DRAFT MIL-DTL-MC045 04.10.24.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 10 April 2024, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8410-2024-003)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-MC045

DRAFT

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

BLOUSE, MATERNITY, UTILITY — MARINE CORPS

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the Marine Corps Maternity Uniform (MCMU) utility blouse in a camouflage pattern.

1.2 Classification. The MCMU utility blouse is of one type, in the following classes, sizes, and lengths, as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 – Woodland Marine Corps Pattern (MARPAT)

Class 2 – Desert MARPAT

1.2.2 Schedule of sizes. The blouse is constructed in the sizes and lengths indicated in table I.

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes.

Sizes Lengths

X-Small X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

Small X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

Medium X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

Large X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

X-Large X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

XX-Large X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

INCH-POUND

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil

DRAFT DATED 10 APRIL 2024

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

40 CFR 799 - Identification of Specific Chemical Substance and Mixture Testing Requirements

(Copies of this document are available online at www.ecfr.gov.)

DEFENSE LOGISTICS AGENCY (DLA) TROOP SUPPORT

DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements

(Copies of this document are available online at www.dla.mil.)

MARINE CORPS SYSTEMS COMMAND

MIL-PRF-MCCUU - Uniform, Utility, Camouflage Pattern, Marine Corps

(Copies of this document are available by emailing USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil.)

U.S. ARMY COMBAT CAPABILITIES DEVELOPMENT COMMAND SOLDIER CENTER

EGA Embroidery File

(Copies of the EGA Embroidery File are available from the U.S. Army Combat Capabilities Development

Command Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics

(Grab Test) https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://armyeitaas-my.sharepoint-mil.us/personal/lee_a_charpentier_civ_army_mil/Documents/Documents/Currently%20Ongoing%20In%20work/MCMU/www.ecfr.gov https://www.dla.mil/ mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.4) in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The MCMU uniform blouse design (see table II) is a modified version of the United States Marine

Corps Combat Utility Uniform (MCCUU) blouse design, including a permanent press/wrinkle-free finish. There is no insect protection treatment applied (see 3.4.1.2).

TABLE II. Blouse design.

Design Feature Detail

Front closure Single-breasted with a concealed front button closure

Collar Band collar with curved collar ends

Long sleeves Adjustable wrist tabs (one button/three buttonholes per sleeve)

Breast pockets (2) Patch pocket, angled at 65 degrees, with pocket openings angled toward the center front, on each side of the chest

Flap closure secured with hook and loop tape at each end

Left breast pocket (as worn) Embroidered Eagle, Globe, and Anchor (EGA), centered 1/

Body A-line

Adjustment buttons Three buttons on the body of the blouse starting at side seams toward the back

Adjustable side tabs Tab from the waist side seam on each side, toward the back in line with the adjustment buttons, with one buttonhole in each tab

Bottom Curved

Fusible interfacing Applied to collar and breast pocket flaps

Permanent press finish (see 6.5) Applied in garment form

FOOTNOTE:

1/ When specified (see 6.2), the EGA embroidery shall be omitted. Alternative embroidery files may be provided by the contracting agency.

3.3.1 Figures. Figures 1 through 7 are provided for informational purposes only; when inconsistencies exist between the written specification and figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.4 Material and components.

3.4.1 Basic material. When tested as specified in 4.3.1.2, the basic material for the blouse shall be the lightweight nylon/cotton twill printed with a camouflage pattern that is used on the Marine Corps Combat Utility https://www.astm.org/

Uniform (see 3.4.1.2). The class 1 blouse shall use MIL-PRF-MCCUU, cloth type I, class 1, and the basic material for the class 2 blouse shall be MIL-PRF-MCCUU, cloth type II, class 1.

3.4.1.1 Permanent-press treatment. The garment shall be given a permanent-press treatment as specified in

MIL-PRF-MCCUU. As an exception, the sleeve crease locations shall be in accordance with 3.8. The treated basic material and end item shall meet the requirements for permanent press treatment specified in MIL-PRF-MCCUU when tested as specified in 4.3.2.2.

3.4.1.2 Insect bite protection. As an exception to MIL-PRF-MCCUU, the MCMU blouse shall not be given an insect bite protection treatment in the fabric or end-item. Insect bite protection related requirements and verifications specified in MIL-PRF-MCCUU are not applicable to the MCMU blouse.

3.4.2 Components.

3.4.2.1 Interfacing. The fusible interfacing for the pocket flaps shall conform to MIL-C-44296, type V, class 3, style B when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2. The fusible interfacing shall have the same life expectancy as the garment.

