MIL-C-15065J COAT FRONTS Goat Hair Canvas Shoulder Reinforcement.pdf

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MIL-c-15065J 16 February 1990

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-15065H

29 December 1986

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

COAT FRONTS

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies Of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1,1 *. This document covers coat front interlinings for coats and overcoats.

* 1.2 Classification. The coat fronts shall be of sizes as specified in 3.4.2 and 6.2 and of the following types (see 6.2):

Type I -

Type II -

Type III -

TyPe IV -

Type VI -

For Coats, Men’s, Tropical and Serge, Polyester/Wool, Army Green 344 (Army)

Deleted

For overcoat, Man’s, Army Green 44, with Removable Liner (Army) For Coats, Women’s Wool and Polyester/Wool (Army)

For Coat, Man’s, Polyester/Wool (Navy); Coat, Man’s, Wool, Winter (Navy)

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: U.S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Natick, MA 01760-5014 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

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DISTRIBUTION STATEMSNT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

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Type VII -

TyPe VIII -

Type IX -

Type X -

Type XI -

Type XII -

Type XIII -

Type XIV -

Type XV -

Type XVI -

Type XVII -

Type XVIII -

Type XIX -

Type XX -

Type XXI -

Type XXII -

Type XXIII -

Type XXIV -

Type XXV -

MIL-C-150b5J

For Uniform, Mants, Aviation Working (Green) (Single Breaeted) (Navy)

Deleted

For Coat, Manta Service, Polyester/Wool, Green (with Belt)

(MC)

For Coat, Mants Service, Winter, Wool, Green; and Coat, Manrs, Wool, Serge, Green (with Belt) (MC)

For Coat, Man!s, Wool Gabardine, Blue Dress (MC)

For Overcoat, Man’s, Wool, Serge, Green; or Gabardine, Blue (MC)

For Costa, Women’a, Wool, Serge, Green 2207, and Wool, Elastique, Dark Blue 2309; and Coat, Woman’a, Wool, Gabardine, Blue (MC)

For Overcoat, Man’s (Officer’s Type) (Navy)

For Coat, Woman’s, Polyester/Wool, Green 2241 (MC)

For Coat, Woman’s, Blue Dress (Navy)

For Coat, Man’s, Polyester/Wool, Serge (CG)

For Coat, Menvs, Tropical and Serge, Polyester/Wool, Army Green 344, Fusible (Army)

For Overcoat, Man’s, Enlisted (Navy)

For Overcoat, Woman’a, Enlisted (Navy)

Coat, Woman’s, Dress (CG)

Topcoat, Mants, Polyeeter, Elaatique (CG)

Overcoat, Man’s, Reefer (CG)

Uniform, Womants, Aviation, Working, Green (Navy)

For Coat, Woman’a, Classic Design, Polyester/Wool, AG-344, Fusible (Army)

MIL-C-15065J

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those lieted in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-203 c-F-206 V-T-276

CCC-C-458

DDD-L-20

PPP-B-636

MILITARY

MIL-C-297

MIL-c-43718

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191

FED-STD-751

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105

MIL-STD-129

MIL-STD-147

MIL-STD-731

Paper, Kraft, Untreated Felt Sheet: Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed Thread, Cotton Cloth, Flannel, Cotton Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard

Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton;

Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets

Textile Test Methods Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and ❑ilitary specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg-4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094).

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 9 - Animal and Animal Products

Part 95 - Sanitary Control of Animal By-Products

(The Code of Federsl Regulations (CFR) and the Federal Register (FR) are for sale on a subscription basis by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402. When indicated, rePrints of certain regulations may be obtained from the Federal agency responsible for issuance thereof.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent sDecified herein. Unlese otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which a~e DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not lieted in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

AMERICAN

o 3951 -

SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging

(Application for copies should be addreeaed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.)

TWE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF TWE UNITED STATES

Standard Color Card of America

Department of Defense Standard Color Card for Sewing Threada

(Color cards maY be available from the Color Association of the United States, 3U3 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927. If color carda are not available from the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

(Non-Governmentstandards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These dOcuments alao may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in thie document, however, supersedes applicable lawa and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

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3. REQUIRSMSNTS

3.1 First article. When specified (ace 6.2), first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance a sample shall be subjected to with 4.3.

3.2 Samplea. Samplea, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.4). Variation from this specification maY appear in the sample, in which case this specification ahalI govern.

