FINAL_NCTRF_PD_17-15A_Trunks_Physical_Fitness_Uniform_12_DEC_17.docx

INCH-POUND

NCTRF PD 17-15A

12 December 2017 SUPERSEDES NCTRF PD 17-15 7 March 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION TRUNKS, PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the trunks, physical fitness uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Navy.

1.2 Classification. The trunks will be available in the following types and sizes:

1.2.1 Types.

Type I – 6 inch inseam Type II – 8 inch inseam

1.2.2 Sizes. The trunks sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large Note: the above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.2.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General use) (Copies of these documents are available online from the procuring activity.)

2.3 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY DRAWINGS

02-NCTRF-15 - Logos, US Navy PTU (For access to drawing see 6.4)

2.3.1 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)

ANSI/ISEA 107 - American National Standard for High Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear

(Application for copies shall be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1819 L St NW, Washington DC 20036 or www.ansi.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D276 - Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles

Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

Fabrics

Activity of Immobilized Antimicrobial Agents under Dynamic Contact Conditions

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 1060, 2001 (Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com or from Taylor and Francis, 7625 Empire Drive, Florence, KY 41042.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence. Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The trunks shall be boxer style with a boxer brief knitted liner. The trunks shall have a vent on both outseams. The trunks shall have double turned single needle vent at the bottom of each out seam. The trunks shall have two (2) outseam hanging pockets. The trunks shall have an all elastic waistband with a draw-cord exiting at the inside center front via buttonhole (see Figure 5). The left front lower leg shall have a reflective graphic logo with the word “NAVY”. The trunks shall have one inside hanging ID/key pocket. The liner shall be stitched to the shell with the face side facing the wearer. The liner shall have a rectangular shaped gusset between the front and back liner crotch joining seams.

3.4 Basic materials.

3.4.1 Shell. The basic material shall be a plain weave 100% nylon consisting of 68 filament yarn spun on an air jet system. The warp yarn shall be a dull 70/1 denier yarn and the filling yarn shall be a dull 70/2 denier yarn. The material shall match the standard sample for Blue 3389 when tested in accordance with 4.6 (see 6.4). The material shall be dyed with chlorine retentive dyes to match the color of the standard sample material. The basic material shall be preshrunk and shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE I. Physical requirements for shell cloth

Yarns per Inch (minimum) Warp Filling

Breaking Strength, pounds (minimum) Warp Filling

Tearing Strength, pounds (minimum) Warp Filling

6.0 7.0

Dimensional Stability, percent (maximum) (After 5 launderings) Warp Filling

3.0 2.0

TABLE I. Physical requirements for shell cloth (continued)

Colorfastness (minimum) Laundering (5 cycles) Light (170 kilojoules or 40 hrs.) Crocking (Dry/wet) Perspiration (acid/alkaline) Water – Chlorinated Pool

3-4

3.4.2 Liner, ID/key pocket. The cloth for the liner, ID/key pocket of the trunks shall be 100% polyester micro denier crepe knit. The lining cloth shall be dyed with a chlorine retentive dye to produce a black color or match the basic cloth color. The lining cloth and ID/Key pocket shall have a hydro moisture management/wicking capability and antimicrobial treatment meeting the requirements stated in Table II. As an alternative a cloth that has a hydro moisture management/wicking capability and Smart Silver™ Technology antimicrobial treatment shall meet the requirements of ASTM E2149 as stated in Table II and may also be used (see 6.6). The lining cloth shall be preshrunk and shall conform to the requirements stated in Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE II. Physical requirements for liner, ID/key pocket cloth

Yarns per Inch (minimum) Wales Courses

Dimensional stability, percent (maximum) After 5 launderings Wales Courses

5.0 5.0

Colorfastness (minimum) Laundering (5 cycles) Crocking (wet/dry) Perspiration (acid/alkaline) Water – Chlorinated Pool

Anti-microbial Migratory Initial After 25 Launderings Non-migratory Initial After 25 Launderings

Log 3 or better / 99.9% min. Log 3 or better / 99.9% min.

Log 2 or better / 99.0% min. Log 2 or better / 99.0% min.

