Atch_8_Termite_Treatment_Report.pdf

SCOTT AIR FORCE BASE

TERMITE DAMAGE / STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY ASSESSMENT

BUILDING 861

PROPOSED SOLUTION REPORT

(VDYD 18-1001)

Project Number: 170021-0004

Kuhlmann design Group, Inc.

15 East Washington Belleville, Illinois 62220 t: 618.233.8898 f: 618.234.8959 kdginc.com

February 23, 2018

Prepared For:

375th Civil Engineering Squadron Scott Air Force Base, Illinois

TERMITE DAMAGE / STRUTURAL INTEGRITY ASSESSMENT B861

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OVERVIEW

Kuhlmann design Group, Inc. has been retained by the SAFB 375th Civil Engineering Squadron to perform an assessment of the termite damage, evaluate the structural integrity, and propose solutions to remedy the damage and the potential repair costs for building 861. The area of the building is approximately 42,200 square feet.

Building 861 is located on South Drive on Scott Air Force Base and currently serves as the offices and support areas for the 3rd Manpower Requirements Squadron, the 375th SFS Weapons and Tactics, and the 835th Cyber Ops Squadron.

The Building 861 structure is of post and beam style framing that supports heavy timber trusses with a shingle roofing covering a plywood roof deck. Wood framed walls infill between this post and beam framing and comprises the remainder of the exterior building structure. The bottom of the roof trusses are clad with gypsum board with the attic area protected by a dry suppression system. The exterior walls are clad with a thin brick veneer and a vertical prefinished metal sided mansard with prefinished metal gutters and downspouts. Exterior doors are hollow metal or aluminum storefront system with aluminum double hung windows with single pane glass. Floor construction is concrete slab on grade.

The interior spaces are configured using a mix of wood and metal stud framed partitions covered with gypsum board – painted finished with. Flooring materials include carpet tiles, vinyl composition tile, and ceramic tile in restrooms. Ceilings are suspended acoustical tile. Doors are a mix of wood and hollow metal.

The building contains several secure areas which limited access (no photographs) for the investigation.

APPLICABLE CODES AND STANDARDS:

UFC 1-200-01, General Building Requirements (20 June 2016) UFC 3-301-01, Structural Engineering 2015 International Building Code 2015 International Mechanical Code 2015 International Plumbing Code 2014 National Electrical Code Americans with Disabilities Act Accessibility Guidelines for Buildings and Facilities

(ADAAG)

NFPA

End of Document

TERMITE DAMAGE / STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY ASSESSMENT B861

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On Tuesday, January 23, 2018, representatives of Kuhlmann design Group, Inc.

performed a site visit to Building 861 located on Scott Air Force Base with the intent to observe the structural framing and architectural composition of the building structure, assess known instances of existing termite and water damage, evaluate the structural integrity of the building as a result of this damage, and report the findings of this investigation and propose solutions to correct the damage. This Proposed Solution Report and Probable Cost summarize the corrections necessary to rebuild the structural integrity of the building based upon the existing construction and the scope of damage resulting from termite activity and other causes.

In order to perform the necessary repairs / replacement of the existing building structure, the exterior walls will require major demolition. Any existing light fixtures, ceiling tile pads, HVAC devices, fan coil units (FCUs), electrical / COMM equipment, office cubicles and furniture will be removed as required, stored during the repairs and re-installed in their original locations. An assessment of the condition of the above mentioned items was not part of this task. The use of conex boxes / trailers is recommended for short term storage.

Prior to any repair work, a termite control plan should be implemented for the building.

The program should include an inspection, treatment and follow up inspections by an exterminator to determine termite activity has stopped and is under control. Due to the extent of the termite damage in the building, the entire footprint of the building should be treated to halt current termite activity, and ensure that future activity is prevented so as to protect the repaired building framing.

BUILDING STRUCTURE

The area of Building 861 is approximately 42,200 square feet, and is comprised of a central building running from east to west on plan, as well as four pairs of “wings” that run plan north and south from this central building. These five areas are reflected in Appendix A Figure 1, which illustrates the overall floor plan of Building 861.

The building structure is a traditional post and beam framing system that utilizes heavy timber truss fabrications supported on timber columns to support roof loads and transfer these loads into the foundation. Wood framed walls infill between this post and beam framing and comprises the remainder building structure. The bottom of the roof trusses are clad with gypsum board with the attic protected by a dry suppression system.

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The framed walls rest on a 3x6 plate atop a continuous 6” concrete curb. The floor structure is constructed of a concrete slab on grade system, of thickness and reinforcing unknown due to the lack of original building drawings.

Overall these five principal areas comprise the entirety of Building 861, and were observed for past and present termite and water damage during the course of the site investigation. The findings are as follows.

PROPOSED SOLUTIONS

Based on the findings of the site investigation and the damage outlined in the Post Investigation Analysis Report, water penetration and termite damage is prevalent throughout the exterior walls of the building. The exterior facade of the building will require replacement to stop the water penetration into the exterior walls. The removal of the exterior façade will also allow for a more detailed inspection of the wall framing for termite damage/activity. A summary of the repairs required in each area is as follows.

Exterior Façade Repairs Remove the existing faux brick, sheathing, batt insulation, all damaged sill plates and wood stud wall framing on all exterior walls. Removal of the existing windows or doors will be determined by the extent of damage to the window or door opening framing. The existing fan coil units may require removal if they block access to damaged wall framing.

Install new 3x6 pressure treated sill plates and new 2x6 framing at 24 o.c. in the place of damaged framing. Damaged window opening shall be reframed (See Appendix B).