3.3 Material. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification.

3.3.1 @aaic material. The ❑ateriala for coat fronts shall be cotton warp and spun hair-wool filling interlining cloth conforming to MIL-C-297 in the typea and claases indicated below. For types IV and VII coat fronta, the material shall conform to class 1 (natural). For all other type coat fronta, and aa an option for type TV coat front, the material shall conform to claaa 2 (dyed black).

Coat front types Cloth (type and claaa from MIL-C-297)

I, IX, XV, XVI Type III, class 2 Iv Type III, claas 1 or clasa 2

III, VI, VII, X, XI, XII, XIII, XIV,

XVII, XIX, XX, XXI, XXII, XXIII, XXV Type I, class 2 XXIV Type III, claas 1

Floating chest piece type

XVIII Type 1, class 1 and 2

3.3.2 Haircloth. The material for the shoulder pieces (typea IV, VI, VII, XIV, XVII, XVIII and XXII), cheat pieces and reinforcement piece for top front corners (type XI) shall be 2-ply cotton warp and natural horsehair filling cloth, undyed, having not less than 60 enda and 40 picks per inch, weighing not less than 4.5 ounces per square yard, and containing no sizing (see U.q.1.1).

An alternate for typea VI, XVIII, XIX, and XXI shoulder piece may include fabric having warp yarns made from 100 percent cotton, from 100 percent polyester, from any combination of polyester and cotton, or from U5 to 100 percent polyester with the remaining percentage rayon. The filling yarna of the alternate fabric shall be made from 100 percent nylon mono-filament. The fabric shall contain not less than 50 enda and 42 picks per inch, and shall weigh not less than

5.6 ounces per square yard (ace 4.4.1.1). The stiffness of the nylon filling shall be 0.060 to O.14 load pound (see 4.4.1.1). The horsehair shall meet current Quarantine Laws and pertinent regulation of the U.S. Department of Agriculture aa aet forth in the Cede of Federal Regulations (see 2.1.2).

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3.3.3 table I

Polyester and cotton cloth. The material for the components listed in shall be polyester and cotton cloth undyed or in colors as indicated, conforming to clasa 1 of MIL-C-43718.

TABLE I. Polyester and cotton cloth components

Type(s)

111, IV, VI, XVI, XVII XIII

Component I VII, and XIV and XXI XI XII and XV

Stays:

(undyed or black) x x (undyed) x x x x

Chest piece bottom covering:

(undyed) x-

Top front corner reinforcement covering:

(undyed) x--

3.3.4 Padding. The padding for cheat (types I, III, VI, IX, X, XI, XII, XIII, XV, XVII, XVIII, and XXII) shall be either felt or flannel. The padding for cheat (types VII, XIV, XIX,, XX, XXI, XXIV, and XXV) and for shoulder (types IV and XVI) shall be felt.

3.3.4.1 Felt. The felt shall be pressed wool conforming to type III (roll-felt), classification 11A2 of c-F-206.

3.3.4.2 Flannel. The flannel shall be unbleached, double-napped, conforming to type II, class 1 of CCC-C-458.

3.3.5 Labels. Each coat front shall have an identification label (applicable only when coat fronts are purchased directly by the Government) and a size label con~orming to DDD-L-20. The fastness to drycleanlng requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply.

3.3.5.1 Identification label.

directly above the size label and the characters of the inscription

The identification label shall be applied shall conform to type IV, class 1, except that shall be not lese than Ill inch in height.

3.3.5.2 Size label. The size label shall be applied to the bottom end of each left and right front and shall conform to type IV, class 2, except that the character of the inscription shall be not less than 3/8 inch or more than 5/8 inch in height. The size label shall include the numerical designation followed by S for short, R for regular and L for long. In addition, each coat front shall be labeled to indicate the left front and the right front by preceding the size designation with the lettera LT for left and RT for right as shown in the following examples:

LT 38R ~ 38R

3.3.6 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the

cotton, soft finish, type IA1 or type IA2, shade White AH, No. 50 or 70, 2-ply, conforming to V-T-276.

