CO-PD-06-21C A2CU Coat 9-2-15.pdf

INCH-POUND

CO-PD-06-21C

2 September 2015

SUPERSEDING

CO/PD 06-21B

January 31, 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, AIRCREW, COMBAT

This purchase description is approved for use by all Department and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers requirements for a camouflage printed, aramid, combat coat for use by aircrew personnel.

1.2. Classification. The coat will be available in three (3) classes and in the following sizes as specified:

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) Class 2 Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) Class 3 Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

1.2.2 Sizes. The combat coat sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large Short Short Short Short Short Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long Long Long Long Long

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019. ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50195 Thread, Aramid A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton – or Polyester Covered A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55195 Thread: Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus A-A-55217 Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-PRF-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing, Nylon MIL-T-43709 Tape, Textile Aramid

MIL-W-5664 Webbing, Textile, Elastic

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil or from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

CO-PD-06-05 Patch and Brassard, Identification, Infrared Retroreflective GL-PD-10-13 Cloth, Plain and Basket Weave, Aramid https://assist.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/

(Copies of documents are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of those documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practices for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

Sears Roebuck and Co.

Sears Roebuck Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(Copies available from Sears Roebuck and Co., “Fabric Defect Replica Kit” at Sears Holdings Global Sourcing (SHGS) Hong Kong Textile Testing Laboratory, 49/F, Office Tower, Langham Place, 8 Argyle Street, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspections. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a plain weave aramid cloth conforming to GL-PD 10-13, Type II, Class 9 for Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) Coats, Class 10 for Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) Coats and Class 11 for Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) Coats as specified (see 6.2).

3.3.2 Parts cut from ends or from ground shade/printed seconds/mill seconds. The cloth for the chest pockets, chest pocket flap interlining, microclimate cooling garment (MCG) backing, and collar interlining shall be basic material, ground shade, or printed seconds cloth or cut from ends. Ground shade cloth shall meet the physical, mechanical and dimensional requirements of the finished fabric as specified in GL-PD-10-13. Printed seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected only for defects pertaining to color, infrared reflectance, or camouflage printed pattern as specified in GL-PD-10-13. Mill seconds shall be cloth that has been rejected for visual defects only and dyed to match the ground shade Desert Sand 503 for Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) uniforms, Cream 524 for Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) uniforms and Dark Cream 559 for Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) coats.

3.3.3 Webbing, elastic. The webbing for the waist elastic shall be bleached or unbleached and shall conform to Type I, Class 2 of MIL-W-5664, except shuttleless loom construction is permitted. The width of the webbing shall be 1-1/2 inches. The length of the webbing shall be 6- 1/2 (± 1/4) inches for sizes X-Small thru Medium (all coat lengths) and 8 (± 1/4) inches for Large and X-Large (all coat lengths).

3.3.4 Hook and loop fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tapes shall be in widths, and in lengths as specified in Table I. The tape shall conform to Type I or II, Class 1 of A-A-55126 and the color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3. The colorfastness requirements shall not apply.

TABLE I. Hook and loop fastener tape dimensions (inches)

Location Hook Loop Cut pieces

Width Length Tol. Width Length Tol.

Collar 1 3 ± 1/8 1 3 ± 1/8 1 Collar 1 1-1/2 ± 1/8 1 1-1/2 ± 1/8 1 Front opening 5/8 2 ± 1/8 5/8 2 ± 1/8 3 Rank tab N/A 2 2 ± 1/8 1 Name & US Army tapes N/A 1 5-1/4 ± 1/8 2 Waist N/A 1-1/2 5 ± 1/8 2 Waist Tab 1-1/2 2-1/2 ± 1/8 N/A 2 MCG opening/backing 3/4 or 1 5-1/2 ± 1/8 3/4 or 1 5-1/2 ± 1/8 1 Sleeve at cuff N/A 1-1/2 8-3/4 ± 1/8 2 Cuff tab 1-1/2 2-1/2 ± 1/8 N/A 2 Sleeve pocket N/A 4 6 ± 1/8 2 Sleeve pocket flap outer N/A 2 4 ± 1/8 2 Sleeve pocket flap under N/A 1 1 ± 1/8 2 Sleeve pocket flap under 1 1-1/2 ± 1/8 N/A 4 Pencil pockets & flaps 1 2-1/4 ± 1/8 1 2-1/4 ± 1/8 2 IFF tab 1 1 ± 1/8 N/A 2

