PD WNU 1505D.pdf

INCH-POUND

PD WNU 15-05D

16 February 2021

SUPERSEDING

PD WNU 15-05C

14 August 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, MAN'S: SERVICE DRESS

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU, AFUO, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

mailto:aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for two types of men’s shirts, to be worn by United States Air Force (USAF) male personnel.

1.2 Classification. The shirts are of the following types and classes, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types. The types of the men’s service dress shirt are as follows:

Type I – Long sleeve (LS) shirt Type II – Short sleeve (SS) shirt

1.2.2 Classes. The classes of the men’s service dress shirt are as follows:

Class 1 – 65 percent polyester/35 percent cotton herringbone cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1664 Class 2 – 75 percent polyester/25 percent wool tropical cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1626

1.3 Schedule of sizes. The man’s shirts are furnished in the following sizes and sleeve lengths (see 6.2):

Schedule of sizes and sleeve lengths for Type I

Neck Size Sleeve Length (inches)

13 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 – 13-1/2 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 –

14 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 – 14-1/2 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 –

15 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 – 15-1/2 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 –

16 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 16-1/2 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

17 – 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 17-1/2 – 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

18 – – 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 18-1/2 – – 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

19 – – 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 19-1/2 – – 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

20 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 20-1/2 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

Schedule of sizes and sleeve lengths for Type I – Continued

Neck Size Sleeve Length (inches)

21 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 21-1/2 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

22 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41 22-1/2 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

23 – – – 34/35 36/37 38/39 40/41

Schedule of sizes and sleeve lengths for Type II

Neck Size Sleeve Length/Body Length

13 Regular Long X-Long 13-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

14 Regular Long X-Long 14-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

15 Regular Long X-Long 15-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

16 Regular Long X-Long 16-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

17 Regular Long X-Long 17-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

18 Regular Long X-Long 18-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

19 Regular Long X-Long 19-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

20 Regular Long X-Long 20-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

21 Regular Long X-Long 21-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

22 Regular Long X-Long 22-1/2 Regular Long X-Long

23 Regular Long X-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-59989 Thread, Polyester, Spun A-A-59994 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-STD-1492 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Men’s Shirts

(Copies of the above documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

PD AESC-83-9 Cloth, Tropical, Polyester/Wool GL PD 11-05 Cloth, Polyester/Cotton

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity.)

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering AATCC TM132 Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning AATCC TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manual are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Table for Inspection of Attributes (DoD

Adopted) (Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or http://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D2724 Standard Test Methods for Fabrics, Apparel, Bonded, Fused, and

Laminated Apparel Fabrics ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

PANTONE

11-4001 TCX Brilliant White (Copies are available online at https://www.pantone.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ https://www.pantone.com/

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials.

Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The dress shirt shall have a yoke, a button front placket, a soft collar with stays, pleated patch pockets with a button-down flap on each side of the front, a pencil pocket inside the pleated patch pocket on left front (as worn), and buttoned epaulets (see Figures 1 through 5). The shirt front placket, collar, collar stand, cuffs, pocket flaps, and epaulets shall be interlined. The sleeves of the Type I shirts have placket style openings and convertible cuffs with one pleat in the sleeve and two buttonholes in each cuff (one at each end) and a button at each end of the underside buttonhole (See Figure 6). The sleeves of the Type II shirt shall be hemmed.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 9 are furnished for informational purposes only.

When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Material.

3.5.1 Basic Material Class 1 shirts. The basic material shall be 65 percent polyester/35 percent cotton herringbone, Air Force Shade Blue 1664, and shall conform to Class 3 of GL PD 11-05 Cloth, Polyester/Cotton.

3.5.2 Basic Material Class 2 shirts. The basic material shall be 75 percent polyester/25 percent wool tropical cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1626, and shall conform to the requirements specified in PD AESC-83-9 Cloth, Tropical, Polyester/Wool.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Interlining. The front placket, collar, collar stand, cuffs, pocket flaps, and epaulets shall be interlined. The interlining shall be a fusible conforming to MIL-C-44296 Type V, Class 1, 2, or 3, Style B. The fusible interlining shall meet initial minimum machine direction bond strength of 32 ounces per inch of width, and 24 ounces per inch of width after 20 laundering cycles when tested as specified in Table VI. The color shall be white. The fusible shall be shrink resistant as not to exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage in either the machine or cross direction after steam heat press when tested as specified in Table V.

