MIL.S.29368D Women's Shirts Long and Short Sleeve.pdf

I INCH-POUND I

I J

MIL-S-29368D

06 June 1994

SUPERSEDING

MIL-S-29368C

2 June 1988

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

SHIRTS, WOMEN’S: LONG AND SHORT SLEEVES

This specification is approved for use by the U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for women’s polyester/wool and polyester/cotton shirts with long and/or short sleeves.

1.2 Classification. The shirts shall be in the following types, classes and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Ty~e I - Short Sleeve

Class 1- Polyester/Wool, Tropical, Khaki Shade 2122 Class 2- Polyester/Cotton, Poplin, White Shade 3013 Class 3- Polyester/Wool, Tropical, Khaki Shade M- 1 (Optional)

TvDe II - Long Sleeve

Class 1- Polyester/Wool, Tropical, Khaki Shade 2122 Class 2- Polyester/Wool, Tropical, Khaki Shade M- 1 (Optional)

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

AMSC NIA FSC 8410

DISTMBUTION STA TEMENTA. Approved for public release; distribution is un[irnited.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2021-07-02T14:37Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

MIL-S-29368D

Schedule of Sizes

Regular Xo

Short Xo

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents

2.1.1 St)ecifications and standards. The following specifications and standards form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

Long Xo

FEDERAL

A-A-50135 A-A-5o199 A-A-52094 V-B-871

NN-P-71

DDD-L-20

MILITARY

MIL-P-15011

MlL-B- 17757 MrL-c-211 15

MLL-C-21881

MIL-C-29404

MXL-C-44296

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191

FED-STD-751

-Cloth, Interlining, Polyester -Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered -Thread, Cotton -Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic) -Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial)

-Label, for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

-Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, 4 Way Entry -Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Size) -Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool -Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton -Cloth, Tropical, PolyesterAVool -Cloth, Fusibles

-Textile Test Methods -Stitch, Seam and Stitching

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105 -Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-129 -Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 -Palletized Unit Load MIL-STD-984 -Provisions for Size Labeling of Women’s Uniform Clothing

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 191 11-5094.)

2.1.2 Other Government tmblications. The following other Government publications forma part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation.

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016.)

(Copies of specifications, standards and publications required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition fimctions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in DODISS shall be the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

AMERICAN SOCIETY OF TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM D 3951- Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging

(Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also maybe available in or through libraries or other informational semices.)

2.3 Order of ~recedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein (except for associated detail specifications, specification sheets or MS standards), the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Standard samties. Standard samples, when fimished, are solely for guidance and iniiormation to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the standard sample in which case the specification shall govern.

3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall fhmish sample shirts for first article inspection and approval.

3.3 Materials

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the separate types and classes of shirts shall be as follows:

3.3.1.1 TYPe I. class 1 and tv~e II. class 1. The basic material for type I, class 1 and type II, class 1 shirts shall be 6.5 to 7.0 ounce polyester/ wool, khaki shade 2122, conforming to type 1, of

MIL-C-29404.

3.3.1.2 Twe 1. class 2. The basic material for type I, class 2 shirts shall be 4.5 ounce poplin, polyester/cotton, white shade 3013, conforming to type II, class 1 of MIL-C-2 1881.

3.3.1.3 TvPe 1. class 3 and type II. class 2. The basic material for type 1, class 3 and type II, class 2 shall be 8.5 to 9.5 ounce cloth, tropical, polyester/wool, khaki shade M-1 conforming to type III, class 1 ofMIL-C-211 15.

3.3.2 Interlining. The material used for interlining the front, collar stand, and collar leafs of type I and 11shirts and the cuffs of type II shirts shall be a polyester fiber cloth conforming to A-A-50135.

As an alternate, fisible cloth conforming to type V, class 2, style B of MIL-C-44296 maybe used.

3.3.3 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester, ticket No 70, 2 ply conforming to A-A-501 99. As an option, thread conforming to type I, ticket No. 40, 3 ply of A-A-52094 may be used for the buttonholes. The thread used for all stitching shall be in shade khaki P-1, cable No. 66019 for type 1, classes 1 and 3 and type II, classes 1 and 2 shirts and shade white AH cable No. 66050 for type I, class 2 shirts. (See DOD Standard Color Card of Oillcia[ Standardized Shades for Sewing Thread.)

3.3.4 Buttons. The buttons for type I and II shirts shall be type 11pearlescent, class K, style 25, size 19 line, conforming to V-B-871 and in the following colors. (See DOD Standard Shades for Buttons.)

Type I, classes 1 and 3, and type II, classes 1 and 2, Shade Tan AJ, Cable No. 62028 Type I, class 2, Shade White B& Cable No. 62031

3.3.5 Elastic. The elastic for the collar closure loop shall be polyester, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, and the color shall match the shirt color.

