DRAFT MIL-DTL-MC031 12.03.22.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 3 December 2022, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8410-2023-001)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil.

Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-MC031

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

PD-FDBCE

16 October 2017

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, WOMAN’S – POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE, BLUE, ENLISTED

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers a blue, polyester/wool gabardine woman’s dress coat worn by female enlisted personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

1.2 Classification. The coat is of one type in the sizes and lengths indicated in table I, as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes and lengths.

Lengths Extra Short Short Regular Long Extra Long

Sizes X0 X0 X0 X0 X0

2 2 2 2 2

4 4 4 4 4

6 6 6 6 6

8 8 8 8 8

10 10 10 10 10

12 12 12 12 12

14 14 14 14 14

16 16 16 16 16

18 18 18 18 18

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil

DRAFT DATED 3 DECEMBER 2022

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular

MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-15064 - Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts

MIL-DTL-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling for Women’s Uniform Clothing

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning, Perchloroethylene

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven

Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics

(Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

SAE INTERNATIONAL

AMS-STD-595 - Colors Used in Government Procurement

AMS-STD-595/31348 - Scarlet 2501

AMS-STD-595/35040 - Dark Blue 2312

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.sae.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The coat is in the United States Marine Corps design described in table II and as shown on figures 1 through 7.

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.sae.org/

TABLE II. Coat design.

Design Feature Detail

Body Fitted

Six-panel front

Four-panel back

Fully lined

Front closure Single-breasted

Six insignia buttons (buttonholes positioned on the right front and buttons sewn on the left front)

Hook and loop fastener tape closure at the waist (hook on the left front and loop on the right facing)

Collar Stand-up collar

Closed by hook and eye closure

Eyelet and eyelet covering piece at each end of collar

Sleeves Long sleeves

Ornamental sleeve pieces with insignia buttons

Fully lined

Shoulder straps Stitched down shoulder straps with insignia buttons

Vent Center back vent

Belt loops Positioned on each side seam at the waist

Piping Top and bottom edges of the collar

Right front

Bottom edges

Shoulder strap edges

Top, bottom, and back edges of the ornamental sleeve pieces

3.4 Materials and components.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat, including the binding for the upper edge of the collar interfacing, shall be a polyester/wool gabardine, 6.8-ounce-per-square-yard cloth, dark blue shade 2312

(AMS-STD-595/35040), conforming to MIL-DTL-10176, type II, class 12 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat body, sleeves, collar, and vent and for the collar eyelet covers shall be an acetate lining material, twill, or satin (alternate) weave, conforming to the requirements specified in table III below when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE III. Lining requirements.

Characteristic Twill Requirement Satin Requirement

Shade Good match to basic material

Fiber identification Acetate

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp 120 288

Filling 68 68

Weight, ounces per square yard (minimum) 3.8 4.9

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Dry: Warp 74 83

Dry: Filling 49 117

Wet: Warp 54 54

Wet: Filling 34 77

Colorfastness to perspiration, rating (minimum)

(see 6.7)

Color change 5 5

Staining on cotton 3.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to drycleaning, rating (minimum)

(see 6.7)

Color change 4.5 5

Staining on cotton 4.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to crocking, rating (minimum)

(see 6.7)

4.5 4.5

Dimensional stability to drycleaning, percent

(maximum)

Individual sample unit ±3.5 ±3.5

Lot average ±3.0 ±3.0

3.4.3 Stay pieces. The material for the stay pieces for the armhole and shoulder seams shall be a black polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The requirement for seam efficiency in A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.4.4 Fusible interfacings. The fusible interfacings shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.4.4.1 Front and side panels, center back neck, and center vent. The fusible interfacing for the front and side panels, center back neck, and center vent shall be a weft inserted knit cloth conforming to MIL-C-44296, type III, class 1, style B when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color shall be black or charcoal grey.

3.4.4.2 Front facings, shoulder straps, ornamental sleeve pieces, top sleeves, and under sleeves. The fusible interfacing for the front facings, shoulder straps, ornamental sleeve pieces, top sleeves, and under sleeves shall be a black or charcoal grey non-woven fusible interfacing conforming to MIL-C-44296, type V or VI, class 1, style A or

B or type VIII, class 1, style A when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.5 Floating chest piece. As specified in 3.6, the chest piece will be constructed from the materials specified in 3.4.5.1 through 3.4.5.3, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The finished chest piece should resemble the item illustrated on figure 1.

3.4.5.1 Haircloth. The haircloth (see 6.4) for the chest piece, shoulder piece, wedge piece, and neck piece shall conform to the requirements of MIL-C-15065 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.5.2 Chest piece padding. The padding for the chest piece shall be a polyester, needle punched, non-woven material conforming to the requirements specified in table IV, when tested as specified in 4.4.1 and 4.4.1.1.

