attachment 1 MIL-DTL-32157.pdf

MIL-DTL-32157

INCH POUND

19 JAN 2004

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

PARKA, ALL-PURPOSE ENVIRONMENTAL, CAMOUFLAGE

This specification is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers a waterproof, moisture-vapor-permeable parka and a detachable (optional) hood. The parka is a component of the All-Purpose Environmental Clothing System

(APECS).

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-COCT (Bldg 6), 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092 or emailed to Colleen.M.Robinson@dla.mil.

Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online database at www.dodssp.daps.mil

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; Distribution is unlimited.

mailto:Colleen.M.Robinson@dla.mil http://www.dodssp.daps.mil/

1.2 Classification. The parka will be in one type and four classes in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2).

Class 1 - Woodland MARPAT Camouflage Class 3 – Woodland Camouflage Class 2 - Desert MARPAT Camouflage Class 4 – Desert Camouflage

Size X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long Hood X-Small X X X X X Small X X X X X Medium X X X X X Large X X X X X X X-Large X X X X XX-Large X

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3,4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3,4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.1.1 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL

A-A-50083 - Bag, Plastic, Folded Garment A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven A-A-52110 - Cloth, Plain Weave, Polyester/Cotton A-A-55126 - Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester-Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-PRF-32142 - Cloth, Waterproof and Moisture Vapor Permeable MIL-C-43701 - Cord, Elastic, Nylon MIL-F-10884 - Fasteners, Snap MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-C-43701 - Cord, Elastic

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-T-3530 - Thread and Twine: Mildew Resistant Or Water

Repellent Treated MIL-DTL-32072 - Thread, Polyester

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-129 – Marking for Shipment and Storage

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assistdaps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

ASTM International

D 1974-1998 - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard D 2582 - Puncture Propagation Tear D 3776 - Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Woven Fabric D 3884 - Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging D 5034 - Breaking Strength of Textile Fabrics D 5118 - Practice for Fabrication of Fiberboard Shipping Boxes D 6193 - Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available from www.astm.org or American Society For Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC-8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC-15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC-16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC-22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC-61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC-96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Fabrics Except Wool AATCC-118 - Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test AATCC-119 - Resistance to Frosting AATCC-135 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and

Knit Fabrics Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

(Copies of these documents are available from http://www.aatcc.org or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE

ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4- SAMPLING PROCEDURES AND TABLES FOR INSPECTION OF

ATTRIBUTES

(For all inquires please contact the American National Standards Institute, 25 West 43rd Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036). Website address http://www.ansi.org

TECHNICAL ASSOCIATION OF THE PULP AND PAPER INDUSTRY (TAPPI)

(Applications for copies of referenced documents should be addressed to TAPPI Press, Technology Park/Atlanta, P.O. Box 105113, Atlanta, GA 30348-5113.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified, (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection, in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.2). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3.1 Disposal of rejected garments. Rejected garments shall be disposed in one of the following manners: 1) contact the USMC (through the Contracting Officer) to determine if there is an alternate use for rejected parkas; or 2) if the USMC does not identify any alternate uses, the contractor may sell the parkas on the secondary market. Rejected parkas shall be labeled or indelibly marked on label as “Seconds/Rejected by USMC” and the embroidered label “Made Expressively For USMC” shall be cut out of the parka.

3.3.2 Basic material. The basic material for the parka shall be a waterproof and moisture vapor permeable cloth conforming to MIL-PRF-32142. The color of the face side of the base cloth shall be Woodland MARPAT Camouflage, Class 1; Desert MARPAT Camouflage, Class 2; Woodland Camouflage, Class 3 or Desert Camouflage, Class 4 as required (see 6.2). The color of the back side http://www.ansi.org/ of the base cloth shall be Camouflage Green 483 for the Classes 1and 3 base cloth and Tan 492 for Classes 2 and 4 base cloth.

3.3.3 Upper pocket material. The upper chest pockets of the parka shall be made from cloth, plain weave, Black (Woodland MARPAT, Class 1 and Woodland Camouflage, Class 3) or Coyote 476 (Desert MARPAT, Class 2 and Desert Camouflage, Class 4), polyester/cotton conforming to A-A- 52110.

3.3.4 Reinforcement material. The reinforcement cloth used in the elbow patches shall be Woodland MARPAT Camouflage, Class 1; Woodland Camouflage, Class 3; Desert MARPAT Camouflage, Class 2 or Desert Camouflage, Class 4, as required (see 6.2), water repellent treated, resist fraying and conform to the following requirements when tested in accordance with 4.4.1.1.

Table I – Reinforcement Cloth Requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Weight 6.0 oz/sq. yd Max Breaking strength:

Warp Fill

200 lbs. (min) 155 lbs. (min)

Colorfastness to:

Crocking

Laundering

Light

Perspiration Alkaline/Acid

Dry and wet: 3.5 min. except for Black 477 & 357, 1.5 min. for Black

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale For

Color Change

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale For

Color Change

Woodland: Lt. Green 354 and Khaki 475 – Good.

Black 477 & 357, Coyote 476, Green 474, Dk. Green 355, and Brown 356 – Fair

Desert: Lt. Khaki 494, Lt. Coyote 481, Urban Tan 478, Highland 480, Lt. Brown 493 and Lt. Tan 479 & 492 – Good.

