GL-PD_13-04A_Unisex_Jacket_3-19-2014.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 13-04A

19 March 2014

SUPERSEDING

GL/PD 13-04

1 November 2013

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, UNISEX, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the jacket, physical fitness uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Army

1.2 Classification. The jacket will be available in one (1) type in the following sizes:

1.2.1 Sizes. The Unisex Jacket sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Short Short Regular Long X-long

X-Small X-Small X-Small X-Small -

Small Small Small Small -

Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium

- Large Large Large Large

- X-large X-Large X-Large X-Large

- XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large

- XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large -

Note: the above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: US Army Natick

Solider Research, Development and Engineering Center, 15 Kansas Street, Natick, MA 01760-

5019 attn: RDNS-SEW-EWC

FSC 8415

GL-PD 13-04A

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://assist.dla.mil/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600

Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

https://assist.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon

AATCC Test Method 22 - Water Repellency – Spray Test

AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 118 - Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launderings

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile

Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600

North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3774 - Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles-Constant

Rate-of Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM E96 - Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM

INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-

2959.)

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure –

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted here or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Standard sample.

3.3.1 Basic material. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.3.2 Embroidered logo. The finished embroidery on left front shall match the embroidery file for size, stitch count, and finished appearance. Embroidery file may be obtained from the contracting activity. The gold color of the embroidery thread shall be a close match to Pantone

123C and the white shall be bright white.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the jacket shall be plain weave 70 denier nylon

6,6 (or equivalent). The basic material shall be the color Army black 557. The material shall be treated with a Schoeller Nanosphere® technology (or equivalent) (see 6.7) for resistance to water and organic liquids, quick drying moisture management capability, and shall conform to the requirements in Table I. Shade and finished seconds of the same basic material may be used for the elbow reinforcement patches only. Seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for shade and finishing failures only, and shall meet all physical requirements specified for basic material when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1.

http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.4.2 V-Stripe. The basic material for the V-stripe shall be a plain weave 70 denier nylon 6,6

(or equivalent). The V-stripe material shall be cut on the bias and the color shall be Army gold

558. The material shall be treated with a Schoeller Nanosphere® technology (or equivalent) (see

6.7) for resistance to water and organic liquids, quick drying moisture management capability, and shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1.

TABLE I. Physical requirements for basic material

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, Basic material (oz./sq. yd.) 3.5 (± 0.3)

Weight, V-Stripe (oz./sq.yd) 3.5 (± 0.3)

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp

Filling

Breaking strength (lbs.),(minimum)

Dimensional stability (percent) (maximum)

4.0

Colorfastness (minimum)

Laundering

Light (170 kJ or 40 hrs)

(Basic material/V stripe)

Crocking (Dry/wet)

3.0/2.5

4.0/4.0

Water resistance (minimum)

Initial

After 10 and 20 launderings

After 30 and 40 launderings

After 50 launderings

After 60, 70, 80, 90 launderings

After 100 launderings

Moisture vapor transmission rate

(g/sq.m /24 hour, initial)

Inverted (minimum)

Upright (minimum)

Oil Repellency-Hydrocarbon Resistance

(minimum)

Initial

After 100 launderings

3.4.3 Lining. The lining for the jackets shall be nylon (mini-mesh). The color shall be black.

The material shall conform to the requirements in Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.2.2.

TABLE II. Physical requirements for lining

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 2.9 (± 0.2)

Width, meshes per inch (minimum)

Length, meshes per inch (minimum)

Bursting strength (pounds) (minimum) 120

Dimensional stability (Percent)

(maximum)

Wales

Courses

Colorfastness to laundering (minimum) 4.0

The basic material and lining shall be tested for characteristics listed in Tables I and II, using the methods of testing specified therein. Sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width.