TABLE IV. Chest piece padding requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber identification 100% polyester

Color Unbleached

Construction Needle punched non-woven

Weight (minimum) 3.4 ounces per square yard

Thickness (minimum)

Initial 0.055 inch

After 3 drycleanings and steam pressings 0.065 inch

Breaking strength (minimum)

Machine direction 20 pounds

Cross direction 40 pounds

Shrinkage after 3 drycleanings and steam pressings (maximum)

Machine direction 4.0%

Cross direction 2.5%

3.4.5.3 Buttonhole stand. The material for the buttonhole stand shall be a black polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The requirement for seam efficiency of A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.4.6 Collar. The collar, as depicted on figure 2, will be constructed in accordance with the requirements stated in operations 6 through 11 and operations 52 through 53 of 3.7.

3.4.6.1 Collar padding. The material for padding the collar shall be a polyester, needle punched non-woven material conforming to the requirements specified in table V when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE V. Collar padding requirements.

Fiber identification 100 percent polyester

Construction Needle punched non-woven

Weight, ounces per square yard

4.2 to 5.0

3.4.6.2 Collar interfacing. The material for the interfacing of the collar shall be a 2-ply cotton buckram laminated with a starch finish, and natural in color conforming to A-A-59992, type III, class 7 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.6.3 Collar eyelet reinforcement pieces and binding for the lower edge of the collar interfacing. The material for the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces and for binding the lower edge of the collar interfacing shall be a black polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The requirement for seam efficiency in A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.4.6.4 Collar closure hook and eye. A known source for a hook and eye closure that has been found to be acceptable for use on the end item is provided in 6.5.

TABLE VI. Collar closure hook and eye requirements.

Material Cartridge Brass 70/30 (UNS Alloy C27000)

Design Figure 3

Dimensions Figure 3

Color/finish Dull flat black

Coating type Lacquer, clear, commercial grade

Coating application Continuous, level, and adherent

Completely coating the hook and eye

Free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions

Coating tackiness No tackiness

Attachment holes Completely open, free of any lacquer or black finish

Edges and surfaces Clean and smooth

Free from burrs and tool marks

No sharp edges or roughness

3.4.7 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to MIL-DTL-15064, type IV when tested as specified in 4.4.1. As an option, the sleeve head may be provided on a continuous roll and cut to the required length.

3.4.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to MIL-DTL-15064, type III, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.9 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be made from a black, cotton, tubular, flat braid, 1/8- to 3/16-inch wide, with a minimum breaking strength of 50 pounds conforming to MIL-DTL-371, type VIII, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.10 Armhole shield binding. The binding for the armhole shields shall be bias cut from the lining material specified in 3.4.2 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The cut binding material shall be 3/4 to 1 inch wide and the edges shall be finished to prevent unravelling.

3.4.11 Scarlet piping. The material used for the piping on the following areas shall be a wool broadcloth, matching scarlet shade 2501 (AMS-STD-595/31348), conforming to MIL-DTL-29405, type I when tested as specified in 4.4.1:

a. The shoulder straps

b. The upper and lower edges of the collar

c. The upper, lower, and back edges of the ornamental sleeve pieces

d. The left bottom edge of the coat

e. The right bottom and right front edges of the coat

3.4.12 Tapes.

3.4.12.1 Woven tape. The armholes shall be taped with a 1/4-inch wide, plain weave, unbleached cotton tape conforming to A-A-52071, type II, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Or as an alternate, the tape shall be a

3/16-inch wide herringbone tape conforming to A-A-52071, with 58 picks per inch when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.12.2 Fusible tape. The fusible tape used to join the left facing to the left front shall conform to

MIL-C-44296, type I, class 1, style B when tested as specified in 4.4.1, except it shall be cut in the filling (cross-cut) direction. The fusible tape shall be 5/8 inch wide and black or charcoal color with a thermoplastic polyamide resin.

3.4.13 Threads. The threads used in the construction of the coat shall conform to the requirements of the thread references cited in table VII when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Threads shall match the shade requirements specified in table VII.

TABLE VII. Thread requirements.

Use

(Seam Type) Description Document

Ticket No.

