MIL_C_29427_Coats_Womens_11Jun25.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated of DRAFT document, prepared by the U.S. Marine Corps Systems Command, in support of Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support (DLS-TS), has not been approved and is subject to modification.

DO NOT USE FOR ACQUISTION PURPOSES. (Project 8410-2025-005)

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-29427C (MC)

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-29427B (MC)

21 November 1994 and

MIL-C-29480 (MC)

28 July 1995

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COATS, WOMEN’S SERVICE

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps (USMC), Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers requirements for a USMC women’s service coat.

1.2 Classification. The coats are of one type in the following class and sizes, as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Classes. The coats are available in the following class.

Class 1 Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Green 2212

1.2.2 Sizes. The coats are available in sizes 0X, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and 18 in lengths Extra-Short, Short, Regular, Long and Extra-Long.

1.3 Individual order. When coats are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the cut pieces may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice and the finished dimensional requirements will be determined based on modifications to the patterns.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be sent to trpsptctstandardiz@dla.mil. Since contact information can change, verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and

Standardization Information System ASSIST online database https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

mailto:trpsptctsandardiz@dla.mil https://assist.dla.mil/

MIL-DTL-29427C(MC)

DRAFT DATED 11 June 2025

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52105 - Cloth, Interfacing, Cotton, or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool, Rayon or

Synthetic Filling

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular

MIL-DTL-495 - Finish, Chemical, Black, For Copper Alloys

MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts

MIL-B-20289 - Button, Insignia, Plastic

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter

AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC TM20A Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM133 - Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing

AATCC TM158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning, Perchloroethylene

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.aatcc.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven

Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M-20 - Fabric, Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Fabrics, Textile (Grab Test), Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of this document are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor

(see 6.3). Variation from the specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

3.3. Design. The coat is in the United States Marine Corps design described in table I and as shown on figures

1 through 7. Figures are for information only. In the event of conflict between these figures and the text of this specification, the text of this specification shall govern.

TABLE I. Coat design.

Design Feature Detail

Body Fitted

Six-panel front and four-panel back

Fully lined

Notched lapel

Darts in front side panels for fullness of bust

Front closure Single-breasted

Four insignia buttons (buttonholes positioned on the right front and buttons sewn on the left front)

Collar Rolled collar

Eyelet at each end of collar for branch of service insignia

Sleeves Long sleeves

Ornamental sleeve cuffs

Fully lined

Shoulder straps Shoulder straps that button with insignia buttons

Pocket Inside pocket

Vent Center back vent http://www.astm.org/

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4.2 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, green, shade 2212 (see 6.3), conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-DTL-10176 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.3 Lining. The material for lining fronts, sleeves, vent, and the inside pocket, shall conform to the requirements of table II when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE II. Lining requirements.

Characteristic Twill Requirement Satin Requirement

Shade: Good match to the basic material shade (see 6.4)

Fiber identification Acetate

Weave Twill or satin

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp 120 288

Filling 68 68

Weight, ounces per square yard (minimum) 3.8 4.9

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Dry: warp 74 83

Dry: filling 49 117

Wet: warp 54 54

Wet: filling 34 77

Colorfastness to perspiration, rating (minimum)

Color change 5 5

Staining on cotton 3.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to drycleaning, rating (minimum)

Color change 4.5 4.5

Staining on cotton 4.5 4.5

Staining on wool 4.5 4.5

Colorfastness to crocking, rating (minimum) 4.5 4.5

Dimensional stability to drycleaning, percent (maximum)

Individual sample unit ±3.5 ±3.5

Lot average ±3.0 ±3.0

3.4.3.1 Bias binding. The binding for the armhole shield shall be bias cut out of the lining material specified in

3.4.3. The binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide.

3.4.4 Fusible interlining. Fusible interlining shall be used for the facings, collar, and shoulder straps. The fusible interlining shall be non-woven fusible interlining, 20 percent nylon and 80 percent polyester, polyamide paste dot conforming to MIL-C-44296, type V or VI, class 1, style B when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The fusible interlinings shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.4.5 Flannel cloth. The under-collar cloth shall be wool flannel conforming to A-A-50067. As an alternate, material that meets the requirements of table III, when tested in accordance with 4.4.1, may be used. The color of the cloth shall be green of a shade to closely match the basic material (see 6). The acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply.

TABLE III. Alternate flannel fabric properties.

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber content 100 percent polyester

Construction Needle punched non-woven material

Weight (ounces per square yard) 8.0 to 10.0

Thickness (inch at 0/6 pounds per square inch) 0.070 and 0.095

3.4.6 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-DTL-15064 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.7 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-DTL-15064 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. As an alternative, the sleeve head may be provided on a continuous roll and cut to the required length as long as the finished coat meets appearance requirements.

3.4.8 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to type IX of MIL-C-15065, except the cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth and stays should be dyed black. The dyed cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth shall show fastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, and steam pressing equal to or better than the standard sample. As an alternative, the coat front and center back vent may be fused using a woven cloth fusible.

