GL_PD 07_07C.pdf

INCH POUND

GL/PD 07-07C

4 March 2009_

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, WOMAN’S, CLASSIC DESIGN, POLYESTER/WOOL,

ARMY BLUE 450, FUSIBLE

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a women’s polyester/ wool serge coat intended for wear by female military personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The coats will be in the following types, sizes and lengths:

Class 1 - Polyester/Wool Serge, Army Blue 450 Class 2 - Polyester/Wool Tropical, Army Blue 450 Class 3 - Wool, Elastique, Army Blue 150

Schedule of sizes

Junior

Petite (P) Regular (R) Tall (T) X-Tall (XT)

FSC 8410

Misses

Women’s

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all the specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-823 - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-3738 - Cloth, Elastique, Wool MIL-B-13466 - Braid, Textile and Lace, Vellum, Woven Textile (For Blue Dress Uniform) MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts MIL-DTL-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

MILITARY STANDARDS

MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling for Women’s Uniform Clothing MIL-STD-1608 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women’s, Dress

(Copies are available on-line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 - First Article Approval – Government Testing

(Copies are available on-line at http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness of Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.aatcc.org or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27705-2215.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam ASTM D 1776 - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D-6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available on-line from http://www.astm.org or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.asq.org/

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (4th edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057-1060, 2001

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable material. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The design is a fitted, single breasted, four-button coat with side body construction, front bust seam from shoulder to top of pockets, slanted flap pockets, open notch collar, and two-piece sleeves with shoulder loops. The shoulder loops for the coat shall have rounded edges at edge nearest the collar and have gold cord edge braid attached. The back has a vent in the bottom of the center back seam and the inside of the coat is 3/8 lined, with a yoke back, fully lined sleeves, and one inside chest pocket. The coat shall have gold soutache sleeve ornamentation included in the pocket for attachment to the sleeves. The sleeves and sleeve linings shall be left unfinished at bottom, but shall be turned up and tacked at notches.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material.

3.4.1.1 Class 1. The basic material for the Class 1 coat shall conform to Type III, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-823, except the weight shall be 9.5 – 10.5 oz/linear yd. The color shall be Army Blue 450.

3.4.1.2 Class 2 (MDW). The basic material for the Class 2 coat shall conform to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-DTL-21115. The weight shall be 10.0 ounces and the color shall be Army Blue 450.

http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.4.1.3 Class 3 (MDW). The basic material for the Class 3 coat shall conform to Type III of MIL-C-3738. The weight shall be 16 ounces and the color shall be Army Blue 150.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for the lining shall be a polyester twill cloth, conforming to Class 3 of A-A-52106. The color of the lining material shall be black.

3.4.3 Binding. The binding for the coat shall be cut on the bias of the same material as the coat lining (see 3.4.2). The width of the bias binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch. The binding may be placed on rolls.

3.4.4 Fusible interlinings.

3.4.4.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The lapels, front facing, pocket flaps, top sleeve, under sleeve, top collar, lapel notch reinforcement, (non-automatic construction), and shoulder loops, all known as “small parts” shall use a black or charcoal, nonwoven fusible interlining. It shall conform to either Type V or VI, Class 1, Style A or B, or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A, of

MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat and side body fronts shall be a black or charcoal, napped, woven twill material conforming to Type II or Type III (non-automatic construction), Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296. As an alternate, Style No. T3G weft inserted knit may be used.

3.4.4.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for pre-production and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.2, and a minimum of 24 ounces or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.3.3.1. As an option, the bonding strength may be conducted up to two hours after the initial fusing takes place.

3.4.4.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.4.4.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.3.3.1.

Additionally, the interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.4.4.6, shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.3.1. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.4.4.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315oF. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness.

Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on Figure 4.

3.4.5 Pocketing and lining cloth. The material for the lower hanging pockets, inside chest pocket, bridle stays, back neck stay, armhole stays, chest pocket stays, and front edge stays shall be polyester and cotton cloth matching the shade of the basic material or dyed black conforming to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the nonfibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply.

