FINAL GL-PD-20023 - Belt Coat-1 Sept 20.pdf

GL-PD-20023

1 September 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

BELT, COAT, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester/wool belt that is intended for wear on the male and female Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU) Coats as a replacement belt.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The belts will be available in one (1) type and in the following classes and sizes:

2.1 Classes. The belts are available in the following classes:

Class 1 - Belt, Men’s Class 2 - Belt, Women’s

2.2 Sizes. The belts are available in the sizes specified in 3.9.

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. The belt design shall be pointed on a 45-degree angle on one (1) end and the other end shall be square. The square end shall have a button and buttonhole used to attach a removable buckle (see 7.5).

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the belt shall conform to Class 1 of GL-PD-19007.

The color shall match Heritage Green 564.

AMSC N/A FSC 8315

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

3.2.2 Interlining. The fusible interlining for the belt, shall conform to either Type V or VI, Class 1, Style A or B; or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A of MIL-C-44296. The color shall be black or charcoal.

3.3 Components.

3.3.1 Button. The button shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style 20 or 21, 24-ligne of A-A-59994. The color of the button shall be Heritage Green 564 (see 7.7.1).

3.3.2 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall conform to Table I. All thread shall be non-staining and shall conform to the requirements in A-A-50199. The thread color for all visible stitching shall be a good match to the basic material (see 7.7.2).

TABLE I. Thread requirements.

Component Area Thread Specification Tex Size

Seaming and stitching A-A 50199, Type I or Type II 40 Overedge A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 31-35 Button sewing, hand and machine A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 61-70

3.4 Labels. Each belt shall have a combination identification and instruction label, a size label and a barcode label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/instruction label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the printing shall be black.

3.4.1 Combination identification and instructions label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to Type VIII, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. As an alternate, when the belt is packaged in a plastic bag, the combination identification and instruction label, the certification label and the barcode label may be located on the packaging by either stamping or printing on the bag or on a sticker and attached to the packaging (plastic bag). The label shall contain the item name, shade number, lot number, contractor’s name, contract number and the following laundering instructions:

INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

3.4.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075.

The size label shall be placed on the square end of the belt, stitched on one side, along the overedged end to indicate size and contain the information in the examples below.

Class 1 Class 2

3.4.3 Bar code label. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each belt shall have a bar code label in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. As an alternate, when the belt is packaged in a plastic bag, the combination and identification label, the certification label and the bar code label may be located on the packaging by either stamping or printing on the bag or on a sticker and attached to the packaging (plastic bag). The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSN’s by the Government. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the belt when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the belt.

3.4.4 Certification label. Each belt, produced for the Army & Air Force Exchange Services (AAFES) or commercial sales, shall have a hang tag label attached stating certification information as described in 5.5 (see 7.8). As an alternate, when the belt is packaged in a plastic bag, the identification label, the certification label and the UPC label may be located on the packaging by either stamping or printing on the bag or on a sticker and attached to the packaging (plastic bag).

3.4.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

Laundering instructions

a. DRY CLEAN ONLY

b. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

c. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be 325 (± 5) )°F on wool setting with steam.

d. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

Belt for coat size: 12 Belt for coat size: 42

3.5 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. All stitches, seams, and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn, so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.5.1 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be 10 to 12 stitches per inch.

3.5.2 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except label, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label and hand stitching shall be overlapped not less than three (3) stitches. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.5.3 Repairs of Type 301stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitched. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.5.4 Repairs of Type 101 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by super-imposing new tack or blindstitching in the same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching 1/2-inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.5.5 Repairs of Type 503 and 504 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.5.3.a.

and 3.5.3.b, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears.

3.5.6 Thread breaks and ends of seams. End of all seams and stitchings, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of the continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch except on labels, where the overlap shall be not less than three (3) stitches. The ends of the hand felling shall be tacked with not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. The thread ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2-inch.

3.6 Construction.

3.6.1 Fusing. The belt interlining (see 3.2.2) shall be fused to the belt, 1/8-inch from sides.

3.6.2 Belt. The belt shall be folded in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitched along the entire length of belt 1/4-inch in from raw side edges. The seam shall be pressed open and flat and off-set to align pointed end of belt and stitch pointed end from side to side. The belt shall be turned out by completely working out pointed end and edges and the seam shall be on the underside of the belt. The belt shall be pressed flat and topstitched at 1/4-inch along lengthwise edges and pointed end. The straight end of the belt finished with overedge stitching. The finished width of the belt shall be 1-3/4 (+1/16, -1/8)-inches. The finished length of the belt for each coat size shall be as shown in Tables III and IV.

