ODU T-shirt Revised 30 May 2008.doc

CR/PD 04-099-D

INCH-POUND

Revised 30 May 2008 Superseding CR/PD 04-099-C 4 April 2008

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

T‑SHIRT, OPERATIONAL, US COAST GUARD

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S. Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Homeland Security.

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for a 100% cotton T-shirt to be worn with the U.S. Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The T‑shirt shall be provided in the following sizes:

XX-Small, X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. The T‑shirt shall have short sleeves, a crew neck collarette that shall finish 1 + 1/8 inch wide, and hemmed sleeves and bottom. The sleeves shall be hemmed approximately 3/4 inch wide and the bottom hem shall be approximately 7/8 inch wide. All seams shall be overedge or cover stitched. The body of the shirt shall have no side seams; i.e., the shirt shall be made from one continuous piece of circular knit fabric with a sewn on collarette, shoulder seams, armhole seams, and sleeve seams. The inside of the shoulder and back of the collar seams (shoulder to shoulder) shall be reinforced with binding tape 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide. An identification/size/care label shall be located at or near the center back collar seam. The color shall be within the shade tolerances established for CG Blue 3362. The front of the shirt shall have U.S. COAST GUARD embroidered in white uppercase military block letters over the left breast. The lettering shall be as specified in 3.3.3.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance. For access to samples, address the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The body cloth shall be made from singles or 2 ply 100% combed cotton yarn, knitted on a circular machine with a jersey stitch. The cloth shall be preshrunk and conform to the requirements specified in Table I.

3.3.1.1 Collar. The material for the collarette shall be l x l true rib knit made of 100% combed cotton yarns that meet or exceed the physical requirements of the basic material. The collarette shall contain Spandex yarns to provide dimensional stability and elastic recovery equal to or greater than that of the Standard Sample.

TABLE I. ‑ Material requirements

Body Cloth

Dimensional stability (max.)

Home laundering:

Wales Courses 8.0% 5.5%

AATCC 135 4/

Fabric yarn count: (min)

Wales per inch

Courses per inch

ASTM D3887

Body cloth and collarette

Colorfastness to:

Laundering Light (40 hours)

Crocking

Perspiration 4 1/ 5/ 3 - 4 1/ 3/

3.5 2/

3.5 1/ AATCC 61 Test 1A

AATCC-16 E

AATCC 8

AATCC 15

1/ AATCC Grey Scale for Color Change 2/ AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale

3/ Exposure period of 40 hours

4/ Washing and drying conditions, 1/IV/Aiii., 5 cycles 5/ Using 10 steel balls and 3 laundering cycles with drying after each cycle. Evaluation of the multifiber cloth for color transfer shall be made only on the cotton fiber float.

6/ No materials having a tendency to cause latent tendering or yellowing of the cloth shall be used in ay of the dyeing or finishing operations. Resin finishes are prohibited.

7/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the statement requirement.

3.3.2 Thread. The thread shall be 100 percent cotton, No. 70, 2 or 3 ply, or No. 30, 3 ply. As an alternate, a 2 ply cotton or staple polyester-covered, polyester core thread, No. 100, 2-ply may be used. The color of the thread shall be a close match to CG Blue 3362. The threads shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II.

TABLE II - Thread requirements

100 percent cotton

Weight, (yds./lb.)

No. 30 No. 70

Breaking strength (lbs., min.)

No. 30 No. 70 Colorfastness to laundering

No. 30 No. 70 7,000 to 8,200 14,200 to 16,500

3.0

1.2

Class 4 1/ 2/

Class 4 1/ 2/

ASTM D - 1907

ASTM D – 1907

ASTM D – 1578

ASTM D – 1578

AATCC 61

Cotton or staple polyester-covered, polyester core

Weight,(yds./lb.)

Breaking strength (lbs.,min.)

Colorfastness to laundering 15,750 (min.)

2.2 Class 4 1/ 2/

ASTM D 1907

ASTM D 1378

1/ AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.

2/ The test specimen shall consist of 2 to 6 grams of the applicable material, so held together as to form a unit for testing. The laundering cycle shall be 30 minutes with the container and contents maintaining a temperature of 158 degrees F +/- 4 degrees F.

