CRFD_PD_04_07_RevD_09302010_AirForce.pdf

CRFD/PD 04-07

Revision D

30 September 2010

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TRUNKS, IMPROVED, PHYSICAL TRAINING UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE. This Purchase Description (PD) covers the requirements for the Physical

Training Uniform (PTU) trunks. The improved trunks are intended for wear by U.S. Air

Force personnel (USAF).

1.1 Classification. The trunks shall be of one type in the following sizes:

XX-Small, X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large, and XXXX-Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Issues of Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form part of this PD to the extent specified herein.

2.2 Source of Government documents. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

Government Publications

Specifications

AA-55126 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

(Application for copies of military and Federal documents are available on line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil./quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Documents Order

Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3 Other Publications. The following documents form a part of this PD to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply.

Non-Government Publications

THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND

COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC-61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC-135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

AATCC-15 Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC-79-2000 Absorbency of Bleached Textiles

AATCC TM 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

(Application for copies of the AATCC Technical Manual is available online at www.aatcc.org or should be addressed to the American Association of Textile

Chemists and Colorists, 1 Davis Dr., P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC

27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

ASTM D3775 Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) of Woven Fabric

ASTM D3776 Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight)

(Small Swatch of Fabric)

ASTM D3787 Standard Test Method for Testing Bursting Strength of Textiles – Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball burst

Test

ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches

(Application for copies of ASTMs is available online at www.astm.org or should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbour Dr., West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)/

INTERNATIONAL SAFETY EQUIPMENT ASSOCIATION (ISEA)

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High Visibility Safety

Apparel and Headwear

(Application for copies of ANSI/ISEA 107 is available online at www.ansi.org or should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1919 L St. NW, Washington, DC 20036.)

2.4 Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 First Article Inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with Section 5.1.2.

3.2 Recycled, Recovered, or Environmentally Preferable Material. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Description. The trunks shall be a boxer style, 100% polyester, AF blue 1650 and have a full-fitting, anti-odor treated, black panty-style lining with elastic sewn to the lining leg openings (see Figures 1 and 2). The trunk shall have an all-elastic waistband with a drawstring and barrel lock. There shall be an inverted ―V‖ chevron reflective line design heat transfer pattern positioned over the outseam of the shorts. The lower left leg shall feature a reflective heat transfer Air Force symbol with U.S. Air Force text (see Figures 3 and 4).

3.3.1 Sewing instructions. The stitching for the elastic waist shall be two rows; one row shall measure 1/4 inch from the top of the waistband and second row shall measure 1 (+/–1/16) inch from the top row of stitching (1 inch gauge). The waistband fullness shall be evenly distributed. The center front and back seams shall have one row of topstitching 1/16 inch from folded edge. The leg outseams shall have two rows of topstitching; one row shall measure 1/16 inch from the edge of the side seam and second row shall measure 1/4 inch from the first row of stitching. The outseam shall have a V-cut construction at the bottom.

The bottom hems and V-cut shall be clean finished with two rows of topstitching same as the outseam. Each V-cut shall have a 5/8 inch horizontal bartack (between 28 and 34 stitches) at the top through both seam allowances. The trunks shall have two top-stitched side seam pockets made from outershell fabric (see 3.1). The side seam pockets shall have a 3/8 inch horizontal bartack (between 16 and 22 stitches) at the top and bottom of the pocket opening and centered on the seam allowance. The side seam pocket opening shall have two 1 inch by 1/2 inch black hook and loop tapes spaced evenly on pocket opening. The hook portion shall be sewn to the body side and loop portion shall be sewn to the pocket side. The trunks shall have an identification card patch pocket on the front of the right thigh that is located above the V-cut, adjacent to the outseam. The pocket opening shall finish 3 1/2 (+/–1/8) inches in width. The identification card pocket opening shall have a 1 inch by 1/2 inch black hook and loop tape closure, placed in the center of the pocket opening and a 3/8 inch horizontal bartack at the top and bottom to secure the pocket. The identification card pocket shall be the same width on all sizes and run parallel to the reflective trim on the left front leg. The trunks sha1l have a black nylon/spandex key pocket located on the inside right front, 2 to 2 1/2 inches from the right side seam and sewn in the waistband stitching. The key pocket shall finish approximately 2 1/4 inches in width by 4 1/2 inches in depth with 1/4 inch of the top folded over to encase the pocket. All stitching shall be between 10 and 12 stitches per inch. All seams shall start and finish evenly. All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4 inch. All thread ends that are visible on the item shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch. Repairs, such as mends, darns, patches, or splices, are not permitted on trunks. After completion, the finished trunks sha1l be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed.

