DRAFT MIL-DTL-MC044 04.10.24.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 10 April 2024, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8410-2024-002)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-MC044

DRAFT

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

TROUSERS, MATERNITY, UTILITY — MARINE CORPS

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the Marine Corps Maternity Uniform (MCMU) utility trousers in a camouflage pattern (see 1.2.1).

1.2 Classification. The MCMU utility trousers are of one type, in the following classes, sizes, and lengths, as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 – Woodland Marine Corps Pattern (MARPAT)

Class 2 – Desert MARPAT

1.2.2 Schedule of sizes. The trousers are constructed in the sizes and lengths indicated in table I.

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes.

Sizes Lengths

X-Small Short Regular Long

Small Short Regular Long

Medium Short Regular Long

Large Short Regular Long

X-Large Short Regular Long

XX-Large Short Regular Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

INCH-POUND

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil

DRAFT DATED 10 APRIL 2024

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-60055 - Cloth, Knitted, Nylon/Spandex, Four-Way Stretch

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

40 CFR 799 - Identification of Specific Chemical Substance and Mixture Testing Requirements

(Copies of this document are available online at www.ecfr.gov.)

DEFENSE LOGISTICS AGENCY (DLA) TROOP SUPPORT

DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements

(Copies of this document are available online at www.dla.mil.)

MARINE CORPS SYSTEMS COMMAND

MIL-PRF-MCCUU - Uniform, Utility, Camouflage Pattern, Marine Corps

(Copies of this document are available by emailing USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies of this document are available online at https://webstore.ansi.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D76/D76M - Standard Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ file:///C:/Users/hking01/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/INetCache/Content.Outlook/BVWKHUQA/www.ecfr.gov https://www.dla.mil/ mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil https://webstore.ansi.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.4) in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The MCMU uniform trousers design (see table II) is a modified version of the United States

Marine Corps Combat Utility Uniform (MCCUU) trouser design, including a permanent press/wrinkle-free finish.

There is no insect protection treatment applied (see 3.4.1.2).

TABLE II. Trouser design.

Design Feature Detail

Belly panel The belly panel provides 360-degree belly coverage. The belly panel is constructed by sewing two plies of four-way stretch knit material

(see 3.4.2.1) together for the front and back panel. Front and back panels are then seamed together at the sides to match the side seam of the trouser legs. The panel is attached to the waistband of the trousers.

Hip pocket Hanging with welt opening

Right side (as worn)

Fused flap with concealed hook and loop closure

Cargo pockets Open at the elasticized upper pocket edge

Three pleats that face toward the back on each pocket

Bottom bellow

Flap closure secured with hook and loop fastener tape, in accordance with pattern markings, at each end

Leg bottom Hemmed

Fusible interfacing Applied to hip and cargo pocket flaps

Permanent press finish (see 6.5) Applied in garment form

3.3.1 Figures. Figures 1 through 5 are provided for informational purposes only; when inconsistencies exist between the written specification and figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.4 Material and components.

3.4.1 Basic material. When tested as specified in 4.3.1.2, the basic material for the trousers shall be the lightweight nylon/cotton twill printed with a camouflage pattern that is used on the Marine Corps Combat Utility

Uniform. Class 1 trousers shall use MIL-PRF-MCCUU, cloth type I, class 1, and the basic material for the class 2 trousers shall be MIL-PRF-MCCUU, cloth type II, class 1.

3.4.1.1 Permanent-press treatment. The garment shall be given a permanent-press treatment as specified in

MIL-PRF-MCCUU. As an exception, the leg crease locations shall be in accordance with 3.8. The treated end item shall meet the requirements for permanent press treatment in MIL-PRF-MCCUU when tested as specified in 4.3.2.2.

3.4.1.2 Insect bite protection (Permethrin treatment). As an exception to MIL-PRF-MCCUU, the MCMU trousers shall not be given an insect bite protection (Permethrin) treatment in the fabric or end-item. Insect bite protection related requirements and verifications specified in MIL-PRF-MCCUU are not applicable to the MCMU trousers.

3.4.2 Components.

3.4.2.1 Four-way stretch knit. The four-way stretch nylon/spandex knit for the belly panel shall conform to

A-A-60055. The color shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2).

3.4.2.2 Interfacing. The fusible interfacing for the pocket flaps shall conform to MIL-C-44296, type V, class 3, style B.