3.6.2 Thread. The thread shall be polyester core, cotton-covered, Tex 30, 2-ply or Tex 25, 2-ply conforming to A-A-50199 Type I. As a substitute, polyester thread, Tex 25, 2-ply or Tex 30, 2-ply conforming to A-A-59989 may be used. The thread shall be stabilized not to shrink in boiling water more than 1.5 percent when tested as specified in Table V. In addition, when purl-type buttonholes are used, thread conforming to A-A-52094 Type I, Tex 50, 3-ply for the needle and Tex 30, 3-ply for the bobbin. The button thread shall be polyester core, polyester-covered, Type II, Tex 61-70, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to A-A-50199, and have a minimum breaking strength of 5.0 pounds and a minimum length per unit weight of 7250 yards per pound.

3.6.2.1 Color. The color of the thread shall be white AH, C.A. 66050, in accordance with the Department of Defense standard shades if available, or a good match to Pantone 11-4001 TCX (Cotton Chip Set) for all sewing threads.

3.6.3 Buttons. The melamine buttons for the shirt front, cuffs, epaulets, pocket flaps, and replacement buttons shall conform to Type I, Class 1, 19 ligne of A-A-59994 except compressive strength. The minimum compressive strength shall be no less than 350 lbs. The button has a similar shape to style 25 specified in A-A-59994. The color shall be Air Force Shade Pearlized White 1670.

3.6.4 Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet, with a thickness of 0.014 ±0.001 inch, and the color shall be natural (clear or opaque).The stays shall measure 3/8 (±1/32) inch wide and 2-7/8 to 3 inches long. As an alternate, the stays shall have two slots 1-1/8 (±1/32) inches long, centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/8 (±1/32) inch wide and spaced an equal distance across the width of the stay. Either both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one end rounded and one end cut at an angle with the point rounded. Testing shall be as specified in Table V.

3.6.5 Labels. Each shirt shall have size and appropriate identification/instruction labels.

All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements. Additional testing shall be as specified in Table V.

3.6.5.1 Combination identification/instruction label. The instruction label for the shirt shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Classes 1 and 3.

[This space intentionally left blank]

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Class 1 shirts:

SHIRT, MAN’S: SERVICE DRESS

Long Sleeve/Short Sleeve, AF Blue 1664 Contract Number:

65% polyester, 35% cotton Contractor Name:

Manufacturer Name:

NSN

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115˚F) using soap or mild detergent.

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. Tumble dry on warm or delicate cycle. Remove immediately at end of drying. Shape and hang.

3. To drip dry, remove from washer before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

4. If touch-up is required, iron at a moderate heat setting.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE BLEACH, STARCH, OR FABRIC SOFTENER.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

[This space intentionally left blank]

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Class 2 shirts:

SHIRT, MAN’S: SERVICE DRESS

Contractor Name:

Long Sleeve/Short Sleeve, AF Blue 1626

75% polyester, 25% wool USAF Certification No. __________. A sample of this item has been inspected and meets or exceeds the quality prescribed by _(document)____. The manufacturer certifies that this item meets the quality of sample approved by USAF.

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

1. Machine wash separately in cold water, on delicate or gentle wash cycle. If hand washed, do not wring or twist; shape and hang to dry.

2. Tumble dry at low setting. Remove immediately at end of drying. Shape and hang.

3. To drip dry, remove from washer before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

4. If touch-up is required, use iron on low setting.

DRY CLEANING IS RECOMMENDED WHEN COMMERCIAL FACILITIES ARE USED.

NOTE: COMMERCIAL LAUNDERING IS NOT RECOMMENDED.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE HOT OR WARM WATER. DO NOT USE BLEACH, STARCH, OR

FABRIC SOFTENER.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

MADE IN USA

3.6.5.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 2, and shall be no longer than 3/4 inch.

3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, notches, and button placement for the proper assembling of the parts of the shirt will be furnished by the Government (see 6.6). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows in Table I:

TABLE I. Seam allowances.

Seam Allowance Pattern 1/4 inch For the collar, collar stand, attaching the collar, sleeve vents, cuffs and epaulets 3/8 inch For attaching the cuffs, and for all other seams

3.7.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material CAD Pattern Names Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts Basic material (see 3.5.1)

RFRONT Right front 1 LFRONT Left front 1

BACK Back 1 YOKE Yoke 2

L_SLEEVE Long Sleeve (Type I) 2 S_SLEEVE Short Sleeve (Type II) 2 SLV_PLKT Sleeve placket (Type I) 2

CUFF Cuff (Type I) 4 COLLAR Collar 2 COLSTD Collar stand 2 POCKET Pocket 2 PENPKT Pencil pocket 1

PKT_FLAP Pocket flap 4 EPAULET Epaulet 4

Interlining (see 3.6.1)

COLSTDFUS Collar stand fusing 1 CUFFFUS Cuff fusing (Type I) 2

COLLARFUS Collar fusing 1 PFLAPFUS Pocket flap fusing 2 EPLTFUS Epaulet fusing 2 LFRTFUS Left front fusing 1