3.4.6 Undercollar material. The material shall be a wool blend felt fabric conforming to MIL-C-29137, or a 100 percent polyester needle-punched nonwoven material weighing between

8.0 to 10.0 oz./sq. yd. with a thickness between 0.070 to 0.095 inch at 0.6 psi (pounds per square inch), and exhibiting a cross-machine direction stiffness of 0.050 load pounds (minimum) when tested in accordance with ASTM D 747 (see 3.4.6.1). The color shall be black.

3.4.6.1 Undercollar material stiffness. Stiffness (bending moment) shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D 747 except as follows:

a. Unless otherwise specified, the testing conditions shall be in accordance with ASTM D 1776.

b. The test specimen shall be a rectangle of cloth of dimensions two (2) by one (1) inches with the long dimension parallel to the fabric direction under test, warp or filling, as applicable.

c. The load scale reading shall be recorded only at the specimen angular deflection of 60 degrees.

d. The stiffness is the bending moment of specimen at a deflection angle of 60 degrees and shall be calculated to three significant figures as follows:

Bending moment, in. - lb. = Load scale reading x moment weight*

* Testing machine of Tinius Olsen Testing Machine Co.

3.4.7 Components.

3.4.7.1 Chest piece. The chest piece for the coat shall conform to Type XXV of

MIL-C-15065.

3.4.7.2 Braids.

3.4.7.2.1 Hanger loop. The braid for the hanger loop shall be a cotton tubular braid, flat 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide conforming to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color shall be black and the finished braid shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning equal to or better than 3-4 according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 and shall show colorfastness to crocking equal to or better than “3.5” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.4.7.2.2 Cord edge braid. The shoulder loops shall be edged in goldenlite color nylon cord edge braid, 3/32 inch wide conforming to Type I, Class 2 of MIL-B-13466.

3.4.7.2.3 Sleeve ornamentation. The sleeve ornamentation shall be a 1/8 inch wide soutache braid, goldenlite color nylon, conforming to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-B-13466. The length of each piece of soutache, to be placed in the inside pocket, shall be 32 + 1/2 inches. This piece shall be used for both sleeves.

3.4.7.2 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064. As an alternate, the shoulder pad shall conform to the following requirements:

The shoulder pads shall have a top and bottom cover of 4 ounces psi white, needle punched polyester felt when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3776, Option C. The filler shall be cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces are not acceptable. The top cover shall be notched for shoulder seam alignment 4-3/4 inches from the front of the pad. The pad shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multilane of basting, totaling 6 rows. The pad shall have a compressed finished thickness measuring 3/8 inch + 1/8 inch using a one-inch foot at 0.1 psi. The finished pad shall measure 8- 1/2 to 9-1/2 inches in length, and 4-1/2 to 5 inches in width, with a 1/2 inch armhole cutout on each side. The pads shall not be significantly altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially drycleaned 3 times with an environmentally acceptable solution. The pad shall have a minimum breaking strength of 6.0 pounds in the machine direction and a minimum of 3.0 pounds in the cross direction when tested in accordance with ASTM D 5034, Option G-T or G-E.

3.4.7.4 Sleeve-heads. The sleeve–heads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064, except that the length shall be 8 to 9 inches for sizes 4 -8; 10 to 11 inches for sizes 10-16; and 12 to 13 inches for sizes 18-26. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll) cut to required length sleeve-head can be used.

3.4.7.5 Stay tape. The material for the stay tape shall be preshrunk cotton conforming to Type I, Class 1, 2, or 3 (dyed black) of A-A-52071, except that the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. When black tape is used, the finished tape shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspiration equal to or better than “3-4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 and shall show colorfastness to crocking equal to or better than “3.5” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, when tested as specified in

4.3.1. The stays shall be 1/4 inch for armholes. The raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. As an alternate, a fusible edge tape, as specified in 3.4.7.6, may be used.