Damaged door openings shall be reframed (See Appendix B). Provide new R19 kraft faced batt insulation in between the studs. The exterior finish will consist of the following: 5/8” glass matt gypsum board sheathing with a weather-resistive barrier (WRB) wrap covered buy a drainage mat. A polyurethane faux brick panel is applied using screws and adhesive. See Appendix C for more information on the faux brick panel and its installation. Sealant shall be applied around the perimeter of window / door frames and sills.

The condensate line for the FCUs shall be reworked to extend out of the exterior wall finish and turn down to a french drain (See Appendix E Figure 3). Provide new louvers for the fresh air intake for the FCUs.

The existing sheet metal guttering shall have the joints reworked to eliminate leaking.

Gutters should be lapped to match direction water flow and be sealed. Downspouts should be replaced to ensure against leaking. The existing splash blocks shall be reset to ensure water drains away from building and provide splash blocks at downspouts without one.

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All wood chips used in landscaping beds shall be removed and replaced with a decorative landscape rock. If the existing grade is within 8” of the faux brick finish it shall be reworked to provide the 8” clearance.

Interior Repairs When exterior wall framing requires replacement the interior gypsum board will need to be replaced with a mold / moisture gypsum board and the existing ceiling grid and tiles will be need to be reworked.

Once framing repairs have been performed, existing MEP systems and finishes shall be reinstalled to their original locations, with new components (conduit, pipe, seals, etc.)

utilized as necessary based on any discovered deterioration or damage resulting from the demolition process.

Prior to any repair work, a termite control plan should be implemented for the building.

The program should include an inspection, treatment and follow up inspections by an exterminator to determine termite activity has not impacted this area and is under control. The entire footprint of the building should be treated to halt current termite activity, and ensure that future activity is prevented so as to protect the repaired building framing.

CONCLUSIONS

On Tuesday, January 27, 2017, representatives of Kuhlmann design Group, Inc.

performed a site visit to Building 861 located on Scott Air Force Base with the intent to observe the structural framing and architectural composition of the building structure, assess known instances of existing termite and water damage, evaluate the structural integrity of the building as a result of this damage, and report the findings of this investigation. The Post Investigation Analysis Report summarized the observations and assessments made during the site visit.

This Proposed Solutions Report summarizes the repairs necessary to correct the damage caused by termites and water intrusion. In addition this report outlines the challenges in implementing the necessary repairs, with special consideration given to second and third order effects necessitated by the repairs.

Based on the findings of the site investigation and the damage outlined in the Post Investigation Analysis Report, water penetration and termite damage is prevalent throughout the exterior walls of the building. The exterior facade of the building should be rebuilt with a finish system that will prohibit moisture from entering the building. The gutters and downspouts should be reworked / replaced to stop water from washing the

4 0097-001 base of the exterior finish. Landscaping should be upgraded to eliminate termite attraction and grading reworked to keep termites and water from entering the building.

Prior to any repair work, a termite control plan should be implemented for the building.

The program should include an inspection, treatment and follow up inspections by an exterminator to determine termite activity has stopped and is under control. The treatment will ensure that future activity is prevented so as to protect the repaired building framing.

Without proper treatment and or repair, this termite activity appears likely to continue when conditions are favorable for termite activity (warmer temperatures and higher moisture levels in the spring and summer seasons). Continued activity will cause further degradation of the exterior wall structure.

End of Document

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TERMITE DAMAGE / STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY ASSESSMENT B861

375TH CIVIL ENGINEERING SQUADRON

SAFB * TERMITE DAMAGE B861

861 SOUTH DRIVE

SCOTT AIR FORCE BASE, ILLINOIS 62225

VDYD 18-1001

KdG Project No. 170021-0004

February 23, 2018

TABLE OF CONTENTS

OVERVIEW

POST INVESTIGATION ANALYSIS REPORT

PROPOSED SOLUTION REPORT

PROBABLE COST

APPENDIX

A. Figure 1 Access Locations Plan

B. Figure 2 Door / Window Framing

C. Photographs

D. Faux Brick Panels

E. Figure 3 French Drain

APPENDIX A

Figure 1

APPENDIX B

Figure 2

APPENDIX C

Photographs

APPENDIX D

Faux Brick Panel

APPENDIX E

Figure 3

Appendix C: Photographs, Building 861

Access Point 1:

Access Point 5:

Access Point 5:

Access Point 6:

Access Point 7:

Access Point 8:

Access Point 9:

Access Point 10:

Access Point 11:

Access Point 15:

Access Point 16:

Access Point 17:

Access Point 18:

Access Point 19:

Access Point 22:

Access Point 23:

Access Point 24:

Access Point 25:

Access Point 26:

Access Point 30:

Access Point 31:

BUILDING 861

Faux Stone Panels Brick Series

Thickness: 3/4” Height: 48”

Width (Overall)

48 1/4“

96”

88”Width (Inside)

DP2400 Used Brick Panel

PRODUCT

Replications Unlimited • 9200 Latty Avenue • Hazelwood, MO 63042 P: 314-524-2040 • F: 314-524-4040 • w w w. u r e s t o n e p a n e l s . c o m tdsBRICK201507

DP2912

Weight: 24 lbs • Area: 31 sq ft

U se d Br ic k

48”

46 3/8”

Width 38 1/4”

DP2600

Thickness: 3/4” Height: 48”

DP2912 Used Brick 4x4 Weight: 15 lbs • Area: 16 sq ft

Thickness: 3/4” Height: 24”