3.4.2.2 Thread. The thread shall conform to the requirements of table III when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2.

TABLE III. Thread requirements.

Location Needle/Bobbin Requirement Size

(Ticket/Tex)

Seams, stitchings, and bartacks

Needle and bobbin

(looper)

A-A-50199, type I 1/ Ticket: 50

Tex: 36 to 50

Optional bobbin (looper) A-A-50199, type I 2/ Ticket: 70

Tex: 31 to 35

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Minimum breaking strength of 3.2 pounds.

2/ Minimum breaking strength of 2.6 pounds.

3.4.2.3 Embroidery thread. The thread used for embroidery on the blouse shall conform to the requirements of table IV when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2.

TABLE IV. Embroidery thread requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Needle thread 100 percent polyester, bright, continuous filament (see 6.8.1 and 6.8.2)

Bobbin thread 100 percent nylon conforming to A-A-59826, type I, class A, 210 denier, ticket 70, 3-ply

Color for class 1 blouse Black 477

Color for class 2 blouse Madeira 1957

3.4.2.4 Hook and loop fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tape for the breast pocket closure flaps shall conform to the requirements of table V when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2.

TABLE V. Hook and loop fastener tape requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Physical requirements A-A-55126, type II, class 1

Color for class 1 blouse Camo Green 483

Color for class 2 blouse Khaki 475

Length and width 1±1/16 inches wide by 1±1/16 inches long

Cut edge Finished to ensure no raveling

3.4.2.5 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to table VI when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2.

TABLE VI. Button requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Physical requirements A-A-59994, type I, class 1, style 26

Color for class 1 blouse Marine Olive Drab Green

Color for class 2 blouse Tan 380

Finish Matte finish #21

Size 30 ligne

3.4.2.6 Blouse labels. The blouse labels shall conform to the requirements of table VII when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2. The permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall be in accordance with the requirements of table VII. Dimensional tolerance is ±1/8 inch. A sample of each label shall be submitted to the Government prior to use, as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE VII. Blouse labels.

Label Features Requirements

1. Size label

a. Physical requirements

Style: MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 2 with the following exceptions:

(1) Dimensions: 1-3/4 inches wide by 1-1/4 inches long (excluding seam allowance)

(2) Background color:

(a) Class 1 blouse: Medium Green, Cable No. 70034, 70130, or 70131

(b) Class 2 blouse: Khaki, Cable No. 70188

b. Inscription Format: in accordance with figure 6

Font: 10 point Arial, black

Information: size and length in accordance with table I

c. Location (1) Placement: directly below the combination label.

Attachment: top of the size label caught in the lower row of stitching of the combination label with a 1/4 inch seam allowance

Alternative attachment: as an alternate, may be positioned directly below the combination label and attached by stitching across the top of the label

TABLE VII. Blouse labels – Continued.

Label Features Requirements

2. Combination label

a. Physical requirements

Style: MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 15 with the following exceptions:

(1) Dimensions: the label shall be no larger than the pocket to which it is attached

(2) Background color:

(a) Class 1 blouse: Medium Green, Cable No. 70034, 70130, or 70131

(b) Class 2 blouse: Khaki, Cable No. 70188

b. Inscription Format: In accordance with figure 7:

(1) For the class1 blouse:

MATERNITY BLOUSE, WOODLAND MARPAT™ CAMOUFLAGE, MCMU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

(2) For the class 2 blouse:

MATERNITY BLOUSE, DESERT MARPAT™ CAMOUFLAGE, MCMU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

c. Location Placement: backside of the right breast pocket (as worn), with the inscription facing the wearer (see figure 2).

Attachment: sewn on all four sides

Requirement: the stitching shall not cover, obscure, or affect the readability of the text

3. Lot designation label

a. Physical requirements

DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements –

Lot numbering

b. Inscription DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements –

Lot numbering

c. Location Placement: next to or above the combination label

Attachment: sewn on all four sides

Requirement: the stitching shall not cover, obscure, or affect the readability of the text

4. Barcode label

a. Physical requirements

MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17

b. Inscription MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17

c. Location Attached to the garment by a fastener

Completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified in 5.1

Location and attachment method cause no damage to the item

3.5 End item physical requirements. The finished blouse shall conform to the physical requirements specified in table IX when tested as specified in 4.3.2.2. Testing in table IX shall be performed after permanent press treatment has been applied.

