Mens Trousers yagc 85-1B 3 Nov 2003.doc

FA7000-06-R-0019

Attachment 3

HUMAN SYSTEMS CENTER PURCHASE DESCRIPTION YAGC 85-1B

CLOTHING BRANCH AMENDMENT 3

3 NOV 93

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MEN’S, SERVICE

This amendment forms a part of Purchase Description YAGC 85-1B, dated

31 Mar 93.

Page 3, Paragraph 3.2.2 In line 3, delete “except the”. In line 4, delete “blue to match the outershell” and substitute “black”.

Page 4, Paragraph 3.2.3 In line 2, delete “and the front pocket facing”.

Page 5, Paragraph 3.2.8 In line 6, after “four-prong”, add “or three prong”.

Page 11, Operation 9 (b) In line 7, after “notch”, insert “When stitch type 503 or 504 is used, a trimming knife shall not be used.”

Page 34 and 35, Table III. Delete and insert the new pages attached.

TABLE III.Measurements in Inches

__________________26________27_______28_______29______30______31____ 32_____33____

½ Waist 13 13 ½ 14 14 ½ 15 15 ½ 16 16 ½

Tolerance: +1/4

½ Seat 17 ½ 18 18 ½ 19 19 ½ 20 20 ½ 21

Tolerance: +1/4, -1/2

Inseams Tolerance: + ½

X-Short/Short 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37

Regular 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37

Long 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38

X-Long 39 39 39

½ Knee 9 9 1/8 9 ¼ 9 3/8 9 ½ 9 5/8 9 ¾ 9 7/8

Tolerance: +1/4

½ Bottom 8 ½ 8 5/8 8 ¾ 8 7/8 9 9 1/8 9 ¼ 9 3/8

(leg) Tolerance: +1/4

Outseams Tolerance: +1/2

X-Short 44 5/8 44 7/8 45 1/8

Short 44 7/8 45 45 1/8 45 ¼ 45 3/8 45 ½ 45 5/8 45 ¾

Regular 45 3/8 45 ½ 45 5/8 45 ¾ 45 7/8 46 46 1/8 46 1/4

Long 46 7/8 47 47 1/8 47 1/4 47 3/8 47 ½ 47 5/8 47 ¾

X-Long 48 5/8 48 7/8 49 1/8

Measurements for ½ Knee shall be taken at the following locations: 20 1/8 for X-

Short, Short, and Regular, 21 1/8 for Long, and 22 1/8 for X-Long.

TABLE III.Measurements in Inches (continued)

_____________34________35____36_______37______38______39____ 40_____42____44 ½ Waist 17 17 ½ 18 18 ½ 19 19 ½ 20 21 22

Tolerance: +1/4

½ Seat 21 ½ 22 22 ½ 23 23 ½ 24 24 ½ 25 ½ 26 ½

Tolerance: +1/4, -1/2

Inseams Tolerance: + ½

X-Short/Short37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37

Regular 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37

Long 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38

X-Long 39 39 39 39

½ Knee 10 10 1/8 10 ¼ 10 3/8 10 ½ 10 5/8 10 ¾ 11 11 ¼

Tolerance: +1/4

½ Bottom 9 ½ 9 5/8 9 ¾ 9 7/8 10 10 1/8 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 3/4

(leg) Tolerance: +1/4

Outseams Tolerance: +1/2

X-Short 45 3/8 45 5/8 45 7/8 46 1/8

Short 45 7/8 46 46 1/8 46 ¼ 46 3/8 46 ½ 46 5/8 46 ¾ 46 7/8

Regular 46 3/8 46 ½ 46 5/8 46 ¾ 46 7/8 47 47 1/8 47 ¼ 47 3/8

Long 47 7/8 48 48 1/8 48 1/4 48 3/8 48 ½ 48 5/8 48 ¾ 48 7/8

X-Long 49 3/8 49 5/8 49 7/8 50 1/8

Measurements for ½ Knee shall be taken at the following locations: 20 1/8 for X-

Short, Short, and Regular, 21 1/8 for Long, and 22 1/8 for X-Long.

DISTRIBUTION LIST

Alleghany Manufacturing, Inc. HQ USAFA/LGU

Mr Arnold Goldman Mr Kenneth Rivera

1900 West Alleghany Avenue 2348 Sijan Drive Ste 2B3

Philadelphia PA 19132 Colorado Springs CO 80840-5000

Davis Clothing Company

Mr Charles First

115 Westgate Drive

Brockton MA 02401

Platoon Uniform

Mr Tom Kontonickas

300 South Avenue

Comer GA 30629

Red the Uniform Tailor

Ms Maria Estevez

2161 Whitesville Road

Toms River NJ 08755

SWS Garment

Mr William Smith

PO Drawer L

Fitzgerald GA 31750

Tennessee Apparel

301 East Erie Avenue

Philadelphia PA 19134

Weintraub Brothers

Mr Tom Weintraub

2695 Philmont Avenue

Huntington Valley PA 19006

AFC&TO/LDIC

Mr Bob Hampton

2800 South 20th Street

Philadelphia PA 19101-8419

AAFES/PD-U

Mr Dave Johnson

3911 South Walton Walker Blvd

Dallas TX 75266-0202

HUMAN SYSTEMS CENTER PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS 85-1B

HUMAN PROTECTION SYSTEMS PROGRAM OFFICE 31 MAR 93

CLOTHING BRANCH Supersedes Purchase

Description AESC 85-1A

2 JUN 87

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MEN’S, SERVICE

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This Purchase Description covers two types of men’s trousers.