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

LOT SIZE (Yards) SAMPLE SIZE (Sample Units)

800 or less 2

801 up to including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

3.4.4 Pocketing. The material for the front slash pockets shall be medium weight brushed fabric, machine washable and dryable, and suitable for the intended purpose. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.5 Interlining. The material for interlining the collar, V-stripe, pocket welts, and sleeve hems shall be non-fusible, 3.0 (± 0.2) ounces per square yard. Testing shall be as specified in

4.4.2.3.

3.4.6 Cord, elastic (draw cord). The elastic draw cord shall be 1/8 (+ 1/32, -0) inch diameter.

The elastic cord properties shall be as follows: weight 0.20 oz/linear yard, elongation 120 (± 10) percent, 55 picks/inch minimum, 16 carrier, 12 elastic strands minimum and polyester cover yarn.

The color shall be black. The ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling. Draw cord lengths shall be in accordance with Table III. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

TABLE III. Draw cord lengths (inches)

Size Cut Length

X-Small 50-1/2

Small 53-1/2

Medium 56-1/2

Large 59-1/2

X-Large 62-1/2

XX-Large 64-1/2

XXX-Large 66-1/2

Tolerance ± 1/2

3.4.7 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class 1 of A-A-55126. As an alternate Type II, Class 3 may be used. The width of the hook and loop tape shall be 3/4-inch. The length of the hook tape shall be 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches. The length of the loop tape shall be 4 (± 1/8) inches. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.8 Tape, webbing. The webbing tape for barrel locks keeper and pocket thongs shall conform to MIL-PRF-5038 except that it shall be 1/4 (± 1/16) inch wide. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.9 Slide fasteners/ zippers. The slide fasteners/ zippers shall conform to A-A-55634, and the color of the chain, tape, slider and pull of all slide fasteners shall be black. The slide fasteners for the jacket front closure shall conform to Type III, size 5-7, Style 8. The separating unit shall be left hand, plastic, individual element chain with a 100 pound (average) crosswise breaking strength, single locking slider, with a long tab pull. The front slash pocket slide fasteners shall conform to Type I, size 5-7, style 3, plastic, individual element chain, with a long tab pull.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.10 Slide fastener thongs.

3.4.10.1 Front opening. The slide fastener for the front opening shall be furnished with a one

(1) piece injection molded thong, GT Alpha Zipline style 864-0200A (or equivalent). The thong shall be capable of 80 pound tensile loads. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.10.2 Pockets. The slide fasteners for the slash pockets shall be furnished with a thong of sufficient length to measure 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches when attached to the slide fastener pull-tab. The thongs shall conform to MIL-PRF-5038 (or equivalent) except that they shall be 1/4-inch wide, or a self fabric thong may be used. The color shall be black. Ends of the thongs shall be seared or dipped in a colorless, noncombustible resin (see 6.6.4). A thong shall be attached to each slider tab pull as follows: Thread one (1) end of the thong through the end of each pull-tab and with ends even, bartack together with one (1) vertical bartack, positioned midway on the thong.

3.4.11 Barrel lock. The barrel locks for the waist draw cord shall maintain a 3-pound minimum holding strength on elastic cord (see 3.4.6) when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.3. The barrel lock shall be 1/2-inch x 3/8-inch elliptical push button size to easily operate with gloves.

The barrel lock shall also provide/possess a separate fixed location for attachment of the webbings specified in 3.4.8. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.12 Barrel lock keeper. The keeper for attaching the barrel lock shall be sewn to the inside of the jacket, at the hem, within the side seams. The keeper shall be of sufficient length to measure 1/2 (± 1/8) inch when threaded through the barrel lock. Testing shall be as specified in

4.4.2.3.

