MCRUNNING PANT FQSE PD 08-06A.pdf

FQSE PD-08-06A

February 25, 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

Marine Corps Running Suit - Pants

This purchase description is approved for use by the Defense Supply Center Philadelphia and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for the physical fitness pants. The pants are intended for wear by personnel of the Marine Corps.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The pants shall be of one type in the following sizes:

Xshort Short Regular Long X-long

XX-Small XX-Small

X-Small X-Small

Small Small Small Small

Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium

Large Large Large Large

X-large X large X-large

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First Article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Description. The lined pants shall have an elastic waist with drawcord, air vents at side seam, two side pockets made from self fabric, and a straight leg cut with knee articulation, and shall have a straight leg style with slide fasteners at the leg openings. The front left pant leg shall have a silver (non-reflective) heat transfer of the Marine Corps Eagle, Globe, and Anchor (EGA) symbol, (see figure 2 for placement). The text “USMC” shall be applied as a heat transfer in scarlet (SRI 484 CC) and gold (SRI 143 CC). The solid scarlet lettering with gold outline shall be located on the front right pant leg. The pants shall be visibly reflective and shall meet or exceed the reflectivity requirements contained herein. There shall be 1/4 inch reflective silver piping on the leg openings slide fasteners and there shall be a ½ inch reflective silver tape at the side vent openings at the hip.

FQSE/PD 08-06

3.2.1 Heat transfer placement. The Marine Corps Eagle, Globe, and Anchor (EGA) symbol shall be placed 2 ½ inches down from the top of the waistband and 2 ¾ inches from the side seam. The text “USMC” shall be in the Marine Corps custom Hercules font. The lettering shall be placed 1 5/8 inches from the outseam. The top of the “U” shall be 13 ¼ inches from the bottom hem and the bottom of the “C” shall be 6 1/8 inches from the bottom hem The lettering shall be configured to be read vertically, evenly spaced, and with the height not exceeding 8 inches.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The 100% Nylon material shall be Perseus with Nanosphere, or equal.

The color shall be Belleau Wood Green shade 523. The pants shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I.

TABLE I– Exterior Material

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Weight (oz./sq.yd.) 2.9 +/-.2 oz/sq yd ASTM D3776 Option C

Breaking strength (lbs.)

Warp

Filling

100 Min.

130 Min.

ASTM D5034

Tearing strength (lbs.)

4.0 Min.

6.5 Min.

ASTM-D-1424

Dimensional stability (max.)

6.2%

1.5%

AATCC-135

Table I, method 3, IIIA, iii

Colorfastness to Laundering 4 Min. AATCC-61 Test 1A

Water Repellency: Spray Test

Initial

After 5 launderings

AATCC-22

AATCC-135/AATCC-22

Table I, method 3, IIIA, iii

Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon

Resistance Test

Initial

After 5 launderings

Pass 5

AATCC-118

AATCC 135/AATCC-118

Drying Time Max 20 minutes Internal Natick Test1

* One time initial testing to be performed at the beginning of the production contract only.

Note 1: Internal Natick test (Drying Time)

1. Fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65 +/- 2% RH and 21 +/- 1o

C (70 +/- 2o F) for a minimum of four hours before testing.

2. Test three specimens from each sample. Each specimen consists of a 2” x 2” piece cut wearing gloves. The long dimension should be cut parallel to warp direction. Mark each specimen for identification as a part of the sample set.

3. Weight the conditioned sample using a laboratory balance, accurate to 0.1 g.

4. Place 100ml of distilled or reverse osmosis water into a 250ml beaker.

5. Submerge one specimen in the beaker for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged under the water to insure complete wetting.

6. Remove from the specimen and sandwich it between two pieces of unused blotter paper and pass it through the wringer. Leave the piece sandwiched in the wet blotters.

Repeat this process for the remaining two specimens of the same sample.

7. Weigh the blotted specimens one at a time.

8. Record the weight as wet weight.

9. Hang each sample separately to dry in a location that is in conditions of 65 +/- 2% RH and 21 +/- 1oC (70 +/- 2oF).

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Moisture vapor transmission

Inverted (min.)

8500g/m2/24 hour, Min.

ASTM E96

Test “BW”

* Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon

Resistance Test

100 launderings

Initial

Performed once

(see * below)

Pass 5

Pass 5

Pass 5

Pass 5

Pass 5

Pass 4

Pass 4

Pass 4

Pass 4

AATCC-118

AATCC-135 (3) (III) (A) iii

*Water Repellency: Spray Test

100 launderings

Initial

Performed once

(see * below)

100, 100, 100

100, 100, 100

100, 100, 100

100, 100, 100

100, 100, 100

100, 100, 100

100, 100, 100

90, 90, 90

90, 90, 90

90, 90, 90

90, 90, 90

AATCC-22

AATCC-135 (3) (III) (A) iii

10. Weight the sample to the nearest 0.1g every 5 minutes recording each weight, until completely dry.

11. This is repeated until all the specimens return to their original dry weight. At this time the overall drying time is calculated by averaging the dry time of all three specimens.

Testing.:

The basic material and lining cloth shall be tested for characteristics listed in Tables I and II, using the methods of testing specified therein. The sample unit shall be 3 yards, full width. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

LOT SIZE (YARDS) SAMPLE SIZE (SAMPLE UNITS)

800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and Over 5

3.3.2. Lining. The lining for the pants and air vents shall be warp knit mesh, Style XA97A, 100% AMY/Sorbtek Polyester or equal. The color shall be black. The material shall conform to the requirements in TABLE II.

TABLE II: PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR LINING MATERIAL

Characteristic

Requirement Test Method

Weight (oz./sq yd.)

3 +/- .3 oz/ sq yd. ASTM-D3776 Option C

Width, meshes per inch (min.)

Length, meshes per inch (min.)

Visual 1/

Bursting strength (lbs., min.) 96 min. ASTM D 3787

Dimensional stability (max.)

knit material only

Wales

Courses

6.0 %

6.0 %

AATCC-135

Colorfastness to Laundering

4 AATCC-61 Test 1A

Drying Time

30 minutes max Internal Natick Method 1

Moisture Wicking

15 cm/ 30 max Internal Natick Method 1

Moisture vapor transmission

Inverted (min.)

4000g / m2/24 hour, initial

ASTM E96

Test “B”

Anti-microbial (lining only)

Migratory (initial)

Migratory (25 launderings)

Log 3 or better / 99.9%

Log 3 or better / 99.9%

AATCC 100

AATCC 100

Non-migratory (initial)

Non-migratory ( 25 launderings)

Log 2 or better / 99.0% min.

Log 2 or better / 99.0% min.

ASTM-E 2149

ASTM-E 2149

3.3.3 Reflective Material. All reflective marking material used shall be visible for a distance of at least 100 yards in pre-dawn, dusk, and night conditions when placed within an area of

45 degrees on either side of the centerline of vehicle headlamps on low beams.

Reflective protection shall be 360o around the individual wearing the pants. In addition, reflective materials shall appear reflective at pre-dawn, dusk, and night conditions registering at least 250.0 candelas/lux per square meter or greater at 0.2 degree observation angle and shall exhibit this property through a 45 degree rotation. Reflective materials shall meet these requirements through at least 50 home launderings in cold water (80 degrees F), gentle cycle with mild detergent, dried on low temperature, delicate cycle. The performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance to

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel and

Headwear. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the level 2 category. The testing shall include initial photometric measurements followed by physical testing including abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washings (50 cycles).

Table III Reflective location

Location size

Piping along the leg slide fasteners 1/4 inch width

Side vent opening ½ inch width

3.3.4 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be in accordance with standard commercial practice, the color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material. A silver top thread and black bobbin shall be used to attach the 1/2” reflective to the side vents of the pants. A black bobbin shall also be used for the top stitching around the slide fasteners at the ankle openings. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments, other than those commonly used for commercial threads.

3.3.5 Slide fastener. The slide fasteners shall conform to the specified type of A-A-55634A, and the chain, tape, slider and pull shall be black.

Table IV – Slide fastener

Location Length Type Size Closing

Direction

Ankle opening 7 inches Nonseparating, nonreversible

Continuous element

Type I, style 4

1 – 2 Closes downward

3.3.6 Elastic Webbing. The elastic webbing for the waistband shall be 1-1/2 inches wide, elongation of 120% (+/- 10%), Ashboro style number 125-1011AFO or equal. After the cut length of the webbing has been stretched and maintained at 50% elongation, and then allowed to relax for 10 minutes, the webbing tension set (change in length of the sample) shall not exceed

5%.

3.3.7 Drawcord. The flat, woven draw cord for the waistband shall be 3/16 (+1/32) inch flat soutache with finished ends (aglets) to prevent unraveling. The color shall be black or match the basic fabric. The dyed draw string shall exhibit colorfastness equal to the basic fabric.

The cut lengths required shall be 64 inches for all sizes.

3.4 Labels. A commercial type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the contractor's name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information, as noted below.

"Machine wash, cold water with mild detergent, cold rinse.

Tumble dry low temperature. Do not use bleach, do not iron”.

3.4.1 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials "UPC" must appear beneath the code. The bar code for

NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the item.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the pants shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated:

TABLE V. Pattern Parts List

Pattern Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts

Shell

Left Front PD0806-LEFT_FRONT 1

Right Front PD0806-RIGHT_FRONT 1

Back PD0806-BACK 2

Pocket PD0806-POCKET 4

Lining

Front Liner PD0806-FRONT_LINER 2

Back Liner PD0806-BACK_LINER 2

Vent Liner PD0806-VENT_LINER 2

Templates

Right Front template PD0806-RGHT_FRONT_TM 0

Front Template PD0806-FRONT_TEMPLAT 0

Template Vent PD0806-TEMPLATE_VENT 0

3.6 Finished measurements. The pants shall conform to the finished measurements of Table VI.

TABLE VI

Marine Corps Running Suit – Trouser XXS XS S M L XL Tolerance

½ Waist 10 11 ½ 13 14 ½ 16 17 ½ +3/8

½ Seat 19 ¾ 21 ¼ 22 ¾ 24 ¼ 25 ¾ 27 ¼ +3/8

Inseam

X-Short 28 ½ 28 ½ 28 ½ 28 ½ +½

Short 30 ½ 30 ½ 30 ½ 30 ½ 30 ½ +½

Regular 32 ½ 32 ½ 32 ½ 32 ½ +½

Long 34 ½ 34 ½ 34 ½ 34 ½ +½

X-Long 36 ½ 36 ½ 36 ½ +½

Outseam

X-Short 38 ½ 38 7/8 39 ¼ 39 5/8 +½

Short 41 41 3/8 41 ¾ 42 1/8 42 ½ +½

Regular 44 ¼ 44 5/8 45 45-3/8 +½

Long 46 ¾ 47 1/8 47 ½ 47 7/8 +½

X-Long 49 5/8 50 50 3/8 +½

Pocket Open.

X-Short 7 7 7 7

Short 8 8 8 8 8

Regular 8 8 8 8

Long 8 8 8 8

X-Long 8 8 8

a. ½ Waist – Measure from folded edge to folded edge across middle of elastic waistband.

b. ½ Seat – 7” down from top of waist measure straight across from folded edge to folded edge.

c. Inseam – Measure from crotch joining seam along inseam to bottom edge.

d. Outseam – Measure from top of waist along outseam to bottom edge.

3.7 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Unless otherwise specified, stitch type 301 shall be used for topstitching, edgestitching or stitching visible on the outside of the jacket. For joining seams, stitch type 301 or 401 shall be used. When 301 or 401 are used, stitch type 504 may be used to overedge seams. As an alternate, stitch types 516 or 517 may be used to join and overedge seams. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Any edgestitching shall be

1/16 to 1/8 inch. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. Stitch gauge for edgestitching shall be 10-12 stitches per inch. All other 301 stitching shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching (stitch type 504), the stitches per inch shall be 8-12 stitches per inch. All material edges shall not ravel; edges may be either turned-in, turned-under, or overedged to prevent raveling. Seams required to be forced out, and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more, shall be considered a defect. All seams that junction shall meet within ¼ inch. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least ½ inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than ½ inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. All thread ends shall be trimmed to ¼ inch maximum. After completion, the finished jackets shall be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed.

3.7.1 Repair of stitching. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than ½ inch. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted on jackets.

3.8 Bartacks. Bartacks shall be a minimum of 3/8” in length and consist of a minimum of 21 stitches.

TABLE VII: Construction Details

Seam Allowance 3/8” on all seams

Stitches Per Inch 10-12 SPI

Top Stitching Three rows of top stitching at waistband evenly spaced, with adequate space for the drawcord.

Double row of top stitching at leg hems 1” and 3/4” from bottom edge

Stitching at side pocket openings 1/4” from folded edge

1/16” around slide fasteners at leg openings

Hem Allowance Clean finish bottom hem with 1” fold up

Side Vents Vents at side seams to finish, length:

6 ½” Sizes XShort 7” Sizes Short 8” Sizes Regular, Long, XLong with ½” wide (finished) reflective tape stitched along front fold. Raw edges of reflective shall not be exposed. Vents shall be bar-tacked at both ends.

Elastic 1 1/2” elastic at waistband

Button Holes ½” vertical buttonholes on either side of center front seam on inside of waistband (7/8” from seam on either side)

Slide fastener

The slide fastener shall be even with the bottom edge of the pants.

Bar-tacks Horizontal bar-tacks at top and bottom of side pocket openings and at top and bottom of side vents.