3.6.3 Buttonhole. The belt shall have a horizontal, eyelet end taper bar type buttonhole, cut 5/8-inch long, midway between upper and lower finished edges of the belt, with the front inside edge of the buttonhole 1/2 (±1/8)-inch from the over-edge stitched end and with the ends of buttonhole securely tacked. The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the belt and the ends of the buttonhole shall be securely tacked. The buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned.

3.6.4 Button. The belt shall have a turn back of 3-inches. The location of the button shall be marked on the underside of the belt and the placement for the center of the button for the buckle end of belt shall be 5-5/8 (±1/8)-inches from the overedged stitched end of the belt. The button shall be securely sewn, and the button shall properly engage buttonhole in buckle end of belt.

The buckle, when packaged with the belt, shall be secured by buttoning the end of the belt through the buckle.

3.6.5 Pressing. All pressing operations shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used. The belt shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions.

3.6.6 Cleaning. All basting threads shall be removed and all ends of stitching shall be trimmed and loose threads removed from the belt. All spots, stains, and shade or size markings shall be removed without damage to the material.

3.6.7 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component and end item conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations.

3.7 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The use of drill holes is prohibited. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise indicated.

3.8.1 Pattern version. PD20_023 dated 1 September 2020.

3.8.2 List of pattern parts. The components of the belt shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

3.9 Finished measurements. The belts shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Tables III and IV.

TABLE III. Belt finished measurements (Class 1) - inches. 1/

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts Basic material (see 3.2.1)

Belt, men’s Belt, women’s

PD20_023M-BELT

PD20_023W-BELT

Interlining (see 3.2.2)

Belt interlining, men’s Belt interlining, women’s

PD20_023M-BELT-INT

PD20_023W-BELT-INT

Belt Coat Size

Belt Length

30 34-1/8 31 35-3/8 32 36-5/8 33 37-3/4 34 38-3/4 35 39-7/8 36 41-1/8 37 42-1/4 38 43-3/8 39 44-1/2 40 45-5/8 41 46-7/8 42 48 43 49-1/4 44 50-3/8 45 51-5/8 46 52-7/8 47 54 48 55-1/8 49 56-3/8

TABLE III. Belt finished measurements (Class 1) - inches. 1/ - Continued

1/ With belt buttoned, measurement shall be taken from fold of fabric to pointed end.

TABLE IV. Belt finished measurements (Class 2) - inches. 1/

1/ With belt buttoned, measurement shall be taken from fold of fabric to pointed end.

3.10 Certification. The belts, when produced for the Army & Air Force Exchange Services (AAFES) or commercial sales, shall be certified by the Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center (see 5.5 and 7.8).

3.11 Toxicity. The finished material shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 5.4. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Belt Coat Size

Belt Length

50 57-1/2 51 58-3/4 52 59-7/8 54 62-3/8

Tolerance ±1/2

Belt Coat Size

Belt Length

4 35-5/8 6 36-3/4 8 37-7/8 10 39 12 40-1/2 14 42-3/8 16 44-3/8 18 46-1/2 20 48-5/8 22 50-7/8 24 53 26 55-1/4

Tolerance ±1/2

3.12 Workmanship. The belt shall conform to the quality of the product established by this document and the occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptance quality limits (AQLs) specified in the contract or purchase order.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. Unless otherwise specified the offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1 Product conformance. The belts provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract or purchase order. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract or purchase order.

5.2 End item inspection procedures. Sampling for inspection shall be conducted in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Zl.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (see 7.2.1).

5.2.1 Visual examination. The belts shall be examined for the defects listed in Table V. The lot size shall be expressed in units of belts. The sample unit shall be one (1) belt. The inspection level and AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet.

TABLE V. Visual defects.