3.4 Patterns.

fronts shall be C.A. 66050, ticket

● 3.4.1 Pattern parts. The component parta of the fronts shall be cut from specified materials in accordance with pattern parts indicated in table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts

Component Pattern nomenclature Cut parts

Basic material

Felt or flannel

Baaic material 2

Type I

Basic material Right front 1 Left front 1 Chest piece 2 Wedge piece (shoulder dart) 2

Felt or flannel Chest padding 2

Type III

Front Chest pisce Wedge piece (shoulder dart)

Chest padding

Type IV

Front Side front

TABLE II. List of pattern parts (cent’d)

Component Pattern nomenclature Cut parts

Felt

Haircloth

Basic ❑aterial

Felt or flannel

Haircloth (or alternate for type VI see 3.3.2)

Basic ❑aterial

Felt

Haircloth

Basic ❑aterial

Hair cloth

Felt or flanne1

Type IV (cent’d)

Front shoulder piece Shoulder padding

Shoulder piece

Types VI, XVII, XXII, and XXIII

Front Chest piece Wedge piece (shoulder dart)

Chest padding (type XXIII flannel

Shoulder piece

Types VII and XIV

Front Side front Front chest Side cheat Reinforcement piece

Chest padding

Shoulder piece

Types IX and X

Front Cheat piece wedge piece (shoulder)

Shoulder piece

Chest padding only)

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NIL-C-15065J

TABLE II. List of pattern parts (cont~d)

Component Pattern nomenclature Cut parts

Basic material

Haircloth

I Felt or flannel

Polyester and cotton cloth

Basic material

Polyester and cotton cloth

Felt or flannel

Basic material

I Basic material

Felt

Haircloth

Type XI

Right frent Left front

Right chest piece Left chest piece Top front corner reinforcement

Right chest padding Left chest padding

Top front corner reinforcement and chest piece front covering Chest piece bottom edge covering Dart stay

Type XII

Right front Left front Chest piece Shoulder dart stay

Neck dart stay

Chest padding

Types XIII and XV

Front Side front

Type XVI

Front Side front

Shoulder padding

Shoulder piece

TABLE II. List of pattern parts (cont~d)

Component Pattern nomenclature Cut parte

Baaic material

Felt or flannel

Haircloth (or alternate see 3.3.2)

Baaic material

Felt

Haircloth (or alternate aee 3.3.2)

Baaic material

Felt

Basic material

Felt

Haircloth (or alternate see 3.3.2)

Baeic material

Felt

Type XVIII

Chest piece Shoulder piece

Chest padding

Shoulder reinforcement piece

Type XIX

Front Chest piece

Chest padding

Shoulder piece

Type XX

Front

Cheat padding

Type XXI

Front

Chest piece

Shoulder piece

Type XXIV

Front Chest piece

Cheat padding

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TABLS II. List of pattern parts (cent’d)

Component Pattern nomenclature Cut parts

Type XXV

Basic ❑aterial Chest piece interlining 2 Shoulder wedge 2 Shoulder piece interlining 2

Felt Shoulder piece 2

3.U.2 Sizes. The coat fronts shall conform to the sizes specified in the appli~ble @nd item specification Or procurement document and shall be fabricated in accordance with the standard patterns applicable thereto.

3.4.3 Coat fronts purchased by an end item manufacturer. When coat fronts are purchased by an end item manufacturer as a component of an end item, standard patterns of the coat fronts will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The patterns furnished shall be used by the contractor for cutting working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way.

3.4.Q Coat fronts purchased directly by the Government. Nhen coat fronts are purchased directly by the Government, standard patterns shall be furnished by the Government to the contractor for cutting working patterns (see 6.21. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way.

3.5 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in table III and herein. Figures are furnished solely for guidance and information. Should variation from the written document appear in any figure, the document shall govern.

3.5.1 shall be

3.5.2 shall be

Stitches, seams, and stitching. The stitch, seam, and stitching type as specified in table III and shall conform to FED-STD-751.

Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch as specified in table III.

3.5.3 Pressing.

table III shall be left fronts.

Steam shrinkage and dry pressing operationa specified in performed on steam pressing machines shaped for right and

1 ● 3.6 t+anufacturingoperationa requirements The fronts shall be ❑anufactured in accordance with all operation requirements specified in table III.

The contractor ia not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as long as all requirements are met.

3.7 Uae of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in table III, providing that the seam and stitch tvDe are aa SDeCified and the finished component conforms to the. .

required configuration. When”a government furnished shaper pattern is forwarded, the component shall conform to that pattern.

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MIL-C.15065J

3.7 Workmanship. The Fronts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinationsand tests) as specified herein.

Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government.

The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in this specificationwhere such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and servicee conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program.

The abaence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall nOt relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of ❑anufacturing operations, ia an acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requimmenta, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to accept defective ❑aterial.

4.1.2 Reaponaibility for dimensional requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been ❑et. When dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, Inspection shall be made at any point, or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.3 Certificates of compliance. When certificate of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the the validity of the certification.

