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USS CONSTITUTION
SCOPE OF WORK
1. TASK
0. Task Title ACQUISITION OF 1812 pattern naval trousers for the USS Constitution crew.
1.2 Definition of Need and Proposed Resolution
The USS Constitution requires the creation of 1812 trousers based on a historic pattern, including notions such as buttons, elastic, and zippers.
1.3 Objectives
The goal of this effort is to commission 1812 trousers based on historic patterns created by the Design & Testing Group, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility (NCTRF). The trousers are needed for the USS Constitution’s historic and iconic 1812 uniform, worn while giving tours, interacting with guests, during underways, while marching in parades, traveling on Navy Weeks, and special events. The contractor, under this scope of work, shall perform the work outlined in section 3.0 to accomplish task objectives.
1. DETAILS/SPECIFICATIONS
Please see attachment for further information on speciation for the pants.
Quantities of all other materials are mostly consistent across all sizes (see below).
Based on measurements of the 1812 trouser pattern front/back leg piece (which is one very large piece that requires a large continuous piece of fabric) the estimates for yardage requirements broken down by size are listed below. The front/back leg can be placed side by side on the 60” wide fabric for sizes 24 – 30, but all other sizes cannot. Most other pieces in the model are small enough to be cut from the areas around the leg piece. Pants are to be made ready to wear, no to minimal alterations needed.
Pants must be made out of hemp blend as to be historically accurate.
TECH PACKAGE
| Spec Nomenclature |
| 1812 TROUSER |
| Spec Number |
| N/A |
| Pattern Date |
| 12-Apr-24 |
| Classification |
| Design POC |
| NCTRF |
| Project POC |
| Life Cycle Status |
| Experimental |
| Preparing Activity |
| Size Range |
| 24 - 46 |
| Pattern Origin |
| Block Pattern |
| Base Size |
| 34 Athletic/36 Classic |
| Gender |
| Unisex |
ILLUSTRATION
FRONT BROADFALL/FACING BACK GUSSET (INSIDE)
FRONT FLY BACK GUSSET (OUTSIDE)
POCKETS
BILL OF MATERIALS
FABRIC
| TYPE/DESCRIPTION |
| LOCATION USED |
| YARDS |
| hemp linen |
| Body/Leg/Waistband/etc. |
| 3 |
| plain weave cotton |
| Pocket bag |
NOTIONS BY LENGTH (ZIPPERS, WEBBING, ETC.)
| TYPE/DESCRIPTION |
| LOCATION USED |
| YARDS |
| #3 coil zipper |
| Front fly |
| 5.5" |
| 100% poly 1/4" flat woven tape |
| Back gusset lacing |
| 20" |
| 35/65% woven poly elastic 1.25" |
| Back gusset |
| 6" |
| elastic cord |
| Front button loop |
| 3" |
NOTIONS BY PIECE (SNAPS, EYELETS, ETC.)
