PURCHASE DESCRIPTION -D396.pdf

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UNITED STATES MILITARY ACADEMY WEST POINT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

FOR OVERBLOUSES, WOMEN’S

NUMBER 396

DATED: 5 January 2005

1.0 SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for polyester/wool and polyester/cotton over blouses intended for wear by female cadets of the United States Military Academy of the Department of the Army.

1.2 The over blouses shall be of two types in the following classes and sizes:

Type I – Short sleeve Type II – Long sleeve

Class 1 Class 2

Class 3

Schedule of sizes Type I

4S 6S 8S 10S 12S 14S 16S 18S

4R 6R 8R 10R 12R 14R 16R 18R 20R 22R

4L 6L 8L 10L 12L 14L 16L 18L 20L 22L

8XL 10XL 12XL 14XL 16XL 18XL 20XL 22XL

Type II

Size Sleeve lengths Size Sleeve lengths Size Sleeve lengths

4S 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 10R 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 16S 29 ½ 31 32 ½

4R 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 10L 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 16R 29 ½ 31 32 ½

4L 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 10XL 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 16L 29 ½ 31 32 ½

6S 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 12S 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 18S 29 ½ 31 32 ½

6R 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 12R 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 18R 29 ½ 31 32 ½

6L 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 12L 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 18L 29 ½ 31 32 ½

8S 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 12XL 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 20S 29 ½ 31 32 ½

8R 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 14S 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 20R 29 ½ 31 32 ½

8L 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 14R 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 20L 29 ½ 31 32 ½

8XL 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 14L 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 22S 29 ½ 31 32 ½

10S 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 14XL 29 ½ 31 32 ½ 22R 29 ½ 31 32 ½

22L 29 ½ 31 32 ½

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2.0 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MILITARY

MIL-C-43594 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-55010 - Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and Military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 40, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

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2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Method 88B (two photographs) – Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Executive Director, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D-204 -

Methods of Testing Sewing Threads

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3.0 REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the supplier.

Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample, in which case this purchase description shall govern.

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3.2 Materials.

3.2.1. Basic Material, class 1. The basic material for the shirt shall be 65% Polyester and 35%

Cotton, woven in a 3-1 Right-Hand twill weighing 8 oz./Square yard.

3.2.1.1 The minimum warp yarns per inch shall be 87

3.2.1.2. The color of the finished cloth shall be white # 01990-50. The corresponding discoloration requirement in MIL-C-29127 (SA) shall apply. - Deleted

3.2.1.3. The “finish” requirement of the white cloth shall conform to the class 2 of MIL-C-

29127(SA). The resin shall be procured. - Deleted

3.2.2. Basic Material, class II. This basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 3940

3.2.2.1. Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray)

3.2.2.2. Weave: Plain

3.2.2.3. Weight: 4.4 to 4.8 ounces per square yard

3.2.2.4. Fiber Content: 80% Polyester, 20% Wool

3.2.2.5. Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

3.2.2.6. Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.2.7. Construction: minimum 65 Ends per inch and 59 Picks per inch

3.2.3. Basic Material, class III. The basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 971.

3.2.3.1. Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray)

3.2.3.2. Weave: Plain

3.2.3.3. Weight: 4.6 to 5.0 ounces per square yard

3.2.3.4. Fiber Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool

3.2.3.5. Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

3.2.3.6. Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.3.7. Construction: minimum 60 ends per inch, 50 picks per inch.

3.3 Button stay. The button stay material for over blouses shall be the basic material of the over blouse, or as an alternate, a commercial button stay material may be used.

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3.4. Interlinings.

3.4.1. For Class I Over blouses, The interlining shall be white in color and either of the following listed in 3.4.2 or 3.4.3. - Deleted

3.4.2. Fusible type Interlining to conform to DHJ Style 375, such as: Chicopee Style 3522 or Sta-

Flex Style 5520 or their equivalent. - Deleted

3.4.3. A non-fusible, woven, stitched-in, polyester fiber cloth conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. - Deleted

3.4.4. For Class II and II Over blouses, the fusible interlining for collar, collar-stand, pocket flaps, loops (straps) and cuff shall conform to type V, Style B, Class 3 of MIL- CL4429. When tested as specified, the fusibles shall meet the initial and laundered bonding strength requirements specified in MIL-C-44296 when fused to the basic material. Note: As an alternate, a stitched-in non-fusible polyester fiber cloth interlining conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. The color shall be charcoal or black.

3.5. Labels.

3.5.1. The contractor shall furnish labels on each over blouse.

3.5.2. The Identification Label is to be approximately 2 ½” x 1 ¼” with the following format:

USMA, LSSO DIV.