3.4.13 Cannon clip. The waist adjustment assembly shall have a cannon clip (or equivalent) attached to the loop of draw cord that passes through the barrel lock to prevent the draw cord from coming free of the barrel lock. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.14 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester-covered in accordance with A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex Size 31-35. As an alternate, nylon thread in accordance with A-A-59826, Type I or II, Tex Size 30-32, (Government Size

AA), Class B non-wicking. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material except for the top stitching of the V stripe, which shall be a good match to the gold material. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply. The thread color for applying the V-stripe shall be a close match to the basic gold material. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.15 Seams and stitching. All stitching shall be 10-12 stitches per inch. All joining seams shall be topstitched, for strength. There shall be no visible joining seams of the ‘V stripe’ material. The mitered seams of striping shall match (±1/8) inch. The collar and shoulder darts shall be topstitched. The pocket openings shall be topstitched and bartacked at the top and bottom. All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4-inch. The stitching for the jacket bottom shall finish 1 (±1/8) inch from the bottom of the jacket. The stitching for the sleeve hem shall finish 1 (±1/8) inch from the bottom edge of sleeve. The two front slash pockets shall each have two welts measuring 7-1/4 (±1/8) inches long by 1/4 (±1/8) inches wide, with a horizontal bartack at the top and bottom of each welted opening. The slide fastener shall not be exposed when closed. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted on pants. Each bartack shall consist of not less than 21stitches and not more than 28 stitches. All topstitching shall finish

1/16-inch from folded edge. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Seams required to be forced out, and having a depth between the fold of 1/8-inch or more, shall be considered a defect.

3.4.16 Sewn eyelets. There shall be four (4) sewn eyelets at each underarm. See patterns for placement. The sewn eyelets shall be 3/8-inches with a 1/8-inch opening.

3.4.17 Bartacks. Horizontal bartacks shall be located at the bottom, on each side of the center front zipper superimposed over the stitching line of the hem, and at the top and bottom of the slash pocket welts superimposed over the top stitching. The bartacks shall measure 1/2 (±1/16) inch in length, 1/16 (±1/32) wide. Each bartack shall consist of not less than 21 stitches and not more than 28 stitches and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.4.18 Embroidery location. The embroidered Army Star logo shall be placed on the left front

(see Figure 2). Placement instructions are for cut pieces. For the vertical placement, the bottom of the embroidery shall measure 1/2 the distance between the neck edge and the top notch of the

V-stripe placement at the center front. The horizontal placement of the embroidery shall be 3-1/4

(± 1/8) inches from the center front. The bottom corner of the outside border stitching shall be no closer than 1/4-inch from the top of the V-stripe. All thread ends that are visible on the item shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4-inch.

3.5 Labels. Each jacket shall contain a size label, identification label and care instruction label. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and instruction label may be combined. A 2-inch by 2-1/2-inch label shall be sewn on all four sides onto the liner positioned at the center back 1-5/8 (±1/4) inches down from the liner/collar joining seam. The label shall show no signs of fading or delamination through fifty (50) laundering cycles when laundered in accordance with AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, A, iii. A 2-inch by 3-inch white, blank rectangular label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides into the right front pocket.

3.5.1 Combination size/identification label. The combination label shall conform to Type VI

Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn on all four sides onto the liner positioned at the center back 1-5/8 (±1/4) inches down from the liner/collar joining seam. The label shall contain the following information:

SIZE

NSN

CONTRACT NUMBER

JACKET, UNISEX, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM (APFU)

100% NYLON

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

3.5.2 Combination identification/instruction label. The combination size/identification/instruction label shall conform to Type VI Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn on all four sides onto the liner positioned at the center back 1-5/8 (±1/4) inches down from the liner/collar joining seam and contain the following information:

JACKET, UNISEX, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM (APFU)

100% NYLON

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

CARE INSTRUCTIONS:

Machine Wash Cold with mild detergent; Cold Rinse; Permanent Press cycle; Tumble Dry Low

DO NOT USE BLEACH, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR DRYER SHEETS, DO NOT IRON,

DO NOT DRY CLEAN

3.5.3 Bar code label. Each jacket shall be individually bar coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100-pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit

National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the jacket when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the jacket. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.6 Design. The jacket shall be black in color, fully lined, with long raglan style sleeves, and a stand-up interlined collar. The jacket shall have a draw cord hem with two (2) barrel locks for adjustability. The sleeves shall have elbow patches on the inside and a tab with hook and loop closure (see figures 3 and 4). The jacket shall have a full front opening slide fastener furnished with an easy grip plastic thong, front double welted slash pockets with slide fasteners, and underarm venting. The jacket shall be trimmed with gold material, 2 (±1/8) inches wide, forming a V-stripe from armhole to armhole across the front, across the width of both sleeves, and forming a V-stripe across the back, similar in size to the front V-stripe. The upper left front has the Army

Star (logo) embroidered above the V-stripe.