3.4.9 Tape. The tape shall be cotton conforming to A-A-52071 as specified in 3.4.9.1 and 3.4.9.2. The requirement for non-fibrous material shall not apply. Fusible tapes may be used where appropriate and where the use of these tapes does not affect the finished quality or appearance.

3.4.9.1 Stay tape. The stay tape shall conform to type II, class 2 of A-A-52071, 3/8 inch wide for the front edges of coats and 1/4 inch wide for the armholes, back vent, and waist seam.

3.4.9.2 Bridle tape. The bridle tape for the break line of the lapel shall be 5/8 inch wide, conforming to type I, class 1 of A-A-52071.

3.4.10 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be made from cotton, tubular, flat braid, conforming to MIL-DTL-

371, type IX, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The shade shall be black or a good match to the basic material.

3.4.11 Thread. The thread shall conform to the documents cited in table IV. All threads, except that used for basting, shall be a good match to the basic material. Basting thread may be white or clear.

TABLE IV. Thread.

Use

(Seam Type) Description Document Ticket No. (Tex) Ply

Seaming

(301)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin 2

Seaming

(401)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 50 (36-45) for needle 2

70 (31-35) for looper

Overedging

(504 and 505)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 70 (31-35) for needle and looper 2

Raise, edge, and topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin 2

Buttonholes Nylon, twisted, soft finish A-A-59826, type I, class A

Government letter Size B (45-46) 2 or 3

Government letter Size F (90-101) 3 or 4

Buttonhole reinforcement

Cotton gimp A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish

8 (210)

Buttons Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 30 (61-70) 2 or 3

Eyelets Nylon, twisted, soft finish A-A-59826, type I, class A

Government letter Size B (45-46) 2 or 3

Felling Nylon, tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish

A-A-59826, type VI Government letter Size O (24) 2 or 3

Machine tacking armholes

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 30 (61-70) 2 or 3

Padding lapels Nylon A-A-59826, type III 00 (16)

Tacking (103 or

Hand)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 50 (36-45) 2

70 (31-35)

Basting Commercial grade cotton, cotton-covered polyester core, nylon, or monofilament synthetic

(see 3.4.11.1)

3.4.11.1 Synthetic thread. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment of a dry-cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry-cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed.

3.4.12 Buttons.

3.4.12.1 Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall conform to type I, 40-ligne, and type II, 27-ligne, black finish, conforming to MIL-B-20289. As an alternate, insignia buttons conforming to type II, style 3, class B of

MIL-B-3461 may be used. A dull black epoxy finish in lieu of dull black enamel finish is acceptable with prior approval from the contracting agency.

3.4.12.2 Sewing hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to type I, style 15, class 1, 18-line of A-A-59994. The color shall be black or a good match to the basic material.

3.4.13 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label, a size label, and a barcode label/tag conforming to the requirements below. When specified, each coat shall have a DLA troop support exclusive label (see 6.2). The order of information on the labels may be modified to facilitate production of the labels. The coat is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning.

3.4.13.1 Identification/instruction label. The identification/instruction label shall conform to type VI, class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075 including the colorfastness to dry cleaning requirements, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the label shall be white, and the label shall measure not less than 2-1/2 inches wide by 1-1/2 inches long.

The content shall be as follows, with information inserted in place of the descriptors, as applicable:

Nomenclature:

Contract number:

Name of contractor:

Wool Products Act information

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.4.13.2 Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall measure not less than

1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the size and length designation specified in 1.2.2 followed using the letters XS, S, R, L, or XL (for Extra-Short, Short, Regular, Long, or Extra Long), with the stock number positioned below the size and length designation.

10R

(stock number)

3.4.13.3 DLA troop support exclusive label. If used, the exclusive label shall be approximately 2 inches by 2 inches. The proposed finished label’s design shall be submitted to the contracting officer for approval. The content shall be as follows, with information inserted in place of the descriptors, as applicable:

DLA logo

“Made exclusively for Defense Logistics Agency by”

Name of contractor:

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government as specified (see 6.2). Government patterns show size, seam allowances, and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns. The list of pattern parts in 3.5.1

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated in table V.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts.