TABLE IX. End item physical requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Basic material

Class 1 blouse MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Class 2 blouse MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Garment

Blouse button pull test (minimum) 40 pounds

Toxicity 3.5.1

3.5.1 Toxicity. When specified (see 6.2), toxicity testing (see 4.3.2.4) shall be conducted to ensure the toxicity of the blouse is in accordance with guidance in DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality

Assurance Requirements. Since the MCMU is intended to be worn by pregnant individuals, it shall also meet additional requirements of 40 CFR § 799.9370 (see 6.10).

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Government patterns show size and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for the proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns.

Patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for single needle seams and 1/2 inch for double needle seams. The list of pattern parts and computer nomenclature is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. If the contractor notices changes in the fabric dimensions resulting from the application of the permanent-press finish, the contractor shall prepare a set of working patterns by modifying the Government patterns to accommodate for the shrinkage of the blouse during the permanent-press application process. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall submit that working pattern file to the Government for review prior to cutting. Once approved, those working patterns shall be used to cut and construct the blouse to meet the dimensional requirements of 3.9.1. Additional notching is permitted if needed to facilitate manufacture. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited herein or governed by the Government pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the materials and the number of parts specified in table X.

TABLE X. List of blouse pattern parts.

Material Piece Name Cut Parts

Basic material (3.4.1) FRONT 2

TOP SLEEVE 2

UNDER SLEEVE 2

COLLAR 2

SIDE TAB 4

BREAST POCKET 2

BREAST POCKET FLAP 2

CUFF TAB 2

CUFF 2

BACK 1

LEFT FRONT FLY 1

Interfacing (fusible) (see 3.4.2.1) SIDE TAB FUSIBLE 2

TOP COLLAR FUSIBLE 1

BREAST POCKET FLAP FUSIBLE 2

Template/shaper COLLAR TEMPLATE 0

3.7 Blouse finished dimensions. The blouse shall conform to the finished dimensions of table XI as defined in table XII, when tested as specified in 4.3.5. All measurements shall be taken with the garment buttoned and laid flat on a table. Dimensions and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE XI. Finished blouse dimensions.

Letter Measurement Length XX-Small X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Tolerance

A Half bust All lengths

20-1/2 21 21-3/4 22-1/2 23-1/4 24-1/4 25-1/4 ±3/4

B Half sweep 29 29-1/2 30-1/4 31 31-3/4 32-3/4 33-3/4 ±3/4

C Cross back 15-1/4 15-5/8 16 16-3/8 16-3/4 17-1/8 17-1/2 ±3/4

D Collar height 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-3/8 ±1/8

E Back length Short 27-1/4 27-1/2 27-3/4 28 28-1/4 28-1/2 28-3/4 ±3/4

Regular 28-3/4 29 29-1/4 29-1/2 29-3/4 30 30-1/4

Long 30-1/4 30-1/2 30-3/4 31 31-1/4 31-1/2 31-3/4

F Sleeve length

Short 22 22-1/4 22-1/2 22-3/4 23 23-1/4 23-1/2 ±3/4

Regular 23 23-1/4 23-1/2 23-3/4 24 24-1/4 24-1/2

Long 24 24-1/4 24-1/2 24-3/4 25 25-1/4 25-1/2

TABLE XII. Methods of measure for finished blouse dimensions.

Letter Measurement Method Measurement Depiction

A Half bust From side seam folded edge to opposite side seam folded edge across blouse chest in line with the pit of the armhole

(bottom of seam)

B Half sweep From side seam folded edge horizontally across to the opposite side seam folded edge, with the facing closed at the center front

TABLE XII. Methods of measure for finished blouse dimensions – Continued.

Letter Measurement Method Measurement Depiction

C Cross back Measure straight across the back from one sleeve outseam to the opposite seam outseam

D Collar height Along center back of collar from setting seam to the top of the collar

E Back length Along center back from undercollar seam to bottom edge of blouse (in line with grain of fabric for straight line)

F Sleeve length With sleeve folded along the underarm seam, taken from the top edge of the sleeve at the armhole seam to the bottom of the sleeve cuff, along the top folded edge of the sleeve

3.8 Construction requirements. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements in table XIII and table XIV and the finished dimensions cited in 3.7 to maintain end item configuration as verified in

4.3.4 and 4.3.5.

TABLE XIII. Construction details.