DP2600 Used Brick 2x4 Weight: 6 lbs • Area: 7 sq ft

Width (Overall)

Outside

39”

87”

95 1/2”

Thickness: 1 3/8” Height: 39”

DP2470 St. Louis Brick Panel

PRODUCT

Weight: 25 lbs • Area: 28 sq ft

St .L ou is

B ric k

Thickness: 1 3/8” Height: 39” Outside Width: 12 1/2”

DP2471 St. Louis Brick Corner Weight: 8 lbs • Area: 7 sq ft

Width (Inside)

Width (Overall)

Width (Inside)

12 1/2”

DIMENSIONAL DATA

Replications Unlimited • 9200 Latty Avenue Hazelwood, MO 63042 P: 314-524-2040 • F: 314-524-4040 w w w. u r e s t o n e p a n e l s . c o m

Width (Overall)

Width (Inside)

43 1/2”

Te xt ur ed

B ric k

Weight: 36 lbs • Area: 31 sq ft

Thickness: 1” Height: 24 5/8”

DP2630 Textured Brick Panel

PRODUCT

Weight: 36 lbs • Area:7 sq ft

44 1/4“

87” Width (Inside)

Width (Overall) 93 ”

44”

Width (Inside) 37 3/8”

DP2600

Cl ea n Br ic k

Thickness: 1 1/4” Height: 44 1/4”

DP2602 Clean Brick Panel

PRODUCT

Weight: 36 lbs • Area: 31 sq ft

Thickness: 1 1/4” Height: 48”

DP2605 Clean Brick 2x4 Weight: 9 lbs • Area: 7 sq ft

Thickness: 1 1/4” Height: 46 3/8”

DP2404 Clean Brick Keyless Corner Weight: 4 lbs • Area: 3 sq ft

46 3/8“

24 7/8”

46 3/8”

36 5/8”

Close-up

24 5/8”

Close-up

T1643

DP2404

T1642 Clean Soldier Brick Trim Depth: 1 1/4” Weight: 4 lbs • Area: 3 sq ft

Width: 48” • Height: 8” T1643 Clean Row Brick Trim

Depth: 4” Weight: 4 lbs • Area: 3 sq ft Width: 46 3/8” • Height: 8”

48” T1642

All panels are available in a variety of colors, please visit website to view options kjg Arrow kjg Line kjg Line kjg Line kjg Line

Always review your local building codes for specific preparation of the substrate wall prior to applying URESTONE. Should you have any questions about or on the preparation, please contact your local building code office. The Manufacturer has provided these suggested instructions as an installation guideline. The manufacturer does not offer any installation services other than these guidelines, nor has any control over the installation of URESTONE panels. It is the responsibility of the general contractor and/or the installer to ensure that the URESTONE products are installed in accordance with these instructions and any applicable building codes.

Our products install very easily and only require typical wood working and simple construction tools such as the following:

Key Tools:

• Circular saw (cordless or corded) – with fine plywood blade – this is best tool for cutting straight line cuts.

• Jigsaw – with fine tooth blade – this is a good versatile tool for trimming, cut outs, straight cuts (does not cut as straight typi-cally as a circular saw.

• Oscillating cutting tool – very versatile tool that is typically is better than a jigsaw for trimming and cutouts and quick adjust-ments.

•Cordless drill / screw gun

Other Tools

•A level to ensure your first row is level.

• A small rubber mallet – optional.

•A caulk gun.

•Small paint brush

Making Straight Cuts In instances where access to a table saw is not available, a guide fence is recommended when straight and precise cuts are re-quired . This is especially important for areas that have tight fits and when mitering inside and outside corners.

• Anytime that power tools are used for cutting panels be sure and wear safety eye gear, ear plugs, and a dust mask.

DETAILED INSTALLATION GUIDE

The first step is to determine the amount of product(s) that you will need to complete your project.

First determine the vertical wall space (square footage) that will be required to properly cover the area of your choice.

*NOTE: To properly measure, use a tape measure and determine the width (lineal length) and height of the area (Multiply the width by the height). Inquire to the exact square foot cover-age of the particular product that you’re buying and divide the square foot measurement by the square foot of coverage of the product. Also, should you have any windows or doors, along the wall area, measure using the same formula as above, and simply subtract that area from the overall measurement. Since the Urestone is a larger panel, it is recommended that you error on the high side of what you might need to insure that you do not run out of material and have to order additional panels that will be a different “color lot”.

1.1 Estimating The Required Materials

It is important to store the URESTONE faux panels flat on a sur-face in order to avoid distorting. If panels are stored in an upright position and do bow or distort , lay them flat (in the sun or warm area) and they will self‐correct.

Panels are manufactured using polyurethane foam; therefore, these panels must be handled properly to ensure the best results.

Upon receiving the shipment, allow the panels to acclimate to the climate for 24 – 48 hours prior to installation, and begin the install at the coolest part of the day. This practice minimizes the product expansion and contraction issues of synthetic materi-als. Never store the panels in direct sunlight before installing and cover with white or reflective plastic covering.

If faux panels have been stored under hot conditions, allow the simulated panels to cool down to normal temperature before installation. If they are installed while hot—they panels will contract leaving larger gaps between panels once they cool or as the seasons cools down. If faux panels have been stored at room temperature or cooler, you may install faux panels immediately.

1.2 Storing & Conditioning Urestone Panels

1.4 Tools Required

1.3 Safety Gear

•Square / tape measure •Saw guide with clamps •Grinder with masonry wheel

DRIP EDGE FLASHING

While drip edge flashing is not a requirement with the URESTONE system, it has the advantage of establishing a level ledge to start the panels on. It also aids in draining any water away from building walls.