Examine Defect

Material and workmanship

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar, dye streak, area of no dye penetration Any component part full, tight, omitted, improper, twisted or not cut as specified Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part Measurement of components not as specified, finished measurements not as specified Belt uneven in width by more than 1/8-inch Open or puckered seam, seams and stitching not as specified, needle chew, irregular stitching, any component part caught in unrelated stitching, any seam twisted or pleated, any stitching omitted or insecure, or a raw edge

TABLE V. Visual defects. - Continued

Examine Defect

Material and Workmanship

- Continued

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside Irregular stitching or stitching not as specified, or not specified stitches per inch Fusible omitted, any evidence of fusible bleed-through, bubbling, delamination or color change; fusible exposed Buttonhole with broken stitches, ragged edges, misplaced, omitted The pointed end of belt not properly forced out

Button Not specified type or size Misplaced, omitted, broken or defective Not attached as specified

Design Any characteristic not in accordance with the specified design (see 3.1) Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part Thread or button color not as specified

Pressing Pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable, five (5) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8-inch or less or not removed; odor affecting serviceability

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified; barcodes omitted, not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRl) omitted or illegible; barcode not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code attachment causes damage to the item

Packaging Any belt not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5.3 End item dimensional examination. The belts shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Tables III and IV. Measurements shall be taken using an appropriate calibrated measuring device. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of belts. The sample unit shall be one (1) belt. The inspection level, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

5.4 Toxicity test. When required (see 7.6), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of the studies indicate the belt is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 7.2.2). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.11) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required.

5.5 Certification. When the belts are purchased individually or in lots by AAFES or a commercial supplier, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

“This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD-20023 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)

5.5.1 Certification for belt and buckle. When the belt and buckle are purchased and packaged together for sale by AAFES or commercial supplier, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description. The certification label shall include the following information on the example below and may be stamped or printed on a sticker and attached to the bag or printed directly on the bag. The label information shall include an age code for quarter and year certifications were issued for each item and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

“This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD-20023 and GL-PD-19030 as specified by the Program Executive Office – Soldier and was produced under Certificate Nos. XXX-XXXXX-XXX and XXX-XXXXX-XXX from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.

XX QTR XXXX - Belt XX QTR XXXX - Buckle

5.6 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Packaging. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

7. NOTES

7.1 Sources of Government documents.

7.1.1 Copies of Government documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.

7.2 Sources of non-Government documents.

7.2.1 ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes is available online at https://asq.org.

7.2.2 INFORMA HEALTHCARE - Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor) are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.

7.3 Standard samples. For access to standard samples address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

7.4 Intended use. The belt is intended for wear with the Coat, Men’s, Belted with Bi-Swing (GL-PD-19016) and Coat, Women’s, Belted with Bi-Swing (GL-PD-19019) as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU). This belt is a replacement for the belt issued with the coat in case belt is misplaced or a new size is required.

7.5 Buckle. When the buckle is packaged with the belt, the buckle shall conform to

GL-PD-19030.

7.6 Ordering data. The contract or order should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Class required (see 2.1).

c. Labeling information (see 3.4).

d. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.11 and 5.4).

e. Regulatory requirements (see 4).

f. Product conformance provisions (see 5.1).

g. Acceptance criteria (see 5.6).

h. Packaging requirements (see 6.1).

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://asq.org/ https://www.crcpress.com/

7.7 Known sources.

7.7.1 Buttons. Heritage Green 564 - Shade M3722 from US Button/EMSIG Corp. has been found to meet this requirement. (US Button/EMSIG Corp., 328 Kennedy Drive, Putnam. CT 06260, email: www.usbutton.com. Telephone No. (860) 928-2707, X207).

7.7.2 Thread. Heritage Green 564 shade from American & Efird LLC has been found to meet this requirement. (American & Efird LLC, 22 American Street, P.O. Box 507, Mount Holly, NC, 28120. email: www.amefird.com, Telephone No. (704) 951-2713).

7.8 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program (UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

7.9 Subject term (keyword) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU) Coat, Men’s Coat, Women’s

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

http://www.usbutton.com/ http://www.amefird.com/

1/2 (±1/8)-inch

FIGURE 1. Belt, Coat, Men’s and Women’s

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army-GL Army-GL

5-5/8 (± 1/8)-inches

3-inches

1-3/4 (+1/16, -1/8)-inches

Any belt not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order