3.6.1 Placement of embroidery. See patterns for the placement of the embroidered Army Star

(logo) on the upper left front (see Figure 2).

3.7 Figures. Figures 1 through 4 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns which provide for an allowance of 1/2-inch for all seams except for the collar joining seam which is 3/8-inch. The

Government patterns may be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment; however the design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the jacket shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts listed in Table IV.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts

Pattern Abbreviation Computer Nomenclature Cut parts

Basic Material

Back PD13_04-BK 1

Front Right PD13_04-FRONT_RIGHT

Front Left PD13_04-FRONT_LEFT

Elbow Patch PD13_04-ELBOW_PATCH

Collar PD13_04-COLLAR

Sleeve PD13_04-SLEEVE

Sleeve Tab PD13_04-SLEEVE_TAB

Welt PD13_04-WELT

Back Hem Facing PD13_04-BACK_FACING

Front Hem Facing PD13_04-FRONT_FACING

V-Stripe Material

Back V PD13_04-BACK_V

Front V PD13_04-FRONT_V

Sleeve V PD13_04-SLEEVE_V

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts - Continued

Pattern Abbreviation Computer Nomenclature Cut parts

Lining Material

Back Lining PD13_04-BACK_LINING

Front Lining PD13_04-FRONT_LINING

Sleeve Lining PD13_04-SLEEVE_LIN

Pocketing Material

Back Pocket Bag PD13_04-BACK_POCKET

Top Pocket Bag PD13_04-TOP_POCKET

Interlining Material

Collar PD13_04-COLLAR_INT

Embroidery patch PD13_04-EMB_PATCH

Welt PD13_04-WELT_INT

Back V PD13_04-BACK_V_I

Front V PD13_04-FRONT_V_I

Sleeve V PD13_04-SLEEVE_V_I

3.8.2 Finished measurements. The finished jackets shall conform to the finished measurements in Table V when measured as specified in Table VI.

TABLE V. Finished measurements (inches)

Sizes 1/2 Chest Armhole seam

1/2 Sleeve

Opening

Sweep

(Relaxed)

Center Front

Collar Height

Center Back

Collar Height

X-Small 23-1/2 12-5/8 5-1/2 20 2 2-1/2

Small 25-1/2 13-1/2 5-1/2 22 2 2-1/2

Medium 27-1/2 14-3/8 5-3/4 24 2 2-1/2

Large 29-1/2 15-1/4 5-3/4 26 2 2-1/2

X-Large 31-1/2 16-1/8 6 28 2 2-1/2

XX-Large 33-1/2 17 6 30 2 2-1/2

XXX-Large 35-1/2 17-7/8 6-1/4 32 2 2-1/2

Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/8 ± 1/8

TABLE V. Finished measurements (inches) – Continued

Back Length

Size X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

X-Small 25-3/4 26-3/4 27-3/4 28-3/4 ---

Small 26-3/4 27-3/4 28-3/4 29-3/4 ---

Medium 27-3/4 28-3/4 29-3/4 30-3/4 31-3/4

Large --- 29-3/4 30-3/4 31-3/4 32-3/4

X-Large --- 30-3/4 31-3/4 32-3/4 33-3/4

XX-Large --- 31-3/4 32-3/4 33-3/4 34-3/4

XXX-Large --- 32-3/4 33-3/4 34-3/4 ---

Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE V. Finished measurements (inches) – Continued