3.4.3 Webbing, elastic. The knitted all elastic webbing for the trunks shall be a cotton, polyester or cotton/polyester blend with 22 ends, 30 gauge rubber with 120% (+ 5%) elongation and weigh between 1 to 1.25 oz./per linear yard and shall measure 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches in width. The elastic shall be machine washable and dryable and properly heat set and stabilized. The color shall be black or white and shall exhibit colorfastness or discoloration equal or better than the basic material, shell. Testing shall be in accordance to Table IX.

3.4.4 Draw-cord. The braid for the tubular draw-cord shall be cotton, polyester or polyester/cotton in a continuous solid construction and shall be 3/16 (± 1/32) inches in diameter. The braid shall be embedded in the elastic webbing for the waistband. The color shall match the basic material or be black and shall exhibit colorfastness equal to or better than the basic material, shell. Testing shall be in accordance to Table IX.

3.4.5 Draw-cord alternate. As an alternate, the elastic for the waistband may contain an integrated draw- cord and meet the color and characteristics stated in 3.4.4. Lengths shall be in accordance to Table III.

Table III. Draw-cord Alternate Lengths (inches)

Note: Measurement shall be taken before draw-cord has been pulled out of waistband for accessing, straight across from the center of the waistband and doubled.

3.4.6 Reflective material. The reflective marking material for the graphic logo transfers shall be applied by heat transfer method and produced using 3M Scotchlite™ 8712 silver retro reflective film or equal (See 6.5). See drawing 02-NCTRF-15 for “NAVY” lettering and font. Testing shall conform to the requirements in Table IX.

3.4.6.1 Testing of reflective materials. The reflective marking material for the graphic logo transfers shall be tested to ensure appropriate adhesion to the basic material used in the trunks. See 4.5.1. Testing shall conform to the requirements in Table IX. The markings shall not delaminate, crack or peel after the 50 launderings. The markings shall not stain the basic material. The marking shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum 3 rating using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

3.4.7 Thread, shell. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be Type I or II, Tex 36-45, 2 ply conforming to the requirements of A-A-50199 or be in accordance to commercial standards except colorfastness tests and requirements shall be as specified for basic material, shell. The thread color shall match the shade of the basic shell material, shall have equal to or better colorfastness properties than the basic material, shell and shall be stabilized to prevent shrinkage. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments.

3.4.8 Thread, liner. The thread for all the seaming and stitching of the liner shall be 100% texturized polyester thread, Tex 18 conforming to the requirements of A-A-52095 or Type II, Tex 25 – 30, 2 ply conforming to the requirements of A-A-50199 or be in accordance to commercial standards, except that the colorfastness tests and requirements shall be as specified for basic material, liner.

The thread color shall match the shade of the basic material, liner and shall have equal to or better colorfastness properties. The thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments.

3.5 Visual shade matching. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance when tested in accordance with 4.6.

3.6 Labels. Each garment shall incorporate heat transfer or screen print labels as specified in paragraph

3.6.1. Each garment shall contain a size label, an identification label and an instruction label. All garments shall have a bar code hang tag as specified in 3.6.2. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and instruction label may be combined. The label shall be located inside of the liner on the center back (wearer’s) left panel below waistband and not be visible to the outside of the trunks. The labels shall not irritate the wearer. The label shall be legible for the life of the garment and show no signs of fading or delamination through 50 laundering cycles when laundered in accordance with the requirements in Table IX when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The markings shall not stain the basic material. The marking shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum 3 rating using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

3.6.1 Combination size/identification /care instruction label. The combination size/identification/instruction label shall be a tagless application conforming to MIL-DTL-32075 Type III or IV applied to the inside of the liner on the center back (wearer’s) left panel below waistband and shall contain the following information:

SIZE NSN No.