3.3.6 Labels

3.3.6.1 Combination label. A combination identification and instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20 may be used. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. The content and format shall be as follows:

Nomenclature: SHIRT, WOMEN’S POLYAVOOL

CONTRACT NO. :

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

WOOL PRODUCTS ACT INFORMATION

DRY CLEAN OR LAUNDER BY HAND

CAUTION: BLEACH, FABRIC SOFTENER STARCH AND/OR HOT WATER

(EXCEEDING 100”F) WTLL HARM THE FABRIC OF THE SHIRT. Do not bleach, use starch or fabric softener. Do not squeeze or wring out. Place dripping shirt on hanger.

Press when dry or nearly dry on wrong side with steam iron set on a low heat.

In lieu of the printed cloth label, the required identification information may be marked on the shirt by heat transfer (decalcomania), direct printing or stamping. The markings shall cotiorm to type 111or type IV, class 1 of DDD-L-20.

3.3.6.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription on the size label shall cotiorm to MIL-STD-984: Table II, Body Dimensions for Mari~e Corps; Table III, Height Ranges; and Figure 1. Examples of labels areas follows:

Stock Number: 5410-00-000-OOOO(Example) Bust Circ 351t

Hip Circ 37 1/2” Height 63-1/2 to 67-1/2” (R) (Size Code 8)

3.3.6.3 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This labelhag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item.

3.4 Design. The shirts shall be the U. S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 5, six button front, semiforditting having princess lines, ornamental sleeve cuffs (type I, classes 1, 2, and 3), convertible collars, and vest type fi-ont and elastic loop for closing the collar. The type II, classes 1 and 2 shirt shall be the same body design except with long sleeves and cuffs to button.

Top button at collar shall close with 1/8 inch elastic loop and hidden button.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be fhrnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The standard patterns provide 1/4 inch seam allowance for seams except as other wise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. Also, minor .

modifications are permitted when necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, sewiceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.5.1 Pattern Darts. The shirts shall be cut from the material specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated below:

Item

1.

2.

3, 4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

Pattern Nomenclature Material : Basic

Front Side fronts Center back Side back Sleeve (type I, classes 1 and 2 and 3) Sleeve (type II, classes 1 and 2) Collar Collar stand Cuffs (type II, classes 1 and 2) Sleeve bin~ )e II classes 1 and 2

Material : Interlining

L

No. of Cut Darts

L

Front L Collar 1 Collar stand 1

-,) e 11 classes 1 and 2 2

Marker

Front Buttonhole

—ml - a

3.6 Construction. The shirts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations shall be used to manufacture the shirts.

When the alternate fbsible interlining is used (see 3.3.2), stitching of interlinings in operations 4, 5, and 12 are not required.

3.6.1 Stitches. seams. and stitchirms. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on a serging machine with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material. When a 517 stitch is used for the overedge stitch, it must be used throughout the shirt where given as an option.

3.6.1.1 Ends of seams and stitching. Ends of seams and stitching (stitch type301 ), except the ends of a continuous line of stitching when not caught in another seam or stitching, shall be backpacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.2 Shade marking. The component parts of the shirt, except parts cut from ends, shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking maybe used except:

(a) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(b) Sew-on tickets.

(c) Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration and leave an adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the ticket.

(d) Any marking medium which would tend to leave a permanent mark.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and, wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.6.3 Pressing. All pressing operations specified in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine set at medium (low) temperature (285°F maximum).

\l \

TABLEI. - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS

SEAMI STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the shirt in strict accordance with patterns firnished by the Government.

b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by directional lines on the pattern. The straight of the material shall indicate the warp direction.

c. Cut the component parts for the shirt from one piece of basic material, except the under collar, under ply collar stand and undcr-ply of cuffs maybe cut from ends, but when cut from ends, the parts shall harmonize with the shirt. The bias binding for the armhole cuff opening may be strip cut and placed on rolls. The binding shall be cut of sufficient width ( 1-5/8 inch) to finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide.

d. Cut tic 1/8 inch wide elastic 2-3/4 inches long for neck closure loop.

2 .Revlacement of damaged parts.

a. Replace at time of cutting any parts of the shirt containing holes or serious weakening defbcts such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakening slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc.

b Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns in the material.

3. Shade marking.

a. Mark or ticket all component parts (see 3.6.2) cut from one piece of basic material, except those parts cut from ends, to insure uniform shade and size throughout the shirt. Parts cut from ends shall be identified for size.

4 Make &llar.

Finished apparance. The completed collar shall finish smooth and flat without distortion. Edges shall be uniformly even. The seams shall finish at the edges of the collar. The points and seamed edges shall be neatly and completely forced out. lle points shall be uniform in length.

a. The collar and collar stand each shall be made of two plies of basic material and one ply of interlining.

b. Scam interlining and top collar together 1/8 inch from each 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 edge. Trim excess interlining along edges, where necessary. (each edge)

TABLE L - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.]