Under Sleeve

Size X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

X-Small 18-1/8 19-5/8 21-1/8 22-5/8 ---

Small 18-7/8 20-3/8 21-7/8 23-3/8 ---

Medium 19-5/8 21-1/8 22-5/8 24-1/8 25-5/8

Large --- 21-1/4 22-3/4 24-1/4 25-3/4

X-Large --- 21-3/8 22-7/8 24-3/8 25-7/8

XX-Large --- 21-1/2 23 24-1/2 26

XXX-Large --- 21-5/8 23-1/8 24-5/8 ---

Tolerance ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

TABLE VI. Method of measuring (with jacket laying flat)

Location Method

1/2 Chest With jacket fully zipped measure at base of armhole, flat across the chest from folded edge to folded edge.

Armhole seam Measure front armhole seam from neck seam to base of armhole.

1/2 Sleeve opening

With sleeve relaxed measure from folded edge to folded edge across bottom of sleeve.

Sweep Measure across bottom of jacket with elastic waist laying flat, relaxed, from folded edge to folded edge.

Back length Measure from bottom of collar to jacket bottom

Under sleeve Measure from base of armhole to sleeve bottom

Center Front

Collar Height

Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center front.

Center Back

Collar Height

Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center back

3.9 Toxicity. The finished jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.10 Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The jacket shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The jacket shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects as specified in 4.4, 4.5, 4.6 and

Table X and tested for the characteristics as specified in Tables VII, VIII and IX.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.4 through 4.6 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with quality acceptance limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see

6.2).

4.4.1 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.2 Component testing.

4.4.2.1 Basic material. The basic material physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII. Physical requirements for basic material

Paragraph

Test Method

Weight, Basic material (oz./sq. yd.) 3.4.1 Table I ASTM D3776 Option C

Weight, V-Stripe (oz./sq.yd) 3.4.2 Table I ASTM D3776 Option C

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp

Filling

3.4.1 & 3.4.2

Table I

ASTM D3775

Breaking strength (lbs.),(minimum)

3.4.1 & 3.4.2

Table I

ASTM D5034

Dimensional stability (percent) (maximum)

AATCC 135 1/

Colorfastness (minimum)

Laundering

Light (170 kJ or 40 hrs)

Crocking (Dry/wet)

AATCC 61 Test 1A 1/, 2/

AATCC 16.3 3/

AATCC 8 4/

Water resistance (minimum)

Initial

After 10 and 20 launderings

After 30 and 40 launderings

After 50 launderings

After 60, 70, 80, 90 launderings

After 100 launderings 5/

AATCC 22

Moisture vapor transmission rate 6/

(g/sq.m /24 hour, initial)

Inverted (minimum)

Upright (minimum)

ASTM E96

Test “BW” 7/

Test “B” 8/

Oil Repellency-Hydrocarbon Resistance

(minimum)

Initial

After 100 launderings 5/

AATCC 118

1/ Laundering and drying conditions using Table I, method 3, III, A, iii

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2,Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference

Scale

5/ Testing shall be conducted initially and post 100 laundering cycles, listing results every 10 laundering cycles, to be performed once per contract. Testing shall be conducted initially and post

10 Laundering cycles for every lot.

6/ Temperature and humidity conditions of 73.5°F (±1ºF) and 50 (±2) percent relative humidity.

The linear air flow velocity in the wind tunnel shall be set to yield an upright, ‘open cup’ evaporation rate at all test specimen positions of 15,000 (±1000) g/m

/24hours. The evaporation rate shall be determined by conducting an upright cup, Procedure B test, without a test specimen for a period of exactly two (2) hours. For specimen testing using Procedure BW, the ‘open cup’ evaporation rate shall be determined in the air stream at a level not more than three (3) inches below the position of the inverted cup test specimen.

7/ Procedure BW. The back side of the basic material shall face the water. The test specimen shall be set-up in the test cup with water level of 3/4 (±1/16) inch below the specimen surface.