3.4.2.3 Thread. The thread shall conform to the requirements of table III.

TABLE III. Thread requirements.

Location Needle/Bobbin Requirement Size

(Ticket/Tex)

Seams, stitchings, and bartacks

Needle and bobbin (looper) A-A-50199, type I 1/ Ticket: 50

Tex: 36 to 50

Optional bobbin (looper) A-A-50199, type I 2/ Ticket: 70

Tex: 31 to 35

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Minimum breaking strength of 3.2 pounds.

2/ Minimum breaking strength of 2.6 pounds.

3.4.2.4 Hook and loop fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tape for the hip and cargo pocket flaps shall conform to the requirements of table IV.

TABLE IV. Hook and loop fastener tape requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Physical requirements A-A-55126, type II, class 1

Color for class 1 trousers Camo Green 483

Color for class 2 trousers Khaki 475

Length and width 1±1/16 inches wide by 1±1/16 inches long

Cut edge Finished to ensure no raveling

3.4.2.5 Elastic webbing. The elastic webbing for the cargo pocket openings shall conform to table V when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2.

TABLE V. Elastic webbing requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Physical requirements MIL-W-5664, type II, class 1

Color Black, white, or natural

Width 1-1/2 inches

Length Cut to a sufficient length to meet the cargo pocket opening (relaxed) dimension specified in 3.8

Ends Heat cut to prevent raveling

NOTE: Exception is force vs. elongation requirements specified in 3.5

3.4.2.6 Trouser labels. The trouser labels shall conform to the requirements of table VI when tested as specified in 4.3.1.2. The permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall be in accordance with the requirements of table VI. Dimensional tolerance is ±1/8 inch. A sample of each label shall be submitted to the Government prior to use (see 6.2).

TABLE VI. Trouser labels.

Label Features Requirements

1. Size label

a. Physical requirements

Style: MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 2 with the following exceptions:

(1) Dimensions: 1-3/4 inches wide by 1-1/4 inches long (excluding seam allowance)

(2) Background color:

(a) Class 1 trouser: Medium Green, Cable No. 70034, 70130, or 70131

(b) Class 2 trouser: Khaki, Cable No. 70188

b. Inscription Format: in accordance with figure 4

Font: 10 point Arial, black

Information: trouser size and length in accordance with table I 1/

c. Location Placement: inside the trousers at the waistband with the label text facing the wearer

(see figure 3)

Attachment: top of the size label is caught in the waistband stitching, centered over hip pocket

Requirement: the stitching shall not cover, obscure, or affect the readability of the text

2. Combination label (identification and instruction)

a. Physical requirements

Style: MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 15 with the following exceptions:

(1) Dimensions: the label shall be no larger than the pocket to which it is attached

(2) Background color:

(a) Class 1 trouser: Medium Green, Cable No. 70034, 70130, or 70131

(b) Class 2 trouser: Khaki, Cable No. 70188

b. Inscription Format: In accordance with figure 5:

(1) For the class1 trouser:

MATERNITY TROUSER, WOODLAND MARPAT™ CAMOUFLAGE,

MCMU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

(2) For the class 2 trouser:

MATERNITY TROUSER, DESERT MARPAT™ CAMOUFLAGE, MCMU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

c. Location Placement: backside of the right hip pocket (as worn), with the inscription facing the wearer (see figure 3).

Attachment: sewn on all four sides

Requirement: the stitching shall not cover, obscure, or affect the readability of the text

3. Lot designation label

a. Physical requirements

DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements –

Lot numbering

b. Inscription DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements –

Lot numbering

c. Location Placement: next to or above the combination label on the right hip pocket

Attachment: sewn on all four sides

Requirement: the stitching shall not cover, obscure, or affect the readability of the text

TABLE VI. Trouser labels – Continued.

Label Features Requirements

4. Barcode label

a. Physical requirements

MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17

b. Inscription MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17

c. Location Attached to the garment by a fastener

Completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified in 5.1

Location and attachment method cause no damage to the item

3.5 End item physical requirements. The finished trousers shall conform to the physical requirements specified in table VII when tested as specified in 4.3.2.2. Testing in table VII shall be performed after permanent press treatment has been applied.