(Tex) Ply Shade

Seaming (301) Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Seaming (401) Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8) 70 (31-35) for looper 2

Overedging

(504 and 505)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

70 (31-35) for needle and looper

2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Raise, edge, and topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Buttonholes Nylon, twisted, soft finish

A-A-59826, type I, class A

Government Letter

Size B (45-46)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8) Government Letter

Size F (90-101)

3 or 4

Buttonhole reinforcement

Cotton gimp A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish

8 (210) Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Buttons Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

30 (61-70) 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Eyelets Nylon, twisted, soft finish

A-A-59826, type I, class A

Government Letter

Size B (45-46)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Felling Nylon, tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish

A-A-59826, type VI

Government Letter

Size O (24)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Felling

(alternate)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

40 (46-60) 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

TABLE VII. Thread requirements – Continued.

Use

(Seam Type) Description Document

Ticket No.

(Tex) Ply Shade

Machine tacking armholes

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

30 (61-70) 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8)

Tacking (103 or hand)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) or 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.4.1 and 6.8) 70 (31-35) 2

Basting Commercial grade cotton, cotton-covered polyester core, nylon, or monofilament synthetic

White or clear

FOOTNOTE:

1/ The thread shall be handwaxed with a U.S.-made beeswax for a smooth, dressed surface to facilitate hand-sewing.

3.4.13.1 Colorfastness. All threads, except thread used for basting, shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration, and drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.14 Buttons.

3.4.14.1 Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, 24-karat gold plated, conforming to

MIL-B-3461, type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The buttons for the coat front shall be 40-line and the buttons for the ornamental sleeve pieces and the shoulder straps shall be 27-line.

3.4.14.2 Split pin or ring toggles. Split pin or ring toggles for securing buttons to ornamental sleeve pieces and shoulders shall conform to MIL-B-3461when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.14.3 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for the ornamental sleeve piece and shoulder strap buttons shall be punched from cotton buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color conforming to

A-A-59992, type III class 7 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.15 Hook and loop fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tape for securing the waist shall conform to

A-A-55126, type I, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Colorfastness to laundering shall not apply. The color shall be black.

3.4.16 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label, a separate size label, and a separate barcode label/tag conforming to the requirements below. As an alternate to the material specified in

MIL-DTL-32075 for the identification/instruction label and the size label, the label material may be a 100-percent polyester-coated tape (see 6.6).

3.4.16.1 Identification/instruction label. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 15 including the colorfastness to drycleaning requirement, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

COAT, WOMAN’S: POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE, BLUE, ENLISTED

FIBER CONTENT: 55% Polyester/45% Wool (Example)

CONTRACT NO: SPO100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

LOT NO:

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

TO KEEP YOUR COAT LOOKING SMART,

INSIST ON IT BEING PROPERLY PRESSED

PRESSING INSTRUCTIONS:

1. AVOID PRESSING DRY OR WITH TOO HOT AN IRON.

2. REMOVE ALL GLOSS FROM EDGES AND SEAMS BY PRESSING

WITH A DAMP CLOTH.

3. CREASE ONLY THE LOWER THREE-FOURTHS OF SLEEVES.

3.4.16.2 Size label. Each coat shall have a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 2 including the colorfastness to drycleaning requirement, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the label shall be white. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984, and the size label shall bear the following body dimensions. The height range shall be in accordance with 3.4.16.2.1.

EXAMPLE SIZE CODE 12R

BUST CIRC 38"

HIP CIRC 40½"

HEIGHT 63½– 67"

NSN 8410-XX-XXX-XXXX

Note: The Marine Corps body measurements (bust and hip circumference) for each size label are contained in

MIL-STD-984, and are not to be confused with the finished dimensions of the coat contained in 3.8 of this specification.

3.4.16.2.1 Height. The information in table VIII shall be cited for height, as appropriate.

TABLE VIII. Height information.

Height Abbreviation Inscription

Extra short XS Less than 60 inches (XS)

Short S 60 to 63-1/2 (S)

Regular R 63-1/2 to 67 (R)

Long L 67 to 70-1/2 (L)

Extra long XL More than 70-1/2 inches (XL)

3.4.16.3 Barcode label/tag. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper label/tag conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The paper used for the tag shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tag shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tag shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The barcoding element shall be a

13-digit national stock number (NSN) and the appropriate 12-digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned to the

NSN by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified herein. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5 Figures. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern. The floating chest piece (see 3.4.5) should resemble the construction shown on figure 1. The collar

(see 3.4.6) should resemble the construction shown on figure 2. The collar closure hook and eye (see 3.4.6.4) should resemble the construction shown on figure 3. All figures are furnished for information purposes only.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government as specified (see 6.2). Government patterns show size, seam allowances, and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns. The list of pattern parts in table IX is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall only be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching, if needed to facilitate manufacture for use during construction may be performed on the working patterns. Minor modifications may be made where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment, provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the document or those governed by the standard pattern.

