Optional Certification Procedures 2020.docx

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FY22_USAFA_Officer_MessDress_Uniforms
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DEPARTMENT OF THE AIR FORCE

AIR FORCE UNIFORM OFFICE

AFLCMC/WNU-TAC

1901 TENTH STREET, BLDG 63

WRIGHT-PATTERSON AFB OH 45433-7605

937-255-4733 937-656-4318 FAX

OPTIONAL UNIFORMS

CERTIFICATION AND QUALITY

CONTROL PROGRAM

Operating Procedures

December 2020

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1.0INTRODUCTION1
1.1Authority1
2.1Certification Policies and Procedures2
2.2Post Certification Shade Policy and Procedure3
3.0GARMENT CERTIFICATION4
3.1Certification Policies4
3.2Certification Labeling5
4.0.REVOCATION OF CERTIFICATION6
4.1Fabric6
4.2Garments6
APPENDIX A8
APPENDIX B10
APPENDIX C11
APPENDIX D12

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE

CERTIFICATION AND QUALITY CONTROL PROGRAM

Operating Procedures

1.0INTRODUCTION
1.1Authority

The department of the Air Force Instruction (AFI) 36-2914 assigns the responsibility to Air Force Material Command (AFMC) for the development, certification, and quality assurance (QA) of optional uniform clothing items. Through this medium, AF personnel, exercising their option to purchase uniform items from commercial vendors and Army/Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES) stores, are assured that the items meet or exceed the specified quality level established by the procurement documents.

1.2 Mission

To fulfill the mission to AF members, the Air Force Uniform Office (AFUO):

1.2.1Evaluates and provides guidance on samples, from current or potential manufacturers, of certified textiles and uniform items.
1.2.2Issues certification numbers for each sample that meets or exceeds specified requirements. Certification numbers are valid for a period of three (3) years from date of issue.
1.2.3Provides information to interested manufacturers regarding procurement documents or changes to procurement procedures.
1.2.4.Furnishes copies of procurement documents, regulations, patterns, and/or other information pertaining to the various uniforms (as available).
1.2.5Makes periodic visits to certified firms.
2.0FABRIC CERTIFICATION
2.1Certification Policies and Procedures
2.1.1Approvals will be awarded to bona fide manufacturers, mills, or converters only. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer or converter of uniform fabrics, whichever gives commercial identity to the fabric, to obtain Air Force (AF) approval for such fabric, and supply each end item manufacturer using the fabric with a certified copy of an AF “Letter of Approval.” Approval letters may be reproduced as needed.
2.1.1.1Approvals will be rendered in the form of a “Letter of Approval” addressed to the submitting company or prime contractor. Approval will not be granted verbally. Any submitting company acting on verbal information, regardless of source, does so at its own risk.
2.1.1.2The approval will apply only to the specific fabric in the color, fiber content, and finish submitted and cannot be projected to any other fabric or the same fabric in any other color/finish. Additionally, the approval shall apply only to that physical location where the item was manufactured. Every production site must submit samples of each item, as specified, for evaluation and certification. Approvals are awarded for a three-year period.
2.1.2Item will be evaluated according to the current procurement document. Approval will be based on the evaluation results and at the discretion of the AFUO.
2.1.3Upon request, the AFUO will provide information on certified suppliers verbally. Information pertaining to subcontractors shall not be given.
2.1.4An information copy of the “Letter of Approval” will be furnished to Headquarters (HQ) AAFES and the Air Force Academy (USAFA).
2.1.5Certification is valid only for the prime contractor and with each applicable subcontractor. If a subcontractor wishes to bid on an AAFES or USAFA contract, certification by the AFUO, as a prime contractor, is required.
2.1.6Notification will be furnished to all manufacturers approximately 30 days prior to date of expiration for each item. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer to submit samples to the AFUO for recertification.
2.1.7Approval of a designated textile may be obtained by submitting two (2) linear yards of fabric, accompanied by specific commercial identification of the fabric, and a certified test report.
2.1.7.1The sample two (2) yards accompanying the test report shall be cut from the same piece as that submitted for the test report and so identified when submitted. This sample cut will be retained by the AFUO and used for comparing future production.
2.1.7.2The certified test report must be submitted from a qualified independent testing laboratory or manufacturer laboratory (if approved) indicating that the fabric meets applicable procurement documents for fabrics, braid, webbing, or belt buckles and their components. Its laboratory report must include test specimen.
NOTE:To preclude unnecessary additional expense, it is suggested that sample swatches of the fabric be submitted for a courtesy shade evaluation prior to obtaining a laboratory test report.
2.1.7.3If the shade evaluation and test report indicates complete conformance, a “Letter of Approval” will be issued to the manufacturer.
2.1.7.4Upon request, a certified test report submitted during each production to verify conformance to the requirements of the aforementioned two-yard sample shall be provided.
2.2Post Certification Shade Policy and Procedure
2.2.1For specified fabrics, a 4 6 inch (approximately) swatch of fabric is required for shade evaluation and approval from each production run.
2.2.1.1Each swatch shall have the back labeled as such with the piece number and dye lot number and submitted to the AFUO.
2.2.1.2Each lot of swatches submitted for shade approval shall include a shade submittal log that includes (as a minimum) piece numbers, dye lot numbers, and total number of swatches. See Appendix A for sample Shade Evaluation Log.
2.2.2The selvages of all fabrics will be comparable in color to the fabric.
2.2.3Certified fabrics must have a decal at 16-inch intervals on the back of the fabric, staggered across its width, to identify the fabric as having been produced in accordance with the samples for which the certificate was issued. See Appendix B for fabrics requiring decal.
2.2.3.1The appearance of the decal will be clear and in harmony with the color of the fabric. The decal may be of such design as desired by the manufacturer. It shall be applied by the manufacturer in a plant owned and operated by its firm or by a finishing plant that is under contract to the manufacturer to finish the fabric to meet applicable Government specifications. If the decal is applied by a finishing plant under contract to the manufacturer to finish the fabric, the actual yardage finished with the decal must be made a matter of record with the certified manufacturer.
2.2.3.2No other firm will be authorized to apply the decal for the manufacturer.
2.2.3.3Decals shall not be stamped until fabric has been approved for shade by the AFUO.
2.2.3.4Exceptions to the decal requirement will be granted on an individual basis.
3.0GARMENT CERTIFICATION
3.1Certification Policies
3.1.1Certification numbers will be issued only to prime manufacturers, such as apparel manufacturers or other entities, engaged in the fabrication of uniform garments and accessories
3.1.1.1The prime contractor is responsible for all work performed by a subcontractor.
3.1.1.2The definition of a subcontractor is one who takes a portion of the contract or manufacturers a portion of the contract.