TABLE VII. End item physical requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Trouser cargo pocket elastic force vs. elongation (100 cycles) 2.5 to 3.5 pounds

Toxicity 3.5.1

3.5.1 Toxicity. When specified (see 6.2), toxicity testing (see 4.3.2.4) shall be conducted to ensure the toxicity of the trousers is in accordance with guidance in DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality

Assurance Requirements. Since the MCMU is intended to be worn by pregnant individuals, it shall also meet additional requirements of 40 CFR § 799.9370 (see 6.7).

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Government patterns show size and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for the proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns.

Patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for single-needle seams and 1/2 inch for double-needle seams. The list of pattern parts and computer nomenclature is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. If the contractor notices changes in the fabric dimensions resulting from the application of the permanent-press finish, the contractor shall prepare a set of working patterns by modifying the Government patterns to accommodate for the shrinkage of the trousers during the permanent-press application process. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall submit that working pattern file to the Government for review prior to cutting. Once approved, those working patterns shall be used to cut and construct trousers to meet the dimensional requirements of 3.7. Additional notching is permitted if needed to facilitate manufacture. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited herein or governed by the Government pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the materials and the number of parts specified in table VIII.

TABLE VIII. List of trouser pattern parts.

Material Piece Name Cut Parts

Basic material (see 3.4.1) FRONT LOWER 2

BACK LOWER 2

CARGO POCKET 2

CARGO POCKET FACING 2

CARGO POCKET FLAP 2

HIP POCKET 1

HIP POCKET BEARER 1

HIP POCKET FLAP 1

Four-way stretch (see 3.4.2.1) FRONT UPPER 2

BACK UPPER 2

Interfacing (fusible) (see 3.4.2.2) CARGO POCKET FLAP FUSIBLE 2

HIP POCKET FLAP FUSIBLE 1

3.7 Trouser finished dimensions. The trousers shall conform to the finished dimensions of table IX as defined in table X, when tested as specified in 4.3.5. All measurements shall be taken with the garment laid flat on a table.

Dimensions and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE IX. Trouser finished dimensions.

Letter Measurement Length Size

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Tolerance

A Half belly panel All lengths 11 12-1/2 14 16 18 20 ±1/2

B Half hip All lengths 19 20-1/2 22 24 26 28 ±1/2

C Inseam Short 32 32 32 32 32 32 ±3/4

Regular 34 34 34 34 34 34

Long 36 36 36 36 36 36

D Outseam Short 37-1/2 37-3/4 38 38-1/2 39 39-1/2 ±3/4

Regular 39-1/2 39-3/4 40 40-1/2 41 41-1/2

Long 41-1/2 41-3/4 42 42-1/2 43 43-1/2

E Half bottom All lengths 9-1/4 9-1/2 9-3/4 10 10-1/4 10-1/2 ±1/2

D

TABLE X. Measurements for finished trouser dimensions.

Letter Measurement Method Measurement Depiction

A Half belly panel Measurement at the top edge of the belly panel from side seam to side seam with the trousers laid flat on the table.

B Half hip Measurement taken 1 inch below the belly panel attachment seam from side seam to side seam with the trousers laid flat on the table.

C Inseam Measurement from the crotch seam to the hem

D Outseam Measurement from the belly panel attachment seam to the hem

E Half bottom Measurement at the lower hem of the leg from inseam to outseam with the trousers laid flat on the table.

3.7.1 Trouser evenness. Inseams, outseams, and cargo pockets shall be compared to verify evenness within

1/2 inch (see 4.3.4.3).

D

3.8 Construction requirements. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements in table XI and the finished dimensions cited in 3.7 to maintain end item configuration as verified in 4.3.4 and 4.3.5.

TABLE XI. Construction details.

Construction Feature Requirement

1. Thread

a. Tension Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching

b. Shade Consistent thread shade on the outside of the garment

c. Breaks (all stitch types) (1) Secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/4 or 1/2 inch overlap

(2) If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type

d. Ends Trimmed to 1/4 inch or less

e. Loose threads All removed

2. Stitches and seams

a. Stitch and seam types (1) In accordance with ASTM D6193

(2) In accordance with table XII

b. Appearance Consistent, exhibiting a uniform appearance

c. Underside of seams (inside the garment)

Flat, with no protruding seam allowances or raw edges that could cause irritation, discomfort, or poor appearance

d. Stitches per inch (1) All outside visible stitching: 10 to 14 stitches per inch

(2) Overedging or prehemming: 6 to 10 stitches per inch

e. 401 or 101 stitch type Loops of the chain finish on the inside of the garment

f. Overedging Knife set to trim the loose threads and raveled edge without cutting the material

g. Seams and seam allowances Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result

h. Raw edges (1) The following shall be not allowed:

(a) Raw edges on the outside of the garment

(b) Raw edges on the inside along the double needle seams

(c) Raw edges greater than 1/8 inch on the inside of the garment

(2) Raw edges may be turned-in, turned-under, or serged to prevent raveling.

i. Beginning and ending of seams Start and finish evenly

j. Joined components Lie smooth and flat

k. Ends of seams and stitching –

301 stitch type

If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than 1/4 inch

l. Skipped stitches (301 or 401) Repaired by using 301 stitch type

m. Edge, raise, and topstitching (1) Edge and raise stitching: positioned 1/16 inch from the edge

(2) Topstitching: positioned 1/4 inch from the edge

TABLE XI. Construction details – Continued.

Construction Feature Requirement

3. Fusible interfacings (1) Applied in accordance with the supplier’s recommendation for time, temperature, and pressure

(2) Centered on the basic material component part according to the pattern

4. Trouser bartacks Size and position in accordance with specific construction features (hip pocket, cargo pockets, standard method for elasticized opening of cargo pocket) and as shown on figure 1 through figure 3

5. Hip pocket (1) Construction in accordance with figure 3

(2) Positioned according to marks on patterns

(3) Width of welt: 1/4+1/16,/-0 inch

(4) Sides and bottom edge of flap topstitched 1/4 inch from the edge

(5) Flaps set 1/2+1/8/-0 inch above top of pocket when measured from top of finished pocket to pocket flap setting seam

(Note: Positioning mark on pattern indicates required finished location of pocket flap)

(6) End of stitching: 1/2-inch chain or secured with second row of stitching

(7) 3/8±1/16-inch vertical bartack, 20 to 27 stitches per bartack, positioned at each end of hip pocket welt openings

(8) Two 1-inch-by-1-inch pieces of hook fastener tape (flap) and two

1-inch-by-1-inch pieces of loop fastener tape (pocket) positioned in accordance with marks on patterns

6. Cargo pockets (2) (1) Construction in accordance with figure 2

(2) Positioned in accordance with marks on patterns

(3) Pleats face toward the back of the trouser

(4) Elasticized cargo pocket edge in accordance with item 7 below

(5) Sides and bottom edge of flap topstitched 1/4 inch from the edge

(6) Flap finishes 1/2±1/8 inch above the top of the pocket when measured from the top of the finished pocket to pocket flap setting seam

(Note: Positioning mark on pattern indicates required finished location of pocket flap)

(7) 3/8±1/16-inch horizontal bartack, 20 to 27 stitches per bartack, positioned at each top corner of the cargo pocket flap

(8) 3/8±1/16-inch vertical bartack, 20 to 27 stitches per bartack, at the top and bottom corners of the cargo pocket

(9) 3/8±1/16-horizontal bartacks, 35 to 40 stitches per bartack, across pleat placements below lower edge of elastic on top of cargo pockets

(10) Two 1-inch-by-1-inch pieces of hook fastener tape (flap) and two

1-inch-by-1-inch pieces of loop fastener tape (pocket) positioned in accordance with marks on patterns

TABLE XI. Construction details – Continued.

Construction Feature Requirement

7. Elasticized opening of cargo pocket

(1) There are two methods for elastic as follows:

(a) Standard method – elastic encased: Each end of 1-1/4±1/16 inch-wide elastic attached to the inside of the pocket with a 1 to 1-1/8-inch vertical bartack, 52 to 56 stitches per bartack; then facing is attached to pocket forming casing.

(b) Alternate method – elastic set on: (Note: Cargo pocket facing pattern part is not used in this method) 1-1/2±1/16-inch-wide elastic attached to the pocket with two rows of double needle stitching at the top and bottom edges of the elastic. No portion of the elastic is visible on the outside of the pocket.

The elastic is visible from the inside of the pocket.

(2) The elasticized cargo pocket edge extends when the hand is inserted into the pocket yet does not distort the trouser leg when lying in the gathered/relaxed closed position. The elastic retreats to its relaxed opening position when hand is removed.

(3) Relaxed pocket opening measures 6-3/4 to 7-1/2 inches

(4) The cargo pocket opening retains its elongation/recovery characteristics

8. Belly panel Belly panel pieces are stitched face to face at top and sides then turned and stitched at the bottom to the waist seam with safety stitch. Seam allowance turned down and edgestitched on front waist only.