Component parts shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the number of parts specified in table IX. Requirements for cutting component parts that are not included in the table IX are included in 3.7.

TABLE IX. Pattern parts.

Material Piece Name Cut Parts

Basic material (see 3.4.1) Right front 1/ 1

Left front 1/ 1

Side front 2

Side front dart 2

Side back 2

Center back 2

Right front facing 1/ 1

Left front facing 1/ 1

Top sleeve 2

Under sleeve 2

Outer collar 1

Armhole shield 2

Shoulder strap 2

Ornamental sleeve piece 2

Lining (see 3.4.2) Front lining 2

Right back lining 1

Left back lining 1

Side back lining 2

Top sleeve lining 2

Under sleeve lining 2

Collar lining 1

Collar eyelet cover lining 2

Fusible interfacing (front and side panels, center back neck, and center vent): Woven or weft knit (see 3.4.4.1)

Right front fusing 1

Left front fusing 1

Side front fusing 2

Side front dart fusing 2

Center back neck fusing 2

Center vent fusing 2

3.7 Construction requirements. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements in table X and table XI and the finished dimensions cited in 3.8 to maintain end item configuration as verified in 4.4.3 and 4.4.4. Following the exact sequence of operations of table XI is not required, provided the finished coat meets the finished form, fit, and function requirements as those produced by following the sequence of operations specified in table XI. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of the operation, any one of the specified methods may be used.

TABLE IX. Pattern parts – Continued.

Material Piece Name Cut Parts

Fusible interfacing (front facings, shoulder straps, ornamental sleeve piece, and top and under sleeve): Non-woven

(see 3.4.4.2)

Right front facing fusing 1

Left front facing fusing 1

Shoulder strap fusing 2

Ornamental sleeve piece fusing

Top sleeve fusing 2

Under sleeve fusing 2

Collar interfacing (see 3.4.6.2) Collar interfacing 1

Floating chest piece/haircloth (see 3.4.5.1) Chest piece 2

Shoulder piece 2

Wedge piece 2

Neck piece 2

Floating chest piece/chest piece padding (see 3.4.5.2) Chest padding 2

Floating chest piece/buttonhole stand (see 3.4.5.3) Buttonhole stand 2

Templates Left vent marker --

Ornamental sleeve piece marker

Side seam belt loop marker --

Shoulder strap placement marker

Shoulder strap finished shaper

Ornamental sleeve piece finished shaper

FOOTNOTE:

1/ As an option, the fronts and facings may be cut as pairs. When cut as a pair, the manufacturer should dress the right side.

TABLE X. Construction requirements.

Construction Feature Requirement

1. Thread

a. Type and size (1) See table VII.

b. Tension (1) Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching.

c. Shade on outside of coat (1) Consistent thread shade on the outside of the coat.

Multiple shades of thread on the outside of the coat are not allowed.

d. Breaks (all stitch types) (1) Secured by stitching back of the break not less than

1/2 inch.

(2) If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type.

2. Stitches and Seams

a. Stitches and seam types (1) ASTM D6193.

b. Stitches per inch (1) See table XI.

c. Overedging (1) Knife set to trim loose threads and raveled edge without cutting the material.

d. Seams and seam allowances (1) Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result.

e. Edgestitching (1) 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge unless otherwise specified see

(table XI).

f. Beginning and ending of seams (1) Start and finish evenly.

g. Joined components (1) Lie flat.

h. Position of the chain of 401 and 101 stitch types

(1) When used, loops of the chain finish on the inside of the coat.

i. Ends of seams and stitching - 301 stitch type (1) If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than 1/4 inch.

(2) If the end of a continuous line of stitching (except label):

overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

(3) If label stitching: overlapped not less than 3 stitches.

j. Skipped stitches (301 or 401) (1) Repaired by using 301 stitch type.

k. Additional bastings (1) Acceptable provided the basting thread does not show on the outside of the finished item.

3. Pressing (1) All pressing operations referenced in table X performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine commercially intended for tailored coats

(2) A left and right chest press, designed specifically for finish pressing, is required.

(3) Any additional underpressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible.

4. Buttonholes (1) Clean cut.

(2) Stitching securely caught in fabric.

(3) Gimp positioned to the underside.

TABLE XI. Table of operations.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

1. CUT AND SHADE MARK

a. Cut the component parts (listed in 3.6) as indicated on the patterns and in the material specified. Unless otherwise specified on the pattern, the directional line is with the warp direction of the cloth. Additional cutting requirements are provided in operations 1.b, 1.d, and 1.f through

1.l for those components not controlled by a furnished pattern piece.

b. Cut all basic material parts (see 3.4.1) of the coat from one piece of basic material, except the belt loops, armhole shields, and front facings, which may be cut from ends. Cut the binding for the upper edge of the collar interfacing from the same piece of basic material as the outer collar, 1 inch wide and of sufficient length to comply with operation 7.

