PDWNU1506C.pdf

INCH-POUND

PD WNU 15-06C

18 August 2020

SUPERSEDING

PD WNU 15-06B

17 December 2018

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, WOMAN’S: TUCK-IN

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

mailto:aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil

PD WNU 15-06B

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for two types of women’s Air Force Service Dress tuck-in shirts to be worn by United States Air Force (USAF) female personnel.

1.2 Classification. The shirts are of the following types, as specified (see 6.2):

Type I – Long sleeve (LS) shirt Type II – Short sleeve (SS) shirt

1.3 Schedule of sizes. The women’s tuck-in shirts are furnished in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2):

Sizes and Lengths

Length Size

Short 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Regular 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Long 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

X-Long 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

XX-Long 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-59989 Thread, Polyester, Spun A-A-59994 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-STD-1492 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Men’s Shirts

(Copies of the above documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS (PD)

GL PD 11-05 Cloth, Polyester/Cotton

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering AATCC TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manual are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (DoD Adopted)

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or http://www.ansi.org.)

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 Standard Test Method for Sewing Threads ASTM D2724 Standard Test Methods for Fabrics, Apparel, Bonded, Fused, and

Laminated Apparel Fabrics ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

PANTONE

11-4001 TCX Brilliant White (Copies are available online at https://www.pantone.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be as specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials.

Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The tuck-in shirt design shall be semi form-fitting with a button front, princess lines, convertible collar, one-piece back, and buttoned epaulets (see Figures 1 through 5). The shirt front, collar, cuffs, and epaulets shall be interlined. The Type I shirt shall have long sleeves with button-through cuffs and an additional buttonhole for use with cufflinks (see Figure 6), and the Type II shirt shall have short sleeves with a straight hem.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Material.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton blend yarn dyed herringbone cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1664, and shall conform to the requirements specified in Class 3 of GL PD 11-05 Cloth, Polyester/Cotton.

http://www.astm.org/ https://www.pantone.com/

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Interlining. The top collar, top collar stand, top epaulets, fronts, and top cuffs shall be interlined. The interlining shall be a fusible conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 1, 2, or 3, Style B. The fusible interlining shall meet initial minimum machine direction bond strength of 32 ounces per inch of width, and 24 ounces per inch of width after 20 laundering cycles when tested as specified in Table VI. The color shall be white. The fusible shall be shrink resistant as not to exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage in either the machine or cross direction after steam heat press when tested as specified in Table V.

3.6.2 Thread. The thread shall be polyester core, cotton-covered, Tex 30, 2-ply or Tex 25, 2-ply conforming to A-A-50199 Type I. As a substitute, polyester thread, Tex 25, 2-ply or Tex 30, 2-ply conforming to A-A-59989 may be used. The thread shall be stabilized not to shrink in boiling water more than 1.5 percent when tested as specified in Table V. In addition, when purl-type buttonholes are used, thread conforming to A-A-52094 Type I, Tex 50, 3-ply for the needle and Tex 30, 3-ply for the bobbin. The button thread shall be polyester core, polyester-covered, Type II, Tex 61-70, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to A-A-50199, and have a minimum breaking strength of 5.0 pounds and a minimum length per unit weight of 7250 yards per pound.

3.6.2.1 Color. The color of the thread shall be white AH, C.A. 66050, in accordance with the Department of Defense standard shades if available, or a good match to Pantone 11-4001 TCX (Cotton Chip Set) for all sewing threads.

3.6.3 Buttons. The melamine buttons for the shirt front, cuffs, epaulets, pocket flaps, and replacement buttons shall conform to Type I, Class 1, 19 ligne of A-A-59994 except compressive strength. The minimum compressive strength shall be no less than 350 lbs. The button has a similar shape to style 25 specified in A-A-59994. The color shall be Air Force Shade Pearlized White 1670.

3.6.4 Labels. Each shirt shall have size and appropriate identification/instruction labels.

All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075.

3.6.4.1 Combination identification/instruction label. The instruction label for the shirt shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Classes 1 and 3. The contents of the label shall be as follows:

[This space intentionally left blank]

SHIRT, WOMAN’S TUCK- IN

Long Sleeve/Short Sleeve, AF Blue 1664 Contract Number:

65% polyester, 35% cotton Contractor Name:

Manufacturer Name:

NSN

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115˚F) using soap or mild detergent.

