NU PD 20001 Jacket SWO 12-16-19.pdf

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

INCH-POUND

CAGE Code 32263

NU/PD 20001

10 DEC 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, LEATHER, SURFACE WARFARE OFFICER (SWO)

This purchase description is approved for use by the Department of the Navy and the Defense Logistics Agency.

1. SCOPE.

1.1. Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for one type of leather, jacket, designated for Surface Warfare Officer (SWO).

1.2. Classification. The jacket is available in the following sizes and lengths.

Sizes: 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, and 60 Lengths: Regular and Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government Documents.

2.2.1. Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications and standards form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DISTRIBUTION C. Distribution authorized to U.S. Government agencies and their contractors as this is a restricted item. Other requests for this document shall be referred to DLA Troop Support, Clothing and Textiles.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the procuring activity, see 6.2.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

JJ-W-155 - Webbing, Textile (Cotton, Elastic)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55126 – Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zipper (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon A-A-59992 – Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-508 - Cloth, Oxford, Nylon, 3 Ounce MIL-DTL-10884 - Fasteners, Snap MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-DTL-32092 - Leather, Cattlehide, Deerskin and Horsehide, Chrome Tanned MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications - The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc AATCC Test Method 20 – Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies of these document are available from http://www.aatcc.org.)

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ASQ-Z1.4 - Procedures, Sampling and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available from http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D276 – Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles ASTM D1814 – Standard Test Method for Measuring Thickness of Leather Units ASTM D2594 - Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power ASTM D3776/D3776M – Standard Test Method for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric ASTM D6193 – Standard Practices for Stitches and Seams ASTM D3787 – Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles-Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D3990 – Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

(Copies of this document are available from http://www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test, Modified Draize Method, Principles and Methods of Toxicology

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.crcpress.com.)

SAE International

AMS-STD-595 - Colors Used in Government Procurement

(Copies are available online at http://standards.sae.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2. Design. The surface warfare officer (SWO) jacket shall have the following features:

black leather outer shell:

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.crcpress.com/ collar with collar stand two piece sleeve with knit cuff back with bellows at each side, side back, belt and skirt two lined patch pockets with leather flaps pencil pocket within left patch pocket (as worn) two piece underarm gusset with three metal eyelets (two front, one back) protective flap with vertical “USN” letters perforated through the flap knit waistband slide fastener closure withe leather thong loop fastener tape on left front chest fully lined (inside) jacket through body and sleeves inside pocket with leather welts, snap closure (left front as worn)

3.2.1. Figures. The SWO jacket figure, figures 1 through 4, are furnished for information purposes only and are for general reference. They shall not to be used in the place of government furnished patterns. Figures 5 through 21 shall apply for construction and inspection purposes.

When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.3. Materials and components. The materials and components shall conform to the applicable specifications and standards as listed or required herein.

3.3.1. Leather.

3.3.1.1. Basic material. The basic material used as the outer shell of the jacket shall be fabricated from a soft or flexible cattlehide leather 0.9 to 1.1 mm thick, conforming to MIL-DTL-32092, Type I, Class 2. The leather shall be dyed black to match AMS-STD-595/27038 and shall be drum dyed and shall penetrate through the flesh side to the underside of the hide. The cattlehide leather shall have a fine pebble print grain with a semi bright finish and be free of common leather defects.

3.3.1.2. Pockets, flaps, facings, belt, skirt, hanger reinforcement, collar and hanger loop. The outer shell of each patch pocket, flaps, facings, gusset, belt, hanger reinforcement, collar and hanger loop shall be fabricated from the basic material 3.3.1.1.

3.3.2. Knit components. The knit cuffs and waistband shall meet the physical requirements listed below in Table I and shall be capable of excellent stretch and recovery and shall. Elastic shall be incorporated into the knit components to aid in meeting the stretch and recovery requirement.

When tested, there shall be sufficient elastic in the components to ensure the components meet the knit stretch and recovery requirements. The elastic used shall not be visually noticeable in the finished component. The use of reprocessed, reused or waste wool shall be prohibited (see 3.4).

TABLE I. Knit component requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber content Wool Waistband weight 11 oz./ sq. yd. (minimum) Weight per dozen pairs of cuffs 11 ounces (minimum) Bursting strength 80 lbs. (minimum) Stretch 90% (minimum) Recovery 85 to 100% pH (wool only) 4.0 to 8.0 Mothproofing (wool only) Pass Shrinkage, length or width (including relaxation shrinkage) (wool only) 13%

Colorfastness (minimum):

Light Laundering Perspiration Wet-dry cleaning Crocking

Rating

3.3.2.1. Waistband. The jacket’s knit waistband shall be a 1 x 1 rib knit conforming to the requirements in 3.3.2., Table I.

3.3.2.2. Cuffs. The wrist cuffs for the jacket shall be a 1 x 1 rib in its middle section and its ends shall be tapered with a tuck or expanding stitch. The finished cuff shall have a circular seamless construction. The cuffs dimensions and configuration shall be in accordance with Figure 18.

3.3.3. Lining.

3.3.3.1. Lining, jacket. The lining, for the jacket, shall be fabricated from the nylon oxford cloth conforming to MIL-DTL-508, Type I, Class 2. The color of the cloth shall approximate the basic material, 3.4.1.1, when tested in accordance with 4.4.2, Table VII.

3.3.3.2. Lining, pockets.

3.3.3.2.1. Pocket, patch. The lining for the patch pocket shall be fabricated from the twill cloth conforming to A-A-52106, color black.