2.1 Expansion And Contraction

All material will expand and contract with temperature changes in exterior applications, but synthetic materials like Urestone have a little more movement. Due to the foam layer, the URESTONE system insulates itself from most of the effects of expansion due to heat (except on the side of the project that faces the southern sun side exposure in typically hot regions —since the surface on the sun side could get a hot as 160 degree with dark colors.)

Shrinkage can occur more frequently. General shrinkage of the 8 ft. panels once installed can be upto a 1/4—3/8”. So it is recom-mended that the panels be tightly interlocked together panel by panel. Shrinkage on exterior applications can be minimized by using the recommended screws per panel and following the gluing process between panels ( see section 4 & 5 for more details)

2.3 Flashing (as needed)

2.2 Setting Up A Level Line

It is advised that you start the project by setting up a level line across the wall that you are applying the panels to. After the first course has been installed level, the subsequent levels should remain level.

When adding URESTONE on multiple sides of a building, before starting the project, determine the lowest and highest point on the project and adjust the first installation level accordingly. In the case of the example in the drawing , if you were to install a 42” wainscot panel at point “A” it would be at full height at that point, and cut at a slope towards point “B”. one would cut the bottom panel to fit slope of the ground level. At the front of the building, point “B” to point C and the panels for the entire front side might be cut at 36”.

There are two corner options to use with the full 4’ x 8’ ft panels which are “keyed” corners and “keyless” corners (Typically the wainscot panels only have the keyless corners available). Most people prefer the “Key Corners” since they provide the most natural transition and will work if there is a break in the system (like a door or a bump out). If there are no breaks in the project, then it is best to start and end with a “keyless corner”.

See section 8.1 for the details of the corners.

WAINSCOT FLASHING

If a URESTONE “wainscot” series panel is being installed, using a top flashing is an optional practice. However, it is a recommended procedure for this system because it provides both waterproofing properties and also provides a sharp and clean transition between the building and the panel.

Once the level line is established on the building, the flashing should be installed at that level. Then the wainscot panels are installed tightly against this flashing. Some panels may need to be cut to fit between the flashing and the ground level or drip edge.

2.0 GENERAL PANEL INSTALLATION OVERVIEW

2.4 Start The Installation With The Corners

Top Flashing

Bottom Drip Edge

2.8 Installing Multiple Levels of Panels

The preferred method of handling multiple levels is to stagger each layer by 1/2 a panel. This can be done eas-ily when using keyless corners. The only way to utilize this method with keyed corners, is if that pattern has a specifically designed half panel with keys on both ends or to create a 1/2 panel on patterns like brick.

**see website to determine which patterns have a 1/2 panel (4x4).

2.6 Screwing & Gluing Process

The process of attaching panels to the wall structure is a combination of using screws and using adhesive where the panels connect together. Screws are installed around the perimeter and in the grout lines within the panels. Adhesive is applied between the keys and shiplap joint.

• See Section 6.0 for Screwing Recommendations

• See Section 5.0 for further Adhesive Recommendations.

Adhesive or the supplied polyurethane scealant is to be applied to the tongue as the panels are installed. This reduces/eliminates shirnkage.

2.7 Terminating a Wall

Adding the last panel - Once a point is reached where a full panel is too large to place between the panel and the corner /end of the wall, you will need to measure the distance from the inside of the deepest key to the wall (figure A). Mark this distance on the back of the next panel and cut accordingly, preferably using a circular saw (figure B).

If corner pieces are not used- the panels may be mitered for an easy corner wrap. See separate instructions on mitering corners.

Beginning with the next row of panels, stagger the seams to form a more natural appearance. Continue this process onto the next vertical row, and the next, until the desired height is reached.

2.0 GENERAL PANEL INSTALLATION OVERVIEW

keyed corner

Figure A. Figure B

Step 1.

Add screws through tongue and within panel.

Step 2.

Add adhesive or approved polyurathane caulk on tongue.

Step 3.

Add screws through keys to interlocking ones.

keyless corner Side View

The optimum system to use with the URESTONE system is a combination of building wrap followed by a drainage mat. The drainage mat has deeper spacing than a drainage wrap system. Follow manu-facturers recommendation for installation details

3.3 Drainage Mat

Prior to applying the URESTONE system, the building must have the proper building wrap and drainage mat system. Consult with your proper building codes for up to date requirements but in general the following process is typically required:

3.1 Building Wrap

The primary requirement is to follow the local building codes. The URESTONE system should not be considered a completely waterproofing system and as a result, a high quality building wrap system is the minimum requirement. However, we strongly recommend using a minimum of a “drainage wrap” or a drainage mat system (see below).

A drainage wrap is a building wrap with a built in spacer system which allows some drainage behind the panel. This type of system is recommended in wet climates.

3.2 Drainage Wrap

Many building drainage systems have a base drainage channel to optimize their system. In high rain zones, the use of this channel is recommended with the URESTONE system. It will also serve as a level starting system.

3.4 Base Drainage Channel/Drip Edge Flashing

Window and door openings are typically a common area for potential waterproofing problems. The URESTONE system and typical building codes require special attention to this aspect.

Our specification for these types of openings follow the recommendations of typical building code and building wrap manufacturers of using multiple layers of waterproofing tapes and flashings on windows and door openings.

3.5 Sealing All Openings

OTHER WATERPROOFING DETAILS

3.0 WATER RESISTIVE BARRIER (WRB) APPLICATION

Fasteners should be placed in the grout lines of the TEXTURE PANEL or in an inconspicuous place. All screw heads should be counter sunk about 1/8” into the stone.

