GL-PD-21-12 -Boot Combat HW Army Improved 6 December 22 - Final.pdf

GL-PD-21-12

6 December 2022

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

BOOT, COMBAT, HOT WEATHER ARMY, IMPROVED

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a Coyote 498 Hot Weather

Combat Boot for use in both hot weather wet and dry environments as specified in the contract or solicitation.

1.2 Classification. This purchase description covers the following sizes, and widths.

1.2.1 Sizes.

Size: 3 through 16 (whole and half sizes), 17 (whole size only) Widths: Narrow (B) Wide (EE)

Regular (D) X-Wide (EEEE)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

AMSC N/A FSC 8430

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be address to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM-Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications. standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-55093 - Laces, Nylon A-A-55296 - Cloth, Twill, Cotton A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-PRF-3122 - Leather, Cattlehide, for Footwear Uppers, Gusset, Chrome Tanned, Fatliquored MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing, Nylon MIL-W-17337 - Webbing, Textile, Woven Nylon MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-DTL-32439 - Cloth, Duck Textured Nylon

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DRAWINGS

U.S. ARMY, DEVCOM - SOLDIER CENTER

2-1-1635 - Speed Lace Assembly

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army, DEVCOM, Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

OTHER GOVERNMENT DOCUMENTS AND PUBLICATIONS

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 16 CFR Part 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ecfr.gov)

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connection with specification procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.)

2.2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

Standard Test Methods for Rubber Products – Chemical Analysis Standard Test Method for Vulcanized Rubber and Thermoplastic

Elastomers – Tension Standard Test method for Rubber Property-Effect of Liquids Standard Test Method for Tear Strength of Conventional

Vulcanized Rubber and Thermoplastic Elastomers Standard Test Method for Measuring Rubber Deterioration-Cut

Growth Using Ross Flexing Apparatus Standard Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by

Falling Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength of Leather by the

Grab Method Standard Test Method for Rubber Property-Durometer Hardness

ASTM D297

ASTM D412

ASTM D471 -

ASTM D624 -

ASTM D1052 -

ASTM D1424 -

ASTM D1777 -

ASTM D2208 -

ASTM D2240 -

https://www.ecfr.gov/ https://aatcc.org/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://asq.org/

ASTM D3574 - Standard Test Methods for Flexible Cellular Materials-slab, Bonded, and Molded Urethane Foams

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass of Unit Area (weight) of Woven Fabrics

Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test

Standard Test Method for Stitch Tear Strength, Single Hole Standard Test for Tension and Elongation of Elastic Fabrics Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics

(Martindale Abrasion Tester Method) Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Method) Standard Test Method for Rubber Property - Abrasion Resistance

(Rotary Drum Abrader)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org)

SATRA GLOBAL TEST METHODS

SATRA TM1 - Thickness of Leather and Insole Materials SATRA TM64 - Compression set –constant stress method SATRA TM83 - Measurement of the area shape retention and collapsing load of formed toe puff and stiffener materials SATRA TM223 - Floor markings by solings or top pieces

(Copies of these documents are available from SATRA Technology Centre Ltd, Wyndham Way, Telford Way, Kettering, Northants, NN16 8SD, United Kingdom at testmethods@satra.com.)

INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATION FOR STANDARDIZATION (ISO)

ISO 17235 – Leather – Physical and Mechanical Tests – Determination of Softness

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.iso.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

ASTM D3787 -

ASTM D4786 -

ASTM D4964 -

ASTM D4966 -

ASTM D5034 -

ASTM D5963 -

https://www.astm.org/ https://www.astm.org/ https://www.iso.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2 and 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished leather shall match a swatch of cattlehide leather for shade and sueded flesh appearance. Unless otherwise indicated the finished boot materials shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard is referenced when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The finished leather shall match a swatch of cattlehide leather for shade and sueded flesh appearance.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Upper leather. The leather shall be flesh out drum dyed Coyote 498 with color penetrating throughout the thickness of the hide. The leather softness shall be 2.5 millimeters (mm.)

to 3.5 mm. using a 35 mm. aperture and shall meet requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1.2 and 4.4.2. The chrome tannage shall not be visible. The leather for the vamps, outside counter pockets and inside eyelet stays shall conform to MIL-PRF-3122, Type I, Class 4, Treatment A and B. The leather for the outside eyelet stays shall conform to MIL-PRF-3122, Type II, Treatment A.

The following exceptions to MIL-PRF-3122 shall be applicable for the upper leathers:

A. The flesh surface shall be suede to produce a fine uniform nap.

B. The grain surface shall be lightly buffed to remove the surface of the grain only.

C. The finish requirements for the leather shall not apply.

D. The tear strength requirements for the inside and outside eyelet stays shall not apply.

E. The thickness shall be as specified for the cut parts in Table XI.

F. As an option, the outside eyelet stays may conform to MIL-PRF-3122, Type I, Class 4, Treatment A and Treatment B.

3.4.2 Insole. The Strobel lasting board shall be made with a non-woven water repellent polyester material. The Strobel Board shall meet the requirements of Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE I. Insole board performance requirements.

