GL-PD_13-06C_Trunks_7_January_15_(2).pdf

GL/PD 13-06C

7 January 2015

SUPERSEDING

GL/PD 13-06B

18 March 2014

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TRUNKS, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the trunks, physical fitness uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The trunks will be available in one (1) type in the following sizes:

1.2.1 Sizes. The trunks sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large

Note: the above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: US Army

Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, 15 Kansas Street, Natick, MA

01760-5019 Attn: RDNS-SEW-EWC

FSC 8415

INCH-POUND

GL/PD-13-06C

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://assist.dla.mil/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600

Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 70 - Dynamic Absorption

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Launderings

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

https://assist.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/ http://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D276 - Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling

Pendulum (Elmendorf- Type) Apparatus

ASTM D2594 - Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having

Low Power

ASTM D3512 - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface

Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3887 - Tolerance for knitted fabrics

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM

INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA

19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure –

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted here or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Standard sample.

3.3.1 Basic material. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic cloths.

3.4.1.1 Shell. The basic cloth for the trunks shall be plain weave 100 percent (%) polyester micro denier, jet dyed, with a sand washed finish and shall be engineered with a durable moisture management finish. The color of the basic cloth shall be Army black 557 and shall conform to the requirements in Table I.

TABLE I. Physical requirements for basic cloth

Characteristic Requirement

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 2.7 (± 0.3)

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp

Filling

Tear Strength (lbs.), (minimum)

Fill

2.0

4.0

Breaking strength (lbs.), (minimum)

Dimensional stability; percent, (maximum)

2.0

1.0

Pilling (minimum) 4-5

Colorfastness to: (minimum)

Laundering (3 cycles)

Color change

Staining

Light (170 kJ or 40 hrs)

Crocking

Dry

Wet

Perspiration

Alkaline

Acid

3-4

2-3

3.5

3.4.1.2 Liner, ID and key pockets. The basic cloth for the liner, ID and key pockets shall be

4-way stretch polyester/spandex pique knit. The cloth shall be 90 percent (%) polyester/ 10 percent (%) spandex (± 2 %). The cloth shall have moisture management capability. The color of the basic cloth for the liner, ID and key pockets shall be Army black 557 and shall conform to the requirements in Table II.

TABLE II. Physical requirements for liner, ID and key pocket cloth

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 4.8 (± 0.3)

Dynamic Absorption; percent, (minimum) 20

Stretch; percent (minimum)

Wales

Courses

Fabric Growth; percent (maximum)

Recovery; percent (minimum)

Dimensional stability; percent (maximum)

5.0

Colorfastness to Laundering: (3 cycles), (minimum)

Color change

Staining

Polyester

Nylon

Cotton

Colorfastness to Crocking (minimum)

Dry

Wet

Colorfastness to Light; 40 hrs (minimum) 3-4

Colorfastness to Perspiration (minimum)

Alkaline

Acid

3.4.1.3 Side panel insert. The basic cloth for the side panel insert shall be 2-way stretch polyester/spandex interlock knit. The fabric shall be a blend of 85 percent (%) polyester/15 percent (%) spandex (± 2%). The color for the side panel insert cloth shall be Army black 557 and shall conform to the requirements in Table III.

TABLE III. Physical requirements for side panel insert cloth

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 7.2 (±0.3)

Dimensional stability; percent (maximum)

Colorfastness to Laundering: (3 cycles), (minimum)

Color change

Staining

Polyester

Nylon

Cotton

Colorfastness to Crocking (minimum)

Dry

Wet

Colorfastness to Light; 40 hrs (minimum) 3-4

Stretch; percent (minimum)

Fabric Growth; percent (maximum)

Recovery; percent (minimum)

The basic material, liner and side panel insert materials shall be tested for characteristics listed in

Tables I, II and III. Sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

LOT SIZE (Yards) SAMPLE SIZE (Sample Units)

800 or less 2

801 up to including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

3.4.2 Webbing, elastic. All elastic webbing for the trunks shall be machine washable and dryable. The elastic shall be properly heat set and stabilized. The elastic for the waistband shall be 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inch in width, cotton, polyester or cotton/polyester blend with a separate draw cord.