1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be in the following types, and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Type I Dry Clean Only

Type II Washable

Schedule of Sizes

Sizes

X-Short 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

Short 26 28 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 38 40 42 44

Regular 26 28 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 42 44

Long 26 28 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 38 40 42 44

X-Long 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

1.3 Uniform. When coat and Type II trousers are procured as a uniform, the coat and trousers shall be cut from the same piece of material and the shades shall match.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Issues of Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this Purchase Description to the extend specified herein.

SPECIFICATIONS

Federal

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton/or Polyester Covered

V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

V-F-106 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking

AA-50198 Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole

UU-P-268 Paper, Kraft, Untreated, Wrapping

DDD-L-20 Label; for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

Military

MIL-C-823 Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool & Nylon, Polyester & Wool

MIL-B-17757 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes)

MIL-I-43639 Ink, Marking, Nameplate

MIL-C-43718 Cloth, Twill, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon

MIL-C-43920 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon

MIL-C-83448 Cloth, Serge, Polyester, Texturized

MIL-I-45208 Inspection System Requirements

STANDARDS

Federal

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods

FED-STD-751 Stitches, Seams and Stitchings

Military

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

MIL-STD-1488 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer).

2.2 Other Publications. The following documents form a part of this Purchase Description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply.

Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)

(Applications for copies of this technical manual should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists; Research Triangle Park, Post Office Box 12215, Durham, North Carolina 27709).

Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966. DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. Standard Color Card of America, Ninth Edition.

(Applications for copies of these standards should be addressed to the Textile Color Card Association of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10016).

(Technical society and technical association specifications and standards are generally available for reference from libraries and are also distributed among technical groups and using federal agencies).

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide Samples. Guide samples of the trousers, if furnished (see 6.3), are solely for information. In the event of conflict between the guide samples of the trousers and the requirements of the Purchase Descriptions, this Purchase Description shall govern.

3.1.2 Certification. (See 6.3) The contractor shall furnish a pair of trousers to HSC/YAGC, Bldg 55, 2255 Third Street, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7009, for inspection, approval and certification prior to bidding on an AAFES request for proposal (see 4.1.)

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for Type I trousers shall conform to MIL-C-823, Type III, Class 4 in shade Blue 1620. The basic fabric for the Type II trousers shall conform to MIL-C-83448 and shall be USAF Blue 1598.

3.2.2 Pocketing and Lining. The material for the pocketing, for the waistband lining, for the right fly lining, and for the crotch lining shall conform to class I of MIL-C-43718, except that the color of the material shall be blue to match the outershell. The waistband lining shall incorporate non-slip tape.

3.2.3 Left Fly Interlining and Front Pocket Facing. The material for the left fly interlining and the front pocket facing shall be a non-woven fabric comprised of 83% rayon + 3% and the balance polyester coated with a low density polyethylene.

Weight (min) 1 oz./sq. yd. (greige) 1.4 oz. Sq. yd. (w/finish)

3.2.4 Waistband Interlining. The material for the waistband interlining shall be either a bleached or unbleached cotton-polyester cloth, that contains not less than 45 Percent polyester fiber or a cotton buckram cloth that has a plain weave. The cotton buckram cloth shall have a minimum of 48 ends in the warp, shall have a minimum of 40 picks in the filling, and shall weigh a minimum of 3.5 ounces per square yard or a non-woven fusible may be used.

3.2.5 Thread.

3.2.5.1 Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton – or Polyester-Covered. The cotton or polyester-covered polyester core thread for general stitching of the skirt shall be Ticket #50 and #70, 2 or 3 ply. The thread for sewing of the buttons shall be Ticket #30, 2 ply. All threads shall conform to A-A-50199. The color shall be DOD thread shade navy blue AT, Cable No. 66060.

3.2.5.2 Colorfastness. All dyed thread shall show colorfastness to light and wet drycleaning, equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to light and wet drycleaning.

3.2.5.3 Thread for Reinforcing Buttonholes. The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, Size No. 8 of A-A-50198 and shall be DOD Thread Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 (see DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. If a standard sample is not available, the thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have good colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning.

3.2.7 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 4, 22 line of V-B-871 and shall be DOD Button Shade Blue BV, Cable No. 62003.

3.2.8 Slide Fastener. The slide fastener chain shall be nylon or polyester type and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2. The tape shall be woven from 100 percent polyester, or from blends of nylon and cotton, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon and shall have a minimum tape width (each side) of 3.8”. The completed slide fastener shall not shrink more than 2% when tested as specified in

V-F-106. A four-prong brass #3 size brass metal stop shall be used. The tape shall include an automatic or cam lock.

3.2.8.1 Slide fastener tape color. The color of the tape shall be USAF Shade Blue 1620 for Type I and Blue 1598 for Type II. The dyed tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good” fastness to laundering and wet drycleaning.

3.2.9 Hook and Eye. The hook and eye shall be crush proof and shall have a nickel plate finish. The hook and eye shall be an approved hook and eye (see 6.7), or equal; however, the approval of the procuring activity shall be required before an “or equal” hook and eye may be used.

3.2.10 Waistband Stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to MIL-C-43920.

3.2.11 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white color, with two rows of cloroprence or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item.

3.3 Design. The trousers shall be a dress type. The trousers shall have a sewn-on waistband with a hook and eye closure, a one-piece French Fly with a slide fastener closure, a straight pocket on each side, and a double-cord pocket on each hip. The closure of the left hip pocket shall consist of a buttonhole tab and button. An outlet is provided at seat seam and from crotch to knee.