See 6.4 for caulking screws section.

Recommended Screw Placement For Exterior

For exterior applications the panel must be fastened a minimum of every 2 ft .

It is important in high wind regions and on the sun side of the building to add some additional screws around the perimeter. See the chart for the recom-mended number of screws required.

No. of Screws

4.3 Amount Of Screws Required:

When applying the URESTONE panels, the use of screws is recommended as the primary method of attaching pan-els to walls and columns. In some applications, a combination of screws and adhesive is recommended.

4.0 SCREW RECOMMENDATIONS

4.1 Screw Recommendations

The URESTONE Panel can be fastened over wood substrates using coarse thread exterior deck screws, masonry substrates require concrete “TAPCON” type screws (pre-drilling with hammer drill will be required), and steel substrates using self tapping metal screws. The screws must be ex-terior grade for outside applications (Painted, Galvanization or Stainless) and must penetrate the substrate a minimum of 3/4 ”. Typically 2 1/2”- 3” will work for most applications but depends on thickness of the panel.

Colored deck screws can be used for most applications. Use a color that is closest to the stone panel color. However, caulk will be applied over the screw.

4.2 Placement Of Screws

Interior Exterior 2 ft x 4 ft ~6 ~10 4 ft x 8 ft ~10 ~18 Wainscor ~4 ~15

Wainscot Panels

4’ x 8’ Panels It is also recommended to glue the keys together on exterior applications. (see Adhesive Recommendation section)

2’ x 4’ Panels recess screw below surface

Apply screw in mortar joint

Apply screw at an angle below a large stone

Our primary adhesive recommendation is a polyurethane construction adhesive such as PL Polyurethane Adhesive. We do not recommend non polyurethane construction adhesives or similar general purpose adhesives.

We have also found that “Great Stuff ”—a polyurethane foam in a can, has provided good results and is cost effective. It is good for ad-dressing surfaces with irregular profiles. However, contact Replications Unlimited for specific approval and instructions of how to use it.

5.0 ADHESIVE RECOMMENDATIONS AND DETAILS

The use of adhesive should not be used directly over applications that are using building wrap or waterproofing sheets. All surface areas must be clean, dry and free of oily or loose material for optimum results.

Adhesive is typically used in exterior applications in attaching the panels to concrete and concrete wall block applications.

It can also be used for attaching the URESTONE panels directly to insulation boards, construction boards (plywood, OSB, cement board) and existing EFIS systems when building wraps are not necessary. The use of adhesive can reduce the amount of screws in the range of 25—35 %. Adhesive is optional for interior applications and will also reduce the amount of screws required by 35—50%.

The use of adhesive will also reduce the expansion / contraction of the system in exterior applications.

5.2 Type Of Adhesive

The amount of required adhesive is more critical for exterior applications than interior applications due to wind uplift issues and expansion / contraction issues. Apply a minimum 3/8” bead to the backside of the panel and apply the adhesive similar to figure 5.3 in sections that will allow water to channel behind the panel and to eliminate being trapped.

5.3 Amount Of Adhesive

Size of Adhesive Tube 10 oz. 28 oz.

2 ft x 4 ft 1/3 1/12 4 ft x 8 ft 1 1/3

Size of Adhesive Tube 10 oz. 28 oz.

2 ft x 4 ft 5 2 4 ft x 8 ft 3 1

5.1 General Recommendations

Figure 5.3

Amount of Adhesive Per Panel

Number of Panels Per Tube

Step 1 - Screw panel to building. Starting with the tongues.

The Urestone can have shrinkage of 1/8—1/4” but this aspect can be reduced or eliminated if the panels are properly screwed to the wall system and if the keys are glued together at the interlocking keys. Since most buildings use a building wrap system, the keys cannot be glued directly to the wall substrate. As a result, it is important to glue the shiplap tongue together.

5.4 Gluing the panels together

When mitering corners instead of using the URESTONE existing keyed and keyless corners, it is important to glue the miter with PL Polyurethane adhesive or TREMCO 100 caulk/adhesive.

5.5 Gluing Mitered Joints

Step 2 - Apply polyurethane adhesive or approved polyurethane caulk on tongue.

Step 3 - Interlock the keys of second panel into first panel. Add screws in keys of second panel to secure the keys together.

Glue to angle for extra strength

6.0 CAULKING AND FINISHING PROCEDURES

6.1 Caulk Types and Specs

The caulk that we recommend or supply is typically available in colors (to match the color of the panel or grout color as close as possible) and has the option to have a sand texture to match the grout texture.

Consult Replications Unlimited for the current caulk recom-mendation for your specific project. We are working with sev-eral different suppliers of Acrylic, Polyurethane and Silicone sealants that each have their advantages.

*The polyurethane caulk can also be used as the adhesive for glueing the tongue and groove keys between the panels. See

5.4 for this detail.

Be sure to consult the instructions printed on the caulk tubes for specific requirements, but typically the sealants will not cure properly unless they are applied at 50 degrees for 4-6 hours.

6.5 Caulking Recessed Screws

The colored caulk is also de-signed to be used to cover up the recessed screw areas. Typically the screws should be placed in the grout areas and the same technique outlined in caulking the grout areas. If the screw in the middle of the stone, a non textured caulk may be necessary instead of a textured caulk depending on the stone panel. In both cases see feathering the caulk below and coloring instruc-tions to blend in the color where necessary .