3.4.3 Draw cord The draw cord shall be flat braid in tubular construction, cotton, polyester, or polyester/cotton, black in color and 1/4 (± 1/16) inch in width, with finished ends to prevent raveling. The ends of the draw cord shall be tied together in a knot approximately 1-inch from the end to prevent the barrel lock from coming off. Draw cord lengths shall be in accordance with Table IV.

TABLE IV. Waistband draw cord lengths (inches)

X-small - Small 50

Medium - Large 56

X-Large – XX-Large 62

XXX-Large 65

Tolerance ± 1/2

3.4.4 Barrel lock. The barrel locks for the waist draw cord shall maintain a 3-pound minimum holding strength on draw cord (see 3.4.3) when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.2. The barrel lock shall be 1/2-inch x 3/8-inch elliptical push button size to easily operate with gloves. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.2.

3.4.5 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester-covered in accordance with A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex Size 25-30. As an alternate, nylon thread in accordance with A-A-59826, Type I or II, Tex Size 21-23, (Government Size A), Class B Non-Wicking. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.2.

3.5 Seams and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM D 6193.

All seams shall start and finish evenly. All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4-inch.

Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted on trunks. All 301 stitching shall have a minimum 10 -12 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching (stitch type 502, and 514), the stitches per inch shall be a minimum 8-12. Bartacks shall consist of not less than 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches, be 3/8 to 1/2-inch in length, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All topstitching shall finish 1/16-inch from folded edge. All seams are required to lay flat and not protrude outward. Seams required to be forced out, and having a depth between the fold of 1/8-inch or more, shall be considered a defect. All stitching and seams shall be adjusted for tension in the sewing process such that the seam structure does not restrict stretch within any part of the trunks, including waistband, legs, and crotch panel. This shall be determined by stretching the seams to a reasonable maximum limit with no cracking of stitching, thread breakage or any overall limitation to stretch.

3.5.1 Outer shell. All joining seams shall be topstitched for strength. The bottom hems shall be overedged prior to hemming. The stitching for the leg hems shall finish 7/8 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg. The joining seams shall be seam type SSa-1 or SSa-2.

3.5.2 Liner. The seam type for joining the center panel of the liner shall be safety stitched type 515, 517 or 519, turned and topstitched with 301 lockstitch. The crotch panel seams shall finish to the inside between the plies. Crotch and seat seams shall be seamed with SSa-1 or SSa-

2 with same overedge types, top-stitched with stitch type 402 or 406, 1/8 to 3/16 gage, with looper thread serving as smooth cover stitch over center stitchline of overedge on outside of liner material facing body. The bottom hems for the liner shall be folded over with a 403 or 407 chainstitch covering. The leg hems shall finish 7/8 (± 1/8) inch from the bottom of the leg.

3.5.3 Waistband. The waistband shall be grown-on and finish 1-1/8 (+ 1/8) inches wide. The waistband shall be interlined with elastic webbing as specified in 3.4.2. The waistband shall have three (3) rows of topstitching; the first row is 1/8-inch from the top edge, the second row is 3/4-inch from the first and the third is 1/4-inch from the second. The waistband fullness shall be evenly distributed. The tunnel openings for the draw cord shall be two buttonholes (see 3.5.5) on the inside of the waistband at center front.

3.5.4 Bartacks. Bartacks (3) shall consist of not less than 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches, be 3/8 to 1/2-inch in length, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. A bartack shall be located at the center back of the waistband positioned vertically between the top and middle rows of topstitching to secure the draw cord. A horizontal bartack shall be located at the top each of the vented openings.

3.5.5 Buttonholes. The waistband shall have two (2) vertical buttonhole openings for the draw cord to exit. The buttonholes shall be located on the inside of the waistband at the center front positioned between the uppermost and middle rows of topstitching approximately 5/8 to

3/4- inches apart. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be 1/2 to 5/8-inches in length. When purl type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the waistband. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and ends shall be securely tacked.

