Standard Ball Cap - Rev. B- 1.doc

CR/PD 11- 132B-1

July 21, 2011

Superseding

CR/PD 11-132B

June 29, 2011

CR/PD 11-132B-1

PURCHASE DESCRIPTON

U. S. COAST GUARD

CAP, BALL, STANDARD

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a standard unisex ball cap for use by all members of the Coast Guard.

1.2 Classification. The caps shall be of one type in three sizes (Small, Medium, and Large). Each of the sizes is adjustable by means of a rear hook and loop adjustment strap.

2. REQUIREMENTS

2.1 Guide sample. Samples when furnished are solely for guidance and information to the contractor or vendor. Variations from this purchase description may appear in the sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 3.3).

2.3 Materials.

2.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the caps shall be dyed to match the Standard Sample for CG Blue 3362 and conform to the requirements specified in CG/PD 04-9407A, Cloth, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend dated 13 June 2011.

2.3.2 Visor. The three layer constructed visor shall have six rows of 301 lock stitch through all plies of material ¼ inch apart following the contour of the outer arc. The outer row of stitching starts 3/8 inch from the outer edge of the visor liner. The visor shall have a pre-curved polyethylene liner conforming to Carr Textiles Style Number MC1045-B-6 or equal. The depth of the visor shall be 2- 7/8 +/- 1/16 inch when measured from the inside of the center front crown seam where the crown joins the visor along an imaginary line that is perpendicular to the outermost edge of the visor. The finished visor shall be 0.089 – 0.092 inch thick. The fabric for the outer layers (top and bottom) of the visor shall conform to the requirements specified in 2.3.1.

2.3.3 Thread. The thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be cotton, commercial size Ticket No. 40 or polyester-covered, polyester core, commercial size Ticket No. 50. As an alternate, Ticket No. 70 (Tex size 31- to 35) may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. The color of the thread shall be black.

2.3.4 Front Crown. The front crown shall be reinforced with a white 100% polyester monofilament fusible stiffener (buckram) conforming to Carr Textile Corporation Item Number 1226-FUS. The stiffener shall be adhered to the front two panels of the cap in accordance with the fusing instructions provided by the manufacturer. As an alternate, the front crown may be reinforced with a 100% polyester single weave monofilament buckram coated on one side with heat applied adhesive conforming to Carr Textiles EVA1 or equal.

2.3.5 Sweatband. All sweatbands shall have a finished width of 1-1/4 inches. The preferred sweatband shall conform to Carr Textile Corporation Item No. I 18/4-114-BLK-R. It shall consist a black 7 to 7 ½ ounce polyester/cotton twill outer layer. The middle layer shall be white or gray polyester foam having a minimum thickness of 0.103 inch. The inner layer shall be a white, black or grey nonwoven felt. The sweatband shall be sewn with four (4) rows of stitching with a fold that does not wrap the complete back of the sweatband. Two alternative sweatbands may be used. The first alternative shall conform to Carr Textile Corporation Item No. S 18/4-114-BLK-R which consists of a black spun polyester outer layer, a 0.103 inch thick foam middle layer and a black, grey or white nonwoven felt as the inner layer. It shall be sewn with four rows of stitching with a fold that does not wrap the complete back of the sweatband. The second alternative sweatband shall conform to Carr Textile Item No. Y7N which consists of a 7 ounce 100% cotton, 100% polyester, or a polyester/cotton twill weave outer layer, a middle layer consisting of a non-clickable polyester foam having an approximate thickness (before compression) of 1/8 inch and an inner layer consisting of a 2.5 ounce per square yard black, grey, or white non-woven fabric. The second alternative sweatband shall be hemmed with two rows of 301 stitching 1/8 inch from each edge. The outer layer of all sweatbands shall be black.

2.3.6 Hook and Loop – The hook and loop shall conform to Type I, class 1 of A-A-55126 except that it shall be extruded hook, nylon base, low profile “wash & wear” YKK Style HDPE (SA200) for the hook and YKK Style NYL-LP for the loop or equal commercial type. The color of the hook and loop shall be black.

2.4 Design and Construction. The cap shall consist of 6 panels constructed from fabric conforming to the basic material specified in 2.3.1. The cap shall have a visor front and an open back with a hook and loop closure. The visor shall be centered on the front of the cap such that the base of the center front crown seam is equidistant from the left and right side of the cap where the visor joins the base of the cap. The center front crown seam shall be perpendicular to the base of the visor. The height of the front crown shall be 4-1/2 +/- ¼ inches as illustrated in Figure 2. The height may be determined by placing the cap on a flat surface and measuring the distance from the flat surface to the intercept of an imaginary plane parallel to the top of the cap.

The finished hook and loop adjustment strap shall be ¾ +/- 1/8 inch wide. Each half of the exposed adjustment strap shall finish 4 +/- 1/4 inches long. As the cap is worn, the right side adjustment strap shall have the hook side facing away from the wearer’s head and the loop strap shall have the loop side of the closure facing towards the wearer’s head. The adjustment straps will be faced with the basic material which will be folded over so that both raw ends are sewn between the sweatband and the opening in the back of the cap. The ends of each strap shall be finished with a ½ inch bartack. The straps shall be sewn with single needle stitching at 5 – 7 stitches per inch. There shall be no raw edges. Each half of the adjustment strap consists of two plies of basic material plus a layer of hook or loop tape.