6.3 Caulking Methods

When caulking after the panels have been installed, it is impor-tant to inject the caulk as deep as possible into the gaps. If the caulk is just applied at mini-mum depth or just on the surface then will not provide enough protection with ex-pansion and contraction. (see Figure 6.3A). The proper caulking method is to apply or inject the caulk as deep into the gaps so that it has the ability stretch with the expansion and contraction. (see figure 17C). However, in order for the caulked seams to blend in properly it is important not to add too much caulk that draws attention to the joints.

Not enough caulk may tear easily when expansion occurs.

6.2 Caulking Between Panels

Caulking is necessary to seal between the keys of the panels and between each horizontal layer (especially in exterior ap-plications). It can be done as each panel is installed (typically better because the caulk gets deeper into the gap) or after all the panels have been installed.

It is important to use the proper amount of caulk in the mortar joint. If the joint is under filled

(no. 1), there may not be enough caulk to stretch properly. Using too much caulk (no. 2) will make the joint stand out. The ideal amount is to add the amount to fill just below the level of the stones or to match the mortar joint depth of the specific stone pattern that you are using (no. 3) .

See the next section for knocking the joint size down and for texturing in the joint with a brush on certain patterns

6. 4 Caulking Methods - continued

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

8 9

6.6 Blending & Texturing Caulk

For the best result and to make sure the caulk blends in with the rest of the panel. It is helpful to have a spray bottle filled with soapy water and small brush. However, if no spray bottle is available, a cup of soapy water to dip the brush into will work.

The caulk can be blended by dipping a small artist brush into soapy water (to keep caulk from sticking to the bristles) and using the brush to even out and blend the caulk uniformly and add a textured appearance. It is important to wipe off any excess caulk that gets on the textured surface quickly before it dries. This can be accomplished using a wet sponge or rag.

6.6 INSTALLATION OPTIONS WHEN WAINSCOT PANEL IS HIGHER THAN WINDOWS

Soapy Water

7.0 COLOR AND TOUCH UP PROCESS

7.1 Touch Up Paints

Replications Unlimited has a Touch Up Paint Kit that contains 2—3 containers of paint, instructions and brushes. The paint colors are sup-plied for your specific stone color scheme. The touch up paint is a water based system and can be cleaned up with water.

There are a number of details that may require a touch up paint.

1) blending the color of the caulked grout

2) touching up the recessed screws

3) touching up scratches and damaged areas

4) touching up mitered corners

5) touching up cut foam on sides of panels or trim

7.3 Touching Up Recessed Screws

The placement of screwing the pan-els to the wall should be in the grout lines and not in the middle of the stones. If there are no grout lines, then the screws should be placed in less visible areas of the panel.

This will make the touch up process easier. If the screw is placed in the grout lines, the touch up similar to the section above / blending caulked grout areas. If the stone pattern does not have any grout areas and is place through some part of a stone, then follow the instructions on fixing scratch and damaged areas. Keep a wet rag or water spray bottle and a rag to wipe off any paint that gets on the surrounding stone.

7.4 Modified Areas, Scratched Or Damaged Areas

Touching up screws positioned in a stone area, modified areas.

scratched areas, and repairing damaged areas uses the same technique.

Here are the procedures:

Step 1: Identify the touch up paint bottle that corresponds to the stone colors. In order to keep the paint system from being too dark and to blend in better, there are two steps that are important to follow:

STEP 2: Mist the area with a very light mist of water with a spray bottle. This keeps the paint from drying too fast and also allows time for you to blend the paint in with the surrounding system.

STEP 3: Brush on the paint on a test area first to make sure the paint is not too strong in color intensity. If necessary, thin with water to make sure that the color is not too dark.(If it is, spray with water and wipe off immediately.) For large projects, you can thin the paints and put them in spray bottles for a faster and a better touch-up process.

STEP 4: After applying the paint to the area to be touched up, it is neces-sary to quickly use an absorbent cloth (available at the hardware stores) and remove the paint by by dabbing the surface (not wiping). If you wipe the surface, you will remove all the touch up paint off. The goal is for most col-ors to leave a multi-tone affect. By dabbing, it leaves the coloring on in layers or varying color affect. Some colors schemes may require using more than one color.

7.5 Touching Up Mitered Corners

When mitering corners (see section 8 & 9 for properly gluing and screwing the corner together), some touch fill in and touch up is necessary. Once the corner has been filled in any gaps with either caulk or the epoxy blending system, touch up paint is the next step to blend it in. See the process above for the proper painting procedure.

7.6 Painting Cut Foam Edges

Whenever a panel or trim is cut, the raw foam composite is exposed.

It is necessary that this cut edge be protected against UV and is sealed with 1‐2 coats of touch up paint. This is done by simply painting the edge with paint. Use textured paint for cut edges.

7.2 Blending Caulked Grout Color

The Urestone System is available in many colors and blends of colors and it is impossible to find a caulk supplier with an exact colored caulk to match every color variation. The caulked areas can be blended in match the rest of system with a small brush and the appropriate touch up paint. A quick test section should be done in a less conspicu-ous to test your technique and to make sure that the color matches and is at the correct strength. Sometimes the color supplied is full strength paint and needs to be diluted with water in order to look like the rest of the grout.

Keep a wet rag or water spray bottle and a rag to wipe off any paint that gets on the surrounding stone.

7.4 Modified Areas, Scratched Or Damaged Areas

Most of our 4ft x 8ft panels have corners with interlocking keys or fingers.