3.4 Construction. The trousers shall be constructed as specified in Table I; however, the manufacturer will not be required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. The stitches per inch specified in Table I shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the trousers will be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or will not show on the finished trousers.

3.4.1 Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished trousers. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gaged throughout the trousers. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.4.1.1 Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. The ends of all seams and stitchings produced with stitch type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than ¼ inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than ½ inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than ½ inch. Skipped stitches and thread breaks in stitch type 401 may be repaired using stitch type 301.

3.4.2 Marking. Marking of the parts of the trousers to insure a uniform shade and size may be any method except corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on types of marking, or adhesive-type tickets that will leave impressions or traces of paper or adhesive after the tickets are removed from the parts. The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the finished trouser, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.4.3 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the trousers shall be cut, in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.5, from the materials specified herein and in the quantity specified in Table II. The stripping for the belt loops and for the buttonhole tab, the waistband lining, and the waistband interling shall be cut from the materials specified herein and of sufficient width for the requirements specified in Table I. As an option, a commercial-type waistband that conforms to the material requirements specified herein may be used for the trousers.

3.4.4 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shallbe an eyelet-end taper-bar type or an eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole, worked over cotton gimp thread, with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be ½ to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be ½ to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be bartacked, with 21 stitches per tack, in a separate operation. The bar end of the eyelet-end taper-bar type of buttonhole shall have a minimum of four stitches not counting the first cross-over stitch.

TABLE I – Sewing Operations

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

1 Cut Basic Fabric

(a) Cut the trousers in accordance with the patterns which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and notches for proper assembling of all parts.

(b) Spread the basic fabric without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direc-tion of the basic fabric.

The directional lines on the

Fronts and the backs, Measured at the top and bot-tom edges of the patterns from the directional line to the selvage edge of the basic fabric, may vary a maximum of

1 inch from the warp direc-tion; however, the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 1 inch.

(c) Cut all parts of the trousers made of basic fabric from the same piece of basic fabric, except for parts that may be cut from ends. The narrow facings for the side pockets, the hip pocket bearers, the belt loops, the fly tab pieces and the fly pieces (right and left) may be cut from ends but shall approximate

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch the shade of the other parts of the trousers. The cut parts from the top ply and the bottom ply shall match

& correspond to the patterns.

(d) Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with No. 7.

2 Cut Lining and Interlining

(a) Cut the material for the right fly lining on the straight or on the bias.

(b) Cut the material for the crotch lining so that the fold will be on the bias and one of the inseam sides will be in the direction of the warp.

(c) Cut the material for the waistband lining and the material for the waistband interlining on the bias and of sufficient width to comply with operation 18. Cut non-slip tape of sufficient length and width to comply with operation 18. As an option, the waistband may be a commercial type provided the material meets the requirements specified herein.

(d) Cut the material for the left fly interlining and for the stays for the side pockets.

3 Cut Pockets Cut the material for the

Pockets in the warp or the

Filling direction. Cut as

Many pockets as possible in

The warp direction.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

4 Mark Parts

Except for the parts that

May be cut from ends, mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the trousers to insure correct size and uniform shade throughout the trousers

5 Replace Defective or Damaged Parts

(a) Replace any part of the trousers containing a hole, a smash, a multiple float, a slub, or a shade bar.

(b) Replace any part of the trousers that is damaged by a needle chew, a cut, a tear, a hole, a burn, or an exposed drill hole during a manu-facturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished trousers.

6 Overedge Stitch 70-2 70-2 502 or EFd-1 6-10

(a) Overedge stitch the raw 70-2 70-2 503 or EFd-1 6-10 edges of the inseams, the leg 70-2 70-2 504 EFd-1 6-10 bottoms, the outseams (from the lower side pocket notch to the bottom of the trousers), the crotch seams, the seat seam and the left end of the waistband. The crotch linings folded in half, lengthwise may be caught in the stitching along the crotch seams and the forepart (see No. 6(b)). The side pocket stay pieces, with the bottom ends turned under, may be caught in the overedge stitching of the outseams

(see No. 15).

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) The crotch linings may 50-2 50-2 301 SSa-1 6-10 be stitched to the foreparts in a separate operation.

7 Make Stripping for Buttonhole, Tab and Belt Loops Turn the stripping with both 70-2 70-2 105 Efae-1 12-16 edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center. Stitch with the covering stitch on the under-side. The width of the finished stripping shall be

5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping shall incorporate a stiffener.

8 Make Hip Pocket Buttonhole Tab

(a) Cut a piece of the stripping (see No. 7) of sufficient length to comply with No. 8(b) and to finish

1-1/4 inches (plus or minus

1/8 inch) long when attached to the left hip pocket.

(b) Fold the piece of strip- 50-2 50-2 Bartack 28 ping in half, and shut the or Stitches side edges forming a point. Per Inch bartack across the abutted edges at the pointed end, catching the base of the triangle. Place a second 50-2 50-2 Auto- 24-28 bartack, across the abutted matic Stitches edges 5/8 inch (plus or Tacker Per Tack minus 1/16 inch) from the first bartack, forming a slit buttonhole. The bartacks shall be 3/8 to

½ inch long.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

9 Make Flies

(a) Superimpose the left fly 50-2 50-2 301 or LSbj-1 10-14 on the left fly interlining. 50-2 50-2 401 LSbj-1 10-14

Stitch the back edge of the

Slide fastener tape to the left fly with two rows of stitching. The ends of the scoops shall be ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch when the fasteners are cut and the scoops removed. The edge of the chain in the finished trousers shal be ½ to 5/9 inch from the edge at the top, tapering to ¼ to 3/8 inch from the edge at the bottom.