| TYPE/DESCRIPTION |
| LOCATION USED |
| YARDS |
| 30 ligne flat 4-hole button (pewter) |
| Front broadfall |
| 2 |
| 30 ligne flat 4-hole button (pewter) |
| Center front waistband closure |
| 2 |
| 20 ligne clear 2-hole backer button |
| Inside front broadfall |
| 2 |
| 20 ligne clear 2-hole backer button |
| Inside center front waistband |
| 2 |
| 24 ligne clear 2-hole backer button |
| Back gusset |
| 2 |
THREAD
Seams, buttonholes, sewn eyelets
TABLE OF FINISHED MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES
(**MEASUREMENTS ARE FOR BASE SIZE FOR EACH OF TWO FIT TYPES: 34A ATHLETIC TYPE; 36C CLASSIC TYPE **)
| CODE |
| POINT OF MEASURE |
| Tol. |
| 34A |
| 36C |
| A |
| 1/2 WAIST |
| +/- 1/2 |
| 17 1/2 |
| 18 1/2 |
| B |
| 1/2 HIP @ 3" |
| +/- 1/2 |
| 19 |
| 20 |
| C |
| 1/2 HIP @ 9" |
| +/- 1/2 |
| 23 1/2 |
| 23 5/8 |
| D |
| FRONT RISE |
| +/- 1/4 |
| 12 7/8 |
| 12 7/8 |
| E |
| BACK RISE |
| +/- 1/4 |
| 16 |
| 16 |
Pattern LIST
| MATERIAL |
| PATTERN NAME |
| PIECE PART |
| CUT PARTS |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-LEGFRONTBACK |
| LEGFRONTBACK |
| 2 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-BROADFALL |
| BROADFALL |
| 2 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-BROADFALLFACING |
| BROADFALLFACING |
| 2 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-RIGHTWB |
| RIGHTWB |
| 2 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-LEFTWB |
| LEFTWB |
| 2 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-WELT |
| WELT |
| 1 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-GUSSET |
| GUSSET |
| 1 |
| hemp linen |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-FLY-FACING |
| FLY-FACING |
| 1 |
| interlining |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-RIGHTWB-INTERLINING |
| RIGHTWB-INTERLINING |
| 1 |
| interlining |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-LEFTWB-INTERLINING |
| LEFTWB-INTERLINING |
| 1 |
| plain weave cotton |
| 1812TRS-C / 1812TRS-A-POCKETBAG |
| POCKETBAG |
| 1 |
SEAMS AND STITCH TABLE
| Seaming Area and Operations |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam Type |
| Leg joining |
| 516 (5 thread safety stitch) |
| SSa-1 |
| Waist joining |
| 301 (single needle lockstitch) |
| Lsj-2 |
| Pocket bag |
| 516 (5 thread safety stitch) |
| SSa-1 |
| Hem |
| 401 (single needle chainstitch) |
| Efb-1 |
| Center front |
| 504 (single needle overedge) |
| Gusset (sides) |
| 516 (5 thread safety stitch) |
| SSa-1 |
| Gusset (top edge) |
| 301 (single needle lockstitch) |
| Sse-1 |
| Zipper joining |
| 301 (single needle lockstitch) |
| Ssaa |
METHOD OF MEASURE
(All measurements are taken with garments laid on a flat, clean surface with all folds smooth, being careful not to stretch or distort the garment. All measurements are taken from the front of the garment unless otherwise noted.)
| CODE |
| POINT OF MEASURE |
| METHOD |
| A |
| 1/2 WAIST @ TOP EDGE OF WAISTBAND |
| FOLDED EDGE TO FOLDED EDGE AT TOP OF WAISTBAND |
| B |
| 1/2 HIP @ 3" DOWN FROM TOP EDGE OF WAISTBAND |
| FOLDED EDGE TO FOLDED EDGE AT WAISTBAND SEAM |
| C |
| 1/2 HIP @ 9" DOWN FROM TOP EDGE OF WAISTBAND |
| FOLDED EDGE TO FOLDED EDGE AT BOTTOM OF BROADFALL |
| D |
| FRONT RISE |
| CROTCH POINT TO TOP OF BROADFALL |
| E |
| BACK RISE |
| CROTCH POINT TO WAISTBAND JOINING SEAM |
PATTERN PIECES
1. PERFORMANCE REQUESTS
The contractor under this scope of work shall provide and deliver the above items and meet the specifications under section 2.0 and arrange for items to be shipped or delivered by DATE to:
USS CONSTITUION
5 Charlestown Navy yard, Charlestown, MA 02129
1. PERFORMANCE LOCATION
To be made offsite and delivered to the above location.
1. HOURS OF WORK
Work is accomplished during normal business hours of 0800-1530, Monday-Friday
1. WARRANTY
The contractor under this scope of work shall warrant the goods of their manufacture for a minimum period of two (2) years from the date of shipment. All of the quoted goods not of the manufacture are warranted by the original manufacturer’s warranty. Should any material be found defective, not meeting specifications, or that which has not been approved in writing by the owner shall, upon discovery (including any time within the period of the guarantee), be replaced with the specified equipment or material at no additional cost to the Government.
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