Spray rating:

Initial After 1 Laundering

100, 100, 90 min.

90, 90, 80 min.

Stiffness (cm) Warp - 11.0 max.

Filling - 11.0 max.

Puncture Propagation Tear Warp – 7.0 kgf min.

Filling – 6.0 kgf min.

Resistance to Organic liquid No wetting by N-Tetradecane

Resistance to Frosting Equal to or better than the standard sample

Dimensional Stability:

4.0% (max) 4.0% (max)

Abrasion Resistance

800 cycles (min)

Table II – Reinforcement Cloth Classes 1 & 3 Spectral reflectance requirements Reflectance Values (percent)

Black 477& Coyote 476, Khaki 475& Green 474, Wavelength, Black 357 Light Green 354 Dark Green 355 & Brown 356 Nanometers (nm) min max min max min max 600 - - 8 20 3 9 620 - - 8 20 3 9 640 - - 8 20 3 9 660 - - 8 20 3 12 680 - - 10 30 3 16 700 - 20 18 50 5 32 720 - 30 22 54 7 44 740 - 33 30 56 12 52 760 - 33 35 58 18 56 780 - 34 40 62 26 56 800 - 34 55 80 34 56 820 - 35 55 80 42 60 840 - 35 55 84 44 60 860 - 35 60 84 44 60

Table III – Reinforcement Cloth Classes 2 & 4 Spectral reflectance requirements Reflectance Values (percent)

Light Tan 479 & Lt Coyote 481, Highland 480 & Urban Tan 478 &

Wavelength, Light Tan 492 Light Brown 493 Light Khaki 494 Nanometers (nm) min max min max min max 700 38 53 19 36 25 48 720 38 58 20 36 25 52 740 39 62 20 36 25 54 760 40 66 21 36 26 56

Light Tan 479 & Lt Coyote 481, Highland 480 & Urban Tan 478 &

Wavelength, Light Tan 492 Light Brown 493 Light Khaki 494 Nanometers (nm) min max min max min max

780 41 72 21 38 27 57 800 43 76 22 43 28 58 820 45 76 23 45 30 58 840 48 78 24 46 33 58 860 50 78 25 46 36 59

3.3.5 Inside collar, parka hood tunnel, optional hood tunnel and lower inside pocket. The cloth for the inside collar, parka hood tunnel, optional hood tunnel, lower inside pocket, parka hood tunnel and optional hood tunnel shall be a three layer-knit laminate conforming to the following requirements when tested in accordance with paragraph 4.4.1.1.

Table IV – Knit laminate requirements

Weight, oz/sq. yd. 4.0 + 0.4 Stiffness, cm 8.0 Max.

Hydrostatic Resistance, psi Initial Taffeta Restraint After deet

220 Min 120 Min

Puncture Propagation Tear, kgf

3.5 Min

3.5 Min

Water permeability Initial After Synthetic Perspiration

No leakage No leakage

Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (g/sq. m/24 hours):

Procedure B - Initial Procedure BW - Initial

600 Min 5000 Min

Physical surface appearance after laundering No change after 20 launderings

3.3.6 Interlining. The interlining for the attached hood visor and optional hood visor shall be buckram cloth, natural or bleached, conforming to type I of A-A-50186, except that the minimum breaking strength in the warp direction shall be 60 lbs.

3.3.7 Seam sealing tape. The tape for covering and sealing all designated seams and stitching shall be cut in 1 + 1/16 inch wide strips from material that is compatible with the back side of the cloth specified in MIL-PRF-32142. As an alternate, 1-1/2 + 1/16 inch wide strips of tape as specified above may be used on the top and bottom of the sleeve pockets and sleeve flaps.

3.3.8 Hood draw cord and hanger tape. The hood draw cord and hanger tape shall be a flat l/2 inch wide nylon tape, Black or Camouflage Green 483 in color conforming to type III, class 2 of MIL-PRF- 5038. The cut lengths for the hood draw cord and hanger tapes are listed in the following table:

Table V - Cut Lengths for Hood Draw cords and Hanger Tapes (in inches)

Size Hood Draw cords Hanger Tape X-Small 33 Small 35 Medium 36 Large 36 X-Large 36 XX-Large 37 Tolerance + 1

4-1/2 + 1/4” for all sizes

3.3.9 Collar, waist and hem draw cord. The waist and hem draw cords shall be 3/16 inch in diameter multi-strand rubber elastic with braided nylon or polyester covering, Black conforming to type II of MIL-C-43701. The cut lengths for the waist draw cords are listed in the following table:

Table VI - Cut Lengths for Collar, Waist & Hem Draw cord (in inches)

Size Collar Waist Hem X-Small 30 41-1/2 48 Small 31 45-1/2 52 Medium 31 49-1/2 56 Large 32 53-1/2 60 X-Large 32 57-1/2 64 XX-Large 34 59-1/2 66 Tolerance + 1 + 1 + 1

3.3.10 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The nylon fastener tapes shall conform to type II, class 1 of A- A-55126. The color shall be Camouflage Green 483 for classes 1 and 3 and Tan 380 for classes 2 and

4. The widths and lengths are listed in the table below:

Table VII – Hook and Loop Tape Requirements

Length and Width Location

Quantity Hook Pile

Outer Collar 3 3 - 1” x 2” Insignia tab 1 1” x 1” Wrist tab 2 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”

Sleeve pocket flap 4 1-1/2” x 1” Sleeve pocket 4 1-1/2” x 1”

Lower pocket flap 4 1” x 2” Lower pocket 4 1” x 2”

Hood 3 3 - 1” x 2” Sleeve 2 1” x 6”

Parka (right front) 1 1” x 1” Tolerance + 1/4” + 1/4”

3.3.11 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners shall be black, in the lengths specified and conform to A-A-55634.