Characteristics Physical Requirements Weight, oz./sq. yd. (±10%) 15.5 Thickness, mm. (min.) 1.5 Tensile Strength, PSI (min.) 1/ 180 MD 180 CD

Bursting Strength, PSI (min.) 400 Elongation, percent (min.) 1/ 20 MD 10 CD

. 1/ MD - Machine direction, CD - Cross Machine direction

3.4.3 Counters. The thermoplastic counter shall conform to the performance requirements of Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The counter shall fit the last used and shall fill the counter pocket area.

TABLE II. Thermoplastic performance requirements.

Initial Collapsing Load (N) >130 Resilience, percent (min.) 25 Moisture Resistance, percent (min.) 80 Area Shape Retention, percent (min.)

Initial 10th collapse

Thickness (inches) 0.068 (±10%)

3.4.4 Box toe. A thermoplastic box toe shall be used and shall conform to the performance requirements of Table II. The box toes shall be skived 3/8 (± 1/8-inch) wide at the breast.

The box toe dimensions on the 11R shall be 2-inches (+/- 1/8-inch) when measured from the blucher nose to the center (top of the foot) of the box toe, then graduate in size in accordance with lasting size and width. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.5 Fabrics and other materials.

3.4.5.1 Upper fabric.

3.4.5.1.1 Cloth. The cloth for the quarters shall conform to MIL-DTL-32439, Type I, Class 1, Style A, except that the air permeability requirement shall not apply. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). The nylon duck cloth for the quarters may be treated with a non-fray finish to facilitate cutting and handling. The nylon duck cloth for the collar cover may be flame-combined to a 0.05 (± 0.008) -inch thick layer of polyester foam having a density of 1.70 (± 0.05) pounds per cubic foot. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.5.1.2 Fabric for gusset. The fabric for the gusset shall be a 100 percent polyester spacer knit. The face fabric shall be a jersey knit, and the back fabric shall be mesh. The mesh shall be a raschel warp-knit mesh with fillet stitch. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). The gusset fabric may be treated with water repellency. The gusset fabric shall conform to Table III. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE III. Fabric for gusset performance requirements.

Weight, oz./sq. yd. 12.5 (± 10%) Thickness, inches 0.116 (± 10%) Wales (Width) 25 (± 3) Courses (Length) 52 (± 5) Breaking Strength (lbs.) (min.)

Wales (Width of Fabric) Courses (Length of Fabric)

Tear Strength (lbs.) (min.)

Elongation (%) (min.)

3.4.5.1.3 Fabric liner for cushioned insert and inside counter pocket. The cloth for the fabric top cover on the cushioned inserts and the inside counter pocket shall conform to the requirements in Table IV. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE IV. Fabric liner performance requirements.

Martindale Abrasion (Fabric only)

Dry (153,600 revs), cycles (min.)

9,600 Bursting Strength, lbs. (min.)

Fabric Only

3.4.5.1.4 Back seam tape. The tape shall conform to A-A-52071, Type I, Class 3, 1/2-inch or 17/32-inch wide. As an alternate, the tape shall conform to MIL-PRF-5038, Type III, Class 1, 1/2-inch wide. Back seam tape shall not extend over the comfort collar. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.5.1.5 Vamp lining. The cloth for the vamp lining and optional inside counter pocket shall be a textile knit laminate conforming to the requirements in Table IV. As an alternative vamp lining, cotton twill conforming to Class 2 of A-A-55296 with an added durable water repellent finish may be used, so long as the end item meets the requirements stated in Table IV. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.5.1.6 Binding tape. The tape for binding the top edge of the gusset shall be nylon conforming to MIL-PRF-5038 Type III, Class 1 or 2, 3/4-inch. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2).

3.4.5.1.7 Backstay and ankle reinforcement tape. The backstay tape shall be cut from 1-inch wide nylon webbing. The ankle reinforcing tape width shall be between 2 and 3-inches of nylon webbing, starting at the corner of the heel counterpart and back seam tape, crossing over the ankle bone when worn. The webbing shall conform to MIL-W-17337, Class 1 or 2. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching the standard sample (see 3.2).

3.4.5.1.8 Pull tab. The boot shall contain a pull tab loop. The nylon tape at the back seam shall be extended to create a pull tab with a circumference of 3 to 3-3/4 inches when completed.

The stitching of the pull tab shall be below the padding of the comfort collar. The top of the pull tab shall be even with the top of the collar (+ 0, -1/4-inch). The webbing shall meet the requirements listed in 4.4.2.

3.4.5.1.9 Comfort collar. The foam rubber for the padded collar shall be 1/4-inch thick latex foam having a density of 6.7 (±2) pounds per cubic foot. One (1) side of foam shall be covered with a cotton scrim cloth.

3.4.5.1.10 Comfort notch. The Comfort Notch shall be a V-shaped cut out between the eyelets and the speed loops that allows for both plantar and dorsi-flexion of the foot.

3.4.6 Shanks. The boot shall include a fiberglass shank bonded to the insole and/or midsole.

The fiberglass shank (glass and resin area), when cured, shall be 3/4 (± 1/4)-inch in width. The rear end of the shank shall be placed 2-1/4 (± 1/4) -inch in front of the rear end of the boot, the forward end of the shank shall not extend into the ball area, and the shank shall be oriented along the center line of the boot. The shank lengths shall conform to the schedule as specified in Table V.