3.3.4.1 IFF material. The IFF material shall conform to Type I of CO-PD-06-05.

3.3.5 Slide fastener. All slide fasteners shall close in the upwards direction with the exception of the chest pockets.

3.3.5.1 Front opening. The slide fasteners for the front opening shall be an automatic lock left hand, separating type brass with a black chemical finish and shall conform to Type III, Style 8, Size 5-7 of A-A-55634. The slide fasteners shall have a short pull tab. The lengths of the slide fasteners are listed in Table II.

TABLE II. Front opening slide fastener lengths (inches)

Size Length

X-Small – Short 19 X-Small – Regular 19-1/2 X-Small -Long 20 Small – Short 19-1/2 Small – Regular 20 Small – Long 20-1/2 Medium – Short 20

TABLE II. Front opening slide fastener lengths (inches) - Continued

3.3.5.2 Chest and sleeve pockets. The slide fasteners for the chest and sleeve pockets shall be brass with a black chemical finish and conform to Type I, Style 7, Size 5 of A-A-55634. The slide fasteners shall have a short tab pull, a 6-inch chain length for the chest pockets, and a 5-1/2-inch chain length for the sleeve pocket.

3.3.5.3 Slide fastener tape. The slide fastener tape shall be aramid, 3/4-inch wide and be of sufficient length to comply with the slide fastener attachment operation. The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1, and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3. The finished tape shall show colorfastness to light and laundering equal to or better that the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “fair” fastness to light after six (6) standard fading hours, and good” fastness to laundering.

3.3.5.4 Slide fastener thong. Each slide fastener shall be furnished with a thong of sufficient length to measure 3 (± 1/4) inches when attached to the slide fastener pull-tab. The thongs shall be 1/4-inch wide, conforming to MIL-T-43709, or a self fabric thong can be used. The slide fastener thongs shall finish 1-1/4 to 1-1/2-inches in length. To prevent fraying, the thong tape ends shall be either seared or ultrasonically cut. A thong shall be attached to each slider tab pull as follows:

Thread one end of the thong through the end of each pull-tab and with ends even, bartack together with vertical bartack(s), with the top end of the bartack 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch from the end of the slide fastener pull. Note: 3-inch thongs shall have two (2) bartacks and 1-1/4 to 1-1/2-inch thongs shall have one (1) bartack. The color of the thongs shall be Foliage Green 504 or Sage Green 1590 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3.

3.3.6 Thread.

3.3.6.1 Aramid and para-aramid. The thread shall be aramid, Tex Size 60 needle and Tex Size 40 bobbin/looper conforming to A-A-50195. As an alternate, para-aramid spun staple thread, Tex Size 40 and 60 conforming to A-A-55195, Type I, or A-A-55217, Type I may be used corresponding to each Tex size. The color of the thread shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3. The thread shall show fastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard is available, the thread shall show "good" fastness to laundering.

Size Length

Medium – Regular 20-1/2 Medium – Long 21 Large - Short 20-1/2 Large – Regular 21 Large – Long 21-1/2 X-Large - Short 21 X-Large – Regular 21-1/2 X-Large -Long 22

3.3.6.2 Cotton-covered polyester core. Cotton-covered polyester core thread conforming to Ticket No. 50, 2 ply of A-A-50199 may be used as an alternate thread for bartacking. The color of the thread shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3.The thread shall show fastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard is available, the thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering.