Material Item Number of Cut Parts

Basic material

(see 3.4.2)

Front 2

Side front 2

Center back 2

Side back 2

Front facing (right) 1

Front facing (left) 1

TABLE V. List of pattern parts. Continued

Basic material

(see 3.4.2) Top sleeve 2

Under sleeve 2

Top collar 1

Armhole shield 2

Shoulder straps 2

Cuff 2

Lining

(see 3.4.3) 1/

Front 2

Right center back 1

Left center back 1

Side back 2

Top sleeve 2

Under sleeve 2

Inside pocket 2

Fusible interlining

(see 3.4.4)

Front 2

Side front 2

Front facing right 1

Front facing left 1

Collar interfacing 1

Shoulder strap 2

Cuff 2

Cloth, wool, flannel Under collar 1

Shapers Working lapel shaper 0

Finished collar and lapel shaper 0

Under collar shaper 0

Left vent shaper 0

Markers Sleeve cuff marker 0

Collar stand marker 0

Right front marker 0

Left vent marker 0

TABLE V. List of pattern parts. Continued

Canvas Front canvas 2

Side front canvas 2

Chest piece 2

Chest piece reinforcement 2

Chest piece gusset 2

Felt Chest piece felt 2

Haircloth Shoulder piece haircloth 2

FOOTNOTES:

1/ For each coat, full lined design pattern pieces shall be used. No mixing is permitted.

3.6. Finished dimensions. The finished coat shall conform to the measurements shown in table VI and table

VII, as defined in table VIII. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE VI. Coat measurements.

Tol. X0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

A: Half

Bust

± 3/4 16-3/4 17-1/4 17-3/4 18-1/4 19 19-3/4 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2

B: Back Length

X-Short + 3/4,

- 3/8

22-3/4 22-7/8 23-1/8 23-3/8 23-1/2 23-5/8 23-7/8 24 24-1/4 24-3/8

Short + 3/4,

- 3/8

24 24-1/8 24-3/8 24-5/8 24-3/4 24-7/8 25-1/8 25-1/4 25-1/2 25-5/8

Regular + 3/4,

- 3/8

25-1/4 25-3/8 25-5/8 25-7/8 26 26-1/8 26-3/8 26-1/2 26-3/4 26-7/8

Long + 3/4,

- 3/8

26-1/2 26-5/8 26-7/8 27-1/8 27-1/4 27-3/8 27-5/8 27-3/4 28 28-1/8

X-Long + 3/4,

- 3/8

27-3/4 27-7/8 28-1/8 28-3/8 28-1/2 28-5/8 28-7/8 29 29-1/4 29-3/8

C: Sleeve Length

X-Short ± 3/8 15-3/4

Short ± 3/8 16-3/4

Regular ± 3/8 17-3/4

Long ± 3/8 18-3/4

X-Long ± 3/8 20-3/4

TABLE VII. Required measurements. 1/

Finished coat part Finished Dimensions Tolerance

Collar stand width, at the center 1-1/2 ± 1/8

Collar eyelet opening 1/8 ± 0

Under collar stand width, at the center 1-1/4 ± 1/8

Shoulder strap width, at buttonhole eyelet end 1-1/2 ± 1/8

Shoulder strap width, at armhole seam 2-1/4 ± 1/8

Buttonhole opening length, at shoulder strap 3/4 ± 0

Buttonhole opening length, at front 1-1/4 ± 0

Front buttonhole distance from coat edge to inside edge of eyelet 5/8 ± 0

Sleeve cuff length, at front and back creased edges 2-3/4 ± 1/4

Sleeve cuff length, at point 4-3/4 ± 1/4

Hanger loop opening 1-1/2 ± 1/8

Lining back pleat width 3/8 - 0, + 1/8

Inside pocket width 5 ± 1/8

Inside pocket length 6-1/2 ± 1/8

Inside pocket opening 4-1/2 ± 1/8

Hem, coat bottom 1-1/4 ± 0

Hem, sleeve 1-1/2 ± 0

FOOTNOTES:

1/ All coat sizes and lengths.

THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE VIII. Coat methods of measurement.

Measurement Description Guidance

A: Bust Measurement taken with the coat buttoned from folded edge to folded edge 1 inch below the base of the armhole.

B: Back length Measurement taken along the center back seam from the lower edge of the under collar to the bottom edge of the coat.

C: Sleeve length Measurement taken along the forearm seam from base to armhole to the bottom edge of the cuff.

3.7. Construction. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch type, seam type, and stitches per inch specified.

3.7.1 Cutting. Cut coats in strict accordance with the patterns furnished by the Government. All materials shall be cut in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns. Cut all polyester/wool parts of the coat from the same lot of basic material, except the armhole shields may be cut from ends. When armhole shields are cut from ends, the shields should match each other. The lining fronts, lining side backs, and center back lining parts of the coat and facing for inside pocket shall be cut from the same lot of lining material. All other lining parts may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut from ends, the shade of the lining parts shall match each other. The bias binding shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide. Cut fusible interlining stays for the armhole, back neckline, and shoulder seams on the bias, 3/4 inch wide, 4 ±1/4 inches long. Cut the interlining cloth for collar on the bias in accordance with the pattern furnished. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

3.7.2 Stitches, seams, and stitching. The stitch and seam types specified in table IX shall conform to

ASTM D6193. The number of stitches per inch as specified in table IX indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material. All stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the coat.

Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

When more than one stitch type is specified for an operation, any of them may be used.

TABLE IX. Stitches, seams, and stitching.