3.3.3.2.2. Pocket, inner. The inner pocket shall be fabricated from lining cloth, 3.3.3.1.

3.3.4. Interfacing. The interfacing for the collar, pocket flap, and hanger reinforcement shall be fabricated from buckram cloth conforming to A-A-59992, Type III, Class 5. The color shall be natural or undyed.

3.3.4.1. Color. Unless otherwise specified, the color of all textile (non-metal) components of the jacket shall approximate the black basic material in 3.3.1.1

3.3.5. Elastic webbing. The elastic webbing shall conform to JJ-W-155, Type I, Class 3. The elastic webbing shall be ¾ inch wide. The color shall be natural. The length of the elastic webbing shall conform to the patterns (± 1/8 inch), (see 3.5.2.1, Table III).

3.3.6. Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to A-A- 55126, Type I, Class 1, Style A. The finished length and width of the fastener tape shall conform to the marks on patterns (± 1/8 inch).

3.3.7. Thread. The thread shall conform to A-A-59826, Type II, class A or B, Tex 70. As an alternate the thread for the jacket lining parts may conform to Class B of A-A-59826, Type II, Tex 70. The thread shall be colorfast to dry cleaning, perspiration, and light with a rating of 3-4 (minimum).

3.3.8. Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall conform to A-A-55634, Type III, and Table II. The slide fastener shall be a size #10 separating zipper with a non-reversible, automatic locking slider. The slider shall be wide enough to accommodate a leather thong and pull tab (see 3.3.9.).

The metal components of the slide fastener expect the slider’s lock pin and/or spring shall be a commercially available brass alloy 230 or 268 with a durable black oxide finish. The lock pin and/or spring shall be stainless steel material. The tape of the slide fastener shall be woven from 100% polyester, 100% spun aramid, polyester/cotton blend, or nylon/cotton blend yarns. The slide fastener’s tape shall be a good match to the basic material, 3.3.1.1, with a rating 3-4 minimum for colorfastness to laundering and wet-dry cleaning. The endurance inspection of A- A-55634 shall apply. The slider shall close the slide in the upward direction.

TABLE II. Slide fastener lengths

Jacket Size Slide Fastener Length (Inches) Regular Long

32 20 1/4 21 3/4 34 20 1/4 21 3/4 36 21 1/4 22 3/4 38 21 1/4 22 3/4 40 22 1/4 23 3/4 42 22 1/4 23 3/4 44 22 1/4 23 3/4 46 22 1/2 24 48 22 1/2 24 50 23 24 1/2 52 23 24 1/2 54 23 24 1/2 56 23 1/2 25 58 23 1/2 25

Jacket Size Slide Fastener Length (Inches) Regular Long

60 23 1/2 25

3.3.9. Thong. The thong shall be fabricated from the basic material (leather), (see 3.3.1.1), and shall be looped through the zipper pull and securely knotted. The free finished length of the thong shall be 2-1/2 (± 1/4) inches long by 5/16 (± 1/16) inch wide. The end of the thong shall be cut on an angle of approximately 60 degrees.

3.3.10. Button. The buttons shall conform to A-A-59994, Type I, Style 20 or 21, Class 1, Size 30 Ligne, dull f inish. The color shall approximate the basic material, 3.3.1.1.

3.3.11. Snap fasteners. The snap fasteners shall conform to MIL-DTL-10884, Style 2, Finish 2 or 5.

3.3.12. Eyelets. The eyelet and washer shall be made of brass with a black chemical finish. The dimensions of the eyelets shall conform to Figure 19.

3.4. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.5. Construction.

3.5.1. Cutting. The leather and the lining for the jacket shall be cut in strict accordance with the government furnished patterns (see 3.5.2.1). The knitted material for the waistband and cuffs shall be cut in the wale direction of the knit. The lining gussets may be cut from the ends.

3.5.2. Patterns. The government will furnish a complete set of patterns, which show size, directional lines, cut quantity and placement marks and notches for assembly and which provide for a 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams except for 3/8 inch seam allowance for the collar and pencil pocket and neckline joining seam between the front, back and collar/collar stand pattern pieces. The pocket (patch and inside), flap, welt (pencil and inside pocket), and loop patch shall be placed in accordance with the marks on the pattern. In addition, components such as the eyelet and washer, snap fastener, hoop and loop fastener tapes, elastic webbing, etc. shall be placed in accordance with the marks on the pattern. A tolerance of (± 1/16) shall apply to the pattern’s placement marks and shall be the seam allowance tolerance. The government patterns shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. The government pattern shall not be alternated. Minor modifications are permitted to the contractor’s working pattern where necessary when using automatic equipment or to accommodate the manufacturer’s production process. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability or dimensional requirements cited in this specification. The jacket shall be constructed from the pattern pieces listed in Table III.

3.5.2.1. Pattern parts. The component parts of the SWO jacket patterns shall cut from the materials specified in Table III.

TABLE III. Pattern parts list 1/

Material Pattern Part Piece Name Cut Parts Leather (3.3.1.1.)