3.4.7.6 Fusible edge tape. The fusible edge tape shall be Type I, Style B, Class 1, dyed black or charcoal, conforming to MIL-C-44296, except it shall be cut in the filling (cross cut) direction at a width of 1/4 + 1/8, -0 inch. The edges shall be sewn together using an LSa-1 seam, 304 stitch (as specified in ASTM D 6193) at 12 to 16 stitches per inch with 70/2 thread conforming to A-A-50199. All sewn edges shall be within fusible dot area such that the adhesive will not exhibit any breaks or blank areas on either side of the joining seam.

3.4.7.7 Thread.

3.4.7.7.1 Thread, polyester core, cotton- or polyester covered. The cotton or polyester covered polyester core thread shall conform to A-A-50199 with the colors specified in 3.4.7.7.5, matching the standard sample. The thread sizes and manufacturing uses are as follows:

Use Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching of coat 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3 50 (Tex 36-45) 2 70 (Tex 31-35) 2 Blindstitching, overedging, and machine felling (except when the use of silk or alternate nylon is indicated in Table II) 70 (Tex 31-35) 2 Button sewing, hand 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3 Button sewing, machine (except automatic sew and shank type, see 3.4.7.8) 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3 Sleeve braid soutache 50 (Tex 36-45) 2 or 3 Tacking armhole and attaching sleeve-heads 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3

3.4.7.7.2 Thread, silk. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 in the types, sizes, and manufacturing uses as follows. The colors shall be as specified in 3.4.7.7.5.

Use Thread type Size Machine tacking Machine twist 0 (Tex 27 ) Hand felling or machine type felling Hand sewing A or C (Tex 40 or Tex 60) Machine made buttonholes Machine twist B or C (Tex 45 or Tex 60) Handmade buttonholes Button twist, tailors 10 (Tex 135)

3.4.7.7.3 Thread, nylon. The nylon thread may be used as an alternate to the silk thread as specified in 3.4.7.7.2. The nylon thread may also be used for padding lapels and collar. The color shall be as specified in 3.4.7.7.5. The nylon thread shall conform to the following types and sizes of V-T-295 (see 6.5):

Thread type Size Ply IV (Hand-sewing twist, waxed finish) A and C (Tex 36 and 45) 2 VI (Tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish) 0, B, and F (Tex 24, 40, and 97) 2 and 3 III (Monocord, bonded finish) 00 (Tex 20) (for padding) 1 V (Handmade buttonhole) 10 (Tex 132) (for buttonhole) 3

3.4.7.7.4 Thread, basting. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton thread. As an alternate, the cotton-covered, polyester core thread used for seaming and stitching or the nylon thread used in hand or machine type felling may be used for those operations where the thread is required to be removed, providing the coat is subsequently given a treatment by a drycleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble.

When the soluble thread is used, any residue remaining in the coat after the drycleaning process shall be brushed off or removed (see 6.9).

3.4.7.7.5 Color. The color of the polyester-core silk or nylon threads shall match the standard sample for Black AA (C.A. 66043), except the thread for stitching the soutache braid to the sleeve shall match the goldenlite shade. The thread for tacking the armholes and attaching the sleeve-heads and pads shall be white.

3.4.7.7.6 Colorfastness. All dyed threads shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration and drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.4.7.8 Automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine, which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is utilized, the thread shall be nylon, waxed monocord, Special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 15 pounds and a minimum length per unit weight of 3600 yards per pound when tested for those requirements and for colorfastness (see 3.4.7.7.6).

3.4.7.9 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, soft or glazed finished, Size 8 (Tex 210), conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp thread shall match the standard sample for Black Shade AA. The dyed gimp shall show colorfastness to drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.4.7.10 Buttons. The buttons shall be metal, uniform, 25-line hopper back for the shoulder loops and 30-line hopper back for the front, conforming to Type I, Style 2, 22K Gold, Classes A or B of MIL-B-3461.

3.4.8 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification and instruction label and a size label.