The belt loops are cut 1 inch wide of sufficient length to comply with operations 4 and 26. Parts cut from ends are a good shade match to the main assembly. When armhole shields are cut from ends, the shields match each other for shade.

c. Cut the lining (see 3.4.2) for the fronts, backs, and collar from one piece of lining material. All other lining components may be cut from ends. All sleeve lining parts (two top and two under) match in shade.

d. Cut the two armhole and two shoulder stay pieces (see 3.4.3) on the bias, 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide and 4±1/4 inches long.

e. Cut the fusible interfacings (see 3.4.4.1 and 3.4.4.2) in accordance with the directional lines on the patterns.

f. Cut the collar padding (see 3.4.6.1) 1-1/4 inches wide and sufficiently long to fold over the ends of the interfacing for each collar size.

g. Cut the binding for the lower edge of the collar interfacing

(see 3.4.6.3) on the bias, 1 inch wide and of sufficient length to comply with operation 7.

h. Cut the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces (see 3.4.6.3) not less than

2 inches long and 1-3/4 inches wide.

i. Cut the braid for the hanger loop (see 3.4.9) of sufficient length to comply with the finished length (see operation 44).

j. Cut the binding for the armhole shields from the bias binding

(see 3.4.10), 3/4 to 1 inch wide.

k. Cut the scarlet piping (see 3.4.11) on the straight of the cloth. The piping is cut 5/8 inch wide for the shoulder straps, collar, and ornamental sleeve pieces, and 1-1/8 inches wide for the left bottom and right bottom/front edges of the coat.

l. Punch the reinforcement discs (see 3.4.14.3) 7/8 inch wide (diameter) with a 1/8-inch hole at the center.

m. Dress the left vent in accordance with the left vent marker.

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

n. The component parts of the coat and lining cut from one piece of basic material and lining material, respectively, and the sleeve linings cut from ends are marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. The numbering does not show on the outside of the garment or on the lining and, whenever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed. The following methods are not allowed: corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on shade tickets, adhesive type tickets that discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of the tickets.

2. REPLACE DEFECTIVE OR DAMAGED PARTS

a. During cutting, replace all parts containing defects such as hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, open place, loose yarn, snagged thread, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, missing yarn, broken yarn, thin place, shade bar, or woven in waste.

b. During the manufacturing process, replace all parts damaged by needle chews, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, or burns.

3. APPLY FUSIBLE INTERFACING

a. Position the fusible onto the related component part (see table IX for listing), set back 1/8 inch from edges, and fuse together in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommendations for time, temperature, and pressure.

b. The fused lots are cool to the touch prior to tying into bundles.

4. MAKE BELT LOOPS

a. Finished appearance: each belt loop finishes 1/2±1/8 inch wide and finishes smooth and flat.

b. Fold the sides of the strip lengthwise towards the center, abutting the raw edges together with a covering stitch. Each row of stitching is uniformly 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

406 EFh-1 10-14

c. Cut each loop for the left and right side 3-1/2±1/8 inches long.

5. MAKE SHOULDER STRAPS

a. Finished appearance: the shoulder strap finishes smooth, flat, and uniform in appearance and is in accordance with the shoulder strap finished shaper (including piping). The scarlet piping is uniformly stitched to the shoulder strap without twists, gather, puckers, or pleats and is uniformly worked out to the edges. In the finished coat, the piping finished 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide.

b. The shoulder strap consists of one ply of basic material interfaced with fusible, and it is piped with scarlet broadcloth.

c. Seam a 5/8-inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the shoulder strap, along front and back edges and around collar end, 1/8 inch from edges.

OR

301 SSe-2(a) 10-14

d. Fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edges, and stitch to the edge of the shoulder strap, along the front, back, and collar end, 1/8 inch from the edges.

301 SSav-2(a) 10-14

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

e. Turn back the shoulder strap and scarlet piping, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the ends of the shoulder strap. Topstitch the shoulder strap uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping through all plies. Clip the excess material at the collar end so that the shoulder strap lies flat.

301 BSm-2(b)

(modified)

10-14

f. Press the shoulder strap smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

6. MAKE COLLAR EYELET COVERS

a. Finished appearance: the collar eyelet cover finishes 1-3/4±1/8 inches wide.

b. Turn under the side edges of the cover and stitch 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching.

301 EFa-1 10-14

c. Fold each cover in half across the width and seam 1/16 inch from the folded side edges. Continue stitching across the folded end.