3.3.11.1 Front closure slide fastener. The front closure slide fastener shall be a Type III, style 8, size 8, continuous element polyester monofilament coil, equipped with a single long tab pull, automatic locking reverse bale slider with a hole large enough to accommodate a thong. The front closure slide fastener must meet 200 pounds minimum crosswise strength as specified in A-A-55634. The tape side of the fastener tape shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick and the tape side with a film laminate allowing seam sealing of the slide fastener to the garment. The slide fastener thong either be made from the basic material or a 3/8 inch width black webbing in accordance with paragraph 2.2.7 of A-A-55634.

Table VIII - Front Slide Fastener Lengths (in inches) Garment Size Length

X-Small-X-Short 26-1/2 X-Small-Short 27-1/2 X-Small-Regular 29 X-Small-Long 30-1/2

Small-X-Short 27 Small-Short 28 Small-Regular 29-1/2 Small-Long 31

Medium-X-Short 27-1/2 Medium-Short 28-1/2 Medium-Regular 30 Medium-Long 31-1/2

Large-X-Short 28 Large-Short 29 Large -Regular 30-1/2 Large -Long 32 Large-X-Long 33-1/2

X-Large-Short 29-1/2 X-Large -Regular 31 X-Large -Long 32-1/2 XX-Large-Long 33 Tolerance + 1/8

3.3.12.2 Underarm and upper pocket slide fasteners. The underarm and upper pocket slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, Type I, style 7, size 5, continuous element polyester monofilament coil equipped with a single reverse bale slider. The tape side of the fastener chain shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick. The minimum crosswise breaking strength must be 175 pounds. The underarm slide fastener length shall be 15 + 1/8 inches and be equipped with a non-locking, short tab pull slider. The upper pocket slide fastener length shall be 9 + 1/8 inches and be equipped with a short tab pull, automatic locking slider. The slide fastener thong either be made from the basic material or a 3/8 inch width black webbing in accordance with paragraph 2.2.7 of A-A- 55634. Sliders shall have a hole large enough to accommodate a 3/8 inch wide thong.

3.3.13 Barrel lock. The barrel lock for the collar, waist and hem draw cords shall be a black, toaster ellipse conforming to ITW NEXUS part # 350-2000 or equal.

3.3.14 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester, size B, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to type I, class 1, subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072. As an alternate, size 40, 2 or 3 ply polyester core thread conforming to A-A-50199 may be used. All thread shall be water-repellent treated as specified in MIL-T-3530. The thread color shall be Camouflage Green 483 (approximating color chip 34094 of FED-STD-595) for classes 1 and 3 and Khaki P-1 ( C.A. 66019 or approximating color chip 30277 of FED-STD-595) for classes 2 and 4.

3.3.15 Fastener, snap (for optional hood only). The stud and post part of the snap fastener shall be style 2, finish 2 male and female complete, consisting of stud and eyelet size 1 or 2 with button size 1 or 2, conforming to MIL-F-10884 with the exception that the socket shall conform to Scoville style #93XB-10224 – Easy Action or equal.. An uncapped button may be used in areas where the surface will be concealed by a layer of base cloth.

3.3.16 Labels. Each parka shall have a class 1 identification label, a class 2 size label, a class 3 instruction label, or a class 4 combination identification and size label conforming to the type VI requirements of MIL-DTL-32075. The label color shall be Medium Green, C.A. 70034, 70130, or 70131 for classes 1 and 3 and Khaki, Cable No. 70188 for classes 2 and 4.. The labels shall show fastness to laundering.

3.3.16.1 USMC label. All class 1 and class 2 parkas shall have a woven “Made Expressly for USMC” label. The USMC label shall have a black satin broadloom background with the USMC emblem woven in red, gold and grey threads in the center of the label. At the top of the label, the words “Made Expressly for” will be woven in gold. At the bottom of the label, below the emblem, the contractor’s name shall be in gold. The USMC label shall be cut single, fused edge with a finished size of 50 mm wide by 76 mm to 82 mm in height – Minnewawa Style number LR5398 or equal.

3.3.16.2 Identification label. The identification label shall read as follows:

"PARKA, ALL-PURPOSE ENVIRONMENTAL, CAMOUFLAGE"

3.3.16.2 Size label. The size label information shall be as follows:

X-Small X-Short Height: Up to 63 in.

Chest Mn: Up to 33 in.

Chest Wn: Up to 36 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest Mn: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest Mn: Up to 33 in.

X-Small Long Height: From 71 in. and up Chest Mn: Up to 33 in.