Table I. Bartack Placement

Bartacks

PTU Trunks

Bartack

Numbers

Bartack Location Size of

Tack

Stitches per

Tack

# of

Bartacks Total #

1 Top of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

3/8" 16-22 1 2

2 Bottom of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

3/8" 16-22 1 2

3 Top of V-cut through top and bottom seam allowance

5/8" 28-34 1 2

4 Top of ID card pocket centered on seam allowance

3/8" 16-22 1 2

5 Bottom of ID card pocket centered on seam allowance

3/8" 16-22 1 2

Table II. Stitches Placement

Stitches

PTU Trunks

Seam Placement Seam Type Gauge Stitch Type

Side seams, inseams and crotch seams

(shell) SSa-1 1/2 inch gauge 301 or 401

Attachment of pocket to side seam SSc-2 1/2 inch gauge seam 301

Attachment of I.D. pocket to vent SSc-2 1/4 inch gauge seam 301

Attachment of I.D. pocket to leg LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge 301

Top stitching of crotch seam OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge 301

Top stitching of side seam OSf-1

First row, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. Second row, 1/4 inch from first

Attachment of side and bottom of pocket to inside of leg LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge 301

Side seams and crotch seams (lining) SSa-1 1/2 inch gauge 502, 503, Stitches

PTU Trunks

Seam Placement Seam Type Gauge Stitch Type

504 or 505

Attachment of labels LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch gauge 301

Attachment of elastic to waist SSa-1 — 502, 503, 504, or 505

Topstitching of waist elastic OSa-2

First row, 1/4 inch from fold.

Second row, 1-1/4 inch from fold

301 or 401

Attachment of elastic to lining legs SSa-1 — 502, 503, 504 or 505

Attachment of hook and loop in pockets OSa-2

First row, 1/16 inch from fold.

Second row 1/4 inch from first row

Hemming of trunk legs and vent EFb-2 1/2 inch gauge 301

3.3.2 Reflective materials. The reflective Air Force wing symbol shall be positioned on the lower left front of the trunks. The symbol shall be 1 1/2 inches in width and 1 1/2 inches in height. The text U.S. AIR FORCE shall be 3/16 inch in height and 2 3/8 inches in width and positioned underneath the symbol. Each leg shall have a 3/4 inch reflective chevron applied at the front bottom hem across the leg diagonally toward the side seam and positioned according to the notches on each pattern piece so that the bottom edge of the reflective is aligned with the notch. The 3/4 inch reflective chevron shall be aligned in parallel with the ID pocket on the front left leg and shall be no more than 1/8 inch away from the folded edge of the ID pocket. The chevron on the back of the leg shall be applied so that it is positioned across the leg diagonally to meet the front chevron at the side seam. The 3/4 inch reflective chevron on the right leg shall match the placement of the chevron on the left leg. It is the manufacturer's responsibility to apply the chevrons and AF symbol according to the suppliers’ instructions.

3.4 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trunks shall be 100% polyester, AF blue, 1650 micro denier filament with inherent fiber moisture management properties. The material shall conform to the requirements in Table III.

TABLE III. Physical requirements, basic fabric

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Weight (oz/sq. yd.) 2.2 (+/- 0.2) ASTM D3776 Method C

Yarns per inch (min.)

Warp

Filling

ASTM D3775

Breaking strength (lbs. min.)