Templates 7BTNHMRKR 7 Buttonhole placement 0 8BTNHMRKR 8 Buttonhole placement 0 CSTD_MRKR Collar stand buttonhole placement 0 CUFFTMP Cuff buttonhole placement 0 PKSH13_14H Pocket shaper sizes 13 to 14 1/2 0

PKSH15_18H Pocket shaper sizes 15 to 18 1/2 0 PKSH 19_23 Pocket shaper sizes 19 to 23 0

FLSH13_14H Flap shaper sizes 13 to 14 1/2 0 FLSH 15_18H Flap shaper sizes 15 to 18 1/2 0 FLSH 19_23 Flap shaper sizes 19 to 23 0

3.8 Construction. The shirt shall be constructed as specified in Table III, although the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. The stitches per inch specified in Table III shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the shirt shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished shirt.

3.8.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming and stitch types shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the shirt. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the shirt. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.

3.8.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous lines of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the material sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded in the material sewn.

3.8.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, runoffs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutively skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner.

c. When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.8.1.2 Types 401, 515, 516, 517, 518, and 519 stitching and repairs. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair Type 401 stitching.

3.8.1.2.1 Repairs of Types 401, 502, 503, 504, 415, 516, 517, 518, and 519 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.9.1.1.1 a and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to Type 401 stitching may be accomplished by use of Type 301 stitching.

3.8.1.3 Type 101 stitching. Tension of 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top threads, excessively tight stitching, or puckering on outward appearance of the shirt. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the shirt, unless otherwise specified in the table of operations (see Table III).

3.8.1.3.1 Repairs of Type 101 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack in same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blind stitching. When repairing blind stitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.8.1.4 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap no less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.

3.8.1.5 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.8.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type, and the finished cut length shall be 9/16 (±1/16) inch long. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. When a purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the tack. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, and correctly positioned.

The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

3.8.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.8.4 Automatic button sewing. An automatic machine that sews and sets the buttons in one operation shall be used.

3.8.5 Cutting. The parts of the shirt shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.7.1 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table II.

3.8.6 Appearance of seams. The seams on the finished shirt shall finish smooth and flat and shall have an appearance rating of 4.0 or greater. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be as specified in Table VI.

3.9 Manufacturing operation requirements. The shirt shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table III. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. Any basting or holding stitches required to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished garments. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table III, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. Any modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this purchase description.

3.9.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the shirt shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each shirt. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.9.2 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table III are as follows:

btn Button btnhl Buttonhole incl Including min minimum sec seconds

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

1. Cutting.

a. Cut shirt in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets, flaps, and notches for assembly. Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction.

b. The use of drill holes is prohibited, except for the pencil pocket, providing the drill holes are covered by the outer fabrics and label respectively, otherwise, exposed drill holes shall be considered to be holes in the fabric.

c. Each shirt shall be cut from one piece of material.

2. Replacement of defective or damaged parts.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-1492 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly shade matched components.

3. Component marking.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all components of the shirt to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and a uniform shade throughout the shirt (see 3.9.1).

4. Fusing.

a. Position top collar and outer collar stand fusible interlinings centered on collar pieces with all the edges 1/8 inch from the collar edges. Fuse top collar and outer collar stand pieces. If the fusing process causes shrinkage, the collar pieces shall be adjusted before fusing to compensate for the shrinkage.

b. Position pocket flap fusible interlining centered on top pocket flap pieces with all the edges 1/8 inch from the pocket flap edges. Fuse top pocket flap pieces.

c. Position epaulet fusible interlining centered on top epaulet pieces with all the edges 1/8 inch from the epaulet edges. Fuse top epaulet pieces.

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

4. Fusing – Continued.

d. Position cuff fusible interlining centered on top cuff pieces with the curved edge 1/8 inch from the curved cuff piece edge and the straight edge 3/8 inch from the straight cuff piece edge. Fuse top cuff pieces.

e. Block-fuse method is allowed for collar, collar stand, pocket flaps, epaulets, and cuffs.

f. Position left front fusing along raw edge of left front and neck on left front piece. Fuse left front piece.

5. Labeling.

a. Center size label on back yoke seam.

b. Position the identification/instruction label on the outside left front (as worn). On the finished shirt the bottom of the label shall be 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the hemmed bottom and the side of the label shall be 1- 1/4 to 2 inches from the front folded edge and stitched 1/16 inch from edge on all four sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

6. Make cuffs (Type I).

Finished appearance: The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edge stitching shall be of uniform gauge. The cuffs shall finish 2-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) wide and shall have rounded corners. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and correctly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. The buttonholes on each cuff shall be capable of holding cuff links (see Figure 6).

a. Fold top edge of the outer ply of cuff over (3/8 to 7/16 inch) and single stitch, 3/8 inch from folded edge.

