000000430473_000000155979_GJBURRKEPU.pdf

[INCH -POUND]

A-A-55095A January 12, 2004

SUPERSEDING

A-A-55095 March 10, 1993

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

COVERALLS, UTILITY

1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for a general purpose utility coverall. The coveralls are intended for wear by the Department of Defense male and female personnel. These coveralls are a modified commercial item since they require a specific military appearance (See paragraph 3.1).

2. CLASSIFICATION.

2.1 Classes. The coverall shall be of one type in the following classes:

Class 1 – Blue 3329

Class 2 – Green 3454

Beneficial comments, (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRDD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

2.2 Sizes The coveralls shall be furnished in the following sizes:

Length Sizes Extra Short 34 36 38 40 42 Short 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Regular 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Long 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Extra Long 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Extra Extra Long 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

3.1 General Description. The coverall (see figures 1 and 2) shall have long sleeves with adjustable cuffs; two breast pockets with flaps, two hip pockets; one with a flap and one without a flap; two front patch pockets without flaps; a two piece upper back with a single pleat in each panel at the waistband, a waistband with belt loops, a pencil slot in the left breast pocket flap, a convertible collar, and a double slider slide fastener fly front. The left front facing shall be finished with a continuous line of stitching through the front starting at the neck and terminating at the crotch seam (J-stitch) catching both slide fastener tapes. The right front facing shall be finished with a continuous line of stitching through the front starting at the neck and terminating at the crotch seam. The neck shall be closed under the collar with a button and buttonhole (see figure 3). When coverall is in a fully closed position (buttoned, snapped, and zipped), the collar/neckline apex shall meet at the center front. A gripper type snap fastener shall secure the fly front just above the top of the slide fastener tape and centered between scoops of the slide fastener and the finished edge. The coverall shall have a hanger loop with a 2-inch free opening positioned inside the back neck.

3.1.1 Pockets. The coverall shall have six pockets, one pocket on each breast with sewn-down flap covering the top of the pocket, the left breast pocket flap shall have a pencil slot (see figure 4), one pocket on each leg front, caught in the waistband with side of the pocket caught in side seam and one pocket on each back panel just below waistband. The left hip pocket shall have a sewn-down flap covering the top of the pocket. The front patch pockets (lower front pocket) shall have a 6 (+1/8) inch opening. The breast and hip pockets shall have a 1 (+1/8) inch top hem.

3.1.2 Belt loops. The coverall shall have five belt loops located as follows: one on each side seam, one on the center back seam, one centered on each front lower pocket. The belt loops shall finish 2- 1/2(+1/8) inches long and ½ (+1/16) inch wide. Belt loops shall be double stitched not less than ¼ inch gage. The belt loops shall be attached by laying the belt loop flat and folding under the top and bottom.

The belt loops shall be bartacked at the top and bottom. The bartacks shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. The belt loop shall lay flat after attaching to the coverall. There shall be no fullness under the belt loop.

3.1.3 Waistband. The waistband shall finish 1-3/4 (+1/8) inches wide and shall be centered over upper and lower body seam. The waistband shall be edge stitched 1/16 inch from upper and lower edge.

3.1.4 Cuffs. The cuff of the sleeves shall have square ends and a two button adjustment on the sleeve tab (see figure 1). The buttons shall be positioned on each sleeve cuff with the first button ¾ (+1/8) inch from the finished square edge of the cuff and the second button 1-1/4 (+1/8) inches from the first button when measured from center to center of the button. The finished cuff shall measure 1-3/4 inches in length.

3.1.5 Sleeve placket. The sleeve shall have a lapped sleeve placket opening, measuring 5-1/4 (+1/4) inches.

3.1.6 Bottom hem. The finished bottom leg hems shall measure 5/8 (+1/8).

3.1.7 Bartacks The coveralls’ bartacks shall be located in the following areas for reinforcement:

horizontal bar tack on top folded ends of slide fastener tape through front; horizontal bartacks at top corners of both hip pockets; horizontal or vertical bartack at lower corner of lower front pocket openings; horizontal bartack at upper corner of lower front pocket openings (see figure 4), horizontal bartack across seam allowance at top of sleeve opening; vertical bartack superimposed on inner row of stitching on bottom corner of all pocket flaps; vertical bartacks according to marks on pattern for pencil pocket opening; horizontal bartack on “J” stitching at top of crotch seam through all plies of slide fastener tape and left and right fronts of coveralls.

3.1.8 Figure. The figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written description and the figure, the written description shall govern.

3.2 Material

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 2 up, 1 down, right or left hand twill that contains 65% + 5% polyester fiber and not less than 30% cotton based on the dry weight of the desized specimens when tested as specified in Table I. The color of the cloth shall be shade Blue 3329 for the Class 1 coverall and Green 3454 for the Class 2 coverall. The yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton drawn and evenly spun into singles yarn for both the warp and filling. The cloth shall be singed, desized, scoured, dyed, heat set and treated to provide a supple hand and durable crease-resistant finish equal to the standard sample. The use of sulfur dyes or dyes containing elementary sulfur or sulfur compounds capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The material shall meet the following requirements:

TABLE I – Requirements and test methods.

Characteristics Test Method Requirements

Fiber content Polyester Cotton

AATCC-20A

65 + 5 percent not less than 30 percent

Weight, oz/yd2 ASTM-D 3776, Option C minimum - 5.0 maximum - 6.75

Yarns per inch (min) Warp Filling

ASTM-D-3775

Breaking Strength, lbs. (min) Warp Filling

ASTM-D 5034

pH AATCC-81 5.5 – 8.5 Weave Visual 2/1 right or left hand twill Sulfur content FED-STD-2020 slight trace Colorfastness Laundering (3 cycles) Perspiration Light (40hours) Crocking dry wet

AATCC 61 Test 3A 1/, 2/

AATCC 15 3/

AATCC 16, option A

AATCC 8 4/

not less than grade 3 not less than grade 3 not less than grade 3 not less than grade 3 not less than grade 2

Dimensional stability AATCC 150 (1) VA 1 + 3 percent (maximum)

1/ The specimen must be dried after each of the 3 laundering cycles.

2/ On the color transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

3/ Both acid and alkaline perspiration solutions are to be tested.

4/ Use AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.

5/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements.

3.2.1.1 Shade inspection The color and appearance of the dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 7500K (+200K) with illumination of 100 (+20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to its applicable standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300K (+200K).

3.2.2 Thread. The thread used shall be cotton covered-polyester core thread, Ticket No. 50, 2 ply, Tex 36-45 for needle, and Ticket No. 70, 2 ply, Tex 31-35 for bobbin, conforming to A-A-50199. The size 70 is used for overedge stitch and multi-thread chain. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed thread shall show “not less than grade 3” or “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested as specified in A-A-50199.

3.2.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, 30 line, 4 hole sewing button in accordance with style shown in Figure 6. The button color shall be a good match to Navy shade Dark Blue 501 for the class 1 coveralls and Navy shade green 600 for the class 2 coveralls.

3.2.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar type worked over gimp with the purling on the outside and the ends of the buttonholes stitching and gimp securely tacked. The buttonhole shall have a minimum cut length of ¾ (+1/16) inch to accommodate the required button. The cuff buttonhole shall be placed 5/8 (+1/16) inch from the edge of the cuff.

3.2.5 Gimp. The gimp used for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be type I or II size No. 8 of A-A-50198. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed gimp shall show “not less than grade 3” or “good” colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in A-A-50198.

3.2.6 Slide fastener. The brass slide fastener for the front closure shall be a double slider non-separating, reversible, with an automatic lock, open top, and bottom stop. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be fabricated of brass. The width of the closed chain shall be a minimum of 0.180 inch and a maximum of 0.310 inch, the single tape shall be 9/16 (+1/32) inch, and the thickness of the tape shall be a minimum of 0.035 inch. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material and shall show “not less than grade 3” when tested for colorfastness to laundering and light in accordance with AATCC 61 Test 3A 1/, 2/ and AATCC 16, option A. The slide fastener shall have a short pull tab. All components shall be from the same supplier.

1/ The specimen must be dried after each of the 3 laundering cycles.

2/ On the color transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

3.2.7 Snap fastener. The snap fastener closure shall consist of a button and socket (female half) and stud and eyelet (male half) and be constructed from non-corrosive materials. The snap fastener for the fly front shall be 16-17 line, black finish, pronged ring head type. The components shall be firmly engaged when fastened and still permit disengagement with a reasonable, properly applied force. The complete fastener shall be of one manufacturer’s construction only.

3.3 Patterns. The government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of ½ inch for joining seams, except for the following seams: a ¼ inch seam allowance shall be used to attach the facing to lower front pocket opening; to attach the cuffs to the sleeves, to attach pocket flaps; to seam top collar to under collar. A 3/8 inch seam allowance shall be used for the waistband joining seam and to attach the collar to the neckline. The breast pocket, breast pocket flaps, hip pockets, and hip pocket flap shall conform to the finished templates with a tolerance of +1/16 inch. The government patterns shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this document. The following pattern list is provided to ensure the pattern set is complete:

Pattern List.