> d

~ STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

4. Make collar. (eontd.)

c. Seam interlining and top collar stand 1/8 inch from top and 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 lower edge. Trim excess interlining along edges, where n~ssary.

d Position undercollar stand on outside of undercollar with 301 LSq-2 10-14 70 70 notches matching and join together at the lower edge with a 1/4 (a) inch SWM.

e. Turn underecdlar stand and stitch 1/16 inch from raised edge. 301 LSq-2 10-14 70 70 b)

f. Position top collar stand on outside of top collar with notches 301 LSq-2 10-14 70 70 matching and join together at lower edge with a 1/4 inch seam. (a)

g. Turn top collar stand and stitch 1/16 inch from raiswi edge. 301 LSq-2 10-14 70 70 0)

h. Position undercollar and top collar face to b with top notches 301 SSe-2 10-14 70 70 matching and edges even and seam together along top and side (a) edges with 1/4 inch seam.

i. Trim points and turn collar working out the points completely and working seam line to edge.

j. Edgestitch the upper and side edges of the collar uniformly 1/4 301 SSe-2 10-14 70 70 inch from seamed edges. 0)

k. Press collar smooth and flat with heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

-or-

1. Seam the three plies together 1/4 inch from top and side edges, 301 SSe-1 10-14 70 70 with the interlining on top and all edges even. (a) m The-interlining may be stitched to the underply of collar 1/8 301 SSe-2 10-14 70 70 inch from outer edges before joining to the top ply of alar. 0)

n. Trim points and turn collar on a heated collar point turning and pressing machine, working out the points completely and working seam line to edge.

o. Edgestitch the upper and side edges of the collar uniformly 1/4 301 ssq-2 10-14 70 70 inch from seamed edges. (a)

P. Press collar smooth and flat with heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.)

SEAMJ STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

4. -Makeedlar. (eontd.)

-or-

q. The collar leaf may be basted along the seamed edge.

r. Position the raw edge of edlar between the top and under-collar 301 ssq-2 10-14 70 70 stand with interlining as indicated by notches on pattern and stitch (a) from end to end along top edge of edlar stand, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.

-or-

S. The eollarstand interlining may be stitched to the undercollar 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 stand 1/8 inch from the raw edges before joining to collar.

t Turn top and undercollar stand to finish position and raise stitch 301 ssq-2 10-14 70 70 1/16 inch from turned edge. 0)

u. Press collar smooth and flat with heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

5. Attach interlinimz to front facing.

a. Position the lefi and right front fhcing on their respective front 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 interlinings with edges even and notches matching. Stitch the two plies together at the gorge, top and back edge and front bottom angled comer 1/8 inch from raw edge.

b . Overedge stitch the shoulder and back edge of facing, retching 502 or EFd-1 10-14 70 70 the interlining in the stitching. 503

6. Assemble front and front side mmels.

Finished appearance. The fronts and side front panels shall be properly positioned and finished without pleats, puckers, or gathers.

a. Position front and side front panels together with notches 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70 matching, evenly distributing the fidlness in the bust q with a 401 1/4 inch seam dOVWUIG b . Overedge stitch raw edges of front and front panel seams 503 or EFd-1 10-14 70 70 together. 504

-or-

C. The front and side front panel maybe joined in one operation by 515 or SSa-2 10-14 70 70 seaming and over edge stitching the raw edges together. 516 or

517 or

TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.]

SEAMJ STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

6. Assemble front and front side tmnels. (contd.)

d. Press the front and panel joining seams smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. The seams shall be pressed toward the eater front.

7. Assemble back.

a. Position the left and right side back to eater back with edges 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70 even and notches matching. Stitch together with 1/4 inch wun. 401

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the back and side back swms 503 or EFd-1 10-14 70 70 together. 504

-or-

C. The left and right side body may be joined to the center back by 515 or SSa-2 10-14 70 70 seaming and overedge stitching the raw edges together in one 5160r operation. 5170r

d. Press the right and left back seams smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. The back seams shall be pressed toward the center back.

8. Seam shoulders.

a. Join back to fronts at the shoulder with 1/4 inch seam. 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70

Overedge stitch the raw edges of the shoulder seams together.. 504 EFd-1 10-14 70 70

-or-

C. The raw edges of the back and front seams at the shoulder may 515 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70 be joined by sa.ming and overedge stitching in one operation. 516 or

517 or 518.

9. ,Mark lower fkont comers.

a Tumfkcingto the fiontatthe notch onthetioftishirt 301 SSA-1 10-14 70 70 V&the raw edges of the bottom and angle even and stitch across the angle and bottom with 1/4 inch seam. The seam at the bottom edgesha.11extend thewidthofthe f%.ng and be in li.newiththe bottom turn-up mark.

TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contdJ

SEAMJ STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

10. Set collar with size label.

a Position collar between facing and front with the lower end of 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 c&r in line with the lapel notch and with raw edge of collar and gorge even. Stitch all plies together with 1/4 inch seam along the gorge from the lapel notch up to approximately 1-inch in back of the joining seam line of collar and collarstand.

b Notch all plies at the end of stitching line and continue to stitch 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 tie lower (neck) edge of the under collarstand to front and back part from gorge seam to gorge seam. When us~ the cloth size label shall be centered on the back part and caught in seam joining collar to shirt.

c. Turn fhcing to the inside of fronts, working out the points and seamed edges and lapping back edge of facing on fi-ont end of bottom turnup.

d. Stitch the shoulder edge of facing to the shoulder seam 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 allowance 3/16 inch from edge.

e. Turn under lower edge of collar stand horn gorge seam, lapping 301 BSg-2 10-14 70 70 the folded edge on fhcing and fkonts at the shoulder and on the (b) or back. Stitch through all plies 1/16 inch from the folded edge, BSj-2 centering the cloth label on back neck catching the top of label in (b) the stitching.

f. Fold the elastic in half, forming a loop. Position the loop on the 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 lower edge of the underside of the collar 1/2 inch from the right en~ with the ends of the loop even with the raw edge of collar.

Stitch loop to collar 3/16 inch from raw edge. The finished loop shall measure 1 & 1/8) inch.

g. In the finished garment the ends of the collar shall be 3 @-1/8) inches long when measured from junction point of collar and lapel.

11. ,Make o&amental sleeve cuff (type I Shirt).

Finished appearance. The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edgestitching shall be of uniform gage.

a. Turn under (to the right side) the lower raw edge of the sleeve 1/2 inch forming the finished curved and pointed edge in accordance with the shape of the pattern. Press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine, creasing the edge.

TABLEI. - MA NUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.]

SEAMJ STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

11. Make ornamental sleeve cuff [W I Shht). (eontd.)

b Fold cuff back to the right side against body of the sleeve at the 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 folding notches, with the pointed end of the cuff fhce up and stitch the cuff through all plies, 1/4 inch horn the upper folded edge, catching the turned under portion in the stitching.

12. Make cuffs (type II shirt).

Finished appearance. The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edgestitehing shall be of uniform gage. The cuffs shall have rounded lower comers. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and correctly position~ and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside.

a. The cuffs shall be made of two plies of basic material and one ply of interlining.

b Position the interlining on the inside of the top ply of tic cuff 301 SSa-1 10-14 70 70 w&h the side and bottom edges even and stitch together 1/8 inch from raw edge.

c. Fold the top raw edge of the cuff over the top edge of the 301 EFa-1 10-14 70 70 interlining and stitch with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from folded edge, catching the interlining in the stitching.

d. Stitch the top and under ply of the cuff and interlining together 301 or SSe-2 10-14 70 70 along the bottom and side edges with a 1/4 inch seam. 401 (a)

e. Turn the cuff completely and edgestitch uniformly 1/4 inch from 301 SSe-2 10-14 70 70 the seamed edge. The edgestitching shall finish 1/2 inch from the (b) top edge of finished cuff. The edge stitching may taper to edge of cuffs at ends of stitching and need not be backstitched.

f. Make a horizontal 5/8 inch long straight type buttonhole in Button 42-46 70/2 center of each cuff ( 1/4 inch off eater tolerance) with the end of hole per or the butt&hole 1/2 ~ 1/8) inch from the edge. button 40/6 hole including tack

13. Set sleeve and overed~e stitch.

Finished appearance. The sleeves shall be set without distortion.

a. Join sleeves to shirt around the entire armhole with a 1/4 inch 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70 seam, matching the notches. 401

TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING RETIREMENTS (contd.)

SEAMJ STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

13. Set sleeve and overedz e stitch. (eontd.)

Overedge stitch the raw edges of the sleeve and armhole 504 EFd-1. 10-14 70 70 together.

-or-

The sleeves may be joined to the shirt by seaming and overedge 515 or SSa-2. 10-14 70 70 stitching the raw edges together in one operation. 516 or

517 or

14. Close sleeves and sides.

a . Join fronts and back at the sides and close the sleeve underarm 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70 with a 1/4 inchs- with the armhole seam flat against the sleeve. 401 b Overedge stitch the raw edges of the side and sleeve seam 504 EFd-1 10-14 70 70 ailOwan~.

-or-

C. The raw edges of the sleeve and side seam allowance maybe 515 or SSa-1 10-14 70 70 joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation. 5160r

517 or

d. Turn Type I sleeve seam allowance toward the back and tack or 301 or 10-14 70 70 bartack 1/8 inch from lower edge of finished sleeve. Tack or Bartack 28 per bartaek shall be not more than 3/8 inch in length. bartack

15. ,Bind sleeve openimz (W II Shirt).

a. Bind the raw edgesof the sleeveat the sleeveopening with a 301 BSC-1 10-14 70 70 strip of basic material, with the raw wiges of the binding turned under and caught in the stitching l/lti inch from the inner folded edges. The binding shall finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide on inside and outside of the sleeve..

b Turn binding to inside of sleeve and bartack diagonally through Bartaek 28 per 70 70 tip of binding OXdy.An automatic tack my be USCd. bartack

NOTE: The words “top of’ in operation 15b. apply to the short sleeve shirt only.