3.6 Lettering. The lower left front shall have the word ‘ARMY’ in gold letters. The color of the lettering shall be a close match to Pantone 123C. The lettering shall be applied by heat transfer method or printing and shall not delaminate, crack, peel or change shade after twenty-five (25) laundering cycles when tested as specified in 4.4.2.2.

3.7 Labels. Each pair of trunks shall contain a size label, identification label and care instruction label. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and instruction label may be combined. The label shall be located inside the liner at the center back

1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches below the waist seam. The label shall show no signs of fading or delamination through 50 laundering cycles when laundered in accordance with AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, A, iii. A 2-inch by 3-inch white, blank rectangular label conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075 Type VI, shall be sewn horizontally to the back of the hanging key/change pocket. The label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides with the stitching 1/8 to 3/16 from the edge of the label.

3.7.1 Combination size/identification /care instruction label. The combination label shall be tag less conforming to Type III or Type IV, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be placed at the inside of the liner at the center back 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches below the waist seam. The label shall contain the following information:

SIZE

NSN

CONTRACT NUMBER

TRUNKS, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM (APFU)

100% POLYESTER

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

CARE INSTRUCTIONS:

Machine Wash Cold in mild detergent with like colors; Rinse Cold; Permanent Press cycle;

Tumble Dry Low

DO NOT USE BLEACH, FABRIC SOFTENER or DRYER SHEETS

DO NOT IRON, DO NOT DRY CLEAN

WARNING: The use of fabric softener will harm the moisture wicking properties of the trunks.

3.7.2 Bar code label. Each pair of trunks shall be individually bar coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener.

The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the trunks when folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the trunks. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.8 Design. The trunks shall be boxer style with a bike short liner and stretch side panel insert (see figures 1 and 2). The trunks shall have a covered elastic waistband with a draw cord exiting at the inside center front. The draw cord shall have a barrel lock for adjustability. The lower left front shall have the word “ARMY” in gold letters (see figure 3). Inside the waistband shall be a hanging key/change pocket. The lower left front of the liner shall have an identification card (ID) patch pocket with flap. The leg outseams shall have a vented opening at the bottom.

3.8.1 Liner. The liner shall be a full fitting bike short style. The liner shall have a 3/4 (±1/8) inch coverstitch hem. The liner shall be stitched to the shell at the waist with all seams facing away from the wearer.

3.8.2 Vented opening. The vented openings shall be 2-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches in length. The vertical hems of the vented opening shall be overedged prior to hemming. The hem may be a single fold with one row of topstitching 3/8 (± 1/16) inch from fold, or as an alternative, the front vertical hem, of the basic cloth, may be double folded and double topstitched. When using the double folded construction method the overedging may be eliminated. Each vented opening shall have a horizontal bartack at the top, through all layers without catching the liner.

3.8.3 Key/change pocket. The trunks shall have an internal key/change pocket located on the inside right front, positioned horizontally such that the opening is vertical; centered between the front and side seams and caught in the waistband stitching. The edges of the key/change pocket opening shall be overedged prior to hemming. The opening for the key/change pocket shall be closer to the side seam. The key/change pocket shall finish 2-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide by 4 (±

1/8) inches long with a 1-1/2-inch envelope style top fold over on one end to encase the pocket.

3.8.4 Identification (ID) card patch pocket. The trunks liner shall have an identification (ID) card patch pocket on the left front thigh. See patterns for placement. The pocket shall finish 2-

1/4 to 2-1/2-inches wide by 4-inches (±1/4) long with a 1-3/8 (±1/8) inch envelope style top fold to encase the pocket. The upper edge of the pocket portion shall be overedged prior to hemming.

The bottom of the pocket shall be caught in the hem. On the finished garment the ID pocket shall be positioned approximately 1(±1/4) inch from folded edge (outseam).

3.9 Figures. Figures 1 through 3 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.10 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns and shall not be altered in any way. The patterns for the shell provide 3/8-inch seam allowance.