TABLE V. Shank lengths.

Last Size (all widths) 1/ Shank Length (inches)

Minimum Maximum Last sizes 2 through 4.5 2-3/4 3-1/8 Last sizes 5 through 8 3-1/2 4 Last sizes 8.5 through 11.5 4-1/8 4-3/8 Last sizes 12 through 13.5 4-1/2 4-3/4 Last sizes 14 through 16 4-7/8 5-1/4

1/ Last Sizes 2 through 16 cover the boot sizes 3 through 17

3.4.7 Speed lace assembly. The speed lace assembly shall be brass or aluminum with a nylon coated Coyote 498 finish matching the standard sample (see 3.2). The speed lace assembly shall be in accordance with drawing 2-1-1635 (see 2.2.2).

3.4.7.1 Speed loops and eyelets. The appropriate number of eyelets and speed loops shall be securely attached to the eyelet facing (see TABLE VI). The three (3) eyelets shall be brass or aluminum, Size AA, with a nylon coated finish in Coyote 498. Eyelets and speed loops shall be no more than 1-3/8 inches, center to center, from one another. Eyelets and speed loops above and below the comfort notch shall be evenly spaced and aligned.

TABLE VI. Speed loops and eyelets.

Below Comfort Notch Above Comfort Notch

Boot Sizes Number of Eyelets Number of Speed Loops 3 – 12 3 3 – 4

12.5 –17 3 4 – 5

3.4.8 Drainage.

3.4.8.1 Drainage perforations. The boot shall have drainage perforations on both the medial and lateral sides of the leather vamp, behind the ball area of the foot and the natural flex line of the boot. There shall be no less than eight (8) perforations on each side for sizes 3 through 7.5 and no less than ten (10) perforations on each side for sizes 8 through 17. There shall be no more than 15 perforations on each side in any size. The perforations shall be no smaller than 0.04-inch and equally spaced from one another on each side using a design pattern of 2-3 even rows and the necessary number of columns (see Figure 2B). The drainage perforations may be backed by a non-metallic screen mesh or knit laminate material with a sieve size of no greater than 0.032-inch (0.8-mm.). The mesh or knit laminate, if used, shall be held in place with both adhesive and stitching around the perimeter of the perforations. Internal components of the boot, to include adhesives, shall not interfere with the proper drainage from the perforation holes. The lowest row of drainage perforations shall be no further than 0.375 (+0.125) -inch from the midsole. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5 Laces. The laces shall conform to Type III, Class 1 of A-A-55093. The color of the laces shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). The length of the laces shall be a minimum of 66-inches for all sizes. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.6 Soling system requirements.

3.6.1 Midsole construction and design. The cushion midsole shall be directly attached to the upper and shall be achieved either through an injection molding or open pouring method. The design shall be as shown in Figures 2A and 2B. The cushion midsole shall be pure polyether polyurethane (PU), Coyote 498 color that is a good match to the Government standard sample (see 3.2). The polyether polyurethane underfoot shall grade across last sizes be as specified in Table VII, with a tolerance of (± .5 mm.). Under foot locations A and B are identified in Figure 3C. The cushion midsole may have plain or exterior texture pattern with minimum designs.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE VII. Stack height and PU underfoot by Last size (mm.).

Last Size (See 6.6)

A Regular Width

(PU under Ball of foot)

B Regular Width

(PU under Heel of foot)

A Wide Width (PU under

Ball of foot)

B Regular Width

(PU under Heel of foot)

2 4.20 19.20 4.70 18.26 3 4.30 19.30 4.80 18.69 4 4.40 19.40 4.90 19.12 5 4.50 19.50 5.00 19.55 6 4.60 19.60 5.10 19.98 7 4.70 19.70 5.20 20.41 8 4.80 19.80 5.30 20.84 9 4.90 19.90 5.40 21.27 10 5.00 20.00 5.50 21.70 11 5.33 20.33 5.70 22.22 12 5.67 20.67 5.90 22.74

TABLE VII. Stack height and PU underfoot by Last size (mm.). - Continued

Last Size (See 6.6)

A Regular Width

(PU under Ball of foot)

B Regular Width

(PU under Heel of foot)

A Wide Width (PU under

Ball of foot)

B Regular Width

(PU under Heel of foot)

13 6.00 21.00 6.10 23.26 14 6.33 21.33 6.30 23.78 15 6.67 21.67 6.50 24.30 16 8.00 23.00 6.70 24.82

NOTE *Table above is for reference, measurements will only be taken on the provided boot (last 10/boot size 11) cut lengthwise for Product Demonstration Models and First Production Lot Inspection only.

3.6.2 Midsole compound requirements. The requirements for the pure polyether polyurethane cushioned midsole are based on testing done on slabs in accordance with ASTM procedures in Table XIV and are not actual soles. The requirements shall be as specified in Table VIII when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.

TABLE VIII. Midsole polyether polyurethane requirements.