3.3.7 Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label, an instruction label, and a size label, or, a combination identification and instruction label. The labels shall conform to the requirements as specified in 3.3.7.1 to 3.3.7.5. The color of the label shall be White or approximate the ground shade of the base fabric and the printing shall be black.

3.3.7.1 Identification label. The identification label shall conform to Type VI, Class 1 of MILDTL-32075. The label shall be placed on the inside of the left chest pocket (as worn) so that on the finished coat, the label shall face the wearer. The label shall be centered on the pocket and be stitched on all four (4) sides with the stitching not more than 3/16-inch from the edge of the label.

3.3.7.2 Instruction label. The instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 3 of MIL- DTL-32075. The label (when applicable) shall be placed on the inside of the coat below the identification label. The top edge of the instruction label may be caught in the bottom edge stitching of the identification label. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides with the stitching 1/8 to 3/16-inch from the edge of the label. The label shall contain the following information:

COAT, AIRCREW, COMBAT

1. Wear outside of trousers. Do not tuck in.

2. The coat is of low flammability. No other special flame resistant treatment is required.

WARNING: Launder with slide fasteners and hook and loop fastener tape engaged.

Do not iron hook and loop fasteners.

3. Hand/Machine Washing: Permanent press cycle in warm water (130°F maximum) with a mild laundry detergent.

4. CAUTION: DO NOT STARCH OR USE CHLORINE BLEACH. Use of starch reduces flame resistance of fabric. Use of chlorine bleach degrades camouflage capabilities of fabric.

5. Rinsing: Rinse thoroughly in clear warm water (130°F maximum) after laundering.

Detergent must be removed or fabric flame resistance will be reduced.

6. Drying: Tumble dry at low heat (130°F maximum). Remove immediately from dryer.

To drip dry, remove from water and place on a rustproof hanger.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.3.7.3 Combination label. A combination identification label and instruction label may be combined into one (1) label. The combined label (when applicable) shall be placed on the inside of the left chest pocket (as worn) so that on the finished coat, the label shall face the wearer. The label shall be centered on the pocket and be stitched on all four (4) sides with the stitching 1/8 to 3/16-inch from the edge of the label. It shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075.

3.3.7.4 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size information shall be printed with not less than 10-point characters. The size label shall be placed on the center back, 1/2 to 3/4-inches down from the collar joining seam and stitched on all four (4) sides 3/16-inch or the top edge may be caught securely in the under collar joining seam.

The label shall be centered and face towards the wearer in the finished coat. The label shall contain the following information, as applicable:

X-Small - Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

X-Small - Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

X-Small - Long Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 6070/7484

Stock No.

NATO Size: 7080/7484

Stock No.

NATO Size: 8090/7484

Small - Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Small - Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Small - Long Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in. Chest: From 33 to 37 in. Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 6070/8494

Stock No.

NATO Size: 7080/8494

Stock No.

NATO Size: 8090/8494

Medium - Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Medium - Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Medium - Long Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in. Chest: From 37 to 41 in. Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

Stock No. Stock No. Stock No.

NATO Size: 6070/9404 NATO Size: 7080/9404 NATO Size: 8090/9404

Large - Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Large - Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Large - Long Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: From 41 to 45 in. Chest: From 41 to 45 in. Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 6070/0414

Stock No.

NATO Size: 7080/0414

Stock No.

NATO Size: 8090/0414

X-Large - Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

X-Large - Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

X-Large - Long Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 6070/1424

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 7080/1424

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 8090/1424

3.3.7.5 Barcode label/tag. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a Type VIII, Class 17, label/tag in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075. The label/tag shall be located so that it is Completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item.

3.4 Design. The coat is a "bush type" design with a stand-up collar with a front extension, shoulder patches, a slide fastener front closure, two (2) inside hanging chest pockets with flaps, a bi-swing back, two (2)-piece set in sleeves with elbow patches, two (2) sleeve utility pockets with flaps and IFF tabs, and two (2) lower sleeve pencil pockets with flaps. Hook and loop fastener tape is used on the collar, MCG opening, sleeve and pencil pockets and waist and wrist adjustment tabs. Above each chest pocket are loop fastener tapes to accommodate the Name and US Army tapes. On the center front, there is loop tape for the Rank Patch. The coat has a MCG opening with a backing piece located on the front right side for passage of an MCG hose.

3.5 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the figure and the purchase description, the purchase description shall control.

3.6 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns which show size, directional lines, placement marks, and notches for assembly unless otherwise specified. The patterns provide a 1/2-inch (+1/8-inch, - 0 inch) seam allowance for all double-lapped and double-stitched seams, and 3/8-inch (+1/8-inch, - 0 inch) seam allowance for single needle seams, except where otherwise specified. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's work patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government standard patterns.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts

Material Pattern Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts Aramid, plain weave

Right front FRONT_RT 1 Left front FRONT_LF 1 Back BACK 1 Side back SD_BCK 2 Top collar TOP_COLLAR 1 Under collar UND_COLLAR 1 Top Sleeve TOP_SLV 2 Under Sleeve UND_SLV 2 Cuff CUFF 2 Cuff tab CUFF_TAB 2 Shoulder patch SHLDR_PATCH 2 Elbow patch ELBOW_PATCH 2 Chest pocket CHEST_PKT 2 Chest pocket flap CHST_PK_F 2

TABLE III. List of pattern parts- Continued

3.7 Construction.

3.7. l Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching types specified in Table IV Shall conform to ASTM D 6193. Whenever two (2) or more methods of seams, or stitch types are given for the same operation, any one (1) of them may be used. Where stitch Type 401 is used, the looper, that is the underthread, shall be on the inside of the coat. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. The seams for all outside visible seams shall be 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or prehemming shall be 9 (± 1) stitches per inch. All hook and loop tape shall be sewn with 8-10 stitches per inch. All seams shall start and finish evenly. The guides and knives on the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/8-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type Side seams, side back seams, back arm seams, sleeve setting, and shoulder seams

LSc-2 3/16 to 1/4-inch gage (double lap seam)

301 or

Top stitching of cuffs, pocket and sleeve pocket bellows

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Top stitching of front edges, pocket flaps and cuff taps

OSF-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gage 301

Material Pattern Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts Aramid, plain weave - Continued

Utility left pocket UTL_LF_PKT 1 Utility left pencil pocket UTL_LPPKT 1 Utility right pocket UTL_RT_PKT 1 Utility right inner pocket UTL_RT_INPK 1 Utility pocket slide fastener flap UTL_ZIP_FLA 2 Utility pocket flap sleeve UTL_PK_FLP 1 Pencil pocket Sleeve SLV_PEN_PKT 1 Pencil pocket flap SLV_PPK_FLP 2 Waist tunnel WST_TUNNEL 1 Waist adjustment tab WST_ADJ_TA 2 MCG welt MCG_WELT 2 MCG backing MCG_BACKIN 2 Binding left utility pocket BIND_LUPKT 1

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types - Continued

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type

Top stitching of collar SSa-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301 Top stitching of bi-swing EFa-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4

Attachment of pencil pocket and sleeve utility pockets

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Attachment of waist tunnel, elbow and shoulder patches

LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Attachment of pocket flaps LSbl-2 or LSd-2

3/16 to 1/4-inch Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

301 or and 301

Attachment of waist elastic to tabs LSa-2 1-1/4 (± 1/16) inch box stitch centered on overlap 3/8 by 1-1/4-inch (+1/16) inch

Overedging facings and ends of waist tunnel

EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch 503 or 504

Overedging raw edges of MCG backing, pocket flaps and tabs

SSa-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch 503 or

MCG and chest pocket openings SSbe-2 3/16 to 1/4-inch 301

Self fabric slide fastener thongs EFh-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge.

(each row of top stitching)

301 or

Pocket flaps, cuff tab and waist tab construction

SSe-2 3/8-inch x 1-1/4-inch (±1/16) 301

Left upper sleeve pocket loop tape binding

LSbh-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from edge 301

Setting cuffs LSd-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge Slide fastener Chest pocket attachment

LSd-1

3/16 to 1/4-inch from teeth

Hook and loop

Front closure

Loop, Sleeve utility pocket

OSf-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from bound selvage

OSf-1 Box-X, 1/8-inch from the bound selvage

OSf-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from bound selvage and vertical center stitch

3.7.2 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch except on labels where a minimum of a three (3) stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.7.2.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs of Type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches, noted during inspection of the item, shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue onto the existing stitching by 1/2-inch.

Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner.

When damaged thread has been removed, needle holes do not constitute damage to The material. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.7.2.2 Type 401, 502, and 503 and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.7.2.1 a. and b. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair 401 stitching.

3.7.3 Bartacking. The bartacks shall measure 1/2 - inch to 5/8-inch long, and 1/8 (± 1/32) inch wide. The bartacks shall have a minimum of 28 stitches per bartack and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartack placement shall be as specified in Table V.

TABLE V. Bartack placement

Bartack Placement Number of Bartacks

Front fly opening - top and bottom, right and left sides (vertical bartack) 4 Chest Pockets Chest pockets, at ends of slide fastener superimposed on topstitch (vertical) Chest pocket flaps, at ends flap superimposed on attachment stitching (horizontal)

2 per pocket

Thongs Thong on front closure slide fastener pull tab (vertical bartack)

2 per thong

Thong on pockets slide fastener pull-tab (vertical bartack) 1 per thong Sleeve utility (pockets and flaps) At top and bottom of slide fastener (3/4-inch horizontal) At top right corner of pocket, as worn, superimposed on stitching (vertical) At top left corner of flap, as worn, superimposed on stitching (horizontal)

1 per pocket

Pencil Pockets At the top of every pencil compartment, superimposed on stitching (vertically) At the uppermost corners of the left utility pocket loop, superimposed on stitching line through all layers ( horizontal)

4 per pocket

TABLE V. Bartack placement - Continued

Bartack Placement Number of Bartacks Cuff tab, at top and bottom, superimposed on stitching (vertical) 2 per cuff Bottom of wrist cuff at under sleeve seam (horizontal) 1 per cuff Bi-swing opening, top and bottom (horizontal) 2 per side Waist tunnel opening, at each corner (horizontal) 4

3.7.4 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished shaper pattern is forwarded, the component shall conform to the pattern.

3.7.5 Thread ends. All thread ends that are visible on the finished coat shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4-inch. Any additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is allowed, provided the thread is removed or does not show in the finished coat.

3.8 Repairs. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches, or splices are not permitted on the coat.

3.9 Finished measurements. The measurements of the finished coat shall conform to the dimensions specified in Table VI. All measurements shall be in inches.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements (inches)

Size 1/2 Chest 1/ Back Length 2/ Sleeve Length 3/ X-Small - Short 19-3/4 28-3/4 24-1/2 X-Small –Regular 19-3/4 30-1/4 25-1/2 X-Small -Long 19-3/4 31-1/2 26-1/2 Small - Short 21-3/4 29-1/4 25 Small - Regular 21-3/4 30-3/4 26 Small -Long 21-3/4 32-1/8 27 Medium - Short 23-3/4 29-3/4 25-1/2 Medium - Regular 23-3/4 31-1/4 26-1/2 Medium -Long 23-3/4 32-5/8 27-1/2 Large - Short 25-3/4 30-1/4 26-1/2 Large - Regular 25-3/4 31-3/4 27-1/2 Large -Long 25-3/4 33-1/8 28-1/2 X-Large - Short 27-3/4 30-3/4 27-1/2 X-Large - Regular 27-3/4 32-1/4 28-1/2 X-Large -Long 27-3/4 33-5/8 29-1/2 Tolerance ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 1/2

1/ With coat fully fastened, and waist adjustment tabs not engaged, measure in line with base of armhole from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ With coat fully fastened, and waist adjustment tabs not engaged, measure along center back from under collar seam to bottom edge of coat.