The cup shall be inverted bringing the water in contact with the back side of the test specimen; the test specimen shall be conditioned in this manner for 5 minutes. At the end of the conditioning period, the cup and test specimen shall be examined for evidence of water leakage at cup edges or through holes/pinholes in the test specimen; if a leak occurs, the test specimen shall be discarded and the test cup shall be set up with a new test specimen. The cup shall be immediately weighed and placed in the wind tunnel to start the test and removed and weighed again after exactly 2 hours to complete the test. Five (5) specimen shall be tested.

8/ Procedure B. The back side of the basic material shall face the water. The test specimen shall be conditioned, after set-up in the test cup with water level of 3/4 (±1/16) inch below the specimen surface, in the wind tunnel for a period of not less than 4 hours and not more than

16 hours (Conditioning time of less than 4 hours may be used provided that equilibrium conditions have be demonstrated to exist within the test sample/sample cup/wind tunnel. In cases of dispute, the conditioning time shall be 4 hours.) After conditioning, the cup shall be immediately weighed to start the test and again after exactly 24 hours to complete the test. Five

(5) specimen shall be tested.

4.4.2.2 Lining material The lining material physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Physical requirements for lining

Paragraph

Test Method

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 3.4.3 Table II ASTM D3776 Option C

Width, meshes per inch (minimum)

Length, meshes per inch (minimum)

3.4.3 Table II Visual 1/

Bursting strength (pounds) (minimum) 3.4.3 Table II ASTM D3787

Dimensional stability (Percent) (maximum)

Wales

Courses

3.4.3 Table II

AATCC 135 2/

Colorfastness to laundering 3.4.3 Table II AATCC 61 Test 1A 3/

1/ Three (3) specimen in each direction per sample unit.

2/ Laundering and drying conditions using Table I, method 3, III, A, iii

3/ Rated on the AATCC Gray Scale for staining

4.4.2.3 Component testing. The components as referenced below in Table IX physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table IX.

TABLE IX. Physical requirements of components

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Pocketing

Color

3.4.4

4.5.3

Interlining

Non-fusible

Weight

3.4.5

Visual

ASTM D3776 Option C

Cord, elastic (Drawcord)

Width/diameter

Weight (oz/lin. yd.)

Elongation

Picks/inch

# of carriers

Ends/per carrier

# of strands

Color shade matching

3.4.6

Visual/micrometer

ASTM D3776

1/

ASTM D3775

Visual

Visual

Visual

4.5.3

Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop

Width

Length

3.4.7 A-A-55126

Tape Webbing

Width

3.4.8 ASTM D3774

Slide fasteners

3.4.9

Slide Fastener Thongs

Strength

3.4.10

A-A-55634

Barrel Lock

Holding Strength

3.4.11

2/

Barrel lock keeper

Length

3.4.12

Visual

Cannon Clip 3.4.13 Visual

Thread

Color shade matching

3.4.14

A-A-50199 & A-A-59826

1/ Elastic cord elongation test. Cut a 14-inch specimen from a representative sample cord and make two marks on the cord so that a distance of 10-inches is between the gauge marks.

Suspend the cord from a clamp in such a manner as to allow a 2-pound weight to be hung on the lower end of the cord. Gradually lower the weight until the entire load is carried by the cord.

After 2 minutes, take a measurement between the two marks and calculate the increase in length as follows:

Elongation (%) = B-A x 100

A

Where: A = Initial measurement

B = Measurement of elongation at 2 pounds

2/ The barrel lock holding strength shall be tested as follows:

Using tensile testing machine (in accordance with ASTM D5034) at 2-inches/minute, either pull-up cord on stationary engaged cord-lock or vice-versa (see above illustration.)

4.5 Visual examination.

4.5.1 End item examination. The finished examination sample size, acceptance quality limits and acceptance criteria shall be specified in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

4.5.2 End item visual examination. Each jacket shall be subjected to visual examination. All defects shall be scored in accordance with Table X which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the jacket. Material defects are defined in Section 1 of

FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.