301 SSc-1

(side edge) and OSf-1

(folded end)

10-14

7. ASSEMBLE COLLAR INTERFACING

a. Finished appearance: the edges of the upper and lower binding of the collar interfacing are uniformly stitched 1/4 inch from the folded edges and are not tight or full. The interfacing and both edges of each binding are securely caught in the binding stitching. The interfacing finishes with the collar eyelet reinforcement piece positioned on the inside and the felt padding positioned on the outside of the interfacing. The collar eyelet covers are positioned so that in the finished collar, the covers are centered over the eyelets.

b. Position the collar eyelet reinforcement piece at each end of the collar interfacing. Using a 1-inch wide strip of the basic material

(see operation 1.b), bind the upper edge of the collar interfacing, stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Using a 1-inch wide strip of polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave material

(see operation 1.g), bind the lower edge of the collar interfacing, stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. The collar eyelet reinforcement pieces are caught in the binding stitching.

301 BSa-1 10-14

c. Center the strip of the collar padding (see operation 1.f) on the outside of the collar interfacing with the ends of the padding sufficiently long to fold over each end of the interfacing. Stitch the padding to the interfacing from end to end, 1/8 inch from top and bottom edges of the padding.

301 SSau-2 10-14

d. Lap the raw edge of the collar eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch on the top inside edge of the collar interfacing. Stitch the cover to the interfacing

1/4 inch from the raw edge of the cover.

301 LSa-1 10-14

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

8. ATTACH SCARLET PIPING TO OUTER PLY OF COLLAR

a. Finished appearance: the scarlet piping extends the full length of the collar along the upper and lower edges of the outer ply. The piping is uniformly stitched to the collar without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and is uniformly worked out to the edges. In the finished coat, the piping finishes 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide.

b. Seam a 5/8 inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the outer ply 1/8 inch from the upper and lower edges.

301 SSe-2 10-14

c. Turn back the piping and outer ply at the upper and lower edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the edge of the outer ply. Topstitch the outer ply uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edges of the piping.

OR

301 BSm-2(b)

(modified, each edge)

10-14

d. As an alternate to operation 8.c, fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edges, and seam as specified in operation 8.b. Turn the edge of the collar back and stitch through the outer ply 1/16 inch from the edge, leaving the folded edge of the slightly offset folded edge of the scarlet piping extending 1/8 inch beyond the edge of the outer ply.

301 SSav-2(a) and

BSm-2(b)

(modified, each edge)

10-14

9. ASSEMBLE COLLAR

a. Finished appearance: the collar is assembled without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats. In the finished collar, the ends of the lining extend approximately 1/2 inch beyond the right end of the collar, and approximately 2-1/2 inches beyond the left end of the collar for the extension tab. The eyelet covers are not caught in the eyelet operation.

b. Position the outer ply of the collar on the outside of the interfacing assembly with the binding for the upper edge of the collar interfacing extending uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the scarlet piping on the top edge of the outer ply. The binding for the lower edge of the collar interfacing is not exposed beyond the scarlet piping on the bottom edge of the collar.

c. Seam the outer ply and interfacing assembly together with a row of stitches as close as possible to, but not on top of, the topstitching at the top and bottom edges of the outer ply.

301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Lap the top inside edge of the collar assembly over the top raw edge of the collar lining approximately 1/2 inch, with the lining face up.

Seam the collar to the lining with a row of stitches as close as possible to, but not on top of, the rows of stitches at the upper edge of the collar.

The stitching extends from center to center of the collar eyelet covers.

301 Lsa-1 10-14

e. Smoothly fold the ends of the collar padding and the outer ply to the inside over the ends of the interfacing assembly and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

f. Turn collar lining at the seam to the inside of the collar and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

10. MAKE COLLAR EXTENSION TAB

a. Finished appearance: the collar extension tab extends 3/4 to 1 inch beyond the folded edge of the left end of the collar.

b. Turn the top and bottom edges and the end of the collar lining at the left end of the collar to the inside of the lining and baste the turned portion along the top, front, and bottom edges to the body of the lining, forming the collar extension tab.

Hand SSc-1 (top and bottom)

OSf-1

(front)

2-3

c. Stitch the collar extension tab 1/16 inch from the top, front, and bottom edges and continue the stitching at the back of tab to the top row, forming a 1-3/8- to 1-1/2-inch wide box stitch.

301 SSc-1 (top and bottom)

OSf-1

(front)SSa-1

(back)

10-14

11. FELL ENDS OF OUTER PLY TO COLLAR AND MAKE EYELETS

a. Finished appearance: the upper and lower edges at each end of the outer ply are not visible on the outside of the finished collar.

b. Tack the ends of the outer ply to the reinforcement pieces and to the collar eyelet covers with overcast stitching.