3/ Fold sleeve along the underarm seam, measure along folded edge of the top sleeve from shoulder seam to the bottom of sleeve.

3.10 Toxicity. The finished combat coat for aircrew personnel shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.

Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished coat shall conform to the quality established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels as specified in the contract.

VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection (3.1.1) shall be performed on one (1) complete coat when a first article sample is required (see 3.1). This inspection shall include the examination of 4.4.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection (see 3.1.2) shall include the examination of 4.4. Sampling for inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.4 Examination of the end item. The defects found during the examination of the end item shall be classified in accordance with 4.4.1 and 4.4.2.

4.4.1 Visual examination. Each coat shall be subjected to visual examination. All fabric and garment defects as specified in Table VII shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the garment. Material defects defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3-feet.

TABLE VII. Visual examination

Examination Defect Classification Major Minor

Material Incorrect, not as specified (see 3.3.1) Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, needle chew, exposed drill hole,thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, visible mend or otherwise damaged Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D

Shade Shade variation within part or between parts of coat, affecting appearance or serviceability

NOTE: Parts suspected of shading shall be examined at a distance of 3-feet and against the background of other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examined conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Components Slide Fasteners Omitted, twisted, distorted, damaged, puckered

Color or type not as specified Thong omitted or not as specified Not located in correct position.

Tape Omitted or misplaced Any tape distorted, full, tight, frayed, damaged or twisted Color or type not as specified

Fastener Tape - Hook and Loop

Misplaced, damage, frayed, spliced or omitted Color or type not as specified Tape piece edges not cut straight (at approximately 90 degrees)

IFF Material Omitted, damage, or frayed 108 Thread Color or type not as specified 209 Labels, hangtags, Bar code/UPC/ HRI Codes

Omitted, illegible Color or type not as specified Human readable interpretation (HRI) illegible

Construction Any construction part of the coat omitted (3.7.1 to 3.9) 111 Hook and loop Attachment

Twisted or distorted when closed Out of alignment causing bulge Joining pieces out of alignment with each other by more than 1/4-inch Not stitched to coat as specified Stitching on tape selvage rather than hook or loop Tape piece not securely stitched to coat cloth Tape stitched less than 1/8-inch or more than 3/16-inch from edge

Collar Incorrect design not as specified in patterns, not specified width

TABLE VII. Visual examination – Continued

Major Minor Front Closure Hook and loop omitted, not secured, or incorrect placement Length of coat fronts uneven by more than 1/4-inch at top or bottom when closed

Sleeve Cuff Incorrect design, grainline not as specified in patterns, not specified width Sleeve lengths vary by more than 1/2-inch Cuff and cuff tab out of alignment with bottom folded edge of sleeve hem by more than 1/4-inch

Pocket and Flaps (all)

Pocket construction and openings not as specified Pocket companions and openings not uniform in size by 1/4-inch Pocket flaps or openings not as specified Pocket flaps twisted, curled or puckered, not stitched as specified or not well formed Pocket flaps not completely covering pocket opening left to right, positioned or grain line not as specified Pocket flap finished uneven from left to right more than 1/4-inch

Upper Sleeve Pocket

Omitted or incorrect size Incorrect placement of loop tape or IFF material

Pencil Pocket Omitted or incorrect size Channels varying more than 1/8-inch in width

Chest Pockets Omitted, incorrect size, or angle of pockets Missing or incorrect placement of slide fastener

MCG opening Missing, misplaced or out of alignment, MCG backing poorly shaped, puckered, twisted or set on crookedly.

Welt folded edges shall meet and not be twisted, puckered, tight, uneven, short or too full.

MCG opening less than 2-7/8 inches or more than 3-1/8 inches. Width of welts less than 3/16-inch or more than 5/16-inch wide.

Front name and U.S. Army loop tapes

Not in horizontal alignment or uneven by more than 1/4-inch

Elbow reinforcement

Omitted, not attached as specified

Coat Hem Ends of hem not sewn closed, twisted, puckered, pleated, wavy, or distorted Side seam lengths varying by more than 1/2-inch (prior to treatment)

Bar-tacks Omitted, misplaced, or improper size Loose stitching, not specified size, incorrect number of stitches

TABLE VII. Visual examination – Continued

Major Minor

Rank loop patch Omitted or misplaced 143 IFF tab cover Incorrect tab design or IFF material placement 144 Labels/Hangtags/ UPC/HRI Codes

Size, combination identification/care labels not placed correctly Hangtags/UPC labels not securely attached in correct location Barcode/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item Any label or tag having incorrect printed content Any label, hangtag, or barcode attachment causing damage to item

Seams and Stitching

Open seams, puckered, distorted, wavy, twisted, or irregular Loose or tight stitch tension Less than 1/2-inch in length Greater than 1/2-inch in length Missing stitches greater than 1/4-inch length Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to the edge or needle chew resulting in damage to fabric over 1/4-inch in length Seam allowance not as required by stitch type Visible raw edge on outside of coat (inside raw edge greater than 1-inch) Stitching not as specified Double needle intersecting seams staggered by more than 1/4-inch Run off of stitching more than 1/2-inch for edge or raised stitching Stitching caught in components or fabric causing unwanted permanent folds, pleats or fullness in the garment Free floating stitching not secured in a seam or other stitching by less than 1/4-inch or ends of a continuous line of stitching not overlapped over 1/4-inch (except label stitching) Stitching of seams incorrectly repaired

Cleanness/ Workmanship

Spot/Stain affecting appearance or serviceability Odor Thread ends (more than three (3) Between 1/4 to 1-1/2-inches Thread ends (more than three (3) Over 1-1/2-inches All closures on coat not engaged

Packaging Any coat not packaged in accordance with contract or purchase order

4.4.2 Dimensional examination. The appropriate number of coats, as specified in Table VIII, shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurement requirements specified in 3.8. The lot size shall be expressed in units of coats. The sample unit shall be one (1) coat. When a measurement deviates from the dimension and tolerance specified, the coat shall be penalized one

(1) point. Each coat shall also be penalized one (1) point when the sleeves are uneven in length by 1/2-inch or more. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total point values, resulting from the examination exceeds the maximum acceptable point values specified below. Each size of coat present in the lot shall be represented in the sample selected for this examination. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met.

TABLE VIII. Sampling

Lot Size Sample size Maximum acceptable point values

Up thru 500 8 0 501 thru 3,200 13 1 3,201 thru 35,000 20 2 35 001 and over 32 3

4.5 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.10) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

6.1 Intended use. The coat is for wear by aviation crewmen of the Department of Defense (DoD).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a.. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b.. Class and Sizes required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d.. Camouflage Pattern required (see 3.3.1).

e.. When first article inspection is required, (see 3.1.1, 4.2, and 6.3).

f. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.10, 4.5).

g. Conformance inspection acceptance quality levels (AQL) (see 4.3).

h. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it shall be inspected and approved under the appropriate provision of FAR 52.209. First article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should also include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard shade samples. For access to standard samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 International standardization agreement. Certain provisions of this document are the subject of international standardization agreement as cited in NATO, STANAG 2333. When amendment, revision, or cancellation of this document is proposed, which will affect or violate the international agreement concerned, the preparing activity will take appropriate reconciliation action through international standardization channels including departmental standardization offices, if required.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Aviator Crewchief Flight clothing Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP)

FIGURE 1. Front View; Coat, Combat, Aircrew

FIGURE 2. Back View; Coat, Combat, Aircrew

Custodians: Preparing Activity:

Army - GL DLA - CT

Sears Roebuck Fabric Defect Replica Scales