DRAFT MIL-DTL-23486C w_AMD 2 2024.10.09.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 9 October 2024, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8315-2025-001)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8315

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-23486C(MC)

w/AMENDMENT 2

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-23486C(MC)

w/AMENDMENT 1

17 October 2019

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COLLAR, COAT, POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE, BLUE

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for the blue, stand-up coat collar made of polyester/wool gabardine.

1.2 Classification. The collars are of the following lengths and heights, as specified (see 6.2). Applicable coat sizes for the specific collar lengths and heights are listed in 3.9 and 6.6.

1.2.1 Schedule of sizes. Collars are of the following lengths and heights:

1.2.1.1 Collar lengths (inches).

12 13-3/4 15-1/2 16-3/4 18

12-1/2 14 15-3/4 17 18-1/2

13 14-1/2 16 17-1/4 19

13-1/4 15 16-1/4 17-1/2

13-1/2 15-1/4 16-1/2 17-3/4

1.2.1.2 Collar heights (inches).

1-3/4 2

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil w/AMENDMENT 2

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

DELETED

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

DELETED

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

THE INSTITUTE OF HERALDRY (TIOH)

U.S. ARMY STANDARD METAL FINISH CHIP SET

(Copies of the chip set are available from The Institute of Heraldry, 9325 Gunston Road, Room S-113, Fort Belvoir, VA 22060-5579, or by emailing usarmy.belvoir.hqda.mbx.tioh-webmaster@mail.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC TM20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning, Perchloroethylene

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at www.asq.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ mailto:usarmy.belvoir.hqda.mbx.tioh-webmaster@mail.mil http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the collar and the binding for the upper edge of the collar interlining shall be a 6.8-ounce per square yard (oz/yd2) cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, dark blue shade 2312, conforming to MIL-DTL-10176, type II, class 12 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the collar and for the collar eyelet covers shall be an acetate lining material, twill or satin (alternate) weave, conforming to the requirements specified in table I when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

http://www.astm.org/

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE I. Lining requirements.

Characteristic Twill requirement Satin requirement

Shade Good match to basic material

Fiber identification Acetate

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp 120 288

Filling 68 68

Weight (minimum) 3.8 oz/yd2 4.9 oz/yd2

Breaking strength (minimum)

Dry: Warp 74 pounds 83 pounds

Dry: Filling 49 pounds 117 pounds

Wet: Warp 54 pounds 54 pounds

Wet: Filling 34 pounds 77 pounds

Colorfastness to perspiration

(minimum) (see 6.4)

Color change 5 5

Staining on cotton 3.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to drycleaning

(minimum) (see 6.4)

Color change 4.5 5

Staining on cotton 4.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to crocking

(minimum) (see 6.4)

4.5 4.5

Dimensional stability to drycleaning, percent (maximum)

Individual sample unit ±3.5 ±3.5

Lot average ±3.0 ±3.0

3.3.3 Collar padding. The material for padding the collar shall be a polyester, needle punched non-woven material conforming to the requirements specified in table II when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE II. Collar padding requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber identification 100% polyester

Construction Needle punched non-woven

Weight 4.2 to 5.0 oz/yd2

3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the interlining of the collar shall be a 2-ply cotton buckram laminated with a starch finish and natural in color conforming to A-A-59992, type III, class 7 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

3.3.5 Binding for lower edge of collar interlining and collar eyelet reinforcement pieces. The material for binding the lower edge of the collar interlining, and for the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces, shall be a black polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The requirement for seam efficiency in A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.3.6 Scarlet piping. The material used for piping on the upper and lower edges of the collar shall be a wool broadcloth, scarlet shade 2501, conforming to MIL-C-29405, type I when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.7 Collar closure hook and eye. A hook and eye shall be furnished with each collar but shall not be sewn to the collar. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall conform to the requirements of figure 1 and table III when tested as specified in 4.4.1 and 4.4.1.1. The hook and eye shall be placed in either a paper envelope or polyethylene bag, which shall be attached to the collar with string tied through the collar eyelet. As an alternate, a plastic barb fastener may be used to attach the envelope or bag to the collar. The fastener shall not cause any damage to the collar.