● 4.2 Classification of inspections.

herein are classified as follows:

right to inspect such items to determine

The inspection requirements specified

a. Pirst article inspection (see 4.3).

b. Quality conformance inspection (ace 4.4).

● 4.3 Firat article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1 and 6.2), it shall be examined for the defects specified in 4.4.2.

4.U Quality conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105.

q.Q.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with q.1, components and ❑aterials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unlese otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

q.U.1.1 Component and ❑aterial certification. A certificate of compliance may be acceptable as evidence that the characteristics listed in table IV conform to the specified requirements, when teeted by tbe specified methods.

TASLE IV. Component and materials teats

Component or Requirement Test ❑aterial Characteristic paragraph method

Haircloth (or Material identification 3.3.2 alternate for Yarns per inch 3.3.2 type VI only) Weight 3.3.2

Sizing content 3.3.2 (haircloth only)

Stiffness (alternate 3.3.2 only)

5050 1/ 5041 7/ 2611 ~/

5202 J/

~/ PSD-STD-191

● 4.4.2 End item visual examination. The end items shall be examined for the defects listed in table V. The lot size shall be expressed in unita of paire of coat fronts. The sample unit shall be one pair of coat fronts. The inspection level shall be S-4 and the acceptable auality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 10.

TABLE V. End item vieual defects

Examine Defect

General:

Material defects Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, and damages scorched area, or open place

Permanent crease on lapel part

TAELE V. End item visual defects (cent’d)

Examine Defect

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General: (contfd)

Cleanness

Component and assembly

Cutting

Pressing

Seams and stitching

Stitches missing or broken

Seam or stitch type

Stitch tension

Stitches per inch

Size marking

Ink, oil, greaae spot, or stain

Any component part or required operation omitted or added (unless otherwise indicated herein) Any operation not performed as specified

Any component part not cut in accordance with directional lines indicated on pattern or in accordance with specification requirements

Omitted on one or both fronts, or not pressed to conform to ahape of body

Part of front caught in an unrelated operation or stitching

Any part badly pleated or puckered in stitching

More than 1 inch in length in one or more places

WrOng seam or stitch type

Loose tension resulting in a loose seam on major portion of seam

Tight tension on major portion of seam (stitches break when normal strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching)

Less than ❑inimum or more than maximum specified (To be scored only when condition exists on major portion of seam)

Miaaing, incorrect, or illegible on one or both fronta Not located on lower end of each left and right front Lettering and numerals less than 1/2 inch in hsight

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TABLE V. End item visual defects (cent’d)

Examine Defect

General: (cent’d)

Identification marking (applicable when coat fronts are purchased directly by the Government)

Pairing (all types)

Type I fronte:

Shoulder darts

Armhole and waist darts

Chest piece

Padding

1 Type III fronts:

Shoulder darts

Missing, incorrect, or illegible on one or both fronts Not located directly abcve size ❑arking Lettering and numerals less than 1/4 inch in height

Two rights or two lefts paired Different sizes paired

One or more not spread open One or both wedge pieces omitted One or both darts on chest piece not stitched through wedge piece and front

Edges of one or more darts not abutted or overlapped (as required)

One or more stay pieces omitted Stitching not caught through stay on major portion of one or more darts

Not properly positioned Vertical row of stitching through center of chast piece omitted

Stitching on front or bottom edge omitted

Not extended beyond shoulder, armhole, and side of frent

Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or ❑ore than 3/Q inch apart Shoulder portion shoulder pad not left open to accommodate

One or more not spread open One or both wedge pieces omitted One or both darts on chest piece not stitched through wedge piece and front

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I Examine Defect

I Type III fronts:

(cent’d)

Chest darts

Chest piece

Padding

Edges of dart not abutted or overlapped as specified Stay pieces omitted Stitching not caught through stay on major portion of one or ❑ore

Not properly Vertical row omitted

Stitching on

Not extended front darts positioned of stitching through center of chest piece front or bottom edge omitted beyond shoulder, armhole, and side of

Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or more than 3/4 inch apart Shoulder portion not left open to accommodate shoulder pad

Type lV fronts:

I Front and side front Not abutted or overlapped as specified Stitching not caught ihrough siay piece on major portion of one or both seams

Stay omitted on one or both seams

Front shoulder piece and shoulder padding

Type VI fronts:

Front

Shoulder piece or shoulder padding omitted on one or both fronts Not properly positioned Rows of stitching less than 3/8 or more than 3/0 Inch apart

Darts not overlapped as specified Stay tape omitted Stitching not caught through stay tape on ❑ore than half the length of seam

Waist dart step stitched

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NIL-C-15065J

Examine Defect

Type VI fronts:

(cent’d)

Shoulder piece

Chest piece

Padding

Type VII fronts:

Front and side front

Chest piece

Padding

Omitted Not properly positioned Not inserted between front and chest piece

Not properly positioned Spread of wedge opening not as specified Position, length or gage of one or more rows of stitching not as specified

Not positioned properly Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or more than 3/4 inch apart Shoulder portion not left open to accommodate shoulder pad

Not abutted or overlapped as specified Stitching not caught through stay piece on major portion of one or both seams

Stay omitted on one or both seams

Not properly positioned Biaa cut haircloth shoulder piece omitted Bias cut haircloth shoulder piece not inserted at shoulder between body and chest section

Chest piece not quilted to front Stay omitted on bottom edge of cheat piece Stay on bottom edge of chest piece not stitched on both sides

Not positioned on cheat piece with armholes aligned Bias cut 2 by 5-inch stay omitted Bias cut 2 by 5-inch stay not positioned as specified Rowe of stitching less than 3/8 inch or more than 3/4 inch apart Shoulder portion not left open to accommodate shoulder pad

MIL-C.15065J

Examine Defect

I Types IX and X fronts:

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Shoulder and waist darts

Chest piece and I chest padding

Not abutted or overlapped as specified Not stitched through basic material dart stays

Chest piece omitted Chest piece and chest padding not placed on underside of body part

Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or ❑ ore than 3/q inch apart

Type XI fronts:

Shoulder and waist dart

Cheat piece and chest padding

Type XII fronts:

I Neck dart

I Shoulder dart

I Chest piece and padding

Edges not abutted or overlapped as specified Not stitched through polyester and cotton cloth dart stays

Cheat piece omitted Haircloth reinforcement at omitted Polyester and cotton cloth of bodv section omitted top front of body sections covering at top front edge

ROWS of-stitching less than 3/8 inch or more than 3 IQ inch apart Polyester and cotton cloth covering at bottom edges of chest piece omitted

Padding not extendfng beyond the armhole

Shoulder portion not left open to accommodate shoulder pad

Edges not abutted or overlapped as specified Not stitched through dart stay

Edges not abutted or overlapped aa specified Not stitched through basic material dart stay

Padding not extended beyond the armhole Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or more than 3/0 inch apart Shoulder portion not left open to accommodate shoulder pad

NIL-c-15065J

TABLF V. End item visual defects (cent’d)

Examine Defect

Types XIII and XV fronts:

Front and side front

Chest Diece and padding

Type XIV frents:

Front and side

Chest piece

Padding

Type XVI fronts:

Frent and side

Shoulder piece

Padding front front

Edges of front and side front not abutted or overlapped as specified

Not stitched through stay

Chest piece omitted Not stitched to the inside of coat fronts Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or more than 3/4 inch apart

Not abutted or overlapped as specified Stitching not caught through stay piece on major portion of one or both seams

Stay omitted on one or bDth seams

Not properly positioned Shoulder piece omitted or not inserted at shoulder between body and chest section Chest piece not quilted to front Stay omitted on bottom edge of chest piece Stay on bottom edge of chest piece not stitched on both sides

Not positioned on chest piece with armholes aligned Not stitched to chest piece along contour the padding

Not abutted or overlapped as specified and through

Stitching not caught through stay piece on major portion of one or both seama Stay omitted on one or both seams

Not properly positioned or omitted Not quilted as specified

Not as specified or omitted

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TABLE V. End item visual defects (conttd)

Examine Oefect

Type XVII fronts:

Front Dart not overlapped as specified Stay tape omitted on dart Stitching not caught through stay tape on more than half the length of tape

Shoulder piece

Chest piece

Padding

I Type XVIII fronts:

Chest piece

Padding

Type XIX fronts:

Chest piece

Chest padding

Omit ted Not properly positioned

Not inserted between front and chest piece

Not properly aligned Spread of wedge opening not as specified Position, length, or gage of one or more rows of stitching not as specified

Not positioned properly Rows of stitching less than 3/8 inch or ❑ore than 3/4 inch apart Shoulder portion not left open to accommodate shoulder pad

Not properly positioned Shoulder reinforcement piece Position, length, or gage of stitching not as specified