The patterns for the liner provide 1/4-inch seam allowance.

3.10.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the trunks shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts listed in Table V.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts

Material Pattern

Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic cloth –shell (see 3.4.1.1)

Back PD13_06-BACK 2

Front PD13_06-FRONT 2

Liner, ID and Key pocket cloth (see 3.4.1.2)

Left liner PD13_06-LEFT_LINER 1

Right liner PD13_06-RIGHT_LINER 1

Front liner PD13_06-FRONT_LINER 2

Back liner PD13_06-BACK_LINER 2

Center liner PD13_06-CENTER_LINER 2

ID pocket PD13_06-IDPOCKET 1

ID pocket flap PD13_06-IDPKT_FLAP 1

Waistband pocket PD13_06-WSTBAND_PKT 1

Side Panel Insert cloth (see 3.4.1.3)

Side panel PD13_06-SIDE_PANEL 2

3.10.2 Finished measurements. The trunks shell shall conform to the finished measurements

(given in inches) in Table VI when measured as specified in Table VII.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements, shell (inches)

Sizes 1/2 Waist relaxed

1/2 Waist stretched

Front

Rise

Back

Rise Outseam Inseam

1/2

Thigh

Side

Panel

Width

Vent

X-Small 12-1/2 17-1/2 11-7/8 15-1/8 16-1/4 5 13-3/4 2 2-1/2

Small 14 19 12-3/8 15-3/4 16-3/4 5-1/4 14-3/4 2 2-1/2

Medium 15-1/2 20-1/2 13 16-1/4 17-1/4 5-1/4 15-3/4 2 2-1/2

TABLE VI. Finished measurements, shell (inches) – Continued

Sizes

1/2

Waist relaxed

1/2

Waist stretched

Front

Rise

Back

Rise Outseam Inseam

1/2

Thigh

Side

Panel

Width

Vent

Large 17 22 13-5/8 16-3/4 17-3/4 5-1/4 16-3/4 2 2-1/2

X-Large 18-1/2 23-1/2 14-1/8 17-1/4 18-1/4 5-1/4 17-3/4 2 2-1/2

XX-Large 20 25 14-3/4 17-3/4 19-3/4 6-1/4 18-3/4 2 2-1/2

XXX-

Large 21-1/2 26-1/2 15-3/8 18-1/4 20-1/4 6-1/4 19-3/4 2 2-1/2

Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4

TABLE VII. Method of measuring

Location Method

1/2 Waist (relaxed) Measure across top of trunks with waist laying flat, relaxed, from folded edge to folded edge.

1/2 Waist

(stretched)

Measure across top of trunks with waist lying flat, stretched.

Front Rise Measure along front center seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

Back Rise Measure along back center seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

Outseam Measure along the back side seam (seam without vent opening) from top of trunks to the hem.

Inseam Measure from crotch to bottom of hem along seam.

1/2 Thigh Measure parallel to leg opening from crotch point to outside fold of leg.

Side Panel Width Measure width of side panel insert from out seam to out seam above the vent opening.

Vent Measure from top of opening to bottom of hem.

3.10.3 Finished measurements liner. The trunks liner shall conform to the finished measurements (given in inches) in Tables VIII when measured as specified in Table IX.

TABLE VIII. Finished measurements, liner (inches)

Size

Leg opening

Inseam Outer leg

1/2 Thigh width

Panel width

X-Small 7-1/4 4-1/4 15 8-3/4 3

Small 8 4-1/4 15-1/2 9-1/2 3

Medium 8-3/4 4-1/4 16 10-1/4 3

Large 9-1/2 4-1/4 16-1/2 11 3

X-Large 10-1/4 4-1/4 17 11-3/4 3

XX-Large 11-1/4 5-1/4 17-1/2 12-1/2 3

XXX-Large 12-1/4 5-1/4 18 13-1/4 3

Tolerance ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/4

TABLE IX. Method of measuring

Location Method

Leg Opening Measure across the bottom of leg hem from folded edge to folded edge.