Construction Feature Requirement

1. Thread

a. Tension Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching

b. Shade Consistent thread shade on the outside of the garment

c. Breaks (all stitch types) (1) Secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/4 or 1/2 inch overlap

(2) If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type

d. Ends Trimmed to 1/4 inch or less

e. Loose threads All removed

2. Stitches and seams

a. Stitch and seam types (1) In accordance with ASTM D6193

(2) In accordance with table XIV

b. Appearance Consistent, exhibiting a uniform appearance

c. Underside of seams (inside the garment)

Flat, with no protruding seam allowances or raw edges that could cause irritation, discomfort, or poor appearance

d. Stitches per inch (1) All outside visible stitching: 10 to 14 stitches per inch

(2) Overedging or prehemming: 6 to 10 stitches per inch

e. 401 or 101 stitch type Loops of the chain finish on the inside of the garment

f. Overedging Knife set to trim the loose threads and raveled edge without cutting the material

g. Seams and seam allowances Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result

h. Raw edges (1) The following shall be not allowed:

(a) Raw edges on the outside of the garment

(b) Raw edges on the inside along the double needle seams

(c) Raw edges greater than 1/8 inch on the inside of the garment

(2) Raw edges may be turned-in, turned-under, or serged to prevent raveling

i. Beginning and ending of seams Start and finish evenly

j. Joined components Lie smooth and flat

k. Ends of seams and stitching –

301 stitch type

If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than 1/4 inch

l. Skipped stitches (301 or 401) Repaired by using 301 stitch type

m. Edge, raise, and topstitching (1) Edge and raise stitching: positioned 1/16 inch from the edge

(2) Topstitching: positioned 1/4 inch from the edge

3. Fusible interfacings (1) Applied in accordance with the supplier’s recommendation for time, temperature, and pressure

(2) Centered on the basic material component part according to the pattern

4. Blouse buttons (1) Securely fastened to the garment by locking stitches

(2) Minimum of 16 stitches per button

(3) “C” stitch pattern

TABLE XIII. Construction details – Continued.

Construction Feature Requirement

5. Blouse buttonholes (1) Positioned in accordance with marks on patterns

(2) Eyelet end, tapered bar, with 7/8-inch cut opening and 52 to 56 stitches per inch

(3) Purling between tab and flap plies, front facing and front plies, and on the outside of the blouse

(4) Front cut edge positioned 3/4 ±1/8 inch from front folded edge for the blouse

6. Blouse bartacks (1) 3/8 ±1/16 bartack, 20 to 27 stitches per bartack

(2) Positioned in accordance with specific construction features (front closure, sleeves, breast pockets, and side tabs) and as shown on figure 1

7. Front closure (1) Top button in accordance with the patterns (see figure 1)

(2) Left front fly piece, including vertical bartacks, in accordance with the patterns (see figure 1)

8. Banded collar Curved collar ends shaped in accordance with the template/shaper

9. Sleeves (1) Wrist adjustment tabs, buttons, and buttonholes constructed in accordance with marks on patterns (see figure 1 and figure 4)

(2) Horizontal bartack positioned on each sleeve inseam at the bottom edge

(3) Vertical bartack positioned at each end of cuff tab along vertical stitching

10. Breast pockets (2) (1) Positioned on fronts in accordance with marks on patterns (see figure 1)

(2) Two 1-by-1-inch pieces of hook fastener tape (flap) and two 1-by-1-inch pieces of loop fastener tape (pocket) positioned in accordance with marks on patterns.

(3) Flaps finish 1/2±1/8 inch above top pocket when measured from top of finished pocket to pocket flap setting seam

(Note: positioning mark on pattern indicates required finished location of pocket flap)

(4) End of flaps backstitched 1/2 inch, back and forth three times, positioned at top right and left corners

(5) Vertical bartacks positioned at top corners of the breast pockets

(6) Horizontal bartacks positioned at top corners of the breast pocket flaps

(7) Vertical bartacks positioned at each side of pen opening on the left breast pocket flap

11. EGA embroidery 1/ (1) Positioned in accordance with pattern marks, centered on the left breast pocket (as worn) (see figure 1)

(2) Overall dimensions: 2-1/4 by 2-1/2 inches (see figure 1)

(3) Stitch pattern, minimum number of stitches, and dimensions in accordance with the Government-provided EGA Embroidery File (see 6.2)

(4) Embroidery applied without puckering, deformation, loose threads, missed stitches, missed trim, poor registration, incomplete stitching, broken or skipped stitches, incomplete coverage of background material, bunched or tangled threads, tight or loose tension affecting appearance, or stitches out of alignment affecting appearance

TABLE XIII. Construction details – Continued.

Construction Feature Requirement

12. Sleeve crease (1) Placed on the outer folded edge of the sleeve

(2) Starts at a point opposite the armhole seam (+0/-1/4 inch) and ends at the bottom cuff edge

13. Side tabs (2) (1) Side adjustment tabs, buttons, and buttonholes constructed in accordance with marks on patterns (see figure 1)

(2) Vertical bartack positioned at each end of cuff tab along vertical stitching.