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. Tumble dry on warm or delicate cycle. Remove immediately at end of drying. Shape and hang.

3. To drip dry, remove from washer before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

4. If touch-up is required, iron at a moderate heat setting.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE BLEACH, STARCH, OR FABRIC SOFTENER.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.4.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 2, and shall be no longer than 3/4 inch.

3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, notches, and button placement for the proper assembling of the parts of the shirt will be furnished by the Government (see 6.5). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows in Table I:

TABLE I. Seam allowances.

Seam Allowance Pattern 1/4 inch For the collar, collar stand, attaching the collar, sleeve vents, cuffs and epaulets.

3/8 inch For attaching the cuffs, and for all other seams.

3.7.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts

Basic Material (see 3.5.1)

Center front CTRFRT 2 Side body SIDEBDY 2

Back BACK 1 Collar COLLAR 2

Collar stand COLSTD 2 Short sleeve (Type II) S_SLEEVE 2 Long sleeve (Type I) L_SLEEVE 2

Cuff (Type I) CUFF 4 Sleeve binding (Type I) SLVBIND 2

Epaulet EPAULET 4 Interlining (see 3.6.1) Front fusing FRTFUS 2

Collar fusing COLLARFUS 1 Collar stand fusing COLSTDFUS 1

Cuff fusing CUFFFUS 2 Epaulet fusing EPLTFUS 2

Markers 7 Buttonhole placement 7BTNHMRKR 0 8 Buttonhole placement 8BTNHMRKR 0

Cuff buttonhole placement CUFFTMP 0

3.8 Construction. The shirt shall be constructed as specified in Table III, although the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. The stitches per inch specified in Table III shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the shirts shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished shirt.

3.8.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming and stitch types shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the shirt. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the shirt. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.

3.8.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped no less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded to the materials sewn.

3.8.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, runoffs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or runoff stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner.

c. When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.8.1.2 Type 401, 502, 503, 504, 515, 516, 517, and 518 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose stitching or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of materials sewn. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair Type 401 stitching.

3.8.1.2.1 Repairs of Types 401, 502, 503, 504, 415, 516, 517, and 518 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.1.1 a and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to Type 401 stitching may be accomplished by use of Type 301 stitching.

3.8.1.3 Type 101 stitching. Tension of 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top threads, excessively tight stitching, or puckering on outward appearance of the shirt. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the shirt, unless otherwise specified in the table of operations (see Table III).

3.8.1.3.1 Repairs of Type 101 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack in same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blind stitching. When repairing blind stitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.8.1.4 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked no less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap no less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break no less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.

3.8.1.5 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.8.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type, and the finished cut length shall be 9/16 (±1/16) inch long. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. When a purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the tack. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, and correctly positioned. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

3.8.3 Automatic button sewing. An automatic machine that sews and sets the buttons in one operation shall be used.

3.8.4 Cutting. The parts of the shirt shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.7.1 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table II.

3.8.5 Appearance of seams. The seams on the finished shirt shall finish smooth and flat and shall have an appearance rating of 4.0 or greater. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be as specified in Table VI.

3.9 Manufacturing operation requirements. The shirt shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table III. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. Any basting or holding stitches required to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished garments. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table III, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. Any modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this purchase description.

3.9.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of each shirt shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each shirt. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.9.2 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table III are as follows:

btn Button btnhl Buttonhole incl Including min Minimum sec Seconds

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

1. Cutting.

a. Cut shirt in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, shape, and notches for assembly. Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction.

b. Each shirt shall be cut from one piece of material.

The bias binding for the sleeve cuff opening may be strip cut and placed on rolls. The binding shall be cut of sufficient width (1-5/8 inches) to finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide.

2. Replacement of defective or damaged parts.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-1492 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly shade matched components.

3. Component marking.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all components of the shirt to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and a uniform shade throughout the shirt (see 3.9.1).

4. Fusing.

a. Position top collar and top collar stand fusible interlinings centered on collar pieces with all the edges 1/8 inch from the collar edges. Fuse top collar and top collar stand pieces. If the fusing process causes shrinkage, the collar pieces shall be adjusted before fusing to compensate for the shrinkage.