Hand --- 2-3

c. Make an eyelet through all plies of the collar and lining midway

±1/16 inch between outer edges of the scarlet piping and 1-1/2±1/8 inches from each finished end of the collar. The finished eyelet opening finishes 1/8 inch wide.

Eyelet --- 20

(minimum)

12. MAKE ORNAMENTAL SLEEVE PIECES

a. Finished appearance: the ornamental sleeve pieces finish smooth and flat and are uniform in appearance, and the shape is in accordance with the ornamental sleeve piece finished shaper (including piping). The scarlet piping is uniformly stitched to the ornamental sleeve piece without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and is uniformly worked out to the edges. In the finished coat, the piping finishes 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide.

b. The ornamental sleeve piece consists of one ply of basic material interfaced with fusible, and it is piped with scarlet broadcloth.

c. Seam a 5/8-inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the ornamental sleeve piece 1/8 inch from the top, the scalloped side, and the bottom edges.

OR

301 SSe-2(a) 10-14

d. As an alternate to operation 12.c, fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edge and seam to edges as above.

301 SSav-2(a) 10-14

e. Turn back the ornamental sleeve piece and the scarlet piping at the seamed edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the edges of the piece. Notch the excess scarlet material at the top and lower points of the piece in order to reduce bulk. Topstitch the ornamental sleeve piece uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping through all plies.

301 BSm-2(b)

(modified)

10-14

f. Press the ornamental sleeve piece smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

g. Mark the ornamental sleeve piece for the location of insignia buttons as indicated by the marks on the pattern. Assemble the ornamental sleeve pieces in pairs.

h. Punch a hole though the ornamental sleeve piece at each mark for attaching the three buttons.

i. Insert the shanks of the 27-line insignia buttons through the punched holes of each ornamental sleeve piece and reinforcement disc and secure each button to the ornamental sleeve piece with a metal split pin or ring toggle. The reinforcement disc and toggle finish on the underside of the ornamental sleeve piece.

13. ASSEMBLE SLEEVES AND ATTACH ORNAMENTAL SLEEVE PIECES

a. Finished appearance: the ornamental sleeve piece is uniformly stitched to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats; finishes smooth and flat; and has no raw edges. The folded front edge of the piece is not topstitched.

b. Position the top and under sleeve with the notches matching and join at the forearm with a 3/8-inch seam.

301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Spread the seam open and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

d. Mark the sleeve end for the turn-up and mark the top sleeve for positioning of the ornamental sleeve piece according to the ornamental sleeve piece marker.

e. Mark the ornamental sleeve piece on the inside 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Position the sleeve piece on the sleeve with the marks matching and with the bottom edge of the sleeve piece even with the mark for the bottom turn-up of the sleeve.

f. Seam the ornamental sleeve piece to the sleeve at the mark. 301 LSbj-1 10-14

g. Turn back the ornamental sleeve piece at the seam and stitch as close as possible to, but not on top of, the topstitching at the top and bottom edges and at the scalloped peaks, leaving two openings on the scalloped edge to remove and replace the buttons. The ornamental sleeve piece finishes 5±1/8 inches long, measured along the folded edge from each folded edge of piping, and 2-1/4±1/8 inches wide at the center point, measured from the folded edge to the folded edge of the scarlet piping.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

h. Join the top and under sleeve at the backarm with a 3/8-inch seam. 301 SSa-1 10-14

i. Spread the seam open and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

j. Turn up the bottom edge of the sleeve at the mark and tack to the seam allowances of the forearm and backarm seams.

Hand or

--- 2-3

k. Press the bottom edge smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

14. MAKE SLEEVE LININGS AND ASSEMBLE SLEEVES

a. Finished appearance: the sleeve lining is positioned and attached to the sleeve without twists, pleats, puckers, or gathers.

b. Position the top and under sleeve linings in accordance with the notches on the pattern and join at the forearm and backarm, respectively, with a 3/8-inch seam.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

c. Position the sleeve lining on the sleeve with the upper edge of the lining extending 3/4 to 1 inch beyond the armhole edge of the sleeve.

d. Seam or tack the lining to the sleeve backarm and forearm seam allowance, respectively, commencing at the top of the sleeve fusible and extending up 6 to 7 inches along the backarm and forearm seams.

OR

301 SSa-1 6-8

e. As an alternate to operations 14.b through 14.d, when using a sleeve lining felling machine:

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

(1) Join the backarm seam and forearm seam of the sleeve lining.

The distance between the notches on the forearm is left open.

(2) Position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of the forearm sleeve seam and the top of the backarm sleeve seam.