This option provides one of the most natural looking corner transition. If you have two corners on your project, the keyed corner may work to start one side but unless there is a break (like a door or bump out) between the first and opposite cor-ner, then you may not be able to have a keyed corner on the opposite side. (see figure xxx on page xx regarding corners)

8.0 OUTSIDE CORNER OPTIONS

With some patterns there are three options that are available for outside corners.

8.1 Outside Corners - Keyed

Some of URESTONE panels (like the wainscot series) only have keyless corners, while most 4 x 8 panels have both op-tions. The keyless corners have flat sides and provides more lat-titude in installing panels between corners. These corners have a little more thickness depth than the thickness of the panels and “Frame” the panels on each end. The procedure is to start with the first corner and cut off the keys on the panel used with this corner and then install the panels until you reach the other corner. Then you add the corner on the opposite side and cut the last panel to fit between this corner and the last panel.

8.2 Outside Corner - Keyless

Corners can be produced by mitering a panel. Many times this can produce the most natural transition. However, there are two aspects that need to be evaluated before deciding to do this method. First, it requires a little more workmanship and more time to accomplish properly. Secondly, this corner has to be properly glued at the miter and screwed so they do not gap in exterior applications.

When using a table saw, the panel should be cut with the pattern facing up and when using a circular saw, the panel should be cut from the backside.

CIRCULAR SAW METHOD

Step 1: With a T-square, mark the back of the panel where the cut is to be made. Before cutting the panel, look on the texture side to make sure that when the cut is made that the stones are balanced and you are not going to cause any unusually small stone patterns in the corner miter.

Step 2: It is recommended that you use a clamp on saw guide to insure that the cut is uniformly straight for a tight fit.

Step 3: Cut a 45o angle on both sides of the cut line (a triangu-lar piece will be the bi-product of the cuts.)

Step 4 : For exterior applications a polyurethane adhesive is required where the two mitered corners come together(not caulk) followed by a few screws to reinforce the corner.

8.3 Outside Corner - Mitered Corner

figure 8.3A figure 8.3B figure 8.3C

GLUE

SCREW

CAULK/PAINT

figure 8.3D

Plan view

Keyless corner is slightly thicker than panel

There are two options to that can be accomplished using inside corners, option 1) is mitered inside corners and option 2) is butt inside corners.

9.0 INSIDE CORNER OPTIONS

The butt inside corner is the simplest way to do inside corners and works well in most cases. Place the first panels all the way to the corner. Look for any high spots that might interfere with the next panel fitting tight and if necessary adjust with a saw, grinder or file.

It is recommended that caulk be placed in the corner prior to installing the adjacent panel.

Then push the adjacent panel into the caulked corner and screw in place.

9.1 Inside Corners - Butt joint

9.2 Inside Corners - Miter

The recommended methods for cutting the panels can be seen in the diagrams shown.

Figure 9.2B - Using a circular saw Figure 9.2C - Using table saw.

figure 9.2A figure 9.2B figure 9.2C figure 9.2D

Glue/Caulk

Glue/Caulk

10.0 FABRICATION OF HALF AND FULL COLUMNS

Columns can be produced from the URESTONE Key corners. A “half wall” column or Pilasters can be fabricated by putting two corners together. A full column can be fabricated by putting 4 corners together. The half and full columns are available in kits at a reduced “combo pricing.” Replications also has other wider (32—36”) “wall columns” / Pilasters—see the website for what is presently available.

10.2 Support Structure

To support the half columns / pilaster, a framed support structure is required. This can be done with simple framing and facia board. The dimensions for the framing for each column kit is available in a separate bulletin.

10.1 Half Columns/Pilasters

To fabricate this type of column, the first step is to fabricated the framed support structure outlined above. The second step is to cut off the keys on the outside corner on each corner (shown in figure 16B). Finally a set of two keys are put together and at-tached to the framed structure.

10.3 Full Columns

Full Columns: To fabricate this type of column, the first step is to fabricate a framed column base. The next step is to install 4 corners together. A column cap is typically added to the top of the column.

Figure 16A

Step 1

Figure 16B plan view elevation view plan view

See Website for updated products & new column kits & sizes elevation view

Single Corner

Two Corners

Step 2: Add 1/2 column

16” Column Kits

11.0 INSTALLING TRIM & ACCESSORIES

11.3 Using Trim Around Corners

Some of the trim series have a pre-made outside corner unit. If a series does not have a pre-made corner then the trim will need to be mitered or to be a butt joint.

x

11.4 Proper Fastening

We recommend that when attaching trim, that the screws be applied under the trim / ledger and from the top. Avoid screw-ing through the front face of the trim.

When installing trim around windows and doors and as a top ledge on brick or on a pattern with relatively uniform height , there is an option to router the trim so that it can fit over the panel. This allows a clean transition and allows some extra lati-tude on the cuts that the trim will be going over.

There are 3 ways to handle horizontal trim at the corners. the rock face trim has a pre-made 90 degree corner piece (for the 2.5” and 4” sizes) The other trims must be installed with a butt joint or by mitering them.

11.1 Routering Trim To Cover

11.2 Options On Installing Horizontal Trim

11.5 Windows Trim

In most cases, it is recommended that a ledger (ledgers have a 5-10 degree slope to them for water drainage.) with a larger height than the sides to be used for the window sill.

90 Degree Corner (see 11.3)

Butt Joint

Miter Joint

TRIM SERIES URESTONE PANEL

Rock face Ledgestone Ledgestone Ledgestone Limestone Castle Stone, Stacked Stone, Vir-ginia Stacked, Brick, Limestone Profile Castle Stone, Stacked Stone, Vir-ginia Stacked, Brick, Limestone Tuscan Brick, Ledgestone, Stacked stone Brick Brick

REPLICATIONS has a variety of trim and molding that can be used with the stone, brick and miscellaneous textures. The spe-cific trim used is somewhat a matter of an individual preference but also some trim are more compatible with a specific Texture.