9. Leg crease (1) Placed on the front and back of each leg with the inseam and outseam aligned (see 3.4.1.1)

(2) Starts at a point in line with the bottom of the cargo pocket flap and ends at the bottom edge of the trouser

TABLE XII. Seam types.

Seam Placement Seam

Type Gage

Stitch

Type

1. Inseams LSc-2 3/16- to 5/16-inch gage 301 or 401

2. Standard outseams, back rise and front rise seams

LSc-2 3/16- to 5/16-inch gage 301 or 401

3. Alternate outseam, back rise and front rise seams

SSa-2 and

LSq-3

Overedge 3/16- to 5/16-inch gage, then turn and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch

516 and

301 or 401

4. Four-way stretch panels Efd-1 Joining front and back at side seams 402

Efd-1 Top edge of panel 402

SSa-2 Safety stitch 301

SSa-1 Edgestitch 301

5. Pocket flap topstitching OSf-1 1/4 inch from the edge 301

6. Hip pocket closing SSe-2 and

OSF-1 or

SSa-2

3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges 301 or

515, 516 or 519

7. Hip pocket opening SSbe-2 Welt exterior 1/4 inch, interior 7/8 to

1-1/8 inch

8 Attachment of hip pocket bearers LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the finished edge 301

9. Standard elasticized cargo pocket opening (table XI, 7.1.a) EFr-2

One row 1/16 to 1/8 inch from top pocket edge and the bottom row 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded bottom edge of facing

301 or 401

10. Alternate elasticized cargo pocket opening (table XI, 7.1.b)

SSt-4 (a) Two rows of double needle stitching, 1/4-inch gauge, at top and bottom edge of elastic

301 or 401

(b) Outer row of stitching shall be 1/16 to

1/8 inch from each edge of elastic

11. Pocket flap attachment LSbj-2 (modified)

Two rows of double needle stitching 3/16 to

1/4 inch apart

12. Label attachment LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges 301

13. Trouser leg hems EFb-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges 301

3.9 Workmanship. The treated trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this document, be uniform, and be free from the defects specified in 4.3.4.2 and those defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function. Defects shall not exceed the established Acceptance Quality Limits (AQLs), as specified (see 6.2), and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

3.9.1 Disposal. All scraps, garment seconds, irregulars, extra material, and extra garments shall be disposed of as specified in the contract (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, when required in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be examined in accordance with 4.3.1 through 4.3.5 for compliance with the appearance, color, finish, design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional, and testing requirements as specified herein.

4.2.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. The first article sample lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample size and the sample unit shall be as specified in the contract (see 6.2). The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in 4.3.1 through 4.3.5. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components, materials, and end items to determine conformance to stated requirements.

4.3.1 Materials and components (see 3.4).

4.3.1.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for verification of materials and components. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), material and component sampling shall be in accordance with table XIII. The unit for expressing lot size and sample unit shall be in accordance with the applicable reference documents. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified in this document.

TABLE XIII. Material and component sampling.

Lot Size Sample Size (# of Sample Units)

800 or less 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

4.3.1.2 Materials and components examinations and tests. To determine compliance with 3.4, the materials and components shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests referenced in table XIV unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or applicable procurement documents

(see 6.2).

TABLE XIV. Material and component verification.

Material/Component Requirement Verification Method/Reference

Basic material 3.4.1 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Belly panel 3.4.2.1 A-A-60055

Interfacing 3.4.2.2 MIL-C-44296

Thread 3.4.2.3 Per thread specification listed in table III

Hook and loop fastener tape 3.4.2.4 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Elastic webbing 3.4.2.5 MIL-W-5664 and visual

Labels 3.4.2.6 Visual, and as specified in documents referenced in table VI

NOTE: Per 3.4.1.2, the basic material shall not be treated for insect protection.