(3) Tack the forearm seam and backarm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and backarm seam, respectively. The backarm seam tacking extends from approximately the midpoint of the backarm seam to not more than 6 inches above the creased bottom edge. The forearm seam tacking extends for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

Hand or SSa-1 2-3 or

301 4-8

f. Pull the sleeve through the sleeve lining.

15. FELL TURN-UP OF SLEEVE LININGS

a. Finished appearance: the sleeve lining is not short, tight, or twisted at the bottom of the sleeves.

b. Turn under the bottom edge of the sleeve lining to finish approximately 1 inch above the finished end of the sleeve. Fell the folded edge of the sleeve lining to the turn-up of the sleeve with blindstitching.

301 or EFc-1 6-8 or

Hand 8-10

c. As an option, the bottom edge of the sleeve may be basted to the turn-up prior to felling (see operation 15.b).

d. Turn the sleeves and assemble in pairs.

16. FOLD AND STITCH LOWER FRONT DARTS IN FRONT LININGS

a. Finished appearance: the dart finishes without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The dart is tapered to a point at the upper end.

b. Sew the lower front dart with a 3/8-inch seam, tapering the dart to a point at the upper end, and securely backtack.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

c. Overedge each edge of the lower dart, tapering off not more than

1 inch from the inner end.

OR

504 or 505 EFd-1 8-10

d. As an alternate to operations 16.b and 16.c, the dart may be stitched and overedged together in one operation. The thread chains are run off at the top of the dart a minimum of 1 inch.

515, 516, 517, 518, or 519

SSa-2 10-14

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

17. ASSEMBLE LININGS

a. Overedge all edges of each front, side back, and right and left back lining part (including the vent edge), excluding the bottom hem, armhole, shoulder, and neckline.

504 or 505 EFd-1 8-10

b. Matching the notches, join the right and left back linings along the center back seam with a 3/8-inch seam, stopping at the top of the vent;

join the side back linings to the right and left back linings with a 3/8-inch seam; and join the front linings to the back assembly at each side seam with a 3/4-inch seam.

301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Press the side and side back joining seam open and flat. Press the lower front dart towards the side.

d. Hem the bottom edge of the linings, with the raw edge turned under and caught in the stitching 1/16 inch from the folded upper edge of hem.

The hem finishes 1±1/8 inch wide. The side and side back joining seams remain open and flat and the lower front dart is positioned towards the side.

301 EFb-1 10-14

e. Fold the lining back at the center back seam to form a 1/2-inch wide pleat at the center back. The folded edge of the pleat faces the left side of the coat (as worn.) As an option, the pleat may be stitched across the top of the pleat at the neckline.

f. Press the pleat smooth and flat from the neckline to the vent area with a heated pressing iron.

18. OVEREDGE BODY PANELS AND FACINGS

a. Overedge all edges of the right and left fronts, side fronts, side front darts, side backs, and right and left backs, excluding the bottom edge, armhole, shoulder, and neckline. Overedge the back edge of the facings.

504 or 505 EFd-1 8-10

19. ATTACH FRONT FACINGS TO LININGS AND SEW ON LABEL

a. Finished appearance: the lining is seamed to the facing so that in the finished coat, the lining is smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material, or other defect or distortion.

b. Position the lining on the facing, with notches matching, and seam the front edge of the lining to the back edge of the facing 3/8 inch from the edge. The stitching extends from the top (shoulder) edge of the facing to the bottom hemmed edge of the lining.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

c. Press the facing/lining joining seam with the seam allowance toward the side.

d. Sew the identification/instruction label to the left front facing with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from each edge of the label. The label is positioned horizontally with one end adjacent to the facing/lining seam and the lower edge of the label approximately 2-1/2 inches up from the bottom piped edge of the coat.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

TABLE XI. Table of operations – Continued.

Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches

Per Inch

20. MAKE ARMHOLE SHIELDS

a. Finished appearance: the armhole shield finishes without puckers, gathers, or raw edges. The basic material and both edges of the binding are securely caught in the binding stitching.

b. Bind the rounded edge of armhole shield with bias binding

(see 3.4.10), turning under the outer or both raw edges of the binding and catching the turned under portion(s) in the stitching, 1/16 inch from the folded edge(s).

301 BSc-1 or

BSb-1

10-14

21. JOIN BACKS

a. Finished appearance: the side and center back are joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The folded edge of the left vent is in vertical alignment with the center back seam. The left center back overlaps the right center back not less than 2-3/4 inches and the left vent measures

2±1/8 inches wide, when measured at the bottom edge of the coat.

b. Position the center back edges even and join with a 5/8-inch…