3.4.8.1 Combination identification and instruction label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to Type VI of MIL-DTL-32075. As an alternate to the material specified in MIL-DTL-32075, the label material may be a 100% polyester coated tape conforming to Avery Dennison's Style # 4800WT or Style # 4822WT (see 6.11). The letters for the caption shall be not less than 3/16 inch in height, and all other lettering shall be not less than 1/8 inch in height. The labels shall show colorfastness to drycleaning equal to or better than “3- 4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

The combination identification and instruction label for Class 1 shall include the following information:

COAT, WOMAN’S, CLASSIC DESIGN, POLYESTER/WOOL, ARMY BLUE 450, FUSIBLE

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY.

2. Use a damp cloth for outside pressing.

3. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

4. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be 325°F + 5°F on wool setting with steam.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL.

The combination identification and instruction label for Classes 2 and 3 shall include the following information:

COAT, WOMAN’S, ARMY BLUE (MDW)

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY.

2. Use a damp cloth for outside pressing.

3. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be

325o + 5oF on wool setting with steam.

4. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.4.8.2 Size labels. Each coat shall have a white, nonwoven acrylic coated, commercial type size label which shall be stitched to the inside center back at the neck seam (see Table II, Operation 27.i). The end of the stitching need not be tacked providing the stitching extends at least 1/2 inch beyond each end of the label. The stitching shall not be through the printing. Each coat shall have a separate size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2, of MIL-DTL-32075, and body dimensions labeling requirements conforming to MIL-STD-984. The label shall indicate size, body dimensions, and National Stock Number (NSN) and shall be as follows:

SIZE CODE: 12JP (EXAMPLE)

BUST CIRC: 37-1/2 (EXAMPLE)

HIP CIRC.: 40 (EXAMPLE)

HEIGHT: Less than 63-1/2 inches (P) (EXAMPLE)

STOCK NO.: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NOTE: Abbreviations for the applicable body type shall be “J” for Juniors, “M” for Misses, and “W” for Women’s. Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be “P” for Petite, “R” for Regular, “T” for Tall and “XT” for X-Tall.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

SIZE CODE BUST CIRC. HIP CIRC.

4J 32-1/2 33 4M 32-1/2 35 4W 32-1/2 37 6J 33-1/2 34 6M 33-1/2 36 6W 33-1/2 38 8J 34-1/2 35 8M 34-1/2 37 8W 34-1/2 39 10J 36 36-1/2 10M 36 38-1/2 10W 36 40-1/2 12J 37-1/2 38 12M 37-1/2 40

12W 37-1/2 42 14J 39 39-1/2

14M 39 41-1/2 14W 39 43-1/2 16J 41 41-1/2 16M 41 43-1/2 16W 41 45-1/2 18J 43 43-1/2 18M 43 45-1/2 18W 43 47-1/2 20J 45 45-1/2 20M 45 47-1/2 20W 45 49-1/2 22J 47 47-1/2 22M 47 49-1/2 22W 47 51-1/2 24J 49 49-1/2 24M 49 51-1/2 24W 49 53-1/2 26J 51 51-1/2 26M 51 53-1/2 26W 51 55-1/2

HEIGHT RANGES

Less than Over 63-1/2 inches 63-1/2 to 67 inches 67 to 70-1/2 inches 70-1/2 inches

Petite Regular Tall X-Tall

3.4.8.3 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit universal product code (UPC) assigned for all NSN’s by the Government. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5 Figures. Figures are furnished solely for guidance and information. Should variations from the written specification appear in the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that the additional notches for using during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification. The standard patterns shall provide the following seam allowances:

1/4 inch 3/8 inch 5/16 inch Shoulder loop seams Pocket flap setting seam Top collar setting seam Pocket flap setting seam Under sleeve to top sleeve (alternate construction) Sleeve setting seam 5/8 inch Outer arc of shield Shoulder seam Center back seam Pocket flap construction Front bust seam Side body to side Front facing to fronts Side body to front back seam Set back vent All other seams, unless otherwise specified 3/16 inch Turn in for top of back vent