Operation(s) Stitch Type Seam

Type Stiches per Inch

Seaming (unless otherwise specified below) 301 SSa-1 10-14

401 SSa-1 10-14

Seaming - Shoulder straps 301 SSe-2 10-14

Seaming - Joining cuffs to sleeves 301 LSd-1 10-14

Seaming - pleat in back lining and darts in front lining 301 OSf-1

10-14

Seaming - joining backs, fronts, and side fronts.

Tape armholes. Seam reinforcement stay to armhole and shoulder.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

Undercollar - pad the interlining to the undercollar 103 SSm-1 4-6

Assembly - joining the top collar to the under collar 301 LSa-1 10-14

Joining facings and fronts with tape 301 SSa-1 10-14

Edgestitch - Shoulder straps, coat front edges, lapel front and top edges, left edge of center back vent.

301 SSe-2 10-14

Edgestitch – finished seam for collar, collar edges 301 SSb-1 10-14

Armhole shields - bias binding 301 BSb-1 10-14

Buttonholes - Shoulder Strap - - 40 per buttonhole (minimum)

(not incl. tack)

Buttonholes - Coat Front - - 50 per buttonhole (minimum)

(not incl. tack)

Buttons Hand - 4-6 per button (double thread)

301 - 21 per button

101 - 21 per button

Eyelets - Collar - - 20 per eyelet (minimum)

Felling - sleeve lining at armhole Hand - 8-10

TABLE IX. Stitches, seams, and stitching – Continued.

Seam

Type Stiches per Inch

Felling - collar to coat Hand -

8-10

Machine

(hand type felling)

LSa-1

306 LSa-1

Felling - joining back lining and facing-lining assembly at shoulders

Hand 8-10

301 SSa-1 10-14

401 SSa-1 10-14

Felling - sleeve lining at armhole (alternate) - (A

Strobel or Durkoff sleeve felling machine is authorized)

Machine

(hand type felling)

- 8-10

Felling - sleeve lining at armhole (alternate) -

Sleeve Lining Machine (feed off the arm machine with a lower and upper feed)

301 SSa-1

10-14 306 SSa-1

301 SSc-1

Felling - Stay tape to coat front interlining 103 SSm-1 4-6

Felling - bottoms Hand -

8-10 103 EF1-1

306 EF1-1

Felling - folded edge of sleeve lining to cuff turnup Hand - 8-10

103 SSm-1

Taping armholes 301 SSaa-1 10-14

401 SSaa-1 10-14

Tacking - Facings at back edge to interlining (shall be through seam allowance of facing and linings)

103 SSa-1

4-6 314 SSm-1

Hand -

Tacking - top collar to fronts at gorge Hand - 4-6

301 SSa-1 10-14

Tacking - neck edge of coat to the undercollar lining Hand - 4-6

103 SSm-1

Tacking - Underarm shield to lining Hand - 4 per tack (minimum)

Tacking (or seam) lining to the sleeve back arm and forearm seam allowance

Hand SSa-1 4-6

301 SSa-1 4-6

Tacking - cuff to sleeve 103 SSm-1 4-6

Padding Lapels 103 SSm-7 4-6

314 SSm-8 4-6

TABLE IX. Stitches, seams, and stitching – Continued.

Seam

Type Stiches per Inch

Basting (unless otherwise specified below) Hand SSm-1 4-6

101 SSm-1 4-6

Basting - interlining fronts, facing-lining assemblies to fronts, top collar and under collar, and lining at shoulders and neckline

101 Hopper Variable

Bar tacks - End of buttonholes - - 20 per bartack (minimum)

3.7.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch types, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. When chain stitching is performed the looper thread (under thread) shall be on the inside of the coat. Ends of all chain stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 inch. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be backstitched not less than three stitches.

3.7.4 Shade marking. The component parts of the coat shall be cut from one piece of basic material and lining material, including pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, and the two parts of the under collar cut from under collar cloth shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or the use of an adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.7.5 Replacement of damaged parts. Replace, at the time of cutting, any parts of the coat containing holes or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, loose weakening slubs, other material defects listed

4.4.3.2 expected to develop into holes, shade bars, and dye streaks, or unsightly slubs affecting appearance. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews, which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, or burns in the material affecting appearance.

3.7.6 Pressing. The coat shall be well pressed throughout with a heated iron or pressing machine of a type suitable to obtain the desired shape and appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practices. The coat shall be pressed smooth and flat, removing all fullness. There shall not be any wrinkles, creases, impressions, or pressing marks throughout the coat and the coat lining.

3.8 Construction requirements. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements specified below.

3.8.1 Coat front. Bust lines on both sides shall be alike. The contour of the waist and hip line shall be maintained in the seaming. The facings shall be tacked at the back edge to the coat front interlining with blind stitching, starting approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of the coat and tacking to approximately

2-1/2 inches from the shoulder edge of the interlining. Tacking shall be through the seam allowance of the facing and linings. Interlining fullness shall be properly distributed over the breast area. All shell seams and waist darts shall be pressed open and flat. The front edges of the coat shall have 1/8-inch edge stitching.