16. Join cuffs to sleeve [W e II shirt).

Finished appearance. The finished cuffs shall be uniform in width without raw edges, distortions, twists, or puckers. On the finished shim the cuffs shall be 2-1/2 @l/8) inches wide.

TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.}

SEAMI STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

a. Position the underply of the cuff on the lower inside end of the 301 or LSg-2 10-14 70 70 sleeve with edges even. Join sleeve and cuff together with 1/4 inch 401 (a) s- turning the sleeve closing seam toward the back and catching the sleeve seam in the stitching. The bound edge of the sleeve opening shall be turned to the inside at the buttonhole end of cuff and caught in the stitching.

b. Turn cuff on the outside with the hemmed edge lapped on the 301 LSb-1 10-14 70 70 outside of the sleeve and stitch the top ply of the cuff to the sleeve, 1/16 inch from the finished edge.

*r-

The cuff may bc set to the sleeve and closed in one operation. 301 LSg- 1 10-14 70 70

17. ,OvcredEe and blind stitch bottom of shirt.

Finished appearance. The finished bottom edge of the shirt shall bc unifomdy over edged then blind stitched without puckers or gathers. The bottom tumup shall be uniform in width.

a. Ovcredgc stitch the raw edges of the bottom edge of the shirt 503 or EFd-1 10-14 70 70 with the side seams turned toward the back. 504

b. Mark shirt 1-1/4 inches from the scrged edge for bottom tumup

c. Press the bottom tumup smooth and flat, maintaining a uniform 1-1/4 inch tumup, with a heated pressing iron or a pressing machine.

d. Blind stitch the over-edged bottom edge to the body of the shirt, 103 or FFc-1 6-8 100 100 catching the facings in the stitching. 106 0)

18, Make buttonholes.

Finished appearance. The buttonholes shall be cka.n-eu$ weU made aqd correctly positioned. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

a Mark the right front in accordamx with buttonhole marker for &e location of five vertical lower button holes 3/4 @ 1/16) inch from the front edge.

b. Make a 5/8 inch long straight type buttonhole, tacked at each Button 62-66 per 70/2 en~ at each mark on the front. hole button- or hole 40/6 including tacks at each end

TABLEL - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.)

SEAMY STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

c. The buttonholes shall be made to fit 19-line sewing hole buttons.

The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside of the shirt.

19. Mark for buttons.

Finished appearance. The location of the buttons shall be marked so that in the finished shim each button shall engage its corresponding buttonhole or loop when the shirt is buttoned and shall provide a smooth closure with the ends of the collar at the neek meeting without overlapping or spreading.

a. Mark the letl front for the location of five 19-line sewing hole buttons thru the center of the buttonhole 3/4 & 1/16) inch from the front edge.

b. Mark the top left front panel (under the collar) below the gorge seamline, for one 19-line button to properly engage the closure loop.

20 Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance. The buttons shall be securcl:’ scwmto the shirt with tie ends of the stitching securely tacked The buttons shall be properly aligned with the buttonholes to secure a smooth and complete closure without bulging or misalignment.

a . Sew a 19-line sewing hole button at each mark on the left front. 101 or 22 per 70 70 The buttons shall be sewn through the fronL felt reinforcement disk Hand button and facing except the top button shall be sewn through the front and interlining and shall not go through the facing at the top mark.

NOTE: As an alternate, self fabric disk maybe used.

TYPE II ONLY

b. Sew one 19-hne sewing hole button to the back end of the cuff 101 or 22 per 70 70 to properly engage buttonhole. The center of the cuff button shall Hand button be 3/8 h“ch from back end of cuff.

21. cleaning.

a. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed, and the loose ends removed from the shirt.

b All spots, stains, and shade tickets or markings shall be removed tithout injury to the material.

TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS (contd.]

SEAW STCH THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH STCH PER NDL BOB

TYPE TYPE INCH LPR

22. Pressing.

Finished appearance. Pressing shall be done on a heated pressing iron or pressing rnaehine (see 3.6.3) of a type suitable to obtain the desired appearance in aemrdanee with good manufiwturing praetiee.

a. Button and finish pressing the entire shirt, removing all wrinkles.

b The center back of the collar shall be creased along the seamline of the collar and collar stand.

23. ,JAel.

a. Identifieationhstruction label(s) shall be positioned so that in the finished shirt the label shall be midway between the front edge of shirt and back edge of facing. The bottom edge of label shall be toward the back edge of facing and the lower end of label shall bc approximately 3 inches from finished bottom edge of shirt. (The label shall not be visible from outside of shirt.)

b. The size label shall be sewn in at the center back at the bottom of the top mllarstand of the collar.

3.7 Finished measurements. The finished shirts shall conform to the measurements shown in Table II.

Shirts shall be measured buttoned and lying smooth and flat.

MI I.- S-29368I)

Q

I + + + n.