3.6.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the coat shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table I:

Table I. List of pattern parts

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts Basic material Side front SFR 2

Front FR 2 Side body SBO 2 Back BK 2 Under sleeve USL 2 Top sleeve TSL 2 Top collar TCO 1 Top collar – block TCOBLK 1 Shoulder loop LOOP 4 Front facing FRFAC 2 Lower pocket flap – block 1/ LWPKFL 4 Lower pocket flap – die LWRFLAP DIE 4 Armhole shield AHSHIELD 2 Lower pocket facing LWPKFAC 2 Lower pocket piping LWPKPIPE 2

Lining cloth Front lining FRLIN 2 Top sleeve lining TSLLIN 2 Under sleeve lining USLLIN 2 Inside breast pocket piping INBRPKPIPE 1 Back lining BKLIN 1 Vent lining VENTLIN 1 Inside breast pocket facing INBRPKFAC 1 Side body lining SBOLIN 2

Pocketing and lining Lower pocket LWPKT 2 2/ Inside breast pocket INBRPKT 1 Inside breast pocket stay INBRPKSTAY 1

Undercollar cloth (felt) Undercollar – die UCO 1 Undercollar – block UCOBLK 1

Haircloth Chest piece canvas CHESTPCINT 2 Chest piece wedge CHSTPCWEDGE 2

Chest piece interlining SHPCINT 2

Press wool felt Chest piece felt SHPCFELT 2

Table I. List of pattern parts (cont’d)

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts Fusible interlining cloth, fronts

Front fusible

FRFUS

Side front fusible SFRFUS 2

Fusible interlining cloth, small parts

Front facing fusible

FRFACFUS

Shoulder loop fusible LOOPFUS 2 Lower pocket flap fusible – block LWPKFLFUS 2 Lower pocket flap fusible – die LWRFLFUSDIE 2 Top sleeve fusible TSLFUS 2 Under sleeve fusible USLFUS 2 Top collar fusible TCOFUS 2

Shapers Collarstand COSTDSHP Finished lapel (pressing) FLAPELSHP Working lapel (stitch) WLAPELSHP Finish flap (Size 0-6) FINLRFPO-6 Finish flap (Size 8-16) FINLRFP8-16 Finish flap (Size 18-26) FINLRFP18-26

Test square TESTSQ 1

1/ When cutting the lower pocket flap for Class 3 - cut 2 from basic material and cut 2 from lining material 2/ The lower pocket lining may be cut in one piece.

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. All stitches, seams, and stitching will conform to ASTM D 6193. The type of seam, stitching, and stitches per inch will be as specified in Table II.

When two or more methods of seams or stitch types are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn, so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is not tight or loose stitching. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16 inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.7.1.1 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table II.

3.7.1.2 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or over-stitched not less than 1/4 inch except label, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label and hand stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.7.1.3 Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs of Type 301 and 306 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. Loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors.

Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.7.1.4 Repairs of type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by super-imposing new tack or blindstitching in same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.7.1.5 Repairs of type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.3.a and 3.7.1.3.b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.

Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by the use of stitch type 301.

3.7.1.6 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings (except darts), when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels, where the overlap shall be not less than three stitches. The ends of hand felling shall be tacked with not less than three stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. The thread ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2 inch.

3.7.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, square bar, cut-first type worked over gimp with the ends of the gimp pulled through to the underside. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be bartacked by hand or machine, the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching, and the gimp. The finished cut length of the buttonhole for the front closures shall be 7/8+1/8, -0 inch. The cut of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than 5/8 inch nor more than 3/4 inch. Tack the ends of the buttonhole with a 1/4 inch bartack containing 21 stitches, if done by machine, or 6 to 8 stitches if done by hand. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the bartack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric, prior to stitching the buttonholes, is prohibited.

3.7.3 Fusible interlinings pressed on a fusing press. A single layer fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time and temperature for a minimum of eight hours. Pair or sandwich fusing that can create differential shrinkage;

stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on the chart as shown on Figure 4.