FOOTNOTE:

1/ When specified (see 6.2), the EGA embroidery shall be omitted.

TABLE XIV. Seam types.

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type

1. Sleeve seams, shoulder seams, and side seams

LSc-2 3/16 to 5/8 inch gage 301 or 401

2. Top stitching for pocket flaps, collar, cuff tab, side tabs, and front edges

OSf-1 1/4 inch from the edge 301

3. Attachment of patch pockets LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from finished edge 301

4. Pocket flap attachment – double needle flap stitching

LSbj-2

(modified)

Two rows of double needle stitching 3/16 to

1/4 inch apart

5. Label attachment LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges 301

6. Body and sleeve hems EFb-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 301

3.9 Workmanship. The treated blouse shall conform to the quality of product established by this document, be uniform, and be free from the defects specified in 4.3.4.2 and those defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function. Defects shall not exceed the established Acceptance Quality Limits (AQLs), as specified (see 6.2), and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

3.9.1 Disposal. All scraps, garment seconds, irregulars, extra material, and extra garments shall be disposed of as specified in the contract (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, when required in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be examined in accordance with 4.3.1 through 4.3.5 for compliance with the appearance, color, finish, design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional, and testing requirements as specified herein.

4.2.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. The first article sample lot size shall be expressed in units of blouses. The sample size and the sample unit shall be as specified in the contract (see 6.2). The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in 4.3.1 through 4.3.5. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components, materials, and end items to determine conformance to stated requirements.

4.3.1 Materials and components (see 3.4).

4.3.1.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for verification of materials and components. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), material and component sampling shall be in accordance with table XV. The unit for expressing lot size and sample unit shall be in accordance with the applicable reference documents. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified in this document.

TABLE XV. Material and component sampling.

Lot Size Sample Size (# of Sample Units)

800 or less 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

4.3.1.2 Material and component examinations and tests. To determine compliance with 3.4, the materials and components shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests referenced in table XVI unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or applicable procurement documents

(see 6.2).

TABLE XVI. Material and component verification.

Material/Component Requirement Verification method/reference

Untreated basic material 3.4.1 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Interfacing 3.4.2.1 MIL-C-44296

Thread 3.4.2.2 Per thread specification listed in table III

Embroidery thread 3.4.2.3 Per thread specification listed in table IV

Hook and loop fastener tape 3.4.2.4 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Buttons 3.4.2.5 A-A-59994

Button shade 3.4.2.5 AATCC EP9, option A

Labels 3.4.2.6 Visual, and as specified in documents referenced in table VII

4.3.2 End item physical requirements.

4.3.2.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for verification of end item physical requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of finished end items, and the sample unit shall be six end items. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.3.2.2 End item physical requirements examination and tests. The finished end items, after the application of the permanent-press treatment (see 3.4.1.1), shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests referenced in table XVII unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

TABLE XVII. End item physical requirements verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification

Treated basic material (after garment has been treated with permanent press treatment)

Class 1 blouse 3.5 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Class 2 blouse 3.5 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Garment physical tests (after garment has been treated with permanent press treatment)

Button pull 3.5 4.3.2.3

Toxicity 3.5.1 4.3.2.4

4.3.2.3 Button pull test. The buttons attached to the blouse for use with the adjustment tabs shall meet the requirements stated in 3.5 when tested in accordance with ASTM D5034, except that the button shall be slid on top of 1-inch-wide grips separated at least 3/8 inch so that the button loosely rests evenly on top of the grips. Only manually adjusted grips shall be allowed, not pneumatic. The button attachment stitching shall be placed in the middle of the bottom grips and adjusted an additional 3/8 inch down so that the grips grab the fabric just below the stitching, not on the stitching. The tensile machine shall be run per the test method, and the force required to pull the button from the sewn garment shall be recorded.

4.3.2.4 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.5.1) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required on the finishing treatments used6.2. If dermal toxicity testing is required, it shall be performed in accordance with the contract, as specified (see 6.2).

4.3.3 In-process examination. Visual examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether material or construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified herein. Materials that contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.3.4, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished material shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.3.4.

4.3.4 Visual inspection of end items.

4.3.4.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for visual inspection of end items. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of blouses, and the sample unit shall be one blouse. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing, as specified (see 6.2), shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.3.4.2 Visual examination. The end item shall be examined for defects in color, shade, design, materials, construction, workmanship, and marking. Defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in table XVIII. Table XIV provides guidance regarding methods of measurement to determine evenness between garment parts, such as inseams or pocket alignment. The inspection conditions and AQLs shall be as specified (see

6.2).