Small X-Short

Chest Mn: From 33 to 37 in.

Chest Wn: From 36 to 40 in.

Small Short

Chest Mn: From 33 to 37 in.

Small Regular

Chest Mn: From 33 to 37 in.

Small Long

Chest Mn: From 33 to 37 in.

Medium X-Short

Chest Mn: From 37 to 41 in.

Chest Wn: From 40 to 44 in.

Medium Short

Chest Mn: From 37 to 41 in.

Medium Regular

Chest Mn: From 37 to 41 in.

Medium Long

Chest Mn: From 37 to 41 in.

Large Short Height: Up to 67 in.

Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

Large Regular

Large Long

Large X-Long Height: Over 75 in.

X-Large Regular

Chest: From 45 in. and up

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Long Height: From 71 in. and up Chest: From 45 in. and up

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large-Long Height: From 71 in. and up Chest: Over 49 in.

3.3.16.3 Care label. The care label information shall be as follows:

PARKA, ALL-PURPOSE ENVIRONMENTAL, CAMOUFLAGE

WARNING!!

DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, DRY CLEAN OR PRESS THE APECS PARKA

A. Home laundering (machine/hand): Use a permanent press or normal cotton machine setting, or hand wash using a detergent. Rinse thoroughly in warm water.

NOTE: Any residual detergent on the parka will decrease the water repellency.

Home drying: Tumble dry on permanent press or cotton setting, remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, place on rust proof hanger.

B. Post Laundry: Parka shall be laundered utilizing “Formula II" of FM 42-414.

C. Field Laundry/Restoration of Water Repellent Finish: Parka shall be laundered utilizing "Formula XII" of FM 42-414.

Post/Field Drying: Tumble dry at low temperature setting. Remove immediately from dryer. Do not overheat or over dry. For Restoration of Water Repellent Finish, dry at a temperature not to exceed 150oF.

3.3.16.4 Label for optional hood. The optional hood shall have a combination identification/size label conforming to type IV, class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075. The information contained shall be as follows:

Size:

NSN:

HOOD, COLD WEATHER, CAMOUFLAGE

Contract No.

Fabric Content:

Contractor's Name:

SEE PARKA FOR WASHING INSTRUCTIONS

3.3.16.5 Label/tag. Each parka and optional hood shall be individually barcoded with a type VIII, class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075. The parka label/tag shall be attached to the slide fastener pull tab of the front closure and the optional hood label/tag shall be attached to the right side of the draw cord.

3.3.17 Non-wicking buffer. The non-wicking buffer shall be a polyurethane adhesive, 2 inches wide and a minimum of 4.5 ml thick.

3.4 Design. The parka has a collar with a draw cord for adjustment and a stowed hood, a water resistant slide fastener front closure, slide fastener underarm openings, two upper chest pockets with concealed water resistant slide fastener openings, two lower pockets with flaps and concealed hand warmer pockets, adjustable wrist tabs, an insignia tab, and waist and hem draw cord adjustments that are concealed inside the lower pockets. The parka is also designed to accommodate an optional detachable hood for use in extreme cold weather. The hood can be attached to the parka with hook and pile fastener tapes and is compatible with the fur ruff, a component of the ECWCS.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns, which provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all sealed seams and 3/8 inch for all other seams, will be furnished by the Government. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table IX.

TABLE IX - List of pattern parts Material Nomenclature Cut Parts

PARKA

Cloth, laminated

Upper back Lower back Upper front Lower front Pocket flap Lower outside pocket Insignia tab 1/ Hood Upper sleeve Lower sleeve Sleeve pocket Left Pencil pocket Sleeve pocket flap Sleeve tab Visor Outside collar Waist cord casing

Cloth, nylon Sleeve patch 2

Cloth, plain weave Chest pocket 4

Cloth, cotton, buckram Visor interlining Chest Pocket Welt

Cloth, three layer knit Inside collar 2/ Hood tunnel Throat tab

OPTIONAL HOOD

Cloth, laminated

Cloth, cotton buckram

Side crown Crown Hood tunnel 3/ Visor Hood flap Visor interlining

1/ Insignia tab may be cut in one piece with seam allowance along one side deducted.

2/ Cloth, laminated may be substituted.

3/ Cloth, 3-layer knit may be substituted.

3.6 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in Table II and herein.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM-D-6193.

The type of seam, stitching and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table X. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur. When two or more methods of seams or stitches are given for the same operation, any one may be used.

3.6.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn. All 301 stitch and bartack thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.6.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.6.1.2 Type 502, 503. 515 or 516 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.1. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length not less than 1/4 inch but more than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3 Bartacks. Unless otherwise specified, all bartacks shall be 5/8 + 1/32 inch long and 1/8 + 1/32 inch wide, and shall contain 21 to 28 stitches. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.6.1.4 Sewn eyelets. All eyelets shall be 3/16 inch in diameter with a minimum of 19 stitches per eyelet with purling on the outside.