For example: The prime contractor cuts the garments and contracts another supplier to sew the garments, which makes the supplier that sews the garments a subcontractor. This supplier shall be considered a subcontractor, even if it is owned by the prime contractor.

3.1.2The prime contractor is required to furnish the AFUO an affidavit, executed on the firm's letterhead, specifying manufacturing and subcontractor information (as applicable).
3.1.3Two (2) samples of the uniform item will be manufactured and sent to the AFUO. Upon certification approval, one (1) sample will be returned to the supplier. If certification is denied, both samples will be returned.
3.1.4Upon request, the following information shall be provided:

· Graded patterns, in the sizes and media specified.

· Certified reproduced copies of letters of approval and/or Certificates of Compliance obtained from suppliers of the basic and component materials employed in the end item. A Certificate of Compliance consists of a letter on supplier letterhead stating that components meet all applicable physical requirements.

3.1.5Garment manufacturers using certified accessories, such as visors, buckles, and clips, are advised that the accessories must be certified separately.
3.1.6Garment manufacturers are fully responsible for the quality of noncertified component items. A letter of compliance shall be obtained from each supplier of noncertified items to ensure proper quality is being furnished.
3.1.6.1Samples of component items may be submitted for courtesy evaluation.
3.1.6.2Garment manufacturers using noncertified components on end items that incorporate their approval number place the certification in jeopardy. Such violations constitute grounds for revocation of certification.
3.1.6.3The manufacturer is responsible for maintaining the quality of uniform items. It is strongly suggested that an adequate quality control (QC) system be maintained.
3.1.7If the item conforms to AF requirements in all respects, a “Letter of Approval” along with a certificate number will be awarded. Garments will be evaluated using current procurement documents and standards. Approval will be based upon the results of this evaluation and at the discretion of the AFUO.
3.1.8If the sample item is rejected, the manufacturer will be notified of discrepancies. The manufacturer may resubmit a new or reworked item using the sample item in its possession as an example.
3.2Certification Sizes
3.2.1Sizes that are submitted for certification shall be:

