NCTRF PD 17-15 Trunks PFU.pdf

NCTRF PD 17-15

7 March 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TRUNKS, PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the trunks, physical fitness uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Navy.

1.2 Classification. The trunks will be available in the following types and sizes:

1.2.1 Types.

Type I – 6 inch inseam Type II – 8 inch inseam

1.2.2 Sizes. The trunks sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large

Note: the above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.2.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

INCH-POUND

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester A-A-52095 - Thread, Polyester, Texturized

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General use)

(Copies of these documents are available online from the procuring activity.)

2.3 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

DRAWINGS

02-NCTRF-15 - Logos, US Navy PT Program

(Copies of this drawing are available from the procuring activity)

2.3.1 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crock-meter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Accelerated AATCC 79 - Absorbency of Bleached Textiles AATCC 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After repeated home laundering AATCC 100 - Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials, Assessment of AATCC 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering AATCC 162 - Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

http://www.aatcc.org/

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)

ANSI/ISEA 107 - American National Standard for High Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear

(Application for copies shall be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1819 L St NW, Washington DC 20036 or www.ansi.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling Pendulum (Elmendorf- Type) Apparatus ASTM D1577 - Standard Test Methods for Linear Density of Textile Fibers ASTM D2149 - Standard Test Method for Determining the Antimicrobial

Activity of Immobilized Antimicrobial Agents under Dynamic Contact Conditions

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D3887 - Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics ASTM D4964 - Standard Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic

Fabrics ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6797 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant- Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com or from Taylor and Francis, 7625 Empire Drive, Florence, KY 41042.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence. Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

http://www.ansi.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The trunks shall be boxer style with a boxer brief knitted liner. The trunks shall have two rows of double needle stitching on the waistband. The trunks shall have double turned single needle vent at the bottom of each out seam. The trunks shall have two out seam hanging pockets with 1/4-inch top stitching. The bottom hem shall be a single needle rolled 1/4-inch hem. The trunks shall have an all elastic waistband with a draw-cord exiting at the inside center front via buttonhole (see Figure 5). The left lower leg shall have a reflective graphic logo with the word “NAVY”. The trunks shall have one inside hanging ID/key pocket. The liner shall have a 3/8-inch double needed cover stitched hem. The liner shall be stitched to the shell with the face side facing the wearer. The liner shall have a rectangular shaped gusset between the front and back liner crotch joining seams.

3.4 Basic materials.

3.4.1 Shell. The basic material shall be a plain weave 100% nylon consisting of 68 filament yarn spun on an air jet system. The warp yarn shall be a dull 70/1 denier yarn and the filling yarn shall be a dull 70/2 denier yarn. The material shall match the standard sample for Blue 3389 when tested in accordance with 4.6 (see 6.4). The material shall be dyed with chlorine retentive dyes to match the color of the standard sample material. The basic material shall be preshrunk and shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE I. Physical requirements for shell cloth

Characteristic Requirement

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 2.8 ± 0.3

Yarns per Inch (minimum)

Warp

Filling

Breaking Strength, pounds

(minimum)

Tearing Strength, pounds

(minimum)

6.0

7.0

Dimensional Stability, percent

(maximum)

After 5 launderings)

3.0

2.0

TABLE I. Physical requirements for shell cloth (continued)

Colorfastness (minimum)

Laundering (5 cycles)

Light (170 kilojoules or 40 hrs.)

Crocking (Dry/wet)

Perspiration (acid/alkaline)

Water – Chlorinated Pool

3-4 pH 5.5 to 8.5

3.4.2 Liner, ID/key pocket. The cloth for the liner, ID/key pocket of the trunks shall be 100% polyester micro denier crepe knit. The lining cloth shall be dyed with a chlorine retentive dye to produce a black color or match the basic cloth color. The lining cloth and ID/Key pocket shall have a hydro moisture management/wicking capability and antimicrobial treatment meeting the requirements stated in Table II. As an alternative a cloth that has a hydro moisture management/wicking capability and Smart Silver™ Technology antimicrobial treatment shall meet the requirements of ASTM D2149 as stated in Table II and may also be used (see 6.6). The lining cloth shall be preshrunk and shall conform to the requirements stated in Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE II. Physical requirements for liner, ID/key pocket cloth

Weight (oz./sq.yd.) 2.5 ± 0.5

Yarns per Inch

Wales

Courses

40 ± 3

50 ± 3

Bursting strength, pounds

(minimum)

Dimensional stability, percent

(maximum)

After 5 launderings

5.0

5.0

Colorfastness (minimum)

Laundering (5 cycles)

Crocking (wet/dry)

Water – Chlorinated Pool pH 5.5 to 8.5

Vertical Wicking 6 inches/30 minutes

Anti-microbial

Migratory

Initial

After 25 Launderings

Non-migratory

Initial

After 25 Launderings

Log 3 or better / 99.9% min.

Log 3 or better / 99.9% min.

Log 2 or better / 99.0% min.

Log 2 or better / 99.0% min.

3.4.3 Webbing, elastic. The knitted all elastic webbing for the trunks shall be a cotton, polyester or cotton/polyester blend with 22 ends, 30 gauge rubber with 120% (+ 5%) elongation and weigh between 1 to 1.25 oz./per linear yard and shall measure 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches in width. The elastic shall be machine washable and dryable and properly heat set and stabilized. The color shall be black or white and shall exhibit colorfastness or discoloration equal or better than the basic material, shell. Testing shall be in accordance to Table IX.

3.4.4 Draw-cord. The braid for the tubular draw-cord shall be cotton, polyester or polyester/cotton in a continuous solid construction and shall be 3/16 (± 1/32) inches in diameter. The braid shall be embedded in the elastic webbing for the waistband. The color shall match the basic material or be black and shall exhibit colorfastness equal to or better than the basic material, shell. Testing shall be in accordance to Table VIII.

3.4.5 Draw-cord alternate. As an alternate, the elastic for the waistband may contain an integrated draw cord and meet the color and characteristics stated in 3.4.4. Cut lengths shall be in accordance to Table III.

3.4.6 Reflective material. The reflective marking material for the graphic logo transfers shall be 3M

Scotchlite™ 8712 silver retro reflective film or equivalent (See 6.5). The marking material shall be applied by heat transfer method. See drawing 02-NCTRF-15 for “NAVY” lettering and font.

3.4.6.1 Testing of reflective materials. The reflective marking material for the graphic logo transfers shall be tested to ensure appropriate adhesion to the basic material used in the trunks. See 4.5.

Testing shall conform to the requirements in Table X. The markings shall not delaminate, crack or peel after the 50 launderings. The markings shall not stain the basic material. The marking shall meet colorfastness after laundering requirements in accordance to 4.4.2, Table IX.

3.4.7 Thread, shell. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be Type I or II, Tex 36-45, 2 ply of A-A-

50199 except colorfastness tests and requirements shall be as specified for basic material, shell.

The thread color shall match the shade of the basic shell material, shall have equal to or better colorfastness properties than the basic material, shell and shall be stabilized to prevent shrinkage.

The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments.

3.4.8 Thread, liner. The thread for all the seaming and stitching of the liner shall be 100% texturized polyester thread, Tex 18 conforming to the requirements within A-A-52095 except that the colorfastness tests and requirements shall be as specified for basic material, liner. The thread color shall match the shade of the basic material, liner and shall have equal to or better colorfastness properties. The thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments.

3.5 Visual shade matching. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance when tested in accordance with 4.6.

3.6 Labels. Each garment shall incorporate heat transfer or screen print labels as specified in 3.6.1.

Each garment shall contain a size label, an identification label and an instruction label. All garments shall have a Barcode hang tag. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and instruction label may be combined. The label shall be located inside of the liner on the center back (wearer’s) left panel below waistband not be visible to the outside of the trunks.

The labels shall not irritate the wearer. The label shall be legible for the life of the garment and show no signs of fading or delamination through 50 laundering cycles when laundered in accordance with the requirements in Table IX when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.6.1 Combination size/identification /care instruction label. The combination size/identification/instruction label shall be a tag less application conforming to MIL-DTL- 32075 Type III or IV applied to the inside of the liner on the center back (wearer’s) left panel below waistband and shall contain the following information:

3.6.2 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing.

The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials "UPC" shall appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so it is completely visible on the item when it is fo1ded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the item. This UPC code shall also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Outer shell. All joining seams shall be topstitched for strength. The bottom hems shall be overedged prior to hemming. The stitching for the leg hems shall finish 7/8 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg.

3.7.2 Liner. The crotch panel seams shall finish to the inside between the plies. The leg hems shall finish 7/8 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg.

3.7.3 Waistband. The finish stitching of the waistband shall be four (4) rows, 1 inch gauge double needle stitched (1/4-inch gauge) and accommodate the tunnel for the draw cord. The chain stitching on the waistband shall be secured by a single needle lock stitch, through all layers, catching all four (4) rows of chain stitching, back tacked at the beginning and end. The tunnel opening for the draw-cord shall be a horizontal buttonhole on the inside center of the waistband.

See Figure 5. The buttonhole for the draw-cord opening shall be a minimum of 42 stitches and the cut opening shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inches in length. The horizontal opening shall fall in the middle of the four (4) rows of chain stitching. The opening shall not cut through the waistband stitching.

3.7.4 Side pockets. The trunks shall have out seam pockets. See Figure 4. The pockets shall have a 6 (+

1/4) inch opening. The top and bottom of the openings shall be bar-tacked through all layers without catching liner and finished with 1/4-inch top stitching. The bar-tacks shall extend over out seam a minimum of 1-2 stitches, the topstitching shall not extend past the top and bottom bar-tacks. The pocket opening shall be positioned with the top bar-tack 3-1/4 (+ 1/4) inches from the

SIZE

NSN No.

CONTRACT NUMBER

TRUNKS, NAVY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

S H E LL: 100% NYLON

LINER: 100% POLYESTER

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

“CARE INSTRUCTIONS”

MACHINE WASH LUKEWARM (105oF), DELICATE CYCLE

WASH WITH LIKE COLORS

USE NON-CHLORINE BLEACH ONLY, WHEN NEEDED

TUMBLE DRY LOW HEAT

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS OR DRYER SHEETS

DO NOT IRON LOGOS OR DRY CLEAN

top folded edge of the waistband. The side pockets shall be constructed with the basic fabric as the bottom ply (against body) and the liner fabric as the top ply (against trunks). Front pocket lining material shall not be visible.

3.7.5 Bar-tacks. Bar-tacks (6) shall consist of a minimum of 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches, shall be 3/8 inches in length, and shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. A horizontal bar-tack shall be located at the top and bottom of each side pocket openings and at the top of each vented opening. The bar-tack at the crotch joining seam shall be located along the inseam where it meets the seat seam stitching and placed between the chain and overedge stitch of the safety stitch.

The bar-tack shall be horizontal and 1 inch long.

3.7.6 Buttonholes. The waistband shall have one (1) horizontal buttonhole opening for the draw cord to exit. See 3.6.3 and Figure 5. The buttonhole shall be located on the inside of the waistband at the center front positioned between the rows of topstitching. The buttonholes shall be a minimum of 42 stitches and finished inside cut length shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inches in length.

3.7.7 Vented opening. The finished slit opening shall be 2 (±1/4) inches length as measured from the finished hem to the top of vent opening. The top of the vent shall be bar-tacked at apex of vent opening across out seam through all layers without catching the liner. The slit vents shall be clean finished.

3.7.8 ID/key pocket. The trunks shall have an internal ID/key pocket adjacent to backside of the right out seam (as indicated on the patterns) and caught in the waistband stitching. The ID/key pocket shall finish approximately 2-1/4 (+1/4, -1/8) inches wide by 3-1/2 (+1/4,-1/8) inches long with a 1- 1/4 (± 1/4) inch top folded over to encase the pocket.

3.7.9 Bottom hem. The bottom hems shall be overedged prior to hemming. The stitching for the leg hems shall finish 1/4 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg.

3.8 Lettering for reflective heat transfer logo placement (Type I and II). The reflective heat transfer markings of the “NAVY” logos shall be placed on the lower left leg in accordance with placement markings on the patterns. The “NAVY” logo shall be produced to match the dimensions in Drawing 02-NCTRF-15 and placed in accordance with Table IV. See Figure 3.

TABLE IV. Lettering placement (inches)

3.9 Figures. Figures 1 through 5 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.10 Patterns. Standard patterns, which show size, directional lines, placement marks, and notches for assembly, except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government. The Government pattern shall not be altered in any way and shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns.

Minor modifications are permitted to the contractor’s working pattern where necessary when using automatic equipment or production processes. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this document. The Government patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams without trimming.

3.10.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the trunks shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts listed in Table V.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts

SIZES A-1

B-1

X-Small 2-1/4 2-5/8

Small 2-1/4 2-3/4

Medium 2-1/4 2-7/8

Large 2-1/4 3

X-Large 2-1/4 3-1/8

XX-

Large

2-1/4 3-1/4

XXX-

Large

2-1/4 3-3/8

Tolerance +1/2 +1/2

Material and Pattern Part Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic Material

BACK TYPE I PD1715-BACK TYPE I 2

BACK TYPE II PD1715-BACK TYPE II 2

FRONT TYPE I PD1715-FRONT TYPE I 2

FRONT TYPE II PD1715-FRONT TYPE II 2

POCKET BAG BEARER PD1715-PKT BG BEARER 2

Liner Material

BACK LINER PD1715-BACK LINER 2

FRONT LINER PD1715-FRONT LINER 2

CROTCH GUSSET PD1715-CROTCH GUSSET 1

POCKET BAG FACING PD1715- PKT BG FACING 2

KEY POCKET PD1715-KEY POCKET 1

3.11 Stitches and seams. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. Thread ends shall be secured by a minimum of 1/2-inch backstitched or 1/2-inch overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Seaming repairs for shells and liners shall use the respective specified thread from 3.4.7 and 3.4.8. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/8-inch minimum and all loose thread shall be removed. Raw edges are not acceptable anywhere on the garment. All 301 stitching shall be 10-12 stitches per inch. For double needle stitching (stitch type 401 and 602) the stitches per inch shall be 8-10 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching (stitch type 503, 504 and 516), the stitches per inch shall be a minimum of 8-12. (Bar-tacks shall consist of a minimum of 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches and be 3/8-inch in length).

Table VI. Stitch and seam types

Operation Stitch Type Seam Type

Basic Shell Material

Front rise, back rise 516 SSa-2

Out seams and inseam 516 SSa-2

Leg hem and vent 301 EFb-1

Buttonhole for draw-cord Buttonhole

Vent reinforcement, pocket openings, crotch joining seam

Bar-tack

Side pockets finish 301 SSa-1

Liner

Liner, key pocket, shell & elastic attachment

503, 504 or 602 EFd-1

Liner crotch, gusset and out seams 516 SSa-2

Liner leg opening 602 EFt-2

Key pocket 516 SSa-1

Key pocket hem 301 EFa-1

Waistband Assembly

Finish waistband 401 Similar to EFq-4

3.12 Shade and size marking. The component parts may be marked or ticketed to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the garment production. Corrosive metal fastening devices, sewn on shade tickets, and adhesive type tickets whose adhesive causes discoloration or adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets shall not be used. All shade and manufacturing tickets shall be removed on the completed item.

3.13 Finished measurements. The trunks shell and liner shall conform to the finished measurements (given in inches) in Table VII.

TABLE VII. Finished measurements, shell and liner (inches)

Size

Trunks Type I

Shell Liner

A B C D E F G H I J

Waist

Relaxed

Waist

Extended

Out

Seam

Inseam Hip Leg

Opening

Out seam

Leg

Opening Relaxed

Hip Rise total

X-Small 12-1/2 18-3/4 16-5/8 6 21-3/4 11-3/4 11-7/8 8-3/4 20-1/4 20-3/4

Small 13-3/4 20 17-1/8 6-1/8 23 12-1/2 12-1/4 9-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2

Medium 15 21-1/4 17-5/8 6-1/4 24-1/4 13-1/4 12-5/8 10-1/4 22-3/4 22-1/4

Large 16-1/4 22-1/2 18-1/8 6-3/8 25-1/2 14 13 11 24 23

X-Large 17-3/4 24 18-5/8 6-1/2 27 14-7/8 13-3/8 11-7/8 25-1/2 23-3/4

XX-Large 19-1/4 25-1/2 19-1/8 6-5/8 28-1/2 15-3/4 13-3/4 12-3/4 27 24-1/2

XXX-Large 20-3/4 27 19-5/8 6-3/4 30 16-5/8 14-1/8 13-5/8 28-1/2 25-1/4

Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/2 ±1/2 ± 1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

Size

Trunks Type II

Shell Liner

A B C D E F G H I J

Waist Relaxed

Waist Extended

Out Seam

Inseam Hip Leg Opening

Out seam

Leg Opening

Relaxed

Hip Rise total

X-Small 12-1/2 18-3/4 18-1/4 7-5/8 21-3/4 10-3/4 11-7/8 8-3/4 20-1/4 20-3/4

Small 13-3/4 20 18-3/4 7-3/4 23 11-1/2 12-1/4 9-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2

Medium 15 21-1/4 19-1/4 7-7/8 24-1/4 12-1/4 12-5/8 10-1/4 22-3/4 22-1/4

Large 16-1/4 22-1/2 19-3/4 8 25-1/2 13 13 11 24 23

X-Large 17-3/4 24 20-1/4 8-1/8 27 13-7/8 13-3/8 11-7/8 25-1/2 23-3/4

XX-Large 19-1/4 25-1/2 20-3/4 8-1/4 28-1/2 14-3/4 13-3/4 12-3/4 27 24-1/2

XXX-Large 20-3/4 27 21-1/4 8-3/8 30 15-5/8 14-1/8 13-5/8 28-1/2 25-1/4

Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/2 ±1/2 ± 1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

3.13.1 Method of inspection. The measurements shall be taken with Trunks laid flat but not stretched.

Refer to Figures for measuring point.

Shell

(A) Waist relaxed. Measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge at top of waist band (See Figure 1).

(B) Waist stretched. Measurement taken with the waistband elastic fully extended from folded edge to folded edge at top of waist band (See Figure 1).

(C) Out seam: Measurement taken from top of waistband to bottom hem (See Figure 1).

(D) Inseam. Measurement taken from crotch seam down inseam to bottom hem (See Figure 1).

(E) Hip. Measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge, 3 inches up from crotch seam (See

Figure 1).

(F) Leg opening. Measurement taken from folded edge to bottom of vent (See Figure 1).

Liner

(G) Out seam. Measurement taken from bottom of inside waistband to bottom hem (See Figure 2).

(H) Leg opening relaxed. Measurement taken at hem from folded edge to folded (See Figure 2).

(I) Hip. Measurement taken across the front from folded edge to folded edge at crotch/gusset joint seam (See Figure 2).

(J) Rise total. Measurement taken from center front waistband seam to front gusset seam, gusset width, and center back waistband seam to back gusset seam. Add dimensions for total rise measurement. There is no figure for K dimension.

3.14 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.2).

3.15 Workmanship. Each finished trunks shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. Each finished trunks shall be examined prior to folding for packaging and shall be free from all defects as specified in Table VIII which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. First article, submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for design, configuration in Tables V, VI and VII overall workmanship. The first article shall also include the finished measurements in Table VII, examination for defects in Table VIII, and testing in Tables IX and X, 4.4.3 and 4.4.4. The presence of excessive defects, as defined in the contract (see 6.2) or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include shade and appearance of all components, finished measurements in Table VII, examination for defects in Table VIII and testing in Tables IX and X, 4.4.3 and 4.4.4. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 End item visual examination. Each trunk shall be subjected to visual examination. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table VIII, which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the trunks. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VIII. Visual Examination defects

Examination Defect Classification

Major Minor

Material Defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub, cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, distorted, tight, twisted, or hole.

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar.

Shaded Part Variation in shade within an outside part. 1/

Any part required to be cut from one piece on material shaded. 1/

Thread Thread color not as specified. 105

This section intentionally left blank

TABLE VIII. Visual examination defects – Continued

Major Minor

Cleanliness Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment.

Thread ends not trimmed to a minimum of 1/8- inch throughout garment, any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable.

Objective odor.

NAVY lettering

“NAVY” logos missing or illegible, not in accordance to the pattern location, exceeding dimensional tolerances, not in correct style or not clearly identifiable.

Heat transfer color not as specified, consistent, peeling, cracking, incomplete, lettering edges not clearly defined or not aligned parallel to bottom of yoke.

Platen marks around front or back logo extending more than 1/4-inch from edge of logo.

Draw-cord Any draw-cord caught in tunnel or stitching restricting use of draw-cord.

Any draw-cord omitted.

Any draw-cord insufficient in length.

Labels Missing, illegible, or incorrect.

Incorrectly placed or attached.

Letters misplaced, smeared, wrinkled, not cleanly or neatly applied.

Accuracy of seaming Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered.

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching. 3/

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch.

Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or back-tacked less than 1/2-inch.

Gauge of stitching uneven or not as specified.

TABLE VIII. Visual examination defects – Continued

Major Minor

Open seams 3/ More than 1/8-inch up to 1/4-inch.

More than 1/4-inch.

Seams and stitching Not specified seam or stitch type.

Missing, broken or skipped stitches. 3/

Stitch Tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inch

- more than 2-inch

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching).

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches. 3/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- one (1) stitch

- two (2) or more stitches

More than maximum specified.

Repairs More than five (5) repairs on any one item. 3/

More than one (1) but less than five (5) on any one item

Inseam and outseam Inseam and outseam lengths varying by more than

1/4- inch. 2/

Bar-tacks Bar-tack omitted.

Any bar-tack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

- more than two (2)

- less than two (2)

Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken

Length or width not as specified.

Labels/Tags, UPC/HRI codes

Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner.

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible.

Not attached to location specified.

Causes damage to the garment.

Tagless label visible on outside of garment.

Packaging Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order.

1/ Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of three feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

2/ Evenness can be determined by comparing measurements or companion parts OR by aligning parts and measuring the difference in lengths as described below. When evenness defects are found, the uniform shall be laid flat on a measuring surface and the difference in lengths recorded.

- Inseam. Shall be aligned with inseam along the top edge, starting from the center of the crotch seam along the inseam down to the trouser hem edge. The aligned trouser legs shall be inspected for evenness of the trouser legs.

- Outseam. Shall be aligned by folding trousers in half width wise following the permanent press crease of the legs and aligning the top of the waistband. The aligned trouser legs shall be inspected for evenness of trouser length, and placement of companion knee patches and cargo pockets. The folded trouser shall be turned vertically to enable alignment of the bottom opening widths for comparison.

- Inseam/Outseam Length. While measuring inseam, the uniformity in length between inseam and outseam shall be inspected for evenness.

3/ One of more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam.

On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open.

Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

4.4.2 Component testing. The components shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table X.

The basic cloth physical requirements as specified in Table I shall be verified by the test methods specified below in Table IX.

TABLE IX. Component tests

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Basic Cloth- Shell

Weight 3.4.1 ASTM D3776, Option C

Yarns per inch

Warp

Filling

3.4.1 ASTM D3775

Breaking strength

Warp

Filling

3.4.1 ASTM D5034

Tearing strength

Warp

3.4.1 ASTM D1424

TABLE IX. Component tests – Continued

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Basic Cloth-Continued

Dimensional stability

After 5 launderings

3.4.1

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 1/

Colorfastness:

Laundering (5 cycles)

Light (170 kilojoules or 40 hrs.)

Crocking (Dry/wet)

Water – chlorinated pool

3.4.1

AATCC 61 Test 2A 2/

AATCC 16.2 or 16.3 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15 2/

AATCC 162 3/

pH 3.4.1 AATCC 81

Visual shade matching 3.4.1 4.6

Finish 3.4.1 5/

Liner, ID/Key pocket cloth

Weight 3.4.2 ASTM D3776, Option C

Yarns per inch

Wales

Courses

3.4.2 ASTM D3887

Linear density 3.4.2 ASTM D1577

Bursting strength 3.4.2 ASTM D3787 or ASTM

D6797

Dimensional stability

After 5 launderings

3.4.2

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 1/

Colorfastness:

Laundering (5 cycles)

Crocking

Perspiration

Water – chlorinated pool

AATCC 61, Test 2A 2/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15 2/

AATCC 162 3/

pH 3.4.2 AATCC 81

Vertical wicking 3.4.2 AATCC 197, Option B

Finish 3.4.2 ASTM D 2149 5/

Anti-microbial

Migratory

Initial

After 25 launderings

Non-migratory

Initial

After 25 launderings

AATCC 100, ASTM E2149

and AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii

TABLE IX. Component tests – Continued

1/ The samples shall be tumble dried on a permanent press cycle with a medium heat setting. The samples shall be evaluated after five cycles.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Only one specimen per sample unit is required for colorfastness to light and rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale 5/ The finished cloth shall exhibit no dermatological or toxic effects to the users. The supplier is responsible for certification that the finished product is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provide sufficient toxicity data to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact.

6/ Using tensile testing machine (in accordance with ASTM D5034) at 2 inches/minute, either pull-up cord on stationary engaged cord-lock or vice-versa.

4.4.4 End item testing (all types). The finished trunks shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IX and X. The methods of testing specified in Table X shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Webbing, elastic Weight

Width

Elongation

Colorfastness/Discoloration tests: same tests as specified for basic material shell

3.4.3

ASTM D3776

ASTM D3774

ASTM D4964

Same test methods as specified for basic material shell

Draw-cord

Width/diameter

Fiber identification

Weight (oz./lin.yd.)

Color

Colorfastness tests: same tests as specified for basic material shell

3.4.4

3.4.4

Visual/micrometer 6/

AATCC 20 or ASTM D276

ASTM D3776 Option D

Visual

Same test methods as specified for basic material shell

Thread

Color

Colorfastness tests: same tests as specified for basic material shell and liner

3.4.7 and 3.4.8

Visual

Same test methods as specified for basic material shell and liner

Reflective materials

Dimensional stability

After 50 launderings

Colorfastness after laundering

3.4.6.1

3.4.6.1

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii AATCC 61, Test 3A with a minimum 3 rating 3/

Label

Dimensional stability

After 50 launderings

3.6

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii unit shall be one (1) trunks for all physical and chemical tests. The sample size shall be five

(5) trunks. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE X. End item testing (all types)

Paragraph

Test Method

Reflective Logo material 3.4.6 and 3.4.6.1 4.5 and 4.5.1, 1/

Toxicity 3.14 4.7

1/ First Article only

4.5 Reflective marking material adhesion. The reflective marking material for the logos shall be tested to ensure appropriate adhesion to the basic material used in the trunks. The material shall be tested in accordance to 4.4.2, Table IX.

4.5.1 Reflectivity of marking material. Reflective logos shall be certified to ANSI 107-2010 Level 2.

4.6 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloth and components shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight and have a correlated color temperature of 7500 +/- 200 K with illumination of 100 +/- 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A lamplight at 2856 +/- 200 K.

4.7 Toxicity test. When required, an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3.1) If the requirement (see 3.14) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity may not be required.

5 PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6 NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

6.1 Intended use. The trunks are for wear by military personnel in the United States Navy as part of a physical fitness uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document

b. Types and sizes required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2)

d. When the first article sample is required (see 3.1 and 4.2)

e. Toxicity requirements (see 3.13 and 4.7)

f. Conformance inspection quality acceptance limits (see 4.3)

g. Packaging and packing requirements (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Source of Government documents. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth and/or Navy buttons, etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile website for their Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form, http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx, Choose Pages > Spec Request. Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.5 Reflective source of supply.

Safe Reflections Inc.

3220 Granada Ave N. Suite 100 St. Paul, MN 55128-3550

6.6 Lining material source of supply.

Deer Creek Fabrics, Inc.

509 Glennbrook Road Stamford, CT 06906

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing.

Physical Fitness Nylon Trunks

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Navy-NU Navy-NU

DLA-CT

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

FIGURE 1. Trunks, Navy Physical Fitness Uniform, Front

FIGURE 2. Trunks, Navy Physical Fitness Uniform, Liner

Placement of Lettering (in inches):

(A-1) 2-1/4 (± 1/2)

(B-1) See 3.7.

FIGURE 3. Trunks, Navy, Physical Fitness Uniform, “NAVY” Lettering

FIGURE 4. Trunks, Navy, Physical Fitness Uniform, Side

FIGURE 5. Trunks, Navy, Physical Fitness Uniform, Inner Buttonhole/Draw-cord Detail