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

4. Fusing – Continued.

b. Position cuff fusible interlining centered on top cuff pieces with the curved edge 1/8 inch from the curved cuff piece edge and the straight edge 3/8 inch from the straight cuff piece edge. Fuse top cuff pieces.

c. Position front fusing along raw edge of the front and neckline. Fuse interlining to front.

d. Position epaulet fusible interlining centered on top epaulet pieces with all the edges 1/8 inch from the epaulet edges. Fuse top epaulet pieces.

5. Labeling.

a. Center size label at back neck on collar stand seam (±1/4 inch) (see Operation 12b).

b. Position the identification and instruction label on the outside left front (as worn). On the finished shirt the bottom of the label shall be 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the hemmed bottom and the side of the label shall be 1-1/4 to 2 inches from the front folded edge and stitched 1/16 inch from edge on all four sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

6. Make collar.

Finished appearance: The collar shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

a. Position undercollar stand on outside of undercollar with notches matching and join together at the lower edge with a 1/4 inch seam.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn undercollar stand and stitch 1/16 inch from raised edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

c. Position top collar stand on outside of top collar with notches matching and join together at lower edge with a 1/4 inch seam.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

d. Turn top collar stand and stitch 1/16 inch from raised edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

e. Position undercollar and top collar face to face with top notches matching and edges even and seam together along top and side edges with 1/4 inch seam.

301 SSe-2(a) 10-12

f. Trim points and turn collar on a heated collar point turning and pressing machine, working out the points completely and working seam line to edge. The points shall be uniform in length.

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

6. Make collar – Continued.

g. Topstitch the upper and side edges of the collar, 1/4 inch from the finished edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

h. Press collar smooth and flat (see Operation 23).

7. Make cuffs (Type I).

Finished appearance: The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edge stitching shall be of uniform gauge. The cuffs shall finish 2-3/8 inches (±1/8 inch) wide and shall have rounded corners. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and correctly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. The buttonholes on each cuff shall be capable of holding cuff links (see Figure 6).

a. Fold the top raw edge of the outer ply of cuff over and even with top edge of interlining. Top stitch 1/4 to 5/16 inch from folded edge, catching interlining in the stitching.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Stitch the top and under plies of the cuff and interlining together along the bottom and side edges with a 1/4 inch seam.

301 or

SSbc-1 10-12

c. Turn, work out edges, and top stitch 1/4 inch from the seamed edge. The edge stitching shall finish 1/2 inch from the top edge of finished cuff. The edge stitching may taper to edge of cuffs at ends of stitching and need not be backstitched.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

d. Using the Cuff buttonhole placement piece as a guide, make two horizontal buttonholes in center of cuff (±1/8 inch off center tolerance) with the inside cut edge of the buttonhole 9/16 (±1/8) inch from the front and back edge.

304 Purl or whip per btnhl incl tack

42-52 per btnhl incl tack

e. Press cuffs smooth and flat with a hot head pressing machine (see Operation 23).

8. Assemble front and front side panels.

a. Overedge stitch the shoulder and back edges of facing, catching the interlining in the stitching.

502 or

Efd-1 10-12

b. Stitch front and side front panels together with notches matching, evenly distributing the fullness in the bust area.

301 or

SSa-2 10-12

c. Overedge stitch raw edges of front and front panel seams together.

503 or

EFd-1 10-12

OR

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

8. Assemble front and front side panels – Continued.

The front and side front panel may be joined in one operation by seaming and overedge stitching the raw edges together.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-2 10-12

d. Press the front and side front panel joining seams smooth and flat (see Operation 23). The seams shall be pressed toward the center front.

9. Seam shoulders.

a. Join back to fronts at the shoulder. 301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the shoulder seams edges together.

503 or

EFd-1 10-12

OR

The raw edges of the back and front seams at the shoulder may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-2 10-12

c. Press seams smooth and flat, toward back (see Operation 23).

10. Make left and right epaulets (Class 1 and 2 only).

Finished appearance: The epaulets shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement (see Operation 11). The epaulets shall measure 1-5/8 inches (±1/8 inch) wide at the armhole seam, tapering to a width of 1-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) at pointed end.

NOTE: Top epaulet has fusible interlining.

a. Join the two plies of the epaulet (matching notches) around all edges except the armhole end with 1/4 inch seam.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn, work out edges and point, and top stitch along sides and point 1/4 inch from edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

c. Make a buttonhole centered on epaulet. The inside cut edge of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 (±1/8) inch from pointed edge of epaulets.