Filling

ASTM D5034

Moisture Management <15 sec AATCC 79-2000

Wicking, Initial

Min apparent wet area :

Fill

Min weight differential:

Wicking, Post 3 Laundering

Min apparent wet area:

Min weight differential

2 1/8 inches

2 1/8 inches

0.13%

0.13%

1 3/4 inches

1 3/4 inches

0.10%

0.10%

/1

/1

Dimensional Stability (Post 5 Launderings)

3.0

2.0

AATCC 135

Table I, Method 3, III, iii

CF to Perspiration

Dry (Shade Change)

Staining (Nylon)

4 min

AATCC 15

CF to Laundering

Shade Change

Staining (Nylon)

AATCC 61-1A

/1 Wicking/Drying – Test Procedure as follows:

Specimen Preparation

Specimen samples are prepared from original and post three (3) laundering – AATCC-135 Table 1, Method

3, III, (A), iii. Cut specimen 6 inches × 1 inch in the warp and filling directions. The long dimension is considered the test direction. All specimens must be conditioned in a controlled atmosphere (70 F+/– 2 F, 65% humidity +/– 2%) for a minimum of four (4) hours prior to testing.

Sampling

For each test lot, twelve (12) specimens in total shall be required and defined as follows: Initial set of three

(3) warp and three (3) filling specimens representing side-center-side and final set of three (3) warp and three (3) filling specimens representing side-center-side post three (3) launderings.

Procedure

1) Fill a 250 ml flask with approximately 25 ml of distilled water. Weigh the flask containing the water

(initial flask weight). All weights to be recorded to at least three decimal places out, 1/10,000 th

2) Cut conditioned specimens to 6 inches × 1 inch size. Measure and mark approximately 1 inch from the top and ¼ inch from the bottom.

3) Place pin across the 1 inch mark so that each end of the pin is exposed and able to be hung over the top of the flask. Utilize the 1 inch area to mark specimen appropriately (for example: left side post laundering or center initial …)

4) Place specimen in flask containing water by allowing the pin to hang over the edges of the flask. The specimen should not be submerged into the water level higher than the 1/4 inch mark at the bottom of the specimen.

5) Set timer for 30 minutes.

6) After 30 minutes, hold specimen by the 1 inch area, slightly raise specimen, and gently shake five (5) times while still in flask in order to remove any drops of water that may be sticking to the bottom of the specimen. Remove specimen from flask.

7) Measure the length of the apparent ―wet‖ area of the specimen.

8) Weigh the flask containing the balance of remaining water (equals final flask weight)

Report

Measure the distance of the ―wet‖ area measured post subjection to the water to the nearest 1/16 th inch.

Calculate the differential mass calculation as follows:

Initial Flask Weight – Final Flask Weight

× 100 = % Weight differential Initial Flask Weight

3.5.2 Lining. The cloth for the lining of the trunks shall be black 100% polyester jersey. The material shall have a treatment with anti-odor and moisture management capability and shal1 conform to the requirements in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Physical requirements, lining

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Weight (oz/sq yd.) 2.5 +/– 0.2 ASTM D3776 Option C

Yarns per inch (min.)

Wales

Courses

ASTM D3775

Bursting strength (min.) 80 ASTM D3787

Dimensional stability (max.) 4.0% AATCC-135 Table I, Method 3, III, iii

Colorfastness to Laundering 4 /1 AATCC-61 Test 1A

Elongation (min.)

Wales

Courses

70%

90%

ASTM 5034

/1 Rated on the AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.

3.5.3 Elastic. All elastic for the trunk shall be machine washable and dryable in accordance with Section 3.6.

3.5.3.1 Waist. The knitted corded elastic for the trunk waist shall have a width of 1 1/4 inches and shall have a black inserted drawstring. The tunnel opening for the drawstring shall be on the inside of the waist. Warps of the elastic shall be 20 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 20. The filler shall be 6 ends 1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 20 ends 30 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 42. The elongation of the elastic shall be 120% (+/–

10%). The needle width shall be 23 needles. Its cord shall be 12 ends 2/150 semi-dull polyester.

3.5.3.2 Liner legs. The knitted elastic for the liner legs shall have a width of 1/4 inch. Elastic shall be black. Its warps shall be 4 ends 1/50 polyester and the total warp ends shall be

4. The filler shall be 4 ends 1/150 polyester. The elastic element shall be four ends 34 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 50. The elongation of the elastic shall be 160% (+/–10%). The needle width shall be 4 needles.

3.5.4 Drawstring barrel lock. The barrel lock for the waist drawstring shall be black plastic.

The lock shall prevent the drawstring from pulling into the waist tunnel.

3.5.5 Thread. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the AF blue 1650 basic material.

The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used on commercial threads. The color of the thread used in the lining shall be black.