(b) After the fastener is 50-2 50-2 301 SSa-1 10-14 cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the fastener tape to the back edge of the right fly, with the bottom end of the scoops ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch.

When the fly tab of the finished trousers is buttoned, the fly tab and the waistband shall lie smooth and flat.

(c) Seam the lining to the 50-2 50-2 301 or SSe-2(a) 10-14 front edge of the right fly 50-2 50-2 401 Sse-2(a) 10-14 to within 1 inch (plus or minus ¼ inch) from the top of the fly.

(d) Overedge the back edge 70-2 70-2 503 or SSa-1 6-10 of the left fly and the interlining.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

10 Make Darts

(a) Fold and stitch the 50-2 50-2 301 OSf-1 10-14 darts as indicated on the pattern. Turn the folded edge of the trousers toward the seat seam. The lower end of the dart shall finish in the hip pocket opening.

(b) An automatic dart marking machine may be used for this operation.

11 Make Hip Pocket and Attach Combination Label The finished pockets shall be in alignment, shall be uniform in width and depth, and shall be 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish

5-1/4 + 1/8 inches long.

(a) Position the combi- 50-2 50-2 301 LSbj-1 10-14 nation label on the right hip pocketing so that the combination label on the finished trousers will face the wearer, be centered

(+ ½ inch tolerance) on the pocket and the top edge 1 to

1-1/2 inches below the bearer.

Stitch the label on all four

Sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

The certification label shall be sewn on the right hip

Pocketing on all four sides.

On the selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Turn in the lower edge 50-2 50-2 301 LSd-1 10-14 of the bearer, and seam to the pocket at the notches. If the bearer piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

(c) Position the cord 50-2 50-2 301 10-14 facing piece on the out-side of the trousers, as indicated on the pattern, with the pocketing placed on the underside (as indicated by the solid line on the pattern);

stitch to the trousers through the pocketing with two rows of stitching.

(d) Cut the opening 50-2 50-2 301 10-14 between the rows of stitching through all plies simultaneously.

Turn the lower part of the facing through the cut open-ing, and raise stitch form-ing a 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch cord edge.

(e) Turn in the raw edge 50-2 50-2 301 LSd-1 10-14 of the cord facing piece, and seam to the pocketing.

If the cord facing piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(f) Fold the pocketing; 50-2 50-2 301 or SSe-2(a) 10-14 seam the sides, and turn 50-2 150-2 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14 to the finished position.

(g) Smooth out the pocket- 50-2 50-2 301 SSe-2(b) 10-14 ing, and single stitch 3/16 and to ¼ inch from the edge. 50-2 50-2 OSf-1 10-14

The stitching may extend across the bottom folded edge. The ends of the bearer & the cord, facing piece shall be caught by the edge stitching only.

(h) Form a 1/8 inch to 50-2 50-2 301 10-14

3/16 inch cord of the facing on upper edge of the pocket opening.

Insert the buttonhole tab at the center (1/4 inch off-center tolerance) on the left hip pocket.

Raise stitch the seam through the trousers, the cord facing piece, the pocket bearer, and the pocketing, closing the top of the pocket.

(i) Tack the ends of the 50-2 50-2 301 pocket opening ¼ to 3/8 inch through the cord, the bearer, and the pocketing.

OR

(j) No. 22(c) and 11(d) may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine that stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation. If this machine is used, the welt pieces may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine and the machine Manfacturer’s recommended pocket stay material may be used.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

AND Inch

(k) Raise stitch the 50-2 50-2 301 10-14 joining seam of the lower piping piece through the back of the trousers and the piping piece only.

Raise stitch the joining seam of the top piping piece through all plies, closing the top of the pocket. The ends of the pocket openings shall be securely tacked.

12 Make Side Pockets Place the facing and the 50-2 50-2 301 LSd-1 10-14 bearer on the pocketing;

stitch along the inner side, with the raw edge turned in, and across the lower end. A selvage edge need not be turned in.

13 Attach Side Pockets The edges of the side pocket openings shall not be dis-torted. The openings shall be aligned, shall be uniform in length, and shall measure not less than 5-3/4 inches, nor more than 6-1/2 inches between tacks. Avoid notch-ing the pocket on the under-side beyond the width of the side seam allowance.

(a) Seam the side pockets 50-2 50-2 301 SSe-2 12-14 to the front, as indicated by the marks on the pattern, notch the pocket openings;

turn to the finished position with the seam to the back of the front edges, and stitch

3/16 to ¼ inch from the edge, starting at the top of the pocket opening.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Fold the pocket right 50-2 50-2 301 SSae-2(a) 10-14 side out, and stitch from 50-2 50-2 401 Ssae-2(a) 10-14 the step to the folded edge of the pocketing. Notch the pocket and the facing at the top of the step and turn the pocket.

(c) Tack the ends of the 50-2 50-2 301 10-14 openings to the bearer with

¼ to 3/8 inch tacks. The right and left pocket opening shall not be out of alignment by more than ½ inch.

14 Sew on Flies The ends of the flies shall

Be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the slide fastener is closed.

(a) Sew on the right fly 50-2 50-2 301 SSa-1 10-14 with the notches matched.