TABLE III. Collar closure hook and eye requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Material Cartridge brass 70/30 (UNS alloy C27000)

Design figure 1

Dimensions figure 1

Color/finish TIOH chip #21, dull flat black

Coating type Lacquer, clear, commercial grade

Coating application Continuous, level, and adherent

Completely coating the hook and eye

Free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions

Coating tackiness No tackiness

Openings Completely open, free of any lacquer or black finish

Edges and surfaces Clean and smooth

Free from burrs and tool marks

No sharp edges or roughness

3.3.8 Thread. The threads used in the construction of the collar shall conform to the requirements of the thread documents cited in table IV when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Threads shall match the shade requirement specified in table IV.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE IV. Thread requirements.

Use

(seam type) Description Document

Ticket no.

(tex) Ply Shade

Seaming

(301)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.1.1 and 6.5)

Raise, edge & topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.1.1 and 6.5)

Eyelets Nylon, twisted, soft finish

A-A-59826, type I, class A

Government letter size B (45-46)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.1.1 and 6.5)

Felling Nylon, tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish

A-A-59826, type VI

Government letter size O (24)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.1.1 and 6.5)

Tacking

(hand)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) or 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.1.1 and 6.5) 70 (31-35) 2

Basting Commercial grade cotton, cotton-covered polyester core, nylon or monofilament synthetic

White or clear

3.3.8.1 Colorfastness. All threads, except thread used for basting, shall show a colorfastness or staining grade to light, perspiration, and drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.9 Labels.

3.3.9.1 Combination identification and size label. The combination identification and size label shall be made of cardboard conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The cardboard tag shall be attached to the collar with a plastic barb, or as an alternate, may be tied with string through an eyelet. The fastener shall not cause any damage to the collar. The label shall be legibly printed with the following information:

COLLAR, COAT, POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE, BLUE

NSN: 8315-01-280-0160 (EXAMPLE)

SIZE: 16-3/4 (EXAMPLE)

FIBER CONTENT: POLYESTER/WOOL (EXAMPLE)

CONTRACT NO. SPO-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

3.3.9.1.1 Alternate combination identification and size label. As an alternate, when the collar is placed in a plastic bag (see 6.2), the combination identification and size label may be a pressure sensitive label conforming to the requirements of MIL-DTL-32075, type VII when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The label shall be attached to the outside of the plastic bag. The label inscription shall conform to the inscription specified in 3.3.9.1.

3.3.9.2 Bar code label. Each collar shall be individually barcoded with a paper label/tag conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The tag shall be attached to the item by a fastener. The barcoding element shall be a 13-digit National Stock Number (NSN) and the appropriate 12-digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned to the NSN by the government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified herein. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

3.4 Design. The collar shall be the United States Marine Corps stand-up design, with the bottom and top edges piped with scarlet broadcloth, as specified in figure 2. The hook and eye are not sewn to the collar (see 3.3.7), and the collar ends are unfinished.

3.5 Figures. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern. The collar closure hook and eye (see 3.3.7) shall conform to the requirements specified in figure 1, and the collar construction shall conform to the requirements specified in figure 2.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Standard patterns show size and directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. When using automatic equipment, minor modifications are also permitted on the working patterns provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this document or those governed by the standard pattern.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the number of parts specified in table V. Requirements for cutting component parts that are not included in table V are included in 3.8.

TABLE V. Pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Cut parts

Basic material

(3.3.1) Collar outer ply 1

Lining

(3.3.2)

Collar lining 1

Collar eyelet cover lining 2

Collar interlining

(3.3.4) Collar interlining 1

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of

ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of the operation, any one of the specified methods may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Unless otherwise specified in 3.8, joined components shall lie smooth and flat. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching. The use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable provided the basting thread does not show on the outside of the finished item.

3.7.1.1 Thread sizes for stitches, seams, and stitching. The thread sizes used for the stitch type and seam type requirements of 3.8 shall be in accordance with the requirements listed in table IV.

3.7.1.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in 3.8.

3.7.1.3 Thread uniformity, thread breaks, and ends of seams. The shade of the thread visible on the outside of the collar shall be consistent: multiple shades of thread on the outside of the item shall not be allowed. The length of backstitching for an end of stitching produced with 301 stitch type that is not caught in another line of stitching shall be not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. Following the exact sequence of operations as specified is not required provided the finished collars meet the finished form, fit, and function requirements as those produced by following the sequence of operations as specified in table VI (see page 18). Any additional underpressing to facilitate manufacturing is permissible.

3.9 Finished dimensions. The finished collars shall conform to the measurements in table VII as defined in table VIII. The coat size designated for each collar height and length is included in the table for information only.