304 Purl or whip

42-52 per btnhl incl tack

d. Press epaulets with a hot head pressing machine (see Operation 23).

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

11. Set epaulets (Class 1 and 2 only).

Finished appearance: The left and right epaulets shall be attached to corresponding shoulders. The epaulets shall be trimmed and measured to fit the length of the shoulder, and match the shape of the armhole of the shirt. The epaulets shall lie flat and shall extend to 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the collar stand seam. The epaulets shall be centered on the shoulder seam at the armhole and at the neck (see Figure 5). The epaulets shall be set without distortion. The epaulets shall lay flat without puckers or twists when buttoned. Epaulet points shall align with shoulder seams (see Figure 7).

The epaulets shall be stay stitched to the shirt 1/16 to 3/16 inch from the armhole edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

12. Set collar with label.

Finished appearance: The finished collar points shall be 2-3/4 inches (±1/8 inch) long when measured from junction point of collar and lapel. When closed, both sides and points shall be equal.

a. Position collar between facing and front with the lower end of collar in line with the lapel notch, with the collar stand notch aligned with the shoulder seam, and with raw edge of collar and gorge even.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Notch all plies at the end of stitching line. Continue to stitch the lower (neck) edge of the undercollar stand to front and back part from gorge seam to gorge seam. The size label shall be centered on the back neck and caught in seam joining collar to shirt (see Operation 5a).

301 SSa-1 10-12

c. Turn facing to the inside of fronts, working out the points and seamed edges and lapping back edge of facing front end of bottom turn up.

d. Stitch the shoulder edge of facing to the shoulder seam allowance, 3/16 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

e. Turn under lower edge of collar stand from gorge seam, lapping the folded edge on facing and fronts at the shoulder and on the hack. Stitch through all plies 1/16 inch from the folded edge, catching the top of the label in the stitching.

301 BSg-2(b) or

BSj-2(b)

10-12

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

13. Bind sleeve opening (Type I).

a. Bind the raw edges of the sleeve at the sleeve opening with bias binding cut from basic material. The raw edges of the binding shall be turned under and caught in the stitching, 1/16 inch from the inner folded edges. The binding shall finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide on inside and outside of the sleeve opening.

301 BSc-1 10-12

b. Turn binding to inside of sleeve and stitch diagonally through binding only at top of opening.

301 BSc-1 10-12

14. Set sleeve and overedge stitch.

Finished appearance: The sleeves and epaulets shall be set without distortion (see Figure 7).

a. Join sleeve to shirt around the entire armhole, matching the notches and catching epaulet.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the sleeve and armhole together.

504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

The sleeves may be joined to the shirt by seaming and overedge stitching the raw edges together in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-1 10-12

15. Join side and underarm seams.

a. Join fronts and back at the sides and close the sleeve underarm with the armhole seam flat and turned toward the sleeve.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the side and sleeve seam allowance.

504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

The raw edges of the sleeve and side seam allowance may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-1 10-12

16. Hem sleeves (Type II).

Turn up bottom edge of sleeves as indicated by pattern marks with the raw edge folded under to the inside of sleeve. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the turned edge. The finished hem shall measure 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inches in width.

301 SSa-1 10-12

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

17. Join cuffs to sleeve (Type I).

Finished appearance: On the finished shirt, the cuffs shall be 2-3/8 inches (±1/8 inch) wide, and finish smooth and flat without distortion, puckers, or pleats.

a. Match the sleeve pattern notches to form a single 3/8 inch folded pleat, and press so that the pleat will open toward the sleeve placket. Position the underply of the cuff on the lower inside end of the sleeve with edges even. Join sleeve and cuff together, turning the sleeve closing seam toward the back and catching the sleeve seam in the stitching. The bound edge of the sleeve opening shall be turned to the pleated side of sleeve and caught in the stitching. The opposite bound edge shall be flat and caught in stitching.

301 or

LSg-1(a) 10-12

b. Turn cuff on the outside with the hemmed edge lapped on the outside of the sleeve. Stitch the top ply of the cuff to the sleeve, 1/16 inch from the finished edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

18. Hem bottom of shirt.

Finished appearance: The finished bottom edge of the shirt shall be uniformly stitched without puckers or gathers. The rolled hem shall finish 3/16 to 1/4 inch wide.

Hem bottom of shirt with raw edges turned under with stitching extending across facing to front edge. The side seams shall be turned toward the back of shirt.