(b) Sew on the left fly 50-2 50-2 301 or LSq-2(a) 10-14

(slide fastener attached) 401 and with the notches matching; 50-2 50-2 301 LSq-2(b) 10-14 turn and raise stitch the fly 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the turned edge. Turn the fly to the inside with the seam line 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of the folded edge.

15 Join Outseams

(a) Join the outseams with 50-2 50-2 301 or SSa-1 10-14 the notches matched, 50-2 50-2 401 SSa-1 10-14 catching the pocket stay with the bottom ends turned under (if not previously caught in the overedge operation) (See No. 6(a)).

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Press the outseams open from the bottom to the top of trousers. The pocket stay pieces may be folded over the open seam and pressed into position for

No. 16.

16 Finish Side Pockets

(a) Turn in the back edge 50-2 50-2 301 SSc-1 10-14 of the side pockets and the and edge of the stay pieces and 50-2 50-2 301 SSe-2(b) 10-14 stitch to the stay pieces

3/16 to ¼ inch from the edge along the side seam allowance. Continue the stitching around; the pocket to the folded edge and securely backstitch the end of the seam.

17 Attach Waistband and Set Belt Loops Finished appearance. The finished waistband shall measure 1-1/2

(+1/8) inches wide. There shall be seven loops for sizes up to & including 37 and eight loops for sizes 38 and up. The loops shall be positioned as follows:

One on each front as indi-cated by patterns. One at each outseam on back. One centered between outseam & seat seam.

One on seat seam (See operation

27a and b). The extra loop for larger sizes on right front

1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from right fly joining seam.

(a) Stitch the right and 50-2 50-2 401 SSa-1 10-14 waistbands to the trousers, catching the ends of the belt loops, except the center back loop in the stitching.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Press the waistband seams open.

(c) Drop belt loops & 50-2 50-2 301 or 10-14 securely stitch or bartack bartack the loops 3/8 inch below the or auto-waistband seam. The stitch- matic ing or tacking shall not loop extend beyond the width of tacker the loop. NOTE: The waist-band lining may be attached to the waistband (see No. 18) prior to setting to the trousers.

18 Make and Join Waistband Linings The waistband lining shall

Be not less than 2 + 1/8 inches wide in the finished trousers. The top row of rubber thread of the non-slip tape on the waistband lining assembly shall be

¾ + 1/8 inch from the top of the waistband. No stitching shall penetrate the rubber thread of the non-slip tape. The waistband linings may be pieced, pro-viding the seam is flat & not more than one piecing is made in each of the trousers. The waistband lining shall incorporate elastic stripping.

(a) Make non-slip waistband 70 70 503, FSf-1 8-10 lining trousers. 504 or

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(1) Position the center of the non-slip tape 5/8

(+ 1/16) inch below the top edge of a 2-1/4 inch wide woven or nonwoven buckram strip. Buckram may be pieced by butting ends & joining.

Not more than one seam per

Waistband shall be permitted.

(2) Cut the waistband 70 70 503, SSa-1 10-14 lining material (see operation 2d) on the bias in two portions to attach above and below the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape as follows:

- The lower portion shall be cut wide enough to fold around the bottom edge of the buckram and extend ¼ inch beyond the lower row of rubberized threads, front and back. The lower lining portion shall measure

1 (+ 1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to the trousers.

- The top portion shall be cut wide enough to extend

5/8 inch beyond the top row of rubberized threads and

¼ inch beyond the top edge of the buckram with a ¼ inch turn under near the top row of rubberized threads. The top lining portion shall measure 5/8 (+ 1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to trousers. The lining may be pieced with not more than one seam per portion of waistband using a ¼ inch seam spread open and flat.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(3) Turn under the lower 70 70 101, smlr to 8-10 edge of the top portion 301 or LSd-1 of waistband lining material 401

¼ inch. With fold adjacent to the top row of the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape, stitch close to fold through lining, non-slip tape and buckram.

(4) Turn under the top of 70 70 101, smlr to 8-10 the front of the lower 301 or BSb-1 portion of waistband 401 lining material ¼ inch.

Place fold adjacent to the lower row of the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape.

Stitch close to fold through lining on front, non-slip tape, buckram, and portion of lining turned to back.

(c) Turn under top edge of 50 50 304 or 12-14 waistband lining & stitch 50 70 404 to top edge of waistband catching interlining stabilizer with a row of simulated hand felling.

(d) Applicable to trousers 50 50 301 or SSe-2(a) 12-14 when option to extend 50 70 401 waistband lining to right end of waistband is exercised). Turn right end of waistband lining to the outside and stitch to front edge of waistband catching the top of the fly lining in the stitching.

(e) Fold waistband lining to the inside and baste or press top edge. The lining shall not be exposed beyond the top of waistband.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

19 Attach Hook and Eye

(a) Position the hook on the center (1/4 inch off-center tolerance) of the left waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach the hook through a suitable reinforcement.

(b) Position the eye on the center of the right waistband, aligned with the slide fastener scoops, to corresponding to the hook on the left waistband.

Attach the eye through a

Suitable reinforcement.

NOTE: The closure shall not bulge when the hook and eye are engaged in the finished trousers.

20 Finish Right and Left Flies The top corners of the right

And the left flies shall be

Completely forced out and

Shall not be bulky. The

Stitching of the left fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly.