Inseam Measure from joining seam of panel to folded edge along seam.

Outer Leg Measure from top of waistband to hem along folded edge of leg

1/2 Thigh Width Take measurement at crotch level perpendicular from panel joining seam to outer leg fold.

Panel Width Measure from seam to seam at crotch.

3.11 Toxicity. The finished trunks shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.12 Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the trunks shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed prior to packaging. The trunks shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The trunks shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

c. Component and end item inspection (see 4.4.1).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects as specified in 4.4 and 4.5 and tested for the characteristics as specified in Tables X, XI and XII.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.4 through 4.6 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see

6.2).

4.4.1 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.2 Component testing.

4.4.2.1 Basic material. The basic material physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table X.

TABLE X. Physical requirements for basic materials

Characteristic Requirement

Paragraph Test Method

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 3.4.1.1 Table I,

3.4.1.2 Table II,

3.4.1.3 Table III

ASTM D3776 Option C

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp

Filling

3.4.1.1 Table I

ASTM D3775

Tear Strength; lbs. (minimum)

Warp

Fill

3.4.1.1 Table I

ASTM D1424

Breaking strength; lbs. (minimum)

Warp

Filling

3.4.1.1 Table I

ASTM D5034

Dynamic Absorption; percent

(minimum)

3.4.1.2 Table II

AATCC 70

Stretch; percent (minimum)

Wales

Courses

3.4.1.2 Table II,

3.4.1.3 Table III ASTM D2594 1/

Fabric Growth; percent (maximum)

Wales

Courses

3.4.1.2 Table II,

3.4.1.3 Table III ASTM D2594 2/

Recovery; percent (minimum)

Wales

Courses

3.4.1.2 Table II,

3.4.1.3 Table III

ASTM D2594 3/

Dimensional stability; 3 cycles, percent, (maximum)

3.4.1.1 Table I

AATCC 135 4/

Dimensional stability; 3 cycles, percent (maximum)

Wales

Courses

3.4.1.2 Table II,

3.4.1.3 Table III

AATCC 135 4/

Pilling 3.4.1.1 Table I ASTM D3512

TABLE X. Physical requirements for basic materials - Continued

Paragraph

Test Method

Colorfastness to

Laundering; 3 cycles (minimum)

Color Change and Staining

Light(170 kJ or 40 hrs) (minimum)

Crocking (minimum)

Wet and Dry

3.4.1.1 Table I,

3.4.1.2 Table II,

3.4.1.3 Table III

AATCC 61 Opt. 1A 5/

AATCC 16.3 6/

AATCC 8 7/

Colorfastness to Perspiration

(minimum)

Alkaline and Acid

3.4.1.1 Table I,

3.4.1.2 Table II

AATCC 15 5/

1/ 5/ ASTM D 2594; Fabric Stretch %; 5 cycles, 5 lb. load

2/ 6/ ASTM D 2594; Fabric Growth %, 1 hour recovery; Table 1 Loose Fitting (Comfort

Stretch).

3/ 7/ ASTM D 2594; Fabric Recovery %, after 1 hour; Table 1 Loose Fitting (Comfort

Stretch)

4/ Laundering and drying conditions using AATCC 135 Table I, method 3, III, A, iii

5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

6/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

7/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale

4.4.2.2 Component testing. The component requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table XI.

TABLE XI. Component testing

Characteristic Requirement

Paragraph Test Method

Webbing, elastic

Width

3.4.2

ASTM D3774

Drawcord

Width/diameter

Fiber identification

Weight (oz/lin. Yd.)

Color

3.4.3

Visual/micrometer

AATCC 20 or ASTM D276

ASTM D3776

Visual

Barrel Lock

Holding Strength

Color

3.4.4

1/

4.5.3

Thread: Shell & Liner

Color

3.4.5 A-A-50199 & A-A-59826

Visual

Lettering

Delamination

Color shade matching

3.6 AATCC 135 2/

Visual

3/

1/ The barrel lock holding strength shall be tested as follows:

Using tensile testing machine (in accordance with ASTM D 5034) at 2-inches/minute, either pull-up cord on stationary engaged cord-lock or vice-versa (see above illustration.)