3.3.3 Embroidery. The letters U.S. COAST GUARD shall be embroidered on the upper left chest quadrant in white, bold, Helvetica (military block upper case) letters using bright, continuous filament rayon or polyester embroidery yarn having abundant luster. The midpoint of the lettering shall be centered vertically between the base of the collar and the sleeve/armhole joining seam and horizontally between the center of the neck opening and the sleeve armhole seam. The thread shall be size 40 conforming to A & E’s signature color number 50081 or equal. The yarn shall show good colorfastness to light, laundering and wet dry cleaning. The U.S. COAST GUARD lettering shall be 5.3 inches wide by 0.63 inches in height. The nominal width of letters is 5/16 inch. There shall be a minimum of 3,840 stitches with 35 stitches per square inch. A white, lightweight nonwoven shall be used as a backing material to provide body, minimize puckering, and reinforcement for the embroidery operation. The legend “U.S. COAST GUARD” shall be parallel to the bottom hem of the shirt. The lettering on the face of the garment shall be free of all connecting or joining stitches. All letters shall be neat and crisp with no protruding ends. The letters shall give the appearance of being individually embroidered. Loose threads, raw ends, or ragged edges are prohibited.

3.4 Labels

3.4.1 Label/marking. A commercial type label shall include size, manufacturer’s name, contract number, fiber content and laundering (care) information. The lettering shall be black. The letters shall be bold, bright, and clearly printed. The lettering shall have "good "colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC-61.

3.4.2 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar‑coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, or the bar code and UPC code tags may be attached as a sticker to the outside of the individual poly bag. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner.

3.5 Figures. Figures 1 is furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.6 Finished measurements. The T‑shirt shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Table III.

TABLE III - Finished measurements (inches)

Length

(B) Armhole (C) Shoulder

(D) Sleeve Opening(E)

(H)

Method of measuring: (See Figure 1).

(A) 1/2 Chest: Lay t-shirt flat but not stretched. Measure across from folded edge to folded edge, approximately 1 inch below the armhole.

(B) Back Length: Lay t‑shirt flat but not stretched. Measure from collar joining seam at high point of shoulder to bottom of shirt.

C) Armhole: Lay t-shirt flat but not stretched. Measure from the intersection of top of sleeve and shoulder seam to bottom of underarm seam following curvature of armhole.

(D) Shoulder: Measure from collar seam to shoulder seam.

(E) Sleeve Opening: Lay t‑shirt flat but not stretched. Measure from folded edge to folded edge along bottom of sleeve.

(F) Sleeve Length: Lay t-shirt flat but not stretched. Measure from the intersection of the top of sleeve and shoulder seam to the end of sleeve hem.

(G) Neck Opening: Grasp neckband at center back and center front, forming a straight line, but do not stretch, measure.

(H) Collar Height: Lay t‑shirt flat but not stretched. Measure from edge of collar to joining seam.

3.7 Patterns. Commercial patterns shall be used. They shall conform to the design requirements cited in this document.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this commercial item description and conform to the producer's own standards and quality assurance practices used for similar products offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Visual examination. Each t-shirt shall be examined for the following defects:

Material defects

Any hole, cut, tear, mend, drop stitch, loose knit, miss knit, slub, streak, knitted in waste, permanent fold, pleat or crease; any spot or stain, discoloration or color not as specified, any shaded part, any objectionable odor

Seams and stitching

Loose or tight stitching tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew; any part caught in an unrelated operation or stitching; raw edge, thread breaks, thread ends not removed. Any seam puckered, distorted, pleated, irregular or open.

Workmanship

Any component part omitted, twisted, not specified size, missing, misplaced, or poorly shaped. Measurement of item not as specified; design not as specified. Body of shirt not made from one continuous circular knit fabric.

Labels

Label(s) missing, incorrect, or illegible; bar code or UPC code label omitted or not readable by scanner; human‑readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code label causes damage to the item.

Embroidery Stitching of “U.S. COAST GUARD”- letters misplaced, puckered, broken, snagged, loose thread ends, misaligned, or not as specified. Joining, connecting, or protruding stitches showing. Letters appearing to be joined by a thread or threads. Any evidence of thread or basic material damage.

5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of this document are available from:

U.S. COAST GUARD

Clothing Design and Technical Office

Kansas Street, Building 86

Natick, MA 01760-5004

7.2 Source of non‑Government documents

AATCC Test Methods

(Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709‑2215.)

ASTM Test Methods

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.)

Custodian:

PREPARING ACTIVITY:

U.S. COAST GUARD

CDTO- NATICK, MA

FIGURE 1

T-Shirt, Operational, U.S. Coast Guard

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