CONTRACT NUMBER

TRUNKS, NAVY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM S H E LL: 100% NYLON

LINER: 100% POLYESTER CONTRACTOR’S NAME

“CARE INSTRUCTIONS”

MACHINE WASH LUKEWARM (105oF), DELICATE CYCLE WASH WITH LIKE COLORS

USE NON-CHLORINE BLEACH ONLY, WHEN NEEDED TUMBLE DRY LOW HEAT

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS OR DRYER SHEETS DO NOT IRON LOGOS OR DRY CLEAN

3.6.2 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener on the left out seam (as worn) through the top of the waistband. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials "UPC" shall appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so it is completely visible on the item when it is fo1ded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the item. This UPC code shall also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.6.3 Navy Certification program garments only. Contracts under Navy Certification By-laws are to have the following labels:

3.6.3.1 Manufacturing labels. Each trunk shall have a label containing the manufacturer’s name, country of origin, manufacturer’s registered identification number (RN#), and fiber content. These labels may be placed in accordance with the manufacturer’s commercial practice. No external manufacturer’s labels shall be visible on the outside of the garment.

3.6.3.2 Certification label. Each trunk shall have a certification label located on the inside of the bottom hem and shall read as follows:

“This garment is warranted to meet or exceed the standard of document NCTRF PD 17-15 and was produced under Certificate No. XXXXXX-XXXXXX-XXX-XX from basic materials and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate” (Example) A label shall be included stating the date of manufacture (month and year), 01-17 (Example)

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Outer shell. The stitching for the leg hems shall be double turned and finish 1/4 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg.

3.7.2 Liner. The crotch panel seams shall finish to the inside between the plies. The leg hems shall finish 3/8 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg.

3.7.3 Waistband. The finish stitching of the waistband shall be four (4) rows, 1-inch gauge double needle stitched (1/4-inch gauge) and accommodate the tunnel for the draw-cord. The chain stitching on the waistband shall be secured by a single needle lock stitch, through all layers, catching all four (4) rows of chain stitching, back-tacked at the beginning and end. The tunnel opening for the draw-cord shall be a horizontal buttonhole on the inside center of the waistband. See Figure 5. The buttonhole for the draw-cord opening shall be a minimum of 42 stitches and the cut opening shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inches in length. The horizontal opening shall fall in the middle of the four (4) rows of chain stitching. The opening shall not cut through the waistband stitching.

3.7.4 Side hanging pockets. The trunks shall have outseam side hanging pockets. See Figure 4. The pockets shall have a 6 (+ 1/4) inch opening. The top and bottom of the openings shall be bar- tacked through all layers without catching liner and finished with 1/4-inch top stitching. The bar- tacks shall extend over out seam a minimum of 1-2 stitches, the topstitching shall not extend past the top and bottom bar-tacks. The pocket opening shall be positioned with the top bar-tack 3-1/4 (+ 1/4) inches from the top folded edge of the waistband. The side pockets shall be constructed with the basic fabric as the bottom ply (against body) and the liner fabric as the top ply (against trunks). Front pocket lining material shall not be visible.

3.7.5 Bar-tacks. Bar-tacks (6) shall consist of a minimum of 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches, shall be 3/8 inches in length, and shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. A horizontal bar-tack shall be located at the top and bottom of each side pocket openings and at the top of each vented opening. The bar-tack at the crotch joining seam shall be located along the inseam where it meets the seat seam stitching and placed between the chain and overedge stitch of the safety stitch. The bar-tack shall be horizontal and 1 inch long.

3.7.6 Buttonholes. The waistband shall have one (1) horizontal buttonhole opening for the draw-cord to exit. See Figure 5. The buttonhole shall be located on the inside of the waistband at the center front positioned between the rows of topstitching. The buttonholes shall be a minimum of 42 stitches and finished inside cut length shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inches in length.

3.7.7 Vented opening. The finished slit opening shall be 2 (±1/4) inches length as measured from the finished hem to the top of vent opening. The top of the vent shall be bar-tacked at apex of vent opening across out seam through all layers without catching the liner. The slit vents shall be clean finished.

3.7.8 ID/key pocket. The trunks shall have an internal ID/key pocket adjacent to backside of the right out seam (as indicated on the patterns) and caught in the waistband stitching. The ID/key pocket shall finish approximately 2-1/4 (+1/4, -1/8) inches wide by 3-1/2 (+1/4, -1/8) inches long with a 1-1/4 (± 1/4) inch top folded over to encase the pocket.