4.5.2.1 Visual examination defects. The jacket shall be examined for the defects as listed below in Table X.

TABLE X. Defects

Examination Defect Classification

Major Minor

Material

Defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub

Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness

Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment

Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment

Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

TABLE X. Defects - Continued

Major Minor

Component and assembly

Any defective component 1/

Any component part omitted

Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Drawcord Any drawcord caught in hem or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord

Any drawcord omitted

Any drawcord insufficient in length

Any barrel lock omitted

Embroidery

Design

Any design incorrect or missing, poorly defined, distorted or misshaped.

Unrelated colors of yarn visible on face, surface yarns loose, tight or shifted, bunched, kinked or tangled yarns on face.

Finished height or width of design not as specified.

Any component part not securely attached or stitched.

Position not as specified

Slide fasteners

Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective

Not closing as specified

Length not as specified

Color not as specified

Thong not as specified

Wrist tabs Missing

Improperly located 1/

Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect

Incorrectly placed or attached

Accuracy of seaming

Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch

Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2-inch

Color not as specified

Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified

Major Minor

Open seams More than 1/8-inch up to 1/4-inch

More than 1/4-inch

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

Seams and stitching

Not specified seam or stitch type

Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

Stitch Tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches

- more than 2-inches

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching)

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- one stitch

- two or more stitches

More than maximum specified

Pocket welts Welts attached crookedly, uneven i.e. zipper visible when closed

Welts poorly shaped or not covering zipper

Welts uneven in width by more than 1/8-inch

Repairs More than five (5) repairs on any one item 1/ 129

Shaded Part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/

Any part required to be cut form one piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3-feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Major Minor

Fronts

Lengths of fronts

Hem uneven by 1/4-inch or more at bottom when fastened

Uneven by 1/4-inch or more at neck when fastened

Bartacks Bartack omitted

Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

- more than two

- two or less

Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken

Length or width not as specified

Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible

Not attached to location specified

Causes damage to the garment

Fastener tape hook & loop

Not properly placed

Not specified length

Packaging Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 1/

136 237

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as minor when affecting serviceability but not seriously.

4.5.3 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloths and components shall match the standard sample using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A or C, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (± 200)°K illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200)°K.

4.5.4 Finished measurements. The finished measurements as specified in 3.8.2 shall be verified by measuring the garment according to the method in Table VI.

4.6 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished jacket is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the

Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense

Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-

ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Unisex Jacket is for wear by military personnel in the United States

Army as part of a physical fitness uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Type and size required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2).

e. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3)

f. Inspection conditions (see 4.4)

g. When toxicity testing is required (see 4.6)

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Athletic wear

Clothing

Coat

Windbreaker

6.6 Known sources.

6.6.1 Basic material. Duro Industries style Guardian is known to meet the requirements of this document.

6.6.2 Zipper thong. Perlane Sales, Inc. ITW Nexus GT Alpha Zip line part #864-0200A is known to meet the requirements of this document.

6.6.3 Cannon clip. Perlane Sales, Inc. ITW Nexus Cannon Clip part #743-0125 is known to meet the requirements of this document.

6.6.4 Resin. A suggested resin for dipping ends of slide fastener thongs (see 3.4.10.2) is "No

Fray No. 64", Champion Packaged Products, Inc., 4939 South Austin Avenue, Chicago, IL

60638.

6.7 Equivalent item. Equivalent is defined as matching performance, aesthetics, weight and appearance. Prior to use of “or equivalent” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting office for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

Dimensions: Approx. 2-inches wide X 2-1/2-inches high

FIGURE 1. Army Star Embroidered logo

FIGURE 2. Placement of embroidery for Jacket, Unisex, Physical Fitness Uniform

FIGURE 3. Front view, Jacket, Unisex, Physical Fitness Uniform

FIGURE 4. Back view, Jacket, Unisex, Physical Fitness Uniform

CUSTODIAN: PREPARING ACTIVITY:

Army – GL DLA – GL