Leg Zipper Cover ¼” wide reflective tape attached to side front seam at leg opening slide fastener

Darts Stitch from notch to notch 3/8” past drill holes

Four darts at each knee, 2 on each side of leg

Draw Cords Draw cord at inside waistband

Label Top edge of label centered on the inside, attached through the waistband seam.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal

Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the characteristics of this purchase description, and shall conform to the producers own standards and quality assurance practices.

The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.1.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one pant and the lot shall be expressed in units of pants.

5.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5.2 Visual examination. Visual examination shall consist of looking at the quality of overall construction and cleanliness of the garments. The following criteria shall be used as a guide for visual inspection of each production item.

TABLE VIII: Visual Inspection

Examine Defect

Material defects and damages Any smash, multiple float or loose slub, cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole, misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dye streak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place, or shade bar1

Shaded part Variation in shade within an outside part1

Any part required to be cut from one piece of material shaded1

Cleanliness Any spot, streak,, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of the suit which would be visible when worn

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of suit

Thread ends not trimmed throughout pants

Component and assembly Any defective component

Any operation improperly performed

Drawcord Any drawcord caught in hem, casing or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord.

Any end not heat seared, knotted, or sealed

Any drawcord insufficient in length for function

Slide fastener Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, missing or otherwise defective

Length not functional

Accuracy of seaming Seam twisted, pleated, or puckered

Part of jacket caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

Thread breaks not secured

Ends of all seams and stitches, when not caught in other seams or stitching not backtacked

Thread color does not match material

Gage of stitching uneven (seams, hems or top stitching)

Missing, broken or skipped stitches

Open seams note 2

Stitch tension Loose tension in any area more than 2 inches

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching)

Pockets alignment, openings Distance between sides of pocket not accurate

Pocket stitching at top and bottom of opening not clean, any miss-stitching or pulling

Leg Opening Leg openings uneven in length by ½ inch or more3

Bartacks Any bartack insecure, or not serving intended purpose

Any loose, incomplete or broken stitches

Label/tag Not attached in a visible location

Causes damage to the pants

Missing, or illegible

Markings Marine Corps Eagle, Globe and Anchor

(EGA) emblems missing, in the wrong location, exceeding 4 inches in height, not clearly identifiable

Text “USMC” not placed on the front right pant leg, configured to be read vertically, evenly spaced, or with the height exceeding

8 inches

Heat transfer text “MARINES” and

“USMC” not in agreed to fonts

Reflectivity Not present4

Heat transfers Placement inaccurate, Colors not printed correctly, transfer is peeling, crackling, or incomplete

Color Pants not Belleau Wood Green, shade not adhering to established color standard

Required Design Attributes Missing

NOTE 1: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of three feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

NOTE 2: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

NOTE 3: Evenness can be determined by comparing measurements or companion parts OR by aligning parts and measuring the difference in lengths as described below. When evenness defects are found, the uniform shall be laid flat on a measuring surface and the difference in lengths recorded.

- Leg Opening – shall be even with a clean even straight hem. Leg hem shall be aligned, and visually inspected for evenness of length.

NOTE 4: A full evaluation of the design’s reflective properties will be evaluated through review of the certificates of conformance submitted.

5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

7. NOTES.

7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available on line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil./quicksearch/ or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

7.2 Source of non-Government documents:

(Application for copies of the AATCC Technical Manual should be addressed to the

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1 Davis Dr., P.O. Box

12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709-2215 or www.aatcc.org.)

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and

Materials. 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA J 9428.)

(Application for copies shall be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1819

L St NW, Washington DC 20036 or www.ansi.org)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

7.3 Equal item. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting office for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil./quicksearch/ http://www.dodssp.daps.mil/

7.4 Suggested Source of Supply.

Duro Textiles LLC Basic material 110 Chace St.

Fall River, MA 02724 508-675-0101

Apex Mills Lining material 168 Doughty Boulevard Inwood, NY 11096 516-239-4400

Safe Reflections Inc. Logo letter decals 3220 Granada Ave. N. Ste 100 Heat Transfers St. Paul, MN 55128 Silver Reflective piping and tape 651-773-8199

Norman Shatz Company Cord locks 3570 Street Road Bensalem, PA 19020 215-245-5511

Asheboro Elastics Corporation Waist elastic 150 North Park Street P.O. Box 1143 Asheboro, NC 27203 336-629-2626

Burt Trimmings Co. Inc. Waist drawstring 519 8th Ave Fl 24 New York, NY 10018-6506 212-268-4152

YKK Inc. Slide fasteners David M. Goodman 230 Windsor Ave.

Suite 204 Narberth, PA 19072 610-667-5589