3.8 Lettering for reflective heat transfer logo placement (Type I and II). The reflective heat transfer markings of the “NAVY” logos shall be placed on the lower left leg front side in accordance with placement markings on the patterns. The “NAVY” logo shall be produced to match the dimensions in Drawing 02-NCTRF-15 and placed in accordance with Table IV. See Figure 3.

TABLE IV. Lettering placement (inches)

XX-

Large

XXX-

Large

A-1. Measure from bottom of shorts hem up to bottom right corner of logo. B-1. Measure from out seam to top right corner of logo.

3.9 Figures. Figures 1 through 5 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.10 Patterns. Standard patterns, which show size, directional lines, placement marks, and notches for assembly, except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government. The Government pattern shall not be altered in any way and shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to the contractor’s working pattern where necessary when using automatic equipment or production processes. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this document. The Government patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams without trimming.

3.10.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the trunks shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts listed in Table V.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts

Basic Material

Liner Material

3.11 Stitches and seams. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. Thread ends shall be secured by a minimum of 1/2-inch backstitched or 1/2-inch overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Seaming repairs for shells and liners shall use the respective specified thread from 3.4.7 and 3.4.8. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/8-inch minimum and all loose thread shall be removed. Raw edges are not acceptable anywhere on the garment. All 301 stitching shall be 10-12 stitches per inch. For double needle stitching (stitch type 401 and 602) the stitches per inch shall be 8-10 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching (stitch type 503, 504 and 516), the stitches per inch shall be a minimum of 8-12. (Bar-tacks shall consist of a minimum of 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches and be 3/8-inch in length).

This section intentionally left blank

Table VI. Stitch and seam types

Basic Shell Material

Liner

Waistband Assembly

3.12 Shade and size marking. The component parts may be marked or ticketed to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the garment production. Corrosive metal fastening devices, sewn on shade tickets, and adhesive type tickets whose adhesive causes discoloration or adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets shall not be used. All shade and manufacturing tickets shall be removed on the completed item.

3.13 Finished measurements. The trunks shell and liner shall conform to the finished measurements (given in inches) in Table VII.

This section intentionally left blank

TABLE VII. Finished measurements, shell and liner (inches)

Size Trunks Type I

Size Trunks Type II

3.13.1 Method of inspection. The measurements shall be taken with Trunks laid flat but not stretched. Refer to Figures 1 and 2 for measuring points.

Shell

(A) Waist relaxed. Measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge at top of waistband (See Figure 1).

(B) Waist stretched. Measurement taken with the waistband elastic fully extended from folded edge to folded edge at top of waist band (See Figure 1).

(C) Out seam: Measurement taken from top of waistband to bottom hem (See Figure 1).

(D) Inseam. Measurement taken from crotch seam down inseam to bottom hem (See Figure 1).

(E) Hip. Measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge, 3 inches up from crotch seam (See Figure 1).

(F) Leg opening. Measurement taken from folded edge to bottom of vent (See Figure 1).

Liner

(G) Out seam. Measurement taken from bottom of inside waistband to bottom hem (See Figure 2).

(H) Leg opening relaxed. Measurement taken at hem from folded edge to folded (See Figure 2).

(I) Hip. Measurement taken across the front from folded edge to folded edge at crotch/gusset joint seam (See Figure 2).

(J) Rise total. Measurement taken from center front waistband seam to front gusset seam, gusset width, and center back waistband seam to back gusset seam. Add dimensions for total rise measurement. There is no figure for J dimension.

3.14 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.2).

3.15 Workmanship. Each finished trunks shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. Each finished trunks shall be examined prior to folding for packaging and shall be free from all defects as specified in Table VIII which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. First article, submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for design, configuration in Tables III, IV, V, and VI overall workmanship. The first article shall also include the finished measurements in Table VII, examination for defects in Table VIII, and testing in Tables IX and X, 4.4.2 and 4.4.3. The presence of excessive defects, as defined in the contract (see 6.2) or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include shade and appearance of all components, finished measurements in Table VII, examination for defects in Table VIII and testing in Tables IX and X, 4.4.2 and 4.4.3. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 End item visual examination. Each trunk shall be subjected to visual examination. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table VIII, which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the trunks. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VIII. Visual Examination defects

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, thin place or shade bar.