301 or

SSbc-1 10-12

b. Join plies of cuff with a 3/16 to 1/4 inch seam along bottom and sides. Turn, work out edges, and top stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge. The top stitching shall stop 1/2 (±1/8) inch from top edge of finished cuff. The top stitching may taper off the edges at the ends and need not be backstitched.

301 or and

SSe-2(a) SSe-2(a)

SSe-2(b)

10-12

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

6. Make cuffs (Type I) – Continued.

c. Using the Cuff buttonhole placement piece as a guide, make two horizontal buttonholes in center of cuff (±1/16 inch off center tolerance) with the inside cut edge of the buttonhole 9/16 (±1/16) inch from the front and back edge.

304 Purl or whip

45-52 per btnhl incl tack

d. Press cuffs smooth and flat with a hot head pressing machine (see Operation 28).

7. Make pocket flaps.

Finished appearance: The pocket flaps shall be interlined, and shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric. The edge stitching shall be uniform on sides and bottom.

a. Seam the plies of flap along the side and bottom edges 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the raw edge.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn, work out edges and points, and top stitch 1/4 inch from edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

c. Make a vertical buttonhole in the center of each pocket flap, with the lower inside cut end of the buttonhole 1/2 (±1/16) inch from bottom edge of flap.

304 Purl or whip

42-52 per btnhl incl tack

8. Make collar.

Finished appearance: The collar shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, or raw edges. When closed both sides and points shall be equal. The points shall finish 2-7/8 inches (±1/8 inch) long.

a. The stays shall be positioned so that on the finished shirt they are at a 25degree to 30degree angle from the front edge of the collar and the tapered ends are fitted into the collar points. The construction shall be as follows:

(1) Spot laminate both ends of the stays to the undercollar.

OR

(2) If slot Type 101 stays are used, stitch stays to the underside of collar. The stitching shall straddle the center bar of the stay and shall not penetrate the stay material.

(zigzag)

20-24

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

8. Make collar – Continued.

OR

(3) Stitch through the pointed end of collar stays (see

Operation 8d).

(4) Ultrasonically fuse the collar stays to the undercollar on the inside with two rows of fusing points that cover the full length of the stay. Each row shall contain 9 to 11 fusing points per inch.

b. Join the two plies of the collar with a 3/16 to 1/4 inch seam with the outer ply and under ply face to face.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

c. Trim, turn, and work out edges and points. Press collar points on a collar-pointing machine.

d. Top stitch collar 1/4 inch from edge. 301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

9. Make collar stand and attach collar.

a. Fold back the bottom edge of the fused under collar stand 3/16 to 1/4 inch and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

301 EFa-1 10-12

b. Place collar between the top and under collar stand (with attached interlining) as indicated by notches on pattern and stitch from end to end along top edge of collar stand, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.

Turn top and under collar stand to finished position and edge stitch 1/16 to 3/32 inch from turned edge.

The stitching may continue around the ends of the collar stand.

301 or and

SSq-2(a) SSq-2(a)

SSq-2(b)

c. Press collar and collar stand with a hot head

10. Prepare fronts with placket.

a. Turn left front back according to the notches closest to the center front. Stitch 1/4 inch from front edge.

301 or

EFa-1 10-12

b. Turn left front again at the second notches, turning the raw edge, and stitch 1/4 inch from folded edge.

301 or

EFa-1 10-12

c. Turn placket back toward the front.

NOTE: Automated equipment may be used to create placket.

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

10. Prepare fronts with placket – Continued.

d. Turn right front back according to the notches closest to the center front.

e. Turn right front again at the second notches and stitch 7/8 inch to 1 inch from front edge.

301 or

EFa-1 10-12

11. Make and set pencil pocket.

a. Turn down top edge of pencil pocket 1-1/4 (±1/8) inches.

b. Overedge stitch bottom of pencil pocket. 502 or 503 or

EFd-1 10-12

c. Turn in the side edges of the pencil pocket 1/2 inch and stitch to the left front of the shirt as indicated by the line on the pattern. Tack the ends of the seam by backstitching. The finished pencil pocket shall be 2 inches (±1/8 inch) wide.

301 LSd-1 10-12

NOTE: The bottom of pencil pocket shall not be stitched closed.

d. Form two compartments with a row of vertical stitching at the center (±1/8 inch) through the shirt.

The stitching shall be backstitched.