The seam joining the left fly

To the forepart shall not be

Exposed on the outside of the

Trousers when the slide fastener is closed. The right fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside. The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers or excessive fullness.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(a) Continue the stitching 50-2 50-2 301 or SSe-2(a) 10-14 of the fly lining to the 50-2 50-2 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14 top of the waistband.

(b) Turn the right fly 50-2 50-2 301 SSe-2(b) 10-14 lining to the inside, & and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch 50-2 50-2 301 SSc-1 10-14 from the front edge. Turn and in the fly lining at the 50-2 50-2 301 LSq-2(b) 10-14 top of the waistband, & Shows continue the stitching Finished across the top. Turn in Seams the raw edge of the fly lining, and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching. The edge stitching along the front edge of the fly may be accomplished in a separate operation.

(c) If the option to 50-2 50-2 301 or SSe-2(b) 10-14 extend the waistband 50-2 50-2 401 LSq-2(b) 10-14 lining to the right end of the waistband is exercised, the following operation shall apply:

Turn the right fly lining to the inside, & stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge.

Continue the stitching along the front end of the waistband, across the top of the waistband

& down to meet the back of the right fly.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

Turn in the raw edge of

The fly lining, and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching.

(d) Turn the back end of 50-2 50-2 301 SSa-1 10-14 the waistband in line with the front folded edge of the left fly, and stitch across the top of the waistband the width of the fly. Trim, turn, and work out the corner.

(e) Stitch down the left 50-2 50-2 301 SSa-1 10-14 fly with the waistband lining smoothly inserted between the fly and the trousers. The stitching shall be 1-3/8 inches

(+ 1/8 inch) from the front edge of the fly, extended from the top of the waistband, and curve to the fly notch.

21 Join Inseams

(a) Join inseams forming 50-2 50-2 301 or SSa-1 10-14 outlet with the seam 50-2 50-2 401 SSa-1 10-14 allowance of back part from 1-1/8 inches at crotch all the way down the leg. The seam shall finish evenly and notches shall match. The tolerance on matching the inseams is

+ 3/8 inch.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

22 Join Seat Seams Inch

The seat shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain encountered in sitting or stooping. In the joining of the seat seam the inseams shall meet and the right & left waistband joining seams shall be aligned. The base of the left fly shall cover the right fly on the outside of the finished trousers.

The inseams shall not be staggered more than 3/8 inch at crotch.

(a) Join the seat seam 50-2 50-2 401 SSa-2 7-10 from the base of the fly Each to the end of the waist- Needle band lining with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart.

(b) Press the crotch & seat seam open.

23 Finish Waistband and Attach Size Label

(a) Topstitch the spread- 50-2 50-2 301 LSb-2(b) 12-16 open waistband seam 1/16 inch below the joining seam catching the waist-band lining (with ends at the top of the pockets in the stitching). The stitch-ing shall not extend across the fly except when option to extend waistband lining to right end of waistband is exercised. Pockets may be stitched or basted to waistband seam allowance prior to top stitching.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Stitch the top edge 50-2 50-2 301 10-14 of the size label to the lower edge of the waist-band lining above the right hip pocket. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

the end of the stitching need not be tacked provided the stitching extends at least ½ inch beyond each end of the label.

(c) Join the bottom edge 50-2 103 or 4-6 of the waistband lining 50-2 105 or 4-6

(catching the interlining) 50-2 106 or 4-6 to the top edges of the 50-2 50-2 314 or 4-6 pockets with a row of 50-2 Hand 6-8 simulated hand felling.

The stitching shall terminate 1 to 1-1/2 inches beyond the front edges of the front pockets and the back edges of the hip pockets. When this operation is performed by hand, the stitching may terminate at the front edges of the front pockets and the back edges of the hip pockets, providing they are securely tacked.

24 Assemble Slide Fasteners Attach the slider and, with the ends of the chain even, staple the fastener together at the bottom with the staple overlapping the scoops.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

25 Stitch Right Fly Extension Turn in the raw edges of 50-2 50-2 301 or SSac-3(b) 10-14 the right fly extension SSac-3(c) piece, and machine stitch SSac-3(d) 6-8 or hand fell to each side 50-2 Hand SSac-3(b) of the spread open crotch SSac-3(c) and seat seam. SSac-3(d)

26 Finish Belt Loop Attachment Turn up belt loops, fold 50-2 50-2 301 or LSd-1 10-16 under top of loops and bartack 21-28 position folded edge 1/8 or auto- per

(+ 1/16) inch from top of matic bartack waistband and bartack. The loop 24-28 finished belt loops shall tacker per tack measure 1¾ (+ 1/8) inches from bartack at top of loop to the bottom folded edge.

27 Attach Center Back Belt Loop Finished appearance. The tacking shall extend the width of the loop but not beyond.

(a) Turn under top end of 50-2 50-2 301 or LSd-1 10-14 belt loop, position over bartack 28 seat seam even with top of or Stitches waistband and stitch, tack Per or bartack to trousers 1/16 bartack to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

The top folded edge of loop shall finish 1/8 (+ 1/16) inch from top of waistband.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Turn under bottom end 50-2 50-2 Auto- LSd-1 24-28 belt loop and bartack to matic Stitches trousers ¼ (+ 1/8) inch Loop Per Tack below waistband. The Tacker finish loop shall measure

1½ to 1 5/8 inches between tacks.

28 Make Buttonhole Make the buttonhole at the 50-2 50-2 Button- 52-54

End of the tab, as hole Stitches

Indicated on the pattern, Per with the inside edge of Button the eyelet 5/8 to ¾ inch hole from the point. The purling shall face the wearer of the finished trousers.