I

O& y Cfl

CA A

* I

J)

‘3 z

CJ

Y

Gi— —

3.8 Workmanshi~. The finished shirt shall conform to the quality of the product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractor’s own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Res~onsibilitv for insr)ection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services cotiorm to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Res~onsibilitv for comdiance. All items must meet all requirements of section 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.1.2 Certificate of comr)liance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government resemes the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2 Classification of ins~ection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.4)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.5)

4.3 Insr)ection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in MIL-STD- 105.

4.4 First article inst)ection. When first article is required, inspection shall be made of a completely fabricated shirt for all provisions of this specification.

4.5 Oualitv conformance inspection.

4.5.1 Comt)onent and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase documents. The method of testing specified inFED-STD-191, wherever applicable shall be followed.

4.5.2 End item samt)limzexamination. As a final step in the contractor’s production control plan, before formation of the lot, each shirt shall be buttoned and examined on an inspection table.

Afler formation of the lot, the shirts shall be examined for the defects listed in 4.5.2.2 through

4.5.2.3. Acceptable quality levels shall be as indicated in the contract or purchase order.

18Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2021-07-02T14:37Z

4.5.2 General defects. General defects shallbeclassifie dasfoilows:

CLASSIFICATION

EXAMINE DEFECTS ,&IAJOR MINOR

Pressing a. Omitted 201

b. Burnedor scorched. 101

c. Gloss, wrinkles or creases. 238

d. Edge bulky (not pressed solidly). 239

e. Sleeve center creased. 240

f. One or more darts or seams not pressed in the direetion specified. 241

g. Cuff not pressed evenly. 242

Material def~ and a. Hole, cut, tear, needle chew, bum, mend, dam, patch, damages multiple float, loose or unsightly slub or shade bar:

(1) On outside. 102

(2) On inside. 202

b. Permanent crease in cloth (when caught in stitching) 103 Shaded parts a. Outside part except collar stand shaded. 104

b. Topcollar stand, or undercollar stand, badly shaded. 243 Cleanness a. Spot or stain clearly noticeable.

(1) On outside. 105

(2) On inside. 244

b. One or more marking tickets not removed. 245

c. Any marking clearly visible outside. 106

d. Thread ends not trimmed, or loose threads not removed. 246

e. Visible basting thread not removed. 247

Component and a. Any component part or required operation omitted or assembly added (unless otherwise classified herein). 107

b. Any operation not performed as specified (unless othenvise classified herein). 248 cutting a. Any component part not cut in conformance with dirwtional lines indicated on patterns or not cut in accordance with specification requirements. 108

Seam and Stitchings a. Accuracy of seaming and stitching.

(1) Seam or part twisted, puckered or pleated. 109

(2) Part of material caught in unrelated operation or stitching:

-Caught in or up to, and including, 1/4 inch of stitching. 203 -Caught in or more than 1/4 inch of stitching 110

(3) Stitching overlapping end of thread break less than

1/2 inch. 249

(4) End of stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching back tacked less than 1/4 inch. 250

(5) Ends of a continuous line of stitching over lapped less than 1/2 inch on all continuous stitching. 251

(6) Raw edge more than 1/4 inch long. 252

EXAMINE

Seam and Stitchings (contd.)

DEFECTS

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

g.

h.

Gage of stitching and seam allowances:

(1) Irregular, i.e., unevenly gaged or corresponding stit-chings not uniformly gaged (to be scored only when condition exists along major portion of seam.

(2) Width not as specified or not within range of gage specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified.

Stitches broken or missing (except buttortholcs):

(1) All stitching except overedging:

- up to 1/4 inch inclusive.

- more than 1/4 but less than 1/2 inch inclusive.

- more than 1/2 inch.

(2) On overedging:

-1 inch or more.

Skipped stitches or runoff stitches:

- more than 1/4 inch but less than 1/2 inch long.

- more than 1/2 inch long Scam and stitch type:

- seam type or stitch type not as specified.

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when condition exists on major portion of seam):

- less than minimum or more than maximum specified.

Stitch tension (except buttonholes):

(1) Loose tension resulting in a loose seam.

(2) Loose tension (exposed loops of top or bottom threads) more than 1/2 inch in length.

(3) Tight tension (stitches break when strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching).

Blind stitching on bottom turn-up shows on outside, affecting appearance.

CLASSIFICA

MAJOR M

4.5.2.3 Detailed defects ap~licable to specific parts. Defects applicable to specific parts shall be classified as follows:

EXAMINE

Buttonholes

DEFECTS

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

One or more omitted or added.

The center cut opening shall be 3/4 inch in from front edge ~ 1/16.

One or more slanted.

One or more of the five lower buttonholes positioned horizontally.

The space between each of the five lower buttonholes unequal by more than 1/4 inch.

Stitches not securely caught in fabric (stitches pull away— from fabric).