3.8.1.1 Outer shell seam allowances. The front, side front, and side back seams shall have a 3/8-inch seam allowance. The side front to side back joining seam shall have a 3/4-inch seam allowance. The center back seam shall have a 5/8-inch seam allowance from the top edge of the backs to approximately 3/4 inch below top end of the vent.

3.8.2 Waist darts. The waist darts shall have a 3/8-inch seam, tapering to a point at the upper end, and securely back tacked.

3.8.3 Lining. The coat shall be fully lined. The front lining shall have stitched darts. The darts shall be tapered from 3/8 inch to a point at the upper ends and secured with a back tack. The back lining shall have a center pleat measuring 3/8- to 1/2 inch wide. The pleat shall be tacked lengthwise in line with the notches for 1 to 1-1/2 inches from the top end. The facing-lining joining seams, side seams, and left and right back seams shall be pressed with the raw edges of the seam allowance toward the back. The darts shall be pressed with the edge towards the back.

3.8.3.1 Lining seam allowances. The lining shall be carefully and properly aligned and seamed to the facing with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. The back linings, left and right side back linings, and sleeve linings shall be joined with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. The back and front linings shall be joined together with a 3/4-inch seam allowance.

3.8.3.2 Sleeve lining. The coat shall have a two-piece sleeve lining joined at the forearm and back arm. The back arm crease shall be on the back arm seam. The sleeve lining shall be seamed or tacked to the sleeve back arm and forearm seam allowance, starting approximately 5 inches above the finished bottom edge of the sleeve, continuing to approximately midway up the sleeve (see figure 3 and figure 4). The sleeve lining shall finish 1 to 1-

1/4 inches above the finished end of the cuff. The sleeve lining may be felled to the bottom of the sleeve without basting.

3.8.4 Labels. The identification/instruction label and the manufacturer’s label shall be stitched down on all sides with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge of the label. The DLA troop support exclusive label shall be stitched down on all sides with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge of the label. The ends of the label stitching shall overlap not less than three stitches. The manufacturer’s label shall be sewn to the right front lining, horizontally with the edge of the label 1/8 inch from the inside pocket opening. When specified, the exclusive label shall be sewn in place of the manufacturer’s label. The identification/instruction label shall be sewn to the pocket facing, 1/4 inch from the edge of the outer shell facing. The top of the size label shall be sewn into the collar seam at the inside center back of the coat.

3.8.5 Collar. The ends of the collar shall be 1-3/8 (±1/8) inches for all sizes when measured from the juncture of the collar and lapel to the finished edge. The collar shall have one eyelet at each end of the collar 1 inch from the side and upper edges, respectively. The eyelets shall be well worked with the purling on the outside of the collar and shall finish with a 1/8-inch diameter opening. The collar shall be edge stitched 1/8 inch from the finished edge.

3.8.5.1 Top collar. The top collar shall be joined to the under collar at the top edge with zig zag stitching, properly distributing the fullness between the notches. The zig-zag stitching shall extend to the end of the collar.

3.8.5.2 Undercollar. The undercollar assembly shall consist of one piece of under collar cloth and a single piece of interlining material. The interlining shall be padded to the undercollar with 6 to 7 rows of blind stitching.

The undercollar shall be stitched to the interlining at the break-line; the stand shall be 1-1/4 (±1/8) inches at the center. The undercollar shall be stitched to the interlining 1/2 (±1/8) inch from the top and side edges.

3.8.6 Lapels. The gorge line shall be taped on the underside with 1/4-inch tape from shoulder to 1/4 inch below top of lapel. The front and top edges of the lapels shall have 1/8-inch edge stitching. The lapels shall be roll pressed on a suitable type heated pressing machine.

3.8.7 Shoulder straps. The shoulder straps shall be made of one ply of basic material and one ply of interlining and edge stitched 1/8 inch from the edge, along the folded sides and pointed end. The straps shall measure

2-1/4 (± 1/8) inches wide at the armhole seam and shall taper to 1-1/2 (±1/8) inches at the buttonhole eyelet end. The shoulder straps shall be positioned with the pointed end of the strap even with the edge of the neck and with the raw edge in line with the armhole and the back finished edge of the strap 1/2 inch behind and in line with the shoulder seam. The shoulder straps shall have 1/8-inch edge stitching on all sides.

3.8.8 Sleeves. The coat shall have a two-piece sleeve. The back arm seam and the joining seam shall have a

3/4-inch seam allowance, with the fullness evenly distributed. The bottom of the sleeve outer shell shall be turned up 1-1/2 inches and blind stitched.

3.8.9 Sleeve cuffs. The point of the cuff shall be centered between the lower front creased edge and the creased back arm seam of sleeve. The cuff shall be stitched to the sleeve before the sleeve joining seam is stitched. The cuff ends shall be caught in the sleeve back arm seam. The cuff shall be 1/8-inch edge stitched. The finished cuff shall measure 2-3/4 (±1/4) inches at the front and back creased edges and 4-3/4 (±1/4) inches at the point.