29 Mark or Gage and Sew Button The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes.

Hand sewn buttons shall be shank wrapped three times & the ends of the thread shall be securely tacked with not less than two stitches.

Machine sewn buttons which are automatically shanked shall have a minimum of ten wraps with three locking stitches.

(a) Sew a 22-line button 50-2 50-2 301 or 14-16 on the left waistband Stitches lining to correspond with Per the fly-tab buttonhole. Button

The stitching shall not be 50-2 101 or 14-16

Visible on the outside of Stitches the trousers. Per

Button

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

(b) Sew a 22-line button 50-2 Hand 4 Double on left hip pocket through Thread pocket and facing to Stitches correspond to buttonhole Per tab. Button

30 Bartack The bartacks shall be well

Made & correctly placed to

Reinforce the points of

Strain as specified. The

Bartacks at the side pocket openings shall extend beyond the outseams 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8 to ½ inch.

(a) Bartack all pockets at 50-2 50-2 Bartack 28 the ends of the pocket Stitches opening. The bartacks Per shall be perpendicular Bartack to the openings.

(b) Bartack at the base of 50-2 50-2 Bartack 28 the fly at the junction of Stitches the crotch seam and the fly. Per

The bartack may be diagonal, Bartack in line with the fly stitch-ing, or may be horizontal

& shall not extend beyond the crotch seam.

31 Finish Bottoms For both types of trousers

Overedge or pink leg bottoms.

32 Clean

(a) Trim all ends of stitch-ing. Remove loose threads.

(b) Trim the ends of the center back belt loop to a length of 1/16 to ¼ inch.

(c) Remove al spots, stains, & markings.

No. Description of Operation Thread Stitch Seam and Stitch

Top Lower Type Stitch per

Inch

33 Press Press the tops, including the fly & the pockets.

Press the legs individually.

Crease the legs in the center with the seams matching at the bottom & at the crotch. The inseam at the crotch may be slightly back of the outseam. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the leg creases at the front and back parts of the legs. The ends of the creases shall not be higher than nor more than

1 inch lower than the junction of the inseams at the crotch.

Materials Pattern Parts Quantity

Basic Fabric Front 2

(See 3.2.1) Back 2

Fly (1 right and 1 left) 2

Right fly with integrated tab 1/ 1

Side pocket wide facing

(or bearer)

Side pocket narrow facing 2

Hip pocket bearer 2

Hip pocket cord 2

Waistband (1 right and 1 left) 2

Right waistband for use with integrated tab 1/ 1

Pocket and Lining Right fly lining with

(See 3.2.2) integrated tab 1/2/ 1

Crotch lining 2

Side pocket stay 2

Side pocket 2

Hip pocket 2

Non-Woven Left fly interlining 1

(See 3.2.3) Front pocket welt 2

1/ The pattern parts listed for the right fly with integrated tab, for the right waistband for use with integrated tab, and the right fly lining with integrated tab should be used.

2/ As an option, the right front end of the waistband ling may extend to the front opening. If this option is used, the right fly lining shall be shortened at the top. The altered right fly lining shall be sufficiently long to extend under the waistband lining.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, placement of pockets, and notches for the proper assembling of the parts of the trousers will be furnished by the procuring activity (see 6.3). the standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns.

The manufacturer’s working patterns shall be identical to the

Standard patterns and shall not be altered in any way. The

Patterns provide a ¼ inch seam allowance for bagging pockets, A 3/8 inch seam allowance for all other seams except seat seam and inseam of back part; 7/8 inch has been added to the seat seam allowances (total 1-1/4 inches at top) to allow for tapering the seat outlet and ¾ inch has been added to the inseam of back part (total 1-1/8 inches at top) to allow for the inseam outlet of back part to knee.

3.6 End Item.

3.6.1 Shade Matching. The shade of the finished trouser shall match the shade of the standard sample, USAF Blue 1620 for Type I trousers and USAF Blue 1598 for Type II.

3.6.2 Appearance After Washing. After the finished trousers

(Type II) have been laundered five times, the seam appearance and crease retention ratings of the trousers shall be as follows:

(a) The seam appearance of the trousers shall have a minimum average rating of 3.5 for each of the following areas:

crotch, inseam, outseam, seat seam, back pocket, side pocket, fly and waist.

(b) The crease retention of the trousers shall have a minimum average rating of 4.0 for each of the following areas:

front and back.

3.7 Identification of Product. Each pair of trousers shall

have a size label, a combination identification and instruction label and a certification label.

3.7.1 Size Label. The size label shall conform to Type I, Class 2 of DDD-L-20 and shall have colorfastness to laundering as specified in DDD-L-20. The size marking shall include the numerical and adjective designation. For example, a 34 waist, regular length, shall be designated 34R. (See operation-23)

3.7.2 Combination Identification and Instruction. The

combination identification and instruction label shall conform to Type I, Classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20 and shall have colorfastness to laundering as specified in DDD-L-20. The label shall contain the following information: (See operation 11(a)).

3.7.2.1 Type II Trouser.

WASH/DRY CLEAN INSTRUCTIONS

This 100% polyester garment can be cleaned or

Wash and wear laundered. CAUTION: If worn with

Matching coat, DRY CLEAN ONLY to preserve shade

Matching.

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

Machine or Hand Wash: Use wash and wear/permanent

Press cycle or by hand using warm water 100 F (44 C) and mild detergent. DO NOT starch, bleach, wring/twist, or overload washing (2/3 capacity).