4.3.2 End item physical verification.

4.3.2.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for verification of end item physical requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of finished end items, and the sample size shall be six end items. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.3.2.2 End item physical requirements examination and tests. The finished end items, after the application of the permanent-press treatment (see 3.4.1.1), shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests referenced in table XV unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

TABLE XV. End item physical requirements verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification

Treated basic material (after garment has been treated with permanent press treatment)

Class 1 trousers 3.5 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Class 2 trousers 3.5 MIL-PRF-MCCUU

Garment physical tests (after garment has been treated with permanent press treatment)

Cargo pocket elastic force vs. elongation 3.5 4.3.2.3

Toxicity 3.5.1 4.3.2.4

4.3.2.3 Force vs. elongation of cargo pocket opening. Cargo pocket samples shall be samples from trousers that are constructed to duplicate the configuration on the finished garment where the elastic webbing is set on or within the pocket. The cargo pocket length (relaxed) shall be the finished opening length of 6 inches. The cargo pocket samples shall be laundered five times as per AATCC TM135, 3, V, iii, and stitching that sets the elastic shall stay secured through the washings. Tensile properties shall be evaluated by conducting tensile tests utilizing equipment that conforms to ASTM D76/D76M. Samples shall be conditioned in a 70 °F, 65 percent RH laboratory for a minimum of 24 hours. The specimens shall be clamped in pneumatic jaws in a relaxed state (no force on read out) when the jaws are spaced 4.0 inches apart. The cargo pocket sample shall be centered between the jaws so that the set elastic webbing is clamped into each jaw. A constant rate of extension (CRE) with a loading rate of 2.0 inches per minute shall be used. The crosshead shall be moved 1.5 inches for a total of 5.5 inches. The resulting force shall be recorded at a rate of 10 points per second. One cycle shall consist of this elongation as well as the return to the initial 4.0-inch separation position. The cycle shall be repeated 100 times for each sample. The graph shall be evaluated, and the sample shall meet the requirement when no peak is greater than 3.5 pounds or less than

2.5 pounds.

4.3.2.4 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.5.1) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required on the finishing treatments used. If dermal toxicity testing is required, it shall be performed in accordance with the contract, as specified (see 6.2).

4.3.3 In-process examination. Visual examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether material or construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified herein. Materials that contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.3.4, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished material shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.3.4.

4.3.4 Visual inspection of end items.

4.3.4.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for visual inspection of end items. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers, and the sample unit shall be one pair of trousers. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing, as specified (see 6.2), shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.3.4.2 Visual examination. The end item shall be examined for defects in color, shade, design, materials, construction, workmanship, and marking. Defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in table XVI. The inspection conditions and AQLs shall be as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE XVI. Defects.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

1. Material Defects are as specified in ASTM D3990 and include, but are not limited to, holes, slubs, cuts, tears, abrasion marks, smash, burn, drill hole, run, needle chew, missing or broken yarns, visible mends, knots, thin place, dye streaks, or misweaves affecting appearance or serviceability

2. Camouflage pattern (basic material)

a. Camouflage pattern design not equal to standard sample or drawing, incorrect color in any part of the pattern

b. Camouflage pattern repeat not equal to the standard sample or drawing

c. Skitteriness (mottles, uneven color) of pattern exceeds that shown by the standard sample

d. Grinning (off register, gap where ground shade shows through) of pattern exceeds that shown by the standard sample

e. Haloing or trapping (overlapping of colors) of pattern exceeds that shown by the standard sample

3. Material and component assembly

a. Material or component part not as specified or omitted 107

b. Distorted, full, tight, or twisted; any part of the garment caught in any unrelated stitching

c. The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch

d. Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease 202

e. Any required operation or assembly not as specified, omitted, or improperly performed

f. Component part not cut on warp or as specified 110

g. Bubbling, delaminating, wrinkling, or puckering 203

4. Shade a. Shade variation within a part or between parts 1/ 204

b. Component part color not as specified 205

5. Stitching and seams

a. Seam, seam allowance, or stitch type not as specified 111

b. Seams irregular, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, full, or twisted

c. Open seam, raw edge on outside, raw edge on inside along double needle seam, raw edge greater than 1/8 inch on the inside of the garment

d. Raw edge:

(1) On outside 113

(2) On inside:

(a) Up to 1/2 inch 207

(b) 1/2 inch or greater 114

e. Loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch 208

f. Broken stitching not repaired as specified 209

g. End of seam not secured as specified 115

TABLE XVI. Defects – Continued.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