3.5.6 Reflective. The reflective graphic transfer symbols shall be tested in accordance to the

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel and

Headwear. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The testing shall include initial photometric measurements followed by physical testing including abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing (25 cycles). A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement (see 5.1.1). After application of the symbols on the garments an additional test shall be performed to ensure proper application of the transfers. The garments shall be washed at a water temperature of 80 – 105° F with a mild detergent for five (5) cycles with the machine set on a delicate cycle. Three (3) samples of each garment shall be tested. A visual inspection shall be performed after the five (5) cycles. There shall be no evidence of flaking or peeling. A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement (see 5.1.1).

3.6 Labels. A commercial type, top sewn, label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed label containing the contractor’s name, contract number, size, and National Stock

Number (NSN) is sewn in with the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information. The top of the label shall be sewn in the waist joining seam at center back. The label shall have the following text:

3.6.1 Certification. For certification purposes the PTU trunks shall include the following text:

―This garment is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of Purchase Description

CRFD/PD 04/07-Rev D and was produced under Certificate Number

_____________from basic material warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate ___________Lot #

Certification information may be placed where dictated by AAFES via the contract.

3.6.2 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate that has a basis weight of

100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a ho1e and shal1 be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials ―UPC‖ must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be medium to high density.

The barcode for NSN and UPC shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when it is fo1ded and/or packaged as specified and so the tag causes no damage to the item. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns shall be furnished by the Government in AccuMark electronic format. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Also minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements. The patterns provide 1/2 inch seam allowance on trunk and 1/4 inch allowance on liner.

3.7.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the trunks shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated:

MACHINE WASH COLD

MILD DETERGENT

COLD RINSE

TUMBLE DRY LOW

DO NOT USE BLEACH

DO NOT IRON

DO NOT USE FABRIC

SOFTENER OR FABRIC

SOFTENER SHEETS

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Name Cut Parts

Basic Material Right Front RFRONT 1

Left Front LFRONT 1

Back BACK 2

ID Pocket ID PKT 1

Side Pockets SPKT 2

Lining Material Front FLINER 1

Back BLINER 1

Nylon/spandex Key Pocket KEYPKT 1

3.8 Figures. Figures 1 through 5 are furnished for information purposes only. In the event of any inconsistencies between the written PD and the figures, the written PD shall govern.

3.9 Finished measurements. The trunks shall conform to the finished measurements (given in inches in Tables Va and Vb).

TABLE Va. Finished measurements, trunks

SIZES

(A)

1/2 Waist

(relaxed)

(B)

1/2 Waist

(stretched)

(C)

1/2 Hip

(D)

1/2

Thigh

(E)

Inseam

(F)

Outseam

(G)

Front

Rise

(H)

Back

Rise

XX-Small 10 1/2 17 19 1/4 12 7/8 6 1/2 14 1/8 11 1/2 13 1/2

X-Small 12 18 1/2 20 3/4 13 3/4 6 1/2 14 1/2 12 14

Small 13 1/2 20 22 1/4 14 5/8 6 1/2 14 7/8 12 1/2 14 1/2

Medium 15 21 1/2 23 3/4 15 1/2 6 1/2 15 1/4 13 15

Large 16 1/2 23 25 1/4 16 3/8 6 1/2 15 5/8 13 1/2 15 1/2

X-Large 18 24 1/2 26 3/4 17 1/4 6 1/2 15 7/8 13 7/8 15 7/8

XX-Large 20 26 1/2 28 3/4 18 3/8 7 1/2 17 1/8 14 1/4 16 1/4

XXX-Large 22 28 1/2 30 3/4 19 1/2 7 1/2 17 1/8 14 3/8 16 3/8

XXXX-Large 24 30 1/2 32 3/4 20 5/8 7 1/2 17 1/8 14 1/2 16 1/2

Tolerance +/– 1/2 +/– 1/2 +/– 1/2 +/– 1/2 +/– 1/4 +/– 1/4 +/– 1/4 +/– 1/4

TABLE Vb. Finished measurements, trunks

Method of measuring garment (trunks on flat surface):

(A) 1/2 Waist (relaxed) Measure across top of trunks with elastic relaxed.