See the chart for our recommendations.

11.6 Trim Selection Chart

The height of the trim recommended depends on the where it is used but also depends on the size of the building exterior.

The trim height should be in proportion to the size of the building exterior and the amount of the textured panels used.

Small projects should use smaller trim heights and larger proj-ects should use larger trim heights.

TRIM HEIGHT SIZE

1 - 1 1/2” 2 - 2 1/2” 3 - 4”

Window Sides / Header

Primary Primary Secondary

Window Sill Secondary Primary Primary Doors Secondary Primary Primary Panel Termination Primary Secondary Secondary

11.7 Trim Size Recommendation

11.8 Adding Stone Receptacle Boxes

1. Cut appropriate size hole using a grinder with a cutting blade, jig saw or other power tool.

2. Apply glue to stone trim.

3. Place stone trim box in place.

4. Caulk the gap between box and panel.

11.9 Terminating Panels at Corners & Doors

To support the half columns / pilaster, a framed support structure is required. This can be done with simple framing and facia board.

The dimensions for the framing for each column kit is available in a separate bulletin.

11.10 Other Trim & Termination Options

We offer some standard and custom metal trim options that can be used for terminating and finishing our stone and brick designs.

Metal Gable Trim

Replications has the ability to have custom metal trims designed / fabricated for special details.

Metal Pilaster Cap

URESTONE can be applied directly over poured concrete walls and concrete block walls (and brick). Another options is to apply furring strips and then screwing panels to the furring strips every 12 inches. All cracks and mortar joints should be addressed and sealed since the Urestone should not be considered a total weather barrier system. If necessary, a water channel system could be beneficial. Consult with your local codes for requirements

Applying the URESTONE to a concrete, brick or masonry wall can be accom-plished in two methods. One method is to apply furring strips over the existing surface or metal hat channel and then screwing the URESTONE system similar to applying the panels over the framing. The other method is to glue and screw the panel directly to the masonry surface per the steps outlined below.

12.0 APPLICATION DETAILS OVER CONCRETE/MASONARY SUBSTRATE

Add Adhesive to back of panel.

See adhesive recommendations for more details.

Using a Forstner bit, drill through the surface of the panel just deep enough to hide the head of the Tapcon screw or anchoring sys-tem that will be used to secure the panels. The size of the Forstner bit should produce a hole just large enough for the nut driver bit to install the screw.

Using a hammer drill, pre-drill the hole per the instructions of the Tapcon screw recommen-dations.

Recess screw head 1/8 inch below the service of the surface. Apply the appropriate colored texture caulk over screw area and use touch up paints to blend in. (see Section 6 & 7 for more details.)

Figure 10A

Figure 10B

Figure 10C

Figure 10D

12.1 Option #1

12.2 Option #2 - Installing Furring Strips

A more preferred option for installing URESTONE over brick, masonry block or a cement wall system is to utilize wood furring strips or metal hat channel over the wall structure.

10.2a - Add a building wrap or drainage mat per Section 5.0 and address the window and door opening flashing and trim per section xxx.

10.2b - Install 3/4” x 4” wood strips vertical at 12—16 inches intervals and at the bottom and top of each panel.

10.2c - For best results, glue and screw panels to the support furring strips or channel.

Post Framed Metal Building applications are different from Metal Buildings that have Metal Framing applications. The key dif-ference in installing a stone or brick wainscot on a Post Framing project, POST FRAME BUILDINGS

Step 1- Apply a construction board such as OSB and proper framing to the intended wainscot height (24—48”).

Step 2 - Apply a “J channel” or similar flashing at the wainscot height.

Step 3 - Apply the metal siding to the top of the wainscot flashing.

Step 4 - Apply the wainscot panel under the Flashing. Use the same installation details outlined in applying the URESTONE system over wood siding.

14.0 APPLICATIONS DETAILS FOR WOOD/METAL FRAME CONSTRUCTION

Figure 11A

There are a number of methods to apply URESTONE panels to metal siding applications. In metal framed building applications, where R-panel is typically used, the URESTONE panels can be applied over the siding profiles and we also have R-panel flashing for the gap between the metal building profile and the Urestone panel.

In post frame / wood framed metal buildings, the metal siding is typically stopped 24-48” from the ground level and a construction board is used on this lower wainscot level. A “J Trim” is used as a flashing between the Metal build-ing siding and this lower wainscot area.

The Urestone is then applied below this “J trim” and screwed into the OSB or similar material used for the wainscot area.

• See Section 3.0 for Water Barrier Application for recommended types of bar-riers.

13.0 METAL BUILDING CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

15.1 Application Over Metal Building “R-PANEL” Metal Siding

15.0 APPLICATION DETAILS OVER METAL BUILDING SIDING

There are a number of application variations to apply the URESTONE in metal siding application depending if the project is a typical “Metal Building” (Steel Framing) or a “Post Framing” (Wood Framing) application . Below are some typical recommen-dations on each type.

REPLICATIONS UNLIMITED has designed flashing that fits the profile of an R-panel to fill in the gap between the metal siding and the URESTONE panel. (see figure 12A)

The first step to the installation is to apply the R-Panel flashing on the metal siding at the intended height on the building (typically the height of the URESTONE wainscot panels are between 36—42 inches…