5. Stitching and seams – Cont’d.

h. Double needle intersecting seams staggered by more than 1/4 inch 210

i. Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge (resulting in damage to cloth), needle chew, or visible mend

j. Run off for edge and raise stitching greater than 1/8 inch 212

k. Shade of thread not as specified 261

6. Bartacks a. Bartack missing or not secure 213

b. Bartack not positioned as specified 214

c. Bartack not required length or width 215

d. Number of stitches not as specified or broken stitches 216

7. Hook and loop fastener tape

a. Hook and loop out of alignment by more than 1/4 inch 217

b. Omitted or not positioned as specified 116

c. Any tape not securely attached, distorted, full, tight, frayed, damaged, or twisted

8. Labels a. Label omitted; incorrect type, size, color, or configuration;

illegible; incorrect inscription; spelling errors; improperly attached; not attached as specified; peeling

b. Barcode not readable by scanner, human-readable interpretation omitted or illegible

c. Barcode not visible on folded, packaged item 219

d. Barcode attachment causes damage to the item 119

9. Pockets and pocket flaps

a. Pocket or flap not stitched as specified, not positioned as specified, or incorrect size

b. Pocket or pocket flap twisted, curled, or puckered 221

c. Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening 222

d. Pocket flaps not centered over pocket opening; flap width extends past finished pocket edge by more than 1/8 inch on either side

e. Any pocket or pocket flap measurement not as specified 224

10. Cleanliness a. Spot or stain (more than 1 inch), odor, embedded foreign matter, or overall uncleanliness

b. More than two thread ends not trimmed to 1/2 inch or less on the outside of the garment, more than five thread ends not trimmed to

1/2 inch or less on the inside of the garment

c. Five or more loose threads of 1 inch or more not removed throughout the garment (inside and outside combined)

d. Two or more tickets not removed 227

TABLE XVI. Defects – Continued.

Part Defects Classification

Major Minor

11. Pressing a. Unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in garment 121

b. Crease not as specified, such as location, continuity, uniformity, or sharpness

c. Shiny impressions visible from a three-foot distance 123

d. Scorched, burnt, odor, or discoloration 124

e. Pressing causing damage or loss of a component 125

12. Packaging Any end item not packaged in accordance with 5.1 228

13. Leg hem a. Hem twisted, wavy, omitted, or not as specified 253

b. Hem width of leg bottom less than 1/2 inch or more than 3/4 inch

(Note: hem measurement taken from top to bottom fold)

14. Cargo pockets a. Cargo pocket bellow exposed beyond edge of pocket by more than

1/8 inch

b. Cargo pockets out of horizontal alignment by more than 1/2 inch 137

c. Forward bottom corner of flap not bartacked down 255

d. Cargo pocket bartack not stitched through both flap and pocket 256

15. Cargo pocket elastic

a. Elasticized opening less than 6-3/4 inches or more than

7-1/2 inches in width

b. Elastic omitted; twisted; not positioned as specified; or not attached as specified

c. Setting distorts trouser leg 139

d. Standard method: not caught in bartack 140

e. Does not expand/retract to relaxed condition as specified 258

16.Trouser evenness2/ a. Inseam or outseam lengths vary by more than 1/2 inch from leg to leg

b. Bottom openings vary by more than 1/2 inch in half width from leg to leg

c. Evenness of length between inseam and outseam on the same leg varies by more than 1/2 inch

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Parts suspected of being off shade shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against a background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is discernable under these examination conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

4.3.4.3 Evenness examination. Table XVII provides guidance regarding methods of measurement to determine evenness between garment parts such as inseams, outseams, and pocket alignment. Evenness can be determined by comparing measurements of companion parts or by aligning parts and measuring the difference in lengths as described in table XVII. Evenness comparisons shall be conducted by extending the portions of the garments in parallel between two hands without stretching and then inspecting for evenness. Where evenness defects are found, the garments shall be laid flat on a measuring surface and the difference in lengths recorded.

TABLE XVII. Trouser evenness verification.

Location Description

Trouser inseam Align trouser leg inseams, starting from the center of the crotch seam along the inseam down to the trouser hem edge. The aligned trouser inseams shall be inspected for evenness of the trouser length.

Trouser outseam Align both trouser leg outseams by folding trousers in half widthwise following the crease of the legs and aligning the top of the trouser. The aligned trouser outseams shall be inspected for evenness of the trouser length.

Cargo pocket alignment Align both trouser leg outseams by folding trousers in half widthwise following the crease of the legs and aligning the top of the trouser. The trousers shall be inspected for cargo pocket alignment.