3.7.4 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 1/4 to 3/8 inch long, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.7.5 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew on type tickets.

c. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided that the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coats shall be manufactured in accordance with operations requirements specified in Table II. Unless otherwise specified in Table II, the contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed, provided the finished coat is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensions, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in this specification. Any additional basting or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished coat.

3.8.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table II shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for those coats . Any additional underpressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Fusibles shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommend time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.8.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table II, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished shaper pattern is furnished, the component shall conform to that pattern.

3.8.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table II are as follows:

Btn - Button Btnhl - Buttonhole Commer - Commercial Mchne - Machine

No.

Table II.

Manufacturing Operations Requirements

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

1.

Cutting.

a. Spread the material without tension in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric. The cut parts from the top and bottom ply shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Lay the material in uniform widths and lengths. The plies shall not be stretched, pulled and full, and one side of the lay shall be even. Mark each component part in the top of the main lay with the size of the coat.

c. Cut the coat in strict accordance with the patterns furnished, which show directional lines, size and notches for proper assembly of parts.

Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction of the material.

Waist notches shall be shallow to permit alterations.

d. Cut all basic material parts of each coat out of the same piece of material, except the under pocket flaps and pocket facing, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the basic material. For Class 3 coats under pocket flaps shall be cut from lining material (see 3.4.2).

e. Cut all lining parts of each coat out of the same piece of material, except sleeve linings and shields that may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the lining. The two sleeve linings shall match in shade and the two finished shields shall match in shade. Cut binding on a 45° bias, 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide, to desired finished length.

f. Cut lining pieces for inside chest pocket facing 4-3/4 inches wide by 6- 5/8 inches long in the warp direction.

Table II. (cont’d)

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

1.

Cutting. (cont’d)

g. Cut the cloth for stays of sufficient length to meet operation requirements and in the direction and width as follows (the cloth may be placed on rolls):

Cut Location Direction Width (inches) Bridle and chest pocket Warp 1/2 Front edge Filling 1/4 Back neck Filling 3/4 Armhole Bias 1/4 and 3/4

h. Cut the fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to be fused.

i. Cut the hanger loop of sufficient length to comply with finished length.

(See Operation 27.i.).

j. Cut the interlining cloth for undercollar in accordance with patterns furnished.

k. Cut the piece of soutache for sleeves, 30 + 1/2 inches. Cut 2 for each coat.

l. Cut the cloth for the undercollar in accordance with patterns furnished.

m. Chest pieces:

(1) Cut the cloth for the chest piece interlining and shoulder piece interlining in accordance with patterns furnished.

(2) Cut the felt for the shoulder piece in accordance with patterns furnished.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

2.

3.

4.

Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to ensure that material defects and damages, as classified in MIL-STD-1608, are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Shade markings.

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings, whether cut from the ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from the ends need not be shade marked. Any method may be used except as indicated in 3.7.5.

b. Identify the test swatches of basic material and fusible interlining that represent every 1000 coat units of production.

Fusing.

a. Fuse the following fronts parts with a woven fusible interlining (Type II of MIL-C-44296):

(1) Fronts: Position in the center with all edges set back 1/8 inch.

Super-impose the lapel notch reinforcement on the top of the lapel with edges set back 1/8 inch from front, top, and gorge edges.

(2) Side fronts: Position in the center, with all edges set back 1/8 inch.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

4.

5.

Fusing. (cont’d)

b. Fuse the following small parts with a nonwoven fusible interlining (Type V or VI of MIL-C-44296):

(1) Top collar: Match notches. All remaining edges shall be set back 1/8 inch.

(2) Pocket flaps. Match notches. All remaining edges shall be set back 1/8 inch from collar edges.

(3) Top and under sleeves: Line up notches with side edges set back 1/8 inch from sleeve side edges.

(4) Shoulder loops: Place interlining even with round edge, edges set back 1/8 inch from top and bottom edge.