TABLE XVIII. Defects.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

1. Material Defects are as specified in ASTM D3990 and include, but are not limited to, holes, slubs, cuts, tears, abrasion marks, smash, burn, drill hole, run, needle chew, missing or broken yarns, visible mends, knots, thin place, dye streaks, or misweaves affecting appearance or serviceability

2. Camouflage pattern

(basic material)

a. Camouflage pattern design not equal to standard sample or drawing, incorrect color in any part of the pattern

b. Camouflage pattern repeat not equal to the standard sample or drawing

c. Skitteriness (mottled, uneven color) of pattern exceeds that shown by the standard sample

d. Grinning (off register, gap where ground shade shows through) of pattern exceeds that shown by the standard sample

e. Haloing or trapping (overlapping of colors) of pattern exceeds that shown by the standard sample

3. Material and component assembly

a. Material or component part not as specified or omitted 107

b. Distorted, full, tight, or twisted; any part of the garment caught in any unrelated stitching

c. The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch

d. Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease 202

e. Any required operation or assembly not as specified, omitted, or improperly performed

f. Component part not cut on warp or as specified 110

g. Bubbling, delaminating, wrinkling, puckering 203

4. Shade a. Shade variation within a part or between parts 1/ 204

b. Component part color not as specified 205

5. Stitching and seams a. Seam, seam allowance, or stitch type not as specified 111

b. Seams irregular, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, full, or twisted

c. Open seam, raw edge on outside, raw edge on inside along double needle seam, raw edge greater than 1/8 inch on the inside of the garment

d. Raw edge:

(1) On outside 113

(2) On inside:

(a) Up to 1/2 inch 207

(b) 1/2 inch or greater 114

e. Loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch 208

f. Broken stitching not repaired as specified 209

g. End of seam not secured as specified 115

TABLE XVIII. Defects – Continued.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

5. Stitching and seams

– Cont’d.

h. Double needle intersecting seams staggered by more than 1/4 inch

i. Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge (resulting in damage to cloth), needle chew, or visible mend

j. Run off for edge and raise stitching greater than 1/8 inch 212

k. Shade of thread not as specified 136

6. Bartacks a. Bartack missing or not secure 213

b. Bartack not positioned as specified 214

c. Bartack not required length or width 215

d. Number of stitches not as specified or broken stitches 216

7. Hook and loop fastener tape

a. Hook and loop out of alignment by more than 1/4 inch 217

b. Omitted or not positioned as specified 116

c. Any tape not securely attached, distorted, full, tight, frayed, damaged, or twisted

8. Labels a. Label omitted; incorrect type, size, color, or configuration;

illegible; incorrect inscription; spelling errors; improperly attached;

not attached as specified; peeling

b. Barcode not readable by scanner, human-readable interpretation omitted or illegible

c. Barcode not visible on folded, packaged item 219

d. Barcode attachment causes damage to the item 119

9. Pockets and pocket flaps

a. Pocket or flap not stitched as specified, not positioned as specified, or incorrect size

b. Pocket or pocket flap twisted, curled, or puckered 221

c. Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening 222

d. Pocket flaps not centered over pocket opening; flap width extends past finished pocket edge by more than 1/8 inch on either side

e. Any pocket or pocket flap measurement not as specified 224

10. Cleanliness a. Spot or stain (more than 1 inch), odor, embedded foreign matter, or overall uncleanliness

b. More than two thread ends not trimmed to 1/2 inch or less on the outside of the garment, more than five thread ends not trimmed to

1/2 inch or less on the inside of the garment.

c. Five or more loose threads of 1 inch or more not removed throughout the garment (inside and outside combined)

d. Two or more tickets not removed 227

TABLE XVIII. Defects – Continued.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

11. Pressing a. Unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in garment 121

b. Crease not as specified, such as location, continuity, uniformity, or sharpness

c. Shiny impressions visible from a three-foot distance 123

d. Scorched, burnt, odor, or discoloration 124

e. Pressing causing damage or loss of a component 125

12. Packaging Any end item not packaged in accordance with 5.1 228

13. Buttons and

Buttonholes

a. Any button and buttonhole out of alignment causing bulge, twist, or distortion when buttoned

b. Cut opening of pocket flap buttonhole caught in topstitching 128

c. Buttonhole omitted or added, type not as specified, location or direction not as specified, or cut length not as specified