3.8.10 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall be inserted between the interlining and chest padding of the coat front, in line with the armhole edge and securely tacked to the interlining and chest padding only.

3.8.11 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall be added to the coat with the folded edge of the pad approximately 1/8 inch back from the raw edge of the armhole seam and with the front end of the pad matching the notch in the fronts.

3.8.12 Sweat shields. The coat shall have sweat shields at each underarm. The sweat shield shall be cut from the basic material and shall have 1/4-inch binding along the curved, outer edge. The binding shall be stitched to the sweat shield 1/16 inch from the folded edge of the binding. The sweat shield shall be sewn into the underarm sleeve joining seam and sewn to the lining along the bound edge. The finished sweat shields shall measure not less than 2 inches in length from the folded edge of the sleeve lining.

3.8.13 Armhole stays. The armholes and shoulder edges of the front shall have reinforcement stays. The top end of the armhole stays and over edge of the shoulder stays shall form a right angle at the armholes without the stays overlapping each other.

3.8.14 Buttons. The coat shall have four 40-ligne insignia buttons for the coat front and two 27-ligne buttons for the shoulder straps. The buttons shall be securely sewn through all plies of material with the ends of the stitching securely tacked. The 40-ligne insignia buttons shall be secured with the sewing hole buttons.

3.8.14.1 Front button placement. The four 40-ligne insignia buttons shall be sewn to the left front of the coat to properly engage the buttonholes on the right front. The center of the buttons shall be 1-5/8 inches back from the finished edge of the coat front. The buttons shall be sewn with the eagle upright.

3.8.14.2 Shoulder strap button placement. Each shoulder shall have one 27-ligne insignia button to correspond with the buttonholes in each shoulder strap with no slack, bulging or distortion. The buttons for the shoulder straps shall be centered in the buttonholes at the base of the points. The buttons shall be sewn with the head of the eagle towards the edge of the collar.

3.8.15 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, square bar, cut-first type, clean-cut, and reinforced with well worked over gimp. The stitching of the buttonholes shall be securely caught in the basic material. The end of the buttonhole shall be bar tacked. The gimp shall be pulled through to the underside of the front and caught in the bar tack. The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside.

3.8.15.1 Front buttonhole placement. Mark the right front in accordance with the marks on the pattern for the locations of four buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be 1-1/4 inches long and evenly spaced. The inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole shall be 5/8 inch from the front edge of the coat.

3.8.15.2 Shoulder strap buttonhole placement. Mark the buttonhole 3/4 inch long in each strap midway between the back and front edges with the inside edge of the eyelet placed so that in the finished coat the edges of the shoulder strap button will be 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the edge of the collar. The purling shall finish on the outside of the strap.

3.8.16 Hanger loop. The coat shall have a hanger loop stitched into the neck of the coat at the inside center back. The hanger opening, in the finished coat, shall be 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches long when measured along the neck edge of the collar.

3.8.17 Inside breast pocket. The inside breast pocket shall be made of 2 plies of lining material 5 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long. The finished pocket shall have a 4-1/2 inch long opening. The ends of the pocket opening shall be back tacked.

3.8.18 Back vent. The folded edge of the left vent shall be in vertical line with the center back seam. 1/4 inch stay tape shall be stitched to the inside of the left center back along the vent. The left vent corner shall be finished with a mitered corner (do not cut corner). Or the left vent corner may be piped for 1-1/2 to 2 inches and turned up

1-1/4 inches at the hem and stitched by hand or machine. The edge of the right side of the vent shall extend beyond the center seam allowance of the left back part. The left and right sides of the vent shall have 1/8-inch edge stitching.

The top end of the vent shall have stitching and backstitching through all plies, from the back center seam to the edge of the vent, for a distance of 1 inch.

3.8.19 Bottom hem. The bottom of the coat outer shell shall be turned up 1-1/4 inches and blind stitched. The lining shall be folded and basted approximately 1/2 inch from the bottom edge of the coat. The lining turnup shall be felled to the bottom turnup.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished coat shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. The finished coat shall have all basting thread pulled and removed. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed, and all loose ends of thread shall be removed from the coat. All spots, stains and shade tickets and markings shall be removed without injury to the material. All stitching throughout the coat shall be uniformly stitched. The coat shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. Defects shall not exceed the established acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 6.2) and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be examined in accordance with 4.4 for compliance, with the design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional requirements, and testing as specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article sample and acceptance criteria. The first article sample size will be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one finished coat. The lot size shall be expressed in units of coats. The presence of defects exceeding the AQLs (see 6.2), or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection, submitted in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests as specified in 4.4.1 through 4.4.4. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance.