· Hat: 22 women’s; men’s 7-1/4

· Coat: 10 women’s Regular; 40 men’s Regular

· Slacks/skirt/trousers: 10 women’s Regular; 34 men’s Regular

· Physical Training Uniform: Medium Regular

· Shirts: 10 women’s Regular; 15-1/2/33 men’s

· Sweater: 34 women’s Regular; 40 men’s Medium Regular

· Maternity: women’s Medium

3.3Certification Labeling
3.3.1Certified manufacturers are required to identify each uniform item with a certification label permanently attached to each item. The certification labels shall be the type specified in the procurement document or contract. Incorrect, incomplete, out of date, or misleading words on the label shall not be used. The inscription on the label shall conform to the following:

USAF Certification No. ____________. A sample of this item has been inspected and meets or exceeds the quality prescribed by ________________________. The manufacturer certifies that this item meets the quality of sample approved by USAF.

3.3.2 Supplier’s labels must contain a date code to identify the date the uniform item was manufactured. The date will be on a quarterly basis and must be marked with indelible ink. The following codes will be used to identify the quarters:

01 First Quarter (January, February, March) 02 Second Quarter (April, May, June) 03 Third Quarter (July, August, September) 04 Fourth Quarter (October, November, December) Years will be identified by the last two (2) digits of that year. For example: If a garment is manufactured in May 2011, the date code would be 0211.

3.3.3Uniform item must be labeled for size and cut as specified in the procurement document.
4.0.REVOCATION OF CERTIFICATION
4.1Fabric
4.1.1Certification may be revoked any time it is determined that the certification holder has violated any of the expressed conditions under which the certification was issued:
4.1.1.1Decal is improperly applied, lacking decals, or decal applied before receiving shade approval.
4.1.1.2Failure to submit proper swatches for shade evaluation before shipping.
4.1.1.3Failure of prime contractor to advise of change(s) of finish contractors and plants, subcontractors, and/or manufacturing facilities.
4.1.1.4Failure to permit inspection personnel access to manufacturing and warehousing facilities.
4.1.1.5Failure to submit a two-yard sample and test report when requested.
4.1.2First infractions of the Certification Program requirements will be transmitted to the contractor, in writing, and will constitute a warning. The contractor will be required to respond, in writing, within 15 calendar days as to the action being taken to rectify the noted shortcomings and to indicate when and where corrected item can be inspected.
4.1.3The next violation of the same infraction(s) will result in a decision by the AFUO and HQ AAFES whether to revoke the certification. The length of the revocation period will be determined at that time, but shall not be less than six (6) months.
4.1.4Notification of revoked certification will be made to HQ AAFES and all affected AF agencies. At that time, disposition of the affected items will be at procurement office discretion.
4.1.5Reinstatement of a contractor's certification may be made, after the revocation period by resubmitting, using the same procedures required of a new contractor. If the product is acceptable, a new certification number will be issued. Previously used certification numbers may not be used.
4.2Garments
4.2.1Certification may be revoked any time it is determined that the certificate holder has violated any of the expressed conditions under which the certification was issued:
4.2.1.1Use of noncertified materials.
4.2.1.2Workmanship is not at an acceptable quality level.
4.2.1.3Component materials or parts not equivalent in quality to the certified sample.
4.2.1.4Labeling requirements not as prescribed.
4.2.1.5Failure to submit item(s) for evaluation either for recertification or interim inspection.
4.2.1.6Failure of prime contractor to advise of change(s) of subcontractor and manufacturing facilities.
4.2.1.7Failure to permit inspection personnel access to manufacturing and warehousing facilities by prime and/or subcontractors.
4.2.1.8Failure to submit certificates of compliance upon request.

APPENDIX A

SAMPLE LETTERS

SAMPLE LETTER 1 MANUFACTURER REQUESTING GARMENT CERTIFICATION

(Company Letterhead*)

ASC/WNUV-TAC

ATTN: Certification Program 1901 Tenth Street, Bldg 63 Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7009 This is to certify that the manufacturer listed below exercises complete control over the purchase of all components, as well as the cutting and quality of workmanship employed in the manufacture of commercially made Air Force uniform items intended for sale to the Army/Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES) stores, AF ROTC Units, commercial outlets, and authorized individuals.

It is understood that all approvals, which my firm receives, will be rescinded if the above statement is found to be false. Permission is hereby granted to personnel of your office to visit the workshop listed below to perform in-process inspections in order to ascertain compliance with Air Force and manufacturing requirements.