301 SSv-1 10-12

12. Make and set pleated patch pockets and flaps.

Finished appearance: The pocket flaps and pockets shall be in horizontal alignment and parallel to the front edges of the shirt. The pocket flaps shall cover the right and left edges of the pockets (see Figure 7).

The finished pockets and pocket flaps, when set on the shirt, shall lie flat and shall conform to the finished measurements in Table IV. Pockets shall be placed in alignment with marks provided on the patterns.

a. Fold a 1-1/4inch wide vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket and stitch. Press pleat open and flat with a heated pressing iron.

301 OSg-1 10-12

b. Overedge stitch the top raw edge of the pleated patch pocket(s).

502 or 503 or

EFd-1 10-12

c. Turn hem as indicated by marks on pattern. The hem shall finish 1-1/4 inches (±1/8 inch) wide.

301 EFb-1 10-12

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

12. Make and set pleated patch pockets and flaps – Continued.

d. Position pockets on fronts at pattern marks. Turn in the raw edges of the pockets 3/8 inch and stitch 1/16 inch from edge. Continue the stitching 3/16 to 1/4 inch across the top of the pleated patch pockets and 1/2 to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of the 1/16 inch stitching. Pockets may be pre-creased.

301 LSd-1 10-12

e. Press right and left fronts with a hot head

f. Stitch the flaps above the top of the pleated patch pockets, as indicated by the marks on the patterns, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the raw edge. Turn down the flaps and raise stitch 1/4 inch from the turned edge covering raw edge of flap with the ends of the flaps backtacked.

301 LSbl-2 10-12

13. Attach yoke.

Finished appearance: The finished yoke shall be without twists or puckers. There shall be no fullness between the two plies.

a. Position back of the shirt between the two plies of yoke, with size label (see Operation 5a) centered and seams even; stitch all plies together.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Press back and yoke, with yoke extended, with a hot head pressing machine (see Operation 28).

14. Seam placket to sleeve (Type I).

Finished appearance: The placket shall be seamed to the front edge of the sleeve opening without twists, pleats, or puckers, and shall finish smooth, and uniform in appearance. The placket shall finish 11/8 inches (±1/8 inch) wide on the outside and inside.

a. Turn under and crease the side edges and upper end of the placket pieces forming a point at the upper end.

b. Position the placket piece on the inside of the sleeve at the front edge of the opening with raw edges even and seam 1/4 inch from the raw edge.

The stitching shall extend from bottom to top end of opening.

301 SSa-1 10-12

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

14. Seam placket to sleeve (Type I) – Continued.

c. Turn the placket at the seam and top stitch the placket 1/16 inch from the fold raised edge.

301 BSj-2(a) 10-12

d. Turn the placket to the outside of the folded edge.

Stitch the placket to the body of the sleeve 1/16 inch from the folded front and slanted top edges, and continue stitching along the back edge from a distance of 1-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) from point, lapping the placket on the bound edge of the sleeve opening.

301 BSj-2(b) 10-12

e. Stitch and backstitch across the width of the placket, from the end of the stitching at the back edge to the row of stitching at the front edge. The stitching shall be through the placket and bound edge of the sleeve opening.

301 SSv-1 10-12

15. Join shoulder seam.

Position fronts between the two plies of yoke and with front and yoke edges even, stitch all plies together. The stitching shall not show on the finished shirt.

301 SSa-1 10-12

OR

With the use of automatic equipment, a single row topstitch is allowed to show on the shoulder seam.

16. Make left and right epaulets.

Finished appearance: The epaulets shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement (see Operation 17). The epaulets shall measure 113/16 to 115/16 inches wide at the armhole seam, tapering to a width of 17/16 to 19/16 inches at pointed end.

NOTE: Top epaulet has fusible interlining.

a. Join the two plies of the epaulet (matching notches) around all edges except the armhole end with 1/4 inch seam.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn, work out edges and point, and top stitch along sides and point 1/4 inch from edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

c. Make a buttonhole centered on epaulet. The inside cut edge of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 (±1/8) inch from pointed edge of epaulets.

304 Purl or whip

42-52 per btnhl incl tack

d. Press epaulets with a hot head pressing machine (see Operation 28).

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

17. Set epaulets.

Finished appearance: The left and right epaulets shall be attached to corresponding shoulders. The epaulets shall be trimmed and measured to fit the length of the shoulder and match the shape of the armhole of the shirt. The epaulets shall lie flat and shall extend to 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the collar stand seam. The epaulets shall be centered on the shoulder seam at the armhole and at the neck (see Figure 5). The epaulets shall be set without distortion. The epaulets shall lay flat without puckers or twists when buttoned. Epaulet points shall align with shoulder seams (see Figure 8).