Heavy stains may require prespotting. Rinse in warm or cold water. Drying: Tumble dry at warm/permanent press setting. Remove immediately after drying, shape and hang. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle, shake and hang out of direct sunlight to dry. Touch up: If required, use iron at synthetic or moderate heat setting.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.7.2.2 Type I Trouser. The combination, identification, size and instruction label for the Type I trouser shall conform to

Type VI, class 14 and shall include the following information:

Trouser, Men’s, Service

Contract No.: DLA100-00-0-0000 (Example) 1/

Fiber Products Act (information as applicable) 1/

Stock No… 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) 1/

Size: 34R (Example)

Contractor 1/

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.7.3 Certification. The manufacturer will be certified and

given a certificate number which he shall use in a woven label attached to each item indicating that the garment has been produced in accordance with the requirements of this Purchase description. The label shall read as follows:

USAF Certification No. ________________________

A sample of this item has been inspected and meets or exceeds the quality prescribed by AF _______________.

The manufacturer certifies that this item meets the quality of

Sample approved by USAF.

3.8 Workmanship. The trousers shall be manufactured in a

thoroughly workmanlike manner.

3.9 Measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the

measurements shown in Table III. The tolerances shall be + ¼ inch for ½-waist, ½-knee and ½-bottom measurements; + ½ inch for outseams and inseams and + ¼, - ½ for ½-seat measurements

TABLE III. Measurements in inches ____________________________________________ODD SIZES_____________________________________________

______________________________________31________33______35______37_______39_______________________

½-waist 1/ 15-1/2 16-1/2 17-1/2 18-1/2 19-1/2

½-seat 2 20 21 22 23 24

Inseams 3/

31 31 31 31 31

- Short 33 33 33 33 33

- Regular 35 35 35 35 35

- Long 37 37 37 37 37

39 39 39 39 39

½-knee 4/

Short 9 3/8 9 5/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8

- Regular 9 5/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8

- Long 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8 10 7/8

½ bottom (leg) 5/

& Short 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10

- Regular 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼

- Long 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½

Outseams 6/

39 ¾ 40 40 ¼ 40 ½ 40 ¾

- Short 42 ¼ 42 ½ 42 ¾ 43 43 ¼

- Regular 44 ¾ 45 45 ¼ 45 ½ 45 ¾

- Long 47 ¼ 47 ½ 47 ¾ 48 48 ¼

- X-Long 49 ¾ 50 50 ¼ 50 ½ 50 ¾

TABLE III. Measurements in inches (cont’d)

___________________________________________________________EVEN SIZES__________________________________ ____________________26_______28______30______32______34______36______38______40______42______44________

½-waist 1/ 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

½-seat 2 17 ½ 18 ½ 19 ½ 20 ½ 21 ½ 22 ½ 23 ½ 24 ½ 25 ½ 26 1/2

Inseams 3/

- x-Short 31 31 31 31 31 31 31

- Short 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33

- Regular 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 35

- Long 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37

- x-Long 39 39 39 39 39 39 39

½-knee 4/

- x-Short & Short 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 ¾ 11

- Regular 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 ¾ 11 11 ¼

- Long & x-Long 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 ¾ 11 11 ¼ 11 ½

½ bottom (leg) 5/

- x-Short & Short 8 ¼ 8 ½ 8 ¾ 9 9 ¾ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½

- Regular 8 ½ 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 ¾

- Long & x-Long 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 ¾ 11

Outseams 6/

- x-Short 39 3/8 39 5/8 39 7/8 40 1/8 40 3/8 40 5/8 40 7/8

- Short 41 5/8 41 7/8 42 1/8 42 3/8 42 5/8 42 7/8 43 1/8 43 3/8 43 5/8 43 7/8

- Regular 44 1/8 44 3/8 44 5/8 44 7/8 45 1/8 45 3/8 45 5/8 45 7/8 46 1/8 46 3/8

- Long 46 5/8 46 7/8 47 1/8 47 3/8 47 5/8 47 7/8 48 1/8 48 3/8 48 5/8 48 7/8

- x-Long 49 3/8 49 5/8 49 7/8 50 1/8 50 3/8 50 5/8 50 7/8

1/ With slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ With slide fastener closed, measure across trousers, one inch above fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

3/ Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

4/ The location of knee measurements shall be within 17 7/8 to

18 3/8 inches from bottom of trousers for X-shorts. 18 7/8 to

19 3/8 inches for Shorts, 19 7/8 to 20 3/8 for Regulars, 20 7/8 to 21 3/8 inches for Longs, and 21 7/8 to 22 3/8 for X-Longs.

Measure from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Measure along unhemmed edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge.

6/ Measure along outseam from bottom edge of waistband to unhemmed bottom edge of leg.

TABLE IV. Testing of Materials and Components

Characteristics of

Materials or Components Test Methods

Cloth for waistband interling

(See 3.2.4)

Fiber percentage See 4.7.4

Weight 5041 of FED-STD-191

Color Visual 2/

Weave Visual 2/

Yarns per inch 5050 of FED-STD-191

Material identification 1200 of FED-STD-191 1/

Slide fastener tape (See 3.2.8)

Durable press treatment 1/

Colorfastness to laundering 5610 of FED-STD-191

Fiber identification (filling) 1530 of FED-STD-191 1/

Fiber percentage (warp) 2530 of FED-STD-191 1/ 3/

Hook and eye (See 3.2.9)

Approved type 1/

1/ Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), a certificate of compliance shall be…