** Item Name of Prime Contractor Address City, State and Zip Code Phone/Fax Number Name of Manufacturing Plant(s) *** Address City, State and Zip Code Phone/Fax Number Name of Individual and Signature Title

*Company letterhead required.
**Request for multiple items at one (1) manufacturing location is permissible. Separate request letters are required for each manufacturing location.
***Required whether manufacturing plant name or location is not the same as the prime contractor. This includes all subcontractors and separate cutting and sewing facilities.

SAMPLE LETTER 2 MANUFACTURER REQUESTING FABRIC CERTIFICATION

(Company Letterhead *)

ASC/WNUV-TAC

ATTN: Certification Program 1901 Tenth Street, Bldg 63 Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7009 In accordance with the Optional Uniform Program Operating Procedures, the enclosed yardage is submitted for certification. Lab report(s) are attached.

Fiber blend and weave, Air Force Shade Number, Procurement Document Number (**) (***) Name of Individual and Signature Title Attachment(s):

Test lab report

*Company letterhead required.
**Request for multiple items at one (1) manufacturing location is permissible. Separate request letters are required for each manufacturing location.
***Required whether manufacturing plant name or location is not the same as the prime contractor. This includes all subcontractors.

APPENDIX B

SHADE EVALUATION OF FABRIC

ASC/WNUV-TAC

ATTN: Certification Program

1901 Tenth St Bldg 63

WPAFB, OHIO 45433-7605

SHADE EVALUATION REQUEST

U. S. AIR FORCE

MANUFACTURER:

DATE:

FABRIC IDENTIFICATION:

SHADE NO:

SPECIFICATION:

QUANTITY SUBMITTED:
Rolls:

FIBER CONTENT:

Yards:

LOT NO:
PC NO:
COMMENTS
LOT NO:
PC NO:
COMMENTS

FAX RESULTS TO:

FAX:

PHONE:

APPENDIX C

CERTIFIED FABRICS

Fabric Content
Shade

Number

Document
Decal

Required

100% Polyester Jersey Knit 85% Polyester / 15% Cotton Knit Gray 1634 Gray 1652

PD YAGC 04-01
—
100% Polyester Texturized Twill
Blue 1625
PD YAGC 94-1

100% Polyester with Moisture Management

Blue 1650
PD CRFD/PD 04-07
—

100% Polyester with Repellant Properties

Blue 1651
PD CRFD/PD 04-08
—

100% Polyester with Repellant Properties

Blue 1651
PD CRFD/PD 04-10
—

80% Polyester / 20% Wool Tropical 75% Polyester / 25% Wool Tropical Blue 1581 Blue 1626

PD AESC 83-9A
—
65% Polyester / 35% Cotton Poplin
White 3013
A-A-55292
—

55% Polyester / 45% Wool Gabardine, Type II, Class 12

Blue 1605
MIL-DTL-10176
55% Polyester / 45% Wool Serge
Blue 1620
MIL-DTL-823

55% Polyester / 45% Wool Tropical, Type III, Class 2

Black 1604
MIL-DTL-21115
55% Polyester / 45% Wool, Tropical
Blue 1583
PD AESC 82-2

55% Cotton / 45% Polyester Knit Fleece (11.5 oz) 55% Cotton / 45% Polyester Knit Fleece, (8 oz) Gray 1648 Gray 1647

PD TAC 07-09
—
Cotton Webbing, Type IV, Class 3
Blue 1089
MIL-W-530
—

Cotton/Rubber/Polyester Elastic Webbing

Blue 1089
UQC-S-4-4
—
Belt, Trousers, Cotton Webbing, with Clip
Blue 1616
MIL-B-833
—
Elastic Webbing, Polyester
Blue 1616
PD YAGC 90-3
—
Nylon / Cotton Satin
Blue 1160
PD AESC 82-9
—

APPENDIX D

CERTIFIED END ITEMS AND DOCUMENTS REQUIRED

Uniform Items

Shade No.
Certified Procurement Document
Component
Belt, Cotton Webbing
Cotton,

Blue 1089 MIL-B-833 Type IV MIL-W-530 Type IV Webbing Class 3

Belt, Cotton Webbing
Cotton
MIL-B-833, Type VIII

MIL-W-530, Type IV Webbing Class 2

Belt, Polyester Elastic Webbing, 1-1/4 in wide 1 in wide

Blue 1616
PD YAGC 90-3
—

Buckle and Clip End Buckle-Type I, Class B and Clip-Type III, Class 2 Buckle and End Clip