3.6.1.5 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.6.2 Heat sealing. Seams and stitching as indicated in Table II shall be sealed with heat sealing tape on the inside of the parka, concealed hood and optional hood. The entire width of the seam tape shall be uniformly sealed over the seam or stitching. All seam tapes shall be applied without tension and shall be applied so that a minimum of 1/8 inch overlap is on both sides of the sewn seam and the back knit of the laminated fabric adjacent to the seam tape shall not be melted to expose the plastic film layer of the laminated fabric. All seam tapes shall overlap a minimum of 3/4 inch at joining points and all ends of seam tape or taped cross-over areas shall be spot sealed without additional repair tape in accordance with seam tape manufacturer temperature, time and pressure recommendations for application with cross-over heat sealing machine. As an alternate, spot sealing for taped ends can be eliminated if hot air machine can automatically cut and seal ends of seam tape without any loose ends.

However, spot sealing for taped cross-over areas shall remain. Sealed seams, cross-over area stitchings shall show no leakage, tape ends shall show no signs of lifting, and the tape, itself, shall show no sign of lifting, curling, bubbling or separation more than 1/8 inch of tape top knit shrinkage such that the tape middle layer is exposed when tested initially and after five laundering cycles as specified in 4.4.4.

3.6.3 Appearance after laundering. After five laundering cycles as specified in 4.4.4, the base fabric shall show colorfastness in the black printed areas of the MARPAT woodland and woodland camouflage patterns equal to or better than “3-4” rating on the AATCC Gray Scale for evaluating change in color and also shall show no significant change in physical surface appearance when compared to an unlaundered parka both in the base fabric and taped areas. Minor defects not affecting appearance, such as puckering on seam line or creases around taped area due to manufacturing operations are acceptable and shall be used for comparison to laundered sample.

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The parka, and optional hood shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished parka is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Any holding or basting stitch is permissible provided it is removed, does not show on the finished garment, and does not interfere with proper seam taping. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.7.1 Repairs. Repair of the parka and hoods by mending, patching or darning is not allowed, and at no time is removal of the heat sealing tape permitted. However, up to 25 inches of heat sealing tape may be used to repair leaking seams, missing yarns in the tricot knit, and to repair areas where the original tape does not overlap the sewn seams by a minimum of 1/8 inch on both sides of the inside of parka. Up to five repair areas totaling 25 inches in length will be allowed. No more than five inches of repair using more than two layers of seam sealing tape is permitted, with the exception of the backside area of the sleeve pocket.

3.8 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel manufacturing equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table II provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and that the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

TABLE X. MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

1.

Cutting and marking.

a. Cut the parka and optional hood in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, placement for pockets and welt, hook and pile fastener tapes, and marks for proper assembly. The directional lines indicate the warp direction, unless otherwise specified. The directional lines may vary from the warp direction by not more than 2-1/2 inches on both front and back. Measurements shall be taken from top and bottom of directional lines on pattern to selvage edge of the fabric and the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 2-1/2 inches. Cut all shell parts out of one piece of material except the flap facing, pocket divider, hood tunnels, visor and inside collar. As an alternate to the slide fastener thong, loops cut from the laminated cloth may be used.

b. Cut draw cords, elastic cords, hanger tape and fastener tape lengths in accordance with the tables in paragraphs 3.3.7, 3.3.8, 3.3.9 and 3.3.10.

NOTE: If not hot wire cut, as an alternate, draw cord ends may be dipped or impregnated with cellulose acetate or cellulose butyrate to eliminate fraying.

2. Replace damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that material, defects, and damages, as classified in 4.4.2 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

3. Marking.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts to insure a correct shade and size throughout the parka and optional hood. Drill holes shall not be used and markings shall not be visible on the outer shell of the parka and optional hood.

4. Assemble collar.

a. Place eyelet reinforcement piece, (1/2 inch wide by 1inch) on inside of outer collar, 1/4 inch below top raw edge at center of outer collar.

b. Make a 3/16 inch eyelet in center of outer collar top edge, 3/4 inch down from raw edge and centered on the reinforcement piece.

Whip or purl type

19 min

70/2 or

B B

c. Hem of bottom outer collar by turning up the bottom edge 1/4 inch and stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1

10-13

d. Position three strips of loop (two horizontal and one in a vertical position) fastener tape on the tricot side of the collar in accordance with marks on pattern and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

301 LSbj-1 10-13

e. Position inside collar, face to face on outside collar and stitch together along upper edge. Turn and top stitch 1/16-1/8 inch from edge.

SSe-2

f. Insert draw cord with barrel lock attached through the or eyelet and stitch ends to front ends of inside collar.

301 SSa-1

10 -13 B B

g. Topstitch collar together with a second row of stitching 1/2 inch from first row of stitching. Note: Do not catch drawcord in

SSe-2(b)

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

5. Assemble throat flap.

a. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch 1/4 inch from edges of flaps.

SSe-2(a)

b. Turn, work out corners or curves and edges. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from turned

301 SSe-2(b) 10-13 B B

6. Assemble insignia tab.

a. Center hook fastener tape at point of tab per marks on pattern and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

LSbj-1

b. Crease sides and point of the one piece tab. With face of the creased edges aligned, stitch around tab 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-1 10-13 B B

- or –

d. Position tab pieces face to face with edges aligned and stitch around sides and points 1/4 inch from edge.

SSe-(a) 10-13 B B

e. Turn tab, work out corners and edges.

Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edges.

301 SSe-(b)

10-13 B B

7. Assemble sleeve wrist tabs.

a. Position hook fastener tape on face of tab in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

10 -13

b. Fold tab in half, face side out, and crease side raw edges. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edges.

- or -

EFn-2

c. Fold tab in half, face sides together, and stitch.

10 –13

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

7.

cont’d Assemble sleeve wrist tabs. Cont’d.

d. Turn face side out, work out corners and edges. Stitch 1/4 inch from edges.

SSe-2(b)

8. Assemble sleeve pocket flaps.

a. Position two pile fastener tapes on face of flap in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch around all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

b. Fold flap in half, (face sides together) and with edges aligned, stitch ends of flap.

SSe-2(a) 10-13

c. Turn flap, work out corners and edges.

Stitch1/4 inch from edge along sides and bottom of flap.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-13 B B

9. Assemble sleeve pockets and left sleeve pocket divider.

a. Fold under top raw edge of left sleeve pocket divider 3/8 inch. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

b. Fold under top raw edge of sleeve pocket 1/2 inch. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded

EFa-1 10-13 B B

c. Position two hook fastener tapes on face of sleeve pocket in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

d. Form bellows by folding sides of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern and stitch l/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

10-13 B B

10. Assemble lower pocket flaps.

a. Position two pile fastener tapes on face of flap in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

10.

cont’d.

Assemble lower pocket flaps. Cont’d.

b. Fold flap in half, with face sides together and edges aligned, stitch ends.

c. Turn flap, work out corners and edges.

Stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge around sides and bottom.

SSe-2(b) 10-13 B B

11. Assemble lower outside pockets.

a. Turn under top edge of lower pockets 1/2 inch and stitch 1/4 to 3/8 inch from folded

b. Position two strips of hook fastener tape on face of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

LSbj-1 10-13 B B

c. Position lower inside pocket on outside pocket, with face sides together and notches aligned, stitch to the back side of pocket 1/4 inch from edge. Turn outside pocket face side out and 1/8 inch from turned edge.

SSe-2 10-13 B B

12. Assemble hood.

a. Position hood pieces face to face, align edges and stitch 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-1

b. With joining seam facing either side, place seaming tape over seam and heat seal.

c. Position three strips of hook fastener tape in accordance with marks on pattern on outside bottom of hood. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges. (The middle hook tape shall be centered over the hood joining seam).

d. Place heat seaming tape over fastener tape stitching and heat seal.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

12.

Cont’d Assemble hood (cont’d)

e. Position interlining on inside of visor piece. Stitch to straight edge of visor 1/8 (+1/16) inch from edge..

f. Turn under ends of hood tunnel 3/8 inch and stitch 1/4 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1 10-13 B B

g. Center draw cord on hood tunnel. Fold hood tunnel over draw cord and stitch edges together 3/16 to 1/8 inch from raw edge. At center of tunnel, vertically tack tunnel and draw cord.

h. Position visor (face to face) on hood and stitch 1/4 inch from edge. Turn and force out curved edges and stitch 1/8 inch from turned edge of visor.

SSe-2

i. Position hood tunnel to face side of hood at the front notch and stitch 1/4 inch from the raw edge up to the visor junction, continue stitching across the straight edge of visor, and along remaining raw edge of hood to opposite front notch.

301 SSa-1 10-13 B B

j. Turn hood tunnel to inside of hood and stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge until it overlaps the visor edge stitching. Repeat operation on opposite side of hood.

301 EFa-1 And

SSe-2(b)

10 -13 B B

k. Place heat seaming tape over the hood tunnel stitching and heat seal.

l. Set barrel locks on ends of draw cord.

Extend draw cord beyond barrel locks and knot cord 1 inch from edge.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

13. Assemble inside upper pocket.

a. Position size label and instruction label or combination label on right (as worn) upper pocket, 3-1/4 + 1/8 inch from pocket top for all sizes and for sizes X-Small and Small 1 + 1/8 inch, for sizes Medium – X-Large 2-1/2 + 1/8 inches from straight raw edge (side finishing nearest the slide fastener). Position USMC woven label either adjacent to or below the label(s) used. Stitch labels to upper pocket, 1/8 inch from edges.

b. Overedge front edge of inside upper pocket to the center front pocket extension.

502, 503 505 or

Efd-1

7 - 9

70/2 70/2

c. Position slide fastener tapes even with edges of center front pocket extension and stitch.

SSa-1 10-13 B B

d. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch around curved pocket edges 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-2

e. Attach two 2-inch reinforcement tape tabs to the edge of pocket. One tape shall be positioned at the top curved edge of the pocket and the other approximately 4 + 1/4 inches lower on the back edge of the pocket.

Center a 1 inch line tack through reinforcement tape and pocket (on the safety stitching).

14. Assemble sleeves.

a. Position elbow patches, in accordance with marks on pattern, face side up on face of upper sleeves. Fold under front side, diagonal, and top edges 1/4 inch and stitch to sleeve 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

LSd-1

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

14.

Cont’d Assemble sleeves. (cont’d)

b. Position lower sleeve (face to face) on upper sleeve. Stitch sleeve together catching bottom edge of elbow patch.