The epaulets shall be stay stitched to the shirt 1/16 to 3/16 inch from the armhole edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

18. Set sleeve and overedge stitch.

Finished appearance: The sleeves and epaulets shall be set without distortion (see Figure 8).

a. Join sleeve to shirt around the armhole, matching the notches and catching epaulet.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the sleeve and armhole together.

504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

The sleeves may be joined to the shirt by seaming and overedge stitching the raw edges together in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-1 10-12

19. Join side and underarm seams.

a. Join fronts and back at the sides and close the sleeve underarm with the armhole seam flat and turned toward the sleeve.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the side and sleeve seam allowance.

504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

The raw edges of the sleeve and side seam allowance may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-1 10-12

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

20. Hem sleeves (Type II).

a. Turn under the bottom edge of each sleeve, with the raw edge turned in and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 or

EFb-1 10-12

NOTE: The width of the finished sleeve hem shall be 1-1/4 inches (±1/8 inch).

b. Press hem with a hot head pressing machine (see Operation 28).

21. Hem shirt.

Finished appearance: The finished bottom edge of the shirt shall be uniformly stitched without puckers or gathers. The rolled hem shall finish 3/16 to 1/4 inch wide.

Hem bottom of shirt with raw edges turned under with stitching extending across the placket to front edge.

The side seams shall be turned toward the back of shirt.

301 EFb-1 10-12

22. Join cuffs to sleeves (Type I).

Finished appearance: On the finished shirt, the cuffs shall be 2-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) wide and finish smooth and flat without distortion, puckers, or pleats.

a. Match the sleeve pattern notches to form a single 3/8 inch folded pleat and press so that the pleat will open toward the sleeve placket. Seam the underply of the cuff to the underside of the edge of the sleeve with a 3/8 inch seam, turning the sleeve closing seam toward the back.

301 or

LScf-2(a) 10-12

b. Stitch top ply of outer side of cuff with interlining 1/16 to 1/8 inch from finished top edge to the bottom of sleeve on the outside.

301 LScf-2(b) 10-12

OR

Cuffs may be attached in one operation providing the finished appearance is the same.

301 LSe-1 10-12

23. Join collar to shirt.

Finished appearance: The collar shall be joined to the shirt, with notches matching without distorting the stand or collar. The collar points and collar stand shall not differ by more than 1/8 inch. In stitching down collar stand, the stitching shall not be more than 1/8 inch on or off the opposite stand.

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

23. Join collar to shirt – Continued.

a. Turn in the bottom edge of the top collar-stand and stitch to shirt 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edge.

301 LSb-1 10-12

OR

As an alternative, stitch top collar stand to inside of shirt, turning seam allowance toward stand.

301 LScf-2(a) 10-12

b. Stitch down the undercollar stand 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edge through stand and shirt. Continue the stitching around the ends of the collar stand If not previously stitched.

301 LScf-2(b) 10-12

24. Make buttonholes in collar stand and front.

Finished appearance: The buttonhole in the collar stand shall be horizontal with the inside cut end of buttonhole extending 1/8 inch forward of front vertical buttonholes. The remaining buttonholes shall be in vertical alignment with each other. The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the inside of the shirt.

a. Using the Collar stand buttonhole placement piece as a guide, mark and then make one horizontal 9/16 (±1/16) inch buttonhole in center of collar stand.

304 Purl or whip

42-52 per btnhl incl tack

b. Type I shirts: For all sizes in 29, 30/31, 32/33 and 34/35 sleeve lengths and sizes 13 to 16-1/2 in 36/37 and 38/39 sleeve lengths, mark the left front in accordance with the 7 buttonhole placement piece for the location of seven equally spaced buttonholes, 3/4 inch from the front edge.

For sizes 17 to 23 in 36/37 and 38/39 sleeve lengths, and all sizes in 40/41 sleeve lengths, mark the left front in accordance with the 8 buttonhole placement piece for the location of eight equally spaced buttonholes, 3/4 inch from the front edge.

c. Type II shirts: For all sizes in Regular and Long lengths and sizes 13 to 16-1/2 in Extra-Long length, mark the left front in accordance with the 7 buttonhole placement piece for the location of seven equally spaced buttonholes, 3/4 inch from the front edge.

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

24. Make buttonholes in collar stand and front – Continued.

For sizes 17 to 23 in Extra-Long length, mark the left front in accordance with the 8 buttonhole placement piece for the location of eight equally spaced buttonholes, 3/4 inch from the front edge.

d. Make a vertical 9/16 (±1/16) inch long straight type buttonhole, tacked at each end, at each mark on the front.