Metal Clip Mirror Finish Chrome

MIL-B-1963
Buckle and Clip
Jacket, Physical Training Uniform
Blue 1651
PD CRFD/PD 04-08
Outershell
Pants, Physical Training Uniform
Blue 1651
PD CRFD/PD 04-10D
Outershell
Sweater, Cardigan, Unisex
Blue 1627
PD YAGC 96-2
Outershell

Sweatshirt, Pullover, Air Force Lightweight Heavyweight

Gray 1647 Gray 1648

PD TAC 07-09
Outershell

T-Shirt, Physical Training Uniform (Long Sleeve) (Short Sleeve)

Gray 1634 Gray 1652

PD YAGC 04-01
Outershell
Trunks, Physical Training Uniform
Blue 1650
PD CRFD/PD 04-07
Outershell

Men’s Uniform Items

Shade No.
Certified Procurement Document
Component
Cap, Men’s, Garrison, Classes 1 and 2
Blue 1620
MIL-C-3261
Outershell
Coat, Men’s, Service Dress
Blue 1620
PD YAGC 93-3
Outershell
Coat, Men’s, Mess Dress
Blue 1583
PD AESC 82-6
Outershell

Collar/Shawl

Hat, Men’s, Service
Blue 1625
MIL-C-3095
Outershell

Hat Visor, Men’s, Embroidered, Colonel and General

Black
Drawing 58C3520
—
Necktie, Class 4
Blue 1622
A-A-55199
Outershell
Shirt, Men’s, Short and Long Sleeves
Blue 1581
PD AESC 84-l
Outershell
Sweater, Men’s, Pullover
Blue 1630
PD YACL 02-1
—

Topcoat, Men’s Double Breasted with Removable Liner

Blue 1605
PD AESC 88-1
Outershell
Trousers, Men’s, Mess Dress
Blue 1583
PD AESC 82-7
Outershell
Trousers, Men’s, Service Dress
Blue 1625

Blue 1620

PD AESC 85-1
Outershell

Women’s Uniform Items

Shade No.
Certified Procurement Document
Component
Cap, Garrison, Women’s, Classes 1 and 2
Blue 1625
MIL-C-87215
Outershell
Hat, Women’s, Service
Blue 1625
PD YAGC 96-1
Outershell
Hat Band, Embroidered Cap Device
Blue 1625
Drawing 58C3520

B-4-7 B-4-5

Jacket, Mess Dress, Women’ s
Blue 1583
PD YAPC 04-05
Outershell
Jumper, Women’s, Maternity, Service Dress
Blue 1625
PD YAGC 93-1
Outershell
Necktab, Women’s, Shirt, Mess Dress
Satin,

Blue 1160

PD AESC 83-8

Type III Outershell

Shirt, Women’s, Ceremonial
White 3013
PD AESC 85-7
Outershell
Shirt, Women’s, Long Sleeve, Overblouse, Service Dress
Blue 1626

Blue 1550

PD YACL 02-2
Outershell
Shirt, Women’s, Maternity (Long Sleeve)., Service Dress
Blue 1550

White 3013

PD AESC 82-17
Outershell
Shirt, Women’s, Maternity (Short Sleeve), Service Dress
Blue 1550
PD AESC 82-17
Outershell
Shirt, Women’s Overblouse (Short Sleeve) Service Dress
Blue 1626

Blue 1550

PD YACL 02-2
Outershell

Skirt, Women’s, Mess Dress, with Slit (Class I) without Slit (Class II)

Blue 1583
PD APC 05-06
Outershell
Skirt, Women’s, Darted, Service Dress
Blue 1620

Blue 1625

PD YAG 96-3
Outershell
Skirt, Women’s, Maternity, Service Dress
Blue 1625
PD AESC 81-5
Outershell
Slacks, Women’ s, Service Dress
Blue 1625

Blue 1620

PD YAGC 93-6
Outershell
Slacks, Women’s, Maternity, Service Dress
Blue 1625
PD AESC 81-6
Outershell
Sweater, Women’s, Pullover, Service Dress
Blue 1630
PD YACL 02-1
—
Sweater, Women’s, White Cardigan, Service Dress
White 1602
PD AESC 83-5
Outershell

Topcoat, Women’s, Double Breasted with Removable Liner

Blue 1605
PD AESC 88-2
Outershell

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