LSq-2(a)

c. Turn down lower sleeve and with seam allowance facing up, stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned under edge of upper sleeve.

LSq-2(b)

d. Position a strip of pile fastener tape on lower sleeve as indicated by marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge with 1/2 inch overlap

LSbj-1 10 -13 B B

e. Position sleeve tab on sleeve in accordance with notches and in alignment with pile fastener tape. Stitch tab to sleeve 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10 -13 B B

f. Position pencil pocket, in accordance with marks on pattern, onto left sleeve with back side on face side of sleeve. Turn under left raw edge only 1/4 inch and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 from edge to bottom notch.

g. Place left sleeve pocket on left sleeve and align right raw edges of pocket and pencil pocket. Stitch raw edge of pockets together along right edge and across bottom.

h. Position right pocket, according to marks on pattern, face side up and turn under pocket edges 1/4 inch and top stitch to sleeve 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edges. Finished pockets are to be centered above elbow patches.

SSb-1 10 -13 B B

i. Position sleeve pocket flap on sleeve in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch to sleeve. Fold sleeve pocket flap down and topstitch 1/4 ± 1/16 inch from fold, burying raw edge.

LSbk-2 Or

LSbl-2

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

14.

Cont’d Assemble sleeves. (cont’d)

j. Lay heat seaming tape on inside of sleeve, covering all stitching and heat seal.

15. Assemble fronts – attach pockets and flaps.

a. Position outside lower pocket assembly, face up, on lower front. Align pocket with bottom raw edges of front and raw edge of waist seam. Stitch around pocket at waist seam, front and bottom, 1/8 inch from edge.

b. Close back of pocket and form hand opening by stitching back edge of pocket to front starting at the waist seam, coming down 1/2 to 3/4 inch below top edge of pocket and backtack, leave a 7 1/2 + 1/4 inch opening, backtack and continue stitching to bottom of front. Bartack or linetack top and bottom of hand opening with a horizontal 3/8 inch tack.

Brtck

SSa-1 10 -13

28/brtk

10-13 per linetack

c. Stitch lower pocket flaps to upper front in alignment with upper pocket opening stitch line. Flaps shall be positioned to finish even with the back edge of pocket.

d. Lay heat seaming tape over the stitching attaching the back end of pocket to lower front.

16. Assemble parka.

a. With face sides together stitch lower fronts to lower back at side seams.

b. Make a 3/16 inch eyelet at each end of waist drawcord casing in accordance with marks on pattern. Center of eyelet shall finish 1 + 1/8 inch from finished end of casing. Thread elastic cord through eyelets and barrel locks and tie with knot.

Whip or purl type

19 min

70/2

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

16.

Cont’d Assemble parka shell. (cont’d)

c. Position waist draw cord casing on lower front in accordance with marks on pattern.

Turn under ends and lower edge. Stitch 1/8 inch from folded edges.

SSb-1

d. With face sides together and edges aligned, position sleeves on parka (right and left respectively) and stitch.

e. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch upper parka side seams to underarm opening notch on upper sleeve and back tack. Continue seaming from lower sleeve notch to bottom of sleeve, catching sleeve tab in stitching.

f. With face sides together position upper parka on lower parka. Align front edges, match side seams and stitch parka together catching upper edge of waist draw cord in stitching. Do not catch waist drawcord in

g. Lay the heat seaming tape on the inside of parka over side seams, waist seam, sleeve attachment seams and heat seal.

h. Position collar on parka and with face sides together and front edges aligned, stitch collar (inner and outer) to parka as far as first notch. Insert hood and continue stitching inner collar and hood to the opposite front notch. Continue stitching collar (inner and outer) to parka.

17. Set underarm slide fastener.

a. At each end of slide fastener, clip shell under arm seam at an angle to allow a 3/4 inch opening width.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

17.

cont’d Set underarm slide fastener.

b. Position slide fastener face down on underarm seam outlet between notches and with back edge of fastener tape even with raw edge of outlet. Stitch 1/4 + 1/16 inch from back edge of tape. Tack top and bottom of the angle clipping (tongue notch) to end of slide fastener tape.

c. Turn under slide fastener to finished position and topstitch underarm seam thru all plies 3/8 + 1/16 inch from folded edge. The slide fastener pull shall finish toward bottom of sleeve.

SSe-1

d. Lay heat seaming tape over top, sides and bottom of slide fastener stitching, sleeve seams and heat seal.

18. Attach front slide fastener.

a. Position back edge of slide fastener tape even with left (as worn) front edge of parka and align with top of collar, top of throat tab and front edge. Fold under top end of slide fastener tape between tab and parka. Stitch to parka front 1/4 inch from front edge catching tab and lower pocket in the stitching.. Match opposite slide fastener tape with right front (as worn) at bottom and repeat operation.

b. Stitch upper inner pocket with slide fastener tape with a 3/8 inch seam starting at the notch and backstitch ends of seam.

Repeat operation for opposite side.