CLASSIFICA

MAJOR

Ml ml tiOR

15iT

{OR

B

CLASSIFICATION

EXAMINE DEFECTS MAJOR MINOR

Buttonholes ~ ~ buttonholes g. Two or more uncut warp yarns in buttonhole (not 212 caught in overcast stitching).

h. One or more broken or more than two continuous 213 skipped stitches in one or more buttonholes.

i. Loose stitch tension.

j. Ragged edge in one or more. 260

k. Not specified type or uncut. 214 261

1. Tacking omitted on end. 262

m. Buttonhole positioning from top to bottom different 215 from buttonhole marker (each size must be checked).

Buttons a. One or more buttons missing, broken or malformed. 116

b. Not specified size, type or color. 216

c. Hand sewn button tacked off with less than two stitches. 263

d. Front buttons not sewn through fuing or insecurely sewn. 217

e. Neckline (top) button sewn through facing or insecurely sewn. 218

f. Stitches not locked at end of cycle (tug at loose end of thread to detemine if it will ravel). 219

g. Buttons not aligned with buttonholes. 220

Labels a. Size label:

- omitted, incorrect, illegible, not completely on top collar stand. 117

- horizontally off center by more than 1/4 inch or verti-cally off center by more an 1/8 inch. 264

- when stitched, the top of label not completely caught in

b. ‘h%;ction label (or combination label, if applicable):

- omitted, incorrect, or illegible. 222

- not positioned on lower left facing. 223

- bottom of label positioned less than 1/4 inch from back edge of facing. 265

- right side of label less than 2-1/2 inches or more than 3-1/2 inches horn finished shirt bottom. 266

c. Bar code labelhag

- omitted or not readable by scanner 224

- human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible 225

- not visible on folded, packaged item 226

- causes damage to the item 118

Collar and Lapel a. Not uniform in size or shape - any point varying:

(1) more than 3/8 inch with corresponding point on matching part. 119

(2) 1/4 inch up to and including 3/8 inch with corre spending point on matching part. 227

b. Collar point uneven in length by:

(1) 1/8 inch Up to and inchding 1/4 inch. 267

(2) More than 1/4 inch up to and including 3/8 inch. 228

~ 120

CLASSIFICATION

EXAMINE DEFECTS MAJOR MINOR

Collar and Lapel c. Twisted, not smooth, too fill, short or tight causing 121 (contd.) collar to turn out. 122

d. Collar point not properly turned out.

e. Under collar exposed beyond edge of top collar for a 229 distance of more than 1/2 inch. 123

f. Stitching joining top coHar interlining visible on out side of collar.

g. Top end of either facing not securely caught at shoulder 230

h. ;%”of collar overlapping or more than 3/16 inch 231 apart when shirt is buttoned.

i. Either facing does not lie flat on front in the area 268 between second button and shoulder seam allowance.

j. Edge of collar not forced out, i.e., having a fold of 269

(1) 1/16 inch up to and including 1/8 inch in depth. 232

(2) More than 1/8 inch in depth.

k. Collar Elastic loop. 124

(1) Missing. 125

(2) Misplaced, i.e., not inserted in gorge seam line.

(3) Distance from right end of collar more than 233

5/8 inch or less than 3/8 inch.

(4) Loop opening more than 1-3/8 inch or less than 234

1-1/8 inch.

Sleeves a. Sleeve setting seam at underarm staggered more than

1/4 inch (measured from center of seam to center of seam). 270

b. Sleeve setting stitching irregular. 271

c. Width of cuff less than 2-1/4 inches or more than

2-5/8 inches from wide (type H shirt). 272

d. Cuff twisted. 235

e. Cuff not uniform in width. 236

f. Bottom edge of cuff at underarm seam, uneven by

1/16 inch or more. 237 Seams a. Side seams not turned toward back of shirt at hem or bottom of sleeve or sleeve setting seam not turned toward sleeve. 273

4.5.2.4 Size measurements. Any measurement deviating from the normal dimensions and tolerances specified in 3.7 shall be scored as a defect. Sleeves unequal in length by more than 1/4 inch shall be scored as a measurement defect.

4.5.3 Examination of Packaging. An examination shall be made to determine that the packaging, packing and marking comply with the Section 5 requirements. Defects shall be scored in accordance with the list below. The sample unit shall be one shipping container filly prepared for delivery with the exception that it need not be closed. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined on shipping containers filly prepared for delivery.

Marking (exterior and interior)

Materials

Workmanship

Content

Defect Omitted; ineorreet; illegible; of improper size and location, sequence or method of application.

Any component missing, damaged, or not as speeified.

Inadequate application of components, such as:

Incomplete closure of container flaps, loose strapping, inadequate stapling, improper taping, open and noncontinuous heat sealed seams and closure of polyethylene bag. Incorrectly fabricated bag.

omission of vent hole in polyethylene bag. Bulged or distorted container.

Number of shirts per shipping container is more or less than required. ~/

Size shown on one or more items not as specified on shipping container. 2/

~/ One shipping container in the sample shall be examined.

~/ For this defect, one package shall be examined from each shipping container in the sample.

4.4.4 Palletization examination. An examination shall be made to determine that the palletization complies with the section 5 requirements. Defects shall be scored in accordance with-the list below.