304 Purl or Whip

42-52 per btnhl incl tack

25. Mark for buttons.

Finished appearance: The location of the buttons shall be marked so that on the finished shirt, each button shall engage its corresponding buttonhole when the shirt is buttoned. The position of the top button shall provide a smooth closure.

a. For all sizes, mark the right front for the location of seven or eight 19-ligne sewing four hole buttons through the center of the buttonholes, 3/4 inch from the front edge.

b. Using flap pocket buttonhole as a guide, mark the button placement on pocket hem.

26. Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance: The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with buttonholes in collar stand, front of shirt, cuffs and pocket flaps. Collar ends shall be centered equal distance from center of shirt front, space between collar ends shall not be less than 1/4 inch or more than 1/2 inch when collar is buttoned.

a. Sew seven or eight buttons on right shirt front 3/4 (±1/16) inch from front edge to correspond to buttonholes on left front.

301 or

14-16 per btn 14-16 per btn

b. Sew one button on right end of collar stand so that when collar is buttoned, center of button shall be in line with vertical buttonholes on front without distorting left or right front.

301 or

14-16 per btn 14-16 per btn

c. Type I only. Sew one button on each end of the buttonhole on the underlapping side of the cuff (see Figure 6).

301 or

14-16 per btn 14-16 per btn

d. Sew one button on each pocket through hem to correspond with pocket flap buttonhole.

301 or

14-16 per btn 14-16 per btn

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

26. Sew on buttons – Continued.

e. Sew one button on each shoulder seam to correspond with epaulet buttonholes.

301 or

14-16 per btn 14-16 per btn

f. Sew two replacement buttons attached 3 inches above finished hem on right button stand.

301 or

14-16 per btn 14-16 per btn

27. Clean shirt.

a. Trim all ends of thread and remove loose threads from shirt. Remove all spots and stains. The shirt shall be free of residual fiber particles, lint and dust, or other foreign substances.

b. Remove all shade tickets.

28. Final pressing and closing shirt.

a. Press all hems, back, side seam, underarm seam, arm hole, and yoke with a hot head pressing machine capable of pressing the entire shirt after fabrication.

b. Touch-up press fronts, cuffs, pockets, and collar with a heated iron at a moderate setting (permanent press).

c. Button shirt fully before folding and packaging.

NOTE: Hot head pressing machine shall be equipped with controls for accurate temperature (350-370° F), time (min. 10 sec.), and pressure (100psi gauge).

3.10 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the shirts shall conform to Table IV.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches).

Neck Size Pocket

(A) Pocket Flap

(B)

Top Width Center Length Top Width Center Length

13 – 14-1/2 4-1/2 5-1/4 4-3/4 2-1/8 15 – 18-1/2 5 5-3/4 5-1/4 2-1/8

19 – 23 5-1/2 6-1/4 5-3/4 2-1/8

TOLERANCE ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches) – Continued.

Neck Size Collar

(C)

1/2 Chest

(D)

Type I Long

Sleeve Length

(E)

Type II 1/2 Short Sleeve

Opening (F)

1/2 Biceps

(G)

1/2

Waist (H)

1/2

Sweep (I)

Cross Back

(J)

13 13-1/2 17 1/2 inch over longer marked size (applicable to all sizes)

6-1/8 8 16 19 15-1/2 13-1/2 14 18 6-3/8 8-1/4 16-5/8 19-1/4 16

14 14-1/2 19 6-5/8 8-1/2 17-1/4 19-1/2 16-1/2 14-1/2 15 20 6-7/8 8-3/4 17-7/8 19-3/4 17

15 15-1/2 21 7-1/8 9 18-7/8 20-3/4 17-1/2 15-1/2 16 22 7-3/8 9-1/4 19-7/8 21-3/4 18

16 16-1/2 23 7-5/8 9-1/2 20-7/8 22-3/4 18-1/2 16-1/2 17 24 7-7/8 9-3/4 21-7/8 23-3/4 19

17 17-1/2 25 8-1/8 10 22-7/8 24-3/4 19-1/2 17-1/2 18 26 8-3/8 10-1/4 23-7/8 25-3/4 20

18 18-1/2 27 8-5/8 10-1/2 24-7/8 26-3/4 20-1/2 18-1/2 19 28 8-7/8 10-3/4 25-7/8 27-1/2 21

19 19-1/2 29 9-1/8 11 26-7/8 28-1/4 21-1/2 19-1/2 20 30 9-3/8 11-1/4 27-7/8 29 22

20 20-1/2 31 9-5/8 11-1/2 28-7/8 29-3/4 22-1/2 20-1/2 21 32 9-7/8 11-3/4 29-7/8 30-1/2 23

21 21-1/2 33 10-1/8 12 30-7/8 31-1/4 23-1/2 21-1/2 22 34 10-3/8 12-1/4 31-7/8 32 24