West Point, NY Name:

Date:

3.5.2.1. The Identification Label shall be positioned on the bottom right Facing for all over blouses.

3.5.3. An Instruction Label approximately 1 ¼” x 1 ¼” shall be positioned below the identification label; and contain the following information:

TYPE I 65% Polyester/35% Cotton.

Machine wash in warm water at permanent press setting. Tumble Dry at medium cycle. Remove promptly when dryer stops. If not tumble dried, remove garment before spin cycle & drip dry. Touch up with warm iron.

Do not use chlorine bleach.

TYPE II 80% Polyester/20% Wool

Machine was in warm with like colors. Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed.

Tumble dry warm, arm iron when needed. May also be Dry Cleaned.

TYPE III 55% Polyester/45% Wool

Dry Clean Only

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3.5.4. The Size Label shall be approximately ¾” x ¾” and positioned inside the overblouse on the center back under the collar.

3.6. Thread.

3.6.1. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 70, conforming to MIL-T-43548 or spun polyester 70, 2 or 3- ply, conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-T-43624.

3.6.2. Thread color and colorfastness.

3.6.2.1. The color of the thread for Class I over blouses shall be white, Cable No. 66050 conforming to the standard sample. The color of the thread shall show no more discoloration to light (standard 20 hours), perspiration and combined laundering and bleaching than that of the standard sample. - Deleted

3.6.2.2. The color of the thread for Class II and Class III shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043.

The thread shall show colorfastness to laundering, perspiration, and light, equal to or better that the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light.

3.7. Buttons.

3.7.1. The buttons shall conform to type II, class K, style 25, 19 line of V-B-871.

3.7.2. For Class I Overblouses, the button color shall be white DOD shade BA, cable No.

62031. - Deleted

3.7.3. For Class II and III Overblouses, the button color of the buttons shall be shade BT, Cable 62001.

3.8. Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene, tere-phthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010. One end shall be rounded and the other end tapered with the point rounded.

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3.9. Design. The shirt is a semi-fitted hip length over blouse style with front seams and three piece back. The shirt has shoulder loops, convertible collar, and six button front. The collar and shoulder loops have interlinings, and the collar has stays.

3.9.1. Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the purchase description and the figures, the purchase description shall control.

3.9.2. Patterns. A size 12 reference pattern is available for use as a guide for processing the manufacturer’s working patterns and unless otherwise indicated provides an allowance of ⅜ inch for all seams. The supplies may adjust the patterns to suit their method of manufacturing, but shall maintain the finished dimensions and basic design in all details. Patterns are available by written request to U.S. Military Academy, Logistics and Support Organization, Cadet Uniform Work Center Attn: Cutting and Development Section.

3.9.3. List of patter parts. The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from material as specified in accordance with the pattern parts required for the manufacturing process as follows:

TABLE I. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts

Basic Material Center Fronts 2

Side Fronts 2

Center Back 1

Side Backs 2

Sleeve (type I) 2

Sleeve (type II) 2

Sleeve Binding 2

Collar 2

Stay Holder 2

Shoulder Loop 4

Cuff 2

Polyester fiber interlining cloth Front Facing Interlining 2

Fusible interlining Top Shoulder Loop 2

Top Collar 1

Collar Stand 1

Cuff (type II) 2

3.10. End item appearance, bonding strength of fusibles and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays.

3.10.1. Seam appearance rating. After the finished shirt has been laundered five times (see 4.4.2), the appearance rating of the seams and stitching shall be as follows (see 4.4.3):

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Part Minimum average of 3 observations Fused Collar 3.8 Fused Shoulder Loops 3.8

Armholes 2.8

Bust 2.8

Sleeve Hem 2.8

Front and Back Seams 2.8

Bottom hem 2.8

3.10.2. Bonding strength of fusibles. After the shirt has been laundered 5 times, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no “strike-thru” of the adhesive after fusing.

3.10.2.1. Appearance of fusibles. After the shirt has been laundered 10 times, it shall not show bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no showing of the “strike-thru” of the adhesive after fusing.

3.10.2.2 Ultrasonically fused collar stay resistance to laundering (where applicable). After the shirt has been laundered 10 times, the shirt shall show no delamination of the ultrasonically fused collar stays.

3.11. Construction.

3.11.1. Buttonholes. The buttonhole shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be ½ to 9/16 inches long. When a purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt, except for the neck closure buttonhole which shall have the purling on the inside of the shirt. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching, or to stiffen the fabric, prior to stitching buttonholes, are prohibited.

3.11.2 Marking. The parts of the shirt shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

(a) Metal fastening devices.

(b) Sew-on type tickets.

(c) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after the removal of the tickets.

3.11.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions, and configurations.

Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.5.

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3.11.4 Fusing. A single layer of fusible interlining may be fused to a single layer of basic material, on an electric dry heated conveyor or flathead type fusing press which had the capability of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature within an 8-hour time period. For optimum results with a particular fusible style and press used, setting should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining.

3.11.5 Shoulder loops. The shoulder loops shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and correctly positioned, sew one button on each shoulder through facing to correspond with the buttonhole in the shoulder loop. The shoulder loops shall measure 1-⅝ ± ⅛ inched at the narrow end and 1-⅞ ± ⅛ inches at the wide end. A horizontal buttonhole shall be made in the center of each loop ⅛ inch off-center tolerance with the inside cut end of the buttonhole ⅜ to 7/16 inch from point of loop (see 3.7.1). Position shoulder loop so point of loop is ¼ to ⅜ inch forward of shoulder seam, ⅜ ± 1/16 inch from collar joining finished seam with front edge of loop at armhole opening 1 ± 1/16 inch forward of shoulder seam.

Stitch ⅛ to 3/16 inch from raw edge of armhole opening/

3.11.6 Sleeve hem (short sleeve). The bottom edge of sleeves shall be turned under according to notches on pattern with raw edges turned in ¼ inch. The finished hem shall be 1 inch wise and shall be straight-stitched. The sleeve seams shall be bartacked with the seam turned over to one side. The bartack shall be approximately 3/16 inch in length and shall be placed ⅛ inch from bottom of hem across both sides of seam.

3.11.7 Cuffs (long sleeve). The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edge stitching shall be of uniform gage. The cuffs shall finish 2- ¼ ± ⅛ inches wide and shall have rounded lower corners. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. Make a horizontal buttonhole ⅝ ± 1/16 inch long, straight-cut, purl or whip type buttonhole in the center of each cuff (¼ inch off center tolerance) with the end of the buttonhole ½ ± 1/8 inch from the edge. The purl side, if applicable, of the buttonhole shall face toward the outside of the cuff.

3.11.8 Collar. The collar shall be carefully joined to the shirt with notched matching without twists, puckers, or distorting the collar or shirt. The collar ends shall not be uneven in length by more than ⅛ inch. The collar front run shall measure 2-⅞ inches.

3.11.9 Hem. Turn under bottom raw edge of hem ¼ inch and stitch 1/16 to ⅛ from folded edge. Turn up hem according to notches on pattern and tack back edge of facing to hem not less than ½ inch along overedge of facing. Blind stitch hem partially penetrating the body fabric. The stitching shall extend across the front facings, ¾ to 1 inch from overedge stitching edge. The finished hem shall be 1-½ inches wide.

3.11.10 Front buttonholes. Make five vertical buttonholes at top on right front of shirt through the facing centered over marks on pattern positioned ¾ ± 1/16 inch from front edge (see 3.7.4). Make one horizontal buttonhole at top on right front of shirt through the facing with front inner cut edge of buttonhole ⅜ ± 1/16 inch from front edge and ¼ to 1/16 inch below top of facing. The buttonhole shall be parallel to the facing top/

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3.11.11. Front buttons. The buttons shall be aligned and securely sewn in the center of buttonhole ± 1/16 inch on front of shirt and shoulder loops. Collar ends shall be centered equidistant from center of shirt front and shall open not less than ⅝or more than ⅞ inch when collar is buttoned. Position the top button 1-½ ± 1/16 inches from front edge and sew. Sew remaining five buttons on the left front ¾ ± 1/16 inch from the front edge though the front facing.

3.11.12. Pressing and closing shirt. When required, touch-up fronts, backs, sleeve, and bottom hems and collars before folding for packaging. Button shirt fully.

3.12. Measurements. The finished measurements of the over blouses shall conform to all the requirements shown in the following table.

Table II. Finished Measurements (inches).