Any part required to be cut from one piece on material shaded. 1/

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment. Thread ends not trimmed to a minimum of 1/8- inch throughout garment, any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable.

Objective odor.

Heat transfer color not as specified, consistent, peeling, delaminated, cracking, incomplete, lettering edges not clearly defined or not aligned parallel to bottom of leg hems.

Plate marks around front or back logo extending more than 1/4-inch from edge of logo.

Any draw-cord omitted.

Any draw-cord insufficient in length.

Letters misplaced, smeared, wrinkled, not cleanly or neatly applied.

TABLE VIII. Visual examination defects – Continued

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching.

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch.

Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or back-tacked less than 1/2-inch.

Gauge of stitching uneven or not as specified.

Raw edge, missing, broken or skipped stitches. 3/

· more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inch

· more than 2-inch Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching).

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches. 3/

· one (1) stitch

· two (2) or more stitches More than maximum specified.

More than one (1) but less than five (5) on any one item

Any bar-tack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

· more than two (2)

· less than two (2) Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken Length or width not as specified.

Not attached to location specified. Causes damage to the garment.

Tagless label visible on outside of garment.

1/ Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of three feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

2/ Evenness can be determined by comparing measurements or companion parts OR by aligning parts and measuring the difference in lengths as described below. When evenness defects are found, the uniform shall be laid flat on a measuring surface and the difference in lengths recorded.

· Inseam. Shall be aligned with inseam along the top edge, starting from the center of the crotch seam along the inseam down to the hem edge. The aligned shell legs shall be inspected for evenness of the leg length.

· Outseam. Shall be aligned by folding trunks in half width wise following the folded edge of the shell legs and aligning the top of the waistband. The aligned shell legs shall be inspected for evenness of the leg length. The folded trunks shall be turned vertically to enable alignment of the bottom opening widths for comparison.

· Inseam/Outseam Length. While measuring inseam, the uniformity in length between inseam and outseam shall be inspected for evenness.

3/ One of more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open.

Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

4.4.2 Component testing. The components shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IX.

TABLE IX. Component tests

Basic Cloth- Shell

Yarns per inch Warp Filling

Breaking strength Warp Filling

Tearing strength Warp Filling

Dimensional stability (After 5 launderings) Warp Filling

3.4.1

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 1/

TABLE IX. Component tests - Continued

Basic Cloth- Shell

Colorfastness: Laundering (5 cycles) Light (170 kilojoules or 40 hrs.) Crocking (Dry/wet) Perspiration (acid/alkaline) Water – chlorinated pool

3.4.1 3.4.1 3.4.1 3.4.1 3.4.1

AATCC 61 Test 2A 2/ AATCC 16.2 or 16.3 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15 2/

AATCC 162 3/

Liner, ID/Key pocket cloth

Dimensional stability After 5 launderings Wales Courses

3.4.2

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 1/

Colorfastness: Laundering (5 cycles) Crocking Perspiration Water – chlorinated pool

3.4.2 3.4.2 3.4.2 3.4.2

AATCC 61, Test 2A 2/ AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15 2/

AATCC 162 3/

Anti-microbial Migratory Initial After 25 launderings Non-migratory Initial After 25 launderings

3.4.2 3.4.2

3.4.2 3.4.2 AATCC 100, ASTM E2149 and AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 7/

TABLE IX. Component tests – Continued

Webbing, elastic Weight Width Elongation Colorfastness/Discoloration tests: same tests as specified for basic material shell

3.4.3 3.4.3 3.4.3 3.4.3

ASTM D3776 ASTM D3774 ASTM D4964

Same test methods as specified for basic material shell

Draw-cord Width/diameter Fiber identification Weight (oz./lin.yd.) Color Colorfastness tests: same tests as specified for basic material shell

3.4.4 3.4.4 3.4.4 3.4.4 3.4.4

Visual/micrometer 6/ AATCC 20 or ASTM D276 ASTM D3776 Option D Visual Same test methods as specified for basic material shell