301 EFb-1 10-12

19. Make buttonholes.

Finished appearance: The top buttonhole shall be horizontal. The remaining buttonholes shall be in vertical alignment with each other. The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the inside of the shirt.

a. For all sizes in S-R-L lengths, mark the right front in accordance with the 7 Buttonhole marker for the location of seven equally-spaced buttonholes, 5/8 inch from the front edge.

For all sizes in XL and XXL lengths, mark the right front in accordance with the 8 Buttonhole marker for the location of eight equally-spaced buttonholes, 5/8 inch from the front edge.

b. Make a horizontal 9/16 (±1/16) inch long straight type buttonhole, tacked at each end, at the top mark.

304 Purl or Whip

42-46 per btnhl incl tack

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

19. Make buttonholes – Continued.

d. Make a vertical 9/16 (±1/16) inch long straight type buttonhole, tacked at each end, at each mark on the front.

304 Purl or Whip

42-46 per btnhl incl tack

20. Mark for buttons.

Finished appearance: The location of the buttons shall be marked so that on the finished shirt, each button shall engage its corresponding buttonhole when the shirt is buttoned. The position of the top button shall provide a smooth closure with the ends of the collar at the neck meeting without overlapping or spreading apart.

For all sizes in S-R-L lengths, mark the left front for the location of seven 19-ligne sewing hole buttons through the center of the buttonholes 5/8 inch from the front edge.

For all sizes in XL and XXL lengths, mark the left front for the location of eight 19-ligne sewing hole buttons through the center of the buttonholes 5/8 inch from the front edge.

21. Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance: The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes to secure a smooth and complete closure without bulging or misalignment.

a. Sew one button to top left front, through facing and interlining only, 1/2 (±1/16) inch from the finished front edge to correspond with the top right buttonhole.

301 or

14-16 per btn

b. Sew button at each additional mark on the left front. The buttons shall be sewn through all plies.

301 or

14-16 per btn

c. Class 1 and 2 only: Sew button on each shoulder.

The buttons shall be securely sewn and aligned with the center of the corresponding buttonholes in the epaulets.

301 or

14-16 per btn

d. Type I only: Sew one button on each end of the buttonhole on the underlapping side of the cuff (see Figure 6).

301 or

14-16 per btn

22. Clean shirt.

a. Trim all thread ends and remove loose threads from shirt. Remove all spots and stains. The shirt shall be free of residual fiber particles, lint and dust, or other foreign substances.

Type

Seam & Stitch Type

Stitches per Inch

22. Clean Shirt – Continued.

b. Remove all shade tickets.

23. Final pressing and closing shirt.

a. Press all hems, back, side seam, underarm, princess seam, and armhole with a hot head pressing machine capable of pressing the entire shirt after fabrication.

b. Touch-up press fronts, cuffs, and collar with a heated iron at a moderate setting (permanent press).

c. Button shirt fully before folding and packaging.

NOTE: Hot head pressing machine shall be equipped with controls for accurate temperature (350-370° F), time (min. 10 sec.), and pressure (100psi gauge).

3.10 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the shirts shall conform to Table IV.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches).

Size 1/2

Bust (A)

1/2 Waist

(B)

1/2 Sweep

(C) Cross-back

(D) Shoulder

(E) Collar Length

(F) 1/2 Biceps

(G) Type II 1/2

Sleeve Opening (H)

0 18-7/8 15-3/4 20-1/4 14 4-3/4 13-3/4 7-1/8 6-5/8 2 19-3/8 16-1/4 20-3/4 14-1/4 4-7/8 14 7-1/4 6-3/4 4 19-7/8 16-3/4 21-1/4 14-1/2 4-7/8 14-1/4 7-3/8 6-7/8 6 20-3/8 17-1/4 21-3/4 14-3/4 5 14-1/2 7-1/2 7 8 20-7/8 17-3/4 22-1/4 15 5 14-3/4 7-5/8 7-1/8

10 21-3/8 18-1/4 22-3/4 15-1/4 5-1/8 15 7-3/4 7-1/4 12 22-1/8 19 23-1/2 15-5/8 5-1/8 15-1/4 7-7/8 7-3/8 14 22-7/8 19-3/4 24-1/4 15-7/8 5-1/4 15-1/2 8-1/8 7-5/8 16 23-5/8 20-1/2 25 16-1/4 5-1/4 15-3/4 8-3/8 7-7/8 18 24-5/8 21-1/2 26 16-3/4 5-1/2 16 8-1/2 8-1/4 20 25-5/8 22-1/2 27 17-1/4 5-1/2 16-1/4 8-3/4 8-1/2 22 26-5/8 23-1/2 28 17-3/4 5-5/8 16-1/2 8-7/8 8-7/8 24 27-5/8 24-1/2 29 18-1/4 5-5/8 16-3/4 9-1/8 9-1/8

TOLERANCE ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±3/8 ±3/8

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches) – Continued.

