance with DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR , Part I, the contractor's approved qualified laboratory will be required to forward a completed mailto:Bduteamlabs@dla.mil test report for each lot of cloth to the address below. The QAR will forward the completed

DD form 1222. Samples for physical testing will only be forwarded upon request to:

DLA Product Testing Center Analytical

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111

Attn: Bldg 5D

Email: paactlab@dla.mil

b. Production Lot Testing. When applicable, both the Government and the contractor’s laboratories will test every lot. The Government’s test results will be used for acceptance/rejection purposes. In order to avoid shipping delays, it is recommended that the government and contractor’s testing occur simultaneously. Sampling will be specified in the contract as either 100% or through a statistical sampling procedure as specified for that component in the contract. Samples shall be selected, stamped, and signed off by the source

QAS.

c. Verification Testing. When applicable, both the government and contractor’s laboratories will perform the same tests to correlate results. The

Government’s test results will be used for acceptance/rejection purposes. In order to avoid shipping delays, it is recommended that the government and contractor’s testing occur simultaneously. Sampling will be specified in the contract as either 100% or through a statistical sampling procedure as specified for that component in the contract. Samples shall be selected, stamped, and signed off by the source QAS.

d. Government Contractor Testing. Testing required in a contract but not identified as being Government Acceptance Testing shall be performed as stated in the contract and in compliance with the below.

1. Notification. The vendor shall notify the DLA-PTC representative via email between fourteen (14) calendar days and thirty (30) calendar days from when lots are to be presented to the QAS or Supplier’s Source Sampling Representative.

This allows arrangements to be made if the lab specialist requests to witness testing at the place of performance. The DLA-PTC will reply in writing by the date of lot presentation, whether witnessing, or side-by-samples, are requested. If no reply is received by the date of presentation to the QAS or Supplier’s Source Sampling

Representative, the contractor may proceed.

Notifications should include:

Commercial lab contact information

Government lot #

Contract

Product

Specification

Date of lot presentation to the QAS

All correspondence shall be emailed to:

paactlab@dla.mil

BDUTEAMLabs@dla.mil mailto:paactlab@dla.mil mailto:paactlab@dla.mil mailto:BDUTEAMLabs@dla.mil

2. Contractor Furnished Material (CFM). DLA Troop Support Clothing and

Textile contracts require source sampling of CFM at finishing plants. The following provisions apply to sample selection and lot acceptance.

(a) The Samples shall be randomly selected by the Supplier’s Source

Sampling Representative.

(b) Upon presentation of a lot, the Supplier’s Source Sampling Representative will draw samples and forward the samples to the contractor’s laboratory specified in the contract for testing.

(c) Shipment of Component Lots from the source to the prime contractor need not be deferred except for Government Acceptance Testing (i.e., shade evaluation). Commencement of production prior to receipt of a passing test report from the contractor’s authorized laboratory is solely at the contractor’s risk.

(d) The contactor will provide copies of Certificates of compliance to the QAS.

(e) The contractor is required to ensure that a complete test report for all lots is furnished to the source’s QAS and the appropriate DLA-PTC representative.

3. Correlation Testing. When applicable both the Government and the contractor’s laboratories will perform the same testing to correlate results. The contractor’s test results will be used for acceptance/rejection purposes. If results for correlation testing indicate significant variation between the government and contractor, on site survey, and/or additional testing shall be performed to assure the validity of test results.

PACKAGING & INSPECTION

PACKAGING REQUIREMENTS FOR ALL TYPES AND CLASSES OF NAVY WORKING

UNIFORM NWU

Quantities per shipping container:

20 TROUSERS/MATERNITY SLACKS

30 BLOUSES/MATERNITY BLOUSES

200 CAPS FOR PGCS 00004, 00017, 03747, 03748

20 CAPS FOR PGCS 03602, 03603

Packaging for all items including special measurements shall be appropriately sized for the contents within and sent thru proper traceable means

MIL-STD-147 IS HEREBY REINSTATED AS FOLLOWS:

MIL-STD-147E DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

16 MAY 2008 STANDARD PRACTICE

PALLETIZED UNIT LOADS

STANDARDS (COMMERCIAL)

ASME-MH1 American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) Pallets, Slip Sheets, and Other Bases

For Unit Loads, for construction of pallets.

MIL-STD-129R - DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD PRACTICE

- MILITARY MARKING FOR SHIPMENT AND STORAGE

DATED 18 FEBRUARY 2014

INTERIM CHANGES:

OMISSION OF MARKINGS ON EXTERIOR SHIPPING CONTAINERS OF ITEMS

IN THE DLA TROOP SUPPORT CLOTHING AND TEXTILE (C&T) DIRECTORATE:

THE NOMENCLATURE AND MANUFACTURER'S NAME (WHEN THE NAME IDENTIFIES THE

MATERIAL) SHALL BE OMITTED FROM ALL EXTERIOR SHIPPING CONTAINERS OF DLA

TROOP SUPPORT C&T ITEMS, REGARDLESS OF MODE OF SHIPMENT.

IF THE MANUFACTURER'S NAME DOES NOT IDENTIFY THE MATERIAL AS BEING

CLOTHING, IT MAY REMAIN. NSNS SHALL BE SHOWN ON ALL SHIPPING CONTAINERS OF

C&T ITEMS, THE PACKING LIST SHALL BE PLACED INSIDE THE LAST CONTAINER TO BE

LOADED FOR EACH SHIPMENT. THE WORDS "PACKING LIST HERE" SHALL BE STENCILED,

NOT HAND LETTERED, ON THE CONTAINER.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR PPP-B-636:

FEDERAL SPECIFICATION PPP-B-636 DATED JULY 12, 1981, INCLUDING INTERIM FEDERAL

SPECIFICATION PPP-B-636L DATED JANUARY 1, 1991, IS HEREBY CANCELLED, AND

REPLACED WITH ASTM-D-5118, STANDARD PRACTICE FOR FABRICATION OF

FIBERBOARD SHIPPING BOXES, AND ASTM-D-1974, STANDARD PRACTICE FOR METHOD

OF CLOSING, SEALING AND REINFORCING FIBERBOARD SHIPPING CONTAINERS.

Packaging examination. The fully packaged end item shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shipping containers. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully packaged. The Inspection level shall be S-2 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 2.5.

Examine Defect

Marking(exterior)

& Unit Pack, Omitted; incorrect; illegible, of improper size, location, sequence or method of application.

Materials Any component missing, damaged or not as specified.

Workmanship Inadequate application of components, such as:

incomplete closure of container flaps, loose strapping, improper taping, or inadequate stapling.

Bulged or distorted container.

Contents Number of intermediate containers per shipping container is more or less than required. Number of items per container is more or less than required.

Palletization examination. The fully packaged and palletized end items shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of palletized unit loads. The sample unit shall be one palletized unit load, fully packaged.

The Inspection level shall be S-1 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be

6.5.

Examine Defect

Finished Dimensions Length, width or height exceeds specified maximum requirement.

Palletization

Pallet pattern not as specified.

Interlocking of loads not as specified. Load not bonded with required straps as specified.

Weight Exceeds maximum load limits.

Marking Omitted; incorrect; illegible; of improper size, location, sequence or method of application.