TABLE VII. Finished measurements (inches).

Coat size Man’s: Extra short and short lengths

Woman’s: All lengths

Man’s: Regular, long, and extra long lengths

Woman’s: Not applicable

Man’s Woman’s Collar height (A) Collar length (B) Collar height (A) Collar length (B)

- X0 1-3/4 13 - -

- 2 1-3/4 13-1/4 - -

- 4 1-3/4 13-1/2 - -

- 6 1-3/4 13-3/4 - -

- 8 1-3/4 14 - -

30 10 1-3/4 14-1/2 2 14-1/2

32 12 1-3/4 15 2 15

33 - 1-3/4 15-1/4 2 15-1/4

34 14 1-3/4 15-1/2 2 15-1/2

35 - 1-3/4 15-3/4 2 15-3/4

36 16 1-3/4 16 2 16

37 - 1-3/4 16-1/4 2 16-1/4

38 18 1-3/4 16-1/2 2 16-1/2

39 - 1-3/4 16-3/4 2 16-3/4

40 - 1-3/4 17 2 17

41 - 1-3/4 17-1/4 2 17-1/4

42 - 1-3/4 17-1/2 2 17-1/2

43 - 1-3/4 17-3/4 2 17-3/4

44 - 1-3/4 18 2 18

46 - 1-3/4 18-1/2 2 18-1/2

48 - 1-3/4 19 2 19

Tolerance ±1/8 ±1/4 ±1/8 ±1/4

TABLE VIII. Methods of measure.

Letter Measurement Method

A Collar height From folded edge of piping on top edge of collar to folded edge of piping on bottom edge of collar.

B Collar length From end to end at the center of the collar along the length.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

3.10 Workmanship. The finished collars shall conform to the quality of product established by this document.

Defects shall not exceed the established Acceptable Quality Levels (AQLs) (see 6.2) and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, in accordance with 3.3.1, shall be examined in accordance with

4.4.1 through 4.4.4 for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional requirements, and testing as specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), first article samples shall be provided. The sample size shall be as specified (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one finished collar. The lot size shall be expressed in units of collars. The presence of defects exceeding specified

AQLs (see 6.2) or failure of any testing (see 6.2), shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests as specified in 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), sampling shall be in accordance with table IX.

TABLE IX. Material sampling.

Lot size Sample size (sample unit)

800 or less 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

The unit for expressing lot size and sample unit shall be in accordance with the applicable referenced document and table X.

TABLE X. Component sampling.

Component Lot size expressed as Sample unit for testing

Lining yards 3 yards full width

Collar padding yards 1/4 yard full width

Collar closure hook and eye 100 each 2 each hook and eye

The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any examination or test requirements specified in this document (see 6.2).

4.3.2 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The sample shall be one finished collar. The lot size shall be expressed in units of collars. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified

(see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.4 Inspection methods.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

4.4.1 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests specified in tables XI through XIV, unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE XI. Component and material verification.

Material Requirement Verification

Basic material 3.3.1 MIL-DTL-10176

Lining 3.3.2 As listed in table XII

Collar padding 3.3.3 As listed in table XIII

Collar interlining 3.3.4 A-A-59992

Binding for lower edge of collar interlining and collar eyelet reinforcement pieces

3.3.5 A-A-52106, excluding seam

efficiency

Scarlet piping 3.3.6 MIL-C-29405

Collar closure hook and eye 3.3.7 As listed in table XIV and

4.4.1.1

Threads 3.3.8 Per specific thread specification listed in table IV

Thread, shade 3.3.8 Visual 1/

Thread, colorfastness

(black threads only)

3.3.8.1 Per specific thread specification

listed in table IV

Label 3.3.9.1, 3.3.9.1.1, 3.3.9.2 MIL-DTL-32075

NOTE:

1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XII. Lining verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification

Shade 3.3.2 Visual 1/

Fiber identification 3.3.2 AATCC TM20A

Yarns per inch: Warp and filling 3.3.2 ASTM D3775

Weight 3.3.2 ASTM D3776/D3776M

Breaking strength 3.3.2 ASTM D5034

Dry: Warp and filling

Wet: Warp and filling

Colorfastness to perspiration 3.3.2 AATCC TM15

Color change

Staining on cotton

Staining on wool

Colorfastness to drycleaning 3.3.2 AATCC TM132

Color change

Staining on cotton

Staining on wool

Colorfastness to crocking 3.3.2 AATCC TM8

Dimensional stability to dry cleaning 3.3.2 AATCC TM158

TABLE XIII. Collar padding verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification

Fiber identification 3.3.3 AATCC 20A

Construction 3.3.3 Visual 1/

Weight 3.3.3 ASTM D3776/D3776M, option C

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XIV. Collar closure hook and eye verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification 1/

Material 3.3.7 Standard commercial

Design 3.3.7 Visual

Dimensions 3.3.7 Visual

Color/finish 3.3.7 Visual

Coating type 3.3.7 Visual

Coating application 3.3.7 Visual

Coating tackiness 3.3.7 4.4.1.1

Openings 3.3.7 Visual

Edges and surfaces 3.3.7 Visual

4.4.1.1 Tackiness of collar closure hook and eye. The collar closure hook and eye shall be tested for tackiness using the following process: At room temperature (60 to 80 °F), press a piece of commercial tissue paper against the lacquered surface of a hook and eye for 30 seconds using the thumb and two fingers to exert pressure. After

30 seconds, remove the paper from the surface. Any evidence of tissue adhering to the surface shall be scored as a failure.

4.4.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components which contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.4.3, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished collar shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.4.3.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The collars shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking, and the defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in table XV. The inspection conditions and the AQLs shall be as specified (see 6.2).

4.4.3.1 Classification of defects. All defects shall be classified as indicated in table XV.

TABLE XV. Defects.

Defect Classification

Major Minor

I. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND DAMAGES

a. Any hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, shade marking, or open place:

1. On outside 101

2. On inside (longest dimension in any direction)

(a) Up to 1/4 inch inclusive 301

(b) More than 1/4 inch 201

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XV. Defects – Continued.

Defect

b. Loose yarn, misweave, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, or woven in waste: more than 1/4 inch (largest dimension in any direction) on outside

c. Permanent fold, pleat, or crease in cloth (when caught in seaming or stitching) on outside

d. Visible needle hole(s), presence of broken threads from stitching, or needle chew:

1. On outside:

(a) Up to 1/4 inch inclusive 203

(b) More than 1/4 inch 103

2. On inside, more than 1/2 inch 204

e. Knot or slub on outside (NOTE: only knots and slubs that exceed the limits specified in the material specification shall be scored as defects in evaluating quality of the collar)

II. SHADED PARTS

a. Binding (basic material) on upper edge of collar badly shaded, affecting appearance

b. Scarlet piping on top and bottom edges of collar not matching each other in shade, affecting appearance

c. Eyelet covers not matching each other in shade 302

III. CLEANNESS

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable:

1. On outside 104

2. On inside 303

b. Thread ends not trimmed throughout collar, or one or more bastings not removed, or two or more shade tickets not removed

c. Any residue of synthetic thread (when used) not brushed off or removed 305

IV. COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any component part or required operation omitted or improperly performed

(not herein classified)

b. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not herein classified) 120

V. CUTTING

a. Any component part of basic material not cut in accordance with the patterns, or not cut in accordance with specified requirements

b. Scarlet piping cut on bias 208

c. Any non-basic material component part not cut in accordance with the patterns, or not cut in accordance with specified requirements

VI. PRESSING

a. Burned, scorched, or area with shine or gloss 121

b. Pressing omitted or collar not pressed smooth and flat, affecting appearance 210

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XV. Defects – Continued.

Defect

VII. SEAMS AND STITCHING

a. Accuracy of seaming:

1. Any seam twisted, gathered, puckered, or pleated 211

2. Part of collar caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 122

3. Unsightly hand felling or blindstitching exposed on outside of collar affecting appearance

4. End of any stitching (when not caught in other seams or stitching) not backtacked or backstitched as required

5. Wrong shade of thread or two shades of thread used on outside of collar, affecting appearance

b. Gage of stitching (edge, raise, and topstitching):

1. Irregular; unevenly gaged, non-uniform stitching which affects appearance 213

2. Beyond range of width specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified

c. Open seams:

(a) Up to 1/4 inch inclusive 308

(b) More than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch 214

(c) More than 1/2 inch 106

2. On inside:

(a) More than 1/2 inch 215

(b) Up to 1/2 inch inclusive 309

NOTE: One or more broken stitches or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam.

d. Raw edges:

(a) Up to 1/8 inch inclusive 310

(b) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 216

(c) More than 1/4 inch 107

2. On inside:

(a) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 311

(b) More than 1/4 inch 217

NOTE: Raw edges shall be classified as such when they occur at places where an edge is required to be turned under. Raw edges not caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

e. Run-offs (see classification of open seam)

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XV. Defects – Continued.