(5) Fuse woven and nonwoven test swatches.

(6) Front facing: Line up with shoulder. All remaining edges shall be set back 1/8 inch from facing edges.

NOTE: Fused lots and test swatches shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing.

Make shoulder loops.

Finished appearance . The loop shall be made with two pieces (top and bottom) of basic material using goldenlite color nylon cord edge braid as ornamentation. The shoulder loop shall finish 2-1/4 inches wide at the

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

5. Make shoulder loops. (cont’d) outside shoulder edge and 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches wide at the end closest to the inside collar edge and shall be piped all around with goldenlite color nylon edge braid (see 3.4.7.2.2). The braid shall be inserted in the joining seams so that only the goldenlite nylon cord shall be visible completely around each loop when finished. The loop shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size. The end of the loop nearest the collar shall have a rounded end to facilitate the sewing of the cord edge braid to the bottom and top plies of the loop. The goldenlite nylon cord edge braid shall show and shall not be covered by the collar when the coat is finished and pressed.

a. Sew binding onto shoulder loop catching interlining.

b. Join top piece onto the bottom so that the interlining will finish inside the loop and also support the buttonhole.

c. Trim, turn and topstitch edges of the shoulder loop 1/16 inch from the folded edge of basic fabric.

d. Press loop.

SSav-2(a) (with cord edge braid)

SSav-2(b)

SSax-2(b)

10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

5.

6.

Make shoulder loops. (cont’d)

e. Make an eyelet end buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be centered on the narrow end of each loop. The inside edge of the buttonhole shall be 5/8 inch from the finished cord edge of the shoulder loop. The cut of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than 5/8 inch nor more than 3/4 inch.

Make pocket flaps.

Finished appearance. The flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

The flaps shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket flap shaper. The seamed edges and the corners of the flaps shall be well worked out and the lining shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps.

a. Position the fused outer flap to the underflap. Sew ends and bottom of flap and trim point. Turn flap to right side and work out edges.

b. Baste edges. Press flaps flat. The lining underflap must not show on the outside of flap.

Mchne

101 or hand

SSe-2 (a)

63-70 per 1 inch btnhl or 70-80 per 1-1/8 inch btnhl or 70-80 per 1-1/8 inch btnhl

C or B Nylon or B nylon

10 silk or 10 nylon

Commer

C or B Nylon or F nylon

10 silk or 10 nylon

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

7.

Make collar.

Finished appearance. The collar shall be uniform in appearance and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or raw edges (top and sides). The composite undercollar shall be one piece and the undercollar interlining is not required.

a. Mark and shape the undercollar to conform to the pattern shaper. Cut in accordance with the undercollar shaper, or undercollar may be die cut to conform to the pattern shaper.

b. Mark the breakline of the undercollar with the undercollar stand marker.

c. Stitch undercollar at the breakline. The stand shall be 1-1/4 + 1/8 inches at the center.

d. Mark the top collar with the pattern shaper.

e. Baste top edge of finished undercollar along straight top edge of top collar matching the notches and distributing fullness of top collar between the notches on the outer edge of the undercollar and top collar.

NOTE: When top edge of the collar is machine felled with simulated hand felling, operation 7.e. may be omitted.

f. Baste the top collar to the undercollar along the crease line and outer edge, putting in the proper fullness

g. Trim, turn and base the edges of the top collar.

Hand or

SSa-1

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

7.

8.

Make collar. (cont’d)

h. Fell top and side edges of top collar to finished undercollar by hand, or top edge may be machine felled with simulated hand felling. The corners and sides shall be felled by hand.

The side edges may be 301 stitched 1/8 inch from the finished shaped edge through all plies. Trim the top collar material only 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the finished seam line.

NOTE: When simulated handstitching is used, the operation shall precede collar basting and the fullness of the top collar shall be distributed between the matched notches on the outer edge of the undercollar and top collar.

i. Trim the bottom (neck) edge of top collar to allow for seaming.

j. Press and crease the stand of the top collar and the undercollar together in one operation to shape, holding the creaseline short and stretching the outer edge of the collar across the area of the shoulders.