Not positioned properly Position, length, or gage of stitching not as specified or shoulder piece omitted one or more rows of one or more rows of

Not properly positioned or omitted Shoulder piece not properly positioned Not quilted or stitched as directed

Not properly positioned or omitted Not quilted or stitched as directed or omitted

TABLS V. End item visual defects (conttd)

Examine Defect

Type XX fronts:

Chest padding

Types XXI, XXII, and XXIII fronts:

Front

Chest pieoe

Chest padding

Type XXIV fronts:

Chest piece

Chest padding

Type XXV fronts:

Chest piece

Shoulder piece felt

Not properly positioned or omitted Not quilted or stitched as directed

Wedge piece omitted (types XXII and XXIII only) Stay omitted (type XXI only)

Not properly positioned or omitted Shoulder Diece not DroDerlv DOSitiOned or omitted Not

Not Not

Not Not

Not Not quilt~d or stitched properly positioned quilted as directed properly positioned quilted or stitched properly positioned quilted or stitched

Wedge piece omitted Spread of wedge opening as-directed or omitted or omitted as directed or omitted as directed not as specified Shoulder piece interlining not properly positioned or omitted

Not positioned properly Rows of stitching not as specified or less than 3/8 or ❑ore than 3/0 inch apart

U.Q.3 Packaging examination. The fully packaged end items shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of chipping containers. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully packaged. The inspection level shall be S-2 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 2.5.

Examine Defect

Marking (exterior Omitted; incorrect; illegible; of improper and interior) size, location, sequence, or ❑ethod of application

Materials Any component missing, damaged, or not as specified

Workmanship Inadequate application of components, such as incomplete sealing or closure of flap, improper taping, loose strapping, or inadequate stapling

Bulged or distorted container

Content Number per container is more or less than required

Net weight exceeds ❑aximum specified

Q.Q.4 Palletization examination. The fully packaged and palletized end items shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of palletized unit loads. The sample unit shall be one palletized unit load, the AQL, expressed in fully packaged. The inspection level shall be S-1 and terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 6.5.

Examine

Finished dimensions

Palletization

Weight

Marking

Defect

Length, width, or height exceeds specified maximum requirement

Pallet pattern not as specified Interlocking of loads not as specified Load not bonded as specified

Exceeds maximum lead limits

Omitted; incorrect; illegible; of improper size, location, sequence, or method of application

MIL-c-15065J

5. PACKAGIWG

5.1 Preservation. Preservation shall be level A or Commercial as specified (see 6.2).

5.1.1 Level A preservation. Twenty pairs of fronts of one type and size only shall be neatly stacked, with every five pairs reversed, and securely tied with cotton tape or twine.

5.1.2 Commercial preservation. Fronts shall be preserved in accordance with

ASTM D 3951.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level B or Commercial as specified (see 6.2).

5.2.1 Level B packing. Fronts of one type and size only, preserved as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in a snug-fitting fiberboard shipping container conforming to style RSC-L, type CF (variety SW) or SF, class domestic, grade 275 of PPP-B-636. The inside of each shipping container shall be fitted with a box liner conforming to type CF, class domestic, variety DW, grade 275 of PPP-B-636. Each container shall have the contents completely covered on the top and bottom with a sheet of 30-pound minimum basis weight kraft paper conforming to A-A-203. Each shipping container shall be closed in accordance with method II as specified in the appendix of PPP-B-636, except that the inspection shall be in accordance with 4.4.3. The weight of contents of each shipping container shall not exceed 65 pounds.

5.2.2.1 Weather-resistant fiberboard containers. When specified (see 6.2), the shipping container shall be grade V3C, V3S, or V4S fiberboard box fabricated in accordance with PPP-B-636 and closed in accordance with ❑ethod III as specified in the appendix of the container specification, except that the inspection shall be in accordance with 4.Q.3.

5.2.3 Commercial packins. Fronta, preserved as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in accordance with ASTM D 3951.

5.3 Palletization. men specified (see 6.2), fronts, packed aa specified in 5.2, shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet in accordance with load type Ia of MIL-STD-147. Pallet type shall be type I (4-way entv), tYPe ~, or tYPe V in accordance with MIL-STD-147. Pallets shall be fabricated from wood groups I, II, III, or IV of MIL-STD-731. Each prepared load shall be bonded with primary and secondary straps in accordance with bonding ❑eans C and D or film bonding ❑ eans F or G. Pallet pattern shall be number 3 in accordance with the appendix of MIL-STD-147. Interlocking of loada shall be effected by reversing the pattern of each course.

5.4 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or purchase order, unit packa, shipping containers, and palletized unit loads shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129 or ASTM D 3951, as applicable.

I

6. NUTES

(This section be helpful, but contains information of s general or explanatory nature that may is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The fronts are intended for use as interlinings for dress clothlng for maIe and female personnel of the Department of Defense.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

c.

d.

e.

f.

g.

h.

Title, number, and date of this specification.

Type and size required (see 1.2 and note below).

Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.1.1 and 2.2).

When s first article is required (see 3.1, 4.3, snd 6.3) .

Availability of patterns (see 3.4.3 and 3.4.4).

Levela of preservation and packing (see 5.1 and 5.2).

When weather-resistant grade fiberboard shipping container are required for level B packing (see 5.2.2.1).

When palletization is required (see 5.3).

NOTE: Types 1, III, IV, XVIII, and XXV for Army clothing; types VI, VII, XIV, XVI XIX, XX, and XXISffor Navy clothing; typee IX through XIII and XV for Marine Corps clothing; and types XVII, XXI, XXII and XXIII for Coast Guard clothing.

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it shall be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should also include specific instructions in acquisition documents reuardinR arrangement for selectiOn, inspectionP and aPPrOval of the first artic~e. -

6.4 Sample. For accesa to samples, addrees

issuing the invitation for bide or request for

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Clothing components Dress c1othing Interlinings Men’s clothing Overcoats Women’s clothing the contracting actiVity proposal.

6.6 Changes from previous issue. The margins of this specification sre marked with asterisks to indicate where changes (additions,modifications, corrections, deletiona) from the previous issue were made. This was done as a convenience only and the Government assumes no liability whatsoever for any inaccuracies in these notations. Bidders and contractors are cautioned to evaIuate the requirements of irrespective of the marginal issue.

Custodians:

Army - CL Navy - NU

Review activities:

Army - MD Navy - MC, CG

DLA - CT

thfa document based on the entire content notations and relationship to the last previous

Preparing activity:

Army - CL

(Project 8315-0343)

(LEF7SDE sAJowN)

//VS/D.E 0UT51DE

/=Rcw7 FRONT “., FIGURE 1. Coat front, type I for coats, men’s tropical and serge, polyester/wool, Army Green 344 (ARMY).

49— l-l

/~N5~D7E OUT..SI$D~/ .

FIGURE 2. Coat front, type III for overcoat, man’s, Army Green 44, removable liner (ARMY)..‘–—– ‘– with

//vslD.E OU 731DE

F~NT FRCY’V< ,----

FIGURE 3. COat front; ty~ IV for C0at9, women’s, wool and polyester/wool (ARMY).

I

CAK3-7PZfc.ff (23x /-%/7--77%?.

JilL/

;~i~%%hLU/17J

/x2’2?E A7G!!7 047.5)!![AfG!!7

FIGURE 4. Coat front, type VI, for coat, manqs, pOlyester/wool coat, man!s, WOO1, winter (NAVY).

//UJ/DE%’c??r ou73-/DE /%G!/Y7-

I

FIGURE 5. Coat fI’Oflt,type VII for uniform, man‘s, aviation working

(green) (single-breasted)(NAVY). ‘-

I 53_

/ WEDGE PIECE (

LOCATION FOR%

t

51ZE MARKING

OUTSIDE FRC -r J

Zy51DE FRONT

CHEST PIEcE

,@~slc M=@

FIGURE 6.

Coat fronts, types IX and X for coats, man’s, service (with belt)

(MARINE CORpS). ““ ‘-”- ‘- ‘– ‘= “-” ‘– ‘— -- -

54 I

WEDGE iI,ECE

I

FELf ~tib&

DART STAi

(POLY/COTTO

L OUTSIDE RiGHT

-m (“

BOOY (BASIC NATERIAL)

FELT PADDING

WEDGE PIECE

I -COVERING <tioLY/coTToNCLOTH), ‘

ST PI

I

FELT PADDING,

:OkNiZi”REiNFOiCENENT>

(HAIR CLOTH)

CONSTRUCTION DETAIL

UPPER FRONT CORNERS

LOCATION FOR

- SIZE NARKING \

DART STAY

(POLY/COTTON CLOTH)

I iONT OUTSIDE LEFT FRoNT

ELT PADDING

iJOLY/COTTON cHEST PIECE POL+/COTTON

CLOTHING (WAIR CLOTH

COVERINGS

CLOTH

COVERINGS

INSIDE R1611TFRONT

INSIDE LEFi FRONT

FIGURE 7. Coat front: type XI, fOr COat, man‘s, wOO1-gZbardine, blue dress (MARINE CORPS).