The sample unit shall be one palletized unit load filly packaged.

II Examine I Defect\ Finished dimension requirements.

vPalletization

Weight

Marking

Len@, width or height exceeds specified maximum requirement.

Pallet pattern not as specified. Interlocking of loads not as specified. Load not bonded with required straps as specified.

Exceeds maximum load limits.

Omitted; incorrect; illegible; of improper size, location,

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Presewation. Preservation shall be level A or Commercial as specified(see 6.2).

5.1.1 Level A. Each shirt shall be filly buttoned and neatly folded. The folded shirt shall measure approximately 15 inches in length and 11 inches in width. Each shirt so folded shall be inserted in an individual polyethylene bag measuring approximately 15 inches in length and 11 inches in width. The bag shall be fabricated fi-om 0.0015 inch thick film. All seams and closures of the bag shall be effected by heat sealing (see 5.3.1). A 1/4 inch diameter hole to allow excess air to escape shall be made in one comer of the bag. Prior to or during the heat-sealing operation, excess air shall be expelled to the extent necessary to insure the required multiples of packaged unites will fit into the shipping containers. As alternate, the final closure of the bag may be accomplished by a tuck or reverse flap. If the final closure is a tuck or reverse flap, the 1/4 inch diameter hole will not be required.

5.1.2 Commercial. Shirts shall be preserved in accordance with ASTM-D 3951.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level A or commercial as specified (see 6.2).

5.2.1 Level A. Twenty (20) shirts, of one type, class and size only, packaged as specified in 5.1.1, shall be packed in a fiberboard shipping container with liner conforming to class weather resistant, grade V2S, size 1A of MIL-B- 17757. Each container shall be assembled, closed, and reinforced as specified in the applicable appendix. The fiberboard used for fabricating the liner shall be grade V3C.

Towards the end of the contract, or when there is less than the required amount per container of the same size, mixed sizes of the same class may be packed within the same shipping container (see 5,3.2).

5.2,3. Commercial. Shirts preserved as specified in 5.1 shall be packaged in accordance with

ASTM-D 3951.

5.3 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order, unit packs, intermediate or exterior containers, and palletized unit loads shall be marked in accordance with

MIL-STD-129.

5.3.1 Polvethvlene bagged t)acka$?es. Polyethylene bagged packages shall have the required information legibly printed or stamped in black directly on the bag across the center face or on a white paper label inserted within the bag so as to permit ready identification. The bag or label shall indicate the following itiormation:

Shirt, Women’s, (Size Code 12) Bust Circ 35,, Hip Circ 37-1/2” Height 63-1/2” to 67-1/2” (R) Stock No. 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) Name of Contractor:

5.4 Palletization. When specified (see 6.2), item, packed as specified in 5.2, shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet in accordance with load type Ia of MIL-STD-147. Each prepared load shall be bonded with primary and secondary straps in accordance with the bonding means C, K and L, or O or P. Pallet patterns shall be in accordance with the appendix of MIL-STD- 147. The pallet shall be 4-way, type IV; type V, class 1, size 2; or type VIII, fabricated from wood groups I, II, 111or IV, Grade A of NN-P-71, or 4-way, Style 1, Size ~ type I, class 1 fabricated from groups specified of MIL-P- 15011. Interlocking of loads shall be effected by reversing the pattern of each course. If the container is of a size which does not cotiorm to any of the patterns specified in MIL-STD-147, the pallet pattern used shall first be approved by the contracting officer.

6. NOTES

(This section contains itiormation of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpfi!, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts described herein are intended for wear by female personnel of the U.S. Marine Corps,

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should speci~ the following:

Title, number, and date of this specification.

Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specified issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.1.1 and 2.2).

Size and length Type, Class required (see 1.2).

When first article inspection is required (see 3.2 and 4.3) the item will be tested and should be a first article sample. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acqui-sition of documents regarding arrangement for examinations, quantity, and testing and approval.

Selection of applicable levels of preservation and packing (see 5.1 and 5.2).

When palletization is required (see 5.4).

When all packaging data is to be found in MIL-STD-2073- 1 and MIL-STD-2073-2 (Note: on

5.5 in spec).

6.3 Guide sample and shade samples. For information regarding availability of guide samples and standard shades specified, address inquiry to the acquiring activity issuing the invitation for bids.

6.4 First article. First article examination, test and approval shall be as specified by the contracting officer (see 3.2).

6.5

6.6

Subject term [keyword) listing

Long Shirts Short Sleeves Women’s

F&ures. Figures 1 through 5 show general design of the shirt and are fimished for itiormation purposes only. In the event of conflict between these fwures and the text of this specification. the ieti” of this specification shall govern.

w * ,

6.7 Recycled materials. The use of recycled materials is encouraged when practicable as long as the material meets the requirements of this specification.

6.8 Marginal notations. Asterisks are not used in this revision to identi$ changes with respect to the previous issue, due to the extensiveness of the changes.

Custodian…