Characteristics Requirement Density g./l. .32-.50 Hardness (shore A) 35-60 Tensile strength, kgf. /cm. sq. (min.) 18 Elongation, percent (min.) 275 Tear Strength, Die T, kg./cm (min.) 3.7 Volume Swell, percent (max.) IRM903 10 Compression Set, percent (max.) 20 Ross Flex (1-inch X 6-inch) at -5 °C, percent

150,000 cycles (max.)

3.6.3 Outersole. The outersole tread design shall be the Vibram style #1439, or equal. The outsole shall be a minimum of 12-iron, 6.5 millimeters (mm.) in thickness of solid rubber at each of the lugs, which respectively are 5.0 millimeters (mm.) in thickness when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color of the outsole and any identification plug shall be Coyote 498 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.3.1 Rubber outersole compound requirements. The requirements for the rubber outsole are based on testing done on slabs in accordance with the ASTM procedures in Table XIV and are not actual soles. The requirements shall be as specified in Table IX when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.

TABLE IX. Rubber outsole compound requirements.

Abrasion (min.) 180 Hardness (Shore A) 60-70 Stitch Tear, pounds (min.)

Dry Fuel B

Die C tear strength, pounds (min.) 200 Ross flex, IRM903, percent (max.)

50,000 flexes

Volume swell % (max.)

Isooctane (24 hrs.)

Non-marking Pass

Tensile, pounds (min.) 2000 Elongation, percent (min.) 400

3.6.4 Bond strength. The bond achieved between the boot upper, cushion midsole, and outsole shall be resistant to any delamination for the life of the item.

3.6.4.1 Entire sole to upper. The bond strength shall not be less than 80 pounds. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.6.4.1.1 Outersole to cushion midsole bond strength. The outersole to cushion midsole bond strength shall not be less than 80 pounds. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

NOTE: The components of the sole shall be layered in such a manner that the specified bond strengths will be achieved. If test results find values to be less than specified due to material failure, in regard to the bond between the layers, the test shall be classified as a failure.

3.7 Thread, nylon. The thread shall be nylon, conforming to A-A-59826 Class A or B, Type I, Tex size 68-70 (Government size E); Type II, Tex size 70-76 (Government size E); or Type III, Tex size 70-75 (Government size E). The color of the thread shall be Coyote 498.

Colorfastness requirements shall not apply. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.8 Removable cushion insert. The removable cushion insert shall be a low-density heel cup support made of a polyether polyurethane system, black in color, and molded to a fabric top cover meeting the requirements listed in Table X. The fabric shall be black in color and conform to the requirements of the liner for cushioned insert in 3.4.5.1.3. The total thickness of the insert shall be 0.180 (± 0.025) -inch forward of the instep, and 0.250 (± 0.030) -inch elsewhere.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE X. Removable cushion insert requirements.

Characteristics Requirement Density, lb./cu. ft. 16-19 Tensile strength, lb./sq. in. (min.) 82 Compression set, percent at 25% (max.) 5 Foam Hardness, Shore 00 50-65

3.9 Design. The color of the boot shall be Coyote 498 in color and have a padded collar covered with a nylon cloth. The boot shall contain a partial speed lace system consisting of three (3) eyelets below the comfort notch with the remainder being speed loops. The boot shall be lasted with a textile insole. The boots shall contain a removable cushion insert. The exterior leather areas shall be flesh-side out leather with perforated drainage holes located in the inner and outer mid-foot area of each boot. The quarter shall be nylon duck, the backstay, pull tab, and ankle reinforcements shall be nylon webbing.

3.9.1 Vamp design. The vamp design shall be such as to allow for the leather vamp to extend up the gusset to approximately the second eyelet of the boot (see Figure 3A).

3.9.2 Boot height. The height of the finished boot, measured upward on the outside from tread area at the breast of heel to the top of the boot, shall be 9.0 (-1/4, + 1/2) inches on size 11R and shall graduate up and down between sizes as indicated by the patterns. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.9.3 Boot weight. The weight of a finished boot (size 11R) shall be less than or equal to

1.5 pounds per boot when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.10 Lasts and molds. (See 6.6).

3.10.1 Direct attach soling construction lasts and molds. The boots shall be made on commercial last model “FMT U3813-1 Military” or equal designed for direct attach based on Government approval. The “FMT U3813-1 Military” or equal last shall be used for both lasting and molding the boots. The numerical size of the boot shall correspond with one more than the numerical size of the last used to produce the boot (i.e., a size 11R boot shall be produced on a size 10R last). The Direct Attach last has a common last bottom shared by N and R lasts and a common last bottom shared by W and XW lasts for each whole and half size. The Direct Attach (either Injection Molding or Open Pouring) process shall utilize a separate cushion midsole mold to produce N and R widths for each whole and half size. The Direct Attach process shall use a separate cushion midsole mold to produce W and XW widths for each whole and half size. The total number of molds required to produce the full size tariff shall be fifty-eight (58) molds.

3.11 Construction.

3.11.1 Uppers.

3.11.1.1 Cutting leather uppers. The leather parts shall conform to the thickness requirements specified in Table XI. All leather for boot components, with the exception of the inside eyelet stays, shall be cut so as to be used flesh side out. Vamps shall be examined as specified in 4.4.2. Outside eyelet stays shall not be split down parts. Skiving of leather upper parts is permitted.

TABLE XI. Thickness of leather uppers (ounces).

Characteristics If not split down For split down parts

Min. Max. Min. Max.

Vamp 4 5 -- -- Outside counter pocket 4 5 -- -- Outside eyelet stays 3 4 -- -- Inside eyelet stays 3 4 3-1/2 4

3.11.1.2 Cutting fabric upper parts. The quarters shall be cut in the bias direction, such that the collar seam is not parallel with either the warp or fill direction. The collar cover shall be cut in the bias direction.

3.11.2 Insole construction. The boot shall be made with a Strobel construction in which the bottom construction of the boot shall include a non-woven textile insole that is stitched 360 degrees around the bottom of the upper. The textile insole should match the last bottom gauge as closely as possible.

3.11.3 Marking, permanent identification. With the exception of Product Demonstration

Models (PDMs), the manufacturer shall permanently mark the correct American and Mondopoint sizes and widths, the contract number (Example: 04-D-1234), and the company or brand name on the inside of the boot in the shaft or gusset area. The marking may be in the form of a label and shall be done in accordance with acceptable commercial practices, and it shall not reduce footwear functionality. The boot shall contain a manufacturing tracking lot number and a born date. Embossing of a company or brand name on the exterior of the boot shall not be permitted. Unit packs will include NSN and UPC bar codes as specified in the contract. Each symbol must be human and scanner readable. As an alternate, a sewn in label may be utilized

3.12 Assembly.

3.12.1 Boot finishing. No top finish or treatment shall be applied.

3.12.2 Pairing, lacing, and instruction tag. The boots shall be paired. A lace shall be inserted through the top speed lace loop of the outside quarter of each boot, and the two (2) laces for each pair shall be tied firmly together. One (1) instruction tag (see 3.13.1) shall be attached to each pair of boots by inserting a lace through the hole in the instruction tag.

3.13 Instruction and hangtags.

3.13.1 Instruction tag. The instruction label/tag is to be attached to the finished boots, and the print size shall be 1/8 (± 1/32) -inch. The instruction label/tag shall be printed using the data specified in Figure 1. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a label/tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17, of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar-coding element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). The bar-code type shall be a medium to high code density. It shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified in the contract and in a manner that causes no damage to the item. As an option, a hang tag identifying the features of the boot is permitted.

3.14 Workmanship. The finished boots shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractor's own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see paragraph 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see paragraph 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, workmanship, and dimensions. In addition, the first article shall include verification of compliance to the component testing 4.4.2, visual inspection 4.4.3, end item testing 4.4.4, and shade 4.5. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract or purchase order (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one (1) pair of boots and the lot size shall be expressed in pairs of boots.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4.1 through 4.4.1.3 and 4.4.3 and the tests of 4.4.2 through 4.4.4. as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated. (See 6.2).

4.4 Component and material inspection.

4.4.1 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of manufacturing to determine whether the components are as specified or operations and/or assemblies are accomplished as specified. The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material or service for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.4.1.1 In-process examination. Examination shall be made for the component defects listed in 4.4.1.2 through 4.4.1.3 and classified as specified.

4.4.1.2 Examination uppers after all fitting. The upper assemblies shall be examined for the defects listed in Table XII. The lot size shall be expressed in units of upper assemblies prepared for lasting. The sample unit shall be one (1) completely fabricated upper assembly prepared for lasting.

TABLE XII. Examination of upper after all fitting.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor Construction and workmanship (general) affixed

Any component missing or not specified type Any component misplaced or not as specified 1/ Vamp stitched more than 5/32-inch from edge at throat Vamp stitched more than 3/32-inch from edge at throat, but not more than 5/32-inch

Vamp throat or wings not skived 104

Quality of Thickness more than 1/2 ounce less than minimum Leather specified

Thickness less than specified minimum, but not exceeding 1/2 ounce less Thickness more than maximum specified Off-stretch cut 1/ Slaughter cut 1/

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability, and as a minor when not seriously affecting serviceability, as determined by the Government

4.4.1.3 Examination of boot before last pulling. The partially fabricated boots shall be examined for the defects listed in Table XIII. The lot size shall be expressed in units of partially fabricated boots. The sample unit shall be one (1) partially constructed boot assembled to the point just prior to pulling off the last.

TABLE XIII. Examination of boot before last pulling.

Examine Defect Classification

Bottom of boot Any component missing, sized wrong, malformed or not specified type

Poor heel seat, side, or toe lasting 1/

Upper part of boot

Upper damaged 1/ Uppers not firmly pulled down to last 1/

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability, and as a minor when not seriously affecting serviceability as determined by the Government.

4.4.2 Component testing. The components shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table XIV. The methods of testing specified where applicable shall be used. The sampling plan shall be as follows: (Unless otherwise noted in the contract or solicitation).

Lot size (yards or units) Sample size

Under 800 2 801 – 22,000 5 22,001 and above 8

TABLE XIV. Component tests.

Component

Characteristic

Requirement Paragraph

Test Method

Upper leather Physical Characteristics Shade Evaluation Softness

3.4.1 MIL-PRF-3122

1/

ISO 17235 2/

Insole Weight, oz./sq.yd.

Thickness, mm. (min) Tensile Strength, PSI (min.)

Bursting Strength, PSI (min.)

Elongation, percent (min)

3.4.2 & Table I

ASTM D3776/D3776M

(Opt. C)

ASTM D1777 3/

ASTM D5034

ASTM D3787

ASTM D5034

Box Toe & Heel Counters

Initial Collapsing Load (N) Resilience (%) Moisture Resistance (%) Area Shape Retention (%) Thickness (in.)

3.4.3, Table II & 3.4.4

SATRA TM83

SATRA TM83 4/

SATRA TM83 5/

SATRA TM83

SATRA TM1

TABLE XIV. Component tests. - Continued

Fabrics:

Nylon duck fabric

Physical Characteristics Shade Evaluation

3.4.5.1.1 MIL-DTL-32439

1/

Polyester mesh gusset

Shade Evaluation Weight (oz.sq.yd.)

Thickness (in.)

Wales Courses Tear Strength (lbs.)

Breaking Strength (lbs.)

Elongation (%)

3.4.5.1.2 & Table III

1/

ASTM D3776/D3776M

Opt. C

ASTM D1777 3/

ASTM D3787

ASTM D3787

ASTM D1424

ASTM D5034

ASTM D4964

Laminated cloth

Martindale Abrasion Fabric only

Dry Bursting Strength Fabric only

3.4.5.1.3 & Table IV ASTM D4966 6/

ASTM D3787

Binding Tape Width

Shade Evaluation

3.4.5.1.6 Visual 7/

1/ Backstay, Ankle reinforcement Tape & Pull Tab

Width Pull Tab Circumference Shade Evaluation

3.4.5.1.7 3.4.5.1.8 3.4.5.1.7

Visual 7/ Visual 7/ 1/

Collar Foam Thickness Density

3.4.5.1.9 ASTM D1777 3/

ASTM D3574 Test A

Shanks Width Length

3.4.6 & Table V

Visual 7/

Speed Lace Assembly

Shade Evaluation 3.4.7 1/

Eyelets Shade Evaluation 3.4.7.1 1/ Laces Shade Evaluation

Length

3.5 1/

Visual 7/

TABLE XIV. Component tests. - Continued

Density (gm./cc.)

Hardness (shore A) Tensile strength (kgf/cm sq) Elongation (%) Tear strength, Die T (kg/cm)

Volume swell (%) w/ IRM903 (at 24 hrs) Compression Set %

Ross flex (1-inch x 6-inch) at 5°C

3.6.2 & Table VIII

ASTM D297

ASTM D2240 8/

ASTM D3574 Test E 9/ ASTM D3574 Test E 9/

ASTM D624 9/

ASTM D471 3/, 9/

SATRA TM64 10/

ASTM D1052 11/, 12/

Outersole Thickness Shade Evaluation

3.6.3 3/ 1/

Rubber Compound

Abrasion Hardness (shore A) Stitch Tear (dry) Stitch Tear (Fuel B) Die C tear strength Ross flex, IRM903 Volume swell, Isooctane @ 24 hrs.

Non-marking Tensile lbs.

Elongation %

3.6.3.1 & Table IX

ASTM D5963

ASTM D2240 8/

ASTM D4786

ASTM D4786 13/

ASTM D624

ASTM D1052

ASTM D471

SATRA TM223

ASTM D412

ASTM D412

Thread, nylon Shade Evaluation 3.7 1/

Removable cushion Inserts

Density Foam hardness Tensile strength Compression set @ 25%

3.8 & Table X ASTM D3574A

ASTM D2240 8/

ASTM D3574 Test E ASTM D3574 Test D

1/ The color of the component shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2) when tested in accordance with AATCC EP9 Option C as described in Section 4.6 of this specification.

2/ Test conducted with 35mm. aperture.

3/ A thickness gauge of the dead-weight type equipped with a dial graduated to read directly to 0.001-inches shall be used. The presser foot shall be circular, with a diameter of 1.129 (± 0.001) inches and with moving parts weighted to apply a total load of 0.60 (±0.03) pounds per square inch (psi) to the specimen. The anvil shall be not less than 1.129-inches in diameter. The presser foot and anvil surface shall be paned to within 0.001-inches and shall be parallel to each other to within 0.001-inches.

4/ Resilience is percentage retention of initial collapsing load after ten collapses.

5/ Moisture resistance is percentage retention of initial dry collapsing load after 1-hour immersion.

6/ Martindale Tester; Pressure applied: 12 kPa; visually examine specimens after each 3200 cycles; abradant changed after each 3200 cycles.

7/ Measured with a calibrated ruler/caliper.

8/ Thickness of test slab shall be as stated in the respective ASTM method.

9/ Thickness of test sample used shall equal 12.7 mm. (0.5-inch) from test slabs or 6.0 mm.

from actual cushioned midsoles. Actual cushioned midsoles shall be used for verification testing only.

10/ Thickness of test sample used shall equal 12.7 mm. (0.5-inch) from test slabs or 19.0 mm.

from actual cushioned midsoles. Actual cushioned midsoles shall be used for verification testing only. However, all test reports used for conformance purposes and submitted to the Government shall use test slabs.