4.3.1 Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), sampling shall be in accordance with table X and table XI. The unit for expressing the lot size and the sample unit for testing each component shall be in accordance with the applicable referenced document and table XI. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any examination or test requirements specified in this document (see 6.2).

TABLE X. Material sampling.

Lot Size Sample Size (Sample Unit)

800 or fewer 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 or more 5

TABLE XI. Component sampling.

Component Lot Size Expressed As Sample Unit for Testing

Lining and armhole shield binding Yards 3 yards full width

Chest piece padding Yards 3 yards full width

4.3.2 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the procurement documents

(see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The sample shall be one finished coat. The lot size shall be expressed in units of coats. The presence of defects exceeding the AQLs or failure of any testing, as defined in the contract (see 6.2), shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Testing of components. Testing of components shall be in accordance with the applicable subsidiary specifications and standards to the extent applicable, except that this specification shall govern in the event of conflict. Testing shall be performed on components listed in table XII for characteristics noted. If one or more sample units fail to meet any applicable test requirements, that may be cause for rejection of the lot. Certificates of compliance specifying that components meet the requirements cited in section 3 may be accepted.

TABLE XII. Component verification.

Material Requirement Verification

Basic material 3.4.2 MIL-DTL-10176

Lining 3.4.3 As listed in table XIV

Fusible interlining 3.4.4 MIL-C-44296

Flannel cloth 3.4.5 A-A-50067

Flannel cloth: alternate material 3.4.5 As listed in table III

Shoulder pads 3.4.6 MIL-DTL-15064

Sleeve head pads 3.4.7 MIL-DTL-15064

Coat fronts 3.4.8 MIL-DTL-15065

Tape 3.4.9 A-A-52071

Hanger loop 3.4.10 MIL-DTL-371

Thread 3.4.11 as listed in table IV

Buttons: insignia buttons 3.4.12.1 MIL-B-20289

Buttons: insignia buttons, alternate 3.4.12.1 MIL-B-3461

Buttons: sewing hole buttons 3.4.12.2 A-A-59994

Labels 3.4.14 MIL-DTL-32075

TABLE XIII. Test methods.

Components Characteristics Requirement Test method Results reported as

Cotton warp, hair wool filling cloth 1/

Colorfastness to:

Dry cleaning

Perspiration

Hot pressing

3.4.8

3.4.8

3.4.8

AATCC TM132 2/

AATCC TM15 2/

AATCC TM133

Rating

Interfacing Shrinkage 3.4.4.1, 3.4.8, and

3.4.8.1

AATCC TM158 Actual value

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Sample size for cotton warp, hair wool filling cloth is 1/2 yard.

2/ Rated using AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2.

TABLE XIV. Lining verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification

Shade Table II Visual 1/

Fiber identification Table II AATCC TM20A

Weave Table II Visual 1/

Yarns per inch: warp and filling Table II ASTM D3775

Weight Table II ASTM D3776/D3776M

Breaking strength Table II ASTM D5034

Dry: warp and filling

Wet: warp and filling

Colorfastness to perspiration Table II AATCC TM15

Color change

Staining on cotton

Staining on wool

Colorfastness to drycleaning Table II AATCC TM132

Color change

Staining on cotton

Staining on wool

Colorfastness to crocking Table II AATCC TM8

Dimensional stability to drycleaning Table II AATCC TM158

Width (armhole shield binding only) 3.4.3.1 2/

Edge finish (armhole shield binding only) 3.4.3.1 Visual 1/

FOOTNOTE:

1/ Results reported as pass or fail.

2/ Width measurements shall be obtained using an appropriate calibrated measuring device

4.4.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components that contain defects and damages as defined in the visual examination of 4.4.3.2 shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished coat shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.4.3.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The coat shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking. The defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in 4.4.3.2.

The inspection conditions shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2).

4.4.3.1 Model forms. The coat sizes listed below shall be examined on the appropriate size model form in accordance with table XV.

TABLE XV. Model forms.

Coat Size Model

Form Size

Model Form Measurements (Inches)

Bust Waist Hip

X0, 2, 4 4 33 24 34

6, 8, 10 6 34 25 35

12, 14 12 37 28 38

16, 18 16 40 31 41

Tolerance: ±1 inch ±1/2 inch ±1/2 inch

4.4.3.2 Classification of defects. All defects shall be classified as indicated in table XVI. Any defect that affects appearance to an extent that it makes a coat unserviceable as a dress coat may be cause for rejection of the coat.