2/ Laundering and drying conditions using AATCC 135 Table I, method 3, III, A, iii

3/ AATCC Evaluation procedure 9 under D75 lighting conditions

4.5 Examination.

4.5.1 End item examination. The finished examination, sample size, acceptance quality limits and acceptance criteria shall be specified in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

4.5.2 End item visual examination. Each pair of trunks shall be subjected to visual examination. All defects shall be scored in accordance with Table XII which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the trunks. Material defects are defined in Section 1 of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.

4.5.2.1 Visual examination defects. The trunks shall be examined for the defects as listed below in Table XII.

TABLE XII. Defects

Examination Defect Classification

Major Minor

Material Defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub

Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness

Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment

Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment

Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

TABLE XII. Defects - Continued

Major Minor

Component and assembly

Any defective component 1/

Any component part omitted

Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Drawcord Any drawcord caught in tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord

Any drawcord omitted

Any drawcord insufficient in length

Any barrel lock omitted

ARMY lettering

“ARMY” letters misplaced, smeared, wrinkled, not cleanly or neatly applied

Design not as specified

Finished height or width of design not as specified.

Position not as specified

Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect

Incorrectly placed or attached

Letters misplaced, smeared, wrinkled, not cleanly or neatly applied

Accuracy of seaming Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch

Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2-inch

Color not as specified

Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified

Open seams More than 1/8-inch up to 1/4-inch

More than 1/4-inch

NOTE: One (1) or more broken or two (2) or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

Seams and stitching Not specified seam or stitch type

Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

TABLE XII. Defects - Continued

Major Minor

Stitch Tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inch

- more than 2-inch

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching)

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- one (1) stitch

- two (2) or more stitches

More than maximum specified

Repairs More than five (5) repairs on any one item 1/ 125 222

Shaded Part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/

Any part required to be cut from one piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3-feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Leg Lengths Leg lengths of shell or liner uneven by 1/4-inch or more.

Bartacks Bartack omitted

Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

- more than two (2)

- (2) two or less

Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken

Length or width not as specified

Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI)) omitted or illegible

Not attached to location specified

Causes damage to the garment

Packaging Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 1/

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as minor when affecting serviceability but not seriously.

4.5.3 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloths and components shall match the standard sample using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A or C, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (± 200)°K illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200)°K.

4.5.4 Finished measurements. The finished measurements as specified in Tables VI for the shell and Table VIII for the liner shall be verified by measuring the garment according to the methods in Table VII for the shell and Table IX for the liner.

4.6 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of the studies indicate the fabric is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3)

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the

Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense

Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-

ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

6.1 Intended use. The trunks are for wear by military personnel in the United States Army as part of a physical fitness uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document

b. Type and sizes required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2)

d. When the first article sample is required (see 3.1 and 4.2)

e. Toxicity requirements (see 3.11 and 4.6)

f. Conformance inspection quality acceptance limits (see 4.3)

g. Packaging and packing requirements (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to standard samples for shade and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Athletic wear

Clothing

Shorts

6.6 Known sources.

6.6.1 Basic material. Burlington Worldwide, 804 Green Valley Road, suite 300 Greensboro, NC 27408.

6.6.2 Liner and side panel insert material. Almack Liners, Inc. 9541 Cozycroft Ave., Chatsworth, CA 91311.

FIGURE 1. Trunks, Army Physical Fitness Uniform, Front, Side and Back Views

FIGURE 2. Trunks, Army Physical Fitness Uniform, Liner views

Size and placement of Lettering (in inches):

(A) 4 (± 1/8)

(B) 1-3/8 (± 1/8)

(C) 1-1/4 (± 1/4) Lettering shall be parallel (± 1/8) inch to hem

(D) 2-1/2 (± 1/4)

FIGURE 3. Trunks, Army, Physical Fitness Uniform, “ARMY” Lettering

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army-GL DLA- GL