Bottom opening Align both trouser leg inseams and outseams at the bottom hem by folding trousers in half widthwise following the crease of the legs and aligning the top of the trouser. The folded trousers shall be turned vertically to enable alignment of the bottom opening widths for comparison. The aligned trouser leg bottoms shall be inspected for bottom opening width.

4.3.5 Dimensional examination of end items.

4.3.5.1 Sampling and acceptance criteria for dimensional examination of end items. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers, and the sample unit shall be one pair of trousers. The presence of excessive defects, as specified (see 6.2), shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.3.5.2 Dimensional examination. The end item shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table IX when measured as specified in table X. Any measurement deviating from dimensions and tolerances specified shall be scored as a measurement defect. The inspection conditions and the AQL shall be as specified (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are a component of the MCMU intended for wear by female military personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Classes, sizes, and lengths required (see 1.2).

c. National stock numbers (NSN).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1).

e. When conformance inspection is required (see 3.1.2).

f. Belly panel shade required (see 3.4.2.1).

g. When Government approval of the label inscription is required (see 3.4.2.6).

h. Toxicity requirements and testing (see 3.5.1 and 4.3.2.4).

i. Applicable Government patterns (see 3.6).

j. When Government approval of the contractor’s working files is required (see 3.6).

k. AQLs (see 3.9, 4.3.4.2, and 4.3.5.2).

l. Disposal of class 1 and class 2 (see 3.9.1.

m. First article sampling and acceptance criteria, including sample size and sample unit (see 4.2.1).

n. Conformance inspection criteria (see 4.3).

o. Material and component sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.1.1).

p. Material and component examinations and tests (see 4.3.1.2).

q. End item physical requirements sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.2.1).

r. End item physical requirements examination and tests (see 4.3.2.2).

s. Visual examination sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.4.1).

t. Visual inspection conditions and AQLs (see 4.3.4.2).

u. Dimensional examination sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.5.1).

v. Dimensional examination inspection conditions and AQLs (see 4.3.5.2).

w. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Information requests. Requests for information such as specifications, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth can be made by completing and submitting the Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support’s

Clothing and Textile Specification/Drawing/Pattern Request Form online at www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx. Requests to use equivalent materials or components should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military service.

6.4 First article. When first article inspection (see 4.2) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2.1.

Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product that has been previously acquired or tested by the

Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or test, should furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not submit alternate bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.5 Permanent press. For correlation purposes, the term “permanent press” cited in this document is used interchangeably with the term “wrinkle free/permanent press” cited in MIL-PRF-MCCUU.

6.6 Government intellectual property and trademark rights notification. The Government possesses intellectual property/trademark rights for the following United States Marine Corps patterns and logos (collectively referred to as “intellectual property”): the EGA logo, including the EGA logo as it appears embedded in the fabric pattern. The

Government further has title to the invention disclosed and claimed in United States Design Patent No. D491,372 issued on 15 June 2004 for “Camouflage Pattern for Sheet Material and Uniforms” and the invention disclosed and claimed in United States Patent No. 6,805,957 issued on 19 October 2004 for “Camouflage U.S. Marine Corps

Utility Uniform: Pattern, Fabric, and Design.” The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above mentioned intellectual property; therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property.

Doing so will be considered an infringement on the Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

file:///C:/Users/hking01/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/INetCache/Content.Outlook/BVWKHUQA/www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

6.7 Toxicity testing. OECD Test No. 406, Skin Sensitisation, and OECD Test No. 404, Acute Dermal

Irritation/Corrosion, adequately are suggested to assess the requirement in 3.5.1, but other methods may be used.

6.8 Subject term (key word) listing.

Belly panel

Desert

Four-way stretch

MCCUU

Permanent press

Pregnancy

Prenatal

Slacks

Woman

Woodland

Wrinkle free

FRONT BACK

FIGURE 1. MCMU trousers, front and back views.

FIGURE 2. Cargo pocket construction.

INSIDE VIEW OUTSIDE VIEW

FIGURE 3. Hip pocket inside and outside view.

FORMAT

EXAMPLE

FIGURE 4. Size label inscription.

SIZE-LENGTH

NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER

1¾ inch

SMALL – SHORT

NSN: 8410-01-XXX-XXXX

1¼ inch

FIGURE 5. Combination label inscription.

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Army – GL Navy – MC

Navy – MC (Project 8410-2024-002)

Review activities:

Army – AS, AV, MI

Navy – CG1, NU

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT

Civil agency:

GSA – FAS

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/