For “Medium” sized caps, the minimum overlap of the hook and loop straps shall be 2-3/4 inches. For “Small” and “Large” sized caps, the minimum overlap of the hook and loop straps shall be 2-3/8 inches.

The cap shall have a self covered button at the top juncture of the six panels secured with a corrosion resistant metal rivet.

The front of the cap shall have “U.S. COAST GUARD” embroidered with polyester thread in 1/2 inch high gold colored letters as specified in 2.6.2. The lettering shall be centered side to side on the upper half of front crown as illustrated in Figure 1.

The interior crown seams shall be covered with a non-biased 70% acetate, 30 % nylon brushed tricot tape or a polyester/ cotton seam tape. The color of the tape shall be black. The tape shall be attached to the crown using a 3/8 inch gauge chain stitch seam. The seam tape shall have a finished width of 9/16 inch. The 6 panels shall be topstitched with 7 to 9 stitches per inch using a double needle 401 stitch type 3/16 inch from center. The visor shall have a reinforcement stitch (Pro Stitch) across the base of the front panels extending to the joining seam of each back panel. The caps shall be assembled with a seam allowance of 5/32 and ¼ inch.

2.5 Sewn eyelets. The cap shall have one heavy duty sewn eyelet centered on each of the six panels, positioned 2- 3/4 inches from the center of the top button. The diameter of the eyelet hole shall be 3/32 to 4/32 inch. The eyelets shall be sewn with thread matching the shade of the basic material. The eyelets shall be clean cut with no loose ends. Thread ends shall be on the inside of the cap. There shall be a minimum of 40 stitches per eyelet determined by counting the number of needle penetrations in the outside row of eyelet stitching.

2.6 Embroidery.

2.6.1 Embroidery positioning. The bottom of the arched “U.S. COAST GUARD” lettering shall be 2-7/8 +/- 1/8 inch above the crown joining seam when measured at the center front of the crown-to-visor joining seam. The distance from outer edge of the letter “U” to the outer edge of the letter “D” shall be 5 +/- 1/16 inches. The embroidered letters shall be ½ inch high in a font equal to Tajima “Block Caps”.

2.6.2 Embroidery thread. The embroidery thread shall be 100% polyester, size 40, 243 denier. The thread shall match DOD Heraldic Yarns, Yellow, HC, Cable No. 67103 or A &E Goldenrod 50364. There shall be a minimum of 2,241 embroidery stitches in the Tajima “Block Caps” font for the “U. S. COAST GUARD” embroidered lettering. The width of each stitch shall be 2mm.

2.7 Sizes. The cap shall be furnished in the following sizes:

2.8 Identification label - Each cap shall have a white combination size and identification label sewn 2 +/- 1/2 inches from the hook side adjustment strap attached during the top stitching of the sweatband to the bottom crown of the cap. The label shall contain the following information:

Size: Small 6 3/8 - 7 (Example) Contract number:

Manufacturer’s Name:

Month/Year of Manufacture: 09/11 (Example) No other labels are authorized.

3. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

3.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspection set forth in the purchase description where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

3.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 3.3)

2. Acceptance criteria (see 3.4)

3.3 First article inspection. When required, the first article submitted in accordance with 2.2 shall be inspected for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, appearance and dimensional requirements and in accordance with the defects specified in Table I.

3.4 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria will be performed as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.5 End item examination. The caps shall be examined for the defects listed in Table I. The lot size will be expressed in units of caps. The sample unit will be one cap.

3.6 Examination for size. Any cap that does not conform to the size range listed on its label shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

TABLE I. VISUAL DEFECTS

Examine

Defect

Classification

Major Minor

Material and workmanship

Any hole, cut, tear, burn, needle chew or weakening defect.

X Any part shaded or visible mend.

Cleanness

Any noticeable spot or stain; thread ends not trimmed.

Cutting

Any component part not cut in accordance with patterns or specified requirements.

Examine

Defect

Classification

Major Minor

Components and assembly

Any component part or operation omitted or not as specified.

Embroidery

Any letters or letter segments not conforming to the dimensions listed.

Not complete coverage, background cloth or underlay stitches visible, number of stitches not as specified.

Embroidery misspelled

Broken or skipped stitches

Puckering affecting appearance

Blocking

Any required; omitted or not properly performed

Visor

Material not as specified or not securely attached.

Binding

Not securely caught in stitching; tight, or twisted.

Sweatband

Not specified material.

Not constructed as specified or not attached as specified.

Omitted.

Hook and loop closure

Not specified material, not properly attached, or not properly finished. .

Omitted.

Labels

Omitted

Incorrectly attached or illegible

Top button

Omitted

Not properly attached, wrong type, or loose.

4.PACKAGING AND PACKING

Packaging and packing shall be in accordance with ASTM D3951( Standard Practice for Commercial Packing). Shipping cartons shall be marked in accordance with 5.1.6.3 of ASTM D3951 and shall include contract number and item description. Detailed packaging and packing requirements shall be as specified by the procuring agency.

Figure 1 Embroidery Positioning Guide

Note; Figure 1 is not to scale. It is furnished for informational purposes only. The style, type, and font of the embroidered letters shall conform to the requirements specified in Section 2 of this document.

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