Make coat sleeves and sleeve linings.

Finished appearance. The sleeves and sleeve linings shall be uniform in width. The seams shall be pressed smooth and flat and shall be without gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The lining shall not be

(simulated felling)

8-10

C silk or A silk or B nylon

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

Make coat sleeves and sleeve linings. (cont’d) short or tight at bottom of sleeves. The sleeve cuff turn up shall be tacked to the inseam and outseam seam allowance.

a. Join forearm seams of sleeves, distributing fullness between notches.

b. Press forearm seam open and flat, holding the seam short.

c. The turn up of the sleeve lining cuff shall be attached to the bottom of sleeve with a temporary long blind stitch using white thread.

NOTE: The soutache shall be placed in the inside pocket of coat and attached when required sleeve length is finalized.

d. Stitch lining forearm and backarm seams.

e. The sleeve linings shall extend not less than 9/16 inch above the top of sleeve. Tack forearm seam and backarm seam of sleeve lining to forearm seam and backarm seam of sleeves, respectively, distributing lining fullness evenly. The tacking shall extend not more than 5 inches below top of sleeve to not more than 8 inches above unfinished sleeve bottom.

f. As an alternate, when using a sleeve lining felling machine (see 6.10), join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The distance between the notches on the forearm seam shall be left open.

Hand or 301

301 or

103 or

2-3 4-8

4-6

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

9.

Make coat sleeves and sleeve linings. (cont’d)

g. Position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the backarm sleeve hem. Tack forearm seam and backarm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and the backarm seam, respectively. The back-arm seam tacking shall extend from approximately the midpoint at the back-arm seam to not more than 6 inches above the unfinished sleeve bottom. The forearm seam tacking shall be for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

h. Pull sleeve through lining. The sleeve lining shall be left unfinished but be of a sufficient length to alter for turn under (see Operation 34.j).

NOTE: Operations 8.d and 8.e may be performed after stitching backarm seam (see operation 8.f).

Make sweat shields and yoke.

a. Bind the bottom raw edge of shield (see 3.4.3).

b. Seam a 1/2 + 1/8 inch hem on bottom of one piece of yoke lining with the stitching 1/8 + 1/16 inch from turned edge.

c. Press a 3/4 to 1 inch pleat at center and press across the bottom edge of the yoke. Fold shall be to the left side, as worn.

or 301

BSc-1

EFb-1

2-3 4-8

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

10.

11.

12.

Make lining fronts and attach combination identification instruction label.

a. Fold the uncut waist darts, as indicated by marks on pattern, and stitch.

The darts shall be tapered to nothing, 1 + 1/16 inch beyond drill holes.

b. Position the label on the right front (as worn) with the right side of label 2 to 2-1/2 inches from and parallel with, the front raw edge of lining.

The top of label shall be 2 + 1/8 inches below the waist darts. Stitch the label on all four sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

Join front lining to side body

Join front lining to side body lining with a 3/8 inch seam. Press seams towards side.

Make inside breast pocket.

a. Join left front lining to left front facing. Press seams and darts towards side body.

b. Mark position for a 1/8 to 3/16 inch double-piped pocket on the left front lining, as indicated on the pattern.

c. The top and bottom raw edges of the facing shall be turned in and seamed to the twill cloth pocket. When either edge is selvaged, the edge need not be turned in.

OSf-1

LSbj-1

LSd-1

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

Make inside breast pocket. (cont’d)

d. Seam twill cloth pocket, positioned at marks on coat facing and lining with twill cloth stay extending to the armhole on the underside, with two rows of stitching, no less than 1/4 or more than 3/8 inch apart.

e. Cut opening of the pocket and tongue notch the ends of the opening.

The finished length of the pocket opening shall be not less than 4-3/8 + 1/8 inches for sizes 2 through 10 and not…