Size Type I Long Sleeve - Sleeve Inseam (I) Type II Short Sleeve - Sleeve Inseam (J)

Short Regular Long X-Long 2X- Long Short Regular Long X-Long 2X-Long

All Sizes 17 18-1/4 19-1/2 20-3/4 22 4 4-1/2 5 5-1/2 6

TOLERANCE ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches) – Continued.

Size Back Length (K)

Short Regular Long X-Long 2X-Long 0 24-1/4 25-1/2 26-3/4 28 29-1/4 2 24-3/8 25-5/8 26-7/8 28-1/8 29-3/8 4 24-1/2 25-3/4 27 28-1/4 29-1/2 6 24-5/8 25-7/8 27-1/8 28-3/8 29-5/8 8 24-3/4 26 27-1/4 28-1/2 29-3/4

10 24-7/8 26-1/8 27-3/8 28-5/8 29-7/8 12 25 26-1/4 27-1/2 28-3/4 30 14 25-1/8 26-3/8 27-5/8 28-7/8 30-1/8 16 25-1/4 26-1/2 27-3/4 29 30-1/4 18 25-3/8 26-5/8 27-7/8 29-1/8 30-3/8 20 25-1/2 26-3/4 28 29-1/4 30-1/2 22 25-5/8 26-7/8 28-1/8 29-3/8 30-5/8 24 25-3/4 27 28-1/4 29-1/2 30-3/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

3.10.1 Methods of measurement. Shirts shall be buttoned (except in Method (F) Collar Length), laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows (see Figure 8):

(A) 1/2 Bust Measure across front of shirt from folded edge to folded edge, at the base of armhole.

(B) 1/2 Waist Measure across the front of the shirt from folded edge to folded edge at the narrowest point.

(C) 1/2 Sweep Measure across shirt in a straight line from folded edge to folded edge at the lowest point of the side seams.

(D) Cross Back From 5 inches below center back of bottom collar stand seam, measure across the back from armhole seam to armhole seam.

(E) Shoulder Measure along shoulder seam from sleeve seam to collar seam.

(F) Collar Length With collar unbuttoned and collar lying flat, measure straight across the inside of the shirt collar, from collar end to collar end at the gorge (not at the collar points).

(G) 1/2 Biceps With the sleeve smooth and flat, measure from the folded edge to the folded edge of the sleeve at bottom of armhole parallel to long sleeve cuff opening or short sleeve opening.

(H) Type II 1/2 Sleeve Opening

With the sleeve smooth and flat, measure the bottom hem of the short sleeve from folded edge to folded edge.

(I) Type I Sleeve Inseam Measure along underarm seam, from the base of armhole seam to the bottom edge of cuff.

(J) Type II Sleeve Inseam Measure along underarm seam, from the base of armhole seam to the bottom edge of hem.

(K) Back Length Measure from lower edge of collar stand to bottom edge of shirt at center back.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished shirt shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each shirt shall be examined, buttoned, pressed, and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. A shirt containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in MIL-STD-1492 indicated by an asterisk. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample size will be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable purchase document.

4.3.1.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table V shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table V shall be followed. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified.

Component Lot size unit Sample unit Thread Spool 3 each

TABLE V. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Interlining Shrink resistance 3.6.1 Visual 1/

Thread Shrinkage 3.6.2 ASTM D204 2/

1/ A specimen of 22 inches x 22 inches shall be steam heat pressed at 325°F (±4.0°F) for 25 seconds, vacuumed for 5 seconds, and cooled for 30 minutes. Measurement from each of three specimens shall be taken from the mark size of 18 inches x 18 inches.

Average of three measurements shall be used for pass or fail.

2/ Shrinkage in dry heat shall not apply.