TABLE XVI. Defects.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

1. Pressing a. Burned, scorched, or area with shine or gloss 201

b. Pressing omitted entire garment 202

c. Armhole stretched 203

d. Poorly pressed (unless otherwise indicated) 204

e. Basting or pressing impression not removed 205

f. Gloss not removed 206

g. Armholes not blocked or poorly blocked 207

h. Edge bulky (i.e., not pressed solid) 208

i. Inside of the armhole not creased as required 209

j. Armhole seam not pressed open across the top as required 210

k. Sleeve not creased at the front or back arm seam as specified 211

l. Wrinkles not removed 212

m. Lining not pressed smooth 213

TABLE XVI. Defects. Continued

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

2. Material defects and damages

a. Any hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, shade marking, or open place:

(1) On outside 101

(2) On inside (longest dimension in any direction)

(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive 214

(b) More than 1/4 inch 215

b. Loose yarn, misweave, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, or woven in waste: more than 1/4 inch (largest dimension in any direction) on the outside

c. Permanent fold, pleat, or crease in the cloth (when caught in the seaming or stitching) on the outside

d. Visible needle hole(s) (no thread present) or needle chew

(i.e., presence of scuffed or broken yarns caused by stitching):

(1) On outside:

(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive 217

(b) More than 1/4 inch 103

(2) On inside, more than 1/2 inch 218

e. Knot or slub on the outside (note: only knots and slubs that exceed the limits specified in the material specification shall be scored as defects in evaluating quality of the coat)

3. Shaded parts a. On outside:

(1) Variation in shade between two or more parts (except parts which may be cut from ends)

(2) Variation in shade within a part (except part which may be cut from ends)

(3) Part cut from ends badly shaded 220

b. On inside:

(1) Any lining part shaded (except sleeve lining) 221

(2) Any sleeve lining part shaded or pairs not matching each other

4. Cleanness a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable:

(1) On outside 106

(2) On inside 223

b. Thread ends not trimmed throughout the garment, one or more bastings not removed, or two or more shade tickets not removed

c. Any residue of synthetic thread (when used) not brushed off or removed

Classification

Major Minor

5. Components and assembly

a. Any component part or required operation omitted (not herein classified)

b. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not herein classified)

6. Cutting a. Any component part not cut in accordance with the patterns or the specified requirements

b. Twill line of any outside part not running in specified direction

7. Seams and stitching

a. Accuracy of seaming:

(1) Any seam twisted, gathered, puckered, or pleated 228

(2) Part of the garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

(3) Unsightly hand felling or blind stitching exposed on the outside of the coat affecting appearance

(4) End of any stitching (when not caught in other seams or stitching) not back tacked or backstitched as required

(5) Wrong shade of thread or two shades of thread used on the outside of the coat, affecting appearance

b. Gage of stitching (edge, raise, and topstitching):

(1) Irregular (i.e., unevenly gaged, or various stitching not uniform), affecting appearance

(2) Beyond the range of width specified or varies more than

1/16 inch when no range is specified

c. Open seams:

(1) On outside:

(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive 235

(b) More than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch 236

(c) More than 1/2 inch 109

(2) On inside, except machine felling:

(a) More than 1/2 inch 237

(b) Up to 1/2 inch, inclusive 238

(3) Machine felling:

(a) Up to 1 inch, inclusive 239

(b) More than 1 inch 240

Classification

Major Minor

7. Seams and stitching -

Continued

d. Needle perforations visible on outside 241

NOTE: One or more broken stitches or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam.

e. Raw edges:

(1) On outside:

(a) Up to 1/8 inch, inclusive 242

(b) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 243

(c) More than 1/4 inch 110

(2) On inside:

(a) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 244

(b) More than 1/4 inch 245

NOTE: Raw edges shall be classified as such when they occur at places where an edge is required to be turned under. Raw edges not caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

f. Stitch tension:

(1) Loose tension resulting in a loose seam (stitches grin) 111

(2) Loose tension on raised, edge, or top stitching, resulting in loosely exposed bobbin or top thread

(3) Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied)

g. Stitches per inch less than minimum specified by:

(1) One or two stitches (except label stitching) 247

(2) Three stitches (except label stitching) 248

(3) Four or more stitches (except label stitching) 113

(4) One or more stitches on the label 249

NOTE: To be scored only if condition exists on major portion of the seam.

h. Wrong stitch or seam type 250

i. Stitching skipped or broken (on edge, raised or topstitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched):

(1) 1/4 inch or more, but not more than 1/2 inch 251

(2) More than 1/2 inch 252

j. Outer shell panel seams not pressed open 253

k. Any curved panel seam stretched or distorted, affecting appearance

Classification

Major Minor

8. Buttonholes a. One or more omitted, added, or wrong type 114

b. Not corresponding to the size of the button:

(1) Too small, not permitting the button to enter the buttonhole

(2) Too large, longer than the diameter of the button by

3/4 inch or more (measured at the inside of the purling)

(3) Too large, longer than the diameter of the button by more than 3/8 inch, but less than 3/4 inch (measured at the inside of the purling)

c. Buttonhole not securely caught on the fabric, causing the stitching to pull away from the fabric

d. Bartack missing or loose on the following:

(1) One front buttonhole 256

(2) Two or more front buttonholes 118

e. Bartack misplaced, not serving intended purpose on one or more buttonholes

f. One or more broken stitches in the following:

(1) One…