d. Buttonhole not clean cut or not securely caught in fabric 229

e. Buttonhole opening greater than 7/8 inch 230

f. Gimp omitted from buttonhole or not as specified 130

g. Button missing, broken, defective, or insecurely sewn 231

h. Stitching not locked at end of cycle (determined by tugging loose end of thread)

i. Purling not on side specified 233

j. Button not attached with “C” stitch pattern 234

14. Collar Collar curled, puckered, pleated, or twisted 235

15. Fly lining Blouse fly lining exposed more than 1/16 inch 236

16. Bottom and sleeve hems

a. Hem twisted, wavy, omitted, or not as specified 237

b. Hem width of blouse bottom less than 1/2 inch or more than

3/4 inch, sleeve hem width less than 2-3/8 inch or more than

2-5/8 inch

(Note: hem measurement taken from top to bottom fold)

c. Cuff and cuff tab out of alignment with the bottom folded edge of the sleeve hem by more than 1/8 inch

17. Sleeve buttons and buttonholes

a. Sleeve buttonhole placement not as specified (see figure 5): first buttonhole not aligned with cuff tab button, second buttonhole less than 4-1/8 inches or more than 4-3/8 inches from first, third buttonhole less than 1-7/8 or more than 2-1/8 inches from second

b. Eyelet end of sleeve buttonhole less than 5/8 or more than 7/8 inch from bottom edge of sleeve hem

TABLE XVIII. Defects – Continued.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

18. Breast pockets a. Pockets not uniform in size or shape 241

b. Out of horizontal alignment by more than 1/4 inch 242

c. Front edge of breast pocket not at 65-degree angle to front edge of blouse by 1/4 inch or more

d. Not matching the grain of the camouflage material 244

e. Hem stitching exposed below pocket flap 245

19. Embroidered EGA 2/

a. Omitted, not positioned as specified, misplaced stitching, improperly sized, color not as specified, puckered, deformed, loose threads, or missed stitches

b. Any deviation from the Government provided EGA Embroidery

File, minimum number of stitches not met

c. Missed trim, poor registration, stitching incomplete, broken or skipped stitches, incomplete coverage of background material, bunched or tangled threads

d. Loose or tight tension affecting appearance; stitches out of alignment affecting appearance.

e. More than two free ends or three or more occurrences of untrimmed thread 1/2 inch or longer

f. Overall measurement outside of the ±1/16-inch tolerance 249

20. Blouse evenness 3/ a. Length of blouse fronts uneven by more than 1/4 inch at top or bottom when buttoned

b. End of collar and edge of front facing out of alignment by more than 1/8 inch when buttoned

c. Blouse collar rounded ends vary by more than 1/8 inch 251

d. Sleeve lengths vary by more than 1/2 inch 135

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Parts suspected of being off shade shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against a background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is discernable under these examination conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

2/ Not applicable if contract specifies EGA is omitted (see 6.2).

3 Evenness can be determined by comparing measurements of companion parts or by aligning parts and measuring the difference in lengths as described in table XIV. Except for the collar, evenness comparisons shall be conducted by extending the portions of the garments in parallel between two hands without stretching and then inspecting for evenness. Where evenness defects are found, the garments shall be laid flat on a measuring surface and the difference in lengths recorded.

4.3.5 Dimensional examination of end items.

4.3.5.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for dimensional examination of end items. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of blouses, and the sample unit shall be one blouse. The presence of excessive defects, as specified (see 6.2), shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.3.5.2 Dimensional examination. The end item shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table XIII and when measured as specified in table XIV. Any measurement deviating from dimensions and tolerances specified shall be scored as a measurement defect. The inspection conditions and the AQLs shall be as specified (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The blouse is a component of the MCMU intended for wear by female military personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Classes, sizes, and lengths required (see 1.2).

c. National stock numbers (NSN).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1).

e. When conformance inspection is required (see 3.1.2).

f. When the EGA embroidery is to be omitted and when alternative embroidery files should be used

(see table II, table VIII, and table XVIII).

g. When Government approval of the label inscription is required (see 3.4.2.6).

h. Toxicity requirements and testing (see 3.5.1 and 4.3.2.4).

i. Applicable Government patterns (see 3.6).

j. When Government approval of the contractor’s working files is required (see 3.6).

k. AQLs (see 3.9, 4.3.4.2, and 4.3.5.2).

l. Disposal of class 1 and class 2 (see 3.9.1).

m. First article sampling and acceptance criteria, including sample size and sample unit (see 4.2.1).

n. Conformance inspection criteria (see 4.3).

o. Material and component sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.1.1).

p. Material and component examinations and tests (see 4.3.1.2).

q. End item physical requirements sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.2.1).

r. End item physical requirements examination and tests (see 4.3.2.2).

s. Visual examination sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.4.1).

t. Visual inspection conditions and AQLs (see 4.3.4.2).

u. Dimensional examination sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.5.1).

v. Dimensional examination inspection conditions and AQLs (see 4.3.5.2).

w. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Information requests. Requests for information such as specifications, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth can be made by completing and submitting the Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support’s

Clothing and Textile Specification/Drawing/Pattern Request Form online at http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx. Requests to use equivalent materials or components should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military service.