Defect

f. Stitch tension:

1. Loose tension resulting in a loose seam (stitches grin) 108

2. Loose tension on raised, edge, or top stitching, resulting in loosely exposed bobbin or top thread

3. Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied) 109

g. Stitches per inch less than minimum specified by:

1. One or two stitches 312

2. Three stitches 219

3. Four or more stitches 110

NOTE: To be scored only if condition exists on major portion of the seam.

h. Wrong stitch or seam type 220

i. Stitching skipped or broken (on edge, raised, or topstitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched):

1. 1/4 inch or more but not more than 1/2 inch 313

2. More than 1/2 inch 221

VIII. EYELETS

a. One or more omitted or added 111

b. Wrong type 222

c. Eyelet not securely caught in fabric, causing stitching to pull away from fabric 112

d. Diameter of inside opening less than 1/8 inch or more than 1/4 inch 223

e. Any eyelet uncut 224

f. One or more broken stitches in:

1. One eyelet 314

2. Two eyelets 225

g. More than two skipped stitches in one or both eyelets 226

IX. HOOK AND EYE

a. Hook or eye omitted 113

b. Not specified type or size 227

X. COLLAR

a. Interlining omitted 114

b. Interlining tight or twisted, causing puckers on collar, affecting appearance 228

c. Scarlet piping irregular, affecting appearance 229

d. Binding strip at bottom edge of interlining omitted 230

e. Binding strip at top edge of interlining other than specified material 115

f. Center of eyelet from finished end of collar less than 1-3/8 inches or more than

1-5/8 inches

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XV. Defects – Continued.

Defect

g. One or both eyelets off-center with top and bottom edges of collar by more than 1/16 inch

h. Finished height of collar:

1. Nominal height 1-3/4 inches: less than 1-5/8 inches or more than

1-7/8 inches

2. Nominal height 2 inches: less than 1-7/8 inches or more than 2-1/8 inches 234

i. Collar irregular in height by 3/16 inch or more 235

j. Binding not exposed or not extending uniformly 1/8 inch beyond scarlet piping at top edge of collar

k. Binding strip exposed beyond bottom edge of collar 116

l. End of collar distorted, twisted or crooked, caused by hand felling or hand stitching exposed on outside of either collar end

m. One or both ends of outer ply not tacked to eyelet reinforcement and eyelet covers

XI. COLLAR LINING AND EYELET COVER

a. Collar lining tab at left end of collar omitted or extending beyond collar end for a distance of less than 3/4 inch or more than 1 inch

b. One or more rows of stitching forming box stitch on extension tab omitted 238

c. Row of stitching at back of tab forming box stitch less than

1-1/4 inches from folded end of tab

d. One or both eyelet covers omitted 240

e. One or both eyelet covers not covering eyelet 241

f. Width of collar eyelet cover less than 1-5/8 inches or more than

1-7/8 inches

XII. COMBINATION IDENTIFICATION AND SIZE LABEL

a. Missing, misplaced, incorrect, or illegible 242

XIII. BARCODE

a. Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner 243

b. Human Readable Interpretation omitted or illegible 244

c. Not visible on folded, packaged item or causes damage to the item 245

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The collar shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table VII and the methods of measure specified in table VIII. Any measurement deviating from dimensions and tolerances specified in table VII shall be scored as a measurement defect. The inspection conditions and the AQL shall be as specified (see 6.2).

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The collars are intended as replacements for the collars of MIL-DTL-32732, Coat, Woman’s – Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Blue, Enlisted; and MIL-C-19516 Coat, Man’s: Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Blue.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. NSNs.

c. Lengths and heights required (see 1.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1).

e. When conformance inspection is required, and examinations and tests if other than those specified

(see 3.1.2 and 4.3).

f. Alternative labeling (see 3.3.9.1.1).

g. Applicable Government patterns (see 3.6).

h. AQL and visual examination inspection conditions (see 3.10 and 4.4.3).

i. AQL and dimensional examination inspection conditions (see 3.10 and 4.4.4).

j. First article sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.2.1).

k. Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.1).

l. End item sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.2).

m. Component and material examination and tests (see 4.4.1).

n. Packaging requirements (5.1).