4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects. Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.3.3 End item testing. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished shirt shall be examined in accordance with Table VI and shall have a rating of 4.0 or greater after five launderings. This requirement shall be applicable to all seams including the collar, epaulets, armholes, side and underarm seams, and sleeve hem (Type II), and sleeve cuffs (Type I).

4.3.3.1 Bond strength test. The fusible interlining shall meet the requirements stated in

3.6.1 when tested in accordance with Table VI.

TABLE VI. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Seam appearance 3.8.5 AATCC TM88B, (3), (IV), (A)iii

Fusible interlining Bond strength-initial 3.6.1 ASTM D2724 Bond strength-after 20 launderings 3.6.1 ASTM D2724

AATCC TM150 (3), (IV),(A)iii

4.3.4 End item dimensional inspection. In accordance with 3.10, finished shirts shall meet the measurements in Table IV when measured as specified in 3.10.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

4.4 End item visual examination. Finished shirts shall be examined for dress shirt visual defects in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1492 and in accordance with the defects listed in Table VII. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item examinations of dress shirts, dimensional examination, and packaging inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-1492. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in MIL-STD-1492.

TABLE VII. End item visual examination.

Defect Point Values

1. Material Defects and Damages

a. Abrasion damaging the fabric affecting integrity of material. 3

2. Collar

a. Not uniform in size or shape – any point varying:

1) 1/8 inch up to and including 1/4 inch with corresponding point on matching part. 2

2) more than 1/4 inch with corresponding point on matching part. 3

b. Collar point uneven in length by:

1) 1/8 inch. 1

2) more than 1/8 inch up to and including 1/4 inch. 2

3) more than 1/4 inch. 3

3. Epaulets

a. Width at narrow end not as specified. 1

b. Epaulet not placed in accordance with Operation 11 in Table III (see Figure 7). 3

TABLE VII. End item visual examination – Continued.

Defect Point Values

4. Front

a. Two or more buttonholes out of vertical alignment by:

1) 1/8 inch. 1

2) more than 1/8 inch up to and including 1/4 inch. 2

3) more than 1/4 inch. 3

b. Two or more buttons out of vertical alignment by:

1) 1/8 inch. 1

2) more than 1/8 inch up to and including 1/4 inch. 2

3) More than 1/4 inch. 3

c. Uneven in length at bottom when buttoned by:

1) 1/4 inch. 1

2) more than 1/4 inch up to and including 1/2 inch. 2

3) more than 1/2 inch. 3

5. Sleeve Placket/Binding

a. Not even width from top to bottom. 1

b. Twisted or puckered. 1

6. Evenness

a. Left and right sleeve lengths vary by more than 1/2 inch. 2

b. Cuff not even with bottom folded edge of sleeve.

1) 1/8 inch. 1

2) more than 1/8 inch up to and including 1/4 inch. 2

4.5 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The tuck-in shirts are intended to be worn by female military personnel of the Department of the Air Force.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Types, sizes, and lengths required (see 1.2 and 1.3).

c. Quantity required.

d. When a first article sample is required (see 3.1).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

f. Issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

g. Conformance inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

6.3 Fusible interlining source. A suggested fusible interlining is Style Staflex® 4306 available from Harodite Industries Inc., 66 South Street, Taunton, MA 02780 or Style UF713M from QST Industries, Inc., 550 West Adams Street - Suite 200, Chicago, IL 60661 (see 3.6.1).

6.4 Button source. A suggested 19 ligne white button is style 19 Drake Regular, color M8002 available from US Button, 328 Kennedy Drive, Putnam, CT 06260 (see 3.6.3).

6.5 Standard sample and Government pattern. For access to standard shade samples and Government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Uniform, Dress Garment, short-sleeve Garment, long-sleeve Cloth, cotton/polyester herringbone

Figure 1. Woman’s tuck-in shirt, Type I – front view.

Figure 2. Woman’s tuck-in shirt, Type I – back view.

Figure 3. Woman’s tuck-in shirt, Type II – front view.

Figure 4. Woman’s tuck-in shirt, Type II – back view.

IMAGE IS NOT TO SCALE

FIGURE 5. Woman’s service dress tuck-in shirt, epaulet at collar.

IMAGE IS NOT TO SCALE

FIGURE 6. Woman’s service dress Type I long sleeve tuck-in shirt, cuff detail.

FIGURE 7. Woman’s tuck-in shirt, epaulet placement, correct and incorrect.

FIGURE 8. Woman’s tuck-in shirt, how to measure guide.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review activities:

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT