GL-PD 14-04B ACU Coat.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 14-04B

7 March 2023

SUPERSEDING

GL/PD 14-04A

27 February 2015

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, ADVANCED COMBAT UNIFORM

This specification is approved for use by DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for unisex and female advanced combat coats to be worn by Military personnel.

1.2 Classification. The coat will be of the following types, styles, classes and sizes as specified.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - 50/50 Nylon/Cotton Ripstop Type II - DELETED Type III - Flame Resistant Cloth Ripstop

1.2.2 Styles.

Style A - Unisex Style B - Female

1.2.3 Classes.

Class 1 - Untreated Class 2 - Permethrin Treated Class 3 - Insect Repellent Treated

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM – Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

GL-PD-14-04B

1.2.4 Sizes. The coat sizes will be as follows:

STYLE A. UNISEX SCHEDULE OF SIZES

X-Small (XS) Small

(S) Medium

(M) Large

(L) X-Large

(XL)

XX-Large

(2XL)

XX-Short (XX-S) XX-Short XX-Short XX-Short XX-Short ---- X-Short ( X-S) X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short ---- Short (S) Short Short Short Short ---- Regular (R) Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long (L) Long Long Long Long Long X-Long (X-L) X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long XX-Long (XX-L) XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

STYLE B. FEMALE SCHEDULE OF SIZES

30 33 36 39

X Short X Short X Short ---- Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular ---- Long Long Long ---- ---- X-Long X-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55195 - Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus A-A-55217 - Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-PRF-32635 - Cloth, Flame Resistant MIL-PRF-32659 - Textiles: Vector Protection Treatment of MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-DTL-44436 - Cloth, Camouflage Pattern, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

OTHER GOVERNMENT DOCUMENTS AND PUBLICATIONS

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

CO-PD-06-05 - Patch and Brassard, Identification, Infrared Retroreflective GL-PD-10-08 - Patch Kit, Integrated, Flame Resistant (IPK)

(Copies of these documents are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM81 - Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set (Fabric Defect Replica Scales)

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3.3 Design. The coat design for Style A-Unisex and Style B-Female has a single-breasted front with a slide fastener (double slider) closure and a secondary hook and loop fastener tape closure; a band collar; long sleeves with cuffs and one (1) button, three (3) buttonholes adjustable cuff tab; and a bi-swing back. The collar has a fusible interlining. The front has two (2) angled chest pockets with flaps with hook and loop fastener tape closures. Above each chest pocket there is loop tape to accommodate the Name and US Military Service Tapes. The front placket has a loop tape for the Rank Patch. The coat has two (2) bellow style upper sleeve pockets and includes an eyelet drain-hole and loop fastener tape on the outside of the pocket.

Each sleeve pocket has a slide fastener (zipper) closure on the front side (as worn) (see figure 4).

The coat sleeves have an elbow reinforcement patch. Both sleeves have an Identification Friend or Foe (IFF) tab cover that can be opened and closed using hook and loop fastener. The IFF tab cover is centered and sewn onto the sleeve above the upper sleeve pocket. The left sleeve has a two (2) channel pencil pocket. The coat has a double turned and cleaned finished hem. The Type III coat has an FR indicator located on the outside of the left sleeve cuff.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material (Type I only). The basic material for the Type I coat shall be a 50/50 nylon/cotton blend, wind resistant poplin ripstop cloth in Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) conforming to Class 14 of MIL-DTL-44436 as specified (see 6.2).

3.4.2 DELETED (see 6.9.1).

3.4.3 Basic material (Type III only). The basic material for the Type III coat shall be an FR ripstop cloth conforming to MIL-PRF-32635 Type III, Class 1 in OCP as specified (see 6.2).

3.4.4 Insect bite protection (all types). Materials may be treated as an option to obtain bite protection performance. Insect repellent treatment processes shall be in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The treated fabric and/or items shall be labeled in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The insect repellent finish shall be uniformly applied across the treated fabric and/or items at an initial target level as specified in the EPA registered label. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.5.1. The finished insect repellent treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the treated fabric and/or items.

3.4.5 Fusible interlining (all types, styles and classes). The fusible interlining for all Styles shall conform to MIL-C-44296, Type V, VI or VII, style B or C substrate with Class 1 (polyamide) or Class 3 (Polyethylene, high density) adhesive. The fusible shall meet the bonding strength and shrinkage requirements, initial and after three (3) launderings as specified in MIL-C-44296.

3.5 Insect bite protection (Classes2 and 3 only, all styles). The finished garments with insect repellent treatment shall provide the minimum mosquito bite protection specified in 3.5.1 and the treatment shall be strictly limited to the levels specified in the contract and is active ingredient dependent.

3.5.1 Percent (%) bite protection. Finished insect repellent treated garments shall provide the minimum bite protection specified below when assessed by the biting protection testing specified in 4.4.2. Government approval shall be required initially, and any time there is a change in the insect repellent treatment formulation or processing conditions.

Type I, Class 2 and 3 Type III, Class 2 and 3

Condition Initial (1 Wash)

% Bite Protection >/= 90%

% Bite Protection >/= 85%

After 20 launderings >/= 90% >/= 80% After 50 launderings >/= 90% >/= 80%

3.5.1.1 Insect repellent garment treatment of camouflage patterns (Classes 2 and 3 only, all styles). The mixing of camouflage patterns in the same insect repellent treatment garment application is not allowed. Patterns shall be treated separately.

3.5.1.2 Insect repellent garment application, finished measurements (Classes 2 and 3 only, all styles). Manufacturers shall comply with the finished measurement requirements in 3.12.1 and compensate for actual fabric shrinkage or growth after the application of garment treatment in accordance with the requirements in MIL-PRF-32659.

3.5.2 Insect repellent treatment (Class 2 and 3 only, all styles). Insect repellent treatment process shall be in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The treated items shall be labeled in accordance with 3.8.3 and 3.8.4. The insect repellent finish shall be uniformly applied across the treated item at an initial target level as specified in the EPA registered label. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.5.1. The finished insect repellent treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the treated item.

3.5.3 pH (Class 2 and 3 only). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.6 Component materials and shade (All types, styles, and classes). The component materials for the coat shall be made in accordance with paragraphs 3.4 - 3.6.9. Component materials for the coat are for all types, classes and styles unless otherwise noted. All component shade shall be Tan 499 for OCP uniforms with the exception of 3.7.13, Integrated Patch Kit (IPK). IPK shade shall be the camouflage print of the uniform.

3.6.1 Slide fasteners.

3.6.1.1 Coat front slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be a two (2) -way separating, non-reversible, automatic locking slider, Size 5, plastic individual element fastener (IEF) conforming to Type III, Style 13, Class 1 of A-A-55634 and shall have a double pin separating unit at bottom. The slide fastener shall have a crosswise breaking strength of not less than 100 pounds (average) with no individual reading less than 90 pounds, a minimum single element slippage of 16 pounds, minimum separable pin holding strength of 35 pounds and a minimum slider tab 90 degree pull off strength of 35 pounds when tested as specified in A-A-55634. The pin engagement and disengagement force into the dual sliders shall be a smooth single action without sticking or having to rework pin or sliders. The opening for the slider’s top and bottom pull-tabs shall be a minimum of 5 millimeters length by 7 millimeters width. The length of the slide fastener shall be as follows in Table IA and Table IB:

TABLE IA. Style A. Unisex slide fastener lengths (inches).

Length All sizes XX-Short 15 X Short/ Short 16 Regular/ Long 17 X-Long/ XX-Long 18

NOTE: Unisex slide fastener lengths are coordinated with coat lengths and not coat size.

TABLE IB. Style B. Female slide fastener lengths (inches)

Length Size 30 Size 33 Size 36 Size 39 X-Short 15 15 16 16

Short 15 15 16 16 Regular 16 16 17 17

Long --- 16 17 17 X-Long --- --- 18 18

NOTE: Female slide fastener lengths are coordinated with coat lengths and coat size.

3.6.1.2 Upper sleeve pocket slide fastener. The slide fastener for the coat pocket closure shall be in accordance with A-A-55634, Type I, Style 7. The slide fastener shall be plastic individual element Class 1, single slider, Size 5 with 100 pounds’ minimum crosswise strength and closed bottom and top stops. The slider pull hole shall be large enough to accommodate thong (pull tab) specified in 3.6.1.3. Slide fastener length shall be a minimum of 6-1/2-inches with a minimum chain opening of 5-1/2-inches from top stop to top of slider set upon bottom stop.

3.6.1.3 Slide fastener thongs. The slide fastener thong (pull tab) for the coat front and the upper sleeve pocket shall be a tape 3/8-inch wide conforming to Type III of MIL-DTL-5038.

The thong shall finish 2 (±1/8) inches in length when folded. To prevent raveling, the ends of the tape shall be either heat cut or enclosed by folding inward. The thong shall be placed through the pull tab (top pull-tab only for coat front) and secured with a vertical bar-tack.

3.6.2 Tape. The nylon tape to cover the identification friend or foe (IFF) material and FR identification marker (Type III coat only) shall be 1-inch wide conforming to Type III of MIL-DTL-5038. The ends of the tape shall be heat cut to prevent raveling.

3.6.3 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class 1 or Class 4 of A-A-55126. The loop fastener tape shall conform to Class 1 or Class 4 of A-A-55126. The widths shall be as specified for each application throughout this specification.

The fastener tape, hook and loop, shall be consistent in manufacturer within a garment.

3.6.3.1 Fastener tape, hook and loop use. The use of hook and loop with and without selvage within a garment is allowed (does not need to be consistent within the garment). Hook and loop without selvage shall be heat slit along edges by hook and loop manufacturer only and shall not fray and shall meet the requirements of A-A-55126.

3.6.4 Identification friend or foe (IFF) material. The IFF material shall conform to Type I of

CO-PD-06-05.

3.6.5 Thread (Type I only, all styles and classes). The thread for seaming and stitching for the Type I coat shall conform to Table IIA. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE IIA. Thread requirements, Type I Coat only.

Component area Thread specification Needle thread (Tex size) 1/

Bobbin/ Looper thread

(Tex size) 1/ All seaming, stitching and bar-tacking A-A-50199, Type I 46-60 46-60 Button attachment A-A-50199, Type I 71-105 71-105 Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type I 21-24 21-24

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread

3.6.6 Thread (Type III only, all styles and classes). The thread for seaming and stitching of the Type III Flame Resistant coat shall be as specified in Table IIB. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each CID shall apply.

TABLE IIB. Thread requirements, Type III Coat only.

Component area Thread specification Needle thread (Tex size) 1/

Bobbin/ Looper thread

(Tex size) 1/ All seaming except small parts A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60 Safety stitch with top stitch, small parts, (hook/loop, pockets, flaps, collar, front placket, eyelet, top stitching, cuffs, tabs, and hems), IFF material & tab cover, identification marker, labels and slide fastener

A-A-55195, Type I A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60

Overedge/Serge for portions of raw edge cover

A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

24-27

24-27

Button attachment A-A-55195, Type I A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60 1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread.

3.6.7 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish, Tex Size 180 or 210.

3.6.8 Buttons. Buttons shall be dull finish, four (4) holes, 30 ligne conforming to A-A-59994, Type I, Class 1, Style 26. When attached to the coat, the button and thread shall withstand a pull/break of 40 pounds (minimum) when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.6.9 Integrated Patch Kit, (IPK) (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The IPK shall conform to the requirements of GL-PD-10-08. OCP uniforms shall use Class 3, Size R.

3.7 Construction (all types, styles and classes). The construction for coats shall be made in accordance with paragraphs 3.7.1 - 3.7.13. Construction is for all types, styles and classes unless otherwise noted. All garment material edges shall be clean finished: turned-in, turned-under, or serged, unless otherwise indicated. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern.

3.7.1 Fastener tape (hook and loop). All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch from bound selvage (for fastener tape with selvage) or from tape edge (for fastener tape without selvage) to prevent needle cutting along edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. To prevent raveling on fastener tape with selvage, do not sew directly on the selvage. The use of fastener tape that is slit, has split edges, or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. Under no circumstances shall any fastener tape be re-stitched for repair purposes. New tape shall be used for repairs to prevent needle cutting, thus offering maximum field life. All fastener tape may be sewn through all layers on coat as indicated on the figures, (see patterns for placement). Tolerance for all lengths shall be (±1/8) inch.

3.7.2 Collar. The collar (see figure 3) shall be interlined with a fusible as specified in 3.4.5.

3.7.3 Front closure. The front closure is a (double slider) slide fastener with a secondary hook and loop tape closure (see figure 1). The secondary closure consists of three (3) pairs of hook and loop fastener tape. The hook portion is on the underside of the front overlapping facing (left side) and is additionally stitched with a box-x stitch. The loop portion is stitched to the front side of the under facing (right side) and is additionally stitched with a box-x stitch and coincides with the hook. The hook and loop fasteners for the front closure shall be 1-inch wide by 1-1/2-inches in length. See pattern for placement.

3.7.3.1 Front facing. As an option, the overlapping facing may be fused (see Tables IVA and

IVB).

3.7.4 Upper sleeve pockets. Both upper sleeve pockets shall have a slide fastener.

3.7.4.1 Upper sleeve pocket. The sleeve pocket shall have a bellows at front, back and bottom with a slide fastener opening and eyelet at the bottom right of bellow. The pocket shall finish 4-1/2 (± 3/16) inches in width and 7-1/4 (± 3/16) inches in length. Each pocket shall have a 4-inch wide by 6-1/2-inch cut length loop fastener tape sewn on all sides, positioned 3/8-inch from bottom and top of pocket and centered side to side. The loop tape shall be additionally stitched with a crisscrossed-X pattern of stitching (see figure 4). See pattern for pocket loop fastener tape and eyelet placement. As an alternate, the stitching at the top of the pocket for closure shall stitch down the pocket bellows no more than 3/4-inch and shall have a vertical bar-tack starting at 1/4-inch from top of pocket and measuring 1/2-inch.

3.7.4.2 Upper sleeve pocket slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be on the forward side of the pocket (as worn) and shall be 6-1/2-inches in length. The slide fastener shall close from bottom to top and provide a minimum opening of 5-1/2-inches.

3.7.4.3 Eyelets. The sewn-in eyelets for the sleeve pocket bellows shall have a 1/4-inch (± 1/16) diameter finished opening.

3.7.4.4 Pencil pocket. The left sleeve shall have a 2-channel pencil pocket above the sleeve cuff. The pocket shall be 2-3/8 (± 1/8) inches wide and have a 3/4-inch double turned cleaned finished hem (see figure 1). The pocket shall have two (2) evenly spaced channels (permitted variation within 1/8-inch). See pattern for placement.

3.7.5 Sleeve cuff. The sleeve cuff shall be as specified in the pattern. The main body of the sleeve cuff shall have three (3) buttonholes spaced as per pattern. The sleeve cuff shall have a pointed adjustable tab with one (1) button sewn to the underside for closure adjustment (see figures 1 and 2). The sleeve tabs shall be 2-1/8 (± 1/8) inches wide by 3-1/8 (± 1/8) in length for all sizes.

3.7.5.1 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type (eyelet end toward the cuff edge worked over gimp for the cuff with not less than four (4) tacking stitches at bar end catching the gimp ends (not counting the crossover stitch). The purling shall be on the inside surface. The cut lengths shall be 3/4 to 7/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in fabric.

3.7.6 Elbow reinforcement. The coat shall have an elbow reinforcement patch on each sleeve, stitched down on all four (4) sides. See pattern for placement.

3.7.7 Chest pockets and flaps. There shall be two (2) chest pockets with flaps, one (1) on each chest side.

3.7.7.1 Front chest pockets. The chest pockets shall be angled downward/inward toward the front placket facing (see figure 1). The pocket shall finish 6-3/4 (± 1/8) inches in width and have a pocket opening of 6-3/8 (± 1/8) inches between bar-tacks. See Table VI for bar-tack/back-tack requirements. Chest pocket and body of coat grainline shall match. Each pocket shall have a piece of loop fastener tape, 5/8-inch wide by 6-3/4-inches in cut length, sewn onto it. See pattern for loop fastener tape placement.

3.7.7.1.1 Front chest pocket depth (Style A. Unisex only, all types and classes). The finished depth of each pocket for sizes X-Small and Small shall be 3-3/4 (+1/8, -0) inches, Medium, Large, X-Large, and XX-Large shall be 5-1/4 (+1/8, -0) inches.

3.7.7.1.2 Front chest pocket depth (Style B. Female only, all types and classes). The finished depth of each pocket for sizes 30 and 33 shall be 3-3/4 (+1/8, -0) inches, for size 36 shall be 4-3/4 (+1/8, -0) and for size 39 shall be 5-1/4 (+1/8, -0) inches.

3.7.7.2 Chest pocket flaps. The chest pocket flaps shall finish 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches in width and be of sufficient length to cover the top of the pocket. The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 1/4-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The underside of each chest pocket flap shall have a piece of hook fastener tape, 5/8-inch wide by 6-3/4-inches in cut length, sewn onto it for pocket closure. The stitching shall be through the hook tape and both layers of pocket flap (see figure 1). Chest pocket flap and body of coat grainline shall match.

3.7.8 Coat hem. The coat hem shall finish 5/8 (±1/8) inch wide, double turned and clean finished.

3.7.9 Name tape and Military Service tape. Above each chest pocket flap there shall be a piece of loop fastener tape 1-inch by 5-1/4-inches in cut length, sewn on to accommodate the name tape and Military Service tape. The loop tape shall be placed horizontal and be 1/8-inch (+1/8, -0) above the top corner of the pocket flap (see figure 1). See pattern for loop fastener tape placement. Both loop tapes shall be in horizontal alignment with each other when coat is zipped.

3.7.10 Identification Friend or Foe (IFF) configuration. The IFF material shall be on both sleeves. A 1-inch width loop fastener tape finishing 3-1/4-inches in length shall be stitched onto the sleeve base material. The loop fastener tape shall be stitched onto the sleeve base material 1-inch from the front of the pocket and 3/4-inch from the back of the pocket. A 1-inch width nylon tape finishing 1-7/8 (±1/16) inches in length shall have a 1-inch hook fastener tape finishing 1/2-inch in length and sewn onto the nylon tape. The nylon tape shall be of sufficient length to cover the IFF material when the hook is engaged. The IFF material shall be centered on the loop tape. See IFF webbing template (Table IVA and Table IVB) and pattern for placement. The IFF material shall be in accordance with 3.7.10.1.

3.7.10.1 Identification Friend or Foe (IFF) material. The IFF material as specified in 3.6.4 shall finish 3/4-inch wide and 3/4 (±1/16) inch in cut length.

3.7.11 Rank patch. The rank patch shall be a piece of loop fastener tape, 2-inches wide by 2-inches in cut length. See pattern for placement.

3.7.12 Identification FR marker (Type III only, all styles and classes). The Type III coat shall have a tape FR identification marker (see figure 1) on the left sleeve cuff as worn (see pattern for placement) and shall be visible from the outside when worn. The tape marker shall be clean finished, or heat sealed, 1 (±1/8) - inch in length. The finished tape identification marker shall be box stitched as specified in Table V. The thread shall be in accordance with the requirements for the Type III coat (see 3.6.6).

3.7.13 Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) placement (Type III only, all classes and styles). The Type III coat shall have an IPK placed into the finished right upper sleeve pocket, as worn. The IPK shall be placed into the pocket after garment treatment with the longest dimension vertical and shall lie flat after placement in pocket. The pocket slide fastener shall be engaged to prevent IPK from falling out.

3.8 Labels (all types, styles and classes). Labels are for all types, styles and classes unless otherwise noted. All garments shall have a size label and a combination identification/care label sewn or stamped into the coat. All garments shall have a barcode hang tag. Class 2 and Class 3 coats shall have an additional insect protection/identification/care label sewn or stamped into the coat and a hang tag. The printing for all labels shall be black. The font size for the inscription of the size label shall be 10 points. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for identification/care label and insect protection/identification/care label only. Inscription shall be legible. Sewn in labels and printing and/or stamping shall last the expected life of the coat.

3.8.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn on the inside center back approximately 1/2-inch below the neckline. The label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides and the stitching shall not cover the printing. The color of the size labels for the Type I coat shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric and for the Type III coat the color of the size label shall be Urban Gray 501. As an alternate, may use a stamp at the bottom of the neckline. The color base of stamping for the Type I coat shall be white, and Urban Gray base for Type III coat with black letters. The size label shall include the information in Table IIIA and Table IIIB for the applicable size:

TABLE IIIA. Style A. Unisex size label.

X-Small - XX-Short Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 29 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/7484

X-Small - X-Short Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 29 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/7484

X-Small - Short Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 29 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/7484

X-Small - Regular Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 29 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/7484

X-Small - Long Height: 71 to 75 in Chest: 29 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/7484

X-Small - X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 29 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/7484

X-Small – XX-Long Height:79 to 83 in.

Chest: 29-33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/7484

Small – XX-Short Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/8494

Small – X-Short Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/8494

Small – Short Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/8494

Small – Regular Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/8494

Small – Long Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/8494

Small – X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/8494

Small – XX-Long Height: 79-83 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/8494

Medium – XX-Short Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/9404

Medium – X-Short Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/9404

Medium – Short Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/9404

Medium – Regular Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/9404

Medium – Long Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/9404

Medium – X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/9404

Medium – XX –Long Height: 79 to 83 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/9404

Large – XX-Short Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/0414

Large – X-Short Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/0414

Large – Short Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/0414

TABLE IIIA. Style A. Unisex size label. - Continued

Large – Regular Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/0414

Large – Long Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/0414

Large – X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/0414

Large- XX-Long Height: Above 79 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/0414

X-Large – XX-Short Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/1424

X-Large – X-Short Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/1424

X-Large – Short Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/1424

X-Large – Regular Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/1424

X-Large – Long Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/1424

X-Large - X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/1424

X-Large - XX-Long Height: 79 to 83 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/1424

XX-Large - Regular Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/2435

XX-Large - Long Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/2435

XX-Large - X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/2435

XX-Large - XX-Long Height: 79 to 83 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/2435

TABLE IIIB. Style B. Female size label.

30 – X Short Height: 54 to 58 in.

Chest: 30 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

4050/7484

33 – X Short Height: 54 to 58 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

4050/8494

36 – X Short Height: 54 to 58 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

4050/9404

30 – Short Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 30 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

5060/7484

33 – Short Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

5060/8494

36 – Short Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

5060/9404

39 – Short Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

5060/9404

30 – Regular Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 30 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6070/7484

33 – Regular Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6070/8494

36 – Regular Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6070/9404

39 – Regular Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NSN No.

6070/9404

33 – Long Height: 66 to 70 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO

Size:7080/8494

36 – Long Height: 66 to 70 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7080/9404

39 – Long Height: 66 to 70 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NSN No.

7080/9404

36 – X Long Height: 70 to 74 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

8090/9404

39 – X Long Height: 70 to 74 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NSN No.

8090/9404

3.8.2 Identification and care label (all types, styles and classes). The combination identification/care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be stitched on inside of coat under the right chest pocket (as worn) vertically or parallel with the pocket angle with the top part of the label facing the top of the coat. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not penetrate the printing and shall not be visible on coat front. The color of the combination identification and care label shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric, 3.4.1 and 3.4.3. As an alternate, may use a stamp at the bottom of the right front panel. The color base of stamping shall be white with black letters.

3.8.2.1 Identification and care label (Type I Coat only, all styles and classes). The Type I label shall include the following information:

Coat, Advanced Combat Uniform - Unisex or Coat, Advanced Combat Uniform – Female Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets and remove patches. Close zipper and hook and loop fasteners. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS. DO NOT

APPLY HEAT OR AN IRON TO ANY HOOK AND LOOP FASTENER.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.8.2.2 Identification and care label, flame resistant (Type III Coat only, all styles and classes). The label for Type III shall include the following information:

Coat, Advanced Combat Uniform - Unisex or Coat, Advanced Combat Uniform – Female

FLAME RESISTANT

Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

This product meets the manufacturing and performance testing requirements as specified by the Program Executive Office – Soldier

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets and remove patches. Close zipper and hook and loop fasteners. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS. DO NOT

APPLY HEAT OR AN IRON TO ANY HOOK AND LOOP FASTENER.

THIS GARMENT IS FLAME RESISTANT

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.8.3 Insect repellent label (Class 2 and 3 only, all types and styles). The insect repellent label shall conform to MIL-PRF-32659 and shall be stitched on inside of coat under the left chest pocket (as worn) vertically or parallel with the pocket angle with the top of the label facing the top of the coat. The label shall include both permanent insect repellent and brand labeling information; and shall comply with the approved EPA registration as specified in MIL-PRF-32659. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not penetrate the printing and shall not be visible on coat front. The color for the insect repellent label for Classes 2 and 3 and identification/care label shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric, 3.4.1 and 3.4.3. As an alternate, may use a stamp at the bottom of the right front panel. The color base of stamping shall be white with black letters. The Class 2 and 3 insect repellent label shall be the approved EPA label (see example):

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Refer to hangtag for more information

Coat, Advanced Combat Uniform Contractor Name:

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

- Do Not Dry Clean

- Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

- Wash separate from other clothing

- In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

- Do Not Re-treat

- Dispose of garment in trash in accordance with DoD regulations

Repels mosquitoes Repellency remains effective for 50 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

(Insert chemistry name)….…...…………….(Insert percentage)% OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)………(Insert percentage)%

TOTAL……………………………………..100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling

Insect repellent label (example) for Classes 2 and 3.

3.8.4 Hang tag, Mosquito bite protection (Class 2 and 3 only, all types and styles). Each Class 2 and Class 3 coat shall have an individual paper tag attached to the garment conforming to MIL-PRF-32659. The color for the hang tag shall be white. The paper tag shall be Swift tacked at center back on inside collar joining seam. The tag shall provide additional Mosquito bite protection information in accordance with and as required by EPA registration and labeling. The hang tag shall be the approved EPA hang tag (see example).

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Contractor Name:

Contractor Address:

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

- Do Not Dry Clean

- Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

- Wash separate from other clothing

- In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

- Do Not Re-treat

- Dispose of garment in trash in accordance with DoD regulations

- For protection of exposed skin, use in conjunction with a repellent registered for direct application to the skin.

Repels mosquitoes Repellency remains effective for 50 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

(Insert chemistry name).…..……………. (Insert percentage)% OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)……. (Insert percentage)%

TOTAL………………………………… 100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.

Retain hangtag for future reference on proper handling of this garment.

THIS TAG NOT TO BE REMOVED EXCEPT BY CUSTOMER

Insect repellent hang tag (example) for Classes 2 and 3.

3.8.5 Barcode hang tag (all types, styles and classes). Each coat shall have a white paper barcode hang tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The hang tag shall be Swift tacked at center back on inside collar joining seam and shall be completely visible on the coat when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the coat. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code.

NOTE: The hang tag for insect protection and barcode may be applied jointly with the use of one (1) Swift tack.

3.9 Figures. Figures are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.10 List of pattern parts. The Government shall furnish patterns, which show directional line markings for proper cutting and assembly and are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. The Government patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2-inch for side seams, shoulder seams, and sleeve seams, 3/8-inch allowance for collar and all other seams, except where otherwise specified, and 1/4-inch allowance for pocket flaps. Pockets, pocket flaps, pencil pocket, elbow patches, cuffs, collar, slide fastener, patch loop tape, other hook and loop fastener tape, and bar-tacks shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns and table references. Minor modifications to the pattern are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacture’s processes to include garment treatments and use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the final design, serviceability, appearance, or final finished measurements. Table IVA and Table IVB pattern list is provided to ensure that the pattern set is complete for all types and styles of coats (see 6.2).

TABLE IVA. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Number Basic Material

Back PD1404A-BACK 1 Side Back PD1404A-SIDE_BACK 2 Left Front PD1404A-FRONT_LFT 1 Right Front PD1404A-FRONT_RT 1 Top Sleeve PD1404A-TOP_SLEEVE 2 Under Sleeve PD1404A-UNDR_SLEEVE 2 Collar PD1404A-COLLAR 2 Elbow Patch PD1404A-ELBOW_PATCH 2 Sleeve Pocket PD1404A-SLEEVE_PCKT 2 Sleeve Pocket Zipper Facing PD1404A-SLV_PKT_ZIP 2 Right Front Chest Pocket PD1404A-FT_CHST_PKR 1 Left Front Chest Pocket PD1404A-FT_CHST_PKL 1 Right Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404A-FLP_CHSTPKR 1 Left Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404A-FLP_CHSTPKL 1

TABLE IVA. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts.- Continued

Material - Continued

Cuff PD1404A-CUFF 2 Cuff Tab PD1404A-CUFF_TAB 2 Left Pen Pocket PD1404A-LFT_PEN_PKT 1

Fusible

Front Facing Fusible (Optional) PD1404A-FF_FUS-OPT 2 Collar Fusible PD1404A-COLLAR_FUSE 1

Templates IFF Webbing Template PD1404A-IFF_WEB_TEMP 0

TABLE IVB. Style B. Female list of pattern parts.

Material

Side Back PD1404B-SIDE_BACK 2 Left Front PD1404B-FRONT_LFT 1 Right Front PD1404B-FRONT_RT 1 Top Sleeve PD1404B-TOP_SLEEVE 2 Under Sleeve PD1404B-UNDR_SLEEVE 2 Collar PD1404B-COLLAR 2 Elbow Patch PD1404B-ELBOW_PATCH 2 Sleeve Pocket PD1404B-SLEEVE_PCKT 2 Sleeve Pocket Zipper Facing PD1404B-SLV_PKT_ZIP 2 Right Front Chest Pocket PD1404B-FT_CHST_PKR 1

Basic Material - Continued

Left Front Chest Pocket PD1404B-FT_CHST_PKL 1 Right Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404B-FLP_CHSTPKR 1 Left Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404B-FLP_CHSTPKL 1 Cuff PD1404B-CUFF 2 Cuff Tab PD1404B-CUFF_TAB 2 Left Pen Pocket PD1404B-LFT_PEN_PKT 1

Fusible

Front Facing Fusible (Optional) PD1404B-FF_FUS-OPT 2 Collar Fusible PD1404B-COLLAR_FUSE 1

Templates IFF Webbing Template PD1404B-IFF_WEB_TEMP 0

3.11 Configuration. Each coat shall conform to design, appearance (see figures 1-5), the finished measurements in Tables VIIA and VIIB and the construction methods specified in

3.11.1 through 3.11.2, and Tables V and VI in order to maintain configuration compliance.

3.11.1 Seams and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D6193 seam and stitch types listed in Table V. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished: turned-in, turned-under, or serged. The garment shall have no raw edges including inside pockets. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 11 (± 1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 10 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button. Buttonholes shall be 54 (± 2) stitches per inch including tack. All hook and loop tape shall be sewn with 10 (± 2) stitches per inch. The IFF material shall be sewn with 8 (± 1) stitches per inch. The sewn eyelets for the bellows pockets shall have a minimum of 16 stitches. The width of the bight of stitching shall not be less than 1/16-inch. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four (4) overlapping stitches with the purling on the outside. All stitches per inch and gauge requirements shall be met prior to any applicable garment treatments.

3.11.1.1 Repair of stitch.

3.11.1.2 Repairs of stitching. Repairs of stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner.

NOTE: When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.11.1.3 Repairs of type 401 stitching only. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.11.1.1 and 3.11.1.2, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching Type 301.

3.11.2 Stitching for hook and loop tape. The hook and loop tape shall be sewn with the use of a straight stitch, box stitch or box-X stitch with special stitched corners as specified in Table V.

TABLE V. Seam and stitch types.

Seam placement Seam type Gauge Stitch type Side seams, back sleeve seams, set in sleeves, armhole, shoulder seams

LSc-2 or Ssa2-2 and LSq-3

3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge (double lap seam)

301 or 401

Bi-swing seam Inner seam

Outer seam (pleat)

OR

Alternate Inner seam

Outer seam (pleat)

SSa-2

OSf-2

SSa-2

OSf-2

3/8 to 1/2-inch gauge

3/8 to 1/2-inch gauge

301 and 602

401 and 516

Top stitch pleat of bi-swing OSf-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge apart

Top stitching of pencil pocket, collar and front edge

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Top stitching of sleeve cuff tabs OSf-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from folded edge

Upper sleeve pocket bellows, inside pleat

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Upper sleeve pocket at both the front and back outer edges

Lsd-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge

Upper sleeve pocket slide fastener

Facing

Placement

Attachment

Efd-1

SSak-2

3/16-inch

See pattern for placement of slide fastener teeth from edge

Two (2) rows 1/8 to 1/4-inch apart

503 or 504

Attachment of pockets (When using automatic pocket setting equipment topstitching shall be 1/6, 1/8, or 3/16 gauge)

LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Sleeve pockets Efd-1 3/16-inch 503 or 504

TABLE V. Seam and stitch types. - Continued

Setting of chest pocket flaps

Top stitch

OR

Top stitch

LSba-2

LSb1-2

Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch

3/16 to 1/4-inch from serged edge, then turn flap burying raw edge and top stitch one

(1) row 1/4 to 5/16-inches from turned edge

Pocket edge stitching Ssa-1 3/16 to 5/16-inches from edge 502, 503 or 504

Attachment of elbow reinforcements

LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Front slide fastener

Placement

SSak-2

See pattern for placement of slide fastener teeth from front edge

Two (2) rows 1/8 to 1/4-inch

Bottom hemming EFb-1 1/2 to 3/4-inch wide hem, double turned clean finished, stitching 1/16 to 1/8-inch from hem fold

Setting cuffs LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Topstitch collar SSa-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301 Front closure hook and loop tape LSbj-1

Box-X, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from selvage edge

Chest pocket flap hook tape LSbj-1 Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from

Name tape, U.S. Military Service tape, IFF, Rank tape and chest pocket loop tape

LSbj-1

Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from

Glint material attachment to IFF loop tape

LSbj-1 Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from selvage edge (see IFF template)

Nylon tape attachment onto IFF loop tape

LSbj-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge of nylon tape (see IFF pattern template)

TABLE V. Seam and stitch types. - Continued

Hook fastener tape attachment onto IFF tab nylon tape cover

LSbj-1 Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from selvage edge (see IFF pattern template)

FR identification marker to left sleeve cuff, visible from outside (Types II and III only)

LSbj-1

Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from

Labels LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge 301

3.11.3 Bar-tacks and back-tacks. To maintain durability and functionality, bar-tacks shall be placed as specified in Table VI. Bar-tacks shall be 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide. Nominal lengths and stitches per tack shall also be as specified in Table VI. Back-tacks shall have two (2) to four (4) rows of stitching.

TABLE VI. Bar-tack and back-tack placement.

Bar-tack or back-tack placement

Size of tack

(inches)

Stitches per tack

1/

# of Bar-tacks per garment

# of Back-tacks per garment

Horizontal Vertical

Front chest pocket flaps (superimposed on topstitching)

a. Top (left and right)

5/8

X

Chest pockets and flaps

a. Loop tape (pocket)

b. Hook tape (flap)

4 or 4 4 or 4

Lower sleeve cuff tab at ends

1/2

Pencil pocket

a. Top (left, center, right)

b. Bottom (center)

Upper sleeve pocket -through all layers

a. Top front

b. Bottom front

c. Top back (opposite slide fastener)

TABLE VI. Bar-tack and back-tack placement. - Continued

Bar-tack or back-tack

Size of tack

(inches)

Stitches per tack

1/

# of Bar-tacks per garment

# of Back-tacks per garment

Horizontal Vertical

Alternate Upper sleeve pocket - through all layers

a. Top front

b. Bottom front

c. Top back (opposite slide fastener)

d. Top back (end of closure stitching)

Upper sleeve pockets

a. Loop tape 2/

8 or 8

Front slide fastener tape

a. Top

b. Bottom

All slide fastener thongs at center (front and upper sleeve pockets)

Bi-swing (locations as indicated on patterns)

a. Upper

b. Lower

End of…