6.3 Information requests. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth, go to http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx for the Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile Specification/Drawing/Pattern Request Form.

Complete the request form and then submit the form. Requests to use equivalent materials or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.4 Solution dyed acetate lining material. A solution dyed acetate lining material is recommended to meet the specified colorfastness requirements (see 3.3.2).

6.5 Thread shade. Black AA, Cable No. 66023 of the Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card for

Sewing Threads or equivalent is recommended to meet the shade match requirements (see 3.3.8).

6.6 Large collar size. For information regarding collar sizes corresponding to coats larger than size 48, address the inquiry to the procuring activity.

6.7 NSNs. For informational purposes only, NSNs that correspond to this specification are listed in table XVI.

Table XVI is not intended to be a comprehensive list of all NSNs associated with this specification.

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE XVI. NSNs.

NSN Size (inches) Collar height (inches)

8315-01-280-0160 16-3/4 1-3/4

8315-01-279-7726 16-3/4 2

6.8 Subject term (key word) listing.

Dress

Enlisted

Female

Male

Marine Corps

Uniform

TABLE VI. Table of operations.

No. Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

1. Cut and shade mark.

a. Cut the component parts (listed in 3.6.1) as indicated on the patterns provided and in the material specified. Unless otherwise specified on the pattern, the directional line shall be with the warp direction of the cloth. Additional cutting requirements are provided below for those components not controlled by a furnished pattern piece.

b. Cut the binding for the upper edge of the collar interlining from the same piece of basic material as the outer collar

(see 3.3.1), 1 inch wide and of minimum length to comply with operation 4.

c. The collar eyelet covers may be cut from ends of the lining material (see 3.3.2). When cut from ends, match the shade of the pair of eyelet covers with each other.

d. Cut the collar padding (see 3.3.3) 1-1/4 inches wide with a minimum length to fold over the ends of the interlining for each collar size.

e. Cut the binding for lower edge of collar interlining

(see 3.3.5) on the bias, 1 inch wide, with a minimum length to comply with operation 4.

f. Cut the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces (see 3.3.5) not less than 2 inches long and 1-3/4 inches wide.

g. Cut the scarlet piping (see 3.3.6) on the straight of the cloth

5/8 inch wide.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE VI. Table of operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

h. Mark or ticket the component parts of the collar to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Ensure the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and, wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed. Ensure the following methods are not used: corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on shade tickets, and adhesive-type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

2. Replace defective or damaged parts.

a. During cutting, replace all parts containing defects such as a hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, open place, loose yarn, snagged thread, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, missing yarn, broken yarn, thin place, shade bar, or woven in waste.

b. During the manufacturing process, replace all parts damaged by needle chews, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, or burns.

3. Make collar eyelet covers.

a. Finished appearance: the finished collar eyelet cover is

1-3/4 inches wide.

b. Turn under the side edges of the cover and stitch 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching.

301 EFa-1 10-14

c. Fold each cover in half across the width and seam 1/16 inch from the folded side edges. Continue stitching across the folded end.

301 SSc-1

(side edge) and

(folded end)

10-14

4. Assemble collar interlining.

a. Finished appearance: the edges of the upper and lower binding of the collar interlining are uniformly stitched 1/4 inch from the folded edges and are not tight or full. The interlining and both edges of each binding are securely caught in the binding stitching. The collar eyelet reinforcement piece is positioned on the inside of the interlining and the felt padding is positioned on the outside of the interlining. The collar eyelet covers are centered over the eyelets.

b. Position the collar eyelet reinforcement piece at each end of the collar interlining. Using a 1-inch wide strip of the basic material (operation 1.b), bind the upper edge of the collar interlining, stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Using a

1-inch wide strip of polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave material (operation 1.e), bind the lower edge of the collar interlining, stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Catch the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces in the binding stitching.

301 BSa-1 10-14

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE VI. Table of operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

c. Center the strip of collar padding (operation 1.d) on the outside of the collar interlining with the ends of the padding folded over each end of the interlining. Stitch the padding to the interlining from end to end 1/8 inch from top and bottom edges of the padding.

301 SSau-2 10-14

d. Lap the raw edge of the collar eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch on the top inside edge of the collar interlining. Stitch the cover to the interlining 1/4 inch from the raw edge of the cover.

301 LSa-1 10-14

5. Attach scarlet piping to outer ply of collar.

a. Finished appearance: the scarlet piping extends the full length of the collar along upper and lower edges of the outer ply. The piping is 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide, uniformly stitched to the collar without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and is uniformly worked out to the edges.

b. Seam a 5/8-inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the outer ply

1/8 inch from upper and lower edges.

301 SSe-2 10-14

c. Turn back the piping and outer ply at upper and lower edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the edge of the outer ply. Topstitch the outer ply uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edges of the piping.

OR

301 BSm-2(b)

(modified, each edge)

10-14

d. Fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edges, and seam as specified in 5.b. Turn back edge of the collar and stitch through outer ply 1/16 inch from edge, leaving the folded edge of the slightly offset folded edge of the scarlet piping extending

1/8 inch beyond edge of the outer ply.

301 SSav-2(a) and

BSm-2(b)

(modified, each edge)

10-14

6. Assemble collar.

a. Finished appearance: the collar is without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats. In the finished collar, the ends of the lining extend approximately 1/2 inch beyond the right end of the collar and approximately 2-1/2 inches beyond the left end of the collar for the extension tab. The eyelet covers are not caught in the eyelet operation.

b. Position the outer ply of the collar on the outside of the interlining assembly with the binding for the upper edge of the collar interlining extending uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the scarlet piping on the top edge of the outer ply. Ensure the binding for the lower edge of the collar interlining is not exposed beyond the scarlet piping on the bottom edge of the

c. Seam the outer ply and interlining assembly together with a row of stitches as close as possible to, but not on top of, the topstitching at the top and bottom edges of the outer ply.

301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Lap the top inside edge of the collar assembly over the top raw edge of the collar lining approximately 1/2 inch with the lining face up. Seam the collar to the lining with a row of stitches as close as possible to, but not on top of, the rows of stitches at the upper edge of the collar. Extend the stitching from center to center of the collar eyelet covers.

301 LSa-1 10-14

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

TABLE VI. Table of operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

e. Smoothly fold the ends of the collar padding and the outer ply to the inside over the ends of the interlining assembly and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

f. Turn collar lining at the seam to the inside of the collar and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

7. Make collar extension tab.

a. Finished appearance: the collar extension tab extends

3/4 to 1 inch beyond the folded edge of the left end of collar.

b. Turn the top and bottom edges and the end of the collar lining at the left end of the collar to the inside of the lining and baste the turned portion along the top, front and bottom edges to the body of the lining, forming the collar extension tab.

Hand SSc-1 (top

& bottom)

OSf-1

(front)

2-3

c. Stitch the collar extension tab 1/16 inch from the top, front, and bottom edges and continue the stitching at the back of tab to top row, forming a 1-3/8- to 1-1/2-inch wide box stitch.

301 SSc-1 (top

& bottom)

OSf-1

(front)

SSa-1

(back)

10-14

8. Fell ends of outer ply to collar and make eyelets.

a. Finished appearance: the upper and lower edges at each end of the outer ply are not visible on the outside of the finished

b. Tack the ends of the outer ply to the reinforcement pieces and to the collar eyelet covers with overcast stitching.

Hand --- 2-3

c. Make an eyelet through all plies of the collar and lining midway ±1/16 inch between outer edges of the scarlet piping and 1-1/2±1/8 inches from each finished end of collar. The finished eyelet opening is 1/8 inch wide.

Eyelet --- 20 per eyelet

(minimum)

9. Clean and press collar.

a. Finished appearance: the finished collar is smooth, clean, and flat.

b. Pull and remove all basting threads, trim and remove all loose ends of threads, and remove all spots, stains, tickets, and marking without injury to the material.

c. Press the entire collar smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine, ensuring no shine or gloss.

10. Attach combination identification and size label.

a. Attach the combination identification and size label to the collar (see 3.3.9.1).

11. Attach hook and eye.

a. Attach the envelope or plastic bag containing the hook and eye to the collar in accordance with 3.3.7.

6.9 Amendment notations. The margins of this specification are marked with vertical lines to indicate modifications generated by this amendment. This was done as a convenience only and the Government assumes no liability whatsoever for any inaccuracies in these notations. Bidders and contractors are cautioned to evaluate the requirements of this document based on the entire content irrespective of the marginal notations.

FIGURE 1: Hook and eye.

FIGURE 2. Collar.

DRAFT DATED 9 OCTOBER 2024

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC

(Project 8315-2025-001)

Review activity:

DLA – CT

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/