11/ Method modified to include 2 mm. insole board glued onto the specimens and conducted at -5 ºC.

12/ Thickness of test sample used shall equal 6.4 mm. (0.25 in.) from test slabs or 6.0 mm.

from actual cushioned midsoles. Actual cushioned midsoles shall be used for verification testing only. However, all test reports used for conformance purposes and submitted to the Government shall use test slabs.

13/ Test conducted after 46 hours in Fuel B at Room Temperature. However, all test reports used for conformance purposes and submitted to the Government shall use test slabs.

4.4.3 End item visual examination. The end items shall be examined for the defects listed in Table XV below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of boots. The inspector shall check to see that removable cushion inserts are inserted in the boots. For the pairing examination, and when determining possible differences in outersole thickness, the pair shall be examined together. During the inspection for the defects listed in Table XV, the minor defects or departures from specification requirements listed in the table shall be observed and recorded.

Presence of these departures shall not result in the rejection of the lot, but the plant quality assurance and the Government personnel reserve the right to establish and impose lot rejection criteria when either the frequency or severity of the presence of these departures warrant. These additional rejection criteria may be invoked at any time during the life of the contract when the Government judges this action to be in their best interest. Defects of pairing shall be classified as a single defect. Note: Appearance defects shall be scored only when the condition is plainly visible at a distance of 3 feet or more.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

TABLE XV. End item visual examination.

0BExamination Defect Classification

Pairing Not properly mated, i.e., not right and left of same size Variation in color, or appearance 1/ Variation of more than 1/4-inch in height of pair Difference in outersole thickness between left/right boot

- More than 3/32-inch

- More than 1/16-inch but less than 3/32-inch

113 210

Gusset Mended or weak spot 116 Polyester - Mesh Fabric oriented incorrectly or mesh-side out 117 Spacer Fabric Abrasion, spot, stain or discoloration 1/ 118 212

Binding Omitted 119

Nylon Quarter Mended or weak spot 120 Two (2) or more yarns missing 121 Quarter not cut on the bias 122 Abrasion, spot, stain, or discoloration 1/ 123 213 Construction & Workmanship (general)

Cut, tear, hole, repair, or factory damage 1/ Wrinkled or bunched area at the back seam 1/ Component or assembly omitted or misplaced, operation omitted or not properly performed (unless otherwise classified herein) 1/

Any component, assembly, or design present creating “hot spots”

126 216

Webbing (Ankle Not firmly and tightly woven, edges frayed or scalloped 128 Reinforcement) Not properly placed 129

Incorrect width 130 Seams & Open seam not repaired 1/, 2/

Quarter panel and gusset fabric not caught in second row of inside eyelet stay stitching

One (1) or more run-off stitches Loose tension resulting in a loosely secured seam 1/ Tight tension resulting in puckering or cutting of leather 1/ Row of stitching with less than eight (8) stitches per inch, but not less than six (6) stitches per inch 3/ Any row of stitching with less than six (6) stitches per inch 3/

131 217 stitching (upper)

133 219

134 220

TABLE XV. End item visual examination. - Continued

Seams & More than the specified maximum number of stitches

(10 stitches per inch) 1/, 3/ Gauge of stitching not as specified or irregular 1/ Stitching omitted where required 1/ Thread ends not trimmed throughout boot 1/, 4/ Needle holes or needle chew 1/ Sand hole (i.e., tongue not properly caught in at throat) stitching (upper)

Continued 136 222 137 223 138 224 139 225 140 226

Insole Construction

Textile insole is not securely stitched to upper 141

Vamp or Counter Pocket Stitching at Outersole Junction

One (1) or more rows of defective stitching not repaired Repaired, but first stitch more than 1/4-inch from outersole junction Repaired with one (1) stitch in lieu of two (2) or more stitches

Polyurethane Voids, bumps 1/ Incorrect sidewall design.

Incomplete or incorrect bonding of midsole to upper

(i.e., not securely attached) 1/

144 229 Midsole 145

146 230

Outersole & Soling System

Thickness not as specified Other defects in tread or edge area Incomplete or incorrect bonding of outersole to cushion midsole (i.e., not securely attached) 1/ Incorrect outer sole design, design not as specified

Box Toe Misshapen, collapsed 233 Counters Rolled or curled counter 150

Misshapen, collapsed 151 Eyelets/Speed Number of eyelets/speed lacer not as specified 152 laces Not the same number of eyelets/speed laces in each row 1 153 234

Eyelets/speed lacers not properly spaced within the 154 row Misalignment between the rows to an extent interfering 155 with proper lacing 156 Any eyelet/speed lacer not securely clinched 157 Any eyelet/speed lace malformed or damaged

TABLE XV. End item visual examination. - Continued

Marking, instruction tag and bar code

Missing, incomplete, incorrect, not applied in the specified manner, misplaced, illegible, or not specified size or not readable by scanner

Causes damage to end item

Insole Short or long 1/ Any protruding lasting stitch Polyurethane bleeding through 1/, 5/

Removable Cushion Inserts

Missing, wrong size or width 238

Perforated holes Components omitted Incorrect number of holes 1/ Incorrect placement of holes Incorrect number of rows and columns of holes Stitching omitted

Pull Tabs Components omitted Incorrect size Incorrect location 1/

Comfort Notch Placement

Incorrect placement 1/ 166 245

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability or appearance as determined by the Government, and as minor when not seriously affecting serviceability.