Pattern Part Piece Name Abbreviation Cut Amount Front Upper Right Side FRT-UPR-RT 1 Front Upper Left Side FRNT-UP-LF 1 Back Upper BACK-UPR 2 Front Lower Left Side FRNT-LWR-L 1 Front Lower Right Side FRNT-LWR-R 1 Back Lower BACK-LWR 2 Top Sleeve TOPSLEEVE 2 Under Sleeve UNDRSLEEVE 2 Front Facing FRONT-FCNG 2 Front Patch Pocket FR-PTH-PKT 2 Front Patch Pocket Facing FR-PHPKFAC 2 Breast Pocket BRST-PKT 2 Finished Breast Pocket Alternate BRSTPK-ALT 2 Breast Pocket Flap BRST-PKFLP 2 Hip Pocket HIP-POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Flap HIP-PK-FLP 1 Hip Pocket Alternate HIP-PK-ALT 2 Cuff CUFF 2 Finished Breast Pocket Template F-BRST-PKT - Finished Breast Pocket Alternate F-BRPK-ALT - Finished Breast Pocket Flap F-BRSPKFLP - Finished Hip Pocket F-HIP-PKT - Finished Hip Pocket Flap F-HIPKTFLP - Finished Hip Pocket Alternate F-HPKT-ALT - Waistband WAISTBAND 1 Collar COLLAR 2 Collar Interlining 1/ COLLAR-INT 1 Collar Alternate COLLAR-ALT 1 Collar Interlining Alternate 1/ CLRINT-ALT 1

1/ As an alternate to the basic material the collar interlining may be cut from ends or finishing seconds.

3.4 Seams and stitches. All lockstitching shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. All overedge stitching shall have 8-10 stitches per inch. All seams, except the seat seam and front crotch seam, shall be single needle stitched face to face ½ inch from raw edges, the two raw edges shall be overedged together.

The seat seam shall be joined with a double lapped double stitched seam or with a double needle seat seamer with two rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. The front crotch seam shall be a mock double lapped double needle seam. The top and sides of the pocket flaps, the sides and bottom of breast and hip pockets, and the top, bottom and side of the front lower pockets shall be double stitched 1/16 inch from folded edge with a ¼ inch gage. The collar and front lapel shall be topstitched ¼ inch from the edge. The lower hip pocket facing shall be edgestitched 1/16 inch from the inside folded edge.

The leg bottom shall have a rolled hem with stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the inside folded edge. The cuffs and waistband shall be edgestitched 1/16 inch from all folded edges. All stitching shall be backtacked at least ½ inch if not crossed by another line of stitching. Belt loops shall be double stitched not less than ¼ inch gage. Joining seams shall not stagger more than 3/8 inch as measured from center of seam to center of seam.

3.5 Labels

3.5.1 Combination Label. Each coverall shall have a combination size, identification and care instruction label positioned 2 (+1/2) inch down from neckline centered over center back seam on inside of coverall. The label shall be stitched on all four sides. The color of the stitching thread shall match basic material and the stitching shall not go through the printing. The printing shall be legible throughout the life of the coverall. The combination size, identification and instruction label shall bear the following inscription:

SIZE: 36R (example) STOCK NUMBER: 8405-00-000-0000 (example)

COVERALL, UTILITY (65% POLYESTER AND 35% COTTON)

CONTRACT NO: SPO100-00-0-0000 (Example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (if other than contractor)

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

MACHINE WASH-PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE

WARM WATER (1200 MAX), DO NOT MIX COLORS

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY WARM SETTING-REMOVE IMMEDIATELY

TOUCH UP WITH WARM IRON, IF NEEDED

OR

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD WASH FORMULA II

Note: The lengths Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long, Extra Long and Extra Extra Long may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L, XL, XXL.

3.5.2 Barcode Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code.

The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density. The label/tag shall be located within the left sleeve armhole seam allowance, approximately 1 inch away from the underarm seam.

When the item is folded and /or packaged as specified, the bar code shall be completely visible. The bar code shall not cause any damage to the coveralls.

3.6 Sizes and Measurements. The finished coveralls shall conform to the measurements below. All measurements are expressed in inches.

TABLE II – Finished Measurements of coveralls.

CHEST-A

SIZE XSHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG XLONG XXLONG

34 38 38 38 --- --- --- 36 40 40 40 40 40 40 38 42 42 42 42 42 42 40 44 44 44 44 44 44 42 46 46 46 46 46 46 44 --- 48 48 48 48 48 46 --- 50 50 50 50 50 48 --- --- 52 52 52 52 50 --- --- 54 54 54 54 52 --- --- 56 56 56 56 54 --- --- 58 58 58 58

TOL +1 +1 +1 +1 +1 +1

SLEEVE INSEAM-B

SIZE XSHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG XLONG XXLONG

34 18-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 --- --- --- 36 18-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 38 18-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 40 18-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 42 18-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 44 --- 19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 46 --- 19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 48 --- --- 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 50 --- --- 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 52 --- --- 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2 54 --- --- 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 24-1/2

TOL +1/2/-1/4 +1/2/-1/4 +1/2/-1/4 +1/2/-1/4 +1/2/-1/4 +1/2/-1/4

LEG INSEAM-C

34 25-3/4 26-3/4 27-3/4 --- --- --- 36 26 27 28 29 30 32 38 26-1/4 27-1/4 28-1/4 29-1/4 30-1/4 32-1/4 40 26-1/2 27-1/2 28-1/2 29-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 42 26-3/4 27-3/4 28-3/4 29-3/4 30-3/4 32-3/4 44 --- 28 29 30 31 33 46 --- 28-1/4 29-1/4 30-1/4 31-1/4 33-1/4 48 --- --- 29-1/2 30-1/2 31-1/2 33-1/2 50 --- --- 29-3/4 30-3/4 31-3/4 33-3/4 52 --- --- 30 31 32 34 54 --- --- 30-1/4 31-1/4 32-1/4 34-1/4

TOL +1/2,-1/2 +1/2,-1/2 +1/2,-1/2 +1/2,-1/2 +1/2,-1/2 +1/2,-1/2

CENTER BACK LENGTH-D

34 17-5/8 18-5/8 19-3/8 --- --- --- 36 18 19 19-3/4 20-1/2 21-1/4 22-1/4 38 18-3/8 19-3/8 20-1/8 20-7/8 21-5/8 22-5/8 40 18-3/4 19-3/4 20-1/2 21-1/4 22 23 42 19-1/8 20-1/8 20-7/8 21-5/8 22-3/8 23-3/8 44 --- 20-1/2 21-1/4 22 22-3/4 23-3/4 46 --- 20-7/8 21-5/8 22-3/8 23-1/8 24-1/8 48 --- 21-1/4 22 22-3/4 23-1/2 24-1/2 50 --- 21-5/8 22-3/8 23-1/8 23-7/8 24-7/8 52 --- 22 22-3/4 23-1/2 24-1/4 25-1/4 54 --- --- 23-1/8 23-7/8 24-5/8 25-5/8

TOL. +1/4 +1/4 +1/4 +1/4 +1/4 +1/4

HIP-E

34 40 40 40 --- --- --- 36 42 42 42 42 42 42 38 44 44 44 44 44 44 40 46 46 46 46 46 46 42 48 48 48 48 48 48 44 --- 50 50 50 50 50 46 --- 52 52 52 52 52 48 --- 54 54 54 54 54 50 --- 56 56 56 56 56 52 --- 58 58 58 58 58 54 --- --- 60 60 60 60

TOL. +1 +1 +1 +1 +1 +1

Note: Chest, sleeve inseam and leg inseam measurements shall be taken with the coveralls fully zippered, laid flat and smooth.

A. Chest – Twice the measurement taken across the front at base of armholes from folded edge to folded edge.

B. Sleeve Inseam – Measurement shall be taken from base of the armhole, along sleeve inseam to bottom of sleeve including cuff.

C. Leg Inseam – Measurement shall be taken from junction of crotch and back seam along leg inseam to bottom of leg.

D. Center Back Length (Upper Torso)-Measurement shall be taken along the center back seam, from center back neckline down to top of waistband.

E. Hip – On front of coveralls, with slide fastener closed, twice the measurement taken across the coverall, one inch above fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

3.7 Finished appearance. Buttons should align with buttonholes and snaps should align with each other.

When the finished coverall is buttoned and snapped and slide fastener are fully closed, there shall be no puckers, twists, or gaps in appearance on front of coverall.

3.8 Workmanship. After completion, the coveralls shall be cleaned, and all loose thread, lint and foreign matter removed. Adhesive tape shade tickets shall be removed from the garment.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR) to the maximum extent practicable.

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description and that the product conforms to the producer's own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract or purchase order.

5.2 End item examination. The visual and dimensional examination for defects shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-1668, except that table I shall not be used. Lots of coveralls shall be inspected in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4.

5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from:

Defense Automated Printing Service Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

7.2 Source of non-Government documents

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Applications for copies should be addresses to American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308.)

ASTM International

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.)

ASTM Standard Test Methods for

ASTM D 3775 Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D 3776 Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 5034 Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

AATCC

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AATCC Test Methods

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC 81 pH of Water-Extract from Textiles AATCC 150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Garments

7.3 Key words

Utility Coveralls General Purpose Utility Coveralls

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Civil Agency Coordinating Activity:

Navy - NU GSA-FSS

Reviewer:

Coast Guard - CG

Preparing Activity:

DLA - CT

Project No. 8405-0348

Figure 5, Sleeve and back views for measurement use

Figure 6, Button with stud style