— L O@T/Off .=O@— f/Z,? ,u,f,?x/N6

I

FIGURE 8. Coat front: type XII for.ove~

‘5”A M SZAY

Loa T/o/YFOR 5

SIZE HARKIIVG

0/4 LEF7_ ANP

)716HT FRoIw=f l/VS/DE OUTSIDE

. <OTE: ZEFTERONTO!Y 5170@ RIGHTFROLVTsAME_ ./ --—. — .—--—- ‘-- FIGURE 9. Coat front: type XIII and XV for coat, woman’s: wool, sergeL green polyester-wool; green and blue gabardine (MARINE CORPS).

I

@7-sx2- FXZ??T/Ns/&!! %nAv---- —. /

FIGURE 10. Coat front, type XIV for overcoat, man‘s, (officer’s type) (NAVy).

I .58

Side Front

Inside Front I

Outside Front

I FIGURE 11. Coat fronts: type XVI, for coat, woman’s, blue dress (NAVY).

I

I E

L@/].

INSIDE FRoNT OUTSIDE FRONT

FIGURE 12. Coat fronts, type XVII, for coat man’s, polyester/wool, serge

(COAST CIIARD’).

60——

Sh..4’L4 Piece shoulderReinforcmenz

FIGURE 13.

Inside?ronc OutsideF&int

~~FLo?727G

L __ ....<!!!5Y P%CE . .

.ChestPiece

Coat fronts: type XVIII, for coat, men’s, tropical,and serge, polyester/wool, Army Green 344, fusible (ARMY).

I

&l_

~Chesc Piece

Chest

Shoulder

Body

Y

FIGURE 14. Coat fronts: type XIX, for overcoat, man!s enlisted (NAVY) .

FIGURE 15.

NIL-C-15065J

Body

Coat fronts: type XX, for overcoat, woman’s enlisted (NAVy).

FIGURE 16.

Fe~t (ChestPikce) piece

Coat fronts: type XXI, for coat, woman’s, dress (COAST GUARD).

I 64

K- Wedge Piece

Chest Piece

Body kpaddiw

Darc

Padding

FIGURE 17.

Coat fronts: type XXII, for topcoat, man!s polyester, elastique(COAST GUARD).

——- -a. . . -m ——_ -

I

Chest s Wedge Piece

Chest Piece

‘hO”lderpi

Inside Front Outside Front

FIGURE 18. Coat fronts: tYPe XXIII, for overcoat, man’s,reefer (COAST GUARD).

66——

! Body

Chest

Padding

I t

FIGURE 19. Coat fronts: type XXIV, for uniform,woman-S aviation, working, green (NAVY)

-67_

MIL-C-15065J I

Shoulder Wedae -~ I

-. ,J --- ...-- interliningsnou Leer PICLC r Shoulder

Shou Lder piec.

padding wedge

Inside Front Outside Front

CHEST PIECE

.- x “

FIGURE 20. Coat fronts: type Xxv,for cOat, woman’s.classic design, Dolyegter/wool, AG-344 fusible (ARMy).

‘—”68

STANDARDIZATION 00CUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPCSAL

(seeInmuctims - ReverseSide)

00 CUWENT NuMOE R 2. oOcuueNT TITLE

!IL-c-15065J Coat Fronts NAME OF SUBMITTING ORGANIZATION 4. lVPE 0$ ORGANIZATION (Nab -)

❑ VENDOR

•1 uSE ~

ADORE6S (3rm,~C4tX c7tati,Z)? CamGl

❑ MANUFAC1UF4tifl

•1

OTHER (SPCCIO):

PIIOOLE9A fiREAS

.’P”q@l Numb.. d W..dl”q:

b. Rwm”-dd Wordl”m

<. 11.-/,lo”UaUa for Rocm-d.,, on.

3EMARxS

NAME OF SUBMITTErl (h,!. rhl. Ml) . OMlond b. WOI!K TELEPHoNE MUU9ER ,hwhdo Am.

cd I - Oc.tk.m.l

*AILINO 400RESS 191mt, Clti. Shin, ZIP C&) - -,IO,U 8. oATE OF SUSMISION (i’ YMMDUj m SO=m ● -**

I