301 SSa-1

c. From the inside, seam seal stitching of slide fastener and collar.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

19. Apply non-wicking buffer inside of fronts, back, sleeves and over seams.

a. Attach (heat seal) a 2 inch wide non-wicking buffer tape 1-3/4 + 1/4 inches from the bottom raw edge of parka, no less than 1/2 inch from front edges.

b. Attach (heat seal) a 2 inch wide non-wicking buffer tape 1-3/4 + 1/4 inches from the bottom raw edge of sleeves, no less than 1/2 inch from side seams.

20. Hem sleeves.

Turn under edge of sleeve 1/4 to 3/8 inch, fold up hem 1/2 ± 1/8 inch and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edge. The hem shall finish 3/8 to 5/8 inch wide.

EFb-1

21. Hem bottom of parka.

Turn under bottom edge of parka 1/4 inch, fold hem up 3/4 + 1/8 inch covering draw cord and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. The hem shall finish 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide. Thread drawcord thru barrel locks with knot.

EFb-1

22. Attach insignia tab.

a. Position the top edge of the insignia tab on left front, 2-3/4 inches below collar joining seam, with point towards waist, and stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge.

b. Position raw edge of insignia tab on left front, 2-3/4 inches below collar joining seam with point towards collar and stitch 1/4 inch from raw edge. Turn tab down and stitch 1/8-1/4 inch from fold, tacking ends.

301 LSbk-2(a & b)

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

23. Heat seal reinforcement tape.

Heat seal all reinforcement tapes positioned on the inside of upper and lower pocket lining to the parka.

24. Attach thong to slide fastener.

a. Insert a material supplier thong into the front slide fastener slider.

b. Fold braid in half lengthwise, insert loop into end of pull, pass the free ends through loop and pull tight. Knot free ends together with an overhand knot. Thong shall finish 6 + 1/4 inches.

c. As an alternate make stripping for the thong using base fabric, camouflage side up, by folding stripping with the edges abutted at center and stitch with each row of stitching not less than 1/16 inch from edge and covering stitch on the underside. The finished stripping shall measure 5/16 to 3/8 inch wide. Attach stripping to slide fastener, same as above (operation 30.a). Knot or bartack free ends of stripping.

EFh-1

10 –13

28/brtck

25. Assemble detachable (optional) hood.

a. Fold bottom edge 1/4 inch from front crown to the dart cut out and topstitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

b. Fold edges of cut out on side crown and stitch dart with 1/4 inch seam, extending the stitching 1/2 inch past end of cut out.

c. With face sides together position side pieces to center piece with edges aligned and stitch 1/4 inch from edge.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

25.

Cont’d Assemble detachable (optional) hood (cont’d)

d. Turn dart and joining seams toward center piece, lay heat seaming tape over seams and heat seal, extending seaming tape 1/2 inch past stitching of darts.

e. Hem the side edge of the crown, and side edge of the dart, and the bottom edge from dart to dart by folding the raw edges 1/4 inch and topstitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch.

f. Position three 1 inch wide and 2 inches (+ 1/4 inch) long pile fastener tape on the inside bottom hem as indicated on pattern and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

g. Position three 1 inch wide and 2 inch (+ 1/4 inch) long hook fastener tape to the face side at bottom super imposed over the pile fastener tape and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

h. Position two 1 inch wide and 1-1/4 + 1/4 inch long hook fastener tape to the inside edge opening as indicated on pattern and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from

i. Position two 1 inch wide and 2 + 1/4 inch long pile fastener tape to the face side of the right front opening as indicated on pattern and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from

j. Position interlining to inside of visor piece and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch at the straight edge of visor.

k. Hem ends of hood tunnel by folding the inside edge over the face side 1/2 inch and stitch 1/4 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1 10 -13 B B

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

25.

Cont’d Assemble detachable (optional) hood.

(cont’d)

l. Fold hood tunnel at center and stitch the raw edges together 3/16 to 1/8 inch from raw

EFu-1

m. Position the visor piece (face to face) on the hood and stitch 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Turn visor right side out.

n. Position hood tunnel to face side of hood at the front notch and stitch 1/4 from the raw edge up to the visor junction, continue stitching on the straight edge of visor, and continue to stitch the tunnel to the front notch.

o. Fold the front raw edge of the hood 1/4 inch to the inside and edge stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge, continue 1/8 inch edge stitching at tunnel joining seam up to the visor joining seam, back-tack and continue stitching at the top edge of the visor 1/4 inch from the edge. Continue stitching 1/4 inch from edge and repeat operation on other side.

301 EFa-1

LSq-2(b)

p. Place heat seaming tape over the front edge and tunnel stitching (over the entire hood opening) and heat seal.

q. Set barrel locks to both ends of drawcord, length appropriate to size. Extend drawcord 2 to 2-1/2 inches beyond barrel locks and tack drawcord ends to the hood and pile fastener tape stitching.

SSv-1

26. Assemble hood flap.

a. Fold hood flap, face side together, and stitch both ends.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

26.

Cont’d Assemble hood flap. (cont’d)

b. Turn ends right side out and top stitch along folded and stitched edges 1/16 inch from edge.

and

OSf-1

c. Position eight strips of 1 inch wide pile fastener tape (length as indicated on pattern + 1/8 inch) to flaps as indicated on pattern, and stitch through both layers of flap 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge on all four sides.

d. Set nine snap caps to flap as indicated on pattern.

27. Set…