22 22-1/2 35 10-5/8 12-1/2 32-7/8 32-3/4 24-1/2 22-1/2 23 36 10-7/8 12-3/4 33-7/8 33-1/2 25

23 23-1/2 37 11-1/8 13 34-7/8 34-1/4 25-1/2

TOLERANCE ±1/8 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4

Type II Short Sleeve Inseam (K)

Neck Size Regular Long X-Long

All Sizes 6 6-3/4 7-1/2

TOLERANCE ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8

Back Length (L)

Type I Long Sleeve

Neck Size 29 Sleeve

30/31 Sleeve

32/33 Sleeve

34/35 Sleeve

36/37 Sleeve

38/39 Sleeve

40/41 Sleeve

13 30-3/4 30-3/4 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4 – – 13-1/2 30-3/4 30-3/4 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4 – –

14 30-3/4 30-3/4 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4 – – 14-1/2 30-3/4 30-3/4 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4 – –

15 31-1/4 31-1/4 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4 – – 15-1/2 31-1/4 31-1/4 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4 – –

16 31-1/4 31-1/4 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 16-1/2 31-1/4 31-1/4 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4

17 – 31-3/4 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4 36-1/4 37-3/4 17-1/2 – 31-3/4 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4 36-1/4 37-3/4

18 – – 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4 36-1/4 37-3/4 18-1/2 – – 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4 36-1/4 37-3/4

19 – – 32-1/4 33-3/4 35-1/4 36-3/4 38-1/4 19-1/2 – – 32-1/4 33-3/4 35-1/4 36-3/4 38-1/4

20 – – – 33-3/4 35-1/4 36-3/4 38-1/4 20-1/2 – – – 33-3/4 35-1/4 36-3/4 38-1/4

21 – – – 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 21-1/2 – – – 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4

22 – – – 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 22-1/2 – – – 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4

23 – – – 34-3/4 36-1/4 37-3/4 39-1/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

Type II Short Sleeve

Neck Size Regular Long X-Long

13 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4 13-1/2 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4

14 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4 14-1/2 30-3/4 32-1/4 33-3/4

15 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4 15-1/2 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4

16 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

Type II Short Sleeve

Neck Size Regular Long X-Long

16-1/2 31-1/4 32-3/4 34-1/4 17 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4

17-1/2 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4 18 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4

18-1/2 31-3/4 33-1/4 34-3/4 19 32-1/4 33-3/4 35-1/4

19-1/2 32-1/4 33-3/4 35-1/4 20 32-1/4 33-3/4 35-1/4

20-1/2 32-1/4 33-3/4 35-1/4 21 32-3/4 34-1/4 35-3/4

21-1/2 32-3/4 34-1/4 35-3/4 22 32-3/4 34-1/4 35-3/4

22-1/2 32-3/4 34-1/4 35-3/4 23 33-1/4 34-3/4 36-1/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

3.10.1 Methods of measurement. Shirts shall be buttoned (except in Method (C) Collar Length), laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows (see Figure 9):

(A) Breast Pocket Top Width: Measure from side edge to side edge.

Center Depth: At the center of the pocket, measure from top edge to bottom edge.

(B) Breast Pocket Flap Top Width: Measure from side edge to side edge.

Center Length: At the center of the flap, measure from top edge to bottom edge.

(C) Collar Length With collar unbuttoned, and collar lying flat, measure the inside of the collar from the center of collar button stitching to front cut-end of buttonhole.

(D) 1/2 Chest Measure from folded edge to folded edge at the base of armhole.

(E) Type I Sleeve Length Measure from center back at collar stand seam, diagonally across back to lower seam of back yoke and down sleeve to center bottom edge of cuff.

(F) Type II 1/2 Short Sleeve Opening

With the short sleeve smooth and flat, measure the bottom hem of the short sleeve from folded edge to folded edge.

(G) 1/2 Biceps With the sleeve smooth and flat, measure from the folded edge to the folded edge of the sleeve at bottom of armhole parallel to long sleeve cuff opening or short sleeve opening.

(H) 1/2 Waist At the narrowest area of the waist, measure from folded edge to folded edge.

(I) 1/2 Sweep Measure in a straight line from the bottom of one side seam, across the shirt to the bottom of the opposite side seam.

(J) Cross Back Measure from armhole seam to armhole seam along yoke seam.

(K) Sleeve Inseam Measure from the base of armhole along underarm seam to the bottom edge of hem.

(L) Back Length At center back, measure from collar stand setting seam to bottom edge of shirt.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished shirt shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each shirt shall be examined, buttoned, pressed, and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. A shirt containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in MIL-STD-1492 indicated by an asterisk. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article/pilot lot inspection (see 4.2).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The first article and/or pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1.