(B) 1/2 Waist (stretched): Measure across top of trunks with elastic fully extended.

(C) 1/2 Hip: Measure from side seam to side seam using three points (for sizes XX-S through M: measure 7 inches down from the top of the waistband at center front to the bottom of each pocket at side seam; for sizes L through XXXX-L: measure 8 inches down from the top of the waistband at center front to the bottom of each pocket at side seam).

(D) 1/2 Thigh: Measure parallel to leg opening from folded edge of crotch point to folded edge of outside leg.

(E) Inseam: Measure along inseam from crotch point to bottom of hem.

(F) Outseam: Measure along seam from top of waistband to top of V-cut.

(G) Front Rise: Measure along front curved center seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

(H) Back Rise: Measure along back curved center seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

(I) Side Seam Pocket Opening: Measure the side seam pocket opening between the bartacks.

(J) Vent Opening: Measure across opening of vent from bottom corner to bottom corner.

(K) ID Pocket Opening: Measure the ID pocket opening between the bartacks.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements, trunk liner

Front

Rise

(B)

Back

Rise

(C)

1/2 Leg Opening min max range

(D)

Crotch

Seam

(E)

Outseam

XX-Small 10 7/8 12 7/8 7 1/48 1/4 3 7/8 4 1/2

X-Small 11 3/8 13 3/8 89 3 7/8 4 5/8

Small 11 7/8 13 7/8 8 3/49 3/4 4 3/8 4 3/4

Medium 12 3/8 14 3/8 9 1/210 1/2 4 7/8 4 7/8

Large 12 7/8 14 7/8 10 3/811 3/8 4 7/8 5

X-Large 13 1/4 15 1/4 11 1/812 1/8 4 7/8 5 1/8

(I)

Side Seam

Pocket Opening

(J)

Vent Opening (K)

ID Pocket

Opening XX-Small 6 1/2 3 3 1/2

X-Small 6 1/2 3 3 1/2 Small 6 1/2 3 3 1/2 Medium 6 1/2 3 3 1/2 Large 6 1/2 3 3 1/2 X-Large 6 1/2 3 3 1/2 XX-Large 7 1/2 3 3 1/2 XXX-Large 7 1/2 3 3 1/2 XXXX-Large 7 1/2 3 3 1/2 Tolerance +/– 1/4 +/– 1/4 +/– 1/4

Front

Rise

(B)

Back

Rise

(C)

1/2 Leg Opening min max range

(D)

Crotch

Seam

(E)

Outseam

XX-Large 13 5/8 15 5/8 1213 4 7/8 5 1/4

XXX-Large 13 3/4 15 3/4 12 3/413 3/4 4 7/8 5 3/8

XXXX-Large 13 7/8 15 7/8 13 5/814 5/8 4 7/8 5 1/2

Tolerance +/–1/2 +/–1/2 no tolerance +/–1/4 +/–1/4

Method of measuring garment:

(A) Front Rise: Measure from waist joining seam to crotch seam in the front.

(B) Back Rise: Measure from waist joining seam to crotch seam in the back.

(C) 1/2 Leg Opening (a range of measurement): With elastic relaxed, measure from folded edge to folded edge of leg opening.

(D) Crotch seam: Measure along crotch seam between leg openings.

(E) Outseam: Measure from waist joining seam to leg opening along outseam.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials, to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with the

Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1. Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the requirements characteristics of this PD and shall conform to the producer's own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.1.1 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shal1 contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5.2. Visual examination. Each trunk shall be examined for the defects listed below (see

Table VII).

TABLE VII. Defects

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A

Minor

B

a. Any hole *

b. Abrasion damaging the fabric *

c. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole.

d. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside of trunks *

e. Needle chew that might develop into hole *

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A

Minor

B

f. Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn *

g. Needle holes in outer fabric X

Shaded Parts

a. Any shaded parts on outside of trunks *

b. Color not as specified X

C Cleanliness

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of trunks X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of trunks X

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of trunks or two or more markings not removed

X

Components

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein)

b. Any component part omitted (not classified herein) *

c. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

d. Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full to the degree that serviceability or appearance is affected.