2/ A seam shall be classified as open when one (1) or more stitches joining a seam are broken or when two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches occur. On multiple stitched seams, a seam is considered open when either one (1) or both sides of the seam are open.

When the above conditions occur on the inside of the boot, it shall be scored as a footnote (1/) defect.

3/ A plus tolerance of three (3) stitches per inch will be allowed when stitching over heavy places or turning sharp corners.

4/ Upon occasion when some insignificant thread ends are noted during inspection (audit) they will not be cause for lot/shipment rejection. In-plant corrective action shall be made on current and future production.

5/ Remove insole and check entire circumference of the footbed area. Note areas of bleed through that affects the shape of the insole or rises above the insole, not conforming to the last.

4.4.4 End item testing. The finished boot shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table XVI. The sample unit for all tests shall be one (1) boot. All test results shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. For all tests, the sample size shall be five (5) boots regardless of lot size and the lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE XVI. End item tests.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method Midsole polyurethane underfoot Midsole (Under Foot/Ball) Midsole (Under Heel)

Stack Height

3.6.1 3.6.1 3.6.1

3.6.1 and Table VII

1/, 2/ Visual

Bond strength Entire sole to upper Outersole to cushion midsole

3.6.4 3.6.4.1 3.6.4.1.1

4.5.2 4.5.1

Boot Height 3.9.2 1/ Visual Weight 3.9.3 3/

1/ Measured with a calibrated ruler/caliper 2/ Manufacturer will provide boot cut lengthwise for Product Demonstration Models and

First Production Lot Inspection only 3/ Weighed on a calibrated scale

4.5 Methods of test.

4.5.1 Bond strength test of outersole to cushion midsole.

4.5.1.1 Specimen. The specimen shall be a completed boot which has aged at least two (2) days. The outersole shall be separated from the cushion-midsole, for a distance of approximately 2-1/2-inches each from the toe end of the specimen.

4.5.1.2 Apparatus. A power-driven adhesion machine, or an approved testing device of equal performance, shall be used. The rate of travel of the power-actuated grip shall be 2-inches per minute. The machine shall be operated with a device for maintaining maximum load indication.

4.5.1.3 Procedure. The separate toe ends of the specimen shall be clamped in the jaws of the machine. The specimen shall extend outward at right angles to the direction of the application load. The machine shall be started, and the surface being tested shall be pulled apart to a distance of not more than 4-1/2-inches from the toe. Upon attaining that degree of separation, the load indicated on the machine shall be read and recorded. If the required load is achieved (at any time during the pull test) the test is deemed as passing.

4.5.2 Bond strength test of entire soling system to boot upper.

4.5.2.1 Specimen. The specimen shall be a completed boot which has aged at least two (2) days. The test specimen shall be legibly marked on each side at two (2) points (2-inches and 4-inches) from the tip of the toe. The entire soling system shall then be separated from the upper to the 2-inch mark. The separation may be aided by any suitable device or machine capable of withstanding the amount of force necessary to accomplish separation. After separation to the 2-inch mark is achieved, the toe cap of the boot shall be crushed to facilitate mounting of the specimen in the tester. In event that the point of separation at the 2-inch mark is not between the upper and the soling system, that portion of the soling system remaining adhered to the upper shall be separated manually (with the aid of a knife or other instrument), so as to show separation between leather and soling system. Care should be taken in order to be sure that the leather is not cut.

4.5.2.2 Apparatus and procedure. The apparatus for measuring soling system/upper separation shall be as described in test method ASTM D2208. The separated and crushed toe portion of the boot shall be gripped by one (1) clamp in a manner such that the minimum effective jaw surface area applied shall be 1-inch by 1-inch. The jaw surface shall be centered approximately 1/2-inch to 1-inch from the tip of the toe. The other jaw surface shall hold the entire sole system, i.e., midsole and outer sole, and it shall not be less than 1-inch by 2-inches, with the long dimensions perpendicular to the pull of the machine. The machine shall be set in operation and the separation continued at a speed of 10-inches per minute until the outsole is separated from the upper to a point past the mark 4-inches from the tip. The maximum value attained during separation shall be taken as the bond strength.

4.6 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the (item) shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C, (see 6.5) with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE Illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (± 200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles. Alternatively, the color and appearance of the (item) shall match the standard sample with a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles in lieu of D65. (See 6.5.1). The (item) shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

5. PACKAGING.

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The boots are intended for wear by military personnel of the Department of Defense in Hot Weather Wet Environments, Hot Weather Dry Environments, Garrison Environment and during combat.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification

b. Types, sizes and widths required (see 1.2.1)

c. The specific issue of individual document referenced (see 2.2)

d. When first article is required, (see 3.1.1, 4.2 and 6.3)

e. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 3.1.2 and 4.3)

f. Inclusion of specific instructions regarding arrangement for examinations, quantity, testing and approval (see 4.3)

g. Packaging requirements (see 5.1)

6.3 First article.