FRONT PD20001-FRONT CUT 2

FRONT ALTERNATE PD20001-

FRONT_ALTERNATE

CUT 2

BACK PD20001-BACK CUT 1

SIDE BACK PD20001-SIDE_BACK CUT 2

TOP SLEEVE PD20001-TOP_SLEEVE CUT 2

UNDER SLEEVE PD20001-UNDER_SLEEVE CUT 2

RIGHT FACING PD20001-RIGHT_FACING CUT 1

RIGHT FACING ALTERNATE PD20001-RIGHT_FAC_ALT CUT 1

LEFT FACING PD20001-LEFT_FACING CUT 1

LEFT FACING ALTERNATE PD20001-LEFT_FAC_ALT CUT 1

FRONT FLAP PD20001-FRONT_FLAP CUT 1

COLLAR STAND PD20001-COLLAR_STAND CUT 2

TOP COLLAR PD20001-TOP_COLLAR CUT 1

UNDER COLLAR PD20001-UNDR_COLLAR CUT 2

BELT PD20001-BELT CUT 1

SKIRT PD20001-SKIRT CUT 1

GUSSET PD20001-GUSSET CUT 2

PATCH POCKET PD20001-PATCH_POCKET CUT 2

TOP POCKET FLAP PD20001-TOP_POCKET_FLAP CUT 2

UNDER POCKET FLAP PD20001-

UNDER_POCKET_FLAP

CUT 2

ALTERNATE FRONT

EXTENSION

PD20001-

ALT_FRONT_EXTENSION

CUT 2

ALTERNATE FACING

EXTENSION RIGHT

PD20001-

ALT_FAC_EXT_RGHT

CUT 1

ALTERNATE FACING

EXTENSION LEFT

PD20001-

ALT_FAC_EXT_LEFT

CUT 1

Lining (3.3.3.)

FRONT LINING PD20001-FRONT_LINING CUT 2

BACK LINING PD20001-BACK_LINING CUT 1

SIDE BACK LINING PD20001-SIDE_BACK_LIN CUT 2

TOP SLEEVE LINING PD20001-TOP_SLV_LIN CUT 2

UNDER SLEEVE LINING PD20001-UNDR_SLV_LIN CUT 2

SKIRT LINING PD20001-SKIRT_LINING CUT 1

GUSSET LINING PD20001-GUSSET_LINING CUT 2

PATCH POCKET LINING PD20001-PATCH_PKT_LIN CUT 2

WELT INSIDE POCKET PD20001-WELT_INS_PKT CUT 1

FACING INSIDE POCKET PD20001-FAC_INS_PKT CUT 1

INSIDE POCKET INNER PD20001-INS_PKT_INN CUT 1

INSIDE POCKET OUTER PD20001-INS_PKT_OUT CUT 1

PENCIL POCKET WELT

FACING

PD20001-

PNCL_PK_WLT_FAC

CUT 2

PENCIL POCKET LINING PD20001-PNCL_PKT_LIN CUT 1

Interfacing (3.3.4.)

COLLARSTAND INTERFACING PD20001-COLLAR_STD_INT CUT 2

COLLAR INTERFACING PD20001-COLLAR_INT CUT 2

UNDER POCKET FLAP

INTERFACING

PD20001-

UNDR_PKT_FLAP_INT

CUT 2

Knit Cloth (3.3.2.)

WAISTBAND KNIT PD20001-WAISTBAND_KNIT CUT 1

Webbing (3.3.5.)

ELASTIC WEBBING PD20001-

ELASTIC_WEBBING

CUT 4

FINISHED TOP COLLAR

TEMPLATE

PD20001-FINISH_COLLAR -

FINISHED PATCH POCKET

TEMPLATE

PD20001-FINISH_PTCH_PKT -

FINISHED POCKET FLAP

TEMPLATE

PD20001-FINISH_PKT_FLAP -

1/ There are no pattern pieces for the knitted cuffs, leather hanger loop, hanger reinforcement and the leather reinforcement for the eyelet associated with the welt pocket (see 3.3.1.2).

3.5.3. Shade and size marking. Except for the lining gusset, all the component parts of the leather outer shell and the jacket lining shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade, grain pattern, and proper assembly throughout the jacket. The bundling method may be used for the leather skins provided they conform to 3.5.4. No metal fastening device or sewn-on ticket shall be used. The shade and size markings shall be accomplished by the use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil provided the markings do not show through to the outer side of the jacket or the jacket lining, and shall not be deleterious to the leather or the cloth. The markings shall be placed on the seam allowance and shall not be visible on the outer shell of the assembled jacket. The adhesive type shade and size marking tickets shall be used for the shade and size markings provided they conform to 3.5.4.1. The assembled jacket shall not contain any shade or size marking tickets.

3.5.4. Bundling method. The leather skins for the jacket shall be segregated and bundled into groups by shade and grain pattern, to ensure the outer shell parts of the jacket are uniform. The color of the skins shall conform to 3.3.1.1. Sufficient component parts shall be cut from each group to achieve as many complete jacket outer shells as possible. The component parts of each individual group shall be assembled into a bundle and the top ply of each individual component part shall be marked with a bundle number and size of the jacket. The markings shall comply with 3.5.3. The component parts cut from various bundled groups shall not be joined together to construct a single jacket outer shell.

3.5.4.1. Adhesive shade and size marking tickets. The adhesive shade and size marking tickets for the jacket shall be fabricated from paper with a thermo-activated adhesive applied on one side. The adhesive shall not discolor or damage the cloth or leather and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the cloth or leather upon removal of the ticket. The heat used to attach the thermo-activated adhesive tickets shall not stiffen, harden, scorch, or damage the leather or cloth, as applicable in any manner. The jackets with the tickets shall be visually inspected to ensure no residue remains on the jacket after removal of the ticket (Table VIII).

3.5.5. Seams and stitching. Unless otherwise specified, any seam type or stitch type identified in this document shall conform to ASTM D6193. Unless otherwise specified, Stitch Type 301 shall be used and visible on the finished jacket. There shall be 8 to 10 stitches per inch for all the types of stitching. All the double rows of stitching shall be 3/16 to 1/4 apart.

a. Lining, stitch types. All the sections of the lining, when sewn to each other, shall be joined together with overedge stitching, Stitch Type 602, 1/4 inch wide overcasting the edge, and Stitch Type 401, 1/2 inch from the edge, forming a seam similar to Seam Type SSa-2. The Stitch Types 602 and 401 may be accomplished simultaneously or individually. As an alternate, Stitch Types 504, 505, or 506 may be substituted for stitch Type 602 and stitch Type 301 may be substituted for Stitch Type 401. The cut edges, of the lining sections, that are not sewn to each other shall be overedge stitched individually with 504, 505, or 506.

3.5.5.1. Sewing. Each row of stitching shall be straight and parallel to the seam edge. The straightness of the stitching in any row shall be maintained within a tolerance of plus or minus 1/32 inch. The same tolerance for spacing and parallelism shall be applicable for the double rows of stitches. The ends of all the Stitch Type 301 stitching, that are not caught in other seams or stitches shall be securely backstitched by overlapping on themselves for at least 1/2 inch. The thread breaks, skips, and run-offs shall be overstitched not less than one inch. The thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall not be any be loose or tight stitching and the lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn together. All the thread ends shall trimmed. Except for the hanger loop and the top edge of the pocket flaps, which may be turned under, no cut or raw edges shall be visible. All the seam edges shall be properly forced out and shall not contain any folds. No seam or component shall be twisted, puckered, or pleated and no part of the jacket shall be caught in an unrelated operation or seam. The slide fastener’s retainer shall be placed ½ to ¾ inch from the bottom of the jacket.

3.5.5.2. Pocket flap button. The top of each pocket flap shall have a button sewn on for appearance purposes. The button is not intended to be functional. The button shall be sewn through the pocket flap according to marks on patterns. The button shall be attached either by hand or machine sewing.

3.5.5.2.1. Hand sewing. When the buttons are attached by hand sewing, a minimum of four double strands of the thread through each sewing hole shall be used. The thread shall then be wound around the attaching threads, a minimum of four times to form a hand wrapped shank 1/8 to 3/16 inch long. The threads shall be passed through the shank at least four times to secure the loose ends.

3.5.5.2.2. Machine sewing. When the buttons are attached by machine, Stitch Type 101 with 20 to 24 stitches per button, or Stitch Type 301, 14 to 16 stitches per button shall be used. Each machine sewn button shall have a securely machine wrapped shank, 1/8 to 3/16 inch long.

3.5.5.3. Patch pocket and flap. The patch pocket and flap shall have a hook and loop fastener tape closure. Each patch pocket shall have a loop fastener tape to its topside (leather) and each pocket flap shall have hook fastener tape attached to the underside. Both the hook and loop fastener tapes shall be attached according to marks on patch pocket and flap pattern pieces.

3.6. Finished measurements. The jacket shall be cut according to the patterns and after assembly shall conform to the dimensions for all sizes specified in Table IV and V when measured as specified in 4.4.5. The variation in length between the left and right sleeve inseams shall not exceed 1/2 inch in any jacket.

TABLE IV. Finished jacket measurements (inches)

SIZE 1/2 Chest (A)

1/2 Waist (B)

Back Length (C) Sleeve Inseam Length (D) Collar

Length (E)

Collar stand

Height

(F) Regular Long Regular Long

32 18 1/2 16 1/2 20 1/4 21 3/4 13 3/4 15 15 1 34 19 1/2 17 1/2 20 3/4 22 1/4 14 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 1 36 20 1/2 18 1/2 21 1/4 22 3/4 14 3/4 16 16 1/2 1 38 21 1/2 19 1/2 21 3/4 23 1/4 15 1/4 16 1/2 17 3/8 1 40 22 1/2 20 1/2 22 1/4 23 3/4 15 3/4 17 18 1/4 1 42 23 1/2 21 1/2 22 1/2 24 16 1/4 17 1/2 18 3/4 1 44 24 1/2 22 1/2 22 3/4 24 1/4 16 3/4 18 19 1/2 1 46 25 1/2 23 1/2 22 7/8 24 3/8 17 1/4 18 1/2 19 3/4 1 48 26 1/2 24 1/2 23 24 1/2 17 3/4 19 20 1/8 1 50 27 1/2 25 1/2 23 1/8 24 5/8 18 1/4 19 1/2 20 1/2 1 52 28 1/2 26 1/2 23 1/4 24 3/4 18 3/4 20 20 7/8 1 54 29 1/2 27 1/2 23 3/8 24 7/8 19 1/4 20 1/2 21 3/8 1 56 30 1/2 28 1/2 23 1/2 25 19 3/4 21 21 3/4 1 58 31 1/2 29 1/2 23 5/8 25 1/8 20 1/4 21 1/2 22 1/8 1 60 32 1/2 30 1/2 23 3/4 25 1/4 20 3/4 22 22 1/2 1

TOL. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 +3/4 +3/4 ±1/2 ± 1/2 ±1/8 ±1/8 -1/2 -1/2

TABLE V. Finished jacket pocket measurements (inches)

Finished Jacket Pocket Parts Finished dimensions Tolerance Patch pocket length (G) 7 1/4 ± 1/8 Patch pocket width (H) 7 ± 1/8

Pocket flap, length at center (I) 2 3/4 ± 1/8 Pocket flap, length at sides (J) 2 1/4 ± 1/8

Pocket flap, width (K) 7 1/8 ± 1/8 Pencil pocket welt, length (L) 1/2 ± 1/8 Pencil pocket welt, width (M) 1 ± 1/8

Pencil pocket, depth (N) 5 5/8 ± 1/8 Inside pocket welt, length (O) 7 ± 1/8 Inside pocket welt, width (P) 7/8 ± 1/8

Inside pocket, depth (Q) 8 ± 1/8

3.7. Property markings - The flap, which extends down the front of the jacket beneath the slide fastener, shall be perforated with the letters “USN”. The letters shall be placed in the center of the width of the flap, and in the direction axis of the flap. The perforations shall be in the upper portion of the flap, above the horizontal seam. The letters shall be 1 inch high and 1 inch wide (± 1/16 inch) and shall be evenly spaced so that the total width is approximately 1 inch. The letters “USN” shall be perforated through both thicknesses of the leather in the flap and so spaced that these perforations shall not propagate a tear in the leather, pull out, or cut any portion of any seam in the facing.

3.8. Label. A combination, identification and size label shall be centered (± 1/2 inch) below the hanger reinforcement and edge stitched on all four sides to the lining only. The label shall conform to Type VI, Classes 1 and 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall contain the inscription below. The lot number and manufacturing date may be stamped on the label after label is sewn to jacket.

NOMENCLATURE: JACKET, LEATHER, SURFACE WARFARE OFFICER (SWO)

SIZE: 40 (EXAMPLE)

SPECIFICATION: NU/PD 20001

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: XYZ COMPANY (EXAMPLE)

NSN: 8415-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE)

CONTRACT NUMBER: SPM1C1-10-D-0000 (EXAMPLE)

LOT #

MFR DATE

3.8.1. Label, barcode. The jacket shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075, Type VIII, Class 17. The paper used for the tags shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each jacket by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The label/tag shall be located on the end item so that it is completely visible when it is folded or packaged as specified. The bar coding element shall be legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN).There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initial “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The bar codes for the NSN and UPC shall be medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item. When it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label shall not cause any damage to the jacket such as a spot or stain or damage due to the location on the garment. When the jacket is placed in a plastic bag, use Type VII (pressure sensitive label) of MIL-STD-32075 shall be used. When the jacket is tied in a bundle or left as an individual item, Type VIII (Tag, Paper) of MIL- STD-32075 shall be used.

3.9. Toxicity. The finished jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility to with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.10. Workmanship. Each finished jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter shall be completely removed. The snap fasteners and the metal eyelets and washers on each jacket shall be securely clinched without distortion, cracking, splitting, or cutting of the leather. The snap fastener stud and socket on each jacket shall be properly aligned so that when snapped together shall not cause a noticeable bulge or twist to the inner pocket.

Each jacket’s metal components shall not be misaligned or distorted nor contain any corrosion, scale, cut, dent, nick, burr, sliver, crack or sharp edge. The jackets shall not contain any non-specified hole, tear, cut, burn, needle chew, spot, stain, or weakening defect. The collar shall be uniform in shape, centered, with the even pointed corners and shall match the collar template.

The patch pocket and pocket flap shall be uniform in shape and conform to their respective templates. The finished patch pockets with flaps shall be horizontally and vertically aligned on the front of the jacket. The jacket sleeves shall be even in length. The bellows folded edge shall be equal distance at the shoulders for the jacket and the lining. The bellows folded edge at the bottom shall be equal distance for the jacket and the lining. The front opening shall be even in length at the neck and the bottom of the jacket when slide fastener is closed. The construction of the jacket shall not interfere with the movement of the slider. The left and right edges of the jacket opening shall meet and shall not overlap when slide fastener is closed. In general, the jackets shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect performance, reliability or durability. The occurrence of defects cite under Table VIII shall not exceed the acceptance criteria established herein. When preparing a finished jacket for bagging, each jacket’s slide fastener shall be fully closed, the snap fastener shall be snapped together, and the pocket flaps shall be secured. Each jacket shall be placed face down and the sleeves shall be folded across the back. Each jacket shall then be folded in half by bringing the bottom up to the top.

4. VERIFICATION.

4.1. Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.2.2)

4.2. First article inspection. The first article inspection of the jacket shall be performed on completed end items for all the requirements in Section 3. The first article inspection shall consist of examinations and tests for all the requirements of this specification and shall be unacceptable if the requirements are not met.

4.2.1. First article samples. Unless otherwise specified, the manufacturer shall submit two jackets of any size specified in the contract or order. The samples shall be representative of the construction, workmanship, components, and materials to be used during production.

4.2.2. Conformance inspection. Conformance testing shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in section 4.

4.2.2.1. Conformance inspection sampling. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with the provisions of ASQ-Z1.4. The sample unit shall be one jacket and the lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets.

4.3. In-process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations of each jacket shall be made at any point, during any phase of the manufacturing process, to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified. Materials and components, which can be classified as a defect in accordance with TABLES VIII and IX shall be removed from production.

4.4. Inspection methods. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in section 4 in this purchase description.

4.4.1. Component inspections.

4.4.1.1. Knit component tests. The knit characteristics specified in 3.3.2. shall be tested in accordance with the test methods specified in Table VI. Unless otherwise specified, the tests shall apply to both the cuffs and the waistband (see 3.5.2.1).

TABLE VI. Knit component verification

Property Verification method

Weight for waistband ASTM D 3776/D3776M Option C

Weight per dozen pairs of cuffs See 4.4.1.1.1.

Bursting strength ASTM D3787

Stretch and recovery ASTM D2594 pH AATCC 81

Mothproofing See 4.4.1.2.

Knit type See 4.4.1.3

Colorfastness to light AATCC 16.3, Opt C Colorfastness to laundering AATCC 61, Test 2A Colorfastness to perspiration AATCC 15

Colorfastness to crocking AATCC 8

Fiber content AATCC TM 20 or ASTM D276

4.4.1.1.1. Weight per dozen pairs test for cuffs. Twelve pairs of cuffs shall be weighted on any scale that can be calibrated to the nearest ounce. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.1.2. Mothproofing test. All testing specified in MIL-C-43665 shall be performed. The contractor shall identify the mothproofing treatment used.

4.4.1.3. Knit stitch verification. One cuff and one waistband shall be visually examined for conformance to the required knit stitches. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.2. Component and material testing. The characteristics shall be tested in accordance with

TABLE VII.

TABLE VII. Component and material testing.

Material Characteristic Requirement Test Method 1/

Leather All 3.3.1.1 MIL-DTL-32092

Thickness ASTMD 1814

Slide fastener All 3.3.8 A-A-55634

Slide fastener tape Colorfastness to: 3.3.8

Laundering AATCC 61, Test 3A 2/, 3/

Wet-dry cleaning AATCC 132 2/,3/ Metal composition 4/

Snap fastener All 3.3.11 MIL-DTL-10884

Webbing, elastic

All 3.3.5 JJ-W-155

Thread All 3.3.7 A-A-59826 Button All 3.3.10 A-A-59994

Lining All 3.3.3.2.2,

3.3.3.1 MIL-DTL-508

Interfacing All 3.3.3.4 A-A-59992 Eyelet All 3.3.3.12 Figure 21, 4/ Lining, Pocket

All 3.3.3.2.1 A-A-52106

Fastener, Tape Hook

& Loop

All

3.3.6 A-A-55126

1/ All characteristics cited in end item document shall be tested.

2/ AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

3/ AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining 4/ The slide fastener’s metal composition, brass and stainless steel, and the eyelets brass shall be verified by X-ray Fluorescence (XRF), Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (EDS, EDX, EDXS or XEDS), Energy Dispersive X-ray Analysis (EDXA), or Energy Dispersive X-ray Microanalysis (EDXMA). One slide fastener and eyelet/washer shall be tested. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.3. Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the basic material shall be viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option C, with a light source simulating artificial daylight (illuminant D75), a color temperature of 7500°K (+ 200°K), and an illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles. The color and appearance shall be a good match to the standard sample.

4.4.4. Visual examination. Each finished jacket selected for visual examination shall be inspected for the defects cited under Tables VIII.

TABLE VIII. Classification of defects 1/

Defect Critical Major Minor

I. General

a. Any non-specified hole, scissors or knife cut, tear, mend, burn, or weakening defect, such as a smash, multiple float, loose slub, needle chew, abraded area, lint, spot, stain or weakening defect

b. Any portion of the cloth or leather stiffened, hardened, or scorched by any process of manufacturing 101

c. Any lining, facing, or interfacing pleated, short, tight, or twisted causing puckers or twist on any part of the jacket 201

d. Any elastic webbing strip causing puckers or twist on the outer side of the jacket 202

II. Metallic Components

a. Any metallic surface unclean or contains embedded foreign matter 203

b. Any malformed, corroded, fractured, broken, chipped, split, cut, dent, nick, burr, crack, sharp edge, sliver, scale or bent 102

c. Slide fastener: 2/

1. Not specified type, size, pull, or style; movement of the slider interfered with or elements of the chain that do not mesh or interlock together when zipped

2. Any portion of the jacket or slide fastener tape puckered, 204 twisted, or pleated at the slide fastener tape joining seam, when the slide fastener is open or closed

3. Slider does not close the slide fastener upwards 104

4. Thong omitted, assembled length less than 2-1/4 inches or more than 2-3/4 inches 205

5. Thong not securely knotted to the pull 3/ 206

6. Retainer portion is less than 1/2 inch or more than 3/4 inch from the bottom of the Jacket 207

d. Snap fastener, eyelet and washer:

1. Any mismatched component or any portion of the snap fastener assembly missing; dimensions not in conformance with figure 19

2. Any improperly clinched resulting in cutting of the leather 106

3. Snap fastener stud not aligned with the socket causing a noticeable bulge or twist to the inner pocket, when snapped together 4/

4. Snap fastener off-center by:

(a) 1/2 inch or less 208

(b) More than 1/2 inch 108

5. Any eyelet and washer or the snap fastener not black chemically finished, finish missing, or not uniformly finished.

6. One eyelet missing 209

7. Two or more eyelets missing 110

III. Leather

a. Leather not finished with a fine pebble print grain, leather does not have a semi bright finish, leather not soft or flexible 2

b. Fat wrinkles, loose, spongy, boardy, peeling, cracking, or flaky leather 3

c. Any grain cut, slaughter cut, cockle, open scar or scratch, brittle or bony area, or thin spot 111

d. Any healed scar or brand, open tick mark or fly bite, or excessive large hair cells 112

e. Flesh side not smooth 113

f. Any portion of the cloth or leather stiffened, hardened, or scorched by any process of manufacturing 4

g. Dye not does not penetrate through the flesh side to the underside of the hide 5

h. Leather dye bleeding through

IV. Knitted Cuffs and Waistband

a. Any run, dropped stitch, snag, pull, slubby yarn , barre, bow, cockles, loose course, miss-knit, skew 115

b. Lacking elasticity, too tight or loose 116

c. Wales in any cuff or waistband not in the vertical direction 6

d. Dimensions of cuff not in accordance with Figure 18 117

e. Elastic grinning through component 118

V. Shaded Parts

a. Any part shaded or any shade bar 119

b. Color of any component not as specified or not uniform 120

VI. Cleanness

a. Any unsightly slub, adhesive shade or size marking ticket adhesive mass, spot, or stain on the outer side of the jacket 121

b. Two or more thread ends not trimmed or two or more loose thread scraps not removed 210

c. Any shade or size marking ticket not removed or any shade or size identification marking stamping visible on the assembled jacket

d. Any metal fastening device or sewn on shade or size marking ticket 122

e. Any portion of the assembled jacket discolored, where the adhesive shade or size marking ticket was attached 123

VII. Components and Assembly

a. Any component not as specified or any defect of a component or defect of assembly, not herein classified 124

b. Any component, component part, or required operation omitted, or any operation improperly performed, not herein classified 125

c. Any component part not cut in accordance with the patterns, not herein classified 126

VIII. Seams and Stitching

a. Accuracy of seaming:

1. Any seam, hem, or attachment of any component twisted, puckered, pleated; any part of the jacket or component caught in an unrelated operation or stitching, any seam edge not properly forced out or contains any fold

2. Ends of stitching that are not caught in other seams or stitching:

(a) Any not securely backstitched 127

(b) Any secure but backstitched for a distance less than 1/2 inch or the backstitching is not overlapped on itself 213

3. Thread breaks:

(a) Any not securely overstitched 128

(b) Any secure but overstitched for a distance less than one-half inch 214

b. Gage of stitching5:

1. Any stitching irregular, unevenly gaged, or various stitching not uniform 5/ 215

c. Open seams: 6/

1. Outside of the jacket:

(a) Any 1/4 inch or less 216

(b) Any more than 1/4 inch but not more than one inch 129

(c) Any more than one inch 7

2. Inside of the jacket:

(a) Any 1 inch or less 217

(b) Any more than 1 inch 130

d. Raw edges: 7/

1. Outside of the jacket:

(a) Any more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 218

(b) Any more than 1/4 inch but not more than one inch 131

(c) Any more than one inch 8

2. Inside of the jacket:

(a) Any more than 1/4 inch but not more than one inch 219

(b) Any more than one inch 132

e. Run-offs, skipped, or broken stitches:

1. Joining seams - when resulting in an open seam use “Open

Seam” classification 133

2. Topstitching when not resulting in an open seam:

(a) Outside of the jacket:

(i) Any 1/2 inch or less 220

(ii) Any more than 1/2 inch 134

(b) Inside of the jacket:

(i) Any one inch or less 221

(ii) Any more than one inch 135

f. Seam and stitch type:

1. Not specified seam or stitch 136

2. Any looper thread visible on the outside of assembled jacket when stitch type 401 is used 222

g. Stitch tension: 8/

1. Any loose stitching or tight stitching, resulting in breaking of the stitches, when normal pull is applied 137

h. Stitches per inch: 9/

1. Stitches more or less than specified:

(a) Jacket (excluding label):

(i) One but no more than three 223

(ii) More than 3 138

IX Buttons

1. Any missing, loose, malformed, fractured, or broken 139

2. Not specified in size or style 1/ 140

3. Stitches more or less than specified:

(a) One but less than three 224

(b) Three or more

(c) Shank missing on one or more buttons

4. Any surface rough, miss-aligned, distorted or contains any nick, burr, sharp edge, or crack

X. Collar

a. Top collar or under collar twisted, or any collar edge curled 143

b. Any edge crooked, under collar edge exposed, or any corner not uniform in shape, collar does not conform to finished collar template

c. Off center

1. 3/8 inch or less 226

2. More than 3/8 inch 145

d. Pointed ends of collar uneven in length:

1. 3/8 inch or less 227

2. More than 3/8 inch

XI. Front Opening

a. Fronts uneven in length at the neck or at the bottom, when the slide fastener is closed:

1. More than 1/8 inch but not more than 3/8 inch 228

2. More than 3/8 inch 147

b. Edges of the opening overlapped more than 1/8 inch or open more than 1/8 inch, when the side fastener is closed. 148

c. Any facing short, tight, or twisted causing puckers or twist on the outer side of the fronts 229

d. Flap not on right side 149

XII. Patch pockets and flaps

a. Any pocket out of horizontal or vertical alignment by:

1. More than 1/8 inch but not more than 3/8 inch 230

2. More than 3/8 inch but not more than 1/2 inch 150

3. More than 1/2 inch 9

b. Lower side edges of the pockets not mitered

c. Any portion of the jacket, pocket, or flap puckered or pleated at the pocket or flap joining seam or at the pencil compartment, patch pocket and/or flap does not conform to its template

d. Pocket flap side edges are not even with the side edges of the pockets by more than 1/4 inch or corners of the pockets and flaps not securely tacked e.. Patch pocket or flap bulging, twisted, or distorted when secured.

XIII. Jacket and Lining Bellows

a. Any noticeable bulge in any outer folded edge or the back does not lie smoothly 233

b. Top end of any outer folded edge, at the shoulder, unequal distance by more than 1/4 inch for the jacket and 1/2 inch for the lining from any armhole seam

c. Lower end of any outer folded edge unequal distance by more than 1/4 inch for the jacket and 1/2 inch for the lining from any 154 side seam

XIV. Sleeves

a. Right sleeve in the left armhole or left sleeve in the right armhole or any sleeve, in its proper armhole, installed in a reverse position

b. Any pleats at any armhole or any tightness at any armhole seam causing puckers on any front or back 234

c. Any sleeve lapped on the top of any front or the back at any armhole or undersleeve overlapping any top sleeve at any back arm seam

XV. Label and Property Markings

a. Identification label:

1. Size missing, incorrect, or illegible 156

2. Other than size information incomplete, incorrect, or illegible 235

3. Misplaced, off center of the back by more than 1/2 inch, stitching omitted on one or more edges or appear on the exterior of the jacket

b. Property markings:

1. Missing, incorrect, incomplete, or illegible 11

2. Letters less than one inch in height or width 237

3. Perforation so closely spaced as to result in a tear in the leather or perforations cut any flap seam 157

4. Letters are off center by more than 1/2 inch 158

c. Barcode labels/markings

1. Bar code omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified.

2. Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item.

3. Bar code attachment causes damage to the item.

4. Bar code not readable by scanner.

5. Human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible.

XVI. Hanger loop

a. Ends not securely attached or not attached as specified 240

b. Less than 3 7/8 inches or more than 4 1/8 inches long or width less than 5/16 inch or more than 7/16 inch 241

c. Not stitched together along each edge or insecurely formed 242

d. Located more than 1 1/8 inches or less than 7/8 inch below the collar seam 243

e. Misplaced, off center of the back by more than 1/2 inch 244

XVII. Loop fastener tape

a. Loop fastener tape omitted.

b. Loop fastener tape sewn incorrectly. Not affixed as per pattern.

c. Not the correct color.

d. Loop fastener tape crooked. Not affixed properly.

1/ ASTM D3990 shall be used to aid in identifying defects when needed. Any defect that is not identified in Table VIII but is on a finished jacket and is cited under ASTM D3990 shall be classified as a defect. The defect classification of critical, major or minor shall be at the discretion of the government.

2/ The slide fastener shall be checked for proper function by opening and closing the slide fattener at least three times along its full length.

3/ With the slide fastener fully open, one end of the thong shall be grasped by one hand, and normal hand force shall be applied, causing the slider to move, closing the slide fastener along its entire length.

4/ The snap fastener shall be checked for proper function and attachment by snapping closed and unsnapping the snap fastener at least three times.

5/ The gage of stitching defect shall be classified only when the condition exists for more than 2 inches on any row of stitching.

6/ A seam shall be classified as open when one or more stitches joining a seam are broken, or when two or more continuous skipped stitches or run-offs occur. On double stitched seams, a seam shall be classified as open when either one or both sides of the seam contain any of the aforementioned for a single stitched seam.

7/ Any edge that should be turned under and is not, but is securely caught in the stitching, shall be classified as a raw edge. Any raw edge that is not securely caught in the stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

8/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension or gathering of the material. When puckering is evident, and is not caused by the gathering of the material, the stitching shall be inspected by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the stitching, by pulling taut to straighten out the seam. The gathering of the material shall be classified as an accuracy of seaming defect.

9/ The stitches per inch defect shall be classified only when the condition exists for more than 3 inches on any row of stitching.

4.4.5. Dimensional Examination- The slide fastener of each jacket to be measured shall be fully closed. The pocket flaps shall be fastened, and the snap fastener shall be snapped closed. The jacket shall be laid flat, without tension on a smooth, flat surface so that any creases and wrinkles shall not affect the measurement. The bellows shall be flat and in the closed position. The inside pocket measurements shall be taken with the jacket open. Refer to Figures 15 to 17 when taking measurements for A through Q. The jacket shall be measured as follows:

Half chest - Measurement shall be taken on a closed jacket across the front at the base of the armhole from folded edge to folded edge to seam line of gusset, not including gusset.

Half waist – Measurement shall be taken across the top edge of the half belt, from folded edge to folded edge.

Back Length – Measurement of center back length shall be taken down center from center back of the under collar seam to bottom of jacket at seam line to ribbing.

Sleeve Inseam - Measurement shall be taken from base of armhole seam, from center of the gusset, along underarm to bottom edge of leather at seam line to knitted wristlet.

Collar length - Measurement shall be taken along base of the collar at neckline from collar edge to collar edge, with collar in flat position.

Collar stand height - Measurement shall be taken at center back from top of collar stand to joining seam of collar.

Patch pocket, length - Measurement shall be taken at center of finished pocket from top edge to bottom edge.

Patch pocket, width -Measurement shall be taken at center of finished pocket from side edge to side edge.

I. Pocket flap, at center - Measurement shall be taken at center of finished pocket flap from top edge to bottom edge.

J. Pocket flap, length, at sides - Measurement shall be taken at each side of finished pocket flap from top edge to bottom edge.

K. Pocket flap, width - Measurement shall be taken at top of finished pocket flap from side edge to side edge.

L. Pencil pocket welt, width - Measurement shall be taken at center from top edge of welt to bottom welt seam.

M. Pencil pocket welt, length - Measurement shall be taken at center of welt from seam to seam.

N. Pencil pocket, depth - Measurement shall be taken from the welt opening to the bottom of the finished pocket.

O. Inside pocket welt, length - Measurement shall be taken from seam to seam.

P. Inside pocket welt, width - Measurement shall be taken top edge of welt to welt seam.

Q. Inside pocket, depth - Measurement shall be taken from welt opening to bottom of pocket.

4.4.5.1. Classification of defects for the dimensional examination of the jackets.

TABLE IX. Dimensional defects for finished jacket

Assembled Measurements

Defect

Major

Finished Jacket Any measurement deviating from the measurements specified in 3.6, Table IV and Table V, and applicable tolerances, shall be identified as a dimension defect.

Equal Length for Sleeve

The variation in length between the left and right sleeve inseams shall be identified as a dimensional defect when it exceeds 1/2 inch.

4.4.6 Toxicity test. When required (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals.