Attachment 01 - SPEC 370-170505-AJKT-COMBINED.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 370

JACKET, ATHLETIC, CADET, MEN’S & WOMEN’S

5 MAY 2017

Revisions from the previous two editions:

1. Formatting and dates

2. The design of the jackets did not change.

3. Elimination of flannel and muslin as components.

4. Zipper Pictures added and zipper size range allowed

USAFA CU 370

JACKET, ATHLETIC, CADET, MEN’S & WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for the athletic jackets worn by the cadets at the United States Air Force Academy.

1.2. Classification. The coats shall be of the one type in the following classes.

Class 1: Men’s Class 2: Women’s

1.2.1. Lengths and Sizes. The garments shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I - SCHEDULE OF SIZES & LENGTHS

Men’s Women’s SHORT 30 through 46 2 through 18 REGULAR 30 through 56 6 through 22 LONG 36 through 64 6 through 24 X LONG 36 through 64 8 through 24 XX LONG 42 through 64 N/A XXX LONG 42 through 64 N/A

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. Government documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS:

A-A-55634 Zipper (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50199A Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52074 Cloth, Satin, Lining Material

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS:

MIL-P-15064G(1) Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-head

MIL-B-371F Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-21115L Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-3735E Cuff, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS:

V-T-285 Thread, Polyester

STANDARDS

COMMERCIAL STANDARDS:

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 ANSI Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

MILITARY STANDARDS:

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

STANDARDS:

ASTM-D1974 Boxes Shipping Fiberboards ASTM-D6193 Stitches, Seams, and Stitching

FEDERAL STANDARDS:

FED STD 191A(6) Textile Test Methods

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585 https://assistca.dla.mil/

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927 Phone: 212-947-7774

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ANSI

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Samples. Samples are furnished only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2 First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished jacket of each gender in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification and Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations.

Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. Shall conform to Type III, Class 3, of Mil-DTL-21115L, and shall be USAF Academy blue, Shade No. 540, 10 oz. polyester/wool tropical cloth.

3.3.2 Lining. The lining shall be satin-like. The cloth shall be finished so as to provide a lustrous finished satin smooth face and a napped back. It shall have good colorfastness, a weight of 8 oz/sq2 + .5 oz/yd2 and a maximum shrinkage percentage of 4% in the warp and 2% in the filling. The Type I fabric described in Commercial Item Description A-A-52074 is known to meet these specifications. The color of the lining shall be black.

3.3.3 Slide Fastener. The teeth, tape, slider, stops, and pull of the slide fastener shall approximate the color of AF blue shade 1651 basic material. The slide fastener for the jacket front closure shall be a left hand separating, single-pull slide fastener and shall have synthetic individual-element teeth, size 3-5, with a 68-pound (average) crosswise breaking strength. The slide fastener shall have a single locking slider.

3.3.4. Interlining. The interlining shall be buckram, bleached or unbleached, 3.8 ounces per square yard, conforming to Type II of Specification A-A-50186. The buckram shall be cut on the bias, having an outside circumference of 19” before the pad is cut, and shall be placed 3/8” down from the top of pad. The straight edge of buckram shall be 6” long (minimum).

3.3.4.1. Interfacing. A medium-weight Pellon non-woven interfacing, cut 1” wide, is used along the center-front edge.

3.3.4.2. Batting. The batting shall be good quality cotton, resilient, thoroughly cleaned, fumigated and free of pills, neps, trash or other imperfections. The bating shall be shingled so as to produce a proper graduation of thickness in the finished shoulder pad.

3.3.5. Collar, Knitted Cuffs, and Waistbands. The knitted wrist cuffs, waistband, and collar shall conform to Type III of MIL-C-3735 and shall be black in color. The knit cuffs shall measure 4 1/2” in length unfinished, and 4” to 4 ¼” in length after being sewn into finished sleeve. The knitted cloth for the collar shall measure 2 1/4” (+1/4”) in width at center back on the finished jacket. The waistband shall measure 3 1/4 (+1/4”) in width on the finished jacket. Cut the bottom knit band in lengths as follows:

Sizes 34 through 36 - 28 inches Sizes 50 through 54 - 31 inches Sizes 38 through 40 - 27 inches Sizes 54 through 59 - 32 inches Sizes 42 through 44 - 29 inches Sizes 60 through 64 - 33 inches Sizes 46 through 48 - 30 inches

3.3.6 Labels. Each jacket shall have a contractor’s label and a removable paper size ticket. Sew contractor’s label to inside lining (as worn) on right, 2” from front edge and 8” from bottom.

3.3.6.1 Combination Contractor, Identification and Care Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent coated conforming to Type I, Class I of Specification MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be able to accept pen as a permanent mark and be able to withstand dry cleaning. The label shall finish not less than 2” wide by 3 1/2” long (the printing shall be along the 3 1/2” length) and show the following information:

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name SSN Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3.3.6.2. Removable Size/Bar Code Ticket. The removable paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 38 regular shall be expressed as 38R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be ½” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. The size ticket shall be tacked on the lower part of the left sleeve, above cuff, on the outside.. The ticket shall show the size of the jacket, for example:

38 38 38 38 Short Regular Long Extra Long

3.3.7. Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall be made using the following materials and construction or use commercially purchased shoulder parts constructed according to MIL-F-15064. Type I, class 2 of MIL-F-15064 is known to comply with this requirement.

3.3.8. Hanger Braid. Braid for the jacket hanger shall be polyester or cotton, braided, flat, black, 3/16” to 1/4” WIDE, otherwise conforming to Type III of Specification MIL-B-

371. The hanger shall be 1 ¾” + ½”.

3.3.9. Thread. The thread for temporary basting shall be a good commercial grade of cotton thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall conform to type IA3, ticket No.

50 or No 60, 3 ply of A-A-52094. The thread shall be black and shall show good colorfastness to light, perspiration and dry cleaning. Alternately A-A-50199A, Type II, 50/2 is acceptable.

3.4 Design. The design of the athletic jacket shall be as shown in Figure 1 of this specification, with all components in accordance with USAF Academy master patterns and specifications. It will be single breasted jacket with set-in sleeves. The jacket shall have synthetic knit cuffs, collar and waistband. The front shall be closed by a slide fastener. The jacket shall be lined with a black satin-like lining with cotton-finish back.

The women’s jacket shall have chest shaping darts originating at the side seam with terminus where chest is fullest, both shell and lining.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns provide for a 3/4” seam allowance for the fronts and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified here-in. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns.

The working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The contractor shall have the ability to develop and grade working patterns to all sizes required by the procuring activity.

3.6. Construction. The finished pads shall be curved; the outside circumference of the single pad, before cutting, shall measure 30”. Baste around curved edge of single pad with one row of 301-type stitch, 3-4 stitches per inch and 1/2” from outer edge. Stitch and single pad with two (2) rows of zigzag stitching all around, spaced approximately 3/4” apart, 2-4 stitches per inch. The zigzag stitching shall be controlled to form a concave shape effect in the finished pad with the rows of stitching passing through all plies of materials. The finished pad shall weigh 1.0 ounce (minimum). Cut the single pad into two (2) equal pads. The individual pads shall measure 9 1/2” (+ 1/4”) along the straight edge and 14 3/4” (+ 1/4”) along the curved edge. The thickness of the pads shall measure 1/4” at center of straight edge and shall taper to a thickness of 1/8” at the curved edge. Notch top ply of print cloth along straight edge, approximately 4” back from front.

3.6.1. Stitches, Seams, and Stitching. All stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Whenever two or more methods of seam or stitch types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used.

3.6.1.1. Stitches per Inch. The number of stitches per inch specified in Table II shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum number of stitches per inch permitted.

3.6.1.2. Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all thread types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2 to 1 inch.

3.6.2 Shade and Size Marking. The component parts of the jacket and liner shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the jacket.

Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets whose adhesive causes discoloration or adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of any ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the jacket.

3.6.3. Pressing. Unless specified, all pressing specified in Table II shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished jacket shall conform to the quality of product established by this document and the occurrence of defects shall not exceed the acceptable quality levels. Table II describes specifications and operational guidelines.

3.8 Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The jacket shall be made in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed unless otherwise specified. An additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided that the threads are removed or do not show on the finished jacket.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

1. CUTTING OF MATERIALS

a. The material shall be spread face to face, that is to say, the face of one ply of material shall be over and against the next ply below.

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and length and care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched of full and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

c. The jackets shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show size, shape, directional lines for cutting and also notches for placement of sleeve and proper assembling of all parts.

d. All component parts of the jacket shall be cut out of one piece of material.

2. CUT LINING

a. The cloth lining for the body of the jacket and sleeves shall be cut in the direction of the warp and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished.

Each section of the pattern may be placed with the directional line POINTING in opposite warpwise directions.

b. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

3. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED

PARTS

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

a. Replace at time of cutting any parts containing shade bars, holes or weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, slubs, snags or pulls.

b. Replace any parts damaged during manufacturing process by needle chews, holes, scissors or knife cuts, tears holes mends or burns.

4. SHADE MARKING

a. Mark or ticket all parts to insure a uniform shade throughout the jacket and the proper assembling of parts. If shade marking is used, the marking shall not show through or be visible on the outside of the jacket (see 3.12.1).

b. The numbering shall at all times start from the same position for all parts; for example, if the ply No. 1 is used for the top ply, the top and the next ply below facing the top ply must be No. 1 for all parts.

5. MAKE INNER SHELL (Lining)

a. Sew darts (Women’s Only) 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Join shoulder seam 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Press shoulder seam open and flat.

d. Set in sleeves 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

de. Join underarm sleeve seam and side seams 3/8” gauge.

301 SSa-1 10-14

f. Press underarm seams, side and armhole seam open and flat.

6. CONTRACTORS LABEL

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

a. Sew contractor’s label to inside lining (as worn) on right, 2” from front edge and 8” from bottom.

7. MAKE OUTER SHELL (Basic Fabric)

a. Join shoulder seam 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Press shoulder seams open and flat..

c. Set in sleeves 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Join underarm sleeve seams and side seams 3/8” gauge.

e. Press underarm seams, side seams, and armhole seams open and flat.

f. Sew in knit cuffs 1/4” gauge. The knit cuffs 1/4” gauge shall measure 3 1/2” (+ 1/4”) in length on the finished sleeve.

g. Sew in knit collar 1/4” gauge catching hanger braid stitching. The knit collar shall be cut 2 1/2” less than length of neck opening and be worked evenly into neck opening without puckers or gathers. The knit collar shall measure 2 1/4” (+ 1/4”) at center back in the finished jacket.

h. Sew in knit waistband 1/4” gauge.

The knit waistband shall be cut in length to measurements given per 3.3.4 and worked evenly into the waistband opening without puckers or gathers.

301 SSa-1 8-10

Note: Finished waistband shall measure 3 1/4” (+ 1/4”) wide.

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

i. A 1-inch strip of medium weight

Pellon non-woven interfacing is inserted along the front edge of the basic fabric and held in place with the slide-fastener stitching. Sew in slide fastener 1/4” gauge from back edge of slide fastener tape. Slide fastener chain is covered by basic fabric (outershell). Slide fastener shall extend from 1/4” (+1/2”) at bottom of jacket to within 1/4” of neck opening.

j. Sew straight edge of shoulder pad to edge of armhole seam allowance on top of armhole and in proper position

k. Tack the rounded edge of shoulder pad securely to shoulder seam allowance without causing puckers and gathers or stitches showing on outside of jacket.

Hand or machine

6-8

8. JOIN OUTER SHELL AND INNER

SHELL

(Alternatively sleeve-turning-hole construction may be substituted for the following construction operations)

a. Baste front edges prior to joining with front edges abutted on outside and the lining positioned 1/8” away from back edges of scoop on the inside.

Hand or

6-8

b. Join outer shell to inner shell all around except along the right front with all raw edges turned in. The edges of the fronts (basic fabric) shall meet when the slide fastener is closed and the edges of the lining shall finish 1/8” from back edge of scoops on the inside.

NOTE: The front edge shall not overlap when front is closed.

c. Gauge of raised stitching or edge

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom stitching shall be 3/8” for out-side of fronts and across bottoms to knit waistband and 3/16” around neck opening. Hanger braid shall be caught in neck stitching. Knit collar shall be caught in the stitching around the neck opening.

d. Join bottoms of sleeve linings to outer shell 3/8” to 1/2” gauge, catching cuffs in the stitching.

e. Trim corners and turn jacket right side out.

f. Baste edge and join right front shell to lining 3/8” gauge closing jacket.

301 SSa-1 12-14

9. FINISH PRESS JACKETS

a. Press the entire jacket smooth and flat.

b. Press smooth and flat the edges being careful that the slide fastener is the is not damaged in the edge-pressing operation.

c. Remove any gloss, wrinkles, creases and impressions on the entire jacket.

10. ATTACH SIZE TICKET

Attach size ticket to outside of left sleeve above cuff. (see 3.4.2) Hand or

11. EXAMINE JACKETS

a. Measure jackets for conformance with finished dimensions (Table III)

b. Trim all ends of stitching and remove any remaining threads from jackets.

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

c. Close slide fastener

d. Examine all operations on jackets

e. Examine jackets for any damages of imperfections in fabric and lining.

f. Check all seams for skips, breaks, puckering, and pressing.

g. Check that all seams are properly pressed open.

h. Check that front edges meet and that lining is 1/8” away from back edge of scoops on inside and outside.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Inspection Responsibility. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the government. The Cadet Uniform Section (10LRS/LGRCU) reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that the finished product conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.2. Responsibility for Dimensional Requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met. When the dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection may be made at any point or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.3. Responsibility for Supplier Certificates of Compliance. Certificates of component compliance with the Federal Acquisition Regulations must be submitted to the Government. This shall be done in the first article process.

4.2. Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First Article Inspection

2. Quality Conformance/End Item Inspection

4.3. First Article Inspection. The first article shall be inspected as specified in this document for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.4. Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.5. Inspection Quality Conformance/ End Item. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The end item shall be examined for defects. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during this examination shall be classified in accordance with Table V and Table VI. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously, and as a minor defect A when affecting appearance or serviceability, but not seriously. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for major and minor A combined, and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for minor B. The acceptable quality level for major and minor A combined shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units for major defects, 15 defects per 100 units for major and minor A defects combined, and 40 defects per 100 units for totals (major and minor A and B combined).

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS AQL

AQL INSPECTION

LEVEL LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II Major, Minor A And 40.0 II Minor B (combined)

**One Class 4.0 S-3

*This table shows the Acceptable Quality Levels and Inspection Levels for defects listed in General and Detailed Defects Table.

**Used for Special Inspection Levels such as finished measurements

4.6. Finished Measurements: Any measurement deviating from the nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III will be scored as a size-measurement defect.

TABLE III - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

(ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

DIMENSIONS FOR MEN’S “REGULAR” LENGTH JACKETS

DIMENSIONS FOR MEN’S “REGULAR” LENGTH JACKETS

SIZES

(1)

1/2 CHEST

(2)

1/2 WAIST

(4)

SLEEVE

LENGTH

(5)

BACK

LENGTH

30 18 16 21 23-3/4 32 19 17 22 24-0 34 20 18 22 24-1/4 36 21 19 22 24-1/2 38 22 20 23 24-3/4 40 23 21 23 25-0 42 24 22 23 25-1/4 44 25 23 23 25-1/2 46 26 24 24 25-3/4 48 27 25 24 26-0 50 28 26 24 26-1/4 52 29 27 24 26-1/2 54 30 28 26 27 3/4 56 31 29 26 28 58 32 29 27 28 1/4 60 33 30 27 28 1/2 62 34 30 27 28 3/4 64 35 31 27 29

DIMENSIONS FOR WOMEN’S “REGULAR” LENGTH JACKETS

SIZES

(1)

1/2 CHEST

(2)

1/2 WAIST

(4)

SLEEVE

LENGTH

(5)

BACK

LENGTH

2 16 ½ 14 ½ 20 20 3/4 3 16 ¾ 14 ¾ 20 ½ 20 7/8 4 17 15 20 ½ 21 5 17 ¼ 15 ¼ 20 ½ 21 1/8 6 17 ½ 15 ½ 21 21 1/4 7 18 16 21 21 3/8 8 18 ½ 16 ½ 21 21 1/2 9 19 17 21 ½ 21 5/8

10 19 ½ 17 ½ 21 ½ 21 3/4 11 20 18 21 ½ 21 7/8 12 20 ½ 18 ½ 22 22 13 21 19 22 22 1/8

14 21 ½ 19 ½ 22 22 1/4 15 22 20 22 ½ 22 3/8 16 22 ½ 20 ½ 22 ½ 22 1/2 17 22 ¾ 20 ¾ 22 ½ 22 5/8 18 23 21 23 22 3/4 19 23 ¼ 21 ¼ 23 22 7/8 20 23 ½ 21 ½ 23 ½ 23 21 23 ¾ 21 ¾ 23 ½ 23 1/8 22 24 22 24 23 1/4 24 24 ½ 22 ½ 24 23 ½

1. Chest measurement shall be taken with slide fastener closed from folded edge to folded edge at base of armholes. (Tolerance + 1/2”)

2. Waist measurement shall be taken from folded edge to folded edge at top of knit waistband with the waistband extended, i.e., stretched out flat and the slide fastener closed. (Tolerance + 1/2”)

3. Sleeve length measurement shall be taken from the shoulder seam to the top edge of knit cuff. (Tolerance + 1/2”)

4. Back length measurement shall be taken from the base of the knit collar to the top edge of the knit waistband. (Tolerance + 1/4”)

6. Width of wristlets measurement shall be taken from top of seam to bottom edge of wristlets, finished 3 1/2”. (Tolerance + 1/4”)

7. Width of collar measurements shall be taken at center back from joining seam to top edge of collar, finished collar 2 1/4”. (Tolerance + 1/4”)

8. Width of waistband measurement shall be taken at joining seam to bottom edge of waistband, finished 3 1/4”. (Tolerance + 1/4”).

TABLE III - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS - (cont.)

DIMENSIONS FOR SHORT, LONG, EXTRA LONG AND EXTRA, EXTRA LONG JACKETS +

Size Modifier

a. Short Sleeve length - 1” shorter than regulars Back length - 1” shorter than regulars

b. Long Sleeve length - 2” longer than regulars Back length - 1” longer than regulars

c. X Long Sleeve length - 4” longer than regulars Back length - 2” longer than regulars

d. XX Long Sleeve length - 6” longer than regulars Back length - 3” longer than regulars

e. XXX Long Sleeve length - 8” longer than regulars Back length - 4” longer than regulars

TABLE IV GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

1. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES

A non-weakening condition that is inconspicuous shall not be classified as a defect A material defect or workmanship damages shall be classified as follows only when the condition is one that definitely weakens the fabric or when it is conspicuously located so that it is clearly noticeable.

a. Any hole *

b. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that may develop into a hole.

c. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside on inside (except sleeve linings) X

d. Needle chews which may develop into a hole.

e. Scissors or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, loop, or burn.

f. One or more exposed drill holes. *

2. SHADED PARTS

a. Outside: Any shaded parts X

b. Inside: Any lining parts badly shaded, affecting appearance.

X

3. CLEANNESS

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on the outside. X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on the inside. X

c. One or more basting not removed. X

d. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of coat or two or more shade tickets not removed

4. COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly X

b. Any component part or required operation omitted (not herein classified)

5. CUTTING

a. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

b. Yarn line varying from warp direction on front by more than 1/2 inch.

c. Yarn line varying from warp direction on backs by more than 1/2 inch.

d. Warp yarn varying from sleeve inseam at bottom and top of sleeve.

6. PRESSING.

a. Burned or scorched. drill holes *

b. Armhole stretched. *

c. Sleeves pressed with a crease X

d. Pressing omitted or poorly pressed, affecting X

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B appearance (unless otherwise classified).

e. Armholes improperly pressed distorting hang of sleeves

f. Gloss not removed on one or more parts affecting

g. Pressing omitted or poorly pressed, affecting appearance (unless otherwise classified).

h. Linings not pressed smooth. X

i. Fronts either not pressed or poorly pressed. X

j. Armhole seams pressed with pucker and pleats. X

k. Front or lapel edges bulky, i.e., not pressed solid. X

7. SEAMS AND STITCHING

a. Any seam, twisted, puckered, or pleated, affecting

b. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching exposed and visible on outside of coat, affecting

c. Thread breaks

(1) not securely stitched back of break X

(2) stitching secured but stitched back of break for a distance less than 1/2 inch

d. End of seam or stitching when not caught in other seam or stitching not securely backstitched.

e. Wrong shade of thread or two shades of thread used on outside of same coat.

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

f. Gauge of stitching (edge or raised stitching).

(1) Irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or various stitchings not uniform, affecting appearance.

(2) Beyond range of width specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified.

(3) Any open seam on machine felling on inside --up to 1 inch inclusive X --more than 1 inch X

g. Open seams. One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitutes an open seam.

(1) On outside --more than 1/2 inch X --1/4 inch or more but not more than 1/2 inch X

(2) On inside --Any open seam 1/4” or more but less than 1/2” X --Any open seam more than 1/2” X

h. Raw edges (raw edges not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam. Raw edges shall be classified as such only when they occur at places where the edge is required to be turned under).

(1) Any raw edge on outside --up to 1/8 inch inclusive X --more than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch inclusive X --more than 1/4 inch X

(2) Any raw edge (except seams when binding is not used)

i. Run-offs on joining seams (Run-offs on joining seams resulting in an open seam shall be classified as an open seam).

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

j. Not specified seam type. X

k. Not specified stitch type X

l. Stitch Tension. (Puckering is evidence of tight tension.

When puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting pull in the lengthwise direction of seam.

(1) Loose tension, resulting in a loose seam X

(2) Loose tension on edge or raised stitching, resulting in loosely exposed bobbin (lower) thread or top thread

(3) Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to seam or

m. Stitches per inch

(1) Stitches per inch less than minimum specified (on all seams except labels) one or two stitches X three stitches X four or more stitches X

(2) On labels one or more stitches less than minimum X

8. SLIDE FASTENERS

a. Not type or size specified X

b. Garment parts stitched too close to metal chain not permitting slider to pass.

c. Top end of fastener tapes not caught. X

d. Broken prongs affecting serviceability X

9. ALIGNMENT OF FRONTS

Not aligned causing a noticeable bulge or twist on fronts when X

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B closed.

10. LENGTH OF CLOSED FRONTS

a. Either front shorter or longer than other front at bottom by more than 3/8”.

b. Either front shorter or longer than other front at neck by more than 3/8”.

c. Slide fastener

(1) chain exposed when closed in front by more than 1/8” X

(2) tape set on too loose or too tight causing excessive bulging on opening affecting appearance

(3) length less than specified by more than 1/2” X

d. Front edges irregular, bulky or not properly forced out affecting appearance

e. Front or bottom edges badly stretched affecting appearance

f. End of waistbands not in horizontal alignment by 1/4” or more when fronts are closed.

g. Tape omitted on fronts of lining X

h. Front edge of basic fabric overlapping zipper X

11. KNIT COLLAR

a. Tight at joining to front or back causing puckers or pleats at neck of jacket affecting appearance.

b. Collar ends overlapping when fastening X

c. Collar off-center by more than 3/8” X

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

d. Finished dimension of collar less than 2” or more than 2 1/2” at center back X

e. Collar irregular in width by 1/4” or more X

12. WAISTBAND

a. Badly twisted affecting appearance X

b. Waistband dimensions less than 3” or not more than 3 1/2” X

13. BODY LINING

Tight, short or twisted causing full or twists on outside of jacket. X

14. SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

a. Improperly joined or set causing shoulder or back to twist

b. Shoulder pad not properly set on shoulder causing shoulder lining to twist or pucker or causing shoulder lining or pad to bulge excessively.

c. Shoulder pads not tacked to shoulder seams X

d. Shoulder pads misplaced, i.e., too far back or forward not serving intended purpose.

15. ARMHOLES

a. Stretched X

b. Crooked seam affecting appearance X

16. SLEEVES

a. Setting and hang

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

(1) Sleeve fullness misplaced X

(2) Sleeve too far forward or back X

(3) Hang of sleeves in opposite directions, i.e., one sleeve too far forward and one sleeve too far back

(4) Sleeves tight in armhole, i.e., causing puckers and twists around armhole

b. Sleeve lining

(1) Twisted, tight or short causing bulge, twist or puckering on outside of sleeves.

(2) Sleeve lining too long causing lining to sag at bottom more than 1/4” from bottom edge of lining.

(3) Sleeve lining seams out of alignment more than 1/2” with sleeve seam at armholes or at bottom of sleeves.

(4) Knit cuffs twisted when attached to sleeve bottoms affecting appearance or serviceability

c. Knit cuffs finished dimension not 3 1/2” (+ 1/4”) X

17. HANGER

a. Omitted or ends not securely stitched X

b. Outside of tolerance by ¼” X

18. CONTRACTOR’S LABEL

a. Missing, incorrect, illegible or printing obscured after stitching

b. Not stitched on four sides in the correct location X

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

19. SIZE TICKET

a. Missing, incorrect or illegible X

b. Placed in the wrong location X

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1. Shipping Protection. The Garments shall be packaged in a manner that shall afford adequate protection against deterioration and damage during shipment to the USAF Academy for immediate use.

5.2 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order the interior and exterior packages shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended Use. The Garment covered by this specification is intended for use as a component of the Dress Uniform worn by cadets of the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2. Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Classification required

c. Quantity required by size

d. Availability of sample

e. Requirements for Bid Sample

f. Requirements for First Article

g. Government furnished basic fabric

h. Any special markings required

i. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein (See 5.1, and 5.2).

6.3 Color Shade Samples. Sample USAFA color shades may be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

USAF Academy Cadet Uniforms Section (10 LRS/LGRCU) Colorado Springs CO 80840 USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

Reviewing Activity:

Cadet Logistics Chief (10LRS/LGRC) USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

FRONT VIEW

JACKET, ATLETIC, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS: The purpose of this form is to solicit beneficial comments which will help achieve procurement of suitable products at reasonable cost and minimum delay, or will otherwise enhance use of the document. USAFA contractors, government activities, or manufacturers/vendors who are prospective suppliers of the product are invited to submit comments to the government. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization to waive any portion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements. Attach any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document. If there are additional papers, attach to form and place both in an envelope addressed to Cadet Uniform Section, 10LRS/LGRCU, 2348 Sijan Dr., Suite 2B1, USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210.

DOCUMENT IDENTIFIER AND TITLE

NAME OF ORGANIATION AND ADDRESS CONTRACT NUMBER

MATERIAL PROCURED UNDER A

Direct Government Contract

Subcontract

1. HAS ANY PART OF THE DOCUMENT CREATED PROBLEMS OR REQUIRED

INTERPRETATION IN PROCUREMENT?

A. Give paragraph number and wording.

B. Recommendations for correcting deficiencies.

2. COMMENTS ON ANY DOCUMENT REQUIREMENT CONSIDERED TO RIGID

3. IS THE DOCUMENT RESTRICTIVE?

4. REMARKS

SUBMITTED BY(Printed or typed name and address - Optional)

TELEPHONE NO.

DATE