Thread Color Colorfastness tests: same tests as specified for basic material shell and liner

3.4.7 and 3.4.8

Visual Same test methods as specified for basic material shell and liner

Reflective Logo material Reflective properties

3.4.6

ANSI 107-2010 Level 2 8/

Label After 50 launderings

3.6

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 3/, 8/

1/ The samples shall be tumble dried on a permanent press cycle with a medium heat setting. The samples shall be evaluated after five cycles.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Only one specimen per sample unit is required and rated. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale 5/ The finished cloth shall exhibit no dermatological or toxic effects to the users. The supplier is responsible for certification that the finished product is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provide sufficient toxicity data to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact.

6/ Using tensile testing machine (in accordance with ASTM D5034) at 2 inches/minute, either pull-up cord on stationary engaged cord-lock or vice-versa.

7/ The antimicrobial treated fabric shall be evaluated for Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae to determine anti-microbial activity. Testing shall be in accordance with AATCC 100 for all migratory anti-bacterial treatments and ASTM E 2149 when the material is hydrophobic and is non- migratory anti-bacterial treated. A minimum requirement of 99.00% reduction after 24 hours initially and after 25 launderings when tested in accordance with AATCC 135 (3) IV Aiii. Testing shall be conducted at an AATCC/ASTM approved laboratory. A certificate of compliance is required.

8/ First Article only

4.4.3 End item testing (all types). The finished trunks shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table X. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be one (1) trunks for all physical and chemical tests. The sample size shall be five (5) trunks. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE X. End item testing (all types)

Reflective material adhesion After 50 launderings Cracking and peeling

3.4.6.1 and 4.5.1

3.4.6.1 and 4.5.1

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 1/, 3/ Visual

1/ First Article only 2/ Only one specimen per sample unit is required and rated. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

4.5 Reflectivity of marking material. Reflective logos shall be testing in accordance to Table IX.

4.5.1 Reflective marking material adhesion. The reflective marking material for the logos shall be tested to ensure appropriate adhesion to the basic material used in the trunks. The material shall be tested in accordance to 4.4.2, Table X.

4.6 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloth and components shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight and have a correlated color temperature of 7500 +/- 200 K with illumination of 100 +/- 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A lamplight at 2856 +/- 200 K.

4.7 Toxicity test. When required, an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3.1) If the requirement (see 3.14) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity may not be required.

5 PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in- house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6 NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

6.1 Intended use. The trunks are for wear by military personnel in the United States Navy as part of a physical fitness uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document

b. Types and sizes required (see 1.2)

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government drawing(s). (see 2.3)

e. When the first article sample is required (see 3.1 and 4.2)

f. Packaging required (see 5.1)

g. Specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.1, 2.2)

h. Conformance inspection quality acceptance limits (see 4.3)

i. When anti-microbial testing is required. (see 3.4.2, 4.4.2)

j. Name and address of the testing/inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the testing/inspection program.

k. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.14, 4.4.2, 4.4.3, 4.7)

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Source of Government documents. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth and/or Navy buttons, etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile website for their Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form, http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx, Choose Pages > Spec Request. Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.5 Reflective source of supply. Safe Reflections Inc.

3220 Granada Ave N. Suite 100 St. Paul, MN 55128-3550

6.6 Lining material source of supply. Cyberknit

315 W. 39th Street Suite 709, New York NY

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing. Physical Fitness

Nylon Trunks

DLA-CT

FIGURE 1. Trunks, Navy Physical Fitness Uniform, Front

FIGURE 2. Trunks, Navy Physical Fitness Uniform, Liner, Back

Placement of Lettering (in inches) (A-1) 2-1/4 (± 1/2) (B-1) See 3.8.

FIGURE 3. Trunks, Navy, Physical Fitness Uniform, “NAVY” Lettering, Front

FIGURE 4. Trunks, Navy, Physical Fitness Uniform, Side

FIGURE 5. Trunks, Navy, Physical Fitness Uniform, Inner Buttonhole/Draw-cord Detail, Front image1.png image2.jpeg image3.jpeg image4.jpeg image5.jpeg