C Bartacks

a. One bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

b. Two bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

c. Three or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

d. Any bartack not specified length X

S Seams and Stitching

a. Seam distorted, twisted, pleated, or puckered *

b. Any part of trunks caught in unrelated operation or stitching *

c. Thread(s) used on outside of trunks not same shade of not satisfactorily matching shade of trunks

d. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A

Minor

B

e. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of trunks X

f. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

g. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified

h. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch 2/ X

i. Open seam over 1/4 inch 2/ X

j. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 in inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

l. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of trunks 3/

m. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of trunks 3/ X

n. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of trunks 3/

o. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of trunks 3/ X

p. Run offs more than ½ inch but not more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

q. Run offs more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

r. Seam or stitch not specified type X

s. Loose tension resulting in loose seam X

t. Loose tension on edge or top stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread

u. Tight tension 5/ X

v. Stitches per inch on major portion of trunks one or two less than specified X

w. Stitches per inch on major portion of trunks three less than specified X

x. Stitches per inch on major portion of trunks four or more less than specified

y. Stitches per inch on major portion of trunks more than specified X

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A

Minor

B

z. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more

aa. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced X

bb. Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability

cc. Topstitching not finishing as specified X

dd. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch X

Reflective Heat Transfer

a. Heat transfer stripe applied incorrectly *

b. Heat transfer stripe placement not as specified *

c. Heat transfer Air Force symbol applied incorrectly *

d. Heat transfer Air Force symbol placement not as specified *

Labels

a. Label missing or size marking omitted, incorrect, or illegible X

b. Information (except size) missing, incorrect, or illegible X

c. Label not stitched on four sides X

Pockets

a. Pockets not similar in shape X

b. Pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch X

c. ID card pocket not constructed or positioned correctly X

d. Key pocket not constructed or positioned correctly X

Waistband

a. Trunks twisted or pleated by stitching forming waistband X

b. Distance between stitch lines on waistband less than 7/8 inch or more than 1 1/8 inch

c. Waistband stitching varying more than 1/8 inch X

d. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed X

e. Waistband curling X

f. Drawstring barrel lock broken X

g. Drawcord missing or not functioning X

Trunk Legs

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A

Minor

B

a. Hem uneven by more than 1/8 inch X

Hook-and-Loop Tape

a. Hook and loop fasteners at pockets misplaced, loose, or defective X

b. Hook and loop fasteners not specified dimension X

Dimensions

a. Measurement of item not as specified X

Bar Codes and Packaging

a. Bar code or UPC code omitted or not readable by scanner

b. Human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible

c. Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item

d. Bar code causes damage to the item

e. Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

* Defects marked with an asterisk are major defects if they affect serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability.

1/ If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is nonweakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein.

2/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge or top stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.

3/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Run offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams.

5/Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.

5.3. Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING.

6.1. Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

7. NOTES.

7.1 Sources. Based on previous Request for Information (RFI) the following companies have shown/demonstrated interest. These sources provided components for fit/wear/production of previous wear test garments.

Table VIII. Sources

Item Source

Basic Material Martru with Sorbtek® or equal

Liner Material Visa Endurance® or equal

Elastic Asheboro Elastic Products, style number QCA-4404AFO or equal

Elastic Asheboro Elastic Products, style number 025-2417AFA or equal

Barrel Lock American Cord & Webbing Company style number 93764 or equal

Thread T-30 PermaCore or equal

Thread T-24 Best Stretch or equal

Reflective Material Airex® Breathable Reflective Trim by Safe Reflections Inc. or equal

PREPARING ACTIVITY: ASC/WNUV-TAC

Air Force Uniform Office

1901 Tenth St.

Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, OH 45433-7605

FIGURE 1. Trunks, PT, front, ride side, and back views

(A) Front Rise

(B) Back Rise (not shown)

(C) 1/2 Leg Opening

(D) Crotch Seam

(E) Outseam

FIGURE 2. Trunks, PT, liner

A

D

E

C

FIGURE 3. Air Force symbol and U.S. AIR FORCE text for trunks

The symbol shall be 1 1/2 inches in width and 1 1/2 inches in height. The text U.S. AIR FORCE shall be

3/16 inch in height and 2 3/8 inches in width and positioned underneath the symbol.

FIGURE 4. Chevron details for leg stripes

FIGURE 5. One piece chevron and small logo