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

6.4 First article. When first article inspection (see 4.2) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2.1.

Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product that has been previously acquired or tested by the

Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or test, should furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not submit alternate bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.5 Permanent press. For correlation purposes, the term “permanent press” cited in this document is used interchangeably with the term “wrinkle free/permanent press” cited in MIL-PRF-MCCUU.

6.6 Government intellectual property and trademark rights notification. The Government possesses intellectual property/trademark rights for the following United States Marine Corps patterns and logos (collectively referred to as “intellectual property”): the EGA logo, including the EGA logo as it appears embedded in the fabric pattern. The

Government further has title to the invention disclosed and claimed in United States Design Patent No. D491,372 issued on 15 June 2004 for “Camouflage Pattern for Sheet Material and Uniforms” and the invention disclosed and claimed in United States Patent No. 6,805,957 issued on 19 October 2004 for “Camouflage U.S. Marine Corps

Utility Uniform: Pattern, Fabric, and Design.” The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above mentioned intellectual property; therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property.

Doing so will be considered an infringement on the Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

6.7 Blouse size and body measurements. The blouse sizes and body measurements in table XIII are the size worn by the wearer before pregnancy. The dimensions are adjusted to predict expected changes during pregnancy.

This size is used to make an initial estimation of the size needed during pregnancy, and alternative sizes will be swapped to accommodate actual fit needs, if necessary.

6.8 Thread source. A known source of the thread is American and Efird (https://www.amefird.com/). Thread shade match should be confirmed prior to use in production.

6.8.1 Class 1 blouse embroidery thread. Embroidery thread color for class 1 blouse embroidery is Black 477, which is similar in shade to AMS-STD-595 color chip 37029.

6.8.2 Class 2 blouse embroidery thread. Embroidery thread color for class 2 blouse embroidery is Madeira

1957, which is similar in shade to AMS-STD-595 color chip 20068.

6.9 Button source. A known source of the buttons is Emsig Manufacturing Corporation (www.usbutton.com):

shade M3738 for the class 1 blouse and shade M2138 for the class 2 blouse.

6.10 Toxicity testing. OECD Test No. 406, Skin Sensitisation, and OECD Test No. 404, Acute Dermal

Irritation/Corrosion, adequately have been suggested to assess the requirement in 3.5.1, but other methods may be used.

6.11 Subject term (key word) listing.

Desert

Fabric

MCCUU

Permanent press

Pregnancy

Prenatal

Shirt

Woman

Woodland

Wrinkle free https://www.amefird.com/ http://www.usbutton.com/

FIGURE 1. MCMU blouse, front and back views.

FIGURE 2. MCMU blouse, inside view (front).

FIGURE 3. Detail, coat pocket (left front shown).

FIGURE 4. Detail, coat waist tab (left shown).

FIGURE 5. Detail, cuff and sleeve tab.

FORMAT

EXAMPLE

FIGURE 6. Size label inscription.

SIZE-LENGTH

NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER

1¾ inch

SMALL – SHORT

NSN: 8410-01-XXX-XXXX

1¼ inch

FORMAT

FIGURE 7. Combination label inscription.

BLOUSE IDENTIFICATION

FIBER CONTENT

U.S. PATENT NO.: (CITE)

CONTRACT NUMBER

CONTRACTOR NAME

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

MATERNITY BLOUSE, WOODLAND MARPAT CAMOUFLAGE, MCMU

50% COTTON / 50% NYLON

U.S.PATENT NO.: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

CONTRACT NO.: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

XYZ INDUSTRIES INC.

1. Washing: Machine wash using Permanent Press Cycle or hand wash using mild detergent that does NOT contain optical brighteners. Rinse completely.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

2. Drying: Tumble dry and remove immediately from dryer.

To drip dry, remove from water and place on hanger.

3. Ironing: Light ironing if needed

DO NOT STARCH OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Army – GL Navy – MC

Navy – MC (Project 8410-2024-003)

Review activities:

Army – AV, MI

Navy – CG1, NU

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT

Civil agency:

GSA – FAS

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/