SIZES

4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Tolerance Collar 1/ 14 ¼ 14 ½ 14 ¾ 15 15 ¼ 15 ½ 15 ¾ 16 16 ¼ 16 ½ ± ¼

½ bust 2/ 18 ½ 19 19 ½ 20 ¼ 21 21 ¾ 22 23 ¾ 24 ¾ 25 ¾ ± ⅜

(Label: 32 ½ 33 ½ 34 ½ 36 37 ½ 39 41 43 45 47)

½ sweep 3/ 18 ⅞ 19 ⅜ 19 ⅞ 20 ⅝ 21 ⅜ 22 ⅛ 23 ⅛ 24 ⅛ 25 ⅛ 26 ⅛ ± ½

Sleeve length 4/ (type I)

3 ¾

± ⅛

Sleeve length 5/ (type II)

Short 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ ± ¼

Regular 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 ± ¼

Long 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ 19 ½ ± ¼

X-Long 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 ± ¼

X-X-Long 22 ½ 22 ½ 22 ½ 22 ½ 22 ½ 22 ½ 22 ½ ± ¼

Back length 6/

Short 21 ⅝ 21 ¾ 21 ⅞ 22 22 ⅛ 22 ¼ 22 ⅜ 22 ½ 23 ⅝ 23 ¾ ± ⅜

Regular 22 ⅞ 23 23 ⅛ 23 ¼ 23 ⅜ 23 ½ 23 ⅝ 23 ¾ 23 ⅞ 24 ± ⅜

Long 24 ⅛ 24 ¼ 24 ⅜ 24 ½ 24 ⅝ 24 ¾ 24 ⅞ 25 25 ⅛ 25 ¼ ± ⅜

Extra Long 25 ⅝ 25 ¾ 25 ⅞ 26 26 ⅛ 26 ¼ 26 ⅜ 26 ½ ± ⅜

1/ Collar measurement shall be taken from center of button to front cut end of buttonhole along base of collar with collar in flat position.

2/ Measure along front at armhole seam with shirt buttoned and laid flat.

3/ Measure from underarm seam, where the shirt and sleeve join, along seam to bottom of sleeve.

4/ Measure from underarm seam, where the shirt and sleeve join, along seam to bottom of sleeve.

5/ Measure from center back at collarstand seam, diagonally across back along sleeve.

6/ Back length measurements taken along center back from undercollar seam to bottom of shirt.

3.13. Workmanship. The finished shirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description.

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4.0 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein.

Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the purchase description where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2. Quality conformance inspection.

4.2.1 Component and material testing. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this purchase description.

4.2.2 End item examination. Sampling and examination of the end item shall be performed in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1492. The shirts shall be classified as dress (“D”) shirts.

5.0 PACKAGING

5.1. Preservation. Preservation shall be Commercial.

5.1.1 Commercial preservation. The over blouses shall be preserved in accordance with MIL- STD-

1188.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be commercial.

5.2.1 Commercial packing. Shirts, preserved as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in accordance with MIL-

STD-1188

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5.3. Bar Code labels.

5.3.1. Individual Over blouse packages shall be labeled with a bar code label corresponding to the

National Stock Number and size of the shirt contained therein.

5.3.2. Bar Code label Characteristics.

5.3.2.1. 3 of 9 format

5.3.2.2. Be affixed to each over blouse package so that it can be read without opening the package.

5.3.2.3. Remain intact while warehoused.

5.3.2.4. Overall dimensions of the label approximately: 2-½ ” x 3-½” (+1” / - ¼”).

5.3.2.5. Font used for printing should be providing capitalized letters or numbers large enough to be easily read but not massive. Suggested font size no less than 1/8” tall as typically found using “Arial” 12 Bold”, or “Times New Roman 14 Bold”.

5.3.2.6. Each Bar Code Label should contain the following:

5.3.2.6.1. BARCODE (with both a start and stop character of * )

5.3.2.6.2. NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER

5.3.2.6.3. DESCRIPTION

5.3.2.6.4. SIZE (as applicable)

5.3.2.6.5. The 3 of 9 format Bar Code on each label shall be no less than ½” tall and may be taller.

5.4. Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract, unit packs and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-1188.

5.4.1. Cartons containing multiple individual over blouse packages shall be labeled with the same Bar

Code Label on individual the over blouse packages contained therein.

5.4.2. Cartons shall contain only one Type of one Size over blouse.

5.4.3. Cartons shall be marked in a consistent location (carton to carton) with the quantity of over blouse contained therein.

5.4.4 Bar Code Labels for cartons shall be applied in an obvious and consistent location on the same side of each carton as the Quantity Label on cartons containing multiple individual over blouse packages.

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6.0 CARTONS

6.1. Cartons shall be sturdy.

6.1.1. Cartons shall be strong enough where three cartons filled to commercial capacity with over blouses, can be stacked on top of each other (three cartons high) where their weight will not collapse or deform the bottom carton in storage and reasonable handling in freight.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

USMA, LSSO USMA, LSSO, CUF